Night Photography: Capture Your City at Night | Kasia Banasiak | Skillshare

Night Photography: Capture Your City at Night

Kasia Banasiak, Photographer and mix-media artist

Night Photography: Capture Your City at Night

Kasia Banasiak, Photographer and mix-media artist

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8 Lessons (40m)
    • 1. intro NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY

    • 2. THE LIST

    • 3. Get READY

    • 4. Camera SETTINGS

    • 5. EXAMPLES

    • 6. BONUS lesson

    • 7. SUMMARY

    • 8. Thank You

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About This Class

 Winter time often stops us from taking pictures outside as it gets dark very early and we need light to take photos. In this class, I'm hoping to inspire you to take your camera and capture your city at night.

In my new Lesson, I'm going to teach you how to take gorgeous pictures of your city at night and also how to capture fireworks in the correct way. By the end of this class, you will know how to recreate magical moments of that night time summer holiday walk.

I will walk you through those ''confusing'' camera settings and explain why we are going to set the camera certain way. I will also tell you what equipment exactly you need for your ''night lights'' journey. 

This is a link to the promised Chart you just need to click HERE and then click download.

Meet Your Teacher

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Kasia Banasiak

Photographer and mix-media artist





Hi, my dear students!


About me:

my backstage video

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my Facebook page---> facebook

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I have been photographing since 2007. That's when I decided to move to the UK and explore. Photography has always been my love, however, at the very beginning, I wasn't great. I was trying to learn how to become a professional photographer and develop my own style. After a few years of self-teaching, I've graduated from The New York Institute of Photography course in Professional Photography and Business. My focus is on portrait photography because I think you can tell so much by looking into someone's eyes.

By watching my classes you can learn u... See full profile

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1. intro NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY: Hi waiting, Miss Kasha. And I'm a freelance photographer. In today's lesson, I'm gonna show you how to capture your city at night, gonna show you so tricks and techniques how to take great pictures at night. First, I will go through what equipment you need then what preparations are necessary before we head off to our night journey. After that, we're going to go through the settings of your camera which will enable you to capture those beautiful night lights. I will show you a lot of examples. So congrats The concept as a bonus lesson, I will show you how to photograph fireworks. Don't worry. If you won't be able to memorize it all, I will attach charge with all the settings so you can don't know that and go back to it whenever you need As a class project, you will have to photograph your city at night. So don't hesitate andan role to my class because it will be very exciting. Class 2. THE LIST: Hi. And welcome back in this lesson. I'm going to go through what equipment you need. Basically, every time before you go for the photo shoot, try to make a list of things you need. So you don't forget anything. Start from simple things. Like camera, you might think. Yeah, right. I'm never gonna forget my camera. It's, Ah, big item. It's easy enough to realize it's not there. However, it happened to me before when I left the house with the back bug without the camera. So right, the camera down, then memory card. Make sure your memory cards got enough space. Make sure you've got the spare memory card. If you have one on, make sure all the pictures unit to be download are the node. Because sometimes you might forget and form of the card and you lose all your pictures the night before. Make sure your batteries are charged. If you have spare ones, take them with you. The camera uses much more power in a cold weather, so it's worth to bear in mind. Gloves are not the standard point off the shooting list. However, if you're gonna shoot outside at night in a winter time it's worked to have warm crowds and gloves because the feeling off cold might be really disturbing. And even though you would like to take some more pictures, you are to called to say Stay out anymore. That's what happened to me when I was recording footage for this class, especially in Amsterdam, was freezing cold. So I thought, I will include this point in a lesson. The tripod. You will definitely need one if you'd like to take pictures at night. If you don't have one and planning to buy one, make sure it's quite heavy. I know it's not that handy to carry it around, but have you? Tripod will enable you to take sharper pictures. It's possible to take pictures with any lands, but to be honest for the night photography, you will need a wide angle lands. Why you need as much space as possible as much image as possible to fit into the frame because you're gonna take landscape pictures, not portrait pictures, so the wide angle lenses necessary. I just tell you what happened before. I had a wide angle lens have only had 50 millimeter lands, so I took it with me and went to shoot landscapes. Guess what happened. I couldn't really capture what I was seeing. I could only capture sort off close ups off what I wanted to show. So definitely wide angle lens is a must for landscape photography on. We're coming to the end off our list. Don't forget your settings chart, which I'm gonna talk about enough common lessons, your list of locations which I'm gonna talk about in the upcoming lessons as well. You need to research a locations. You need some plan. You need to know where you're going. I know it's not always everything going with the plan, but it's good to have a plan on. This is the end off lesson one, and I will see you in listen to where we're gonna talk about preparations necessary before you head off for your night journey. So stay with me on Syria next chapter 3. Get READY: preparations are necessary. What do I mean by that is? Make sure you've got your list I was talking about in the previous license. Make sure you've got everything you need on. Make sure you research. We're going to go beforehand. If you know you're gonna photograph fireworks research from which place they're gonna be displayed. What part of the sky there will be displayed that on? What's the best spots to take? If you really care to take amazing pictures, make sure you arrive there before hand so you can be at the best spot. A viable in this case, I was taking pictures at the Civic Centre in Newcastle. It waas in years ive at 6 p.m. I wasn't to a show where the fireworks were going to be. I wasn't even sure how it was going to look like, but I decided to go anyway. I've had some tree sort off fitting into my frame. It was good for my composition, so I didn't mind on. I've managed to achieve pretty amazing pictures. So be a way off. Any additional objects like buildings, for example, Trees, monuments, anything like that. Anything which possibly can. The Stabia frame composition or maybe supported, but you have to be aware of it. I made that mistake that I wasn't aware of that. However, luckily it was supporting my composition, So I'm happy with that. Places like this, the traffic lights nicely, buildings a great to take amazing pictures off the light trails of the cars. I'm gonna show you how to do it in upcoming lessons, so stay with me. This is via Tariel in Newcastle. It's a great building to photograph. It's got great architecture and really nice light of night. There's a general rule for photograph in architecture on in terriers. Don't place the corner off the room off the building, in the centre off your photograph. Try to always place it on the side and you'll see how massive difference it will make in your compositions. When looking for locations to photograph, try to research landmarks of your city. There will always be nicely lit water. It's a really good thing to include in your photograph their light reflections in the water or the riverside. I'm sure you can find amazing locations in your city, and now I'm going to tell you why it's so important. to research what is happening in your city, where to go and what to photograph. For example, in this case, I had no idea that it was going to happen in years Ive that I was going to see some flu rest and creators and I could have taken amazing pictures. But I have not. Sometimes when you photograph fireworks, it's also about the lack. I think I was lucky this time. I think it's really important to start your photography journey from the sunset. First of all, you never know what kind of amazing pictures you can come up with. A second of all, if you'd like details off surrounding things to be visible, that's the best time to photograph just after the sunset. So they're sky. It's not pitch black, but it keeps you a sense off the night time. Also, if you're gonna start taking pictures in the evening, you might end up with amazing pictures of the sunset on that awesome effect off the star burst from the sun, which we're gonna talk about enough common lessons. I'm gonna explain how to set up your camera to get starburst effect from the night light from the sun from their reflections in the water. Okay, so what was this lesson all about? It was about being ready. Yes. Be ready. Have your equipment ready. Butter is charged. You have to know where to go. Basically, be ready. I know it's not all the time with everything goes with the plan, but then you've got to have a plan B or improvised. This is it for lesson number two. But stay with me in the next question. I'm gonna talk about settings on the camera. See you there. 4. Camera SETTINGS: in this lesson, we're going to talk about settings. I think settings of the camera are the most important in this case. By all means, I will not need you to memorize it. Oh, but I would like you to understand how it works. Once you understand what it's what you can apply this knowledge at any time on. If you forget what's all about, have made a charge, which can remind you at any time how to set your camera. What? Not to forget what to remember. Okay, let's talk a little bit about the child. Have made for you what we can see in the chart. There are some circles, some numbers, some colors. But what is all that supposed to mean? Let's start from the beginning. Talking about myself. Toe have absolutely no memory for names. I do memorize pictures very well, but no memory for names at all. So for all of you who are like me, a prepared discharge a little bit different way that I normally would. It's not only about the letters, they are pictures as well, especially for the subject off aperture and show their speed, which is a little bit confusing Okay, let's talk about aperture, then The large aperture is the smaller number. Yes, that's what is confusing about that. A smaller number like 2.1 point for 2.8. It's a large aperture. The high values like 16. It's a small aperture. Smaller aperture will enable you to create a starburst effect. But remember smaller aperture. You have a longer exposure you will need on what follows. If you wanna set long exposure, you will need a tribal, too. I've also mentioned that the large aperture will give you shallow depth of field, which means more blood background. They're small. Aperture will give you greater that fulfilled, which means that your whole image will be sharp. The large aperture values are really good for photography in portraits or close ups. Or if you'd like to emphasize your subject in a frame, the small aperture values I really good for landscapes in Terre Eos architecture or for anything you would like to stay in focus or the small aperture. It's really good for photography in groups of people. Why is that? You don't really want the first roll off your group to be sharp, and the rest of them to be blew it and not visible. You want all the group to be nice and sharp, so definitely. Then go for small aperture. 5.6 around eight should always work. Let's stay with the aperture subject for a little longer. I'm not sure if you have noticed, but larger aperture lances are more expensive. And I'd like to tell you why is that larger aperture by you will get more. Lighty will get into your camera. It is especially important in a low light conditions not like ours because you're gonna have a tripod on week on a photographic night. However, if you are planning on taking pictures with available light in the low life conditions, you might also think about large aperture Olin's. So, basically, those circles in a picture are demonstrated that large aperture, which is the smaller number, will enable your camera to get more light so it will work in the worst light conditions. Have you ever heard saying about the lens is more important than the camera? This is why it's all about apertures if you're gonna have really good camera but the lens with small aperture, be sure that you are not going to take amazing pictures in a low life conditions. That's true. Better comrades, More expensive commerce or full frame cameras have much higher tolerance for isil values. But we don't really want to set the eyes so too high because high eyes are, you, said more grainy image. He will get more off the quality you will lose. So it's much better to have a lance with larger upper chair than the camera with higher Aiso values. Okay, let's go to the next part. I have read somewhere and heard that multiple times to turn off any camera stablization settings when using a tripod. I'm not sure entirely why, but apparently it confuses the system of the camera because the comers already stable on a tripod on a guess you are losing the quality. I'm not quite sure why. If you like, you can go go ahead. But I always turn it off just in case, because I've read it many times. I've heard it many times from different people. So yeah, that's what I would advise Lenses Take the sharpest pictures in the upper two range off eight and 11 for the night photography. You don't really need to set your aperture above 11. 16 you will lose the quality. So the sweet spot for that, I would say, will be number 10. You might ask why 10? It's a low light condition. Why would you not started for number four? First of all, because the night pictures are the landscape pictures. Second of all, you don't need everything to be exactly visible. You just need to capture your lights the best way possible. The best way to insurance your night lights is to get that starburst effect, which is possible to get at small aperture values. I have also attached typical changes in values so you can get the best quality image every time. Let's talk about I S O surprisingly, you told me your eyes so, so high as you would think you do. Yes, you will need a high eyes. So when you want to photograph with available light, for example, on events or when the light is important to let your subject but with night photography, tribal is everything. When you said your camera on tripod, you don't really need to worry about I s o the aperture and the shooter Speed will do it all for you. Let's talk a little bit about the shooter. Speed. You want to get starburst effect, you need a small aperture. You have small aperture. You need the longer shutter speed. That's why if you'd like to photograph the person in a low light conditions on a good subject of your photograph, sharpen a frame. You will need higher Aiso values. The typical changes in values child applies mostly to the normal light conditions. However, I wanted to attach it so you can see the difference. Okay, so the conclusion ISS for the night photography. To get starburst effect, you will need smaller aperture around eight or 10 the I. So value could be around 400 depending on how much off the center you want visible on the shutter speed. By all means, you have having a try board, so don't be afraid to experiment. I don't have a ready recipe for the settings, but I always dio I roughly set my camera toe what it's supposed to be. I saw around 400 f stop eight or 10 and then I just my shutter speed. I always try to take a few pictures and compare. As I said, I have a terrible memory for numbers, names or anything like that. That's why I always take few peek, chase and compare. I work more visually what it's more pleasing visually, what I'm trying to achieve. But be sure with the large aperture, the only thing you will get its a burst off white light on its Not what you want. You want the colors to remain. You want all your style. Burst to Starburst. You want the lights trails from the car to pay the beautiful image. Hey, I think that's all about the child was in charge and how to use it. Let's move on to the camera setting modes. Okay, let's have a look at the camera settings wheel. We can see different settings. We've got aperture priority mode, the shooter speed parrot mode manual mode, the whole automatic mold on a few more, which I never use myself. I mostly should, with manual mode, actually 99.9% of the times, because I believe if you know how to use your camera manually, you can switch to semi automatic mode any time. But if it's the other way around, if you start to use your camera with automatic settings than using the manual mode will give you so much travel. I believe in learning things the hard way and then creating shortcuts if you need. I will explain in the second what aperture priority mode and should be carried more to do in what cases is the best to use them. I'm using their cannon camera, so symbols I'm displaying for the common camera. I could go through all the commerce a viable, but it's not the point. Just Google. Which symbol means what? And I tell you what's all about. For example, we know that in a canon camera symbol, P means automatic mode. TV shoot a priority 80 aperture Priority M stands for the manual. So if you are using different brand of the camera, just go on. Go, go and type of symbols in and you will know what they mean. And I will explain what all those priority modes do. Aunt, how and when to use them. A V mode, which is aperture priority. The exposure gives priority over the aperture setting on the shooter speed. Adjust accordingly. What that basically means you can set your aperture for, for example, number eight. And then the camera will set the shooter speed so the exposure is correct. For example, if you've got your F stop on number eight on the camera, said the shooter, speed accordingly. Then you change your F stop to number four. It says your camera that you are getting more lights so the shooter speed could be faster. Okay, a TV mode. It's a shutter speed priority mode. It allows the use A to choose a specific shooter speed while the camera adjust the aperture to ensure correct exposure. The aperture priority mode you could use. For example, when you shoot out those into sunny day. If you are in a constant life situation, it's fairly easy to set up your camera. But if the light is changing like outdoors, that's when you want to use aperture priority mode. The shooter speed parity mode. You could, for example, use if you are going to photograph the fast motion for all other instances. The manual mode. You said everything yourself. To be honest, I prefer that I'm in control of everything. Sometimes it's tricky when I'm photography in the situation when light is changing. Sometimes it left me with really overexposed pictures. But because I've been photographing for very long time and have been practicing the manual mode over those years now, most of the times I'm used to the settings, so I do it commands to practice with manual mode. Okay, I'm almost finished with the boring theory to finish off. I would just like to show you the settings of your camera inside your camera. For example, if you're gonna take pictures off the street, you can set your camera on timer, which means when you press the shooter, your camera will fire out in two seconds. It will enable you to take the most sharp images possible, because it will reduce the shake off the camera from pressing the shooter. However, if you are going to photograph fireworks, don't set it on timer because the camera doesn't know when the fireworks gonna set off and you might end up with images off the black sky for the fireworks. Really, I would recommend to set it on, continues shooting because really photographing the fireworks, it's a lug. If you have right settings, you can just hope that fireworks are going to paint beautiful image in your frame. I always said the pictures time owed to the landscape. I think this mode abuse me the best colors on. I think that's all the night. Photography's about about beautiful, colorful lights. As much as I don't like to use Autumn Oats, I would use auto wide bands. In this case, that usually works for me, so I was never everybody to try any other one. But you can experiment and see what's the best for you out said the light military mode for the evaluation Mitory mode. Just because it gives you an average off the center you're going to photograph on your subject is a landscape, not a single object. So definitely evaluation military mode. Is there one in this case, I think, a covert, all the settings for the camera. In this case, I always remind my students to shoot in the raw format. It's very handy as you can play with your pictures afterwards without losing the quality. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate and post them below the lesson, and I will answer them as soon as I can. Um, yeah, let's see some examples here. Next lesson. See you then 5. EXAMPLES : right now we're in Amsterdam is a beautiful city with great architecture and absolutely stunning applies. So I'm gonna show you tricks and techniques how to capture your city at night. This picture has been taken in Amsterdam. I've said small aperture so I could get that starburst effect. I've said not so long should I speed because I wanted people to remain quite sharp. So yeah, this is how Amsterdam Street looks up night. There's plenty of bicycles. The street is busy. You can still see Christmas decorations. So I think that's all for this picture. Okay, as I've mentioned before, landscapes with the water really good for night photography because the water reflects the light in a very beautiful way. And again, small aperture on long shooter speed. To take this picture, I've just had to turn around and hear have another amazing night light landscape. We have a concept off the water, reflecting light again. But there was a disturbing element in this frame at some point off me, taking pictures. There was a boat passing by, not only because of their composition rules to keep everything simple. It wasn't working for my image, but also because the boat was moving and had my camera said on long shooter speed. Why is that a problem? Because of the movement off the boat and long shutter speed, it looked like a glory piece off flight out. Say it wasn't adding anything to my image, not only adding, but it was disturbing. So I had to wait until the boat moves outside off the frame off the image. Here we have another example off the street off the Amsterdam It night. Prepare yourself that you are going to take many pictures, but you're gonna choose only a few, like in any kind of photography. It's all about those few amazing pictures, not about whole camera roll. I've always believed if you finish your photography session with one amazing picture, it was worth it. So don't get discouraged with amount of pictures you will have to take at the end of the day. It's a practice on. We have another image from the Amsterdam again. The concept off the water and the buildings are sort of special for Amsterdam on, As I said before, if you are looking for the places to photograph, look for the landmarks of the city remember to start your night to urinate from the sunset . Those pictures were taken on the way back from Amsterdam. I would never expect I'll be witness off such a beautiful sunset on the settings for the sounds of photography again small aperture on If you want objects in the foreground to stay black again, the small aperture will enable you to do it. Okay, On another reason to start your photography journey from the sunset, you might want to photograph the Starburst effect from the sun on. This is a little bit random picture like for the subject of this class. However, if you start on the sunset, you will get that dreamy, beautiful life. And you never know what kind of extra pictures you can come up with like this one on. Finally, we're gonna talk about how to photograph light trails off the cars again, the small aperture and the longer exposure. Depending on the speed of the cars, your exposure should be quite long, to be honest, even four seconds of possible. After setting your camera, just have fun and experiment and see what kind of images you can get 6. BONUS lesson: you who you've made it to the end off this class. It's a time now for the bombings lesson in this lesson. I'm gonna talk about how to take amazing pictures off fireworks. It's an amazing thing to take pictures off, but it might seem very tricky subject for some people. However, if you listen to my lessons carefully, you should already know the answer to those questions. So let's ask yourself another question. What would you like to capture in fireworks? Is it everything surrounding it or the colors off the fireworks or the lights? Trails from the fireworks? We have to understand when photographing fireworks, you want to capture the color. The light trails the fireworks itself. So if you will be trying to set your camera on high eyes so settings and fast shutter speed you might only get sort of strokes on a black background. But if you want your fireworks to look like this like they actually look, keep your aperture settings on around 10 and let the light to the magic. You don't need high. I saw a tall. In fact, the ISO settings should be only 200 maximum 400 on the shutter speed. It's only up to you. It all depends How much of the light trails off the fireworks you want to have in your picture? I would say the setting which normally works, is I s 0 200 f stop 10 on the exposure time around four seconds. But every situation is different. It also depends how many lights around you, how far you are located from the firework display. So as I said before, you can start from that point and experiment and adjusting to the situation you're in, it sort of works the same way as a life trace from the car. You want the light to make an art on its own. This is my favorite picture from Newcastle Carnival. I like how the tree is blended in with the composition. I love how one off the fireworks is looking like a moon on. I was lucky enough that the burst of the fireworks looks a little bit like leaves. Don't forget if your cameras called any stablization modes or your lens has switched them off when using the tripod. Also, when shooting fireworks, don't set your shooter settings on a timer. The little tip on my half said it on the continues shooting. This Fontaine, You also would be a great subject off the night photograph. However, I haven't had my camera with me. But similar settings apply long super speed on the smaller poacher. This is it for how to photograph fireworks. I will see in the next lesson. 7. SUMMARY : The conclusion is, First of all, make a list of things you need to take with you the best. If you make that list the day before so you can make sure your batteries are all charged on . You have time to find the missing parts of your equipment. Make sure you have your settings child with you, just in case. If you forget something, you can easily go back to it. There's a one point of the child I didn't talk about. It's to capture sharp images off objects. Emotion. The shooter speed shouldn't be slower than the value off the focal length off your lens. For example, if you zoom it in and your focal and it's 70 millimeters, he also their speed shouldn't be longer than one slash 70 off the seconds. This rule doesn't really apply tonight photography, but I thought it would be handy to know then the camera setting world, the automatic one, the shooter, priority aperture, priority and manual. The aperture priority allows you toe set aperture yourself and said shooter speed accordingly to the correct exposure with the shooter. Priority is the other way around you said the shooter speed and the camera will automatically said a future for you. Manual. You said everything by yourself with inside family are settings. Don't set the shooter on timer when shooting fireworks. However, when shooting still image, it might be hungry thing to do the light metering on evaluative mode. Picture style setting on the landscape on I would probably trust the auto white balance to do the job. Head off for your night light journey before the sunset for the sunset picture. Small aperture and long exposure for the fireworks. Small eyes. So small aperture and long exposure again when searching for a location, tried to look for the landmarks on landscapes with water on This is it. You've made it to the end. Now we should know how to photograph your city at night, how to photograph fireworks and get amazing images. Thank you so much for joining my class, and I can't wait for your project and your class project will be to photograph your city at night. If you have any more questions, just post them down below and I'll answer them as soon as possible. 8. Thank You: thank you very much for completing this class and joining me on the night light during a to see more of my work and get update on the skews. Your lessons Follow me on Instagram. My artistic nickname is Casey. So if you type Casey or Cassie photography online, you can usually find me. You could also fall me on Facebook. This is my Facebook page. I hope you've enjoyed today's class and I hope to see in the next one take care and happy shooting.