Make your own bird table | Mark Shorter | Skillshare

Make your own bird table

Mark Shorter, DIY expert!

Make your own bird table

Mark Shorter, DIY expert!

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12 Lessons (33m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Safety and equipment

    • 3. Preview

    • 4. STEP 1 – Cut the post

    • 5. STEP 2 – Cut the two feet

    • 6. STEP 3 – Join the feet to the post

    • 7. STEP 4 – decking boards for the main table

    • 8. STEP 5 – add the decorative edge

    • 9. STEP 6 – make the house framework

    • 10. STEP 7 – make the roof

    • 11. STEP 8 – connect the post to the table

    • 12. STEP 9 – attach the framework to the post

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About This Class

Hello and welcome to this course where I will show you how to build a wooden bird table. This course can be used by both the complete beginner as well as the more adept DIYer, as I go through every process step-by-step.

I will take you from the very beginning and explain all the details so we can build a beautiful table for our feathered friends.

I’m based in the UK, and I managed to get all of the materials required for about £15, so this is a relatively inexpensive project to complete.

The only materials you’ll require are some timber in various sizes that I go through later, some screws and some nails. The sizes I’ve included in this course can also be altered to fit your own specification.

So let’s begin.

Meet Your Teacher

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Mark Shorter

DIY expert!


Hello, I’m Mark and I love DIY!

For the past 15 years, I have been developing houses,  and in that time I have become an expert in everything DIY. I started out as complete beginner and found out that with a little bit of time and patience, nothing is impossible. If you scroll down through my profile, you’ll find plenty of courses that cover topics not only in DIY, but also in baking and gardening encompassing all my passions.


If you click any of the links below, you will have full access to all my courses plus every other course on Skillshare completely free for two months.


Here are the courses I have at the moment:

All about British birds:

5 Easy to grow herbs, sowing, g... See full profile

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1. Introduction: Hello and welcome to this course where I'll show you how to build a wooden bird table. This course can be used by both the complete beginner as well as the more adept DIY. As it goes through every process step by step. I will take you from the very beginning and explain all the details so we can build a beautiful table for our feathered friends. I'm based in the UK and I managed to get all the materials required for about 15 pound. So this is a relatively inexpensive projects are complete. The only materials you'll require some timber in various sizes that I'll go through. Some screws and nails. The sizes are included in this course can also be altered to fit your own specifications. So let's begin. 2. Safety and equipment: Safety first. As always, with DIY projects, the most important thing to remember is safety. So here's a bit of advice. When using the tools. If you're going to be using the circular saw, then I would recommend a defenders as they are quite loud. You ought to have protective gloves and then you'll need safety glasses to protect your eyes. Go through each step steadily and carefully. If you rush, not only is it more likely you'll make a mistake, but you're also more likely to have an accident. Equipment and materials. To build this bird type. Or you will need either a Hansel or circular saw. Obviously a circular saw as much quicker than a hands-on, but they're not something the average DRY has to hand. If you are using a hand, saw them a lot of hands salts have a built-in angled guide, which is perfect for this project. If your hands so however, doesn't have an angled guide, Don't worry, it isn't essential. But you will need either a set square or ruler as well. You'll also need a drill, a screwdriver, and a hammer, and chisel, a pencil. I type measure, a hacksaw, and some sandpaper. So that's the equipment. Finally, let's have a look at the materials. You'll need. A 47 millimeter Boy, 47 millimeter by 1.8 meter timber post. 47 millimeter boy, 22 millimeter timber post, and approximately 1.2 meters long. A 32 millimeter by 19 millimeter timber post, approximately 1.2 meters long and 100 millimeter feathered edge fence board and approximately 1.5 meters long. Thin wooden beading, approximately 1.2 meters long. One month of decking board, approximately between 90 centimeters and 1.2 meters long. And wooden plank for the base at approximately 30 centimeters long. But you could also use another decking board, which is why I've said between 90 centimeters and 1.2 meters for the deck inboard. You'll also need some external 70 millimeters screws, some 50 millimeter external screws, and some external panel pins. 3. Preview: The finished project. Before we start actually making the bird table, let's have a quick look at what it's going to look like when it's finished. That way we know what we're working towards and we're not working blind. As you can see, the final bird type is a cuboid frame with a pyramid roof. The main table then sits on a long post with a pistol. Help it stand up. We're going to start with the Post and the feet. And then we'll move on to the main table. With the main table, we'll build the bottom first and then work our way up during the solids. And then for me, the roof will then finish by touching the table to the post. 4. STEP 1 – Cut the post: Part one, cut the post. We need to put the posts for the table to sit on for my own title. I've chosen to call the post 210 centimeters, but you cannot choose any how you wish. The post I've picked is a 45 millimeter by 45 millimeter by 1.8 meter length post. This is thick and sturdy enough to keep the whole thing stable. And London of termite the feed to. You should type measure to measure out the desired length, and then use a pencil to market. Then use a ruler or the straight edge of a hands-on tutorial alone you can use as a coating guide. Then use your Hansel Oh, your circular saw to cut the post. You will then probably need kicks sand in the edges you could to get rid of any roughness. 5. STEP 2 – Cut the two feet: Step two. Could the two feet with a notch and make the leg supports? The feet of the bird table are made out of two shorter length of the signpost were used in the last step. For my bird table, I might defeat 60 centimeters long. So just like we did before, we need to use a tape measure to measure out a mark 60 centimeters. Then might the coach using your saw. And you'll need to do this twice to make both feet. Now we have 260 centimeter length and 1110 centimeter length or timber post. Next, what we have to do is cut a notch in the center of each of the two feed posts so that they can fit flushed together. This is one of the trickiest parts of the whole project. So take your time with this to reduce the risk of making a mistake. The notch needs to go in the very center of each of the two posts. Firstly, Micah mark half pi on both 60 centimeters posts. So 30 centimeters. Then measure the thickness of the wooden post, harvest it, and then mica mark each side of the half-mile lie. For example, more policy is 4.5 centimeters thick. So I might have a two and a quarter centimeters either side of the halfway mark. Double-check everything at this stage to make sure the notch ends up in the very center of each foot post. When she'd might the two marks either side of the center mark turned a post to the next side. And my two marks halfway along the width of the post in line with the previous March she made. Then connect these two marks like this with the line. Do the sign on the opposite side of the post. You can then draw a pencil line to connect everything together like this. Once again, don't forget to double-check the thickness of the lines against the other post. So you might know mistakes. You then need the exact same Marx on the other foot post. Once all the marks are done, you're going to cut out the knowledge. This is a very tricky step. So be very careful and take your time. Using your Saw. Cuts along the two aisles aligns. You'll be coating only halfway through the thickness of the post to the lines in the middle. If you're using a circular saw, then the courts need to be made on both sides of the post because the saw blade is round and won't have gone through evenly. So once you've done one side, ten the post around, and then do the same quotes on the other side. Now we're going to use a chisel to remove the notch star by hitting the chisel along the line on one side of the post. A big chunk may or may not come away. But if it doesn't, it doesn't matter. Just turn the post over now and do the same on the other side until the Nazis removed completely. Afterwards, usually cheese or the toil of any edges of the knowledge. Once you've done the same thing on both posts, pushed the feet together. It should be a toilet feet. Cmi need a hammer to force them together. Don't panic if you made the notch is a little bit too big and it's a little bit loose because the screws we're going to use lighter will hold everything together tightly. Don't forget, all the way along though. Use some pipette storage of any cross edges. Now that we have the main post and the feet, we're not going to make some support posts that will hold the main opera oppose firmly implies the forelegs supports or we might add a 45 millimeter by 20 millimeter would posts measuring quote, For 30 centimeters in length of the wooden posts. Only measure one length at a time. Don't measure all four 1's because you'll end up with an even lens because the thickness of the SOL blight will take off a little bit extra wood. Once you have four equally lend 30 centimeter pieces of wood, we need to cut off each end at an opposing 45-degree angle. To do this, I think it's easiest if you use a set square or the angle part of your hands-on to draw a 45-degree line at both ends and then connect them with a straight line. Cuts off both ends. So the cut-off session is on a sinusoid of the word. Once you've cuz of h end, use some sandpaper to smooth out the edges. You'll then have four-foot support with a 45-degree angle cutoff, Hn 6. STEP 3 – Join the feet to the post: Step three, attach the post of the feet and at the foot supports. Now we have all the pieces codes. We can attach them together. The main post needs to go on top of the feet to start Mike across to find the middle of the feet. Then July pilot hole in the center of the cross through both feet. Before we attach the post of the phase, we want to get the position correctly. So we need to draw two lines to guide us through lines like this, to make a square in the center that we can use to make sure the post is in the right place. Nat Turner feet over and pull along screw in the hole. And then screw a scenario to tout implies put the posts on a table and hold the feet implies using your pencil lines to guide you. And then screw the screw all the way into joined the feed to the post. We now have the post and feet, but it's going to be very unstable. So we need to add the support to make it sturdier. Plus one are the foot supports into position. And then draw a line at the top and bottom with a pencil. You can then use a set square. We will have to extend the loin so it goes all the way around the post. Will then use this line to my show all the food support or in the same position. Next, we need to drill some pilot holes on each side of the food sports to Nepal at all. So it goes to the diagonal edge on each side of the force supports hand screw screws into H Hall and then place the first support posts implies using the lawn we drew on the post earlier. Screw. The first support post implies at the top and then at the bottom. Do the same thing with the second, third, fourth support post. Now the base of the bird table is much more stable and capable of supporting the top. 7. STEP 4 – decking boards for the main table: Step four, decking boards for the main table, three lengths. The next thing to do is to my chi-square top either decking boards for the table. The top is going to be three decking boards void. So either measure the width of three decking boards put together. Oh, just measure one and multiply it by three. Measure and mark the three boards. Then could the boards to this length. Now when you put them together, you will have a perfect square. To attach the decking boards together. We're going to use the wooden plank. The plank IOUs was from an old shelf, but you could use another length of tech inboard as you'll probably have some spare from the length you bought. Hold applying cover all three of the decking boards and Mike homolog. So the plank is a little bit shorter than the three decking boards. Then you can put it to the right length. Before we screwed the plan for the decking boards, we need some my pilot holes. I have used four screws in each decade board as this will make it very strong. We'll then end up with 608 soils of the wooden plank. Just a quick note to say that art historians have to group the decking board on the underside of my table as this, what might the top easier to clean. So that the wooden plank sits in the perfect center of the three decking boards. You need to make some marks that we can use to line everything, all. Measure length of two ends of the decking boards and then make a mark-off. Why? Do the same on both sides of the wooden plank and line up the lines before touching the plane to the deck keyboard using screws. Stop by screwing screws into four corners of the wooden plank. And then screw in the rest of the screws. 8. STEP 5 – add the decorative edge: Step five, at the decorative edge. The edge around the top of the table is not just a decorative edge, but it also helps to keep the bird food on the table and stop it falling off. The edge is mydata wouldn't be eating. Holder wouldn't beating along one edge of the table top. And then martha length needs to be cooled. Then use a set square or your hands thoughts and micro 45-degree mark so that he can form one corner of the decorative edge. Use a hacksaw to cut along the line. The hack. So we'll give a much smoother could then your hands or circular saw well, do the sign for the other three sides of the tabletop. So you end up with four lengths of beating, each with a 45-degree internal angle coated either end. The beating goes all around the edge of the table top. But we need a slight gap for cleaning purposes. You can use the gap to help you sweep off on Eastern seeds or the inevitable bird poop from the table. To make the gap simply MCA mark halfway along one of the BDD, Gs, and then chop off three centimeters from a the solid. This will give you a six centimeter notch. Could the notch at a 45-degree angle? As this will make it look a little bit more decorative. Once the gap is doing, you can attach the beading using panel pins. User hammer this upper panel pin into one end. In each of the smaller bays. And then on the other three sides use three pins to hold the beading securely implies. 9. STEP 6 – make the house framework: Step six, Mike, the framework for the roof. Now we've done the tabletop. We need some idea framework that will sit on top. The Forbes down parts of the frame needs a stan perfectly within the beading. I've made tons 15 centimeters tall. Second, the 32 millimeter, 0.19 millimeter timber post and measure and market. Then could the full length of 15 centimeters plus the Forbes stands implies at the four corners of the tabletop. And then measure the distance between two of the substance. Could two of the sinusoids would to that length. We're now going to attach the two longer posts in between noob stance. We need some my pilot holes first and then screw the posts together. Once you've done this with both of the longer length, you will have 2n shapes that we now complies back on the main table. Once implies on the table, measure the gap between the two end shy pieces. Could two lengths of wood to that length and then use them to attach the 2n shapes pieces together. Just as before, mike polar holes and unscrewed altogether. You will need to go over to the side angle this time though. So you avoid you the screws holding both section securely, screw them together. You'll then have the base frame complete. 10. STEP 7 – make the roof: Step seven, Mike, the roof. Now we've done the main framework. We can add the roof frame. We need to do a little bit of maths for this next part. So hold on tight to work as how long we need to put the roof posts. We start by measuring the distance along the base. If you have a calculator with the cost function button, then you can use that will simply go to Google typing calculator. And you can use that. What you have to do is type into the calculator, costs 45 times the width, two measured. And this will give you the land. You need to put your roof posts. For example, if the width of the top of your frame is 30 centimeters, you typing costs 45 times 30. Press equals, and you'll get 15.75 centimeters. So-called four pieces of wood to the lens you've just calculated and cut the ends at opposing 45-degree angles. And you'll end up with four identical roof buttons. You want to screw the top two pieces in like this. Make a little mark that we know where to draw the pilot holes. Additionally, we need to make a polynomial where the roof posts meets at the top. So to the post will have one pole at home and two of them will have to potholes. Shall all the pilot holes ready for screwing together? This is how we will arrange the roof pieces. Since we already have the pilot holes, or we have to do now is screw, the screws in. The first side will look like this. And then here is the second side. The final piece of the roof frame is the top piece. We just need to measure the Gambia in-between the two triangles and then put one length of wood at that measurement. We can then attach the wood in the sign why we ever touched everything else. Polynomial first and then a Screw. Now that we have the complete frame, we just need to add the roof slats. I chose to use wooden fence panels with a feathered edge as they are thin enough to overlap and not make the roof look too bulky. Measure the width of the roof frame, so we know how long to could each panel put add a little extra so it overlaps each side of the frame, but no longer than the whole length of your tabletop. Three panels each side should be enough to cover the roof. Measure out and put six length of roof panels. We're then going to arrange them like this. We'll use the same panel pins we use for the decorative edge to attach the roof panels. Snowball placed in the bottom panel implies mark the framework. Then hammering to panel pins each side of the panel to secure it. Then you can place the second panel slightly above the lowest one. And then the final panel at the very top. Do the exact same on the other side. And this is what you will have. Now I will just say that even though this seems quite simple, you do need to take your time with it because it's quite awkward to get the panels in the right position. So make sure you are completely happy with the positioning before your panel painting together. Take the completed roof frame and place it onto the tabletop. Hold the FOB stands as close to the corner is they will go and then draw a line around the base of each one. Then remove the frame and Joe pilot holes in each corner within the pencil mouse you've just made. We're not actually going to attach the frame yet though. It's easy to touch the table tops of the post before we add the roof. So we'll do that now. 11. STEP 8 – connect the post to the table: Step ICT, connect the post to the tabletop. Turned the tide was hope over and then draw lines along the middle of each side. So they joined in the very center. Then draw a square the same size as the main imposed in the center of the table top. If you have enough coat of the main post, then you can use this to draw around. The drone square will then help us with the positioning in the next step. Micah similar mark on the top side of the table top. And then drill two diagonal pilot holes like this. Two screws in the holes and how to screw them in slightly implies the top onto the post and make sure it's positioned perfectly. Then screw the table top to the post. I've actually added two extra screws to Moines, which I did once. The table top is glued in place. This may the table top extra strong and stable. 12. STEP 9 – attach the framework to the post: Step nine attached the framework to the tabletop. The very last step is to attach the frame to the main structure. So put the framework in place on top of the table top. You can then use the pilot holes we've already made to put screws into the four WOOP stands from underneath. Your bed table isn't complete. Turned to put some bird food on it and let the birds enjoy your handiwork.