Mandala Magic: Create Your Own Starburst Mandala | Wendy Brookshire | Skillshare

Mandala Magic: Create Your Own Starburst Mandala

Wendy Brookshire, Artist, Designer and Illustrator

Play Speed
  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x
11 Lessons (1h 19m)
    • 1. Mandala Intro

      1:29
    • 2. Materials

      5:58
    • 3. WarmUpSquare

      3:16
    • 4. WarmUpCircles

      13:02
    • 5. WarmUpStarburst

      12:01
    • 6. DrawPt1

      4:09
    • 7. DrawPt2

      10:36
    • 8. DrawPt3

      11:27
    • 9. Inking

      3:38
    • 10. Color

      9:39
    • 11. Painting

      4:06

About This Class

The word mandala loosely translates to “circle”. Traditional mandalas are beautiful symbols that represent the universe and the circle of life. Making a mandala is a very individual process, and there are countless approaches to their creation.

This class will cover my process of creating these mandalas. The method we’ll be using for creating these mandalas is entirely by hand, so the supplies you need are simple and readily available. In our warm-up exercises, I’ll be walking you through some easy methods for drawing geometric shapes, which we’ll use in our final artwork.

For this beginner class I’ll be drawing the entire mandala for you to follow along with me, but you are free to experiment and use these techniques to create your own patterns. After our artwork is drawn, I will be reviewing some color concepts and giving you tips on how to create a beautiful color palette to apply to your mandala.  No real experience is needed, just some familiarity with using rulers and measurements, simple tools like a compass, and your favorite coloring medium.

At the conclusion of the class, you’ll end up with a unique piece of hand drawn art that’s ready for you to frame, give as a gift, or even sell. I hope you enjoy this class and leave with a new art-making technique to add to your creative arsenal!

Transcripts

1. Mandala Intro: the theme word Mandela loosely translates to circle traditional Mandela's are beautiful symbols represent the universe in the circle of life. Making a manila is a very individual process, and there are countless approaches to their creation. My name is my neighbor chair, and I'm a designer and illustrator from Colorado. Today I'll be teaching you my own technique for creating hand drawn medulla artwork that reflects the traditional structure of radio symmetry, balance and color. Harmony for this beginner class will be creating a starburst. Mandela entirely by hand, will demonstrate the basic construction of the geometric elements and how to combine these into a visually pleasing form. And Hermann dolla after artwork is drawn. I'll be reviewing some color concepts and giving you tips on how to create a beautiful color palette to apply to your Mandela. No real experience is needed. Just some familiarity with using rulers and measurements, simple tools like a compass and your favorite coloring medium. I'll be asking you to upload your preliminary drawings as well as your final artwork for everyone to see what you've created. Even if you follow right along with me, your art will look different than mine. So I encourage everyone to share and learn from each other. At the conclusion of the class, you'll end up with a unique piece of hand drawn art. So whether your goal is to increase your creativity, provide some enlightenment or simply create intriguing and delicate artwork, I think you'll really enjoy the Mandela making process. 2. Materials: Now we're gonna talk about the materials you'll need to complete the project for the class . The first thing you will need is a few sheets of card, stock or paper. I prefer card stock, and there's a few reasons for that. We're gonna be working with a compass quite a bit. And card stock is really nice because it holds the point of the compass really well. So when you get your compass in there, it holds it pretty well so you can make your circles sometimes paper slips a little bit, and paper also has a tendency to rip so card stock won't rip. It also leaves a nice little debate right there so that when you need to make another circle, you can go and you can find the little debit and you can just make another circle and you know that they're just gonna be perfectly centered like that. And this is really important. We were making Mandela's because everything is about that concentric geometry, and we want to be able to make sure that our circles are perfectly centered and this really helps. The compass that I like to use to make these circles is this one right here. And I like it because it has this little wheel right here that turns it makes very precise movements. So if you just want to open your accomplice just a little bit, you just turn the wheel and it just opens it just a little bit. This one also has a nice sharp point. So when it makes those little when it makes your little hole right here, you can go back and find it pretty easily. So that's really good. That's a really good tool. Tohave. We're also getting into pencil. I like to use mechanical pencil because it has a nice sharp point, and the point is always consistent. The line is really consistent with that. You're also going to need an eraser. Ah, lot of times I just use the race around the enemy pencil cause it's nice and small. Um, if not, I'll grab this repair mortar race. I'll grab this little pen style eraser. You're gonna need to have a ruler. Now This one is a clear ruler, which I really like to use, and that's because it makes measuring pretty easy. Um, you can measure just along these lines and um, and create borders really easily. Um, and also you have so many lines going on in here usually that it's kind of nice to be able to see what's happening. When you're drawing. You can see what else is going on. So I like to use the clear ones. Now. This one's really nice, because it has this little L shaped right here, and we're gonna be making some squares, and we're gonna be making some plus signs to start that something's off with. So it's really nice to have something that creates that perfect 90 degree angle. If you don't have one of these, it's OK. You can use just a piece of card stock and just use the corner of it. And that will give you a perfect 90 degree angle to make our squares and are plus signs when we need it. The next thing will be needing is some colored pencils or some colored pens. Now this isn't your final color. This is just used for the warm up exercises. Next thing you'll need is ah, thin pen for your final artwork. Now I like to use my Cron's. They come in different wits this one happens to be an 01 which is the wit that I like to use, um ano to oran 03 also work. I prefer to keep them small because when we have our artwork finished, there's a lot of lines happening. And if your if your marker is too big, then those lines, the counter spaces between those lines are really gonna fill up and you want to keep those clear so you can put color in those lines and not have a bunch of black blobs. And they are waterproof, which is really helpful because the color that I like to use is water based color. I use watercolor or more often I usually use these Inc Now this is actually fountain pen ink. Um, I have suburb brands of this that I like to use, and I prefer to use this over water color because I think the color is just more saturated . It's a very rich color, and I just I really like the way that it reacts on the watercolor paper that I use. The next thing you're gonna need is some tracing paper. You can use it on a roll we're out of a tablet Probably just need one or two sheets. Any kind of tracing paper will do, and then you'll need to choose your final artwork paper. So what I'm gonna use is watercolor paper. It goes really well with the ink that I use the English really, really nice on this paper, Um, and is also kind of a heavy card stock. So if you decide to frame this, give it a ZA gift. It's kind of a nice, substantial feel when you're done with your artwork and you put a lot of work into this. So you wanted to be in kind of a nice paper. If you're using marker color pencil, you can use a Bristol board or even a nice fresh sheet of the card stock that we're gonna be using to draw on, so any of those will work. The last thing that I like to use is a light table. Now this one's just a small one. This is plenty big. Um, we use this for our final artwork. So when we have our artwork completely drawn and we need to transfer it to our final paper , I use this so I can see the lines through it. And then all I have on my final paper is that the lines that I'm making with my little pen , we will have any pencil on here. We don't have any eraser on here. It's just the final pen, so this is really handy. If you don't happen to have one of these, you could use a window. If you have a glass table, you can put a light bulb underneath a glass table. So now that we have all of our materials ready, I think we are set to get going on our warm up exercises. So we'll start that in the next video on. I'll see you guys, then. 3. WarmUpSquare: mandala geometry is concentric, meaning that all of the parts are situated around a common centrepoint we're gonna practice . This was just a few simple exercises. So you'll need for this one is just your card stock and your ruler, Andrew L or triangle. If you have one in your pencil, the first thing we're gonna do is make a square. Now, I generally put my Mandela's into a square, and I'll draw the square border first. You can also use a circle as your outer containing shape for a mandala. But we're gonna draw square just to start off with here. Using your l draw two arms of your square and then using your ruler can measure out the same distance on each arm. So I'm just gonna go four inches here. So I measure out four inches there and then I measure all four inches on this arm and then using the line that you just created an arm of your l. You can just create your third side and then do the same down here and that will create your square. Now you'll notice on this one as well as we start drawn. The Mandela I'm not being very careful about making sure that all the points meet up exactly. They overlap. And that's fine because this is just a rough drawing. This is just practice. But when we do our rough drawing, it's gonna be the same, and there's gonna be lines all over the place. So when I go and make my border, that's when this ruler comes in really handy. And you can use the measurements on here and just create a border with of your choice. This will just be 1/4 of an inch, and you can just go right around here and make your Boerner quarter of an inch. Now, of course, there's other ways to do this. If you don't have a clear ruler, all you have to dio his measured down on each side 1/4 of an inch and then connection marks . It's still very simple and possibly maybe a little bit more accurate than doing it with this clear ruler. But that's the way that I do it. So now you have your square, and now what we're gonna do is we're gonna find the center point of this square, so all you do is you just take your corner points and you draw necks through your square, and that's going to give you the center point of that square. Now. To test this, you can take your compass and you can put it on the center point right where there's two lines. Cross put your pencil right on that edge, Draw a circle and see how well it lines up. And that's pretty good are square is actually square, which is a nice property for a square tohave. 4. WarmUpCircles: for this next warm up exercise, we're gonna get a little bit more complicated and a little bit more fun. So what you'll need for this is a fresh piece, part stock and your compass. And what we're gonna do here is I'm gonna set my compass at about an inch and 1/2 or so. It doesn't have to be precise, but this is one of those instances where you want to keep your compass the same measurement , so find a measurement. This will be about an inch and 1/2 radius, which will give us about a three inch diameter circle. Go ahead and just make your first circle. Now you notice that I am using my compass on my light table, which I normally wouldn't dio, because I don't want to damage my light table. But this is very thick card stock, and the compass point actually isn't going all the way through. So that's just to know. You might want to make sure that you're protecting your surface from your compass point. This paper is so thick that it's not going to go all the way through, so make your circle like that now with your pen and your pencil your pencil in your ruler Find the center point of your circle, which is pretty easy because there is a dot right there, so going right from your compass dot a drawn line right through the circle. Now, using your l Do you want to start from that dot and you want to make a 90 degree angle off of that circle? So again, using my plastic see through Ruler, this one's really easy cause I can actually line up this line on any of these cross lines. So that's 90 degrees right there. So you want to end up with a little target shape just like this. When you get done with that, take your compass again, which is still said it the same measurement and in each of these four points, create a new circle. And if you'll notice as I use my compass, I find the point that I need a little bit off. Find that point and then I just use this little top thing here pressing down. So I get a nice dark line and they just twirl it around, and that's pretty good way to make a relatively smooth circle So you want to go all the way around your circle, your first circle and make these little overlapping shapes right here. Okay, Now you end up with this. The next thing we want to do is you want to add some dimension to this. So this is a really great practice from when we do our final Mondal a work. This is a technique that I use all the time. And I always add dimension to my lines just to give me a little well, there to put color into. So if I just had solid lines, I would just kind of have big, blocky shapes. But this way you can see on this one here, I create these double lines everywhere. I create a line usually just my circles. I create these double lines so that I have area in their toe add color. So we're gonna do that here. So find your center point here, and then adjust your compass. Now, on this, when you can either go bigger or smaller, I usually make my bigger ones for So I go smaller here and come in about 1/4 of an inch or so. And this is your new measurement. So you want to do that in the centre one and then you want to go all the way around the edge and do it for each of the outer circles as well. So just find your original point Original hole. This is where the card stock comes in handy because that hole is still there and it's not gonna rip and just make your circle. As you can see, even with this very simple shape, we're making your lines build up relatively quickly. So there's kind of a lot going on here. So that's all we need the compass for. Okay, so now, using the circles that we just created, we're gonna practice this over under method of the intertwining that I like to do in my mind dollar design. So if you look at this one, you'll notice looking at one of thes rings like this little green ring right here. What I've done is they intertwine them with all of the other rings that they touch. So it's going under the purple one. And then over the first gold, one under the second gold, one back over the purple and on on on all the way around. And what this does is it creates a really kind of optical illusion of these interlocking rings. And Mandela's a really nice for meditation, kind of losing your thoughts into them. So when you add something like this, it really gives your eyes something toe look at and toe work on, um and it really adds a lot of interest. So that's what we're gonna practice here. So what we're gonna do is we're just gonna do this with color to show you how this is done . So what I usually dio is I will start with one of my rings. So let's start with this top one hair and I always start in the same place, so kind of keep in mind here, we're going to start at the same place, and I'm gonna untaes this cause sometimes it's easier for me to move the artwork around as I work on it. So we're gonna start with one of your colors and we're just gonna color this in. We're gonna leave all of the little overlapping shapes for now just so we can erase those later because it's easier to see with color. So I'm gonna start with my top ring, and I'm gonna start right here. So I'm gonna start in this big area right here, and I'm just gonna color this in like this, Okay? Now you want to stop when you get to the next ring. So as soon as you come to one of these intersections, you want to stop, and then you need to start deciding if you're gonna start over or under. What I mean by that is, if this if you think of these a solid rings is this ring gonna go under this one, or is it going to go over and I'm going to start by going over? And that means that my next one is under and then over and under an over and under. So it just alternates like that. So I'm going to start going over. So if this ring is over, this one is just gonna cover that intersection. So when you come to the next intersection, this is an under intersection. So I'm gonna leave that blank, and I'm gonna color this in. That one was under. So this next one is gonna be over now. This is tricky, cause it's right next to one. So just be careful. This 1st 1 is over, so you can just go right up to that other ring. So is going over. Now, This one I fill in the rest of this one. Since this one was under, this one's gonna be over. And that means the last one is under. Okay, now I'm gonna turn this just kind of keep it straight in my head. So I'm basically working on the same area, so I'm gonna pick my second color. So starting at the same place, I'm just gonna fill in this solid portion here, Okay? Now, you can look at this one to remind yourself, but I remember that I went over on my 1st 1 So for my first intersection is gonna be over. The next intersection is under, so that one will be blank. Fill in that big spot, and then my next intersection is gonna be over. So I will fill that in, and as you can see, the color start to touch where this pattern really starts to be cool and works out because I'm I need to go under here. But I'm automatically going under because of the orange part goes over. So the blue is just gonna continue on the other side because that's going over there under here. So this one is over and the next intersection is already filled in just good, because that's gonna be an under one time going under the orange. Okay, I'm gonna turn it and I'm gonna do it again. So I start right here and let's just fill this one in. I remember that I went over my 1st 1 So the first intersection is an over. This next one is under fill in the next big one. The next intersection is gonna be over and then I go under that blue pick it up on the other side. This one is over and I end where it goes under the blue for the next one. When it turned it again started the very same place. Just fill this one in a swell. So my 1st 1 goes over, we'll leave that empty right there because that's gonna go under. My next section goes over and then under the orange to the next big section. This one isn't over, so I'll just go right over that, and then the next section I come to is under, which is convenient because it goes right under the orange. Now all we have left is to fill in that center circle. So I'm gonna grab another color, uses bright pink, and this one, you don't really have to worry about too much because for the outer circles already determined what's gonna happen with this one? But you can see that it's exactly the same over under pattern that we did on these. It's the pattern is a little bit different because of these are more intersecting, but the over under works. So you've got your going under here, over here, under over, under over under over and it always works out every time. It's like magic. So with your last color and this doesn't have to be really me or precise, which is doing this so we can visually see how this little illusion is going toe workout. Now, when we're working on our final piece, we do color last, and so we're actually going to be doing this just on paper with our black pen, so it takes a little bit more concentration to figure that out. So that's why we're practicing it now so we can visualize it. And there you have it. So if you look at this closely, you can see the illusion of every ring intersecting with the next ring going over or under it, and it creates this really kind of neat puzzle effect. So keep this in mind when we get to our final artwork and we have all of our lines and it comes time to pulling out the overs and unders. I usually use the tracing paper at this stage, and I'll put it over my drawing, and I start using my color just like we did here to pull those out, to help me visualize it a little bit. 5. WarmUpStarburst: So the next exercise we're going to do is we're gonna create a starburst. I recall the title of this class is creating a starburst mandala. So we're gonna create that starburst. Now, this isn't gonna be our final when this was just practice to show you guys how to do it. So the first thing that we need to do is we need to create a plus sign approximately the center of our paper. So using your l or another sheet of card stock, make a right angle and then just pull those arms out to create a plus sign. Now, the next thing we want to dio to build our star is to set the center radius and the outer radios. So what you need to do is you kind of need to decide what shape of star that you want to make. If you look at these two stars here, this one up here, the outer circle that you create is going to be the points of these stars. The inner circle you create is going to be this center point right here in the center point , the inter point of these stars right here. So the distance between those two circles is going to determine the shape of your star. So if you see on this one, you can imagine this the circle right here in a circle right here. They're very close together, and that gives you a star with kind of short arms. And that's the one that I did here on this one. So you can see this is a pretty short arms star because all I wanted to do was use it as a central medallion on this one. So that shape worked great for that one. This star down here has much longer arms. And I did that by creating a smaller inner circle and a larger outer circle. There's much more distance between this two circles here, so that creates a much longer arm to your star. And this is the one that I'm gonna be creating now. And I'm also gonna be using later when we create our actual mandala, because my idea for that is to create interlocking circles around the star. So I want to have those go over and under the arms of the star. So I need some. I need some length to do that with. So this is the one that we're gonna create right now. So using your compass, either one is fine. You can do the outer or the inner circle first, let's do the outer. When first something's already set. Just find your center point of your plus sign right there. Me? This is just a tad bigger and then create the outer border of your star. Now adjust your compass so you will create your inner border. Remember, if you want long arms, there needs to be quite a distance between the outer edge, the outer circle in the inner circle. So I'm gonna put my inner circle right here. Now What we want to dio is we need to create more of these little radiating arms. You can see we have four arms right now and counting these right here. 1234 But I want to make an eight point star. So to make an eight point star, I actually need 16 radiating arms coming out. Eight of these arms create the spine of each star point the remaining arms create the division between the points. So I want to create 16 lines radiating out from here and they all have to be completely even so, there's a couple ways to do this. If you have a protractor lying around like this one, you can use that and you can just use your measurements and you confined your 45 degrees and then 22 a half degrees, and you can mark it like that. But there's a way that you can do it with your compass, which is kind of neat. And I actually usually just do this one because I usually don't have my protractor lying right there. So using your compass, well, it out so that it's just a little bit bigger than your outer circle. And then what you want to dio is on the inner circle, you'll see that that inner circle intersects with each of those four arms, those intersections or what we're gonna be using here. So you want to put your compass point right on one of those intersections and then on either side of that line, aiming about for the center of this section here, just draw a little arc on either side of the line. The move your compass to the next intersection of the small circle and the next line and just do the same thing and do that all the way around the circle. Just easier to do two lines at once. Just do it on each side of that intersecting line that your compass is on. And so, as you can see, we've created four little exes. Now, to make it a little easier on myself, I usually just draw just a little lines where they intersect. Just so when I'm drawing, it's a little quicker. And then just use your ruler and connect those lines those little dots you just made and just make sure that goes through the center of your circle in what we're doing is we're just bisecting each of these spaces. So we just bisected those 4/4 those four quadrants right there and now we have eight. Now, to make 16 we need 16 to make these stars. You just do the same thing over again. So you find each of these little intersections and then what you want to do is kind of aimed for halfway in between this little pie piece right here and just create your line and then do it over here and then just go to your next intersection. There should be a hole there. Could you just use it and create your next set of lines and do this all the way around again? There are much easier ways to do this, like on your computer. But when I create these mandalas, my intention is to do everything by hand just to get away from the computer. And I really like being able to do things like this that gives me a relatively precise measurement without having to rely on my computer. We just do it with a circle. So now, as you can see, the center bring, it gets a little muddled because there they're pretty close in and shape right there. But you can just kind of looking kind of find the center point there of each of your little X is that you just made. And then once again, just take the opposite ones, match him up, run it right through the center of your circle and you're going to end up with eight. Or Sorry, 16 suffer little sections here, and that's exactly what we're working on. Okay, so there you go, so you can work on tracing paper. Like I said, you can work right on that card stock if you like. Just sometimes it's kind of nice to work on a separate piece of paper so you can lift it off and not see all over the structural lines at first, Just so you can kind of see what you're making. So here we have our star skeleton. Really? And to make the actual star start with one of your points. I usually start with one on the outer edge here and just draw connecting line to the very next spinal. Just call these spines where it connects with the small circle. Okay? And I usually just go around and make my spy ings or make my star spines altogether. So I'll go from this point to the next small circle intersection with that spine? No, From here, you just go up to the next top line and just continue all the way around the circle. So if you're working from this point like I am and just drawing your lines down, just remember, you just skip every other one. So you just come around to this next one, go to your next intersection, okay? so I'll skip that one here, down to the intersection of the small circle and my radiating line. Skip one from here I go to the neighbouring intersection. Skip one, Start up here and skip one. Do this guy right here and now you have all of your star arms and it is a perfectly symmetrical star. Now, if you look at these, what I usually like to do is I like to keep my structural lines And that's because what I really enjoy doing is is coloring each side of the spine a different color. So it kind of gives it sort of a three dimensional effect. It almost looks like folded paper a little bit there. Um, when you have the two different colors and you can either do them with two very different colors like I've done here with the blue and the green or down here, I've done kind of a yellow Oakar on one side. And then I've been a lighter yellow on the other side. So this is a much more subtle version, but you can still see that there's a difference in variation, and you kind of get that three dimensional look. So to do that. I can just take my ruler or I do it freehand on my final. And I just draw back in the lines each one of these little spines here and now. We have much shorter lines in the side to connect the little points. So those inner points, you just go around and you just connect those and then you can take this away. You see that you have made a perfect little star. So that is what's gonna be the basis for Mandela when we start drawing it. So keep that in mind and you can practice making a couple stars and then we can get started in the next section. We're gonna jump right in and start making our mandala. See you then. 6. DrawPt1: Hi, everybody. Welcome back. We're now getting ready to start drawing are Mondal Oh, so which will needs a fresh piece of card stock? You'll need your ruler, your l your compass and your pencil. Now, as you can see, I've already started. I've drawn my outer square and I've drawn the starburst skeleton here. I suggest on this 1st 1 that you dio is you make your square or your outer circle relatively large. Now, a lot of times I work really small. You guys have seen the ones that I've shown his examples that are about 2.5 inch squares. Those are a little small to start with just because there's a lot of detail in there, and it's really hard to pick it out when you're starting that small. So I suggest going a little bit bigger. This is a five inch square. Sometimes I work five inch or six inch. It doesn't matter whatever you're comfortable with, so start with your square or your outer circle containing shape and get your starburst skeleton in place, starting from the very center of your square. And that's where I'm going to start so you guys can follow along or you can kind of branch out and do your own thing. Part of this is gonna be sped up so you don't have to watch me draw everything in real time . But I'll stop and explain what I'm doing. - Okay , Now we have our center Starburst in place, and we're ready to add some more elements to this for right now, I'm going to keep all my structural lines. But I may go back and start erasing them because as I get more of my skeleton of my mandala drawn thes things, you're gonna totally get in the way. So for right now it's OK, because I'm gonna use them as measuring points. But I very well may go back and start erasing some. So now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put a couple rings that go around the center to remember were working Concentric Lee. So everything is based off your center point. So I'm gonna start here and I'm gonna go around, and I'm gonna make some rings that the star can interact with. Now, as I'm doing this, I just draw over. I don't mind doing the over and under thing later because it's just it's just too much work to try to do it at this stage. So move your compass so that you can get a couple a couple good rings in here. I'm just gonna draw it right here. I'm gonna make mine. I don't know about that wide now I want to do to so I can really do some good over and under illusions. So I'm gonna open up my compass again and do another ring right here, and I mean it. Use approximately that same space and do my outer ring right here. Now, while I have my compass in place, I'm gonna put a big outer ring around here. So I'm gonna make that a double ring as well. I'm gonna go right to my edge because I wanted to touch my border. So I'm gonna go all the way out. You can check how good your square is at this point, and I'm gonna make that a double ring as well. Just so we have a little area in there to fill up with some color. Now you can quickly see what a mess that this is starting to be. So as we add more elements. It's gonna get a little more complicated to see where you're doing. But you just work through it, and when we get to our tracing paper stage, we can really start to pull some of these elements out. 7. DrawPt2: Okay, so now that we have our center Starburst drawn and the circles surrounding it, now it's time to pick out another element to draw. Now, I took a little break and I pulled on my tracing paper because I couldn't quite figure out where to go from next. So what I did was I just had a really rough sketch of what I have so far. So I have my starburst and I have a couple of these rings going around here and I have an outer ring, and what I think I want to do is I want to fill in some of the area between the Starburst arms here. So I'm going to start putting some circles there and see if I can pull kind of an interesting shape out. So what I'm gonna do, put that aside and I'm gonna take my compass and I'll find a spot that I want to create my centers of my next circles on. So I want them to be between the arms of the stars. So I think I'll just find that little point right there because it's consistent all the way around. So find a point. You can come up here if you want a different shape of circle or a different center of your circle and I'm just gonna choose that measurement right there and I'm just gonna draw a bunch of circles. Now, this is where it gets really messy. It's going to start to make it crazy, but it's all for good goes so then go to your next one. Actually, that circle intersex it right there perfectly. We start to see some fun geometry when you start doing this because your measurements all kind of start toe workout, it's very interesting. So you come over the next one and all the way around. Now, when I'm done with these, I'm going to add some dimension to it. So I'm gonna go ahead and fill out all of the circles around here, and then I'm going to go back and add dimension to it, and I might add another circle within. So I'm gonna go ahead and do that and you guys work on yours and we'll meet back up here. Now adjust your compass and using the same center point you just made, I had some dimension to your circles. - I'm gonna go around and add another circle. I'm not sure what I'm gonna use this for, but I kind of think a little guideline for something might be good. And I'm not gonna actually go all the way around because I don't think that I'm gonna be cutting my star with this circle. I really want my start to be whole. So what? I'm gonna use this somewhere up here in this circle that I have just created. So I'm gonna go around and just to kind of 1/2 circle here, as I mentioned before, you always want to keep this stage of your drawing, because what this is really good for is today we're making a Starburst, Mandela. But I could go back and use this and I could completely ignore my star. And I could use these shapes here and all these intersecting circles to make a completely different Mandela. And I don't have to draw anything again. I can just use the same shape. So even though it kind of looks like a headache right now, when you start to pull these things out, you'll release how many options that you have right here. So I'm gonna leave this the way it is, it's getting a little busy. I have these shapes here that are a little bit empty, so I'm just gonna add some lines here. So how I'm going to do that is gonna take my ruler. I'll use my center point to make my raise from, and I'm just gonna I'm just gonna take some measurements here along the edge to connect my lines to, so I'll just show you one, and then I'll do the rest. So I'm gonna dio 1/4 of an inch. So I'm just marking off every quarter of an inch until I get kind of too close to this one . I'm gonna do that on all sides, and then I'll keep my ruler here, and I go from my CenterPoint to the first mark that I've made. And I'm just gonna draw that right to that first shape because I don't want this going all the way. And I just wanted to stop it this shape. So I'm gonna do that like that, and I'm gonna do that all the way around. Okay, Now that you get to this point when all of your structure is in, now is the time to start pulling out the shapes that you want to see in your final mandala . Now, this takes a little bit of concentration, and it takes a little bit of time. But what I'm gonna dio is I'm gonna take my tracing paper, and I know that I went thes circles here. I know that I want my starburst and then I'm gonna look at these shapes that I've created here. Now, this is the main thing that I really need to look at because I can see everything else. But what happens in these circles here is what I really want to concentrate on. So I'm gonna take my tracing paper, and I'm gonna put it over there and I'm a do a little bit of sketching. I'm just gonna speed this up so you guys don't have to watch the whole thing, but I'll show you what I come up with. So I want you guys to do the same thing. Use, um, tracing paper and see what kind of shapes you can make from these things here. Now, because we have eight going around here, you can segment this and you can work on 1/4 or you can work on Justin Eighth, if that's easier than looking at the entire thing. So just segment it and look at one section and see what? See what comes out and keep in mind you wanna have some interaction with the circles and the star, so you want to have some over and under things happening there. Some integration there. These new circles that we made, you can either use the full circle or you can just use part of the circle is a structure. So go ahead and have some fun with that, and I'll meet you guys back here, okay? I'm starting to see a shape that I want to pull out of this. So, as you can see, I tried several different things here, and I'm actually gonna end up adjusting my drawing because what I'm seeing that I really like it is the star points come up here like this. And then I have these circles that I made that kind of come around like this, and I like the way they connect to my first ring here. So they go around here, but there's a very awkward sort of intersection right here where it's this ring plus the star plus this ring plus this ring that's a little too much. So I'm gonna take the this ring that we made here. So it's this ring right here that goes all the way around. It's the second ring we made, and I'm gonna add a little ring to the inside of it, and that's gonna be my new structure for that ring. So I'm gonna go ahead and do that and I do this all the time. I'll start to draw, and then once you really get into it, you see something that you really like. You just have to add one more shape, and now it'll work better for you. So to see that a little bit better, you could erase this upper line because we're not gonna be using that one 8. DrawPt3: So this stage is really the heavy lifting stage. This is the hardest part. Putting your tracing paper over here and sort of going through and pulling out all of your shapes and focusing on the interlocking and the interweaving that you want to dio It's a little bit difficult, so I'm gonna use a pencil. I think this is dark enough. I usually use a pen at this stage, but I'm gonna try a pencil this time. It needs to be darkened up so that when you place it on your light table to do your final drawing, you can see it through your thick card stock or watercolor paper. So that's why we want this stage to be relatively dark. So I'm going to start with a pencil because I have a feeling I'm gonna have to do a lot of erasing when I go through here. So just a side note at this stage. Ah, this is where I start doing everything by hand. I do this, uh, version by hand, and then I draw my final by hand, meaning I don't use the compass anymore. I don't use rulers anymore. This is all just me drawing it, That might seem a little bit backwards. I just choose to do it this way because I like the hand drawn look. And I use my tools, my rulers of my compass so I can get my measurements right. And I can get those circles toe look right. But from here on out, I just do it by hand. So it's not a perfect look. But if you look at something like this, just similar to the one I'm doing now, it looks pretty precise until you get up really close and then you can see that these lines are all made by hand. I think it just adds a little bit more human element to the peace. So from here on out, it's just me and a pencil on a pen. I don't use any of my tools anymore, So here we go. I am going to start with my star E. I have my starter. I'm gonna do my circles, and here I'm gonna go ahead and just start to choose my over and under just so it's a little easier you you see what that looks like? Okay, I'm gonna need a next one. I'm gonna do opposite, so I need to go under that one. Okay, so now I have my center, Starburst and my two rings, and I went ahead and just erased the bits that air underneath. So whether it was the star arm right here or up here, I just went ahead and erase those so I can really start to see that over and under. Things start to happen. I'm gonna go ahead and dive in and try to figure this part out. I'm gonna go back, and I'm gonna look at my drawing here, and this is the one that I kind of want to do. So I'm gonna fill out this whole circle here. So that's what I'm gonna concentrate on first. Doing this in little bite size chunks is the way to get this done and to make it so It it makes sense to you as you're going, I am just going to start. And I wanted to start. I might change this later, but I think I wanted to start right at the inner ring. So I'm just gonna draw one of them and see how it shakes out. Actually gonna draw too, so I can see the overlap. So now I've drawn all of my outer rings, so I'm gonna go back. I'm just gonna put this extra piece of card stock under here so I can see what I'm doing, and I'm going to go back and I'm gonna race the parts that I don't need, so that will start to become more clear. So I'm just gonna go around the edge and do that, So I'm just making each of these rings the same. So this one goes over here so this one will go over, and I'm just gonna go around and do that same thing. So these intersections are always a little tricky. It takes a lot of kind of going back and forth and figuring out what's there and what's not there and what you want to erase and what you want to keep. So this just takes a little bit of concentration to figure it out. That's why you concentrate on one section of the time. So right now I'm just gonna look at thes star points and I'm just gonna go around and I'm going to do all of the star points and the way that the circles cross underneath it. - Now that you got that part done, you can move on to the end of the circle if you haven't done that already. So for this end, over here, this one goes over. So I think I like this one to go under. So this one is gonna go under this ring right here. Way. So we've got some elements here, just some open space, and you can leave that open or you can add something else to it. I see these here and then I see these here. So what I'm gonna do is I am going to probably just freehand at this point, I can follow along. I'm gonna put some shapes in here, and I'm gonna think about what I want to put in here. I think I might just do a circle in there. It's a little bit too small, leaves your compass. So at this point, a lot of these elements are just kind of hand drawn if you have a circle temple that you can use that. But I think I might just go ahead and draw a little circle just to fill that up to add another little sparkle element in there. I need my compass for this part just to make it quicker. I'm gonna look at this, and I'm gonna fill in my outer border and these lines here. And then I'm gonna look and see what space I have left to fill in because I'm not gonna have much left. So I'm gonna do my borders. - Okay ? Now, you can see how far we've come with this mandala drawing. I would say that we're almost done with this. The only thing that I see that's a little disconnected is this area right in here is pretty open. There isn't really anything connecting the border shapes and the rays into here. So I am going to take a look at that and see what I can add. And you guys take a look at yours and see how it looks. This might be exactly where you want to stop, and that's perfectly fine as well. Um, sometimes if you get too many things, it's just it's a little too busy. But I want to add just a little bit more in there. And it might just be I'm thinking I might just put a dot right here on each one of them, each one of these star ends. So I think I'm gonna do that. And then I'm gonna see if there's something that I want to fill in here. I think from here I'm just gonna take this drawing, and now it's time to move on to our final drawing. 9. Inking: now we're ready to transfer are drawing on to our final art paper. So I did one extra step and you guys can do this if you feel it's necessary. I took my pencil drawing that we did together, and I created it in ink on tracing paper. So I just traced it over another sheet of tracing paper with ink. And the reason that I did this is because, as you can see, the pencils a little bit lighter than the ink. And even though I'm using a light table, it helps to have it as dark as possible. So I went This is dark as possible so I can see through my final watercolor paper. So when I'm tracing it, I can see all of those little lines. So the first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna take this onto our paper. I've cut my paper, so it's an inch larger on each side, and I'm gonna take a couple pieces of tape. And I just used washi tape because it's it won't tear your paper. So So take your ruler. And this is where your clear ruler really helps here, too, and you could line it up here on the edge of your paper, and then you can just take your drawing and put it exactly where you need it to be. So I made mine an inch larger on each side. So I'll just situate my drawing right here, and then I'm gonna take it. And now it's gonna have a perfect inch border on each side. And now we're ready to trace. So get your final paper and your final drawing taped together like this, and I'm going to start working on mine, and you guys could start working on yours, and then we'll meet up at the end and see how these turn out, and then we'll get ready to add some color. 10. Color: color is still one of my favorite parts of this process. It's a little intimidating at first, but we're going to go through and talk about a few techniques and tricks that will help you pick good color palettes for here. Mandalas. So I have a few basic rules that I like to stick to. What I'm designing. My color palette. I usually try to stick to three or four colors, really no more than that. It really muddles up the mandala design if you have too many colors going on, and it's really hard with that many colors to pick harmonious colors that go together. Another thing to keep in mind when you're choosing your color palette is your foreground and background. Now, on this one that we've looked at before, I've chosen darker, brighter colors as my foreground elements and for the background these negative spaces here that I kind of want to just fade into the background a little bit. I have chosen tents of the colors that I'm using within this mandala. It's really nice to have that differentiation between what you look at first, those really bright colors and then the kind of soft colors that are behind it. Now I like to use tents of the colors that air in the Mandela already without introducing another color, because it really ties the whole thing together to make a cohesive whole. This color here is a tent of the brown I'm using around here. And the blue is just a tent of this darker blue that I'm using here. Now, on this one, you can see I did not pay attention to foreground and background when I was choosing these colors, and it didn't work out so well. So in this one, the tone is all the same, which means the darkness of the color, the overall darkness is all the same, and there's no light and dark to pull out those shapes. So if you're having a problem and you paint and it just you can't see the structure of your Mendell anymore, it very well could be that the colors role to close in tone and everything just kind of blends together and gets a little bit muddled. So that's what happened on that one. So try to avoid that mistake and think ahead and pick out your background and foreground colors so Now it's time to choose your colors for your mandala. Color can be a little bit intimidating, so I'm gonna walk you through a couple tips to help you out. The first thing I usually do is I start with my color wheel. Now this color will. I created myself, and I actually suggest that you do the same with your color medium. So this one I created with my inks and I don't have every color. So it's not exact precise color wheel, but it's pretty close, and it's with the ink that I have so I can look at this. And I know that I have these particular colors, and I can create a really nice palate off of this color will. So just to review the color will real quick. We have our primary colors that are red, blue and yellow, and then our secondary colors are orange, purple and green. Within their there's a cult tertiary colors, and then within your color wheel, you could just take any of these colors and make your own palate. You can mix all these colors together and make your own palette, so I'm gonna show you how I create my color palettes using my color wheel. So I have a pile of Mandela's here that I have created, and I'm just gonna kind of go through these real quick and show you the color choices that I made and how they relate to this color will. So this 1st 1 is called monochromatic, and that means that we're using just one color. So in here, I use blue, and I'm talking about just the structure of the Mandela right now. So I use blue. And then I used tents of that blue. So wherever I wanted it lighter, I just added more water to my ink to make a tent. And then I filled out the entire thing with blue. Now, after I did that, I realized it was pretty cold, and I wanted to add some warmth to it and some contrast. And so, using my color will, I just went right across to see what color would be a really nice contrast and warm it up. And that was orange. So I chose my copper metallic and a little bit of gold. Metallic added in there to kind of warm up this one, this one monochromatic color scheme. This next one is analogous, and what that means is that you're using colors on the color wheel that air right next to each other. So for this color palette here I started with this color on the color wheel, and I chose the next three colors next to it. So I started with this olive green, and then I chose a turquoise, and then I ended up with is a blue. That's analogous because they're right next to each other. Now, after I have done that, I also realized that this one, like the last one, was a little bit cold. Those yellow green warmed it up a little bit, but I needed kind of a shot of warmth in here. So when I went to choose my metallic, I went across and right in here is where my copper sit. And so I chose my copper just to warm it up just a little bit, and that really creates some nice color harmony within that one. This color scheme is called complementary and compliments. You confined their opposite each other on the color wheel, so the compliment to red is green, and I went off here a little bit, as I usually do with my color schemes. Who I'm looking at the color wheel. I've got rent, I've got green right here. And so I just went next door and I got this more yellow green, this olive because I thought it looks really nice with the Reds. You'll find that I usually do that. I don't stick to thes color schemes exactly as they are designed. I look at them, I use them as a foundation, and then I add a little bit of different stuff into him just to kind of mix it up a little bit. And at the end at the end of the day, which you really are looking for, is something that looks really good to your own eye, and that has a lot of color harmony. So sometimes you have to go off the color will to do that. But it's a really good starting point. It's a good foundation. This nets color scheme is called split complementary, so to create a split complementary. What you do is you find one color. You go across the color wheel to its complement, and then you choose the colors on either side of that. So here I started with purple, and then I went right across the color wheel to these orange colors right here, and I ended up using all three of these, just blending them together. So one of these colors isn't exactly one of these colors is kind of a blend, but that's how I started, and it really creates a dynamic color scheme. Now this is an example of what I usually dio, and this is kind of making up my own. Now. I started with an analogous color scheme. I started with my turquoise, and I added in some of my olive green. And then what I wanted to do was I wanted to kind of choose a pop of color. So I went and I chose the complement of one of these colors, and that was this bright purple, and I used a tent of that as well, to get a little bit of variation and color, so it's partly analogous and partly complimentary, but it worked great, and it really pulls out the shapes and it allows the color harmony to work really well as all these different colors working together. So that's how I use the color will. Now I have another trick to pick out colors that works really well. And these were these little chips that I created. So I have these little watercolor pieces of paper and I just painted them with both all of my inks. The reason that this is really kind of handy and fun is that you can just lay out all of your colors and mix and match and put them together and see what looks good together to you . That doesn't work. You can choose another. It's a lot quicker than opening every single ink bottle that I have and putting all of my ink, my palate, trying this out. So here they're just already ready to go. I can lay them out. I can mix and match. I can choose color palettes. Sometimes I have a bunch of different color palettes that I choose together. I'll take photos of, um, and I could go back and reference them at a later time. Another thing that really works with these is that I don't have neutrals or metallics on my color wheel. So I have that in here. My color chips. I have my metallics and I also have some neutrals. I have greys and I have Brown's. So when I'm choosing a color palette and I need to add a little bit of neutral, too, if it's a little bright, these colors look great together, but they're a little bit bright. I want to add one more color to tone it down. I can look to my color wheel, but I'm not gonna find my neutrals on there so I could look through here and I can find some of my neutrals and kind of see what works best with this color scheme that I just came up with. And like I said, I also have my metallics, so I could just put my italic with and kind of see what works best. It's a really handy tool, tohave so I would recommend before you guys start with your color. It's a fun exercise to create your own color wheel and, if so, inclined to create some little chips with the medium of your choice as well. I find these pretty invaluable tools when I'm choosing my own color schemes. Now, the color palette that I have picked out for this project I'm gonna be using is an analogous color color scheme, but I've added in a little bit of complementary. So I started down here with my olive green. I have two different shades of green. I'm gonna use some turquoise mixed in there and then toe adul bright pop of color. I come over here to my orange and then I'm gonna also try this antique gold prime for my metallic. This might change a little bit once I start painting, but I'm going to start with This is a foundation and see what happens. So now it's time for you guys to get to work and to pick your own color schemes. I hope that these techniques have helped you and makes a little less intimidating to pick your colors. And again, it's one of my favorite parts of the project. And so I hope it is for you guys to have fun choosing your colors, and I can't wait to see what you've come up with, will meet again in the next video. We'll start applying color to our work 11. Painting: Okay, so now we're ready to move on to the color stage. And if you see what I have started here is sometimes I just like he's the tracing paper over my final drawing. And just use some markers for some quick color studies just to see I've got my color palette picked out, so I choose the same color markers that I'm gonna be painting with. But sometimes I just like to do this just to see where I want to place the color. Like the step isn't always necessary. But I want to make sure that I like green putting my color. I'm gonna go something like that. I'm gonna go with a green star, and then I'm in alternate the Oakar and turquoise around the outside. So I'm gonna start painting mine. And I can't wait to see how your guys turn out. - When you're Mandela is complete, please post it to the project page so we can all see your beautiful work. I hope you had fun creating your mandala today and are inspired to continue on and make more. Thanks for joining me