Make the Slouch Top - FREE pattern included | Laura Casey | Skillshare

Make the Slouch Top - FREE pattern included

Laura Casey, Sewing blogger & pattern designer

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9 Lessons (12m)
    • 1. Slouch Top INTRO

      1:18
    • 2. Slouch Top 1

      2:46
    • 3. Slouch Top 2

      0:43
    • 4. Slouch Top 3

      0:42
    • 5. Slouch Top 4

      2:03
    • 6. Slouch Top 5

      2:24
    • 7. Slouch Top 6

      1:37
    • 8. Slouch Top 7

      0:29
    • 9. Slouch Top 8

      0:23

About This Class

Download a free PDF pattern that you can assemble at home or have printed at a copy shop. There is advice to help you choose the right fabric - anything stretchy will work really well for this project. You will find finished garment measurement to help you choose the right size. Cut and sew your fabric to make this comfortable and easy to wear top with help every step of the way. The Slouch Top looks great in so many different fabrics that you can make it over and over again.

Create Project

Transcripts

1. Slouch Top INTRO: Hi, My name's Laura from so different. I'm an independent sewing pattern designer on fabric designer based in the UK and today I'm gonna talk you through making this pattern here. Now this is a free pattern that's included with tutorial, and it makes this'll every top of slouch top. It's really, really easy to wear talk. You could make out something stretchy. I will talk you through all the details of the profits that you could use later on. But as you can see, it's stretching. It's comfy. It's got a little little gathers here. Chop sleeve. It's got some comfy cafs, and some gathers there on a loose fitting shape to the body. It's very easy to make if you're a beginner. This is absolutely perfect for you. I am not talk you through the techniques that you're going to need the fabric you're going to need. All you actually need. Equipment wise is a sewing machine. Once you've got that, we're ready to start what you waiting for. For this project, you will need ah, home printer or access to a copy shop sisters and sticky tape to put your pattern together , fabric and thread. And, of course, a sewing machine 2. Slouch Top 1: you can download and print your pattern from www dot so different dot co dot UK slash flowchart top free pattern. How much fabric do you need? Well, there are lots of different widths of fabric, particularly in the United States, but in the UK, the two most common wits of fabric are 112 centimeters wide, or 100 and 50 centimeters wide. That's 45 inches or 60 inches, So if you're fabric is 112 centimeters wide, the total amount of fabric needed is 2.3 meters, and that's for all sizes. If you're fabrics 150 centimeters wide, emphasises extra small, small, medium and large. The total amount is 1.4 meters. If you're making the size extra large than the total fabric needed is 1.5 meters, so there's not a lot of difference. So what kind of fabric to choose? Well, the main thing for this top is that you have something stretchy. There are loads of different types of stretch fabrics out there, like these sweatshirt ings that they are lovely and they have a super soft very inside, so they will make a really, really snuggly top. My original example on the mannequin is made off a two way stretch Lycra, but this isn't necessary. Just stretching one direction will be absolutely fine. I've settled on this really nice striped sweatshirt ing to make up to show you I've given you the finished garment measurements here to help you choose what size pattern to cut. As you can see, the bust, waist and hips are actually ALS the same dimensions, because this is a very straight top, so that makes things a bit easier. Finished garment measurements are not your body measurements. They are the size off the garment when it's finished. So you might want to measure a garment that is about the right size for you at the moment and see what that wit this on. Then choose your size accordingly, so choose your size and cut along the colored lines. This here is a notch that I'll be talking to you later about, so just take note of what that is and where they are. As you can see here, there are different layouts for the different sizes in the different widths of fabric. In some cases, the fabric folds in towards the centre, which creates two folds on your fabric piece. This is because all of your pattern pieces are cut on the fold on. This will give you the best use of fabric. 3. Slouch Top 2: now I use pattern weights when I cut my pattern pieces out. But most people do pin, whichever you do. The pattern pieces do have to be kept securely on the fabric while you're cutting. So here we are, with all our pattern pieces. Cut now. I just wanted to show you something on the cuff. Here, you can see that the Cuffy's cut one way on the fold, but then there's a dashed line on. You're gonna fold it along that dash line for the actual sewing. I've created something quite nice here with stripes. It's worth paying attention if you are using a striped or directional fabric, I've got the stripes going across the cuff, but up the arm, which I think is gonna look pretty good. 4. Slouch Top 3: we're going to start by unfolding your front and back from the way that they were cut on, putting them together with right sides. Together, I'm again to so across the shoulder seams. Now, when you start sewing, it's really important to take note of what seam allowances you can see on my pattern. Here I use 1.5 centimeters, which is 5/8 of an inch. And if you look on your sewing machine, you can see that 5/8 of an inch is actually marked on your presser plate, so your fabric edge needs to run along that line to keep a really smooth and even seam allowance. 5. Slouch Top 4: and now we're going to move on to the sleeves. We get to gather the sleeve between the two notches to create the head of the sleeve. We're going to run a line of stitching between these two notches here, so it's just a straight stitch just inside the seam allowance. That's about a centimeter away from the edge of the fabric. We got to Anchorage at one end with a backstage and leave the other end open, and then we're going to gather it up. So he's our line of stitching. This section here needs to gather up to be 14 centimeters long. You can just like a tape measure on your work table hall, one of the loose ends of the threads. Gather your fabric up like this, and they're not the two ends to stabilize and keep that length. Now that we've gathered the section at that end, we get together than section at the cuff end to fit the length of the cuff. So again it's a line off straight running stitch on a large stitch with, and then I gather up just to fit the width of the cuff that you've cut. So you folded your cuff with the wrong sides together, and you're gonna pain that to your gathered sleeve end, and then we're going to stitch the two together on Dadar. Your sleeve is starting to look like a sleeve. Next, we're going to join our sleeves to the body of our garment. You'll find, once you've done your little gathered piece on the sleeve, that the sleeve fits perfectly in between the two notches, the one in the back and the one on the front. So with right sides together, you can pin your sleeve to your front and back and stitch it together. So here we are, and you can see that it's finally starting to look like a sleeve. 6. Slouch Top 5: So before we go any further in putting our garment together, we're going to finish the neckline. We do this now because it's much easier to finish the neckline while your garment is still in two dimensions rather than three. So start off by saying you're too facings together along this short edges. Then we're going to pin them with right sides together to the neckline of your garment. Then we're gonna go super carefully and super slowly on DSO using the usual 1.5 centimeters seam allowance round the neckline off the garment. Now, don't be tempted to pull this line straight. The neckline is curved. Needs to stay curved as you feed it round. If you pull it straight, you're gonna end up with a horrible stretch on your neck line. You can see here that I folded the seam allowances off the facing open for us flat in effect as possible. So once we've sewn on are facing. We need to clip notches into the seam allowance. This is going to allow the fabrics to lie flat. Once they're turned back the other way, you're not. She's need to be cut out as triangles like this on they need to go as close to your line of stitching as is possible, is worth taking time at this point to get this right because it makes a real difference to how nicely your neckline will sit. When we've notched all the way around the curve of the neck line, we're going to fold the facing inside. You need to press it and then pin it all the way around. Next, we're going to top stitch the neckline. This is really good, especially for thicker fabrics for keeping your facing lying down on flat. Now, I'm not using pins here, as you can see, but that's just because I wanted to show you how to pull the facing just under a little bit more so that it doesn't stick up around the edge of your neckline. And again, you can see how I'm keeping that neckline curved as it goes around, and I'm not tempted to pull it straight. So true. Off your threads on there, you have a lovely, smooth neckline 7. Slouch Top 6: And now, for our final step, you need to fold your garment with right sides together so that it actually starts to look like a top. Make sure that your underarm seams were aligned and we're going to so all the way along the underside of the arm on down the sides, the most important place to pin correctly is this under arm seem, we're going to start at the cuffs because thes two edges really need to line up neatly, and it will really show if they don't. It is any kind of discrepancy at the other end that's really easily concealed with the bottom ham. You might find it a bit difficult to get through the machine. If your fabrics quite chunky, you can see I'm struggling with it slightly here. But just go slowly and make sure that your edges are aligned. Now, when you get to this corner, you need to stop your machine with them, needle down in the fabric, and then you'll find that you can pivot it like this, and that allows you to so down the sides. When you finish that side seam, you'll need to cut into the corner in a diagonal line to stop it pulling on. Ally your sleeve to lie flat when it's on. When you finish, you need to trim the corner off your cuffs so that you can't see the seam allowance when you're wearing it. 8. Slouch Top 7: on the final step, of course, is the bottom hem. So fold and pin your hen 1.5 centimeters as before and stitch with a normal running stitch . So here we are without finished garments. I'm just gonna pop it onto the Maliki and so you can see how it looks. 9. Slouch Top 8: So I have you enjoyed. Making your slouch top is the kind of thing you could make over and over again in different fabrics and get so much news that'll thanks very much for watching. And I'll see you again next time.