Make a Quilt: "Whatever" | Karen Burns | Skillshare

Make a Quilt: "Whatever"

Karen Burns, The Warped Spinster

Make a Quilt: "Whatever"

Karen Burns, The Warped Spinster

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13 Lessons (1h 32m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Materials and Tools

    • 3. Cutting the 10" Squares

    • 4. Cutting the Accent Strips

    • 5. Anatomy of the Block

    • 6. Sewing the Blocks

    • 7. Arranging the Blocks

    • 8. Sewing the Quilt Top

    • 9. Cutting the Borders

    • 10. The Plan for the Borders

    • 11. Sewing the Borders

    • 12. Finished!

    • 13. FInal Thoughts

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About This Class

Take a pack of 10" squares and some yardage, add cutting and sewing, and create your own 'Whatever" quilt!  You'll learn about:

  1. Using partial seams to create a "spinning" effect in the blocks and borders
  2. Materials
  3. Cutting for the blocks and borders
  4. Sewing
  5. Arranging the blocks in a balanced and pleasing way
  6. Adding borders

Join me to make a quilt in just your style!

This quilt is suitable to beginning quilters, though perhaps not your first quilt.

Meet Your Teacher

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Karen Burns

The Warped Spinster


Hello, and welcome!  I'm Karen, and I'm glad you're here.

I've been making quilts for nearly 50 years, and have been teaching quilting and designing quilts for several years.    In the past year I embarked on designing fabric--because what quilter doesn't love fabric?

I retired from the library world six years ago, and since then have spent more time teaching and designing, and pursuing other interests:  reading, researching history, spinning (fiber) and weaving (hence the Warped Spinster name), knitting, etc., etc.   Basically, I love fiber.

And chocolate. 

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1. Introduction: everybody care in here with the work? Spitzer. Thanks for checking out this quilting glass. We'll be working with the whatever quote what you see behind me here. It's one of my first design, still one of my favorites. What we say that about a lot of my quilts. But it's true. It's a pretty simple quilt. I don't know that it would necessarily be the 1st 1 you'd want to make. But what you get that straight quarter see him under your belt? You'll be good to go. There is one little thing that I'm going to show you in this class, which you may or may not already know about. And that's the partial scene. That's what allows us to spin the sections around the center point. Ordinarily, we like to have a straight seen going all the way across the section, which looks fine here. This looks doable, but this, on the other hand, looks a little iffy. And that's where the partial scene comes in. The partial seem it's easy, easy, easy to do what you know how to do it. It's gonna be great. You can use it for a lot of things, and this this nice spinning effect that I actually used in several of my designs. This quote uses 10 inch squares or 30 10 squares that you use, so if you buy a pack of 10 inch squares, you'll have enough to do this quote. There's also a bit of accent fabric for these dark strips it going between and a little bit of quarter fabric if you choose to put a border on it. And the border actually does the same partial seem effect here, which kind of just carries everything out into the border from the club. It's a lot of fun. Choose a fabric that you really, really love. Something bold and bright, if that's your thing or something more sophisticated on Richard kind of thing I'm going to be doing using the fabric that is a collection that is completely different from this, just so you can see how a couple of different things look with. So I hope you'll join me. I think it's gonna be fun. I'm looking forward to making another one of these, so I hope you will see you in class 2. Materials and Tools: Hi. Welcome. I'm so glad you decided to join me in making this whatever quilt first thing, of course we always want to talk about is materials and supplies. The first step you'll want to take is to download the whatever pattern from the Projects section of this class on the Skill Share website. You'll need to goto a browser and their website. You can't download it from an app on a mobile device. So that's your first step then, Of course, quilters always want to talk about fabric. Always, always, always. I will be using this day in Paris collection from Zen Sheikh at Motta. Nice modern colors that you know, 10 years ago, if you told me that I would like these kind of colors and modern quotes that have said you were a little bit crazy. But I really do love that now, and this has some really nice contrast in colors that I like. That will be fun. You need 38 10 inch squares for this, So if you have a layer cake for Mota or a 10 inch square pack from another company, you'll be fine. They typically have 40. This one actually has 42. In addition to that, you will want some accent fabric if you remember in the introduction that was the dark grey accents strips, and I'm going to be using this teal blue for it. You will need one and in eight yards of that. And then you will also Comptel I'm using with pre cuts shed everywhere. You will also need an inner border fabric and you'll need 1/2 yard of that. I'm going to use the same fabric. I like that sort of frame that it will give that is the same as the accent strips in the block. In addition, you will want fabric for the outer border and binding, and for that, you're going to use two and 1/4 yards and the outer border is unp east, which means we're gonna cut it lengthwise. We'll talk about that so you won't have to piece it. And if you have a big, bold print, oftentimes I don't like to piece that because I don't like to break up that print. I like it to be continuous, so we'll cut it lengthwise. I haven't chosen which fabric I'm going to use for the outer border Sometimes I'm just not sure until I get the quote together, but I will use one of the fabrics from the collection, and at the moment I'm thinking about one of these dark grey fabrics. Maybe something like that that has the pink and the teal in the dark green will pull it all together. My personal preference is usually for a border that is darker rather than light. But that's a personal preference. There are people who like lighter borders as well, so that's what you need for the fabric. You need 38 10 inch squares a yard in an eighth of the except fabric half yard for the inner border, and then the outer border and binding will be to 1/4 yards, and you'll have some left over from that for your stash. Gotta have a stash. You will need a rotary cutting mat here. I've got a quilter select but never healing. Matt you have. And then for rulers. You will want Ah, six by 24 that's mostly to cut your accent strips and border fabrics. But you could also use it to cut your 10 inch square. So this really is the only ruler that you need is a six by 24. I'm also going to be using a six by 12 just because I find it handier. There's less length to be moving around when I'm cutting the 10 inch squares, but you absolutely do not need it. That's you'll just see me using it. Then. If you're a person who likes to square up all of their squares and you have a square perilla, you can certainly use that. I don't think you'll necessarily need it. But if you're somebody likes to square mall up, then by all means use a square up ruler as well. And a rotary cutter, of course, gonna need a rotary cutter 45 60. Um, is fine. Be sure to put in a new blade. I just put a new one in here so proud of myself. I always delay doing that. It's stupid, but I do all right for thread. I'm going to use one of these grays. I usually use a neutral threat. There's no point in trying to match threads when you've got this mini fabric. So not sure which one I'll use, Um, possibly the darker one. We'll see either one would work fine. Then you will also want some nipper, something Teoh clip your threads with, and it's always good to have pins on hand. You may or may not use them, but it's always good to have them on hand. These are really fine. They're called ultra fine from Clover, and I really like them because they slide in so easily. They are very fine and they slide in easily. So I like to use those and I think that's it. We're all ready to go to start with the cutting, so when we come back, we will be doing the cutting for the quote. We'll see you then. 3. Cutting the 10" Squares: before we get started on the actual cutting, I want to point out a couple of things just brief you on how we're going to be cutting these 10 inch squares. They're actually broken up into three different groups. So the first set of cutting the instructions is going to be done on 12 of your 38 10 inch squares. The second set is going to be done on six of those 10 inch squares, six of six MAWR, additional 10 inch squares, and then for the remaining 20 there's 1/3 set of instructions. So on this 1st 1 pull outta picture of the block here, this 1st 1 you have some 3.5 by 6.5. You're gonna cut two of those, and then you're gonna cut some 3.5 inch squares and those air pieces that are going to go into this center section here. So here's the 3.5 by 6.5 here, the to 3.5 inch squares. Then you're also going to be cutting a 2.5 by 9.5 inch strip from those from 12 with those and those air going to be these pieces that go around the outside here, then, from six of the 10 inch squares you're gonna be doing four, 3.5 inch squares and those air more pieces for here. For these, you need twice as many of these as you do those, of course. So that's why you're cutting some more from these and then Maurer of the 2.5 by 9.5. So it's just spreading it out to make most efficient use of the tenants squares that you have and also to give you more variety in those pieces. So you are cutting them all from the same square. And then for the final 20 you're going to be cutting these nine at 2.5 by 9.5 inch squares that are going around here. So just remember, you've got a set of 12 squares, six squares and then the remaining 20 squares, and they have different cutting for those. All right, so we're ready to get started on the cutting and my first section here I'm going to be doing on 12 of the 10 inch squares and first of all, I'm going to do with 3.5 inch cut all the way across. Then another 3.5 inch cut all the way across, and then I'm going to step. Cut those into a 3.5 by 6.5 and a 3.5 inch square, so each of those I'm going to do that same way. And then, finally, I've got the 2.5 by 9.5 inch strip. If it will help you to turn the instructions so that it's going the way that you're going to cut, that's perfectly acceptable. Might be a smart thing to do. This is motor, so I know that when I'm doing my measuring, I want to aim for the center of the pink edge. So between halfway between the peak and the valley of the pink edge, this is a fairly small pink edge, so it's less critical. There are some manufacturers that have pretty good sized pink edges, and you want to check to make sure where you need to measure from, so I know that on voters, typically, it's from center to center of the pink is gonna be my 10 inches. Let me see if that's true for this one. Now that I've said that, let's double check it. And these air actually bigger than 10 inches so I can measure inside of those that pink edge or wherever I want to measure it. And I will still have enough. Okay, Cool. First time I've seen one that's a little larger than it. All right, so now I've got three and I'm cutting this untended squares. I'm not going to do all of them at once. 12 of those squares and I just layered three here, and I've made sure that they're all lined up really well. And my 1st 1 is going to be a 3.5 by 6.5 or 3.5 wide Sorry. And going all the way across. So I'm going to line up my 3.5 inch line over here. Stick my think Pink thinking my pinky. You can't see it here, but my pinky finger is off. The here is off the edge of the ruler. That keeps me from putting that finger so far over that it's in danger from my cutter. And my hand is sprawled so that it covers the whole length of this ruler I have control. It's not going to slip. This is also a very nice nonslip ruler. All right, so then I'm going to double check to make sure I've got 3.5 and I'm gonna cut that strip. I'm sitting down to cut. You will see that my wrist is at an awkward angle, and that's hard on my carpal tunnel, so I don't I will do that on camera, but I don't do that. As a rule, I'm usually standing up at the proper height so that it doesn't I haven't got my wrist cart so badly. All right, Now I'm doing the same thing again. Another 3.5 inch strips when layering up 3.5 here they were gonna that and then my last strip that I'm cutting from this is 2.5. So I'm gonna line my 2.5 inch line up on the edge that are just cooked. And then that I don't know if you're into really narrow pieces, you can do whatever you want with that strip. All right, Now for the seven cutting for these two. The 1st 2 3.5 inch wide strips that we cut, We're going to sub cut those the same way. So you can either do the 3.5 inch square or the 6.5 inch square first. If you do, um, if your square is actually 10 inches exactly, you can cut just one of them and the other one will be automatically the same size. But as thes are a little bit off. I'm going to. I'm so used to measuring from the center of thes pinks that I'm gonna continue to do the same thing. And it's a 3.5 inch square and tried to make it four that will check yourself. So there's 3.5 inches, and now I'm going to do the 6.5, so I'm gonna have to turn my ruler, and I am gonna have a little bit here. I do want this cutting to be accurate. It will make my squares go together easily and just make me a much happier camper. All right, so there is my 3.5 and 6.5. And I would do the same thing for this piece. Then, on the 2.5 inch strip, I want it to be 9.5 inches. So I'm gonna line up my 9.5 inch over here and trim off. That should be half an inch down. Okay, so that's how I'm gonna do 12. A total of 12 of the tenants squares. They're gonna be done that way. All right, then, for six of the 10 inch squares, I'm going to be cutting for 3.5 inch square. So again, I'm gonna cut 3.5 inch strip 3.5 inch strip and then step, cut those into 3.5 inch squares. I'll have more left over here and then another 2.5 that I'm then gonna set cut into 9.5. So let me grab a couple here. Just do a couple so I don't have to spend time on camera lining these up for you. So just grab a couple on and then they all right. You could see both of those pretty well on camera. All right, so now this one again, you can turn your instructions. If you want to follow with that again, I'm doing 3.5. So online up my 3.5 inch line on the edge, doing my standard middle of the pink. But you use whatever edge you determined works for your squares, and then a double check. It's 3.5, 3.5 in the 3.5 strip and then a 2.5 inch strip. So this one is going to be cut 9.5 like we did on the first set of cutting that was quite naked. Go. So there's that. And then for these, I'm going to be cutting 3.5 inch squares, double checking and 3.5 okay. And then I have this leftover I'm actually going to cut. You don't have to do this, but I have a stash of 2.5 inch squares because soon, many quote patterns use 2.5 inch squares. These days, I'm just gonna cut that and have it ready to go in my 2.5 inch stash. All right. You don't need those for the quilt. Just do that while it's handy. All right, So now this one again, I'm gonna cut to 3.5 inch squares from it and lined up my 3.5 check. It's 3.5, and I'm also when I'm cutting this, I'm also lining up one of the perpendicular lines. And that way I know I'm getting myself square here. And if I'm not square than I, straighten up this edge and cut again. All right, so there's my 3.5 inch squares. They're with me. When I do the 2.5 inch, it's It's nice if you've got leftovers like this that you don't have another use. Fourth, um, that you cut into pretty standard sizes. 2.5. I actually go. A small is 1.5 for a piece. I'm working on five inch squares. You'll run across a lot of patterns that use those dimensions, and it's kind of nice just to make use of those scrap that you scratch that you have. All right, so now, for the remaining 20 of our 38 10 inch squares. We're going to just cut 4 2.5 inch strips and then set cut those so that their 2.5 by 9.5. So let me grab a couple more squares here. Colors I haven't used yet. But marry, let's do a light one here and then something on top of it that you'll be able to see. Let's do a great Yeah, Great. Okay, so I'm gonna line these up and again. You going to do this with 20? I'm only doing to so that you don't have to watch me later. Things up exactly here. Okay, that lined up best It's going to do here. All right, So now I'm going to be cutting 4 2.5 inch strips. It's on double checking. I've got 2.5 now. I can pull this piece off and cut another 2.5, or I can slide it over to five, because 2.5 by 2.5 is five. So I can cut another 2.5 inch strip. Or if that confuses you, you can just keep removing a strip after you've cut it. So now that my 2.5 lined up here and since this isn't quite it's a little more than 10 inches square, I will have a little bit left, which is to trim off some of that there. It's just a little bit of fraud. All right, then, for each of these, I'm going to cut. That isn't lined up so well, so I'm going to trim that lift. And then I'm going to do a more exact night and 1/2 lining up for particular line as well as that line. Always close your rotary cutter when you set it down, and then I would do the same thing with the rest of these 2.5 inch strips. All right, so you will end up with 3.5 inch squares 2.5 by 9.5 inch strips and then some 3.5 by 6.5 inch so you work your way through your 38 squares doing those. Then we have the accent. OKay, 4. Cutting the Accent Strips: all right, have raised the camera a little bit, but I can't raise it high enough free to be able to see the whole thing, so I'll just move the fabric around a bit. All right, So I am going to be straightening up this edge. I'm right handed, and I'm doing it on the right side just to straighten up the edge. And I'm going to take my six by 24 in Troller and at the bottom here. I've got the fold at the bottom. I'm going to line up one of my perpendicular lines here on that fold, and that's going to ensure that I've got a straight cut that I'm not gonna have an elbow when I unfold that fabric. So I'm going to line up a perpendicular line here, and then I need to make sure that I'm really straightening this edge and that I'm catching the edge that's underneath. You can see it's a little bit shorter than this. Top it. It's just the way it came off. The bolt happens all the time, but I do want to straighten that out. So I'm going to lying things up, and I know you can't see the whole thing here, but it's just a pretty standard cut that you're all used to. And then I'm going to my little pinky off here. And as soon as I get here, I've lost control of the ruler because I only have control of it for as long as my hand is . So I'm gonna walk my hand up, then walking up 1/3 time, all right? And now I've got the straightened edge, and I still have my finger intact. All right, So now I can either turn my Matt or the fabrics. I'm gonna turn my map if you're left handed. You're doing this the opposite way. So now I can line up the ruler over here, and I'm gonna check my pattern and see how why this is gonna be these air. The accent strips. And it tells me I need 24 strips that are 1.5 inches by the width of fabric. Wolof means with the fabric. So it's from salvage to solve it. That's as it comes off the bolt, going from edge to edge. All right, so now I'm gonna line up my 1.5 inch line along my straightened edge here, and it's just a straight 1.5 inch cut again. I'm going to be walking my hand up so I'm not losing control of the ruler. These Coulter's select really are pretty non slip, but safety first and you don't want to do a miss cut. All right, so I got my 1.5 inch. There's another half inch so I will just keep cutting those until I have and it tells me 24 of those. I'm going to take thes 22 of these 2.5 inch strips, and I'm going to layer them on top of each other and line them up nicely. One of the disadvantages of cutting multiple layers is that it takes you're tryingto line them up Well, do too many layers. It's almost easier to cut them individually. All right, so these air my salvage ends and I want to trim off that salvage because salvages there also are woven tighter. Generally, Then the rest of the fabric throws things off, so I'm going to trim off those salvage edges. I'm gonna flip this over. If you're left handed, you're actually gonna be cutting that way, but right handed. Flip it here and then double checking my instructions. It says I need to cut the's at 9.5 inches long. So my folded edge is over here, and my just trimmed edge is over here. So I'm gonna find my 9.5 inch. I'm switching over to my six by 12. But you can use six by 24. Absolutely. So I'm gonna find my 9.5 inch line and line that up on the cut edge and then a perpendicular line along here. So I know I'm doing a square cuts a double checking that I'm at 9.5, but that so I have four strips there, and now I'm going to do another 9.5 inch cut again, lining up the 9.5 inch line and then also a perpendicular line, checking for 9.5 That and now I have eight of these, except strips to 1.5 by 9.5 inches. This is 1.5. I also do a 1.5 inch stash. So you didn't do that someday I'll be happy I did that. All right, so that's it. You're gonna go through all 24 of your strips and cut them into 1.5 by 9.5 inch strips. Finish all your tenant square, cutting all your accent cutting, and then we're ready to start sewing box. I'll see you then. 5. Anatomy of the Block: Let's take a look at the anatomy of a block before we start putting it together so we understand where we're going. For each block you're going to need to 3.5 inch squares that you cut from a 10 inch square . 1 3.5 by 6.5 4 2.5 by 9.5 inch strips and then four of your accent strips that air 1.5 by 9.5 we build it from the center out. So first we're going to. So these 2 3.5 inch squares together, and then we're going to So a 6.5 3.5 by 6.5 to those and that forms our center section and the other pieces of them going to sort of spin around that. So we're going to make a little bit larger units with these 9.5 inch strips, so you're going to take an accent strip, and so it to one long edge of one of your 2.5 by yes. 2.5 by 9.5 inch strips and then you're going to do that for all of them. Thes accent strips are going to go on the inside. It doesn't matter what decided you sew them on, but once you start sewing them into the block, you need them to be on the inside. So we're going to have these going around this way, which means that you're going to start that. And you've got this bit hanging out over here, and this spins around like this, which is the part that looks a little bit gamey. But what we're going to do is start with this one and so just a partial seen from here to here, and we're gonna leave this flapping. So that's gonna be just imagine that turned back. So this is stitched here. Now we've got a straight seen that weaken do down here. Once he seems get taken up, these will actually line up. And then So that went on. So we've got a straight line going across here, and now we bet a straight line going up here when we so this one on it's going to meet up here. And now, miraculously, we have a straight line across there so we can finish that scene. So that's how your partial seems is going to work. We will go over that as we're doing the sewing. I just wanted you to see where we were going with this. So essentially, we're going to first of all, So these two squares together, then we're gonna sell that together and make a small block. Then we're gonna be sewing these accent strips onto the 2.5 by 9.5. So that's those are gonna be our first steps when we so and then we'll start talking about the partial scene, so I will see you at the sewing machine. 6. Sewing the Blocks: my trusty father. He is ready to go. I've got it set up to. So 1/4 inch A scant quarter inch seem which is just a couple of threats shy of 1/4 inch seem. First thing we're gonna do is take are 2 3.5 inch squares. Line them up, right sides together and then so 1/4 and seem along one edge. You don't have to Duthie back and forth stitch at the beginning because that same is going to be crossed over by another scene. If I were doing a lot of blocks, I could do them. Just keep feeding them through for these pieces. But is to show this one block and I'm going Teoh press that same in either direction Doesn't matter one direction. You can actually press it open. If you like to press seems open. I'm gonna press it toward the darker. In this case, it won't shadow through as much as it would on the light. So I'm gonna press that to the Teeley Turquoise e color. And then our next step is to take our 3.5 by 6.5 and stitch that to the side of it. So again, I'm going to line it up right sides together. And I'm going to put a couple pins in just for safety sake, to make sure I end up where I want to end up at the other end. And then to make sure that that seem is going to stay turned under back there and again. That's just gonna be a scan. Turns out before I get to them again, I don't have to do the stay stitching on either end because I'm gonna have seems that cross over it. And now I'm going to press to the direction of the least resistance, which is toward the piece that doesn't have a c minute. So I'm gonna press it to the 3.5 by 6.5 inch scene, and that's our center block. Many block finished our center section, so my next step is going to be taking my accent strips that are 1.5 by 9.5 and my 2.5 by 9.5 inch strips, and I'm going to so an exit strip to the long side of each of those four, and I'll speed up the video. Once I get going here, you need to watch me doing rial. Time seems on these again. I don't need to stay stitch. Beginning and end. Now all my accent strips have been attached and it doesn't again. Doesn't matter which way you press the seams. Just be consistent. I'm pressing them toward the accent strips. It's a subtle little thing, but I want those to stand out a little bit from the surface and it's quite settled. But in my mind, it seems toe. Accent it a little differently. A little better now. This is the part where we start doing the partial scene. You're going to take one of your extended strip strips and your center piece, and with right sides together, you're going to lay the edge of an accent strip along the edge of your center unit. Go ahead and put a pin in down here. If you like, you'll notice it's hanging off the edge here. That's OK. We want that. You just want to line up the top edge up here. Then you're going to so just maybe halfway. So you're going to start up the top here. And so just about halfway down this piece so you can see this whole piece here. I'm gonna so down to about there and stop. I don't have to lock the top, but I am gonna lock at the bottom when I finished, so remind myself to I'm gonna lock that stitch for it. So now I have a partial scene, and I don't have to worry about that again for the next three sewing things in the next three stitching sets I'm going to do all right. So if I fold this back, I'm just gonna finger press this toward this except strip again. That's the least resistance because they says the seam in the middle of it. And this one does not. So to avoid having to fullback that seem in that book, I'm going to press it toward that accent stir. So now I've got a straight shot across here. I can take my next accent strip and fitted across that seem, and it fits. One always rejoices when things fit so that together, and I'm gonna line up this end as well. And then just make sure that I seems you're gonna be OK. Here's the thing. When you're sewing this seem as it's going through, the machine might catch because it's going this direction so that edge might catch. So I often will go ahead and just pin that to make sure it doesn't get turned down when it catches. This seem is going to be fine because it's just gonna push it down that way. But the next seem again. This could catch and get pulled down, so I'll put a pin in that all right again. I don't need toe lock down at the beginning, you seem take out my pins if I come to them before I covered him. Hopefully, if it's going to be between my finger getting sewn or the pin getting zone, I will er on the side of the spin, Of course, much. Try to remove them before I get there. All right. You can lock down the ends if you wish to. I often don't, frankly, because they're going to stay long enough for me to cross over them with something else. All right, so now when I pulled that back and I'm gonna press toward that strip again, it has started that spin around the center. So then let me press that here. And then we're ready to put on the next to pieces before they come back. Teoh our personal seem so now this piece is going to fit there and I will come back after I finish this one. Try to speed through this last week that showed on and now we're here. Now, when I pull this piece over, you can see I can finish that seem because I've got a straight shot across there. Take where your magic Where you can find it, As I see now, I can pick up that same where I left off and finish it off to the end. And now I can do a final press on it all, which I will do with a bigger iron. But for the moment, here's the black. See if I can hold it out further now, as work when we come back home, Maybe this will there, that's better. So that's finished, Block. You're going to continue to do that and you're going to end up with 24 blocks and if you like to square things up, then you would square this up to 12.5 inches. We'll finish it 12 but we want to square these up to 12.5 inches. I'll see how my look, if they look like they're 12.5 inches, I won't bother with the squaring up, but you want to decide that for yourself. So that's one block out of 24. 23 to go done in just the same way. Be sure you mix up your fabrics so you have a good variety in each block. You may have noticed when I was doing putting these pieces on, I decided to do this one over here instead of amassing so much teal in one spot. So I put that on the opposite side, couldn't put it down there, but I just didn't want to have that whole stretch of teal together. So just play with the fabrics, organized them any way you want and make 23 more blocks. When we come back, I will talk about how you're gonna put all of these together and then we'll talk about porters. Have fun, she in a while 7. Arranging the Blocks: Welcome back. Here's my stack of finished blocks, with the exception of nine that I have started to lay out to see how they look together before we start arranging these on the design wall or the floor, or wherever you're going to start arranging them. A couple of things I want to point out to you in terms of this structure, this sort of spinning structure, it doesn't matter how you turn these because it's always going to be the left side is this way, and then that goes off horizontally. So no matter how you turn it, that's going to stay the same, so you don't need to worry about that. A couple other things you might want to look at first of all is this center section here where we started piecing this together. It's not symmetrical, so one side is with a single strip, and this is two squares. When you lay this out, you may choose to pay attention to that, and always make sure that, for example, the two squares are on in the same place in each block and lay out all of your blocks that way, or you could decide you just don't care. You kind of like the funkier look where you could do it any other way. On the sample Quote that I showed you at the beginning with the kind of fun, wild, bright fall colors. I had them all going the same direction. So they were all laid out with the two right squares in the same place on the right hand side, were in the same place. This one, I think I'm going to swap it up for a couple of reasons. I like that. That look a little more, I think, for this particular pattern, but also because I have some stark differences contrasts in darks and lights. So, for example, I have these very dark pieces and these very light pieces I didn't have as much value contrast in the other quote in this one. I do. So I'm going to care about how many of these dark pieces go together because the darks all read as dark, especially in comparison to the others. So if I start lining up to many of these in one spot, it's going to throw off the balance. If I end up with that, a group of blocks that are mostly light or don't have any dark or maybe have to darks in one light. So I happen to have a lot of darks here, So this may or may not be what you want. If you got contrast, you may want to kind of group the black, the very dark ones, um, against the very light ones, you're seeing the meat thes as black. I think in there actually a dark gray or a very dark blue. So that's just a decision that you can go ahead and make the other thing, actually that just Segways into try and distribute the darks and lights or the color, So I would not, For example, I would definitely not want to put these two together. They're the same print, Unless that's the look you want. I try to avoid doing that. I may have a similar dark. I probably wouldn't even do that. I probably wouldn't for the look that I want, I probably wouldn't put too darks right together like that. I want to distribute them a little more than that for the quote that I'm going to do. So that's just something to kind of keep in mind has your doing this in some. This one, I have the same print. One's a little darker than this one. You may not be able to see that, hon. You're on the screen, but this one is like a dark blue, actually very dark navy blue. And this is a dark gray, so I may not want to put these two prints close to each other. Or maybe I do. Maybe I want to group those together for my choices, though I'm not gonna put those close together If I have a choice. This isn't so bad. They're not right next to each other. So in the way that I want to lay things out, that would be all right, except that I probably wouldn't use the same print indefinitely. Wouldn't have the same coloring in fabric on both of them. So you're gonna lay these out. However, it's pleasing to you whether you wanna have consistent placement of the centers. If you want a group similar fabrics or distribute them, however you want to do what I honestly most often if you don't have a preference. I would try distributing the, um, high contrast fabrics. Um, sort of all around the quilt, so the eye moves around instead of I'm going to one particular place. So you're gonna lay these out in a four by six configuration. You've got 24 blocks, so you will have, um, six rows of four blocks each. And if you got them on the design wall on the floor on the spare bed, whatever. Just keep arranging them until it is pleasing to you. When you have things distributed the way you want them to be. You may want to walk away for a few minutes our to next day, whatever works for you and come back and look at it again and see if you see anything. It could also be helpful to take a photograph, because that somehow makes things much easier and you get a little different perspective on it, particularly if you have. If you're laying it out horizontally, it's honestly, it looks different vertically, so you might want to take a photo of it, and then you'll see it vertically when you hold up the phone with the camera or whatever. So give that a try. If you've got friends who have a pretty good idea, pretty good I or a partner or spouse who has a good eye, Have them take a look at it. Sometimes when you've been working with it for a long time, you start not seeing things. And, um, someone else can come in and say, you know what that one is is out of place. Try switching that around all different ideas for how you can lay this out. This'd is my initial layout for thes 24 blocks. I'm thes air justice. They came off the stack. I didn't do any rearranging or shifting things around because I wanted to you to see how an initial thing might look overall. Not too bad. I see some spots that have more of the really dark next to each other than I necessarily care for. And one of the reasons I didn't turn her shift things which I ordinarily would do as I was laying him out, to be honest with you. But for example, here you can see that I've got three of the same print right next to each other, and that's not a look I want. So I might just rotate this one. Mike Court's gonna get in the way there, and that's better in terms of those greens. But now I have two of the same very dark print, the exact same print across from each other, and I don't like that look. So I'll keep swapping things around until I find an arrangement that I like and it may take a while time not going to lie to you. It can take a while. Another spot. I see here are these two pinks. They aren't the same print, but they look close enough, even pretty close up. They're quite close. It's the very same pink and a smaller kind of print on it, so that I might want to rearrange. And I'm seeing some concentration of the really dark that I don't like. I got a lot right around in here, so I probably will rearrange those a bit. So it's a matter of just moving some blocks. Sometimes it's just rotating them. If you are choosing to let the centers fall where they may, if you are wanting to have the centers, um, situated in the same direction in all of the blocks, then you will need to be moving blocks around rather than just trying to rotate them. And I see Cem a pink strip all in a row. Up here, standing back does wonder. So this whole grow up there is just a pink strip all the way across. So I have some rearranging to do here, Opie. See another spot up here where I have the same print here and here and then up there and again. That's not a look I want. If you want to try and put all of those together and see how it looks, you could certainly do that. And now I see a strip of three that are all dark across here. So I have some reorganizing to do here. I'll come back and show you what I finally decide on. All right. I took a photo, looked at the photo, sat down with some lunch, contemplated. It's awesome spots I wanted to change. I also interesting. I have a design wall down in my quilting studio, and I've chosen to lay it out here in the living room instead of down there because the light just isn't good down there. So I usually see things vertically interesting with this. When I walked Teoh, the other end of it. I saw that down here. There was a huge concentration of pinks, and I hadn't seen that when I was right up close here with it. So taking a photo walking around. If you've got it on the floor, the bed can help you see, Cem things that you want to change. I have this arranged. I think pretty much how I'm going to do it. I could keep rotating blocks and swapping them around, but it wouldn't really make it better. It would just make it different. Good. So I'm going to call this good. And now I'm going to start stacking up by column stacks and get it ready to take to the machine. 8. Sewing the Quilt Top: Now we're at the point. We're ready to start sowing the blocks together. We've arranged them on the bed on the floor of the design will. Wherever we have them arranged, you will have four by six for this demonstration. I'm just going to do with three by four will give you the information that you need. But you don't have to watch me missing with more blocks. Pretend these air blocks now. So I have three of, uh I'm sorry. Four rows of three blocks here you'll have four by six. There are a number of ways you can sew these together. The most obvious, of course. And the way that many people like to do it is to just so this block to that one and then this block to that one. Then go to the next drill and set that aside and go to the next row and do the same thing. Works perfectly fine in all cases, everything that I show you here. You want to press the seams in alternating directions on alternating rows. So if I press these to the right when I do this row, I'm gonna press those seems to the left to the right and to the left alternate those That makes it much easier when you go to put the roads together. They will. Those seems will mess together. You'll see that in a minute. You can also do the same thing, of course, with columns where you so they used together and in that one and that one set that column aside, do the next one and then so the next one. So those together that works perfectly fine, too. In that case, you may want to. You're probably so one direction by going up on one road down in the other room open an extra. The way that I do it, however, is sometimes I have a quote that I've laid everything out. I'm not ready to sell the blocks together, and it may be months. I hate to say years, but sometimes years down the road, when I actually get around to sewing the blocks together, or I may be packing up for retreat and I want to so it at a friend's house when I got a small group or I'm going to retreat and I want to make sure I know how those blocks go together so well, range them at home where I have the room to do it, and then I can sell them when I go to the retreat. So what I do is to take this first row and stack them so that the top block is always on the top of that room. Then I'm going to pin those together, and I always put the pin in the upper left corner because that tells me that weighs out. If things get shifted around and it ends up with this, where the pins down below? I just know I have to spin it around and wherever that to be correct. And then I'll do the same thing with the next column. Cand put a pin in that and then the same thing for the final colander and put a tenant. Now, when I go to the machine to sew these, I don't make sure that all of my pans air in the upper left corner. And then I said this. Take the 1st 2 rows, set the others aside. It's helpful. I usually, frankly do a little note here, a little scrap of paper that has a number on it so This is Bieber. 12 and three columns. Excuse columns. 123 All right. So I'm gonna take. Wanted to make sure my pins air in the upper left corner. Then I can take out those pins. Blocks are usually larger than this. So I have this one next to my sewing machine ready to go in this one I put on my left. Sorry, my right leg or my right knee in this configuration. Then I'll pick up the 1st 1 and then the 1st 1 from the second column. The other stack Run that through the machine, and I don't clip the thread. Then I pick up the next two. So the top one from column one and the top one from second column and without breaking the thread, I run that through the machines. So these are now seemed, and there's a thread connecting them still. Then, Aziz, you might guess I'm going to do the same thing with the rest of the blocks in those two columns on that through the machine, without breaking the thread. Run that through the machine without breaking the thread. So now I have this strain here, and I have a set somewhere. Where have done that? All right, so now I have looks already had a pin see? Cut myself. All right, so this was actually in my upper left corner because I still have a pin there. And now these are so together and they're strung together as well. Now I'm going to take this third column, one that I had set aside I could take the pin out of there. Now, this is gonna be by machine. This is going to go on to my right leg. Now, This time I'm gonna pick up the top one from I said I'm sewing on and run that through the machine. Don't break this rid pick up the next one. Run that through the machine. Don't break the thread and so on. So I continue to string these together because I'm not breaking threads in between doing that. And I'll keep doing that for as many columns as I have, and then I end up with something that looks like this. I trimmed those. I'll show you why I turned those so those would actually be attached here. So now I'm going to press the's in alternate directions, so on the top one. I'm gonna thes air all pressed to the left on this one. I pressed them all to the right, Left right. These are all hung together. Pretend that when it is, too. And now I'm going to sew these rows together. So all I have to do is take this 1st 1 flip it back. And this is why I had cut those threads for a previous demo. Sometimes it's easier to now clip those threats that string them together. And now these two seems locked together. They butt up against each other because we press them in opposite directions. They're going to butt up against each other. I can put a pin in it. Actually, I usually do, just to be sure it doesn't shift when I take it to the machine or when I'm so aims to make sure those are. But it together, I can either pull it back and see that they're together. Or I can feel I can just kind of, well, them around until they fit. And then I'm gonna take that to the machine. And sometimes, frankly, when you got a larger quilter, larger blocks, you got a lot of stuff going on over here. But just maneuver it in, and then you're going to do you 1/4 inch seem that way. Then when those air so together, of course, I will do the next one, and then I have my top altogether. So that's the way I do that. You, of course, do it. Whichever whatever way makes sense for you. If you want to do it block by block, sewing them together, putting it back on the design wall. You designed space, putting another block to make sure it's placed correctly and coming back. Whatever you're comfortable doing. My column stacks are stacked and ready to be put aside until I'm ready to work on them, take to a retreat or just go down to my sewing machine. I have penned each of them in the upper left corner through all the layers through all the blocks and put a post it note with the number of the column. So if they somehow as I am taking them out of a bed or moving them downstairs, I dropped them or something happens to them, then I always know how to get them back into the orientation that I need to sell them together because the upper left corner is always the one with the pin and the number on it , and the number tells me the order of the columns so they're ready to go, and I'm ready to go down to the sewing machine. I want to point out one thing that I didn't show earlier, and you may or may not have noticed as you're doing the sewing, you don't have to match any seams here. I sort of planned it that way. I won't say that was my intent when I started out, but I decided that this it's always nice when you want to put a quote together in a relatively quick fashion. It's good to not have to match up the seem so you don't have to match up. This seemed to anything that's just a straight piece of fabric in the same up here. Now, if they're too far off, obviously that's gonna look a little wonky. But if they're that far off, then it's probably a good idea to review your sewing or you're cutting or something. But that's one of the beauties of this pattern is that you don't have to match. Seems when you're putting the blocks together doesn't mean you don't want to be accurate. You still want to have it start and end together, so you may still want to pin them. But at least you don't have to match. Seems so. I am ready to take these down in the machine, so I'm just going to stack him up 123 and four and head down to my studio to so these together. I'll see you when I have the quote top together and we're ready to do the borders. And here's the main part of the quote top all pieced and pressed. I'm pretty happy with how I did the final arrangement on it. I think the colors are pretty well distributed. It's time to do the borders now, and I'm just back from my local quilt shop where I bought the fabric for the outer border. Let's move on to the borders 9. Cutting the Borders: welcome back and welcome to the border portion of our program. My quilt top, as you saw is all pieced and pressed and ready to go. My inner border you saw before. I'm going to use the same accent fabric that I used in the blocks. So I've got 1/2 yard of that. And then I'm just back from my local quote shop where I purchased this fabric for the outer border. I tried lighter fabrics, and I decided that I really liked this best. Some people like lighter borders. Some people like darker borders. I'm usually on the darker border side of it. Either one is right or wrong. It's just what your personal preferences. But I like this dark border to really frame it and set it off well, So we're going to start cutting for the borders, and the first thing we're gonna cut is for the inner border, and this is going to be cut by with the fabric, which is what we're used to cutting its as it comes off the bold. You're doing it from salvaged to salvage, and there's a fold in the middle, so that's W 00 F. Or with the fabric, and my pattern tells me that I need to cut eight strips that are 1.5 inches by the with the fabric, so I will get my microphone cord out of the way so I don't cut that and also try to keep my head out. Picture. All right, So the first thing I need to do is to make sure I square up this edge. So I'm just going to turn my maps. It's I'm right handed. I'm going to square up on this side, and as always, I'm going to be lining up a perpendicular line on this fold so I don't get the dreaded elbow full there, and then just this is actually pretty straight already a little bit and head end. Trim that off. Now I can turn the mad around without disturbing the fabric line up my 1.5 inch line on the cut I just made make sure down at the fold here that I've got a perpendicular line just as a double check. And I'm going to keep cutting until I get 8 1.5 inch strips. When I'm finished with that, I assume you don't want to watch from doing that. I will be back to talk about cutting the outer borders. Or again, you're gonna cut eight of thes strips that air 1.5 inch by the width of fabric. I finished cutting my inner border pieces time for the outer border because I have chosen this large print border. And just because in general, I don't like to peace outside borders, and particularly for this quilt and this fabric, I don't want to piece it, which means that I'm going to have to start out with a much longer piece of fabric than I would ordinarily have if I were cutting by the with the fabric so usually we would be cutting like this. Just a zit comes off the bolt. So here's the full down here, and we would be cutting strips here and then because these air only you know fortyish inches long. Then we would have to piece them in order to get 72 inches or whatever length you want for your quilt. If I did that and I piece things, then I would end up with a situation where things would not meet exactly so I'd have a seem that looked like this, and it just breaks it up too much. So I've written the pattern so that you were cutting it by the length of fabric. So again, this is how we ordinarily would do it. Here's the fold here the two salvages instead, We're going to do it the other way so that we're cutting all along this length, which means we're gonna take the two ends. This is two and 1/4 inches yard. It's way out on two and 1/4 inches yard two and 1/4 yards, so I'm going to take the two ends. It's that I'm folding this the long way. So it's the same salvage folded back on itself and lined up. So now I've got the entire length of this with one fold. There are two ways you can go about cutting it by length of fabric because it's going to be longer than your ruler. Um, one way you can do it is to fold it another time. So here, and depending on how long this length is, then you might be able to cut it that way when you do that, and I've certainly done it that way. Me, myself, fold it up here when you do that. All right. Now I've got it so that it's, you know, roughly what I had with the with the fabric. So first thing you have to be sure is that there's no that this is a clean full back here. There are no folds or anything in there. And then now you've got to folds that you need to keep track of. So remember, we always line up a perpendicular line on the ruler to make sure that we don't get that elbow fold. But now we've got to fold. So we have one here and one up here, so I need to adjust this. First of all, I have to straighten up this edge. Once you've straightened the edge. It's not really an issue, but you've got to get this straight with no elbows in him. So I need to line it up down here, and then I also need to line it up and make sure that it's straight up here and it isn't. It's not far off, but it's enough far off. So then I would have to shift the fabric, and that's better, but we're still not there. So I have to shift the fabric down this way a bit, which is gonna affect this fold again. So this ends up being in some ways more handy because you don't have to doing a long cut and get that line straight. And in some ways, it's more fussy because you have to line up to folds. All right, so I've got this in a place where you could cut it this way and it should be straight. I've got a perpendicular line here and a perpendicular line matched up appear. And that should work. Um, so you can do it that way. If you are right handed, even bunch of the fabric, fold it and bring it over here. This is looking pretty good, actually. Let me slide it. Well, I want to make sure I cut off the salvages. I'm gonna check to make sure again, remember, you never want us. So with the salvages on their different density, we've and it often has holes in it. Different color, whatever. So you want to make sure that you cut off the salvages when you're straightening, and now I can turn it around and do my cuts, so that's one way that you can do it. And the cuts that were making for these, my pattern tells me, are 3.5 inches wide by the length of fabric. So that's one way you can do it The other way that you can cut the fabric is to unfold one of those fold. So I folded it lengthwise, but I folded it just once. So I have the full here and then more fabric there. So I'm gonna lay that out and, as always, then I'm going to use a perpendicular line along the fold of the fabric and make sure that I'm going to catch edge of the fabric all the way up. And then I'm going to cut as far as I can with this one set of the ruler pullback that trimmed edge. And I'm going to carefully shift my fabric so that I can see the rest of it on. The rest of it is up there, and I want to use my ruler. Line that up along the edge that I've cut, and I'm gonna line that up carefully, and I'm going to give it enough along here that when I continue cutting, it's gonna follow that same line. If I just have a little bit here lined up, then it's very easy for me to shift that a little bit one way or the other, because I don't have enough reference down here. But if I give myself mawr length to make sure that I've got that running in line here and even if it means I have to make another cut, that's all right. I want to make sure that I'm getting this cut because straightening this edge is defining that straight line that I'm going to use to cut the pieces from. So I'm going to cut. I'm gonna have to do one more and I'll do the same thing. Shift the fabric down carefully and I got a lot lots of ruler length here, tow line up there and then I can do that. Final cut. I missed the beginning there. All right, so now I've got a straight edge that I can use to cut my 3.5 inches. Shift this around. Sorry if I keep getting my head in the shop here. That's the thing about an overhead camera, all right, and I'm double checking. I think it's 3.5. But Pattern does say, in fact, yes. Four strips, 3.5 inches. Now this edge I've got straightened up. I took plenty of time to make sure that was straight, so now I can just follow this edge. I'm still going to check myself down here at the bottom with a perpendicular line just to make sure I'm well lined up there. Then make sure that my 3.5 inch line it's just along that straightened edge. Move up. Pull the fabric down carefully, trying not to shift it much. And I did shifted a little there, so I'll put it back in place. So I'm sure those cut edges meet perfectly. And then I can finish my 3.5 inch cut, see if I could do this without getting my head. And nope, apparently not. And then I can finish that cut and then I'll cut three more. Once I have cut those 3.5 inch strips and I'm cutting four of those, one for each side. Then I'm also from the same fabric folded lengthwise. I'm going to cut four strips that are 2.5 inches wide for the binding. We may as well use as much of this two and 1/4 length of fabric as we can. Once you do that, you're still gonna have some left over from the width of the fabric. But you can use that for other projects. Put it in your stash, or you can also use it as part of the backing. If you want a piece you're backing, you can can put that in, or you can make a little wider border. If you want. It's up to you, all right, so I'm going to off camera, do the rest of the cutting here, and then we're going to talk about how we put these borders together. It's a little different than how we often do borders, and but it's in keeping with how we pieced the quote top. See you back here for sewing 10. The Plan for the Borders: when we're attaching the borders, we are going to do just what we did on the blocks. So we get this kind of spinning effect. So this is one border piece that ends here, just as we did with the blocks. We're going to start out doing a partial seen here, so it's going to start here. We're gonna do a seem to wherever halfway down, however far you want to do it, and then your next strip is going to go across here and it's gonna end here and then your next strip. And here and then when you come back and attach this strip, then you finish off. This seem so. It's just the same as the blocks that you did. When you're usually figuring a border, you figure out the length from here to here. This is the main body of the quilt, measuring that always measuring in the center. Measure that and then you cut your inner border or single border whatever. You're doing that length and attach it. But we have that length plus this amount for the width of this border here. So it's going to be the measurement of this, plus the wit the one of these combined border strips. To do that, you want to do measure your quilt topped the main body of your world mind measures 72 a half. Yours will maybe not be exactly that, but it should be near that. So that's 72 a half to cover this amount of it. But then I have to add on for this with here and that with if you cut your borders, the same with as mine is going to be four inches that you want to add on. So in my case, it's 72 and 1/2 inches, and I'm going to add on four inches for this, and that gives me 76 a half inches. So I'm going to cut my two long strips that I pieced two full length strips of the inner border fabric I'm going to cut to that length. In my case, 76.5 years will be whatever the length of your quilt is measured in the center, with four inches added to it. Then, for the width, you're going to do the same thing. You've got the width of your main part of your cool. Chop the main body. She'll be from here to here. You're gonna measure that in the center again, and then you're gonna add four inches for this That's going to be added on. So this would be ordinarily where you would stop majoring that border or for that border. But you're gonna have to add on four inches to account for the border that you've already put on. You don't add on this part no one ad on this border on this side. You're just doing the body of the quilt plus four inches. This isn't your strip isn't going to cover that with it's just gonna be the body of this. Plus this with makes sense. So your first for the length you're going to measure the length of the body of your quilt just the length of these six blocks going down and then you're gonna add on four inches to account for this. For the width, you're going to measure the width of these four blocks. Whatever measurement that is an ad for inches to that. So you'll cut two of this longer length and two of the width link, and then we're going to attach those to the quilt top in just the same way that we did for the blocks here in a minute with that. 11. Sewing the Borders: So I'm going to take one of my long strips that I have cut to 76 a half inches and pretending that this main body of the quilt is one of my blocks, albeit not square. This time I'm going to start up in the upper right hand corner and with right sides together, stitch this however long, maybe halfway down. Remember, we're just doing a partial seem on this 1st 1 So I'm going to do that and then finger press up here to bring that back. And then I'm going to take one of my shorter border strips. That's the width of the body of my quilt plus four inches, and it's going to then, just like we did with the blocks. It's going to go up and go to the end here and then to the end of the body of the quilt so that this is going to mirror what's happening with the blocks there, that it's going to spin like that and then just continue the way around and come back to where you so the strip that you so the partial. C'mon, I'm gonna go ahead and do this on my quilt and come back and just show you how that ends up , which shouldn't be a surprise to you because you saw it on 24 blocks when you are making them, so I'll be back shortly. I'm back around. This is I just finished sewing this last full seem and I've pressed it towards the narrow border. So this is my last corner. That's not so. And it's part of this stretch that I started with. So my partial scene hands right here and I have left plenty of room here. If I have to ease in any fullness anywhere for that plenty of room to do that on intrusively. And then this will meet up at this end and all of my borders will be on and the cook top will be finished. Ready for quoting, I'm going to finish up the same and then show you the top as it's finished 12. Finished!: And here's the quote. Top all finished, ready to head for quilting. Border goes around, Does that little spin thing but the blocks to to mimic that. So my quilt has finished the quilt top ready for quilting. I hope you've been following along and have made at least a block. I would love to see the fabric that you're using and the blocks that you're creating. So be sure to post in the project section of the website of the class page and let everyone see and do in awe over what work you're doing on this whatever quilt. 13. FInal Thoughts: That's it for the whatever quilt. Please remember to post your progress on your quilt in your project section. We'd all love to see your fabric, your blocks in your quilt up. If you have questions, please don't hesitate to ask them in the discussion section. Your fellow quilters and I love to talk about quilting and to share our experiences and thoughts will help in any way we can please leave a review for this class. I'm always interested in improving the classes, so your thoughts on what worked well on what might be improved are always welcome. Also, click on the follow button below. You'll be sure to get notification. Then, when I post a new class or discussion, I have a couple of classes in the works. Have a class to make another quilt, which is called proximity. It is, as you probably guessed, one of my favorites. They all are. I'm noodling around in my head and idea for a syriza about quilting basics, from choosing fabric to tools to cutting, to piecing and whatever I think might be useful as a class but also as a reference tool. So each of those sections in the Siri's would be separate. So if you need to go back and refer to something, then you can just go back to that particular class. I'm also working on a class about designing a bold modern quilt, even if it's your first time designing. If any of those classes sounds especially intriguing to you and you'd like me to tackle it first, let me know in the discussion section. Thanks for joining me. I've had great fun and I hope you have to. I hope to see in other classes bye for now.