Make a Quilt: Window Shopping | Karen Burns | Skillshare

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Make a Quilt: Window Shopping

teacher avatar Karen Burns, The Warped Spinster

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

8 Lessons (1h)
    • 1. WindowShoppingIntro

      0:55
    • 2. Materials

      7:06
    • 3. Cutting

      20:35
    • 4. Piecing Part 1

      7:55
    • 5. Piecing Part 2

      8:33
    • 6. Arranging

      14:22
    • 7. Finished

      0:52
    • 8. Thank you!

      0:40
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About This Class

Make a beautiful but easy modern quilt, using 10" squares, 2-1/2" strips, and a bit of yardage.  I'll take you through the materials, cutting, piecing, and putting the quilt top together.

Meet Your Teacher

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Karen Burns

The Warped Spinster

Teacher

Hello, and welcome!  I'm Karen, and I'm glad you're here.

I've been making quilts for nearly 50 years, and have been teaching quilting and designing quilts for several years.    In the past year I embarked on designing fabric--because what quilter doesn't love fabric?

I retired from the library world six years ago, and since then have spent more time teaching and designing, and pursuing other interests:  reading, researching history, spinning (fiber) and weaving (hence the Warped Spinster name), knitting, etc., etc.   Basically, I love fiber.

And chocolate. 

See full profile

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Transcripts

1. WindowShoppingIntro: I'm Karen, a k a. The warp spinster in this class will learn how to piece my window shopping quote that you see behind me here. It's not a difficult quilt. It's straight cutting and sewing. And it's such a wonderful showcase for those big, beautiful prints, those gorgeous colors, all the wonderful fabrics that we have today. It uses 10 inch squares and 2.5 inch strips, plus a little bit of yardage for that stashing that you see running through the windows in the class. We will cover the tools of materials that you need the cutting, the sewing, the pressing everything that goes into peace in a quilt up. I hope you'll join me for the class. It's going to be fun, so find the gorgeous fabric that you want to use and let's get 2. Materials: Let's start with the materials and tools you'll need for window shopping. First, you'll want to download the pattern, which you'll find in the project section for this classes website. Remember that you won't be able to access that section from a mobile app, so log in on a Web browser can go to this class is site and click on the My Project section and you'll see the pdf there to download for fabric. I'm going to be using this collection for motor. This is Sweet Pea and Lily by Robin Pickens and the Colors Air just so bright and happy We are so ready for spring around here, and I'm just really looking forward. Toa plane with ease Working with these bright, happy fabrics, this is a layer cake for motive, so it has 40 10 inch squares. You'll need 38 10 inch squares for this quilt. Most packs full packs anyway have at least 40 so you'll be fine with a single pack of 10 inch squares. You will also wants him 2.5 inch strips, and I'm using a motor layer cake layer cake, jelly roll from the same collection. Just look at those colors, those fun and then for the window part of it. You will need some accent fabric, and I would choose a fabric that contrast pretty well with the fabrics your your 10 inch and 2.5 inch strips. In this case, I'm using white. There was at a really pretty light lavender with a print on it that I thought went really well with all of the fabrics, was a nice accent, but it had a very linear pattern on it. And if it were not printed exactly straight on the length of grain, the Strait of Grain than when I cut the strips, the pattern would have gone a little wonky. And that would drive me crazy. So I Huff did not to do that. And I chose this white on white, which will be a really pretty accent for it, too. If you like piece to findings, you will have enough of these 2.5 inch strips left in order to do a piece binding, which can be a lot of fun. If you prefer a solid binding, though, you'll want 5/8 of a yard to do that. So that's it for the software. That's the fabric. Let's talk a little bit about the hardware. Of course, you'll need your rotary cutting mat to protect your table top and your rotary cutter. For rulers, you really only need one, and that's Ah, 24 inch ruler. This is a six by 24 which will work fine. 8.5 by 24 would be fine. You'll just need a good length of ruler, especially when you're cutting these accent strips. It will be by with the fabric, but it will also be useful. When you are doing some cutting on the blocks, you'll need more than a 12 inch long for that. If you're a person who likes to square up everything, then you can also use a square approval. Er, this is a 12.5 inch. I use square up a lot. I like to be precise about that, but I probably won't use it on this project. You have steps along the way in pieces that you put together that sort of help to keep you in line with the size as you go. If you're a person who likes to use pins by all means pull out your pins. This is thes pins are my favorite. I like thes thes air clover, extra finds. I think they really are quite fine. They've got a sharp point on them, so they slide easily into the fabric and they're fine enough that they don't distort the fabric where I use the pins. But whatever pins you'd like to use will work fine. Of course, you also will need you rotary cutter, I recommend just for your hands. If nothing else, that you do at least a 45. This is what I usually use. Sometimes they use a 60. You're not really cutting through a lot of layers on this project, so a 45 will work fine. Remember to change the blade. You'll want a pair of scissors or clippers or something in order. Teoh, trim your threats. So whatever you like to use that for that you probably won't need it. But I always have a seam ripper handy just because I usually need a seam ripper. At some point, I think I have a seam ripper every room in my house. At this point, you'll also be doing some pressing as you go so you'll need an iron. A small one actually is fine, but a large one certainly is perfectly fine. And this is a wool felt map that I'm going to use when I'm doing demos, but you're ironing board or whatever board set up you have to do. Pressing will work perfectly fine. And of course, you will need your sewing machine in good working order. I've brought up my old faithful fall from the studio. It's really too dark to film down there. Change the needle. It's good idea to change the Neil for every project and make sure that you've got it ready set up to do a scant quarter inch. Seem. The scan of the quarter inch is just a couple threads with shy of the quarter inch that allows for both the thickness of the thread that you use and also for the fold back. When you fall back, the semen press it. It allows you to have a more accurate quarter inch finished quarter inch for thread. I always use a neutral of some sort. That keeps me from having to buy 6000 different colors of thread because threats pretty expensive, frankly, and I have neutrals in both warm and cool. So I have white and black, but I also have two or three different shades of beige. And I use that when the colors are warm. So those browns and in a lot, um, kind of rich reds and greens And then I also have cools. So I have my think three or four different shades of gray and these I use for cooler colors . These are tend to be more cool. Even the warm colors are on the cooler side. So I'm going to use a gray. This, I think, is a little too light for the fabrics that I have here. So I'm going to go with this darker grey, which I think is going to go better with this. So choose a thread that is going to blend as well as anything can with ease when we have so many colors here. I have faith in the tension on my machine. So, uh, this great, I think, is the one that I'm gonna end up with. We're ready to do some cutting now, so I'll see you back then. 3. Cutting: on cutting. The first thing that we're going to cut are the strips from the 2.5 inch strip pack, and we're going to use 30 of them were gonna be cutting 30 of them. If you are going to use the leftover strips for the binding, you can just pull out 10 of the strips that you'd like to use for that. If you have large prints and that's the kind of thank you like to have in your binding, then pull out those larger prints if you like more solid, kind of binding, and choose smaller prints or solids if you have them in there. So just pull out 10 that you don't necessarily want to use in the quote but want to use for the binding. I'm going to just demonstrate with one here. I'm gonna pull out one of them, and this is going to be not for the biting. This is one of the 30 that I'm going to be cutting, and I want to line up thes paint edges here, the long edges. If those right and I want to start off by trimming off this salvage peace here and squaring up the end. Just gonna take my ruler and line up the long edge along the long edge of my ruler here doesn't have to be precise all the way down, but certainly for the first part of this, And at this end, because I want that to be a really predict are cut. So I've lined this up on the long edge, and now I'm going to trim that off, making sure my finger out of the way and closing the blade when I finished that I can just discard the salvage. All right, so I'm right handed, so I'm doing it from this side. If you're left handed, you would do the opposite. You would trim it over here and then flip it over. But I'm right hand. It's so I'm going to do it this direction and I need from each of these I need two strips that are 14 inches long and one strip that is 10 inches long. So first of all, I'm going to cut the to 14 inch, and I can do that with a single cut. So this is still folded. That came off the pack, and I'm going to line up my 14 inch ruler mark on the edge that I just cut. And then I'm going to line up the long edges along the longer jeez of the ruler along the long edge of this strip. Now, 2.5 inch strips are pretty. Score me so you may have to jiggle things around a little bit. So I got those lined up My 14 inch ruler. Mark is over here. Yeah, I'm going to cut those. So now I have to 14 inch strips for that. Then, in order to get the tenant strip that I still need from it, I'm gonna have to unfold this strip and hope that you fabric company cut this on straight of grain. So I don't have an elbow in the middle. And now this is a 10 inch strip. So now I'm going to lie in my 10 inch ruler line on the edge that I just cut and again line up the long edge to make sure I'm doing a really perpendicular cut. Their and things look a little off kilter there, Okay? And then I'm going to cut that thinks you can use for another project you have left over So now I have from each strip I'm going to cut to 14 inch long strips and 1 10 inch long strip . So from each of those 30 then the next thing we're going to cut are the 10 inch squares. We're going to cut eight of these. Don't go crazy and do them all. You just want to choose eight of these. And from my pack, I want to take advantage of this large, gorgeous large print. And for the eight, I don't want to use that because the eight I'm gonna be cutting into 2.5 inch wide strips, so I have some or 2.5 by 10 inch strips to use later on. The beauty of this pattern for a large print is that you have these large areas here, and I want to preserve as much of this big, gorgeous print as I can, so I'm going to use those for the panes of the window. So I'm not going to when I choose my eight from this pack. I'm not gonna be choosing the the large prints so I could use any of these smaller prints that I have let me just grab a couple here now I could probably stack for and cut for it once. It's just how much time you want to spend at each point of it. Sometimes having tow line up four perfectly in the stack takes more time than cutting them in smaller stacks. So I'm just going to do to here, and I have a choice as to whether I want it. There's, ah, lying in here a light line in here. I can either cut it for particular to that line or parallel. Doesn't matter, probably won't matter in the final quote, unless you've got a really, really linear one. In which case, if I tend to not like to have lines that are off kilter. So if the lines aren't on straight of grain and it drives you crazy, if you can see the lines and they are running true to graying or running straight when you cut on grain, then I would cut perpendicular. But you don't care, doesn't matter, or if you don't have lines or a strike, that doesn't matter. All right, so yes, to the first thing I'm going to do is to measure from the pink edge here, too. The other pink edge 10 inches is kind of relative on some of these. I know for motor that the line that I am using for cutting is actually in the middle of these peaks. So you'll just want to make sure where they're measuring the 10 inches from and I just like to be is precise is possible. That maybe doesn't look like it's a big difference, but I do like to have it just to cut things is accurately as possible. So true forms. This looks like the 10 inches is at the middle of the peaks, and I'm gonna take my 2.5 inch line, which is right here, and line it up in the middle of the peaks on the paint edges. And then I'm going Teoh, watch my fingers and cut that first trip now because I have a six inch wide ruler, Aiken, due to cuts without moving the fabric out. So I've got 2.5 inches. If I want another 2.5 inches, I just have to shift this over to the five inch more and again line up in the middle of that pink ditch, and now the 2.5 has already cut. Now I'm going to coming five inch mark and I've cut two of those strips without having to lift the fabric out and and resettle. If you aren't comfortable doing that, you want to do one of the time. That works, too. So let me do this. These last two that way. So now I've lined up my 2.5 inch line on that, but I just made at the 2.5 inch lift up my ruler and pull out that strip. Now, In a perfect world, the strip that's left is going to be 2.5 inches. Why already? But I'm going to check it just because human beings don't live in a perfect world. All right, so I just have a little bit of food for out here at the edge. Tough to trim off. Just a little bit of lint, actually. All right, so now I have 4 2.5 inch strips from two of those can it squares. So I'm going to repeat that with six others. So you want a total of 8 10 inch squares that you cut into 2.5 inch strips before we get started on the actual cutting off the accent fabric. I want to explain something to you on paper. I think it will be easier for you to see and wrap your head around for the accent. Stashing strips The instruction say that you cut eight strips one inch wide by with the fabric, and then you step. Cut those into five inch links so they'd be won by five inches. That's pretty straightforward. Pretty standard. The next piece asked you to cut one strip 14 inches wide and then step cut sub. Cut those into one inch wide strips. As a designer, I'm always trying to make the most efficient use of fabric that I can and waste ASL. It'll as possible. And that's why I have asked you to do the one inch by 14 inch strips in this manner. So let me explain to you why if you were instead of cutting the 14 inches and then the one inch you were to cut the one inch wide and then cut 14 inch, you have 40 inches wide for fabric. Now your fabric, maybe a little wider, maybe 42. Maybe 44 though. Probably not. But I can't count on that. Um, that salvages maybe very wide on some fabrics. They may actually be a little shorter, a little less wide, depending on the manufacturer. So I only count on 40 inches wide when I'm figuring fabric amounts just to be safe. So you want caught off guard. So this is a one inch wide strip, and this is 40 inches wide. Here I'm cutting a 14 inch strip so I can cut a 14 inch year, and then I can cut another 14 inch. That's 28 inches. I don't have another 14 inches in my 40 inch with. Now, if you're fabricas 42 inches wide, not counted sandwiches cut Herbal 40 and 42 inches wide, then you could probably do it. But for those of you whose fabric isn't quite that wide, then you're gonna end up wasting all of this fabric, and you're going to need mawr than the 2/3 of fabric in order to get all of those strips out. However, if you first cut it 14 inches wide. So this is the with the fabric or this is that with the fabric and you're cutting this piece 14 inches. Then when I cut one inch strips from there, I'm going to be able to get 40 of those strips out of there. So 1 14 inch piece is gonna give me all 40 strips. I actually only need 30 of them, so I've got plenty of extra room. If I've made a Miss Cutter whatever, then I've got enough to do it. This is just a more efficient way to use the fabric to ensure that you're gonna have enough in that 2/3 of the yard. All right, having said that, let's talk about how you can do that. Um, the one inch by with the fabric that you cut and then sub cut into five inch strips. I don't think you have a problem doing that, so I'm not gonna demonstrate that. But let's take a look at this 14 inch wide business now. First thing I'm going to do is I've already trimmed up this edge. I didn't think needed to spend your time showing you how to do that. Could you know how to do that? So I've straightened up this edge This is my fold. Um, actually, let me move the camera up so you can see more of this. I'll be back in a minute, All right? So at least you can see a little bit more of it here. So this is my full down here, and this is my 40 inch with the fabric folded in half. So that's like 20 inches that way. And now I need to cut Ah, 14 inch wide strip. But my ruler is only six inches wide. However, to do that, there are three ways you can do it. One I don't suggest you use, and that is to use your Matt. I see a lot of people using their map to measure things. And sometimes if it's really huge, like a 20 inch square something, you don't have another way to cut it. Then maybe that's your only choice. But you're Matt is not as accurate as your ruler. So I like to always use rulers in some form in order to do it. So one way that you could do it is to just take a pencil and use your ruler and at the top and the bottom two places measure 14 inches over and make a little tick mark with the pencil and then do the same further down 14 inches. Make another tick mark, and then you can lay your ruler up against those tick marks. Carefully make sure that down here in the bottom, you are cutting exactly perpendicular early. So you've got this line lined up on the fold, and then you cut your you're 14. You choose up there, so that's one way to do it. And if you only have one ruler than that's the best way to do it. If you also have your square a ruler or you may be, have to eight inch rulers. If you're really ruler, seemed like I am. You can do that, but the other thing that you could do is to combine these two to make 14 inches wide. So this is six inches in this ruler, so I know, I bet six inches already covered. I need another eight inches in order to make it 14 inches wide so I can use this ruler and line my eight inches up along this edge. So here's my eight inch mark. Let me do it this way cause this is a ruler that has half inch marks, and it could be a little deceiving, so I'm going to use it here. So here's my eight inch line right here. So my eight inch line is going toe line up along this cut edge. And now I'm going to move this ruler. Make sure this one is steady. Move this ruler up against it. So now I've got eight inches here. Six inches here. That's 14 inches again. Want to make sure that things air lined up down here and they should be if I have trimmed this edge correctly and on straight. So now I could just take my rotary cutter and cut the 14 inches here, so I'm gonna go ahead and do that. And if you take any many of my classes, you're going to get tired of me saying this. But you only have control over your ruler and or wherever, as far as your hand is. So I'm going to start down here. I'm gonna I don't really have a place to plant my finke of my pinky here, but I'm gonna put my pinkie over here so this finger can't possibly go over and get cut off . It leaves a lot, believe me. So and I'm gonna plant my hand here when I cut. I'm going to stop when my rotary cutter gets to the top of this hand. If I move past this hand, it's much more likely that this ruler is going to be able to slip because it doesn't have my hand to study it. So I'm going to stop there and I'm going to just walk my hand up and I'll do another cut hand and finish it off. And then I have my 14 inches, except I feel very good job down here. There we go. All right, so there is my 14 inches Now I can cut my one inch strips from that. So here's my salvages, and I'm going to trim that up. I'm an ambidextrous cutter, So I could have been that on my left. Many people aren't so let's do it this way. Gonna make sure that I'm lined up with a line down here cutting straight trim off the salvages Now I can, instead of turning the fabric and disturbing that I can turn the mad around, have to move it for the camera anyway, All right, so now I could do my one inch cuts. I know this is 14 inches loan, and I know I can do my one inch cuts now and I'm it's folded, so I'm doing to one inch cuts of time. So now I can line up my one inch on that cut edge. No, I didn't catch that at the beginning there and cut one inch. And just as we did before with E. 10 inch squares, when we were cutting 2.5 inch strips, you can lift your ruler up and pull those two strips out. They're stacked there. Or line this up again. I've got the one inch here. I can lift the fabric up with a ruler up carefully lay it down again so that the two inch mark is against here. And I'm going to be able to do six strips this way because I'm cutting an inch wide and I have a six inch wide ruler so I can just keep moving across here. I will note there are also special rulers that you can lay down once they've got slots cut in them at different intervals. So you could could line up the ruler once, and then everyone inch you've got a slot that you could just keep cutting across there. And that's a very efficient way to do a lot of strips like this. So I could just keep going across until I get the six strips cut that I could get with this with the ruler. And if, in the process of lifting up my ruler and moved that fabric around, I'm just gonna have to three position things. So one more that I can get from this ruler and there. I've got six strips, actually 12 strips, because there it's on the cold, so I have two layers there. So your instructions asked that you cut 30 of these one inch strips, so because it's on the fold, I just have to make 15 cuts across there to get 30th Eastern's. And then you'll also be cutting those eight strips that are one inches by the with the fabric and then cutting those into five inch lings so five inch links. You're able to get eight pieces out of that on the 40 inch strips, so that's as efficient away is the other in order to do those. So that's it for your cutting. Next time I see you will be working on starting to quit the blocks together. See that? 4. Piecing Part 1: all right, I finished all the cutting, and I have my stacks of pieces here. These are the 10 inch squares 2.5 by 10 inch strips, 2.5 by 14 Wantage by five and one inch by 14. In this first segment, I want to orient. You do exactly what pieces you're going to go in the block. I'm not going to talk about it in the order will do it. We'll do that in detail further on. Just want you to see where various fabric pieces go so it can help you in determining which fabrics you want to use in each block and how you want them arranged. So the focus of each block is going to be the main window fabric, and that's your 10 inch square. Then you will putting a 2.5 by 10 inch strip on the top. In the bottom of that, this is like the casing of the window going around the window and to complete the casing. Then we're going to choose two of the 2.5 by 14 inch pieces. These will actually fit once you get the seams and not to worry, and then we're gonna have the sash ing in the middle. This is gonna look odd because we haven't done the interim steps yet, But basically, you're gonna have a Sachin strips going across here and then one down the center. So when you're choosing your fabrics initially, want to choose your tenants square and then pieces to go around. And when I do this, I generally try to mix colors going around so that I don't have all the same color. But actually, if you prefer to do all the same color, absolutely do it. My thinking is that I want different fabrics around there, So I've chosen. I really only have three basic colors. I've got some black or grey in there, too, but I've really just got three basic colors, so I've got a lighter pink and a darker pink here and then a purple and green. The other thing that I sort of look for in my case is that I don't have the same pattern next to each other. So here's this print this particular print in purple, and it's in the other colors as well. So I would for the way I like to do. It would avoid doing, say, the green in the same print. It adds more interest. I think if you have different prints, going around depends on personal taste. If you like it, you can bring them all with the same print. So go ahead and choose your fabrics. Let's start out with just one block. I think it's useful when you're making in equal to peace one block entirely to make sure that you all of the instructions and everything, makes sense to you. And then it goes together, as you expected. And then you can start doing them sort of change, piecing and doing the steps for all of the blocks at once. So start out with choosing 1 10 inch square 2 2.5 by 10 to 2.5 by 14. And these If you're using the same fabric for the stars, Sachin, you really have to make choices for that. You've already made that choice, so go ahead and choose the fabrics that you want to you, the pieces that you want to use for your first block, and when we come back, we'll talk about how we're going to start piecing this block together, have fun choosing your fabrics. I'll see you in a bit, and now we're ready to actually start piecing the block. To do that, you're going to take the tenants square that you want for the center part of your windows on your first block and two of the 2.5 inch by 10 inch strips and you're going to So those on opposite sides of this 10 inch square doesn't matter which two sides and they have to be opposite. But it doesn't matter if you put him to the side or top and bottom at this point, and it's pretty straightforward, so I'll just take this strip, line up that long edge and then line up the two side edges here with the size of the tenants square. You can use pins if you like. I often if I have a longish strip to so on. I put a pin at the end so that when it goes through the machine, if there's any shifting of fabrics that will know that this is still lined up in the end, when I get down there, then I probably will do the other side to the other strip because songs I'm going to the machine. I may have as well have both of them ready. In which case I'll just drop a couple pins in the beginning and the end, just so I take it to the machine, I won't lose track of it. I'd probably drop it on the floor and step on it, and that's all there is to it. We're just going to take that to the machine. So scared. Quarter inch seem on both of these pieces, and then we'll get on to the next step, so I will see what the machine. Now I'm at my machine, which has been set up for the scant quarter inch. I've moved my needle on my fall, fits the 7.5 position, and when I'm sewing again, I know that my re alleges sort of the middle of these peaks on the pinking. So that's what I'm gonna aim for the edge of my presser foot. My stitch length is just the standard ID, generally for piecing on using a 2.5 on life off with length Sorry during my pin catch over . All right, there's one side also do the other side to make sure I've Matt step the beginning about the pen in the end there. But I want to make sure when I moved into the machine miss that up scant quarter inch on this side. And I'm not pulling on the fabric back here. I'm not pushing it in. I'm just guiding it with my fingers. And I'm not back stitching here because I'm going to be stitching across the seams again, Um, on the next pieces that I put on and that will lock the stitches in place so I don't have to backstage. All right, so now I've got those two sewn and I'm going to switch over to the iron surface here. And first I'm gonna press the same flat. That helps to set the stitches that I'm going to full that back and just use the weight of the iron. I'm not irony, and I'm pressing. I'm just using the weight of the iron to get that fold back, and then I can go back and press on it and do the same on the other side. And now we have some cutting to do 5. Piecing Part 2: Oh, now we're ready to do some sub cutting on this block. The width of the block is still 10 inches because we haven't added anything to this 10 inch square. But because we've added thes two strips, this is now 14 inches or should be 14 inches. So I've checked mine, and it is indeed 14 inches. So I'm on target here, the first cutting that we're going to do. If you look at the instructions, you can see it laid out. We're going to cut this piece in half both directions, but because it's not square, it's gonna be a different measurement. It's 14 inches from top to bottom, so half way is going to be seven inches. So I'm going to measure seven inches from either the bottom or the top and make a slice across there. On the width. It's still 10 inches, so in this direction I'm going to slice it at five inches. If you're fabric doesn't move. If you work it right, you can make a cut without having to, um, shift thes fabric pieces apart so we'll see how that goes. So I'm going to start out with this vertical cut that I'm going to make and that's going to need to be five inches from the left edge. So I just take my ruler. You try not to bump the camera with my head here, and in this case, I'm going to line up this perpendicular. I'm gonna line this up on the the left edge, but I'm also gonna line it up along one of these Seems here just as kind of a double check here. So I've got five inches and I'm going to slice that in half. I can lift this up without shifting. Now I can cut this piece and that's going to need to be seven inches from either the top or the bottom. Now, it's probably gonna be easiest to swap. My mad around here can clear the decks around it because I never want to be cutting toward myself. So now seven inch of my ruler is only six inches wide. If yours is an 18 or 8.5 inch, then all you have to do is line up your seven inch here and cut it. But mine is only six inches. So I'm going to use the trick we used earlier and take this. This is six inches and I need seven inches. So I'm going to need to borrow one inch from this ruler. So I'm going to lay the one inch mark on this lending ruler here. So there's one inch along the edge. Now I'm gonna add in the six inches from this ruler. Make sure when I push that ruler up, I didn't shift that, and then I'm going to make that cut that direction. So now I've done both cuts, and it is now in four pieces for equal sized pieces, not square, but equal sized. Now, the next thing that we're going to do is to start add in in these Sachin strips, the window sash ing. So that's where your one inch by five inch accent fabric comes in. So we're going to insert those here, so I will first. So it two right sides together so that here, with the scanned quarter inch, then this piece is going to go on top of that so that with a scant quarter inch and do the same here, don't think you need to watch me do that. You will know how to sew, so I will be back to show you what our next step is. So here are the two halves of my block. Now I've got the seams pressed toward these narrow Sachin strips. The next step is to add the third stashing strip the long one in here. So I'm gonna take the one inch by 14 inch strip one up over here, and I have to check to make sure I got the right side. There we are, and that's just going to fit in there. So I saw it to one side, and then I saw it to the other side. The trick with this one, though, is that you need thes two to match up across there. So if you were to so this one on and that one gets shifted, that's an exaggeration. You would never do it that badly. Then you've got, um, your eyes going to see that if you so what together correctly, though it's going to look like it is just a single piece crossing there. So I'm gonna so on one side of this and then I'm going to come back and we'll talk about how to match up this 2nd 1 before we so that back in a Jiff, I'm back and I brought us down a little closer so you can see I have again pressed this stashing strip toward the Sachin Strip. And now I want to make sure that this meets up here. These two meet at the crosswise here, and then the bottom needs here is well, so the way that I do what is you may find something that works better for you, but the way I do it is just to put these right sides together, and then just pull this back far enough that I can see that's going to match up there. But I can see here that these match now when I fold that back two inch it forward a little bit double check it. That looks good. And then I'm going to put pins there to hold it. Then I'm going to do the same here, on the top, in the bottoms, and going full that back. Pin it there and again full this back. Pin it there. Looks like I have a little bit to make up down here a little bit of easy to Okay, so I'm just gonna double check this, all right, and then I can in both of those. So it's off to the sewing machine again, and I again will press towards that middle Sachin, and then we'll be back for the last step of the PC. We're back with our almost finished window. The next step in the final step for this block is to add the side pieces. So take the 2.5 by 14 inch strips that you selected earlier when you were planning your block and you're going to so one Teoh each long side. And in this case you're going to press toward these 2.5 inch strips. You gonna press outward, and that's going to be what it wants to do. It's much easier to press toward a seamless piece than it is one that has thes four seems in it. So that's what it's naturally going to want to do. When I saw these on in this case, I am going to do a little bit of a back stitch at the beginning in the end, because this is the edge of the block, and it would probably be OK without the stitching the back stitching. But that's just a little more comfort and having that securely stitched as unmoving these blocks around to arrange them into the quilt tops. So I'm going to finish thes two Seems that will come back and show you a picture of the Finnish block, and then we will get together and talk about arranging these into the quote top. So have some fun with the, uh, putting these together and finishing up your blocks. It's fun to play with the color in the fabrics and see how they all turn out. And then we'll start putting them all together. See how they interact. Have fun. See you later. 6. Arranging: my blocks pieced together now, and in the end I decided to square them all up to 14 inches square just because it makes it easier to sell them into the quilt tops. So just a quick review and how you would do that. I have a square ruler here. This one is 16.5 interest square. You'll need something that's at least 14 inches square, and I'm going to try to find ISMM. Any lines tow line up is I can. So in this case, this one I've already trend. Um, there are a number of things that Aiken can line up here. The most important one is this is a seven inch line that's running right through the middle of the Sachin, going this direction and the seven inch line running through it, going this direction. My diagonal line runs from corner to corner, so here's a corner piece. Here's a corner in the piecing runs through these corners, where these two cross through there and there. So I would line all of those up trim on these 1st 2 sides. I'm right handed, so I'm trimming these two sides first, and I'm going to turn it on 180 degrees and line up the same things. And on this ruler, I have the salted line at the seven inches. But I also have dotted lines 1/4 inch away from those. So those actually are on the edges of those Sachin strips. And then I would cut on these two sides if I were left handed. I hope I can get this right. I would line it up here, line up my center line and then turn those two sides first. So I finished all 30 of my blocks, and I have been squared up. Now we're going to arrange them and a couple of things I keep in mind when I'm arranging. First of all, I designed this quote so that you always have an unseen piece here to be sown to this piece that has four seems on it. So I'm never having to directly lineup and try to get it exactly here. So if we were doing it this way, then I would have to line up that and I'd have to line up that. But this way, when you're putting them together, you're always doing a seamless edge against a seemed edge. Now you still want to try to match these up? You've got the casing here, went out gazing here and then the sash. And you still want those tow line up Justus you did when you were doing these pieces and sewing in that one and then at the top of this window casing up here, too. All right. So, um, and that actually is one of the reasons why that seven inch line in the center is most important because that's going on. That's always gonna line up then. Another thing that I do is try to This is my own personal taste. I try not to put the same color and especially not the same print right up against each other, or have a lot of them clustered in one spot. That maybe a look you want. In my case, I wanted to have it distributed around. So as I'm laying these out, you're going to be doing five across and six down with your 30 blocks, so it will be six rows of five blocks each. So I'm always going to be turning every other one. I'm gonna alternate how these are turned. So this stashing this whole long Sachin comes to the edge here and this one, it only comes to this casing. So I'm always gonna just turn every other one and just keep laying them out until it they're distributed and it looks good to you. Then there are a number of ways that you can organized sewing these things together. I'll show you a couple. This is much like if you did my attic mirror class, then she's gonna look very familiar. So I I've done it in 2.5 inch squares. We're gonna pretend these or the blocks just so we have enough room to do all of this. So we're gonna lay these out and you're going to have five across and six down. I am going to just do three by four, because that will show you what I'm doing without taken up too much room or time here. All right, so let's say this is how I want my blocks arranged. Yours will be five this way and six this way. So yours would have another two over here and two more rows down here. All right. So you can either pick these up one at a time to take them to the sewing machine, run it through, bring it back, picked this one up, run that through the machine and bring it back. So just sewing the blocks into rows, making sure that you keep the order that your you're looking for. You could do the same thing if you prefer to do the columns so you could sew these two together, come back, pick up that piece, and so that on then. So that on and then So those rows or columns together When you do that, you want to alternate the direction that you, um, press the seams. So if I were sewing the rows together, for example, I would press all of the seams in the first row to the left or right, and the 2nd 1 eyed press in the opposite direction. Third, when I go back to the first direction that center, so I just alternate down. That means that the seams air going to be butted up against each other. And I'll show you that in a minute so that they sort of nestle against each other. All right, the way I like to do it, um is to pick all of these up at once. This, I think, is particularly useful if you're using the top of a bed or the floor, and you have pets, dogs or cats love to help you with your quilting, of course. Or if you've got a spouse that's walking through the the room where it's on the dining room table and you need to have dinner. So I like to be able to pick them all up, and no matter how long it is before I get to putting them together, I always know what I want to do. So first thing I'm going to do is put a pin in the upper left corner of the upper left of my quilt. Then I'm going to just pick up the columns, always putting the new one at the bottom. So this is the top left corner. That's the bottom left corner, and I'm going to do the same thing on the next row and then the same thing on the next row and so on, for however many rows that you have now, I can just take thes and stagger them, and I can actually often I do. Just in case, my brain isn't working very well. One day I will put a pin in the top left corner of each of the stacks. And that way, if something happens and the stacks get turned around, then I know exactly how I had it planned. So these I can pack up and take to retreat. I can just take him over in my sewing table from my design wall. Whatever. And they're ready to go. Here is how I would do that. So I need to bring these two back again. My 1st 2 columns, then back out again. This works for any size, any number of blocks that you're doing for your quilt art. So these two I'm going to Well, actually, I guess I should leftem inspection. Alright, So I'm gonna take these to my sewing machine and I'm going to pick up the 1st 1 on the first column in the 1st 1 on the second con. I can take the pan out on the second column now because it's gonna be attached to this, and I'll know that that's what it's supposed to do when I have blocks that typically will put one of my left knee and the other one on my right knee to so I can keep them oriented and keep them straight. So I'll pick this one up. Lay this one right sides together on it, run it through the machine, not break the thread. Pick up the next to the next pair right sides together. Run it through the machine. My, my presser foot still here Haven't broken the threat. I haven't pulled this out. Still there. And I'm gonna run that one through the machine toe like it to the edge of that. I'm gonna pick up the third pair from that through the machine, right after. And then the next pair, however many you have to the end. All right, so these air now all attached by one thread and that looks something like this. So I have these two columns sewn together, but the rose air not sewn together. They're joined by threads right there that's still attached. If I pick it up, still can't go anywhere, it's all attached. And then I'm ready for the next column. So I pick up the third column here. Now I can take this pin out because I know that's gonna be attached, so it's gonna be oriented. Now I'm going to sure these air opened up and now I'm going to put right sides together. This is the top one of the third column. Run that through the machine. Don't break the thread. Pick up the next one. Run it through the machine. Now, I managed to have green on green there and then run that one through the machine and just keep going until your last one is done. Then that's going to look like this. And I know this is the top left because I have a pin there. And for my little teeny, tiny quilt, this is all I'm going to do. So I know that all of the columns on there and I could actually take that pin up. So now the pressing again In this first row, I've pressed all the seams this direction in this role depressed this direction. This rose that way. And this road is that way. That means that when I put these rows right sides together too. So the rows together than these two seems are opposite Clip that thread so you can see it better. These two seems air opposite. This is folded this way. This one's folded that way so I can nestle those right up against each other, and that just helps to keep them in place. And then I'm probably gonna put a pin in there, especially for a larger quilty Zehr Pretty small pieces, and I could probably get away without it, but and then again, because of the way I have these pressed, he's the opposite click thread usually don't have to clip it to do this. I just want you to see. But this one is pressed that direction swims pressed to my right And so it doesn't matter what you do first, so long as they alternate. So now I can nestle those in right up against each other, and I can feel when they fit up against each other, could put a pin in it. Now I'm going to take it to the machine. And so those rows together And when those air sewn together, I can open that up, put these two right sides together, And if I've alternated the pressing on the Rose and those are gonna nestle together to, that's all there is to it, I have had blocks organized this way for months. And then I go to a retreat and I can pick it up and know exactly where I am and what I'm going to do next. And that's it. When we come back, I will show you a picture off the quilt. When I have finished piecing all the blocks together and you can see what mine looks like. I'll see you back shortly. 7. Finished: 8. Thank you!: Thank you for joining me for the class, Making this window shopping quote. I hope you had fun. I know I did. Please remember to post your block, your quilt, whatever you have finished on your project page. I love seeing the fabrics that people use and I can't wait to see your projects. If you enjoyed the class, please take a minute to write a review. It helps other people who might be interested to find the class as well. Thanks again for joining me. I hope to see you in future classes by