Pattern Cutting and Making for Beginners: Skirts | Kathryn Roberts | Skillshare

Pattern Cutting and Making for Beginners: Skirts

Kathryn Roberts, professional pattern cutter

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13 Lessons (1h 16m)
    • 1. Introduction

      2:00
    • 2. Dart Manipulation

      3:42
    • 3. Converting Darts to Gathers and Pleats

      6:19
    • 4. Adding Volume with Knife Pleats

      4:43
    • 5. Adding Volume with Box Pleats

      6:01
    • 6. Adding Volume with Gathers

      5:28
    • 7. Adding Volume with Frills

      3:10
    • 8. Adding Seam Allowance, Notches, Drill Holes and Labels

      8:45
    • 9. Drafting an A-line Skirt

      2:09
    • 10. Drafting a Gathered Skirt with Rotated Darts

      6:50
    • 11. Drafting a Pleated Skirt with Yokes

      12:57
    • 12. Drafting a Skirt with Grown on Godets

      9:07
    • 13. Drafting Waistbands

      4:54
17 students are watching this class

About This Class

So you've drafted your basic skirt block/sloper and now you're wondering how you transform it into a working pattern? Then this is the class for you!

Join me (Kate), a professional pattern cutter, as I walk you through the basics of making skirt patterns. Starting at dart manipulation and ending with examples of a variety of skirts that you can easily make the patterns for. This class really does cover all the basics!

In this class you'll learn:

  • Dart manipulation - slash & spread
  • Dart manipulation - pivot technique
  • How to convert darts to gathers
  • How to convert darts to pleats
  • How to create knife pleats
  • How to create box pleats
  • How to create gathers
  • How to create frills
  • How to add seam allowance and label your pattern correctly
  • How to create waistbands

You'll also learn how to draft these skirts in this class:

  • An A-line skirt
  • A pleated skirt with yokes
  • A skirt with grown on godets
  • A gathered skirt with rotated darts

I use my quarter scale blocks to demonstrate techniques and examples of what can be done with the basic skirt block so please bare in mind that you will need to have your own full scale or quarter scale basic skirt block to follow along and join in. 
If you want to draft your own skirt block then check out my other class: "Pattern Cutting for Beginners: How to draft your own skirt block/sloper"

For this class you'll need:

  • A skirt block (full or quarter scale)
  • A pattern ruler (pattern master, set square, pattern shaper or similar)
  • Pattern/dot & cross paper or similar
  • Pencil and rubber
  • Pattern notcher
  • Pattern drill
  • Tracing wheel
  • Tape or pritt stick
  • Paper scissors

This class is ideal for beginner pattern cutters and sewists who are ready to take their sewing skills to the next level. 

To really challenge yourself take a look at the class project where I set you new designs to try your hand at!

Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi. I'm Kate, professional pattern cutter and teacher. I first discovered pounding cutting when I was at university studying fashion design. And of course, I was hooked from Day one when I left University, I went straight into the industry and became a professional pattern cutter, and that was way back in 2014. Since then, I've been working in the industry. And then a couple of years ago, I decided to try my hand at teaching. I found that it is the ultimate reward being up to share my knowledge. And I really believe that anyone can learn to make pattern, just got to go about it in the right way and find a way that works for you. So this class is all about scats? I'm gonna show you how to transform your block into a couple of different cuts. To do that, I'm going to use my court scale blocks a little bit kinder to the environment and save some paper. So we're gonna start with a basic dark manipulation from there. I'm gonna show you how to convert your darts into pleats and gathers. Then we can go through how to add extra volume with pleats. So that's things like knife pleads and box plates. Then we can delve a little bit deeper into gathers. So I'm gonna show you how to create extra volume with gathers both parallel on tape it. Then we're gonna have a look at how to you slash and spread to create extra fullness to make frills after that will quickly run through how to add seam allowance. Not serious draw. Hold on how to correctly label up your pattern. Remember that all of the de Marie's in this class done on net quarter scale blocks. That means they have no seam allowance on. So after you finished following along with demo, if you want to trial up your new packed in, you're going to have to add seam allowance, nachos, drill holes and annotations. Then I'm gonna show you how to transform your block into a couple of different patterns. I'm gonna show you how to drop in a line, skirts a pleated skirts it's got with some gathers as well. It's rotated dot a skirt with seems an extra flare at the hem, almost like grown on go day. And then lastly, I'm gonna show you how to do a wasteland on then that will be asked for today and hope By the end of this you have a greater understanding of skirts and you'll be able to create any Scott you can dream up. 2. Dart Manipulation: way to go into the really exciting part. We start drafting patterns. Andi Teoh demonstrate. I'm going to use the port scale blocks. They are exactly the same as bigger ones, just a little bit smaller and easier to work with. And that means I'll waste little bit less paper. So let's start with some basic dark manipulation. The two techniques that we're gonna use slash and spreads on the pivot technique needs a front block to demonstrate for you or were doing when we're manipulating dots is moving, are shaping from one area to another. So if we start flashing spreads, I can show you much more literal. And then we'll move on to pivot. So let's start by tracing all the way around our block. So there's our front look. No, I'm gonna mark on my new dark position. So that safe instance I want to move this dart into a diagonal line across my hip. I'm going to draw a line on there where I want that to be, and then all I'm gonna dio slash and spread. It is cut along that my new dark position happened to my apex and then cut along one side of my old dot I didn t You don't want to call all the way through so it comes loose You want to cause you can just sort of rotated around the point, sir, Now that we've caught, we can actually rotate it. So we're gonna do is rotate our old dark closed to the airlines match And there we have our new dot opening up this point we can stick it down on. There we are. We've moved out our around, so that's a slashing spread breath. It is very literal. You literally cut it and open up. Next, I'll show you the pivot method. It's exactly the same, except we aren't going to physically cut into it. We're going to use our block and pivot around it. So I really do is we're gonna mark on our new dark position physically onto our block, You doing pencils that I can rub it out later on. So again we're rotating. This starts done in this line, so we know from our slashing spread method that this area moves when we rotate it through. Let's trace around the area that isn't going to move fast, and its start in the middle of our dart from our apex, and they were gonna trace all the way up until we meet our new dot line and then gonna put your panel pencil into the apex of your dart on, literally rotated, clothed, and then you can trace around the rest of your block all the way up until your dart line. Then if we remove this, we can see we've got a gap in our line. Now we can actually draw in the dot So going from the apex of our old dot to the new opening, draw that in, and then the same thing on this side. There we are there. We got exactly the same result, but we haven't had to physically cut into anything. This is our slash and spread, and then this is our favorite technique. You know, we get the same result, but just in a different way. The nice thing about slash and spread is if you're adding any extra volume, I would normally fashion spread in there as well 3. Converting Darts to Gathers and Pleats: So you got your block, but you got dots. But how do we convert those darts into something like pleats for gathers? Well, first, let's take a look and see how darts rework savoured Put this on the back of a mannequin. You can see we've taken shaping out in the dots and we've taken some of the side seen as well, if we hadn't taken that shaping would be a similar measurement to hit when you were just it up this and get cool around the waist. So you're putting in those darks. We've enabled ourselves close up extra volume there and create a shape here that sits comfortably over the bum. And it's the same with the 2nd 1 that we call this suppression. So it's created suppression here, which in turn has created a three D shape here which comfortably hopes the body darts is one way of creating suppression. Another way is gathers. So you can see here I've drawn out my block and I've put a gathering stitch in. You can't just gather the dark. You have to gather either side of the dyas Well, so again, you can see if I didn't have any expression. He would sit flat and gave over the waste because I've got my gathering stitch here being able to make this line smaller than it was before. And then if I put that over the body, it fits better because I've suppressed the measurement off that line on I've created three D shape here. Same thing. Works with cleats. Undo my gather stitch and get this flat again waken pin this on to the back and then we compete this area closed So again you can see I've made this line smaller. I've added suppression on this area now forms three d shape and you can see our pleats are essentially just darts without a stitch in complete to nothing over the hip But what we could do if we wanted to have actual volume We didn't want this to be a close fitting Skirts could slash in extra volume. I make a deeper Pete like this on the same thing goes for gathers. We can also slash an extra volume So that's more volume through the hem and gather this all up so that we get full this all the way through. Let's have a look. And how we do that on the pattern to convert our darts to gathers. It's very simple. It's almost exactly as you can see here on the fabric version. I just put my gathering stitch in a little bit to either side of my dance. So if I read, trace out my block, say, I want my gathering to go from here to here. But what I would need to do is measure finished area. That's the area apart from the darts. So that's 3.5 centimeters total that my gathering would finish to fit the skirt nicely. So what I'm gonna do, it's close my darts and make nice waistline running through that. Remember, we're going from this notch here this notch here, and it's 3.5. Then we can rub out our dots and then or in ours, say, gather 3.5 centimeters and that would be our gallant pattern. As I said, this would now fit the body closely. Smart hip measurement has remained the same, and we've got the same amount of suppression. Were just representing it in a different way. If we wanted toe have a looser skirts, then all you do is cut straight up on add extra volume. So we get extra in Arnhem on extra and I waste, but we would still keep our total waste management the same. So in about how much money we get in there, still gather it to three point by equally. If you didn't like the amount of gathers so how condensed they were in this area, you could space it out a little bit more or have it over the whole waste as long visual final waste management is always the same as the original. Now, let's have a look at some pleats. So again, I'm gonna trace out my block. So this would be a my two dots all we're gonna do for athletes. We're gonna draw an arrow, going towards my sense back or away, depending with personal preferences. And right, Pete way still wanna Pete along these lines? Because we're coming to zero. But if you were going toe pleat bigger plates with extra volume, then you could change the angle of your plates. So we're gonna rob these out because we no longer need these lines. You want to keep just a couple of centimetres at the top, so that you've got a guideline for the angle of your pleats when you're folding stew, you under lays. So these would be our Pete's on. Remember when we had seen ignorance? We still need our under laid here so things areas are still really important. He's if they aren't correct when your pleats are gonna pull well, they're not gonna Pete in the right direction When we get depleting thes the areas that really control the direction off your Pete, That would be our pleats pattern again, Just like with the Scots, these ones come to nothing over the hips that this is a close fitting scout. But if you want to have a looses got or you would need to do is cut down the middle of your pleat will weight the hem and slash in some volume. 4. Adding Volume with Knife Pleats: So now that we understand how to convert a dart into a flat plate that goes to nothing over the hip, let's have a look at how we can great, complete with extra fullness first, before we decide what kind of Pete we want way have knife pleats, which are a series of pleats in the same direction off the same size. They look something like this when they're flat and then we have an inverted box, please, which are two knife pleats going towards each other and meeting in the middle. Then we have a box pleat, which are two knife pleats going opposite directions and having the underlay meeting in the middle. We call this an inverted box pleat because it really is just the opposite of a box Pleats. You can see if I turn over, they are the same. So let's take a quick look and how we would create a knife plate. It's imagine that we're gonna put seen on the hip line that we repeat, too. So let's start by tracing out upper portion of our block. This will stay the same. Now we can trace out the bottom section about block the next thing we need to do is Mark on our pleat position. So I'm gonna dio replete cool space at 2.5 centimeters away from each other. So I'm gonna offset a line from my center front at 2.5 and then do another one from there, another one from there, then all you do is use our slash and spread method to literally slash in there and open up some extra volume just to really get lost. I'm gonna mark on here. That's my center front. And that's my side seam. And I'm just gonna pop some action notches on here. It's but I know where all of my conceits matchup 1st 1 did slash up here. So now we have the question of how much toe add in. Well, I knew that my visible area is 2.5 centimeters. So if I want to see a repeat the whole way to match the pleats coming on the other side, I would need to add in twice the amount waken See that for my little model here. These areas are old two centimeters. I can see that my underlay of my pleat goes all the way along more visible area and then folds and back again. So it's double the amount of my visible area. So, like I said, this is 2.5. So I'm gonna add in five cents meters that it complete there and back again. This space is five centimeters. Double this space. Then I'm just gonna extend what was my hip line. Because I know that this is a straight line on the same thing for my headline. No, I know. But if I were to stick this back onto here, I would have one plate here. So let's do exactly not. And I can use my headline on my hip line as a guide aware Stick it so that I know that it straight. So this is our first plate. We can double check without it the right amount of volume by folding. And there we can see our underlay goes all the way there and then folds back again to complete the last thing we're gonna do here. It's Adan, our direction of our plates that we know which way to fold it on. We're gonna right, Pete, just about this No confusion. That would be a knife plate. And then all you would do for these extra two pleats is repeat this process again 5. Adding Volume with Box Pleats: So let's have a go at creating an inverted box plate, which is this one here. Lets used the same yoke and position as we did last time. We've already traced that out. Let's just trace out the lower section off our block. Let's take our middle position of our middle pleat and mark that on here as well. And this will be the position. Where are pleats are going to match so we can see from a little model that were made last time? That inverted box pleads when they're closed, like just one line to that this line here and then when we open it up, we can see we've got to knife pleats. So before when we added twice the amount of are visible, pleads. Now we have four section because I've got two plates. So again it let's do each Pete five centimeters in total, so 2.5 on the heart. So if we have four sections off 2.5, that means we need to add in 10 centimeters. So again it's just simply slashing spread now that I've stuck on lots of extra paper, it's mark in our 10 centimeters and extend our top edge on bottom edge. It will also make Mark in the middle. That's where our lines will meet. Drawer in where our next paint will begin by matching up our 10 centimeter mark, and then we can stick this down and again. We use our hem line on our hip line as a guide to know that we are sticking these nice and straight. This would be our underlay of athlete. We read. Pete is closed. We fold this line to our five centimeter notch, will mark that we made and then do exactly the same on this one. And if we get our yoke, we can see that thought when it's closed. Matches perfectly when we open it. We've got our Pete's underlay in there. Lawson needs do is just make really visible notch where those Pete's go, too. And then we can put some errors in here to say where it needs to pleat, too. So that would be our inverted box pleat. Next, let's try a box pleat. So again we're going to keep that same York and just trace out the lower section off our block again. Let's use the same notches on let's position middle of our box pleats by the middle notch. So the two edges of our box pleats are gonna be by these two notches here, Just a little reminder what a box play it looks like when it's closed, has a box on the outside and then you can see the middle of the pleats Then so these two edges are gonna be by these two notions here. I know that they are spaced at 2.5. The middle one is another 2.5, and then the next edge one is also t 10.5. Let's draw some lines down from here. We one please. This will be another. So again we have the question of how much toe Adan. Well, we know that are underneath plates need to match in the middle or meet in the middle. So we need to add in like we did with the knife pleats enough to go to the middle and back again. Here. We know that this space is 2.5. So if we add 2.5 to go there on a 2.5 to go back, we need to add in five centimeters, so it starts by slashing up fast Pete, Then we can add in five centimeters and again we're gonna extend our hip line across on our headline. No way! Can use those as a guide for where to stick this. That would be our first pleat. Now let's do our 2nd 1 again. We're gonna extend our hem line and our hip line We're gonna add in five centimeters. That would be a pleat slashed in. Let's have a look at folding them. Double track that we got it the right way Waken See here how pleat under lays match in the middle and create a box shape on the outside. Last thing we're gonna do is just Adan. It's ours. It's annotations, but we know where they need to grow And that would be a box Pete's 6. Adding Volume with Gathers: so he's seen how to convert darts to gathers. But what if we went out? Do gathers with extra volume? Well, it's really simple. We just use slash and spread to slash in extra volume, and they gather it all up. So let's see an example of that. Let's say, for example, I want to keep this as a yoke. And then I want to gather a bit onto this hand here. Well, I would do is trace out my yoke on my block on, then trace out my lower section as well. No, because this section is square. What? We could do his drawer in extra volume on advert in that way, but to show you in a more literal way, I'm gonna cut and slash it open. So let's first decide where we want the volume. We could open it and then gather it all the way. So it's an even gather or we could just gather it into a certain portions. We have some flat gathered and then some flat. Let's just slash in so that we can do full gather over the scene. So I'm just gonna draw a line straight in the middle and then cut this way. Then we're gonna dio slash straight up that and simply add in some extra fullness to guide me for where I need to stick on in my piece. I'm just gonna extend my headline on my hip line. I'm gonna add in six centimeters of extra volume. So there we have a piece that has excess volume on will just gather straight up onto that yoke. And then the last thing we need to do his mock and annotations say that God is, And then we also need to say how much to gather it to. So here I'm getting 11.3. We gather Teoh 11.3 cm and that would be our gathered skirt. Another way. The week and add volume through gathering is to gather to nothing. So let's say, for example, on this joke, we wanted to add a scene here, and we wanted to have some gathers in this scene. But no gathers at sightseeing we do is mark on our C in position, and then you slash and spread to slash in sinfulness. I'm gonna call this away. I'm gonna mark on here. This is my sightseeing. Then I'm gonna mark on where I want to put it in life illness. So I'm gonna slash into here once, twice, three on four times. So remember that were slashing fullness into this line, but none into this line. So let's do our slashing part. We want to slash the peace, but not through it. We want to leave a little hinge at the end and just to make life of over easy to understand . Let's take away any paper that we don't need. Then we can literally open up our peace. I put out extra volume in so you can see with added extra awfulness onto this edge and none on this edge. This measurement is staying the same. So let's stick back down. So this is still Ahem, this is our weeks line. This is the edge we gather on. This is the edge of our side. Seam stays exactly the same judgment now to cut out What I'm gonna do is Mark in my new line. We don't want any coils. We still want this to be a nice, smooth curve. There, you can see we need to flash and spread. And then this would all gather into here The last thing that we need to do is to write on here our final gather measurement. And I know that my final length here is 7.5. So I can right here. Yes, gather to 7.5 cm. 7. Adding Volume with Frills: final way that I'm gonna show you how to add fullness is to slash and spread to create a frill or extra volume. So this is without gathers and pleats just flat seem so let's start by tracing out our front look. So let's say, for example, we want to have a seem around about here on this piece. We want to be like a little kid clicks and extra flair or throw. First you would need to do is mark on our scene position. Then we can use slash and spread kind of treated with the gathers to slash own on opening up. But this edge stays flat. Just we didn't get confused I'm gonna mock on my center front on my side, seam. I'm just gonna top away access from my head Then then, just like we did with the Gathers, we need to mark on where we're going to slash Swan going to slasher in at four points again . So I'm gonna mark on four lines roughly evenly spaced, and then I'm going to slash in on open them up. So again, I'm slashing to my edge of the paper, but not through it, so that I have a little hinge point. So if I openly is without, we can see what begins to happen when we slash through an open on volume. So this would be our hem, which now becomes much fuller. But I seem is still the same amount of fullness so that stick these down, have to get it evenly. We're gonna measure each section as we stick it. So you sent to front first. Then I'm gonna put in one centimeter. Fullness, sir, I use that as a hinge and match it up with the mark that I just made gonna add another centimeter here on another centimeter here. So we're adding the same amount all the way through. That would be our new frill again. All needs to you. It's just herb off this edge. So we don't want any horrible pointy corners. We just want to true it, sir. It looks nice and smooth. And then you just need to add some semen owns and cut it out so you can see it would go on the edge of their. This line is the same as this line, so we don't need any gather annotations or anything, but we have this little furrow or fullness on the hem 8. Adding Seam Allowance, Notches, Drill Holes and Labels: to demonstrate how to add Simmons. I'm going to use my full scale block. So here's one that I've traced from my cardboard block, which is net no seem loans Toe ad. See Malone's Rigoni's Arpad a master, or if you're using sets great, you can use that as well. We can use these lines here, which apple space at no 0.5 England. So if you want to add a centimeter similar lines, you can use the second line in here if you want to add 1.5 reused headline in. It's really fairly simple or We're Gonna Do is line up our original stitch line without guidelines on the pattern master and then the flat edge of the patent master offset parallel to the original line. So here I'm lining up my original line or my stitch line, my one centimeter guideline. And then when I draw down on the flat edge of the pan Master, my new line is exactly a centimeter away from my original line, so I'm just going to repeat that around or the flat edges on my block way. Come to the hip and it's curved toe. Add seam allowance onto a curved line. All we need to do is follow the same process as we do with a straight line. But we're gonna use our pen as a pivot point to pivot around the line. So I'm going to start by matching up my original line with my one centimeter guideline. I'm gonna draw along my flat edge control. My guideline no longer matches with my original line. Then I'm gonna use my pen or pencil as a pivot point to rotate my powder master until my line matches, then going to draw a little bit until it doesn't match anymore. And then I'm just gonna repeat this process over and over until I get to the end of my line on this top head. I'm also going to add centimeter got couple of darts at the moment. They're open dance. We want them to be closed that they've got some fabric behind them. That when we stitch them, they're nice and clean on the inside. Well, we're gonna do is manually close. And we can't do it flat like this because we got this big boulder paper, which is really hard to work with. So normally what I try and use is the corner of a table. So we've got two solid edge is two fold along. But just to demonstrate, we're gonna use this box so we can easily see Ideally, you just want a nice sharp corner to go into the apex of the dark on a nice, crisp edge on the tables you can have a nice, crisp foreland. We're going to start by matching up the apex Bardot with the corner off the table using the table edge as a guide to get a nice, crisp, folded edge we're gonna do is fold the first leg of the dart over to the second, close it up and remember that were affording 20 at the apex so we can see that this start is now closed as if it was sewn shut. At this point, let's just secure the dark place so it doesn't move around too much for us, so I'm gonna pin it, and now we can begin to see the run of our waistline. So let's close the second data. So again I'm gonna put the apex of my dart onto the corner of my table and then I'm gonna line up the first leg of my dot with the edge of the table. I'm gonna fold that across to the second leg of the dot. Once out of older, closed again. Just need to secure it. Close to that. Things don't move around so you can see down here. It's all of the excess. And up here is nice and flat so we can see our waistline isn't really a lovely curve. We've got a couple of corners there. Where are dark meat? That's all we're gonna do is just redraw That has a nice curve. We call this true ing the line, so over referring to when we say tree line, smoothing it out to get rid of any quarter has been to make it a nice, smooth run. So you can see what I've done here is I've added on a few mills onto each docked to make it a nice move cub. Next, let's go about tracing room and we can trace through so that we can find the UN delays of our dots. So we're just gonna trace right over the new waistline. Then if we open up our darts, you can see we've got some little perforated marks that create a line for the inside of our dots and thes lines exactly mirror the waistline. So now just grab a pattern master and draw over these perforated dots. Now when we serve it, those top of the darts going to match perfectly into our waistlines, there's no pulling brilliant. It's now we've closed our dots. Let's add on IRC Blank's first thing we need to do is extend our dar legs. They go past the stitch line just like we did with the rest of the block we're gonna add Seem a centimeter seem alikes. So it's much up our original line with our guideline and just simply draw along. Remember that I waste is now curved, so you can't just draw a straight line. You've got to use your pen or pencil as a pivot point. So next just label a couple of things up. Always wanna mark on our sent back or centre front. This is our headline. This is our hip line and this is our waistline also need to mark on our grain line in this case. Oh, grain is parallel to buy sent back so we can just put an arrow on the centre back. But if you prefer to have a separate actual green line, all you need to do is offset a line away from your center back. So this new line is exactly parallel to my center back. You always want to put an hour on your grain line on label it grain. I also need a little bit more information about what this actually is. It's the first thing we need to write is our pattern name. This is Oscar block. Next is our peace name. This is my back. We also need our country information, and this piece would be cut one pair itself. I also want to pop the date down, and that's just so you don't get mixed up between any multiple copies of the pattern. We do also put the size down, but because this is drafted for my specific measurements rather than the standard size, I'm not going to put a sign on it. Last thing we need to do is to cut it out, put some notches and drill holes on it. A notch is really just an indication on the fabric where you need to snip to guide yourself any sewing first place Bergen A knocked is our darts or you needs Teoh Place Will not will not head over where you need to watch on punch a little bit of paper out. I'm gonna not Sure you can use a little scissors to snip out like a triangular shape. Remember that when you're not darts, you need to notch along the angle of the dart leg. And then we also wanted not any seem announces that when we're stitching, we have a real clear indication of warehouse stitch I needs to be. It's all you need to do is extend your stitch line through your seam allowance and then I'm also hearing to notch my hip line because that will match with front of the block on that will help me as a guideline when I'm stitching. The last thing that we need to not is our zip notch. So I'm going to do you mind 20 centimeters long. I'm drawing this at a 90 degree angle. Teoh my center back line. Any nachos that are there to help you with matching pieces normally are at a 90 degree angle to your stitch line. So you things like hip not choose or zip notches normally are a 90 degree angle, and then dart notches are along the angle off the line on the same thing with plates. So now that we've marked it, all of our nachos, let's do the not train. Now we can market in our drill holes, so we're going to drill the apex of our dance. So you want to put the point of your pattern drill over the apex of your dart, pushed down and twist, and then this punches a little hole of paper out of the apex that you can easily market for sewing way have our centre backs cap peace with seem, announces, all labeled up, notched on drills, ready to cut out on 12. Remember that this is the process you need to follow after every single pint piece is made . So all of the demonstrations that I'm going to do in this class are all made of my net caught scale blocks. So once you've repeated steps or followed along with me, you still need to then go out some semen islands out on your grain line. Your annotations who LeBeau's were not choose. All of that needs to be done as well. Before you start buying anything up 9. Drafting an A-line Skirt: fantastic. So now that we unsigned how to minutely the dots in theory, let's have a look at creating a line scut. It's got with front, dropped out a line skirt or we're gonna do is rotate our front ducked into Arnhem. So let's start by going on our new dark position we're going to draw a line straight down her love sent front will weight the hem And then let's start by tracing around the area that we know isn't going to move around for a new dot and then just like it did before. We are going to power a pen in the dot apex and rotate that clothes. You can also do this using flattened spread. This'll way kind of just cuts our stage so you can see our old opposition, and then this would be our new docked if we were doing it in. But we're gonna leave as volume in the hem. So let's just close that up without power, Master. Next we could do the back. So on the back, try and keep our volume balanced. We're gonna do is close one dart that keep this one. So again we're gonna mark on our new dot So it's crazy out dot So again it will stop by drawing around. All right, we know isn't going to me wear around to a new doctor position and then go back to our dot Put our pen or pencil in the apex and rotate that closed. We could draw around a with the rest of it so that we can see we've closed that dark and this one is still open. Then we're gonna dear, close this up because we don't want that to be a new dark. We want that to be volume in this. Get this is our front. And then this is our back of our airlines. Cut. You can move this dart around now. If you wanted to be a bit more essentially, you could do that. 10. Drafting a Gathered Skirt with Rotated Darts: I'll show you how to retake the dog slash in some extra gallons. Let's start with front. It's gonna be a bit easier. There's anyone dots. So this design we're gonna need starts that part out Arnhem, we're gonna agree on drawing on and then we're gonna dio I don't on the other ones area we know isn't going to move on now we can pivot. It's old dot into the news opposition. Now, this era we want to add some volume into so we're gonna do is reconnect offset this line further over. Then we could gather it all up and then I'll end up in there, extend this line and then it's bad in five. Some to me, too Over radio is we're gonna put this on here and retrace this line. I can do this because I've got all this extra paper. But if you don't have any extra paper or you do literally cut into this bit here behind, fortunately I have some extra. So here I'm just gonna read on my nine away to a new doctor position. Then you re join this up this line No need. So then this. But here goes up this area. Yeah, Or gobbles up giant. Stop it. Get all this. After fullness down here creates my little detail. Let me show you on the back. It gets a little complicated because we have two dots so fast or we're gonna do like we did on the front, and we're gonna overtake our darts into the side seam. So we need a line. Are now in our hands That's perpendicular to our back, that one that we're going to stop by rotating this one, and then we're gonna slash and spread to join them together. So festival it's trace around the area we know isn't going to move. Starting in our text away around, We're gonna put a pen in the impacts on rotate take away, and then we put you dog nowadays during this docked into here. So we're gonna do is draw a new line from Apex Apex. Men were going to cut along one side of our old dot Wait here. Now we can use our slashing spread with it. Weyrich. Nate, just rotate this shut. See, we've got one giant Norma stamps just really shop out this access. So that way No, this is our doctor. So care we can just add in our extra for names. This is the big games gathered. So front way Just real actual line to show you physically slash a little bit of extra volume in left for you. I say if we are going to put in more money than you do drawn your line where you want to slash brought him in to cut away up tape your extra 40 men and then you're gonna draw Extend the line hard already. I'm gonna act in five centimeters here as well. Make little Mach five. Well, nine way to stick our side bit back on. We're getting exactly the same outcome. All we done on the back is actually slashed and opened its fashion spread on the front. We just actually displace it. Yeah, so just be really can't this'll section to this section. It just comes in like this and then it touches on and it's the same thing here. This whole section got it. This section here and then you stitch in your side scenes and hey, presto, you got called out the detail on your stats 11. Drafting a Pleated Skirt with Yokes: this car is gonna have a yoke at the front and the back, and then it's gonna have parallel knife, please, below it. So first thing we're gonna do, you start with your front. We're gonna trace out whole block. This'd be out front, and now we can decide where we want to get to go. I'm gonna make my urine four cmd I'm gonna draw that in. I'm gonna offset it from my weeks line so that I'm still keeping that natural curve way. You see here, this is all gonna be flat. And then this is gonna be please, we're gonna market. My plate is now just so I can keep my notches up there. So my Scott is 11 centimeters wide, So 11 divided by three is 3.7. So I'm gonna dio a feat every 3.7 because I want three things. So I'm gonna square up from my head because I want them to be part out. Thanks is my position now we can cut your away e dearly. We don't really want this dying here. We should be able to close that. So we're gonna do is we're gonna extend a dot line all the way, it seems. And then we're simply eight and a slash and plays it. It's cut way cut. Why a fax? So if we were to break tape from the heights Sea, regrouping up had a lot into the hem. So instead what we're gonna dio all the way through. And then we're gonna close using our hem out pivot point. So rotate that under way Match that we are gonna lose a little bit of that hit. That's okay. Don way need Teoh. Then we can add a bit more through here. So again we're lining up Nothing at hand that in closing that out, mark this as now we can do our athletes. So the first thing we're gonna do here, it's just Mark. I was indifferent on outside, so we're gonna have a plea. Epicenter front one on the scene one here. They're also gonna have one on the side. You can see that we're gonna build a shaping here. So what? I'm gonna dio it's extend this line down here following that natural shape on the hit, just extending it down. We are going to gain a little bit extra yet, but we're gonna need thanks. In order for it to go over the hip and then state nights just gonna extend that for fasting range. Dio is caught. These two seems you have here also gonna have one here. That is because stick in a bit of extra paper volume. I'm gonna make my pleats 1.5 on the half, so I'm gonna have to double that Teoh. I have enough space to fold and then fall back again. So that's gonna be three centimeters extra volume that I need to add in. And I can use my hem as a guideline Where to stick my peace Because I know that this is parallel. So just to explain again about the UN today our fast fold goes on this edge that we drew in . And when we repeat it, repeat it across to this boat here. It needs toe, have enough length to fold there and back again. That's why we have three centimeters. Is 1.5 year, 1.5 year. Obviously again, if this was full scale, you want to be a lot bigger than that. The next Let's put a bit of volume in here. So again I'm gonna do this 13 centimeters wide. We're going to use my head as a guideline. Where? Through this. Here. Then we have this section as well. This way. Wanna have a scene here? But we wanna have it hidden Heats. So, in theory, we have a seem along this edge here. This fold So we're gonna add Here is 1.5. Then the next week they were missing. He's asked into front. We're gonna stick on a bit of extra running here as well. And then again, this is gonna be on the fold so we don't want to add on a full three centimeters, then went end up with six centimeter plete wei. Want to add on 1.5? I know that my center front is more or less square from that stands out across. So we've got one, please. Here. And there was another Pete here at this rate here holds under. So that scene underneath that. So wait, hold all of these up to see way would have Are the peat coming across on the center first here as well. This is so I was indifferent. See, we got all this access here we're gonna dio together Correct shape is caught it. If you take this away, you can see we've got the correct shape of the underlying way Trim about manages here to make it really clear what we need We don't this'll And that is the front. Let's not forget our way made as well. Now we can look back so say must be done before we're gonna trace around the whole block and then we're gonna mock on Always fund. So we said that the front one was full cm deep. We're gonna do exactly the same on the back. Then let's McConnell pleat positions. So again we want Teoh two on the back and then we're gonna have one on our side. Seem that we started creating from the front already. We're not gonna happen on the back because we're gonna have a zip in here on this. It's gonna go to the hip line. We're not going todo that. The best thing really Dio is measured across to see how wide back it. So I'm getting it 12.3 so by that by three. To get to evenly spaced lines, three even see sections 4.1 so good on to him and I could make a little marks here. 4.11 double track that for one Lovely. Then I'm gonna square up from my head Pulled away to me Your line Great Now we caught all year and cleans it up way Cut these encloses like we did on front We're gonna dio treat rotate back place on exactly the same men were it not No end up being all your stick down label this sense back just three date get wasn't So now we can stop sticking in our extra volume again I'm gonna make my pleats 1.5 on the underlay for that three centimeters I need to add in and then we're gonna extend hem line. No, that that's my straight line way section here matching from my hand or land. Then we can try the next site and we're gonna add in three centimeters. Okay? Say way have a Pete going this direction on a plate, going this direction and then remember, But on the side scene have this extra little PTO. So just like we did on the front, we're gonna straight in this final wait where I had straight down. No, I don't know that well, but extra volume here, just like we did on the front. We're gonna 1.5 was seem, is gonna sit in the middle of the plate, See when the front case here. Like so for energy here on this outside day waken See, here we come to a bit of a porno, which obviously is not ideal. So we're gonna dio raise that upside it from that look. Terrible. Chop that straight. Now we're gonna do the same thing here. You did front late on that safely stopped by folding. It's penny shut. Just easily work. Men are also gonna pin peat here. Then we chop all of this way to give us a nice and delays. You can see all of our pleats here. We're not gonna have any plea on the sense back. I will just be a normal sense vaccine. And then we've got a front gate here, back here, here. Last thing you do is just double check the run of your yoke. Make sure you got a nice brother through that. It is nice and smooth. Last little day is well just by experimentation here cut. Old way. Know that that is a pleat, not a scene. You haven't got a long enough, Peter fabric, and you can make this scene to fit in a bit easier again. This scene here, which is being the underlay of your plates. 12. Drafting a Skirt with Grown on Godets: So let's try and do a skirt with some scenes and some grown on go days will get an extra kick of volume on the head first things faster into mark on our scenes. So I'm going to turn all of my dots into seems on the front. I'm gonna add one more, but I've got to on the back and two on the front and then also in my centre front is gonna turn into her. Seems we're gonna have a good day onto there and then my sent back as well. So let's start with front. I'm gonna do my seems parallel to my center front, which means I can use my hip line to square off. Let's turn our docked into a scene. I was going to create another same that Now we're going to start tracing off pieces. Say we're gonna trace one piece here to peace here. Three piece here and we're gonna leave enough space between them. So here I'm gonna add on a greeting. So that's not tracing from our new scene position all the way around. Number two, not try my hip, my boss, and then we can join these together. This is our center front. Next we can do our middle piece. So again I'm gonna even not space there for a good day on enough space there for a good day . So starting from my scene position, I'm gonna traceable there around the apex of adopt and then doctor Ahem. From seem to seem I join up. Yes, and this is my middle piece. Next, we could do the final piece. So again Grady's gonna go there. Grady's gonna go that on a good day, it's gonna go there. So you're starting at Apex. We can trace all the way around up to a scene mark on our hip and then add in your esteem line bay. This is our sightseeing. To make things a little bit easier to understand, that's put a one here on a one here because these two seems go together on a to here To here is these two scenes get together. Next. Let's create panels for the back. It's on the back. We're gonna move this docked into a scene on this one into Seamus. Well, so let's square again. It's gonna be parallel to my center backs weaken square off of our hip line and then we can start to trace out. So the same thing here, we're gonna put a good day here. So let's leave enough space that way. Started Apex Trace Pull the way around to him, Mark on outside Seemed much that and then move it away door in that scene and we could do on middle bit. So group a space that go to space there started apex to the waist and then the other side and then holding it very still, come down to the hem on draw in that hand bit there then we could do a send back piece So enough space for a great day in that space for a good day, enough space for a good day and thats out back. So I sent back side scene and that's cool. This 3 to 3, 4 to 4. So this is what our Scott would look like if we were just doing scenes. The next step is to add on extra fullness teach seen. So they start with the front passing fast. I want my fullness to start from about 10 centimeters above the hen. This is totally personal preference, but where you want to do it. Certain measure. I make mock at 10 cm. Next, I'm gonna add on three centimeters extra volume to each side of my piece, so th seem essentially so. If I were to extend this line straight out and make a market three centimeters, this line would now be longer than 10 centimeters. So you can see here. I'm getting an extra 0.5, but in full scale, you propagate an extra couple of centimetres, but not ideo. So what we're gonna do because we're only gonna draw up to 10 centimeters, You can see I've got a little bit of a gap here. That's perfect. That's what we want. Now what we could draw in our new headline just going to pay slightly curved so you can see this area. Here is our new go day that we've added on. So you can now go and draw each section onto each one and repeat this process. So let's extend this out three centimeters, make a mock at 10 centimeters here and then join this lineup. But stopping at 10 centimeters open. You can curb this in. You can see now I've got two good it to go days on each side. Next thing is we've got a little bit of a corner here, which we don't want, so let's just smear it that off a little bit on the same thing on this side. Make this. It's me there so that it's nicer and that would be I was sent to front piece. Now we just need to copy on each year's onto every single piece that we get the same fullness on each scene. What we can do is traced through, cut out and then trace onto each piece. So I'm going to trace that causes in my car lines. I'm gonna get hot Foster, join these lines up. That would be the shape of my great day. Now I can call this out, trace it once every other paints so that I can line up my scene with my scene because I can see that through, and then ricin a trace around this so you can see when you go to shake it about and do exactly the same thing Here, line it up nicely trace way around. They're my gradations. This is kind of a cheetah's way of doing it, but it is nice and quick. That would be the front done no longer need these lines and then remember to just notch each line way back. So exactly the same thing on the back. We can still use this piece. We're just gonna pop it on and line up and then trace around it, okay? And then that's how back So again we're gonna notch and then we no longer need thes lines that essentially is your skirt with added fullness through the home. And then all you gotta do is that something that and then you can 12 up. 13. Drafting Waistbands: Wait. Let's talk about weight funds. So they're Tito's wastelands. We can do. We need to do a waistband above the waist, which is normally a straight strip. If it's left five centimeters, all we can do a shaped waistband below the waist. Here, let's start with the straight waistbands. So we're gonna dio is very simply going to draw a straight strip. However, why do you want to pay? And then you're gonna notch or your sections I stopped at the centre front. My measurement here is 6.8 and then here 2.1 here and the Sooners are aligned. Start to curve. We need to use a tape measure up on the edge like this so that we can easily curve it around any point. So this one here is 3.1. It's all were simply gonna dio is not on our wasteland. So 6.8 and then 2.1 and then I'm gonna make a slightly larger not here because this is our side scene. I'm gonna right side seam. Now we can start marking on the back. So 3.1 and then 1.5 and then 3.5 on here. You square up because this is gonna be my sense back. I'm gonna make my respond something date. This is my center front, and this is my sent back. Obviously, if we gotta zip in the centre back, that you would put your front on the fold. If you're gonna have a friend opening, you put you back on the boat. That's a straight weeks plant. If we want Teoh occurred, respond. It's a little bit harder. So we're gonna start with front on. We're gonna trace around the whole thing now we want a waistband below the waist. So let's draw in our physical line of way. We want it to be to keep it nice and even I'm gonna offset from my waist line. I'm gonna do you mind 1.5 deep sea. This would be much deeper if it was full scale. So you can see there's my respond, but I don't really want to have the seam in my recent It's simply chopped thistle and then we're gonna do is literally each hop into that doubt and then stick them together. So kind of like when we close the dark when we rotate it. We just literally wanted match up. Those guidelines includes it. That our center front. So right now we could do that. Sorry. Exactly the same thing as we just did on the front. We are going to trace. And now we're gonna make always find on the back. So we did it 1.5 deep on the front. So we'll do the same thing here. And this one's a bit more severe. So we have bigger dots here, So we're gonna chop that off just like we did on the front. And we're gonna get rid the's seems, and I always find here on that. This one here, I'm gonna stick it down literally. Joining thes seems together. And then the same thing that just joining there seems together sent back way, have our waist bands