Next-Level Knitting: Easy Cabled Tank | Angela Hahn | Skillshare

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Next-Level Knitting: Easy Cabled Tank

teacher avatar Angela Hahn, Knitwear designer and novice mandolinist

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

11 Lessons (56m)
    • 1. Intro to Next Level Knitting: Easy Cabled Tank by Angela Hahn

    • 2. Easy Cabled Tank pattern

    • 3. Decreases, cable cross and counting rounds

    • 4. Side decreases

    • 5. Begin armhole shaping decreases and divide for front and back

    • 6. Begin neck shaping and divide for left and right front

    • 7. Left front neck shaping and cable cross

    • 8. Begin right back and place left back stitches on holder

    • 9. Hold shoulder stitches place left back stitches on needle and work first row

    • 10. Three needle bind off

    • 11. Weaving in ends

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About This Class

Are you a novice knitter who would like to take your knitting skills to the next level? Then this class is perfect  for you! If you can already cast on stitches, knit and purl, and do simple decreases, then you are ready to give the Easy Cabled Tank a try. While creating a knitted sleeveless top, you will learn: cable crosses, body shaping using decreases and double decreases, the three-needle bind-off to join the shoulders, and weaving in your ends to finish (no added edgings or other seams needed!).

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Angela Hahn

Knitwear designer and novice mandolinist


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1. Intro to Next Level Knitting: Easy Cabled Tank by Angela Hahn: Hi. Are you in office? Neuter would like to learn some new skills that can take your needing to the next level. Are you ready to move on from wash plus scars to Cowell's hats and even sweaters? My name is Angela Han, and I've been designing patterns for knitting for about 10 years. Now you can find my designs in magazines like Interweave Movement In and Mitzi in my first book of knitting patterns, knitted tanks and tunics, 21 Designs for Sleeveless Tops, published in April of 2018 online at Love, Knitting, Twist, Collective and Travel Re and also on my website attitude dot com. From a design perspective, it's pretty tough to create a knitting pad with that, using at least a few intermediate skills, such as shaping using increases and decreases message patterns like cables, lace or finishing techniques such as sewing seams and any agents. And from a knitters perspective, let's just a lot more interesting and fun when you've mastered some of these intermediate skills. Luckily, if you already know how to cast on stitches how to knit and have to pearl and how to bind off stitches, then you've already tackled some of meetings. Biggest challenges. The next steps are easy in comparison. As a beginner or novice knitter, your project options are pretty limited, but as an intermediate knitter, you're practically endless. So where to begin? I've decided to focus first time cables because they're always popular. They're beautiful, they're fun. And I promise you your easier than that. Hello and welcome to the second installment in my next level needing serious of classes. The first installment was the cable Samper cow. And if you need a refresher on techniques such as casting on stitches, placing markers or joining to work in the round, you may want to take a look because we will also be using those techniques for this project . The easy cable take so in this class will cover the techniques used for this tank, such as cable netting. This is a double cable that splits into single cables that frame the vida. I will also cover the decreases that shaped the body into a line shape, the double decreases that shaped the armholes as well as the decreases that shaped the Veena and finally will cover the three needle bind off, which is used to join the shoulder scenes. Now, if you prefer, you can also find off stitches and so the scenes. But I don't cover that technique in this class. So here I'll give you a look at the sides of the top. You can see the side decreases a little better, the double decreases that shaped the are holes, and then you can see that the back is identical to the fund, which makes the top a little bit simpler to work. So I think that sleeveless tops are great needing projects for any level of NATO, really, because they're versatile, where you can lay them over another top or under a jacket or another sweater, and they go quickly compared to a sweater, because you don't have to make any sleeves. So if you think you might want to try noticed sleeveless Top is he needed project after this one, and you may want to check out my first book of knitting patterns Admitted Tanks in Tunics, which was published in April of 2018. It includes 21 patterns for sleeveless tops, the raging difficulty from easy to more advanced. This is an intermediate level design, and the book also includes many different dating techniques. So I think we're ready to get started on our easy cable tank 2. Easy Cabled Tank pattern: so we're going to go through the written pattern for the easy cable tank. I'm assuming that you haven't used a lot of written patterns for garments, so if you feel comfortable going through the pattern on your own and certainly feel free to skip to the next lesson, but there's a lot of information in the pattern that it's ah, it's a good idea to look for certain things, so we'll start with the first page and we will start with the sizes. So here you have sizes for, um, extra small through three X and these measurements our body measurements. So if you see to fit bust, this means that it's to fit a bust between these sizes. So this is your this is your body dimension. And then the next thing you look at is the garment measurements, and these are the measurements of the finished top course corresponding to your size. So you want to look at these measurements the bust and hip and the arm hole, depth and length and decide how much ease or how much difference you want between your body size and between the garment. So if it's ah, looser fit, then there will be more difference between your body and the garment, and if it's a tighter fit, then there will be less difference. So down here, this shows that the sample that I made size small, um, fits with 1/4 inch positive ease on the mannequin right here. And so that means that the garment measurement is 1/4 inch larger than the mannequin bust measurement. Okay, so the next thing that we want to look at them will be the yard. You want to see how much you are, you need to make your size. Now, if you notice there are seven numbers here listed after yarn, and in many places and on the pattern, there will be seven different numbers. Those correspond to the seven different sizes that we have here extra small through three X , so it's always a good idea to circle or highlight the numbers for your size, read through the entire pattern and do that. And that way you avoid accidentally choosing the wrong number as your as your working through the pattern. So this tells you how much you are. You need both in yards and meters and also in skeins. If you decide to use the same yard that I used for the sample? Um, you're also told what needle size you need, But notice this last sentence once you met your gauge, which is right here, you need to knit a swatch, block it the same way that you'll block you're finished top and then measure to make sure you're getting this gauge. Because if you're not thing, you'll need to change the needle size, um, to get the correct gauge or the finished garment will not be the right size. So if you're gage is too small, in other words, if you are getting 12 stitches to for ashes instead of 14 and that means that you need to use a smaller needle if your gate is too large, if you're getting 16 the inches to four stitches and that means that you will need to change to a larger needle. Okay, now here's um, some pattern notes thes differ from pattern to pattern. In this case, I added a note about the yard that I used for the sample because it's ah, slightly unusual yard, and the gauge is a little unusual. So this is just about adjusting if you decide to use a different yard and, um and are getting a different gauge. Okay, move on to the next page. Now, this page is the stitch guide. It gives you instructions for working the cables, both in written form and in chart form so you can choose which you feel more comfortable with. And following that are the directions. Um, once again, you'll see a list of numbers. These are stitches. Um, in other places, there might be how many stitches that remain. But here they're stitches for casting on. So once again, circle or highlight the numbers for him, size don't make it much easier. So we will go through page three years more instructions, um, and then we get to the finishing part. So here our instructions for the three needle bind often written form. Those instructions air also in video lesson form. So we will move on to the last page, and this gives you the schematic. The schematic shows measurements for all the of the dimensions of the garment, not just for the bust. So that's a very useful tool when you're deciding which size you want to make. Okay, so for this class. I did not go through the cast on and set up instructions step by step. So if you want to review of that, you could take a look at the lesson in the cabled sampler cowl for those steps. But we'll just go through the pattern quickly here to see some of that. So, um, from this first paragraph, you see that you're using your circular needle to cast on your stitches. And like I did in the cable Samper cowl, I'm going to have you place markers every quarter of the stitches around the in the round because that makes it easier to count the stitches. So what you would do is cast on whatever number of stitches you need for your size. This number here place a marker. That's PM, and then you would repeat that three more times because that leaves you with the total number of stitches that you need. Um, and you already have markers placed at each side and at the center, front and back. And then that makes it easier to work. You're set up around, um, and in this round, you're going to place the cape, place the markers, fruit, the cables in the front and back as you as you work around the first round. Okay, so I think that's enough to get started. And if you have any questions or comments, certainly feel Frito. Leave a comment on the class page or contact me directly. Um, and I'm looking forward to seeing what you do. 3. Decreases, cable cross and counting rounds: Well, hello. As you can see, I've done quite a bit of work on my easy cable tank. But if you're just starting, this is still a good video to watch, because I show you how to do the side decreases, how to do the cable crosses. And I'll also show you how to count the rounds between between decreases to make sure that you have the right interval. So if you need help casting on placing markers, then I suggest that you watch the videos for the easy cabled cowl, which shows you how to do that. So here I'm counting rounds between decreases. The first decrease should have occurred on the 14th round after the cast on, and then each decrease after that is at an interval of 12 rounds. So on a decrease round, there's a stitch that joins two stitches in the ground below it. So count that is, number one count to 12 and then the next round will be your next decrease round. If you're working, decreases in intervals of 12. Now here I'm checking to see that the cable cross round some should occur on the next round , and I've counted one is the first case is the cable cross round, and then five more after that or six. So that means the next round is the right cross round. So here I'm at my marker to start the beginning of the round. And so what I'm going to do is his knit the 1st 5 stitches after I passed the marker to start the beginning of the round. And then I will work my first arm hole shaping Deke, which will be a simple knit two together. But it never hurts to have a little review. So there's five stitches knit and then I'll knit two together. And then what I'm going to do is knit to the cable and then I'll show you how to do the cable crosses. So you may have noticed here that I have removed the markers that I suggested that you put at the beginning and the end of the cable on the front and the back so you can leave the markers in. That's up to you, or at any point once it becomes obvious to you where the cable is and you don't need the markers anymore, and you can just go ahead and remove them, and then you don't have to worry about slipping them back and forth between the two needles . So this will be, Ah, this cable is, um, is actually composed of two crosses. The first cross is a right cross. So here in pearling the two stitches that divide the cable from the rest of the top. And then I'm going to take three stitches, put them on my cable needle and hold them behind the work. You notice I put them in the middle of the cable needles so they won't fall off. I then net the three stitches on the left hand needle, and then I take the three stitches on the cable needle. Now here. I'm going to show you just to get them right off the cable needles so you can slip them to the to the end of the cable needle and just knit them right from there without having to put them back on the first needle. So for the second half of the cable, I'm going to put three stitches on the cable needle, hold it in front of my work, and then I will net the next three stitches from the left hand needle. And once that's done, I'm going to show you a different way to do the cable. So I'm gonna put those three stitches back on my left hand needle and then net. Hm? No. Either way works. Fine. It's just depends on what is easier for you. And, um what seems to work better in terms of keeping the stitches in the right place on the needle and having, um, enough slack and enough comfort toe work them. So now, as you can see, we've finished the cable cross, and in a moment here, I'll show you how it looks. So you see, 1st 1st there was the right hand cross and then the left hand cross. 4. Side decreases: this video shows you how to do the side decreases the S s K and knit two together. So if you already know how to do those, you can skip on to the next video. So I'm coming to my side marker. I've counted to seven stitches before it, and here I slip slip. And then I knit these stitches together through the back and the net five. So you work to seven stitches before the marker so that you have two stitches for your decrease and then five stitches in between the decrease and the marker here you slipped the marker net and other five stitches, and then you'll work for knit two together. So you do this twice for one round. You stuck, actually start the round with the net five and knit two together, working pattern to seven stitches before the side marker S s K net five slipped the marker net five and knit two together again. Work to seven stitches before the end of the round. S S K and net five And that is your decrease round. So here I'll show you. Let's just make sure that we've had the right number of rounds since our last decrease. So here is the stitch that the last decrease I started with one. I'm counting to 12 and that should be the stitch below the stitch on the needle So we have the decreases of the right interval. 5. Begin armhole shaping decreases and divide for front and back: in the first part of this video, I show you what I think is an easy way. Teoh, count the cable Cross rose so you can see the marker from the last cable cross. Actually, the two cable crosses ago This is the round that is immediately after a cable cross round. So I'm working across my cable and as I go across these stitches, you can see that they have just been crossed. Now the cross row itself is difficult to mark. I feel because the stitches are so tight but the But once you go to the row after the stitches, loosen up somewhat and then you can place a safety pin or removable marker in the row directly below the row on the needle. And that is the actual cable cross row. So on the round, after your cable cross row, remember to place your marker in the row below the needle. In the second part of this video, I'm going to show you how to do the double decrease, which we used to shape the armholes. So here you can see that this is the second row after second round after the last side decrease and here, you can see it's the second round after the last cable cross. So we are at the right place. So what you're going to dio is knit the first stitch of the round after the marker on the net, three together. So put your needle into three stitches as if to net, and then let them all together. On that is two stitches decreased and then you work in pattern until you get to four stitches before the side marker and you'll do another decrease, You hear? I'm just checking to make sure that I'm on the second round after my last side decrease. And now we are six stitches from the side marker. So we're going toe net four stitches before the side marker and then do an SS sk Oh, you slipped three stitches as if to net and then go ahead and get those together. You leave the right needle in them. So that says, if you get them in the back now here, I'm going to show you a second way of doing this decrease because sometimes it can be a little tricky to get all three of those stitches together on the needle. Um So here you can slip Marie. So this part can be a little tricky getting that needle back into all of them. So just do the 1st 2 and then take that 3rd 1 and slip it over, and you get the same result as if you had slipped all three at once. Then Unit One, he removed the side marker because now you're going to turn your work and only work the stitches for the front. You would place the rest of the stitches in the round on a holder for a back for the back. But I'm not going to show you that. I'm just going to turn and work the stitches for the front from the wrong side. So now you're just going to PERL across until you get to the cable and then work those stitches in pattern Okay, in this section of the video I've pearled across and I'm almost to the wrong side of my cable now when we get to the cable, stitches were just going to work them as they present. In other words, here's our cable. From the right side, you can see the marker that marks the cross there and from the wrong side. So he was. The marker marks the end of the cable. So from the wrong side, it's the beginning. So unit. The 1st 2 stitches, which will be pearled on the right side. Pearl the neck, 12 stitches, which is the cable itself. Luckily, none of these wrong side rose will include a cable cross. So all you have to do is just work the stitches as they present themselves. In other words, if it's a Purl stitch, pearl it. And if it's a net stitch knitted and now we've come to the end of our cable from the right side, it would be the beginning, so you slip the marker and then you continue to pearl for the rest of the row. 6. Begin neck shaping and divide for left and right front: Okay. Here. I've almost finished. My first wrong side row is the front. I'm going to Pearl. These last few stitches. I'm going to then remove the marker, which is the beginning of round marker. Now, normally, the rest of this dish is would have been put on a holder for the back. But just for the purposes of showing you how to work the front, I'm just gonna leave those back stitches there for now. So we turned back to the front. And now what we're going to Dio is we're going to make our second in it three together. So first we net once did. Now pulled the aren't fairly snug here because you want a nice, neat edge. And then you put the needle through three stitches at once, and that knits three of them together. You can see that this second net three together is to rose after the 1st 1 because you worked one wrong side route in between them. So now we're going to work toward to, um, four stitches before the end of this row and do another decrease. So here we are. We're near the end of the row. You can see we don't have a marker anymore. But here's the gap where we had turned when we finished the last right side row and work to the wrong side of the front. So I now am going to net two more stitches. Which brings me to four stitches before the end. And now I'm going to slip three stitches and then past, uh, two of them together and pass the third over separately, which is a little easier than trying to do all three at once. Net the last ditch of the front. And then we're going to turn again and work the wrong side of the front, which means just pearling until we get to the cable and then working the cable stitches from the wrong side the way they present. So if it's a Purl stitch, pearl it. And if it's in its stitch, did it okay In this section of the video, we're going to work our last arm hole shaping decrease, which, since I'm doing size three sorry size small will be the 3rd 1 So you see that here. So I've needed one stitch and then done my double decrease, and then we're also going to do our next shaping. So we're going to start the next shaping decrease. You can see here that there has been three double decreases one to, and I just worked the third. And now what we're going to dio is next along until we get close to our cable. So some of the other sizes you will actually do more harm whole shaping decreases before you start the next week shaping decreases. So be sure to follow the pattern. So here we're getting close to the cable. And once we work so that we're within three stitches of the cable marker, we're going to S S K and knit one slip the marker and then we're going to work the first half of the cable so that the two Purl stitches and then this is going to be a cable cross . So we need to get our cable needle work Fist first cable cross Justus, you've been doing where you hold three to the back of the work net three from your left hand needle and then in it the three from the cable in the middle. No, really slipped those Each is back to the left hand needle. If you like. We'll work them directly from the cable needle net three and then here, instead of continuing the row. What, you're going to dio his turn your work and work the wrong side. So now we're just working the left front, the left front because it's worn on the left side of your body. Even though if you look at it, um, if someone is looking at you, it's on there, right? But we call it the left front. So you're going to work? These, um, cable stitches says. We've said before in pattern and then continue to work the rest of the left front from the wrong side. And here I'm just showing you how it looks from the front. So you see our cable cross now. The rest of the stitches of the row will become the right front, and we'll put those on holder. While we worked the left front stitches 7. Left front neck shaping and cable cross: in this video. We're continuing to work on the left front. So here you can see that we've had 12 three Armel decreases. So since this is size small, we're finished with the arm hole decreases. So what, we're going to dio it's just knit first section of the left front and on the last right side row you may remember that we did our first next shaving decrease. So when we get to that to that spot and show you there is that first decrease and since this is only the second row after that decrease, we're not going to do another net decrease just yet. We're just going to knit thes ditches and then we're going to work our cable. I was just half of the cable since we're just doing the left front, I have slipped the marker and I'm working Purl stitches and then the net stitches. Net stitches. Sorry of the cable, and you can see here that I just did the cable cross on the last right side row. But remember that since we're now working back and forth, I've already done one row after the cross. I did a wrong side row so I could now mark my cable cross as being the row below the the row on the needles. So I've put my removable stitch marker in this ditch just below the stitch that's on the needle. And then that will tell me when it's time to do the next cable cross. So here I'm turning And remember to pull this first stitch fairly snug, because you it helps dio keep a nice, neat edge because that edges self finished, we're not gonna add any finishing edge like ribbing or anything afterwards. So we're working the wrong side of the cable and here I'm just showing you what that looks like. And then we'll continue working the wrong side of the left front until we get to the end. I have slipped the marker and I'm continuing to work the wrong side of the left front. Now, in this section we've finished that last wrong side row worked another right side row up to point where we now need to do another neck decrease because the neck decreases air every four rows. So there are just on my S S K neck decrease worked once did. So you work three stitches to three stitches before the cable marker so that you have two stitches to do your decrease and then one stitch before the cable. And here you see that I have four rows from the last cable cross, so it's not time to do another cable cross yet. So I'm just going to net those cable stitches and then turn the work back to the wrong side , and we're going to continue with the left front. Wrong side. Now this next video, we've finished the wrong side row gone back to the right side, and you can see it's just been too rose since our last next shaping decrease. So we're not going to do another next shaping decrease yet. But the cable there has been the came across and five stitches. Sorry, five rows since then, so this is now our sixth row, and it's time to work. Another cable cross. Remember that six throw means just that it does not mean six rows between crosses. It means across every sixth row. So here, we're going to do the came across. Just is we're We've normally been doing it. Um, we hold three stitches to the back for the left front and then in it, the three stitches on the left hand needle. Now that's the end of the row. But that's fine, because I'm going to work these next three stitches that were held and that those three will become the new end of the row. So here we've done our cable cross can see that, and then we'll just turn and, um, continue to work the left front with the next wrong side, bro. 8. Begin right back and place left back stitches on holder: OK in this video, we've actually finished the front and we're now going to the bath. So we've placed the back stitches on a needle. Here they are. And remember that we never even really started the back. We did the first row of the front and the arm hole decreases and then turned and just worked the fronts dishes. So what we're going to do is we're going to join a new piece of yarn and then we're going to work this first row of the back exactly the same way that we did the first row of the. So you get one and then we're going to place three stitches on the needle knit wise and the Net three together. Now, since we've joined a new yarn, that first stitch is going to want to loosen up. So don't worry about that. Just tighten of a little bit and remember to leave about a six inch tail or so when you join the new yarn so that you'll have enough length to work fiend in later on when you're finishing your top. So we're just going to go ahead and mithi stitches once again. This is exactly the same as we did the front. Here's the six inches. So your entail that I was talking about when you joined the new yard. So we're going to continue to work the back. Justus. We were to the front and in this section of the video, we've come to the cable and done our first next shaping decrease. And once again, we're going to Now, after we've done half of the cable and the cable cross, we're going to turn and work the right side of the back only. But here what I'm going to do is show you how to take the remainder of the stitches from the row and put them on a holder in this case, a length of waste yarn. So I'm using a yarn needle threaded with a bulky length of yarn just because it helps to hold these stitches. Um, better without allowing them to stretch out without allowing them to close up too much. Um, you could actually use a doubled length of ah of a thinner yarn if you wanted to. Um, but anyway, so I'm just placing them rather carefully on this yarn needle so that I don't split the stitches and then pulling the waste young through a few stitches at a time. So if you kind of slipped, the are needle underneath a knitting needle. You see that there's a little bit of a space where it makes it easier to slide the stitches from the knitting needle onto the are needle. So now all of my stitches for the left back are on this piece of waste yarn. And once again, if I was working on the front, I would do the exact same thing. But this would be the right front instead of the left back. So here this end, you see the arm hole decreases. I remember that there will be one more arm hold decreased left so that when you go back to working this part of the back, you'll need to do one more arm hold decrease. This is a size s so we've done too. And we will need to do one more 9. Hold shoulder stitches place left back stitches on needle and work first row: here. We finished our right back, which is exactly the same as the left front. So you would follow the same process if you're working on your front. So what I'm going to do is count the neck decreases to make sure I have the right number. Now, if you count along, you might notice that there are 11 neck decreases and for size small, there should actually be 10. And that's because after I did this sample, I realize that the neck and armholes were too deep. So I ended up ripping back, um, four rows ending up with 10 decreases and 17 stitches. Not 16 as you see here. So now what I'm going to do is transfer the shoulder stitches onto a length of waste yarn to uses a holder. That's what I'm doing here. You can see that I'm passing the tip of the are needle carefully into each stitch, making sure that I don't split the yarn. And then once I have all of these stitches on the waste yarn, just be careful because we just did a cable cross, too. So make sure that you get each of those stitches on the waste yarn And then what I'll dio is kind of spread the stitches out a little bit and then tie the waste yarn loosely so that the stitches don't fall out. I see that I've done the same thing with the corresponding stitches from the front, and so those stitches will be ready to join the shoulders. I'm going to join them using a three needle bind off. Or, if you prefer, you could have bound off those stitches and then just sown the shoulder seam. So here, what I'm going to do is place my held left backs dishes back onto my knitting needle. Now, this would be the same process if you were still working on your front for the right front . So what I'm doing is I'm sliding the stitches onto the tip of the needle and then moving the stitches down the needle a few at a time. As you're doing this, try to be careful not to split the stitches with your needle, but put the needle tip through the center of each stitch. Um, try to avoid splitting the waste yarn with a needle, but if you do, then what you'll find is when you try to remove the waste yard, it will catch on the needle. And then what you'll need to do is just very carefully snipped the waste yarn so that it comes free of the needle. Um, so once all of the stitches are moved down the needle to the cable, if you're using ah, circular needle, the stitches will become looser, and it will be easy to remove the waste yarn. But if you're using a straight needle, you might find that they need the stitches. Get very snug because you still have the waste yarn there inside each stitch. And now you're trying to put the needle in there, too. So if you find that they're too tight to manipulate easily than you can also carefully snipped the waste yarn after the stitches are are on the needle and pull the waste yarn out of the stitches a few at a time as you're working. So here I've slid the stitches down to the cable of the needle, and I pulled out the waste yarn easily, and now I'm ready to start working on my left back or, if you're still working on your front, it would be your right front. Okay? And now I'm ready to do the first row of my left. Back or right front. They're exactly the same. I'm going, Teoh. Okay, A new length of yarn and join the yarn. Now, remember, this first row is a cable cross row, so we have a little bit of maneuvering to do here. I'm going to take three the 1st 3 stitches of the row. Come on, my cable needle and hold them into the front of the work. And then I'm going to knit the next three stitches, which will become the 1st 3 stitches of the row. No, leave about a six inch length of yarn, um, loose so that you'll have enough length to weave in when you're finished. And then you go ahead and knit for three stitches from the cable needle so your cable cross is done send. You can now continue with the rest of the row. Now, remember, on this first row we work our first next shaping decrease. So once you finish the cable unit, one stitch after the cable and then what you're going to want to dio is your first next shaping decrease, which on this side it's going to be a knit two together. See, this is the S s k on the right, back or left front. So now we're going to do a knit two together and we've worked to that first, next shaping decrease. And then what Will dio is work to the end of the row. And remember that this row also includes the last arm hole shaping decrease. So once we get to the last four, stitches will also work that decrease. So you can see that I've placed my Keitel cable needle through the cable just toe have a place for it to hang out while I'm working. Um, now here We're getting close to the end of the row. This is our last four stitches. So what I'm going to do now? So here you can see the first to arm hole decreases. And since this is the size small, this one that I'm working now will be the final arm hole decrease. So I slipped three stitches to the needle to the right hand needle and then knit all three of them together from my decrease. And now I've completed the first row of the left back for the right front 10. Three needle bind off: Okay, we're now ready to do a three needle bind off. I've actually placed my held stitches back on needles, and I'm holding the two parts of the shoulder to be joined. Parallel and I've turned the top inside out. So you want the right sides facing each other in the wrong sides facing out. And I'm using the long yarn tail from one of the shoulders. I insert my right hand needle into the first stitch on each needle, knit them together we will do it again. First sitch on the front needle first itch on the back needle knit them together So we just keep. And then what? And then what I dio is past the for a stitch on the needle over the second stitch and that binds one stitch off so we'll do the whole thing again in it. The first journey each needle together and then take the first stitch that remains on the right hand needle and pass it over the second and we found off another stick. Now, this is definitely, rather fiddly work. You want to use your fingertips to keep the stitches near the tips of the needles, but not too near because you don't want them to fall off the tips of the needles. So sometimes it's helpful toe use needles that are not too slippery. Um, Teoh help you keep the stitches in the position on the needle that you want them, which is close to the tip but not so close that the stitches will fall off. So it definitely does take a little practice To do this. You're having a little trouble with it and just go slowly. And it's also important to keep your attention from being too tight, because if you pulling the stitches really tightly and then you're trying to get them off the needles, what will probably happen is that you'll be tugging on the stitches and then they'll suddenly come off and you might have another stitch fall off that you did not want to lose . So if you do find that you have a stitch that fell off a needle, just take a deep breath and pick it up with a needle carefully and put it, But with the needle tip and, um, sometimes you it's best to use the right needle tip, pick it up and then place it back on the on the correct left hand needle tip. So I'm working along here. I've reached the cable so you can see that the stitches here are net from the wrong side. That's the Pearl column of the cable, and you're just going to work those exactly the same way as the other stitches. So you might notice here that I am running out of yarn. My yarn tail is actually going to be too short to finish binding off all of the shoulder stitches, so I'm actually going to join another piece of yarn to finish them. But I won't show you that will go to the other shoulder. So here we have our other shoulder and we're going to do the same thing we've placed. He held stitches on needles. I have actually this time have some of the stitches on a double pointed needles, and the other one's on. A circular needle on the double pointed needle is is would. And once again, if you are having any trouble with the stitches slipping off the tip of the needle, it might be wise to try wouldn't needles because they they're not as slippery as the metal tips So I started with my 1st 2 stitches in my yarn tale, which is a longer yarn tail this time, so make sure that you ah, when you break the r and cut the aren't after you've finished the left front or right front or the one of the back sections. Leave a nice long yarn tail couple of feet long, maybe even longer, because you can always trim the yarn if you get started and you find that the life is getting in your way. But it really is a nuisance to have to add another length of yarn just to finish your three needle. Bind off so you can see that I'm continuing to knit the first stitch on each needle together by putting the needle tip knit wise into the front needle into the stitch on the front needle and then into the stitch on the back needle. Carefully walk the stitches towards the tips of the needle with your fingers as you're working, and then you pass the first stitch on the right hand needle over the second stitch on the right hand needle to bind off this ditch. Now this will always leave you with one stitch on the right hand needle, and then I'll just keep repeating the same process. Now, if you should be interrupted as you're halfway through this, um, you do want to be careful to set your work down in such a way that the stitches are not going to fall off the needles, so you might want to actually moved the stitches on the two needles held parallel a little bit further away from the tip. And then that single stitch that's on the right hand needle you can even place temporarily on the tip of one of the other needles. Just because if you have one stitch on a needle, then it's not going toe the stitches. Not going to hold the needle in place very well. And if you if you dropped your work or put it down sideways than the stitch would come out , so here I'm showing you. See, I've dropped one of the stitches by accident, so just stop. Make sure that your back stitches are are not close to falling off because you only want to have to deal with one drop stitch at a time, and then you use your needles to pick up the loop. That was the dropped stitch and then carefully past the stitch in the road below over it, which restores that dropped a stitch and then you can continue with your bind off. You're going to continue this process until you reached the last two stitches on the two needles. Find off the second to last ditch and then here we are. You're left with one stitch on the needle. You can see that the with E three needle bind off seem is running there along the wrong side of your shoulder. So now to bind off normally, what you would do is take the loose end and pass it through the last, the last stick. But instead I'm going to have you just draw that. And through is you see me doing here, and that is a slightly more neat finish because the traditional way of doing it you actually are adding an extra. So now we've finished our three needle bind off seem, and all that remains is to weave in the ends neatly 11. Weaving in ends: and now we're going to weave in some of our ends. So this is the end under one arm that came from joining a new yarn to work the back, and you can see that there's a slightly looser stitch at the bottom of the under arm, which we're not going to worry about. So the way that I weave these ends is to take the needle, can pass it under died a diagonal row of the pearl, bumps on the wrong side, the top, and then I'm doing that for four or five stitches and then changing direction and doing another diagonal. So the changing direction several times is what is what will keep the end anchored firmly so that it won't work loose. And as I passed the needle tip under those pearl bumps, I'm being fairly careful toe either go under just the bump, or in some cases you can actually split the yarn of the bump. And that's called skimming for this particular yarn that it works better to just go under the entire strand of yarn. So now I'm going to clip that, and then we'll move on to a different part. Some of our top. So here we have the front or back. Um, you have a couple of yarn ends there and what I'm going to do in this case, his work them into the wrong side of the top, but also reinforced the V neck a little bit. So I'm being careful here to go along the edge of the of the wrong side of the front and make sure that I'm not going to be making any stitches that will show on the right side. So I'm moving a little further down here to the edge of the cable. And then, as I showed you before working back in the opposite direction and now here I'm going to the other side of the V neck, and I'm taking just a couple of stitches at a time here because I want to make sure that I'm placing them so that they won't show on the right side and also to help reinforce the front. So here have gone back to the other side of the V neck, and this will help reinforce the Levine. I can keep it from separating, but I don't want to actually place stitches across the Wien exit will show. I just wanted to reinforce the, um, the edges of the of the left and right front or back that are already there. And now I'm going to once again move on a diagonal, passing the needle under the pearl bumps and heading away from the opening of the neck. I'll do that in a couple of different directions, and that will keep the yarn end from working loose. And then once I do that, I will make sure that my last pass of the needle is aimed away from the neck opening. And here I've actually picked up for five stitches, the pearl bumps and on the back side of the cable, it's actually easier to work in the yarn ends because since there's the cable crosses, you don't need to worry as much about any any stitches with the end of the yarn showing on the right side. But it's always a good idea to turn your work to the right side and check every now and then to make sure that you don't see any stitches from the yarn showing. And then when you cut the R and Leiva, who leave at least 1/2 an inch tail to make sure that doesn't work itself out. And now here we've finally come to our shoulder seams and we do have several ends to work in there and here. I'm going to show you what to do with those loose stitches at the end of the scene, which you'll sometimes get now you can actually take thes. You can try toe, take up the slack by using a knitting needle or a tapestry needle to, um to tighten those stitches and then move the slack into the stitches next to it in the road. But that is very tedious, and a lot of times it's very difficult to get the our intention. Even so, what I'm doing here is I'm actually starting to weave my end in, um, heading away from the edge of the shoulder seam. And now I am passing the needle under the pearl bumps and heading back towards the edge. And then what? And then what I'm going to do is I'm actually going to catch that Luke, that slack extra yarn from the stitch, and I'm actually going to tack it down as I'm working in my end. So I have passed the yarn through that loop, and now I'm working the needle back under the pearl bombs heading away from the show, their edge pulling that loose loop tight and pulling it away from the edge. I'm going to do the same process again and, um, now in the shoulder seam, you can pass the yarn under the pearl bumps of the fabric. You can also use the stitches of the seam itself and pass the yarn and under those so five on a couple of more passes to secure the yarn. And now I'm going to go ahead and snip the end, making sure that it's well away from the edges of the shoulder. And you can see we have a nice neat finish on the right side, and that loose stitch on the edge has been pulled in, so it looks a lot neater. Then there's are wrong side and we're finished