Painting Loose Watercolor Leaves | Petals by Priya Watercolor | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

10 Lessons (1h 14m)
    • 1. Introduction & Welcome

    • 2. Supplies

    • 3. Color Mixing

    • 4. Basic Leaf Strokes

    • 5. Double Stroke Leaves

    • 6. Two-Tone Leaves

    • 7. Layered Leaves

    • 8. Adding Depth & Highlights to Leaves

    • 9. Class Project: Leafy Wreath

    • 10. Final Thoughts

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About This Class

Welcome to my new Skillshare class: Painting Loose Watercolor Leaves! Inside this class, you will learn my process for painting beautiful loose leaves using several different methods. 

The skills you will learn include:

  • What supplies you will need to paint beautiful leaves in watercolor
  • Color-mixing tips for creating earthy and moody leaf tones
  • How to create basic leaf shapes using varying pressure
  • How to paint thicker, fuller leaves with two brush strokes instead of one
  • How to create two-toned leaves
  • How to create layered leaf stems
  • And how to add depth, dimension, and highlights to your leaves

We will finish the class by creating a beautiful leafy wreath using your favorite techniques from the class! Thanks again for joining me.... Let’s get started!

Meet Your Teacher

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Petals by Priya Watercolor

Watercolor Artist & Pattern Designer


Hi, I'm Priya! I'm a watercolor artist and surface pattern designer based in Honolulu, Hawaii. I'm also the creative owner behind Petals by Priya Watercolor Designs, LLC. I love painting loose floral compositions and creating beautiful digital patterns to use on products.

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2. Supplies: The nice thing about painting basic leaves, if you don't need a ton of fancy supplies, Here's what you will need for this class. The first thing you'll of course need is watercolor paint. So for our color mixing lesson, I'm going to be using hookers green as my base for all of them mixtures. I love hookers green, It's a great neutral green that mixes well with other colors. I'll also be using this dark brown for my Woodlands art philosophy palette. If you don't have, this palette is completely fine. I'll show you what the brown looks like. It's just a nice dark brown. I'll also be using indigo blue. Payne's gray and love mixing Payne's gray into my colors. Indian red will help us create a nice kind of muddy, earthy green for the leaves. And then finally, I'll be using this color also for my women's palette. It's called Sand Ridge is just kind of a nice beige, light, light brown. You will also need a round watercolor brush. This is the one that I'll be using specifically for this class. It is my all-time favorite brush size six round brush. Brushes in their black velvet series. You don't have to use size 6 specifically. I also have the size for that I like using for some smaller leaves. I just would recommend not using anything smaller than size for. It can just be a little tricky to create those nice full fake leaves with anything smaller. You will also need watercolor paper. So for this class I'll be using one of my favorites, Legion Stonehenge, Aqua cold press, 100% cotton paper. If you're a beginner or just want to practice, any watercolor paper will work just fine, but I would recommend looking into Canson XL student grade watercolor paper. You will also need a jar or a bowl of clean water to rinse your brush, a pallet or dish to mix up all of your colors, and a clean paper towel to dab excess water from your brush. Finally, for your class project, it'll be helpful to have something round to trace for your wreath. I'm just going to be using this simple bowl here and a pencil to trace the circle of your wreath. In the next lesson, and we'll go over color mixing and how to create those perfect natural, earthy shades of green. I'll see you there. 3. Color Mixing: So we're going to start by mixing five different shades of green. These are some of the color combinations that I use most frequently when I'm painting leaves and florals. And I think you'll like them too. As I said before, I'm going to be using this hookers green as the base for all of my mixtures. So I'm gonna go ahead and add a little of the screen to my palette. And then for this first green brown mixture, I will be using the color called bare from Woodlands palette. It's just this nice dark brown to if you don't have this specific one, any dark brown, It's fine. So I'm gonna get my brush wet, grab some of that, bear, and add it to the hookers green. I added a lot of green, so I'm going to have to add quite a lot of the brown to get to the shade that I'm looking to get. I'm going to grab some more brown and I will probably do one more round. All right, that's looking really nice. So I'm going to just do a little test slot here on the paper to see how that turned out. I'm really liking that. I'm gonna do a lighter wash to see what that will look like to you. Love it. All right, for our second color again, we'll be using hookers, green as the base, but instead of brown, I'll be adding in a touch of Indian red. So again, I'll go ahead and put some green into my palette. And then just a touch of their head. Now I'll get my brush wet again and start mixing it up. Love how this color turns out. So let me show you on paper. And again, I'll do a lighter wash. I love that shade, I absolutely love it. And that's one of the things I also wanted to share is some of you mentioned that one of the struggles you have when you're painting leaves is that they don't look very realistic. They look a little fake. And color mixing is actually one of the biggest things that can help make your leaves look natural. If you have just a bright green or something that you wouldn't normally find if you're out in nature, that doesn't look very realistic. But when you make these earthy tones, just gives your whole painting a more organic, natural look. Because these are all colors that you would actually go see in nature if you're on a hike or something like that. Our third color, we're going to be mixing is a really nice, deep, moody green. So I love using this color combination if I have kind of a moody vibe from a floral composition, or if I'm using some more vintage colors. So this is going to be hookers green once again, and then indigo. The thing to know about Indigo is just use a very, very small amount. It's easier to use a tiny amount and then add more. But if you add too much upfront, it's really, really hard to take a step back and then the indigo just kind of overwhelms the whole mixture. So here comes the green again. Add a little more. And then just a tiny dot of the indigo. Let's see what this looks like. I actually want to add a little bit more indigo than that. But because I started off with such a little amount, it's very easy to just add some more. Like I said, if I started off with too much indigo, there's no going back. So here we go again. There we go. That is perfect. Let me show you what this looks like. And the lighter wash. Love that. The next shade will be kind of similar to the one we just did, creating that Moody shade again. But instead of indigo blue, we're going to be using a touch of Payne's gray. I love adding Payne's gray, really any of my color mixtures. So there's the green and the gray. I'm going to add a little more gray. Like I said, it's very similar to the one we just did. Love, that hint of gray in it. I'm going to do even one more of a lighter wash. Beautiful. Finally, for the last color, we will be using a goose Green surprise, surprise. And this color called The Sand Ridge. This nice beige, light, light, light brown. So I'll add the green. And the beige color is very light, so it might take me a couple of rounds to get it to the shade of green that I'm hoping for. Rinse my brush and do another round. Loving that already. And I'll probably just do one more to get it a bit lighter. Love it. And there you go. These are my five most frequently used color combinations for earthy green leaves. Now that we have our palate all set up and different color options to choose from. We'll actually get started with painting leaves and the next section. 4. Basic Leaf Strokes: So this first lesson is all about how to create the basic leaf shaped by simply using varying amounts of pressure on your round brush, which is a technique that can be used for painting all different types of waves. So before we start, it's important to identify which parts of the round brush will be utilizing for each leaf. So at the very tippy top of your brush is what we're going to be using to start the leaf stem and to finish up the pointy end of each leaf. And the head of the brush is the area that will be pressed onto the paper in the middle of the leaf to create the thickest part. So let's get started with some practice strokes. First, I'm going to load my brush with one of the shades we mixed up in the last lesson. Make sure you don't have too much water on your brush. Otherwise it might pull up at the end, but you also don't want too little. So the basic steps for greeting elif is to go light pressure, heavy pressure, light pressure again. And that's kind of the routine that will be following. I'll do that again slowly. First that the very tip of your brush onto the paper to create a light dainty stem. And then as you create the thicker part, you'll just lay your brush down with more pressure and then end with light pressure again to create that very pointy edge. So I'll show you again with a little closer up angle. Very tip of my brush, creating a thin little dainty stem. And then applying more pressure as you create lithic part and then lighten up again to create the very tip at the end. Let's do it a few more times. Light pressure, heavy pressure, light again. One of the problems you might run into when you're first starting is you won't get that pointy end. You might end up with something like that, which is fine. If you do want the pointy end, you can just drag it out a little further to get that point that you're looking for. Let's do some more. You can also vary the shape of your leaf. So if you want something a little more around, don't drag it out as far. Just push your paper, push your paint brush down and then bring it up. If you want a longer pointier leaf and drag it out longer. So create the stem, push down, drag it out, and pull it back up. So just go ahead and keep practicing this. Play around with different links of your leaf. Also, if you want to again give it a more natural look, you can give it a little bit character, a little bit of swing at the end. One of my favorite ways to add leaves to usually my rows compositions is to have it just kinda draping down. So don't feel like you have to have perfectly round or oval shaped leaves. You don't have to have perfectly straight edges. Some of my favorite leaves end up with a little bit of texture like that on the side. One other problem that you might run into when you're practicing these leaves is you might get some pooling at the end. If you have too much water on your brush. So that's what it looks like when it pulls. One way you can fix that if it's not too much pooling, you can just gonna drag your brush around and even it out. If it is too much. Then rinse off your brush completely, dry it completely, and then tap it back in there to help up some of that excess water. We're gonna do that again, drying my brush, soaking up some of that extra thoughts and easy way to get rid of the cooling. Feel free to keep practicing leaves or meet me in the next lesson to learn how to create thicker, fuller leaves using two brushstrokes instead of one. This is personally one of my favorite ways and my go-to way to paint leaves. See you soon. 5. Double Stroke Leaves: Now we're ready to create thicker, fuller looking leaves with two brushstrokes instead of one. This technique is very similar to the one we just learned. So you'll be a pro in no time. So the basic idea of the two stroke leaf is to create leaf just like we did in the first lesson. So we'll go ahead and do that. But then starting at the base of the leaf, not the stem, will be creating an identical one right next to it. And then connecting it at the top. So I just love that big, oh, thick look of that leaf. One thing to keep in mind when creating these is to leave a little bit of whitespace there in between them. You don't have to do that. I'll show you what it looks like. If you don't, it'll just be a thicker leaf, which is totally fine, but I do love that look of having a little bit of whitespace in there. So let's review that will create a basic leaf just like you did. And then right next to it starting at the base, will create another one leaving a little bit of whitespace there in the middle and connecting again at the top. So let me show you a closer angle. Create that first leaf. Put your tip of your brush right here at the base. Leave a little bit of white space and connect at the top. Look how beautiful that we face. This is the one technique that I use most frequently when I'm painting leaves. I tend to go for a little bit of a fuller looking leaf. Let's practice that some more. And again, you can apply this technique to as many different shapes of leaves that you want. So first I'll do a fat, kind of more round shape leaf. So using a lot of pressure on my brush and not really dragging it out too far. And then connect it. Or you can also use it for longer skinnier leaves. And then drag this out really far before I lighten up on the pressure and make another one right next to it at the top. And like I said in that first one, if you want it, add more texture, gives the lethal Omar character. You can make it droopy. Maybe have it pointing down a little bit. And then you'll just start right here at the base and connected. Let's practice a few more times. You can also make little dainty small leaves using the same technique. We'll do that up here. We can also try making a two leaf stem here. I'll make kind of a longer stem. Paint the leaf. And then I'm gonna make one coming off of here to you that's hanging down a little bit. Again, for this method to you're going to be using the same exact routine. Light pressure, heavy pressure and linked. And again, light, heavy and light. So feel free to keep practicing this. Muscle memory is a big thing in watercolors. So the more times you do it, the better you're going to get, the more easy it will come to you. So keep practicing and I'll see you in the next lesson. Next up, I'll show you just how easy it is to create stunning two toned leaf petals using a simple dipping method. 6. Two-Tone Leaves: Okay, Now that you know how to create two different shapes of leaves, Let's spice it up a bit with one of my favorites, too toned leaves. So here's a little sneak peek at what those look like. So for this demonstration, you're going to want to have contrast in the shades are the colors that you're using. So I'm going to be using a really, really light wash of that kind of Beijing green that we used. And then I'm also going to use a really dark the indigo green that we used. So here's how you do it. Load up the entire brash with your lighter color. Make sure it's not too wet, but just make sure enough of your brush and the color on it. And then dip just the very tip of your brush into the darker color. So I'm dipping it into this indigo. Next we'll paint the leaf the same way we did. I'm going to use the two stroke leaf. And then that darker color will show up in the stem and throughout the leaf and just give it a nice contrast and look. You can see in that the stem is the darker indigo green. And then you can also see that kind of lined throughout the leaf. So let's do that again. This time I'm going to use different colors just to mix it up. But you always want the first color that you load your brush up with to be lighter. And then the darker one on the tip. And let's try it again. Love that. And the load my brush up again. So it just gives you a leaves a little bit more dimension. This is our first lens looked like, which are awesome, but they're all just the one color that we use. So when you use this dip, dipping method, just gives them a little more interest. So let's practice some more. So let's keep practicing. I have my brush all loaded up with a light green in the head of the brush. And then the darker indigo on the tip. Gonna go light pressure stem, heavy pressure leaf, and late again. Same thing here on the bottom. So see how that just adds some interest to the leaf. I really love how that looks. If you want to, you can even try this method with colors that you normally would not use for your leaks. So just for fun, I'm going to try this with my tropical palette from Art Philosophy. I'm going to load my brush with the yellow, bright tropical yellow. And then I'm gonna do this pink. Let's see how this one looks. So cool. Sometimes it's easier to see with totally different colors like these. And that is just using a lighter color and the darker color. So I encourage you to just play around with other colors that you have. And just experimental little more with this style. Look how awesome that looks. Nice little fiery leave. I'm gonna do one more around because I just really love this color combo. Beautiful. I love using this method when I want to add a little dimension and interest to my weave, feel free to keep practicing, try out with different color combinations. And I will see you in the next lesson. 7. Layered Leaves: Painting, layered leaf stems are great for creating wreaths or using them as fillers and larger floral compositions. You'd be surprised just how easy they are to paint. So the important thing to know when you're painting layered leaves like these is to always start with the lighter wash or lighter color on the bottom and then add darker layers on top. You'll find that when painting with watercolors, you can always layer darker on top of light. But unfortunately it just does not work the other way around. So let's start with painting a single leaf stem. So this is the same green that we mixed up earlier. I just added some more into this little pellet. So to create the stem, I'm going to use just the tip of my brush. Create a long stem and then a leaf on top. And I'm just going to use the single stroke weight for this. So now that you know how to paint those waves, the rest of the stem, that's going to be really easy. So you'll just work your way down painting dainty little alternating stems. And one thing to keep in mind is to just leave enough space in between each leaf. So don't make them too close together. Because when we add our second layer, it'll be going in-between. Add another little stamp and another leaf and just work your way down. So there you go. I'm going to wait for this first layer to dry and then we'll add the second layer on top of it. Now that this first layer is dry, I'm going to add the second layer. And remember you always want your second layer to be darker. So in this case, I'm going to be using the deep moody green that we mixed with Payne's gray. And basically what you're gonna do is you're going to create another one of these on top of it and just put each leaf in-between the first ones. And you do want some white space. And that's why you left this whitespace here. But actually when they overlap slightly on top of each other, it just makes it look a lot more fuller. And that's when the BD and the depth really shows up. So I'm just going to gently trace over the stem again with the darker color. And then I'm just going to branch off here, create a leaf and do the same exact thing all the way down. And again, see how that overlaps there. That's completely fine. I actually prefer it to overlap a bit. Can have a darker ones coming up a little bit. Let's give it some varied direction. There you have it. I love the look of these layered leaves, as I said before, they're nice and thick. I use them as fillers a lot. And I'm probably going to use this technique in our class project at the end as well. I'm going to do one more practice one. But I'm going to give the stem a little more character by adding a bit of a curve to it. So I'm just mixing up this lighter green. This is the beige E1. Wanna do it right next to the first one. But I'm just going to have it loop down a bit. I'm going to do the same exact thing and making the leaves a little fuller. Giving him this droopy quality that I really like. And feel free to play around with different color combinations. You could even just use the same exact color and make one little lighter than the other. Orange like we did in the last one, you can use totally different colors than you normally would. You can use purples, yellows. Now, I'm going to go back in to do the second layer once it's dry. And I'm going to actually try using this darker brown one that we created in the color mixing lesson. So let's see how this unlikes trace over the stem. You get a nice, clean and do the same all the way down. So there you have it. I love using this technique. Like I said, it just makes it look a lot thicker and fuller. And I just love it. It's one of my personal favorites. I hope you enjoy it at that technique. It is one of my personal favorites. I use it all the time. And the next lesson I'll be showing you how to add depth and dimension and highlights to your leaves by using the wet on wet and lifting techniques. 8. Adding Depth & Highlights to Leaves: All right, You made it to the final lesson. We're going to be going over how to add depth and dimension to each of your leaf petals using techniques like wet on wet and lifting. So these are a little trickier than the other methods that we've learned in the class. But with a little practice, you'll be all good to go. So first, let's talk about what the wet on wet method really looks like. What I'm basically means you're layering paint on top of another layer that hasn't dried yet. It's still wet. So you're putting wet paint on another layer of wet paint. Using this technique, beautiful organic blooms allows you to practice blending, blending colors, and is truly the most magical part of painting with watercolors. And remember this is different from the wet on dry method that we just used in the previous lesson to create the layered leaves. So in that lesson, we waited for the first layer to dry and then we put the second layer on top. In this method, we'll just be putting the second layer directly on the wet. So let's practice the wet on wet technique by creating some basic blooms. So first I'm going to take a really light wash of sunscreen, rinse it off a little bit. And I'm going to feed a basic circle. Now before it dries, quickly load up your brush with a darker color or a darker wash of that color, and simply drop some of that onto the circle that you painted and watch the paint bloom. You can add as many as you like until you get the hang of it. I'm going to paint one more circle and drag in my circle. Loading in some darker green. And watching it blue, tick putting a wet layer of paint on the layer is still wet. So now let's try that again. But instead of blooms will try actually blending the colors along the edge of the circle. So we have a very light wash Again. When I paint another circle, does not have to be perfect. I'm going to load my brush with the darker green. I'm just going to gently line the edge of the circle to create a nice little shadow blended effect. If it's not blending as well as you'd like, this one's not too bad. But you can always clean off your brush, dab off the extra water, and then just softly feather that out to help it blend a little better. This taking a clean damp brush, hoping smooth out the edges a little bit. You don't have to do this work. If you want it to look more organic, you can leave it. But I'm just showing you in case you want to blend it out of it. So I'm gonna do that process one more time. Getting the very light wash of green. I'm going to make it a little darker. In doing my circle. Now I'm getting the darker. I'm going to try blending that out just like I did the other one. Cleaning my brush, drawing it. And those kind of feathering that out to help blend it a bit better. Now let's talk about the lifting technique. Lifting is what happens when you have a wet layer paint and you use a clean dry brush to lift up some of the remaining color to create a nice highlighted effect. So let's practice this method. When I start by painting another circle. Just like we did. Well before it dries, take a clean dry brush. This dabbing off excess water here on my paper towel. And lift up some of that color to create a nice little highlight. And remember, you can use the same trick to help with pooling of water as well. Doesn't matter what your painting, you can always use the lifting method to create highlights. So I'm going to practice that one more time. Load up my brush, create a circle. Clean my brush, dab the excess water, soak up some of that extra heat. So that's what the lifting method is and we'll be using that when we get started painting leaves up next. So now let's get started painting the actual leaf and using the techniques that we just practiced. I'm going to start by lightly outlining the shape of the leaf with this pencil. You certainly don't have to sketch it out first. But if you do, just make sure it's light enough that it won't show up after you lay your paint down on the paper. Once you paint over your pencil marks, you won't be able to erase any of it. I'm just going to sketch out just a loose shape. It doesn't have to be perfect. I'm just gonna go over that, gently dabbing with my eraser so that it's light enough that you won't see it. Okay? Now, I'm going to start with a really light wash of the earthy green brown that we mixed up. And I'm going to fill in the leaf but not the stem. Next. Before that layer dries, I'm loading my brush with a darker wash of the same earthy green. And I'm going to gently tap in this darker color along the left side and the bottom of the leaf. I'm also going to go in with a darker color and create that stem. Once it connects with the leaf, you see that it blooms. Right there at the bottom. Load is adding in that darker color, just like we did over here with the circle. And, and maybe add a little bit on this side. And now that we have the darker shadow of the leaf will add a little highlight by lifting some of the original color towards the right side of the leaf. So I have a clean, damp brush. And I'm just lifting some of that color to create a nice little highlight. If you do, again, find that you have any harsh edges after it dries, you can always use a clean, damp brush to gently feather it out and help blend it a little bit. So I'm gonna do it again, but just slightly closer views, but you can see it a bit better. And this time my leaf is going to be skinnier. You can choose whatever shape you wanna do. The methods that you learn is the most important part. You can apply it to any shape. It also doesn't have to be reuse. Whatever you're painting, you can use wet on wet and lifting. So again, go in here with a light wash. And I'm just filling in the leaf, not the stem. You can do the stem, but we're going over it anyways with that, our gouache, though. You don't have to it's filling in the lease, making sure I don't have too much pooling going on. And then I'm loading my brush with a darker shade, darker wash. And it's going to tap it in generally to create a little shadow. I'll also add the stem here. Yeah, and you can see when it connects with the leaf, it blooms and creates a nice little effect there. Now I'm going to do the same thing we did with the other leaf. Cleaning off my brush, drying it, and taking a little highlight here using the lifting method. I also, I'm not crazy about this kind of harsh line. It didn't blend as well as the other ones. So I have a damped brush and I'm just gonna kinda feather it out here and help it blend a bit better. Still not crazy about that. So I'm going to wet the leaf again and add in some more color. We just got that. We've got the darker color on my brush. I'm adding a bit more. There we go. I'm liking that better. And again, this isn't a perfectly clean edge, but personally I like that better. And it just helps the leaves look more natural, like something you'd see out in nature. So that's the technique for creating depth and dimension in your leaves. I love doing that. It just adds a whole other layer to your floral compositions. Or if you're just doing leaves on their own, I just love it. So as I mentioned before, these techniques can be a little trickier and they definitely require more water control in your brushes. So feel free to keep practicing until you feel comfortable. And I'll see you in the next video to start our final class project, the leafy wreath. 9. Class Project: Leafy Wreath: Now we can finally get started on our class project. We'll be creating a leafy wreath. So we'll be using either one or several of the techniques that you learned in the class. So choose your favorite or a combination of favorites, and we'll get started. So we'll start by tracing a circle for our wreath. You can use whatever you'd like to trace a circle and personally just going to use on your cereal bowls from the cupboard. So I'm going to place that face down on the paper. And then just using a pencil to gently outline it. There's my circle. Once you've outlined three words, you'd like to choose which colors you're going to use. So for this one, I'm going to be using some of the darker, moodier ones that we mixed up with Payne's gray and indigo. And I was running a little short on the colors we originally mixed, so I just went ahead and made some more. As far as deciding which leaves you want to use in your wreath, It's really up to you. You can choose one of your favorites from the class. You can use a combination. I personally will probably just use a combination and just kind of wing it as I go. Those are the reads that I tend to lean more towards are the ones that aren't too planned out that just look natural and full. And so that's why I'm just going to do small sections at a time and just create the leaves as I go. In a couple of other notes before we begin. While it might be tempting to trace the entire circle outline with your paint first, I don't necessarily recommend it because it's likely to get smudged with your hand before it dries. And I've noticed that the leaves in the wreath tend to look more natural and organic without a perfectly lined circle, but instead by painting small chunks at a time. And finally, don't feel like you have to keep your leafy stems directly on the circle that you outlined. You definitely don't want them to get too wild and start going off the page. But your wreath will look fuller if your leaves move freely to the side and even if they overlap slightly as you go. So here we go, I'm going to get started. Again. Feel free to use whichever techniques that you like or if you want to follow along with me. As I said before, I'm just kinda winging it and seeing what feels natural to me as I go. But I'm going to just start in small little sections and I'm going to be turning my paper as they worked my way clockwise. So I'll probably start by adding a little stem here and see how I went a little bit to the left of the circle there. That's what I was talking about, how it look more organic. If it's not directly on the circle. So don't be too rigid. Who's adding some leaves here? And I will probably make this one into a layered stem. So if you remember from that lesson, I will end up going in the second layer after this one, Dryas and add some more leaves and a darker shade of this. So I'm going to grab a darker shade. And I'm going to go back over top. This is already dried. I'm going to go back over the top and some darker leaves here. And again, totally fine if it overlaps. Don't be afraid to change up the shape of the leaves too. You can see this one a little bit slanted to the right. Just adds a little more character and interests to your leaf stem. So there's the first one. I'm pretty happy with that and now I'm going to continue on at the top here, another stem. So I'm getting some paint on my brush. And instead I'm just gonna do some curvy stems. And I'm just going to add the two stroke leaves that we learned in the second lesson, but I'm going to make them really small and dainty. And I add one more stem here. So to make them small like this, I'm just using the very tip of my brush. I'm still doing that same pressure pattern where you do light, heavy and light. But I'm just not putting the entire brush down on the paper because that would make it a little too big for what I'm going for. Don't forget to vary the direction too. Like you can see, I just made this one go slanting down a bit. I don't want it to be too uniform. So don't be afraid of them overlapping. You can see I just overlap those two. And I'm just continuing to add leaves as I go. And I overlap this one here. So you can see this little kinda bunched up here. They all are overlapping. And it looks more natural. I know I've used the word natural allowed, but that helps a lot when you're painting leaves because you don't want them to look fake. So again, if you're having trouble creating these, were doing light pressure for a little tiny stem. Heavier pressure, but not too much as you go down and then lighten up again at the top. If you are struggling, I really recommend just filling up a whole page with practice strokes. That's the only way you're gonna get better. Practice, practice, practice. And each time you do, the next time we bring out your pins, it's going to come back to you a lot faster. Another trick you can use the make little stems off of each other. So like this wasn't its own original stem. So I created one here and then just added a little mini sprig right off of it. So whatever feels right to you, you're creating these leaves stems. Just go with your gut. I'm really liking how this one is looking. Now I'll move on to another one. So now I think I'm going to create two more layered sounds like this, 1, 1 veering off to the right and one a little bit longer and to the left. And I want to try using the method. And that's what we used to create those beautiful tombstone waves. So I'm going to start, I'm not using the disk method yet because I'm going to draw my stems first. Like I said, one coming off to the right, one coming off a little longer and to the left. And I'll probably add one more here. You want to make sure it still follows the curve of the circle. So that's why out of this one here. So but it continues what we've already started. So as a reminder, to do the two tone, once you fill your brush with a lighter color, dip the tip and the darker. And then create your leaf just as you deal with other ones. It's a little hard to see what this lighting, but you can just add a lot of depth and interest by having those two different shades within one leaf petal. So it takes a little longer to create the two petals just because you have to read a bit more frequently. But that's okay. So you can see in that one a little better if the darker color here for the stem and then just kinda spread throughout. But you also have the nice light areas here from that first color that you load it onto your brush. So I'm just going to keep doing that same thing all the way down. And again, make sure you're varying the direction. I'm going to have this one going rogue a little bit facing backwards. Don't be afraid to do things like that. And we're almost done here that weren't overlapping below that. Okay, I'm really liking how this is looking so far. So one thing you can notice is this is going a little rogue. And so when I start my next section, I'm just going to really want to bring it back in and maybe add some more leaves coming inward because we don't want all of them going outside of the circle. So I'll show you what that looks like next. So my next section. And notice that I have nice dark contrast here in this first layered one, but the next you are kinda flat. They have the same colors, so I'm going to bring back some of that dark color. So I'm just loading up my brush here. And I think for this one, I'm going to use the single stroke leaves that we learned in the very first lesson. Drawings and stems, like I said, I want to bring some direction back into the circle. And so this one to go into a little rogue outside. So just curving it back. So now let's do this single stroke leaves that we practiced in the very first lesson. Light pressure, heavy, drag it out and light again. So I'm making these a little longer and slimmer. Light, heavy and light. Light, heavy, light. Also make sure that your previous layers have already dried so that your arm doesn't smudge it. Heavy pressure and light. Loading up my brush again. Light and the light. And again, if you end up with some leaves like this that don't have the pointy tip that you're looking for. You can just go back in and add it up. One of the things that I just love about watercolor is that the very forgiving, you can always go back and mix up your mistakes. Again, I'm going to add some different direction here and just kinda bring that one backwards. And it's even overlapping with the other leaf. And really, really love how hot one looks. I'm going to back this up and take a look at it. See what's missing. I think these leaves are fuller than any other ones we've created over here. So I'm going to try to add two more fuller leaves here. I might just do a few to leaf stems here to add some thicker parts. Okay, this part still a little wet, so I'm just going to be very careful not to lay my arm down in it. That would be a major bummer. So just gonna do a few stems here. And just kinda map out where I want these leaves to go. Ok, that looks good for now. And like I said, I really like these thick leaves over here up the top. I'm going to try to make these ones thick as well. Just pushing down. I'm doing the two stroke leaf and just filling in where those stems are. And you definitely don't have to copy this exact method that I'm doing. If you had other flowers that you liked better during the class, you can use those. And so this is looking a little too bare for me. So I'm gonna go back in and add some more. And again, just kinda going with my intuition. Seeing where it looks to wear and adding in some fillers. You can see I also making these extra leaves a little bit darker than the first layer. Another trick I like to do when I'm working on leaves, stems like this is to just add just some thin strokes like this. I don't have to add actual leaf petals at the end of them. It's almost like some blades of grass. Just be loose with it. Okay. I really like that. On to the next section. Okay, for the fun, I'm going to go back and do some smaller leaves just like I did here. So I'm actually going to move from a size six brush to my size four. And again, I'm still using this dark indigo green and the pins gray. If you liked other colors that we mixed it up, or colors of your own house, always feel free to use this. So let's see. I'm going to create a stem along the circle that we outlined. And then again, just do some branches off. I'm actually just going to take it all the way to the end and connect to where we started. Now, I'm just going to add little tiny waves. Do you remember how to add these little leaves? If you don't, I'll give you a quick refresher. I'm just using the very tip of the brush, not really laying down the entire brush. Otherwise that would leaves that are thicker than what I'm actually going for here. There's still using the same routine of light pressure, heavy and light. But just in a smaller leaf. Again, I'm going to add some little sprigs here and just work my way down. Alright, so I sped up that last section. But here is what the final product will look like. I'm not totally done yet. I like to look at it from a further perspective at the end just to see what's kinda missing. So we see there's a little bit of a gap here. And I think I'm going to add some more of these petals first because there's only this one section. So I want to make it a little more common and also to help fill that gap a little bit. So feel free to do that with yours as well. Just kind of look at it a bit further away and see if you can spot any areas that need some more attention. So let's see. I don't want it overlapping too much, but I'm going to create one here. So there's my first layer and then I'm going to go back in with my darker. They're going to make that actually a little bit darker. Remember to leave enough white space between the first layer and second, but not too much because you do want some overlap. And then I'm going to help this one pointing backwards a little bit. I also see a bit of a gap here. So I'm going to add one more leaf there. And actually another one in-between left. Okay, It's looking good. I just see a little gap here. And also down here. Usually it's in-between. The different sections that you start might look a little bit jerky, so just go in and add some more. I'll probably add some of these little wispy strokes here. Maybe another leaf. Just whatever feels best to you. I'm going to add some more darker ones here. Hey, that's looking pretty good. This was the other section I wanted to clean up. Okay. I'm really liking this and I'll probably actually is the one where whitespace here. So just kinda go with your gut and if you have any areas that look a little bit jerky, do you just add some more fillers? Okay, there we go. I hope you're happy with yours too. If you don't like it right off the bat, you can either start over or what I usually end up doing is just adding onto it, adding onto it. And then you'll end up with something you like. And if you don't, at least it's good practice. 10. Final Thoughts: I want to sincerely thank you again for joining my first ever Skillshare class painting loose watercolor leaves. And a great time and I hope you did too. Don't forget to upload your final project to the class project forward. And also if you do decide to share your artwork on Instagram, feel free to tag me at petals by Priya. So thank you again so much. It means a lot to me that you took the time to watch the class. I'm really looking forward to seeing all of your projects and happy painting from me to you.