Make a Quilt: Roots & Branches | Karen Burns | Skillshare

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Make a Quilt: Roots & Branches

teacher avatar Karen Burns, The Warped Spinster

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

13 Lessons (2h 8m)
    • 1. Welcome!

    • 2. Materials & Tools

    • 3. Cutting: Part 1

    • 4. Cutting Part 2

    • 5. Cutting: 14-1/2" Squares, Left-Handed

    • 6. Cutting Part 3

    • 7. Layout

    • 8. Sewing the Roots & Branches Block

    • 9. Sewing the 4-Patches

    • 10. Cutting Setting Triangles

    • 11. Putting the Quilt Top Together

    • 12. Bordeers

    • 13. Final Thoughts

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About This Class

Learn how to make this modern quilt, from choosing materials, to cutting, to sewing and layout--step-by-step.   The quilt uses 10" precut squares and some accent/background fabric.

If you've been wary of making a quilt with an "on point" (diagonal) set, this is the class for you!

You’ll learn how to cut and sew the blocks, of course, but also how to do an on-point set:

  •  laying out the blocks
  • cutting the setting triangles so the straight of grain is along the sides of the quilt
  • trimming properly before adding the borders.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Karen Burns

The Warped Spinster


Hello, and welcome!  I'm Karen, and I'm glad you're here.

I've been making quilts for nearly 50 years, and have been teaching quilting and designing quilts for several years.    In the past year I embarked on designing fabric--because what quilter doesn't love fabric?

I retired from the library world six years ago, and since then have spent more time teaching and designing, and pursuing other interests:  reading, researching history, spinning (fiber) and weaving (hence the Warped Spinster name), knitting, etc., etc.   Basically, I love fiber.

And chocolate. 

See full profile

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1. Welcome!: everyone carrying here to tell you about the quote behind me. It's called Roots and Branches, and, as usual, it's one of my favorites in this class will learn how to put it together, both the blacks and the general layout of the quilt. This is what's called an on point set, which means that the blocks are arranged in diagonal rose, and that's a little worrisome for some quarters. You haven't done a non point set before, but I'll show you how easy it is to do that. This sample is done in mostly darkish batiks with a black background, but the character that quote changes completely when you change the fabrics. So for this class, for the tenant squares, I'll be using these beautiful batiks from island batiks, those gorgeous blues and greens. And it will have a light background, which is also going to be a batik. It's nice Blue Z Green Z one, and it will look completely different from this quote. I can't wait to see how it turns out, and I'm anxious to see what fabric you choose for your quilt as well. So gather up your fabric and your supplies and let's make a quote 2. Materials & Tools: everyone, welcome back. I'm glad you decided to join me for the class. Let's start out talking about materials. The first thing you will want to do is to download the pdf of the pattern, and you will find that in the projects and resource is tab on the classes Web page, you'll have to use a browser. You won't be able to access it through the mobile app, but you can find it on the browser if you use your browser. So this is called roots and Branches, and I want you to notice that there are three different sizes available here. What I've called lap is 61 by 73 twin 61 by 86 double 73 by 86. Those air just kind of handles for those sizes. You'll want to pay most attention to the actual measurements if you're trying to fit a bad or sofa or something, all right, so in this pattern, then you will notice that there are amounts and measures for all three different sizes. So in terms of requirements and cutting, they'll be in columns in a table, and then later on, I will show you where it is in the actual instructions. But let's start here. So depending on the size that you're going to make, you would need either 26 32 or 40 10 inch squares will get there and again. It's divided by lap, twin and double. As we get down into the cutting, I suggest that once you decide on the size that you want to make that you go ahead and either circle the measurements or the requirements for whatever size you want or use a highlighter to highlight that. In that way you won't get confused. It's not so bad here. So, for example, if I'm doing the lap size that I could just circle it and do the same, then as I move down here just so that it's a little more assurance that my eye isn't going to travel and start cutting from another place the other play. The other thing you might want to do is to go through the pattern and look for places where you see parentheses with three different numbers in it. So here, in this case, we see if I can get the camera down there, little closer in this case, you'll see, it says you will have a total of 2024 or 30 squares, and those three and the parentheses air the numbers that apply to these three different sizes. So it's lap twin double. If I'm making the lap, I would circle the 20 which is the 1st 1 there, or I could use a highlighter. And then there's another one down here where it says 12 15 or 20. And again, I would highlight or circle the 12 if I were doing thedc twin size that I would go toothy second number, the 24. So here we've got lap is first in that size. Twin is the second in that size for parentheses, and double is the third. And that's always going to be true. That's pretty standard Four patterns is that they will put those different measurements in parentheses is kind of a shorthand, so you just need to find your size and then just always duplicate, duplicate. Highlight that or circle if I think that will make things easier for you. All right, so if we go back and look at than the pattern here, it tells us what we need for the various sizes, and I'm doing the lap. So I need 26 10 inch squares a yard and 3/4 of accent fabric yard and 3/8 of border and 58 yard for binding. So let's talk about what each of those fabrics entails. Let me show you on this quilt the first quote made from this pattern what the accent fabric is going to be. In this case, the accent fabric is black. That was the choice that I made to go with ease batiks, the batiks that I'm using for this particular class, I chose a lighter fabric. We're going with the darker one here and the accent pieces made from that. What is called the except fabric in the pattern are these narrow strips that are in the roots and branches blocks, so these are the roots and the branches in the blocks. They are also used in these four patches that alternate with the roots and branches blocks , and they are part of the setting triangles that are on the sides. Because this is an on point pattern, you have to have triangles on the side Now for border. I am using the same fabric that's what the sample quote has, and that's what I like to do is just to extend this except color out into the border and then also the binding. You may choose to do that differently, but I'm going to use this accent violent, lighter batik four have to adjust my lighting here again. Four. Storm would used this lighter accent fabric because it's going to be for my bed, and I wanted to be a little lighter. This is gonna be my summer time quilt for my bed, and I want to make sure that all of the fabrics that I have chosen these 10 inch squares are gonna have a decent contrast with this fabric. So I have, in fact, just pulled out some of the darker fabrics and the ones that I think will match with more contrasts. It will go with this. It will complement them, but it is going to be enough contrast this one, I'm not entirely sure, but I think there's an enough color contrast that will be OK, and in fact, it might be that all of the fabrics in here would be on this I think would not be very good lighting thing here. I'm not sure that would necessarily be enough contrast for what I the way I wanted to be anyway, all right. And I actually have an extra one of these or two in case I and that make wanting to make the quote bigger. So that's the fabric we're looking at. Thank. Now, under the hardware, we need our usual suspects for quilting, starting with a self fueling man. This is an offer, Matt. You'll notice I'm using the unrolled side. There is also a side that has lines on it. I used the unrolled side always with one exception which isn't always okay, Almost always use the unrolled side because I use my rulers to major. The rulers are accurate, The mad is not and they certainly aren't the same measurements. So always try to make her with your ruler when you can. And speaking of rulers, I recommend if nothing else, that you have a six by 24 Ruler. This is from Quilter Select. It has a sort of a griffey surface on the back so that it doesn't move when you put it on the fabric. You will find this useful this length useful was 24 inches. When it comes to cutting your except fabric, and especially when you're doing your borders, if you have an eight or 8.5 by 24 that's fine. But I think you'll probably want to have at least this 24 inch length. You will also see me use my six by 12 ruler, which isn't necessary at all. You could still use your 24 inch ruler. I like this because when I'm cutting the 10 inch squares, there's less ruler to be flinging around and having to deal with. So again, not really required. But if you have one, you might find that useful. You will also want a square up ruler, and this is Quilter Select again. This is a 12.5 inches square, and it is going to be useful, particularly when we are squaring up some half square triangles that we've made and this 45 degree line going diagonally from corner to corner on the square Approval er is going to be very helpful. It's unless you're just just starting with quilting. It's nice to have a square approval ER and I would go with it at least a 12.5 inch because you can square up squares up to that 12.5 inch. I also have a 16.5 inch square approval from Quilters Rule International. You may not have won this large, and that's okay. I will show you how to use it when we are cutting some 14.5 inch squares out of the accent fabric. But I will show you a way you can get around it if you don't have a square of this size. I may not even use this actually, because it doesn't have the grip on the back, and I put grippers on it, but it still slides will see how it goes. So I think that's it for rulers. You will then, of course, want a rotary cutter. I recommend at least a 45 inch 40 45 45 millimeters. Um, once that which is this size, this is a lovely Fisker is that my friend Ruth gave me. Thank you, Ruth. But there are lots of different Rhodri cutters. Before Ruth gave me that I used in ULFA. And this is another 45 millimeter one whatever is comfortable in your hand will be good. The drips makes them. I'm sure there are other manufacturers, so it just needs to be a a rotary cutter functioning rotary cutter. This is the 60 millimeters eyes, and this can be more comfortable. If you have arthritis or problems with your hands, then you might find this more comfortable to use. I probably wouldn't go smaller. There's a smaller, another couple smaller sizes than this. 45 millimeter. I think they're harder on your hands, so I would get at least a 45 millimeter and change the blades. Change the blade, Just change the blade. I'm guilty of not changing it often enough. And then when I change it, I wonder why I didn't do it sooner. So have a fresh blade in there. You will probably also want somethin's. Whatever pins you have will work. Find thes are my favorites. They are clover pins and they're they're super fine pins. If I didn't find something, you can see here and they really are super fine. They've got little glass heads, yellow and blue. They come in a longer size, but I actually like this shorter size. They really go in and out of the fabric. They just glide right in and out. So that's my favorite. But whatever pins you like will work. I also have them on a magnetic pad here because I have a tendency to drop my pins, and this way I could just pick them up. And when I'm sewing as I'm pulling the pins out so I don't so over them, I could just sort of toss them toward it. And it will grab them if I toss it near enough to it, so pins will be good. You will also want something to clip threads. So this is a little pair of clippers. I have sisters nippers. Whatever you have, you will want for trimming threads. Then you'll want an iron for the purposes of demonstration. I will probably just use this small steam fast iron because it's portable. And instead of an ironing board, I'll be using this thick wool Matt, which is actually very nice. I like these will mats. I just don't have it. It's too cumbersome to use an irony bored when I'm filming the classes so you'll see me using this. But of course, your regular iron and ironing board will be just fine. I recommend not using steam because when you have moisture and heat, then you run the risk of shrinking your fabric and or distorting it. So I very seldom use steam. Then there. Oh yes, the soil machine. Of course, you will want a sewing machine in good working order and have some way to do an accurate quarter inch or scant quarter inch seen. So whether that is moving your needle so that it's 1/4 inch between the needle and the edge of the oppressor, foot or oppressor footed that is specifically designed to be 1/4 inch wide from the the center position. Putting a piece of tape down on your throat plates 1/4 inch from the Neil. Whatever you need to do to do an accurate quarter inch, you will want to do that. I don't want to forget to talk about marking utensils that we will need. At one point when we're doing the roots and branches box, you probably have both light and dark fabrics you will want than a couple of different pencils or marking instruments to draw diagonal lines on those blocks on those different fabrics. I prefer to use pencils over the marking pens just because I'm sure these aren't going to cause a problem for the lighter fabrics. I will be using just regular pencils, just graphite pencils, either mechanical pencil or from a regular pencil. And then, for the darker fabrics, I will be using this quite chalk kind of waxy chalk pin. This is from bone. I know funds and quarter have visit. There are all kinds of different brands and types of white and yellow and blue, actually marking pencils that you can get There are also available in just regular pencils as well. Aziz Mechanical pencil types thes air going to be very useful when it comes to doing the marking for the roots and branches blocks. If you prefer to use the air, erase or the water erase pens marking pens. You're certainly welcome to do, though to use those. I would not use the Freaks ian pens. I know some people like to use those, and I have used them abundantly in the past until I found one of them that bleached a beautiful straight white line on a dark red piece of fabric that was to be on the front of a quilt, so I'm just very cautious about those. If you're sure of yours and are OK with using them, go ahead. It's not something I necessarily recommend for my purposes. Just these pencils, regular graphite pencils and this white marker white chalk marker will work fine for me. 3. Cutting: Part 1: Now let's talk about cutting the 10 age squares first cuts to 10 inch squares on your pattern on the first page under the cutting section. The first line under the 10 inch squares is 10 inch hole squares, and that's the number that we want to look at right now. The's air going to be for the roots and branches blocks which have those narrow strips set into them. So I'm gonna look at the 10 inch hole squares, and in my case, when I'm doing a lap, it would be 20. If you're doing a twin, it would be 24. If you're doing a double, that would be 30. So I'm going to be slicing 20 squares so I could just pull out 20 squares. I'm going to use my six by 12 in troller, but you certainly can use your six by 24 or you're hit by 24. Whatever you've got, when we finish with slicing this and then inserting those narrow strips, we're going to cut these into triangles, so we're gonna be cutting it diagonally here and then re sewing it in the process. We're going to lose some from each side here, We'll get taken up in the Seymour in the trimming. So I recommend that as you're doing these random slices, we're going to do three random, randomly spaced slices across here. I recommend that you start them an inch and 1/2 to a couple inches from the edge. Beyond that, we're not gonna worry about measurements. We just want them to be straight vertical slices. So I'm going, Teoh, take my ruler and I'm gonna go at least two inches here. Here's my two inch mark and I'm going to line up a line on the left hand edge. This edges squared up. Either it came that way from the manufacturer or I have squared it up. And it's just any line here. This one happens to be two and 1/4 but it could be two and an eighth could be, too. I'm just using those marks on that line tow line up on the left edge so that this is going to be a straight cut. So I'm going to plant my hand, plant my pinky over here so that this finger can't reach over and get cut when you cut off the tip of your finger. It bleeds a lot. I have control over my ruler on Leah's faras. My hand is if I get up here than it can slip easily. So I'm going to start out and move up when I get to the end of my hand here, I'm going to stop. Walk my hand up, make sure this is out of the way and finish it. Close my blade. And now I've done one slice. I'm gonna move the ruler over a random difference in this case and actually putting it on the five inch line over here again to make sure I've got a straight line. I'm actually gonna move it up so it covers the entire 10 inches and line it up. Plant my hand in my finger. Make that slice close the blade. Now I'm going to move the ruler over for a final slice, and I no longer can line it up on the left hand side because my ruler isn't wide enough for that Yours. Maybe so. Instead, I'm gonna line it up down here at the bottom. If you're standing, you might do it at the top. I'm sitting, which is a little awkward. I don't usually cut while I'm sitting. I really recommend, if you can, that you stand when you cut because it's much easier on your wrist, your carpal tunnel. It's less stress for it. So again, I'm going to plant my hand and my pinky and do the slice. Now I have three slices randomly spaced across there, so I have four pieces of varying wits, so I'm going to just gather these up. These are where the one by 10 inch strips of the accent fabrics are going to go. It will be our next step, but I want to show you the cutting left handed. I have found that my left handed students are much better translating from right to left hand. Then right handers are from right to left. But I'm going to give it a go here because I have lots of left handed quilting friends. Okay, so now we've got another 10 inch square, and this time I'm going to be measuring from the left. Now, if you are right handed and this is going to muddle your brain than just fast forward, So in this case I'm going toe line up one of my lines at least two inches from the edge. But I'm gonna line up one of my lines on the left edge here. Now, I warn you, I can usually cut left handed, but I'm sitting down, so we'll see how this goes. You will do this better than I do. All right, So now I'm going to cut here. I can see already it's slipping and finish it out. So there's my first slice. My next slice is going to be further to the left. So I'm going to line up another line over here. Cross your fingers for me. Oops. I didn't feel that beginning up. I saw it slip a little. I don't know about you. If nothing else, the left handers get a little laugh. All right, so now I have moved over so I don't have a ruler line over here tow line up. So I'm going to use one at the bottom here. And, like, there's a nick in the blade already, Which doesn't seem right. Okay, I have a suspicion that I missed a spot there. A couple of spots, actually. So you left handers will do better than I do on that, but you'll be measuring from me. Let not measuring but slicing from the left, squaring up on the right hand side that the left hand side and moving across. So this is a nice thing slice. That's okay. I think we'll still be OK and pain those together. Continue cutting 10 inch squares until you have sliced the number of squares that is listed for your size of quilt On the pattern. Remember to keep varying the width of those slices. Next up will be talking about cutting your accent, Feber. 4. Cutting Part 2 : Let's talk about cutting the accent fabric now in your pattern under the cutting instructions accent fabric. The first line talks about a one inch by with the fabric strip, and that's the first thing we're going to be cutting. We're going to be using these for those narrow strips that insert in the middle of the roots and branches blocks there, the roots and the branches. So we have to cut one inch by with the fabric, and then we're going to sub cut those into one inch by 10 inch strips, and that's what will insert in my case. Since I'm doing the lap, I'm going to use going to cut 15 strips. The twin would cut 18 and the devil would cut 23. But let me just show you how to cut those one inch by with the fabric strips. Then we'll worry about the rest of the accent cutting later. First thing we need to do is to straighten the edge, that because we're going to be using that to measure from, and we want to make sure that straight and perpendicular to the fold. So this is as the fabric comes off the bolt There's a fold here, and these are the salvages and the with then this is probably 42 inches because it's a batik. Some others, I only count on 40 inches, so we're just gonna call this 40 inches, whatever it might really be. And I want to straighten. This edge actually looks pretty straight at the moment, But I'm gonna take my six by 24 ruler, you'll want your 24 inch rulers so you can cover this whole with of the fabric. And I'm going to line up the full the folders down here, and I'm going to line of the full along one of these horizontal lines on the ruler. In this case, it's the one inch line that I have lined up right on that fold. That's going to ensure that my cut is going to be perpendicular to this fold, and I won't get that funky elbow when I unfolded. So I've got that lined up, and now I'm going to plant in my hand on the ruler with my pinky off to the side. That's to both Help me to anchor that ruler, but also to make sure that I can't stretch this finger over where it's in danger of getting cut because I know from first hand experience that cutting off the tip of your finger it bleeds a lot. Alright, so I've got my pinky there. I'm going to cut up to where my hand ends. That's when I lose control of the rulers. I'm going to stop and walk it up and then finished the cut. And now that straight, you'll notice that I'm right handed and I'll show left handed here in a bit. But I'm right handed. But in order to make this straightened cut, I want to have my ruler entirely on the fabric. So ordinarily I would have the bulk of my fabric off to my right. Now it's off to my left because I need to have the ruler completely on the fabric. If I were trying to straighten it the other direction, if it were on the other side, then I wouldn't have enough space here, um, at the food line to make sure that I'm straight and perpendicular. So for the straightening up, you just need to make sure that you're in a position that the ruler is entirely on the fabric. So That's the one time straightening of that edge. Now I'm going to fold my fabric over and turn my matter room, so now it's going to be ready for a right hand cut. Will you take my ruler line up my one inch line? And because I didn't move the fabric, I moved to the map. It should still be a good straight edge here, so I'm going to line my one inch line up against that edge there, straightened. Take my rotary cutter and cut that one strip finished. I closed blade and set it down. I can lift my ruler and pull it off that strip. Let's do another one here. I can no line the one inch line against the new edge. And as I go, I'm still always going to check. Have the full lying to make sure that the horizontal line looks straight on that fold, especially if you're cutting a lot of the the smaller widths of strips. Eventually cutting errors, all kinds of things, human nature are going to factor into it, and you'll end up getting an edge that isn't really straight. In which case you would just do the street mean edge thing again, so I use that as a double check. Here's my one inch line. I planned my hand and my finger walk my hand up. I'm trying very hard not to get my head in the camera, and there's another one. The other thing that's another thing that you can do is to lined this up and make the cut, but not lift the ruler and pull the fabric out. I'm going to lift up the ruler but not pull the fabric out, and now I'm just gonna put the two inch line up against that edge. I've already cut it at one inch. Now I'm going to cut it. To which so one engine, one inches, two inches, of course, simple math and then cut my next trip. I can lift it up again and move it to the three inch line and make the cut than the four inch line, five inch line in the six inch line, so you can either lift up the ruler and take out the strip, or just keep moving the ruler over an inch. If you just keep moving the ruler, it means that you're straight edges the same straight edge and you're always measuring from a straight edge. If you lift your ruler, take out the strip, then if you've made any errors however small, in that first cut, then the edge has that little air in it. And you're just gonna compound the air as you go. So just double check to make sure that you're doing it straight all the time. All right. Now for the left handers and you all are much better translating right handed to left handed that I am together way around. But I will do my best for you. All right, So you ordinarily have the fabric off to the left when you're cutting. But for doing this, straightening the edge, you're going to have the fabric to your right, and I'm going t this. It's all in camera. So I'm going to take my ruler, and again I'm straightening the edge. So I want my ruler entirely on the fabric. So I want to make sure I have looks like I need to straighten this up just a little bit, actually. So now I've got a horizontal line across here that I am lining up on my fold and I'm going to plant my hand and my finger down here and I'm going to try to do this left hand that Semicon. Sometimes I could do it, but on camera, who knows? Part of it is just the pressure. I don't get that pressure right for some reason. All right, part in my head in the camera occasionally, Yes, this is the problem that I have when I do left handed sometimes is a don't have proper pressure all the way. All right, So forgive me, my bad left handedness. And then I'm going to turn the mat around so my fabric is to my left. And now I can line up just kind of a scruffy edge because of how I did the cutting. And now I can cut my one in strips, going that direction and again I can cut the one inch lift my ruler go and cut the two inch etcetera. So those are the one inch strips and will come back to them again in a minute. But now I'm going to straighten out This edge didn't straighten very well with the left hand courage. So we have that edge. Straighten back to right handed. Now we need to cut next on our list. We're going to be cutting that strips for the setting triangles and for my lap, it says. I need to strips 14.5 inches by with the fabric. W Life is with the fabric, and then I'll cut 14.5 inch squares from there. But I'm going to cut two strips for twin. You've got three, and for double you would also cut three. All right, 14.5 inches. My ruler is only six inches wide. Even if I have an 8.5 inch wide ruler, that's still not gonna be wide enough to do 14.5 inches. One thing you could do, which is my least favorite idea. But you could use your math. This is the one time when you might want to use a matter if it's a pretty large measurement and you haven't got rulers that will work, show you how to Kabul a couple together. Then you could use this. Make sure you line the straight edge up against the zero line and then cut at the 14.5 inch line up here. Now, as I said at the outset when we were talking about materials. Your mat is not as accurate. It is reasonably acceptable here to use the man because these squares are oversized, We're going to cut them into squares, and we're gonna cut them into triangles. So we'll cut diagonally corner to corner and those will be oversized, so we'll be able to trim it down. If you aren't perfectly accurate because you're using your map for measurements, it will be okay, but let me show you another way to do it well to it. So we have turn this against you can see it. So we have this edge straightened. At least it was straightened before I started room in the ground and I could use that 16.5 inch ruler. Find my friend the folders up here so I could line up my 14.5 inch line on my ruler, which is right here and line up the top. The fooled with the top edge of the ruler. And then I could make my cuts here and here. Remember, you're never cutting toward yourself. You're always cutting away from yourself. I can do that. I probably won't my poor ruler. You can't see it, but I can feel that it's bowed a little bit. It's worked a little bit, so it's going to be harder for me to control it when I cut because it's gonna want to rock a little bit. And that's a pretty long cut to be making with your rulers rocking. So I am going to put together two rulers to do it. We need a 14.5 inch square, and I've got a good 12.5 inch square, a ruler which still isn't big enough for my 14.5 inch. But I also have another ruler here handily enough, and I can take I could borrow two inches from this ruler and on the 12.5 inches from this, and I'll have 14.5. So I'm going to line up my two inch mark on the left hand edge here and I'm doing this is a right hander. I'll show you left hander in a minute, and then I'm going to line my her butt up my 12.5 inch ruler up against that edge, making sure that this edge stays at two inches, so I've got two inches from my 24 in troller and 12.5 inches from my square ruler. So I make sure that set, and then I'm going to plant my hand on this ruler. I don't have an edge close enough to hang by Pinky over, but I'm going to still hanging over there so that I'm not moving my index finger into danger. So this quote of select ruler is pretty good about not shifting, but I'm still wanting to be careful about walking my hand up. Now, I've had to stop here. I haven't finished my cut all the way up because I ran out of ruler. So I'm going to hold my hand down on this with it lined up with the two inches here and put my ruler toe of 1/2 inch ruler, but it up against it. I'm gonna hold that down and finish my cut part in my head, and I'll finish that cut going up, all right? And while we're here and you've still got this in your head, I am going to then do the 14.5 inch square which is the second line on your pattern. It's the the sub cut here. So I'm looking at setting triangles. I've cut my 14.5 by with the fabric strip and now I'm going to cut that. I'm going to sub cut that into 14.5 inch squares so two strips will give me four squares. I have one strip here, so I should be able to get two squares out of this. First thing I'm going to do again is to have the bulk of my fabric on my left and have my ruler completely on the fabric line up a horizontal line with one of these straight edges that cut. Both of them actually should line up both top and bottom. And I want to cut off the salvages. I'm not only straighten the edge, I'm cutting off the salvages on this batik. You condone really not tell very easily that there are salvages here, but on non batik fabrics, you are typically gonna have sometimes a pretty wide salvage there and it will be a different color. It might have writing on it or color samples and you want to be sure to cut that off both for the look, but also because the salvages more tightly woven and it will act differently than the rest of the fabric. It will shrink differently. And it it will just cause you problems. So we're gonna go ahead and cut that off, and then so is not to disturb the fabric. And that edge we just straightened all turned the match around. And now we're going to do the same thing to do. 14.5 inch measurement, the direction. So this is 14.5 to make a square. We've gotta go 14.5 there. So again, I'm going to borrow two inches from my six by 24 rules. Take my 12.5 inch ruler, but it up still not gonna have enough to finish up there. But that's OK, and and I'm gonna hold down this ruler so it stays at the two inches and moves my 12.5 inch up and finish that cut. And there are to 14.5 inch squares, and we'll be working with those later on when we get to putting the whole thing together. Now the pattern said that from these setting triangles, I'm going to get 14.5 inch squares. And then I also need to nine inch squares, these air going to be cut into each of them into two triangles, which will be the corner pieces. So no matter what size you're doing, you're also going to need to nine inch squares to cut into four corner pieces so we can cut that from what's left of the 14.5 inch strip we just made ordinarily of ahead of my iron handy. I would press this, but just to show you this point and where every 10 that's pressed, it will still be OK. This is also an oversized square, so we want nine inch squares out of this. I can get that out of my 12.5 inch ruler. So here is my nine inch line. Over here, it looks confusing. It looks like that's half an inch, but this ruler, remember, has 1/2 inch starts with 1/2 inch rather than a full inch. So this is the nine inch line here, and here is the nine inch line at the bottom. So I've got this. So what is under the ruler here in this corner is a nine inch square, so I plant my hand in my pinky up to the corner. Turn still, make sure that my fingers are out of danger and make that second cut, and this can be added to your stash for another quote with the backing of this one, and now I have a nine inch square, so for my lap, I would cut another 14.5 inch by with the fabric strip two more 14.5 inch squares and another nine inch square for the twin. You're going to cut three strips, which would ordered, which will yield you 14.5. You can get 14.5 out of that, but you're only going to need five of those 14.5 inch squares, and then for the double you're going to again. Cut three strips, but you will need all six those 14.5 inch squares and again for each of them. You'll need just to nine inch squares 5. Cutting: 14-1/2" Squares, Left-Handed: So now for the left handers, ordinarily you would have the bulk of your fabric on the left, but you're gonna have it on the right to do the straightening. And I'm going to grab my eyes six by 24 Ruler, my fold again is up here. So I'm going to place one of the horizontal lines. I typically used the the one inch horizontal line on the fold. And then I'm going to take my cutter, hope that I can cut this decently. I'm really bad at Cuddy, left handed. If I'm sitting down thing, I'm standing up in my head of that. Got in the way, All right, so now that is cut that straightened out. So I'm going to make sure that my fabrics on the map turn it around, so I'm ready to do the rest of my cuts. And again we're going to borrow two inches from the six by 24 ruler, and that's going to the two inch line is going to line up along that edge, and then I'm going to take the 12.5 inch ruler. But that up against that ruler, making sure that's still two inch line along here. It shifted a little bit. So I'm gonna move that back and everything lines here. We've got this piece here that I ordinarily would be straightening up because it's affected . This is here. All right, so now I am again going to take this. All right, So now I've got it turned ongoing. Teoh again borrow two inches from this ruler. My six by 24 line up the two inch mark along that edge. Then I'll take my 12.5 inch square, but it up against that edge image of the ruler. And then I will take my rotary cutter and cut when I finished. When I get to the edge of the ruler, line this up, make sure it's still it two inches and cut there. And then I would use this same configuration to cut the strip so I would have to straighten up Theo Edge again with the bulk of that strip on the left, straighten the edge, turn it around and cut the 14.5 inches again, using the two inches from the six by 24 and then the 12.5 in truer. So those are the 14.5 inch squares. We have one more set of cuts to make 6. Cutting Part 3: So now the final one is for four patches, and these air the blocks that alternate with the roots and branches. And for those, we're going to cut strips that are five inches by the with the fabric for the lap. I need three strips. If you're doing a twin, you need floor. If you're doing a double, you need five. And then again, we're gonna have some subject. Sub cuts from those five inch strips were going to cut five inch squares, so we'll start with the five inch strips. These will be easier than the 14.5 because you can use our six by 24 rules for that. Hopefully this edges still straight. So let me check that before revealing further. You have to straighten it up again like I must have Teoh shifted a bit. No, it looks pretty good. So I had lined it up along here. That's my five inch mark on my ruler. My five inch line and then my fold is down here, and I'm checking that. I've got That's straight a line across that fold. So all across here have got that line lined up. It's lined up here so I know I've got a good five inch wide strip straight and true. Plant my hand and my finger walk up until I get that cut. And now I'm going to do I will continue cutting those five inch strips as long as I've got that fabric out. But I won't cut all of them in front of you. You don't need to watch me do all of those. And now I'm looking for my six by 12. Up there is. But also you could also course use your six by 24 ruler. And again we're going to want to straighten up this edge. So I'm cutting it right handed at the moment. I want us both Straighten the edge and cut off that salvage. And now I can turn the mat back around or walk around the table. If I've got that set up, I do down in my studio. And now I'm gonna line my five inch line on my ruler against that edge, check to make sure that it's square by having a horizontal, um, lines matchup with the top in the bottom and cut five inch squares and I will just cut as many as I can out of this strip. These are not oversized. You really want to use to be five inches squares. Take your time, Do them right, So those are the five inch squares, and I will set those aside for later step. If I'm doing it left handed, it's you are first going to start with straightening on these fabric spoke of the fabric on your right. You will straighten the edge on this side so you'll make that cut. Thank you shifted naturally so I would line up on full down here. Straighten that edge for in the Surrounds. Both of the fact is going to be on the left. Now I line up my five inch line, straightened edge and cut that strip and then step. Cut that into five inch squares. That's all that. We're all the cutting that we're going to do with the accent fabric. For the moment, you still have to cut for the borders in the binding, but we'll do that after we get because the rest of the top pieced, which will be a little while yet you have to go to the sewing machine. One other thing we want to cover is cutting the strips. So we're gonna take these one inch by with fabric strips that we cut from the accent fabrics, and I want to start out by straightening this edge and cut off the salvage. This is thief old, and I don't want to cut it from the fold, and I'm going to trim off the salvage and straighten that edge around. And now my pattern tells me it needs to be 10 inches by one inch. So the one inches already cut going toe line at my 10 inch line on that left hand edge and top and bottom should line up on lines that are one inch a cart on the ruler, so trim that that's too. It says We've got a double over and then find the 10 inch line and cut, and you just cut as many one by 10 strips as your pattern directs. Now we want to cut the 10 inch squares that we had reserved from earlier. So when we cut the whole squares, you remember we sliced Um made three slices to make four pieces for each of, in my case, 2010 inch squares. Twins would be 24 double would be 30. Now we have a second thing here, which is cut into 45 inch squares. So it's a 10 inch square. We cut it into quarters, they're gonna be five inch squares. So let me grab a 10 inch square here, and I've already determined that minor square. If your squares are not 10 inches and square, then you want to square those up here is well, so all I need to do is make a cut halfway here and halfway there. I'm going to take my five inch line on my ruler and line it up with the left edge of my square, which in my case, is at the bottom of the valleys. Plant my hand and my finger. Make that cut. Then I'm going to with the fired in Schlein on what is now the left edge was the bottom edge and make that cut does the blade. Now I have four five inch squares for that. You remember that we cut some five inch squares just a couple minutes ago, and so these air going to form the four patches, this would be out of a different fabric than this one But just so you can see how those we're going to go together, All right, so that's it for the cutting that we're going to do at this point. 7. Layout: the layout is up next, and this is the part that worries some quilters who haven't done an on point quote before. So I'll show you in detail how that how you could do that, I'm going to be using a paper mock up just so that it's easy for me to rearrange things. You can see things, and I don't have to be crawling on the floor moving blocks around. So this is what we're aiming for. This is the lap size. You will have a diagram in your pattern for the different sizes. But I did this one which more closely matches the sample quote that I'm making, and it's a little brighter. I think you can see it better on camera. So this is what we're aiming for. I want you to note that if you either turn your head or turn the paper or quote 45 degrees than all you have are horizontal straight rose. So that's essentially what we're doing when I'm laying it out. I have some individual paper markups here when you're laying it out. Honestly, I find it easiest just to start out with the roots and branches blocks, which are going to be all along the outside edge of the quote, and you have two choices with roots and branches. You can either lay them out. So the V is going upward, as if their branches reaching up into the sky or have the downward where it's the roots reaching down into the earth. You can do it either way. You can actually mix them if you want in a quilt, but the pattern calls for it being one direction. And then, of course, here we've got it in the roots configuration. If you just turn the quilt, it's going to be in the theme branches configuration. But choose just one of them for laying it out. You want to be consistent, all right, so I'm going to take roots and branches blocks that I'm doing The lack world, which has four across and five down. I just take one of my blocks and arrange it so that thesis EEM line down. The middle of it is running up and down. It's a vertical line, and then I'm going to take another one put up next to it, and I'm always making sure that the branches or the roots, whichever you've chosen that the blocks are going in the same direction. You, of course, are going to have blocks that are not all the same color and design on them. All right, so I got those four laid out. Those blocks always alternate with either side triangles or with a four patch, so you'll have a row of four to begin with. Or however many across you have. Your first role will be roots and branches blocks. Then you're going to take four patches. I like to arrange them so that these two lighter squares or the background squares yours. Maybe darker, but the two background or accent squares on the four patch are going to be to the right and the left. You could also do it top to bottom. Just be consistent. This is just the way I've always done it. The other thing that I do when I'm laying out, I don't stress much about which fabrics go where in this particular thing, because it's such a scrappy look. But I do generally try to avoid having two fabrics right next to each other, just to spread them out a little bit. All right, so we've got four roots and branches blocks, and now we have three of the four patches. Now I'm going to take four more roots and branches blocks, pulls them out of my stack here and again, checking to make sure that they're going in the same direction. I'm going to alternate those with oops with E four patches. So I've got four roots and branches 34 patches for roots and branches. And as you might guess, I'm then going to have, um, three, four patches, upsets, not for patch. Find another four patch, OK? And you don't. If you're laying this out, you don't have to be particularly need about it. Just so you know, generally where each block is. So I've got 4343 Now I go back to four and I just keep laying them out like this until I have used all the blocks and blocks is blocks and followed the pattern diagram and one more road to go here again. You may have more than this if you're making a larger quilt, but your diagram will show you how many across and how many down. Now I need three more four patches and again I'm checking to make sure that I'm being consistent and how I lay those out is now. Here's my final roots and branches lot row. All right, come to the end of that. But now I've got all of these funky triangles off to the side, and that's where the setting triangles are going to go on the sides and the top. In other words, not the corners. You are going to use the triangles that you cut from the 14.5 inch squares, and we cut those diagonally twice. So the biases on the longer side here and that is the side that's going to go to the outer edge of the quilt. So that controls the bias. You. So the bias into the center, which controls it. So now I'm just going to fill in these sides and tops with setting triangles. When you're doing this, you're setting Triangles will be larger than your blocks are going to be a little oversized because we're going to train them then, when we're finished putting the whole quotes out together. So I'm just going to fill in these spaces with those 14.5 inch square triangles. No that sounds. Is that an oxymoron? Exactly. But doesn't sound right when you talk about square to rankles. But triangles cut from those 14.5 inch squares. All right. And now I've got the 4/4 and those are the triangles that you cut from the nine inch squares, and those are just going to go in the corner. I always do those last both what I'm laying out and when I'm sewing. But that's up to you. Equals a little crooked, their on screen. All right, so that's how we lay it out. Now. How are we going to put it together? That for that, we're going to take it row by row? So this is going to be one row, and you can see that's all just straight. Seems that's I'm not putting that one on you. So that's just so in these two together at these two triangles to that square. Then this is the next row. So these three together and then the site triangles remember that you're always sewing a routine branches blocked to either a setting triangle or a four pat. You were never sewing the roots and branches block to another roots and branches block or four patch to a four patch it always alternate. So if it's not, if you find yourself sewing two of the same kind of block together than you know, you need to go back and reassess the situation. All right, so we're just going to do it row by row, and in this case, we're just going to with this right sides together, match up this corner down here and I'll show you the head on a actual block in just a few minutes. But we're gonna line up this corner down here. We're not gonna worry about what's off the top here you're gonna had. You're used to doing dog years if you've done triangles, but these are gonna be a little larger than usual because they're a bit oversized. So don't worry about that. Just match up this corner and then on the other side, you're going to do the same thing. Flip to the right side, match up this corner over here, and then when you press, typically I would press the seems toward the side triangles or the setting triangles. You can certainly do that, but then you're going to have to futz around little with the next row. So you might want to press all of the scenes in this row one direction, and then when you do the next row, press them in the opposite direction. So when those meat, though, seems air gonna nest together, that's up to you. I think it's the easiest way to describe oppressing scheme, so we're just going to be sewing this row by row. Then you will end up with something that looks like this where you've got your rose together. And here I've got the corners added on, and then the corners added on here, you could in fact not have done though. Ship. That's okay, So you're always going to you're going to start out with one roots and branches block here one block, then three blocks than five blocks than seven blocks and in the lap size than the next row . You're going toe also have seven blocks, so this is the same block. The same row is this one, but it's flipped, and then it shifted down because remember, you're always doing a roots and branches to a four patch. So you're doing that shift and then you go back down to five in a row and then three in a row and then one in a row. So you've got these rows all you have to do to put them together. It's just the same as sewing together rose in a horizontal set where I'm gonna take this room, flip it right sides together, match up those seams, and again I'm going to have a roots and branches block that's going to be sewn to a four patch. And then these 24 patches will Are these air actually, on this one? They're setting triangles. But when I do this one, then it's always going to be alternating blocks so that all you're doing is flip it over matching up. Those seems doing your scant quartering seam allowance and you're gonna have some extra stuff, extra triangle stuff hanging off the side, and that's okay. That's the way it's supposed to be. So let's take a look at how that this thing first, where I was going to go together, how we match up those corners there and then I'll show you with with real blocks how we're going to put those two together, and then I will show you about about trimming up the sides when you get all of the rows put together. So I'll meet you back here with some actual real life blocks. I've moved the camera up, so we have a wider field of view here. When we get to the actual box, we're going to talk about how we're going to. So this first row together, remember, it's going to look like this. I've taken off the corner triangle there, so I have picked up a roots and branches block. Let's take a look at this here. I'll leave this here. So we want to orient it like that if I could do that. Okay, so we've got that block here. Let me turn it this way. How we're used to seeing it in the block. So we've got this vertical line with scenes there that way. And now I need to cite triangle blocks setting triangles and those air going to go like this and you can see these air oversized. There's a lot of dog here hanging out there when we want that. We're going to trim it later. So I checked to make sure that this looks exactly like my diagram does. So I've got a straight line here and diagonal lines there. Now, if I were to put the corner on here, then I would take one of these squares cut from a nine inch block. So it also is oversized. Not as it's as oversized is this, but it's just smaller because of where it iss remember, because we this is the square. Here, we cut it diagonally. So now the bias edges are here, which is the way we wanted the bias edges on. These are here because we cut that those squares diagonally twice. All right, so we're just going to leave that one off for the moment. We could do that at the very end, and then I'm just going to match up thes two corners down here. So I'm going to flip this right sides together, match up that corner and the sides. I'm not gonna worry about what's up there. I just want this to match down here. Then I would suggest that you take a least one pin and pin those two layers together because if you're anything like me and you're probably all handier than I am, but if you're like me. By the time you get to the sewing machine, you take it off the floor, that design while whatever and you get to the sewing machine. And you think that was it this side, or was it this side I needed to So So I just put pins in there not because I necessarily needed to hold him in place, but just to remind me which side I'm sewing on. So then I will. So that and I'm going to press all these this direction. So then I'm going to come back and line this up. It's going to be pretty obvious to me at this point which side I'm going to. So but I'm probably going Teoh, I'll just put a couple of pins in here to simulate the seem for the moment. Do not put your pins in this way when you're going to, so always want to put them this way. So if you happen to run over a pin you want running into the whole shaft of the thing, it's just beside. But this is going to simulate the seem, and then I'm going to press that one. Also that direction. It's kind of awkward when it's only pinned. Okay, so my seems gonna be pressed that direction. Then when I do the next row, have enough blocks here. I know that I need to alternate. Let me grab my next row here, and I know that I'm going to need to do a four patch next to this because I always alternate the types of blocks and that I want could see here that I want the background down here. And then I need two more of the roots and branches blocks and those are the same fabric or close enough to the same fabric that I don't want to do that. So I will move this one down here, making sure that my roots or branches air going in the same direction. So I'm doing roots at the moment, apparently, and then I need another one up here and I need my roots direction. There's my next row, and this is going to go off the corner of the camera. But then again, I'm going to be putting on the site triangles setting triangles down here. So again, when I do that, I'll be matching up this corner so all I'm doing is sewing these rows together, just as if they were horizontal rows. All right, I'm going to sew these together. And when we come back, I'll show you about in real life about put in those rows together so way. 8. Sewing the Roots & Branches Block: we're ready to start sewing and to start, we're going to do the first step on the roots and branches block. So I've taken one of the 10 inch squares that I sliced into four different slices. And then I have three of the one by 10 inch strips from the background of the X in fabric. We are going to just put these back out again. The order doesn't really matter. You could switch them around if you want this narrower one to come in between, you could move that over and it would be fine. It just means that sure painted, just going to be in a different place. But that doesn't really matter if you do it in the original order than you don't have to line things up on that pink touch. So if that's an issue for you, you might want to just leave it in the usual order. And all we're going to do is insert one of these one by 10 strips where we sliced this block and then I'm going to press toward the the narrow strip and you'll see how this works in a minute here. But that puts the bulk of the seam underneath this narrow strip, which lifts that up off the surface of the quilt a little bit, which I like. It's just that much more dimension to make this look like the roots and branches that air sort of coming out of the earth or against the sky. So I am going to put this right sides together, these air batik so it doesn't really matter for mine, but you don't have batiks, then make sure it's right. Sides together. Line up that edge to use a pin or two, if you wish, and then just do a scant quarter inch, which is a thread or too shy of 1/4 inch, which makes allowance for the fold back and the thickness of the thread. And then when we come back, I will show you how I've pressed it in the effect that creates. As long as I have my portable iron and, well, Matt here, I guess I could just demonstrate depressing. So the first thing that I'm going to do is set the scene that embeds the threads into the fabric a little more, and then I'm going to full this over so that the seam allowance gets pressed under this narrow strip. Now, I'm not gonna take my iron and lean on it and do this. I'm going to often I will just sort of fold it back gently with my hands, then take the iron and just using the weight of the iron move that fold over and then press it. I'm not pushing against it or iron, which is more likely to distort it. And then I can just press. So this really is pressing? No, I All right, so that is the first seem maybe these I pull up with the war map here. Here we go, that the way. And now you have choices for how you're going to do. There's depending on how much you like to do chain piecing. So I can now take this piece, put it right sides together on the strip that I just sowed on the other length of it. And do 1/4 inch seem Come back, press it, pick up this strip right sides together, etcetera all the way across that I'm pulling the piece out of the machine every time that I do it. If you like to do chain piecing though. And that's how you organize things. Then you could run this through the machine. Don't break the thread. Pick up the next pair. I ran it through the machine. Don't break the thread. Pick up this pair, run it through the machine and don't break the thread. Then you can clip thes two off of Break the threads on these two. Come back. Put those two together and then continue chain piecing, putting knows together. And then you will have to break the thread to put these quarter pieces together unless you organized in such a way with chain PC, and that you can just start on the next block and without breaking new threads. So if you like to change piece, it's certainly possible here if that confuses you. And that's not the way your brain organizes that. It's perfectly fine just to pick up each piece and so it on. So I'm going Teoh so on this piece, and I think I'll do the rest of them. And then when I come back, I'll show you what that pressing does for the roots in the branches. Now, this portion of the piecing of a root and branch block is finished. If we flip it over, you can see that I have pressed the seams toward the narrow strip. And because of the size of the strip that I chose to insert and the seam allowances, those seam allowances meet in the center. So if you didn't see that those seems there, you might think that this block, this tenant square, was still complete. But on the other side, then you can see that the strips have been inserted, so these strips have just displaced. I guess you could say the slices that we've made in this block so that it still is, I hope 10 inches by 10 inches. So we still have the Ted inch square and the I don't know if you can see it very well on camera, but because those seems have impressed, then these strips air lifted up a little bit to give it a little more dimension. So you want to finish doing that with however many 10 inch squares your pattern says to do , which is the number hopefully that you have sliced when we were doing the cutting. When you're finished with that, sewing them together, pressing toward the strips. Then we're gonna work on the next trip. And this is where we really form the roots and branches block. I did a couple other blocks here, so you bring one that's the same print in a different color way, and you'll notice that these because I did random slices thes air, not in the same place. So I'm not going to have to match these strips up. But just a za preview. We're going to lay that on top and so diagonally so that when we fold this back to make make a square, you're going to get that roots in branches block. So that's next up. Meet me back here when you have finished doing. I've done a few already. What you have finished doing your sets of tenants squares and will work on the next and really final step for doing the roots and branches box for the next step in the roots and branches blocks. I'm going to choose two different fabrics of blocks, and they can either be low contrast such as these, so that if I full this back, there's some contrast there. But not a lot. Not as much as if I had say this one and the lighter one. You can try to have high contrast or low contrast or not, worry much about it and just have a mix. There probably isn't an even divide between lights and darks in your 10 inch square pack anyway. So unless you're cutting your own and want to divide it that way, then I would just unplanned in to go with whatever happens, just so I don't have the same fabric matched up with the It's twin from the pack, all right, The first thing I'm going to do is take my six by 24 inch ruler. It needs to be something that's long enough to go diagonally corner to corner. My six by 12 isn't long enough, so I got my six by 24 and I'm going to draw a line from corner to corner opposite corners. So I've got a diagonal line, and because this is a pretty dark fabric, I'm going to use my white pencil, my white marking pencil, one of the corners, always a treat when you have pink Tages and I'm going to make a line that I can see when I'm sewing, so it depends on how your eyesight, your light and your glasses air working for you today. Going to try to make mine solid enough that you can see it here on camera. All right, so now I've got my line running diagonally, corner to corner. Now I'm going to take the other block and with right sides together and not not worried who these air Pretty close. Actually, that's interesting. And not worrying about lining up those strips because we didn't cut them tow line up. We don't really want them to line up, to be honest with you. And then I'm going to match up thes to as best I can and then put a pin in it. Hold it in place, and you probably won't get it Tow line up perfectly. Just lying flat because you've got the bulk of these on top of each other. That's going to kind of distort the top one a little bit. I'm just going to easy and and you will have had a little bit of difference in how you sewed it, etcetera, etcetera. So just match it up as closely as you can. This is going to be a little bit oversized. We're going to trim it down a bit, but not a lot. So don't go crazy. And now I'm going to stitch a scant quarter inch, and I really would do a scant here or on the side of a little narrower scene and wider so that you have enough to trim and get it up nice and square when we get to that point. So now I went to so a scant quarter inch on both sides of that line, and when we come back, I will show you what that will do for us. Now, as you might suspect, we're going to cut on the line that we drew. You can do this either with a ruler and rotary cutter or with a good Paris years that will cut through those layers easily. My cutting table is away from my sewing and pressing tables, so if I'm feeling lazy, I'll it often just pick up a pair of shears and cut it. It doesn't have to be a really accurate cut because we've already sown accurately on both sides of that line. So this is just to separate those haves. Don't go too crazy with it, but don't stress too much about it. I'm going to slice that and we started out with two squares and we're going to end up with two squares. But they have borrowed half from each other so that when we fold this back, we now have of the shape with those strips going into a V shape. So these air pretty close might look like a near myths or in your hit. But when it's put with the other blocks that are clearly completely separate or different from each other than that's gonna be fine, you won't notice that. And then the other one is sort of kind of a mirror image of that. Except that while obviously these are on different sides now it's this piece. It's a shorter piece down here that almost meets in the middle and this longer piece up here, his further apart, just the way that works out. So now you're going to square these up to 9.5 inches. These are going to finish at nine inches to begin with. We've got a little bit of extra that we can trim off, and I will show you how to trim those up here when I come back, The first thing I want to do is to press this and again. It's even more important now that you press rather than iron, because this is the bias you got straight in cross green, parallel to the sides of the original square. But this is on a diagonal, which means it's bias and it will stretch more easily. You've got it stitched What helps to stay at somewhat, But it's very easy when you're a pressing, um to want to iron it instead, which is going to pull that apart and distorted. It's easier to do that on the bias, so I'm going to be careful as I press this also pressed the other one and then we'll come back and square up. All right, this is pressed. I have pressed it toe one side. It doesn't matter which side you press it, too, if you like to press to the side. If you like to Pressure seems open. You certainly can do that, but you do want to press them before you start to square it up. Now I'm going to take my square approval er, and this is where it's really handy to have a square of ruler. That's at least the 9.5 inches that we need and were particularly going to be using this diagonal line that runs. You could see it better on the mat that runs from corner to corner, because we have a scene that's running from corner to corner here. We're going to use that to square it up. The first thing that I'm going to do is move the ruler sort of up to this corner up here and then I'm going toe lineup that diagonal line on the diagonal seem line on my block. I want to trim this to 9.5 inches, which means I want to be sure that I got at least the block going to the edge here on the top and also on this side. Now this is me cutting right handed. I'll do. I'll show you how to do it. Left handed in a minute. I'm not sure I can actually cut it left handed, but I have to make sure that I got a little bit of margin all around here so that I get a true 9.5 inches and I'm going to be able to do it. Here's my 9.5 inch line right here and then my 9.5 inch line down here so I will be cutting on these two sides to my right into the top, and this is a non slip ruler. But I've got the bulk of seems under here, so things may rock a little bit. You just have to be careful. Make sure your fingers out of the way and then any excess I could pull off. Now I can take my blocks or I could turn my man, actually, but it's a little too much activity for the camera. So now I'm going to turn it thes air. The two sides that I had just cut. Now I'm going to lay my ruler down again on that diagonal line, and I'm going to match up this time my 9.5 inch line on the edge gonna line those up with the edges of the two edges that I just cut and then make sure that my diagonal line is still lined up there. Make sure my fingers air out of the way and trim that Oops. This is what happens when I cut sitting down and fully excess off. And now we have, and 9.5 inch square, which, after we put it into the quote, is going to be nine inches square. Trim, unease, roots and branches blocks with the square up ruler. If you are left handed, you are going to again lineup the diagonal line. But in your case, it's going to be highest point at the upper left, and then you're lowers point at the lower right, so it's going to slant toward your right. You're going toe line that up on the seem line, the diagonal seem line and then you're going to find your 9.5 inch points here and those lines air here and here. So I've got plenty of extra here. Then I will. You will. I would probably make a hash of it. You will cut this side and then the top, and then you will turn it around so that those two pieces that we just trimmed are off to the right, will line up the 9.5 inch lines along the edges that we just trimmed. Make sure that that diagonal line goes through the center, which it would if I had actually trend up those edges. And then you're going to cut the left hand side and the top again. Now we have a roots and branches a or a roots or branches block. The quilt is set on point, which means you're diagonal is going to be running vertically up and down. So it's going to be like this when it's like this. Then this represents the branches going up toward the sky. If you turn it 180 degrees thin, this represents the roots going down into the earth. So that's your roots and branches. Spot block. Go ahead and pair up the other squares that you have your other sliced pieces and do the same thing until you have the required number of roots and branches block for the size that you're making. Next up, we're going to be doing the alternating blocks, which are the four patches 9. Sewing the 4-Patches: four patches. These are basically one step. We don't have to do two steps, as we did before, and I pulled some of the five inch squares that we cut from the 10 inch squares when we were cutting and also some five inch square accent pieces. So I want to choose only two of the accent pieces for each block, and then we're going to need to of these focus fabric, I guess If you want to call it now, you can use the same fabric in the same block. So this is a four patch. It's a two by two squares, so you could do that. That's an option in my quilts. I mix it up. Since it's kind of a scrappy quilt, it's a plan scrap equal. I will mix it up and choose two different focus fabrics just to make it a little scrappy er and a little more interesting. But if you want to do these the same fabric, you certainly can do that. This is going to be pretty easy. We're just going to take this 1st 1 and put it right sides together and stitch that match it up here, run that through the machines were going to stitch that with a scant quarter inch. We're not going to clip. The threads were just going to leave it attached to the machine. And we're going to do this right sides together, flip it over and run that through the machine, and then we'll clip threads and I'll show you what we do Then, once we have those two sewn together and my, they're still attached, I haven't clipped the threads yet. Now I need to do the pressing before I go back and do this last seen in the center. So I'm going to press them toward the accent fabric, not the accent fabric. Sorry, the focal fabric. It doesn't actually matter which direction you do. What? I'm doing it toward the focal fabric because I have a lighter fabric for my accent fabric. On the sample quote that I showed you that has the black accent fabric. I actually pressed toward that accent fabric because it was darker. So in this case, I'm going to press this toward the focal fabric way from the accent fabric, so that one's going to be pressed that direction, and this one is going to be pressed the opposite direction. So I'm gonna fold those back my iron cord far enough. And then I'm going to press that just scheming my iron over the top. I'm not leaning on it and pushing against that scene. I'm just pressing it now, these air still attached. So I'm not gonna lose track of which is which. What goes with what if I'm chained piecing So now when I flipped thes rose right sides together than these two seems are going to nest against each other but up against each other or nest because you've got the bulk of one seem going this way, the other one going this way. Then you can push those together and you can feel I wish we had feel video here so you could feel this. And then I'm going to put a pin there just to make sure that that intersection is going to stay put while I go to the machine and so was can't quarter inch scene. And now that those two are stitched together, I am going to press it to one side again. You could press it open if you wanted to, but I'm gonna press it to one side and it's going to frost be pressed toward the dark on half of it and light on the other half. So don't worry too much about it. And we are having to match these up to a specific seem on the next box that when we lay this out in the quilt, I don't have to try to match these Seems so it doesn't matter which way you press it. So when we let me move this hired out of the way when we're laying out the blocks, then we are going to be doing these like that. And in this case, I don't see that seem Mrs. There you you aren't going to have to try to match those seems up, which is one of the nice things about this quilt. You don't have to stress about that, and I've got the other half here. What? She probably wouldn't put those right next to each other, but just for demonstration purposes. So it's going to be laid out like this where we're alternating the roots and branches in the four patches. We have one more step, one more cutting step to do before we start laying these out. So go ahead and do your four patches. However, many of the pattern specifies for your size, and next step is going to be cutting theseventies triangles for the side of the world. 10. Cutting Setting Triangles: now to finish the cutting for our setting triangles. I have my 24 inch ruler. It has to be the longer rule, better Matt and a 14.5 inch square in a nine inch square going to start out with the 14.5 inch square. When we do this, we want to be sure that we have the right part of the triangle as the Strait of Green. Because these are going to be Let's make this into a triangle because these are going to be set like this. This is going to be on the outside of the quote. So we want that to be on straight of grain so that it doesn't stretch this as I have it. Now, Will you cut a square as we did on the Strait of Green? The straight and cross greens are going to be along the outside. If I were to cut it just once, then that means that the bias on high pot news here is going to be on the outside and we don't want that. So we're actually going to cut it twice, which means that this is still going to be straight and cross screen. So we just want to try hard not to have bias on the outside when we do a quilt. All right, so I'm gonna take my 24 in true lor. However wide it is, I just need it long enough to go from corner to corner here, and I'm going to match up corner here and here, and then I'm going Teoh, I can hear in this played need to change it. All right, so there's one cut. But if I pull this apart, then here's that bias edge that ends up on the edge of the quotes and I don't want to do that. So I'm going to do a second cut this time going to the other two corners, crossing those. So I lie nose up here down in this corner because this ruler has a sticky back, it doesn't slide. I have to lifted in movement, all right, and now I will just cut that. So now I have four side triangles from that 1 14.5 inch block. So if we put this back to the square, here's the Strait of the Green or crossed. Either way, it's It's a straight line instead of the bias where it's going to stretch out. So this is going to be going on the outside of the quilt about a block here in a block here that's going to be a straight of grain on the edge of a quilt. So for the 14.5 inch squares, they're so large because you're going to cut them twice to yield for triangles. So you cut how ever many of those squares you cut according to the pattern. Now for the corner, we have the nine inch square, and if we were to full this one in half, corner to corner to make the triangle, it's going to sit on a quote like this. So this is gonna be the corner of the quilt here when I cut it once. That means the strait is still here on the outside, and that's exactly what I want on the corner. If I were to cut it twice as we did for the side for angles, then these air bias edges and I don't want those on the corner. So this one I'm going to cut just once, and you can stack the two that you cut the only need to whatever size quote you were making . You're going to need just two of these, but it once and there you have two of your corner triangles. Cut your other square is what, 98 squares. Well, and you'll have all four corners. So now we're ready to lay it out, get ready for sowing. 11. Putting the Quilt Top Together: right. I have these two rows together, and that's where the corner triangle would go. Now I want to. So these two rows to each other, So just is always I'm going to flip right sides together. And then these two seems because they're pressed in opposite directions. This one, the bottom one is going to my right and the top one is going to my left. They just nest right in against each other. And I am going to pin on that scene. At this point in my quilting life, I don't use many paint, many pins, but I do. And it intersections like this just because I want to make sure it stays that way when I'm sewing. And then if it looks like it isn't going to be incredibly straight in between those pins, I might put another opinion there. That looks pretty good, though, and I do so slowly enough, and I'll stop to check check to make sure that those edges are actually against lined up as I'm sewing. So now I'm going to, and I'll probably put a pin here to just to know where to start doing another one down here , so I'm going to So these two together, and then I'll come back and talk about this corner triangle. All right, These air So together the seams nested together there nicely. And now we're going to add this corner trying along again. It's just flip. And so, however, you'll want to center this roughly, you can either eyeball it by seeing if you've got about the same amount of dog here, off to the side, or if you're not comfortable doing that, then you can fold this in half. Be careful of this edge was its bias. And then you're going to flips. Fold this in half wrong sides together so you can find the center, and you can either pinch it a little bit, too. Put a crease there so you know where the center is. Or you could put a pin there. I can see the grease. You may not be able to Well, let me put it where it's at. So my creases right there And I could put a pin in the middle of this. If I like a swell, make sure I don't lose the center or you could press a little crease in there. Uh, cut a little notch in that. And then I just have to Pin wasn't very straight then I just have to match up those pins and go ahead. And so that corner on and when I finished with that will come back and show you about trimming sides of these. I got the corner on and I pressed it toward the corner piece. She could do it the other way. It's just much less resistance if you press it towards the corner piece. Once this is all put together, you're going to want to put a border on it. And you can see that if a this point, this is the edge of the quilt. At this point you tried to sell on the border, you're in a lot of trouble because this is a lot larger than it needs to be. This if you count this as you're seeing between this edge here and where these points are, that's a lot more than 1/4 of an inch. So you're going to want to trim this so that the edge is 1/4 of an inch away from these points. You want the points to appear but not be cut off. So here, for example, if I had cut that wrong or so did wrong, then one point might be fine and the other one far off. So we want thes points to be complete and not this much of a seam allowance. That's too much. So let me grab my ruler here. I'll show you how we're going to do that. Do this without mess in the corner. All right? So e have my ruler here, and I'm going to take my quarter inch line on my ruler, Joe Grand Chu is not probably going to be easy to see. I'm going to take my quarter inch lying on my ruler and I'm going toe line that up on both this point and this point. So there's my quarter inch line on that point, and there's my quarter inch line on that point. So now when I trim this with my rotary cutter, which I'll do once I had this all together, then I've got that quarter inch seam allowance. Um, actually, let me cut one of them here, and Sorry, I'm planning There's ago here, running all over. All right, So take my cutting mat and turn it here's cut it, make sure you can still see it. So here's my quarter inch line. Let's take them an inch there and that's not gonna work. There's my quarter inch line right here at this point, and there's my quarter inch lines at that point. And I'm scrambling this because I want this actual 45 degree line to be on that scene. So I've got 1/4 inch here quarter inch here, whenever on cutting. I try to find some other reference lines, so I've got one reference line here. But then, in order for things to really be square and straight, if I've got a 45 degree seem here and I can see if that 45 degrees is going to match up with what, that in its good right there. Okay, so now I'm just going to trim this, and actually, I want to do it enough so you can see me trim the corner as well. I am going to make this quilt in the end larger than a lap size, but so but I'm gonna have to do this corner anyway, So I'm going to do this. All right, so I got it lined up quarter inch ear. Quarter inch here. Actually, this is lining up pretty well as a straight there, you know, trim this. All right. So now I have when I go to so on my border, I've got a nice straight edge up to this Boyd and 1/4 inch seam allowance there. Then when I turned the corner here, I'm going to do just the same thing. So I will line up 1/4 inch on this point and 1/4 inch on that point. It is actually nice and square down here, so I can then trim that and then my corner, everything's all trimmed. As you work your way down the quilt, you will just keep lining up and always line up on two points even if it and, um, two points plus what you've already cut. So when I go further down here, I can explain this. So I've got another block down here. I'm going to line up this point again at the quarter inch, have already trimmed that, but I'm gonna line that up in 1/4 inch and then the next point at 1/4 inch and trim that. That's going to ensure that it just keeps straight with each other as you go along. So then you would go in, Just trim all of this. That what? You've got it all together? Of course, you could go in, trim all the sides so that you have 1/4 inch seam allowance from each of those points on the side. And next we talk about borders. 12. Bordeers: for the borders. You will want 5.5 inch strips and I'm going to cut these just like I did the strips for the blocks and we've got 5.5 inches here. I had already squared up my edge and I will just make as many blocks as many strips of this as the pattern calls for your size. Then I'm going to take two of those strips and sew them together. You can either do a diagonal scene, which a demonstrate on the in the pattern where you would take two different strips, lay them right sides together, market diagonal line there, and so on that line so that you would have a diagonal seen or you can just do a straight out straight scene. I'm probably going to do a straight seem to be honest with you. All right, so then you will have four sets of strips that are approximately five below that of 5.5 by approximately 80 inches, depending on how wide your fabric was and how big you that the salvage was that you turned off. I did not turn off the salvages on these on this one yet, but I will. So you will have four sets of those. And then we're going to measure your quilt in three different places the length of your quilt. And now I want to go back to paper again to show you how we're going to measure and fit those together. Traditionally, you would put the borders on the right and left sides first, Then press those out and then put them on the top in the bottom. And that's what I'm going to do here. We want to measure this length, but we've been dealing with a lot of bias here and on point. It can start to get a little, you know, funky. So we want to. Definitely not just so a strip of fabric on here. One of the borders are Florida strips on there and then just cut it off at the top of the bottom because your left side is possibly likely even to not be the same length as the right side. And then you end up with a quilt that skewed. So you've got a longer border over here on a shorter one here, and everything starts to go haywire. So when you are doing a border. You want to measure it in three places once in the center, then about center left and about center. Right. So take those three measurements, add them, and then divide by three to get the average length. The sides are not going to be the average length unless everything is very precisely cut. So it impressed which, if yours is absolutely congratulations, how come and take some lessons from you, they shouldn't vary a lot, but there will be some differences in it. And it's best to have the same size strip. And you ease that quilt top the middle of it to that size so that you end up with a quilt. That square. I'm not square, but you know what I mean. Square toe. So you're going to measure this in? Let's see what we got here. Even know how much this is. We're pretending this is my quilt, of course, because all right, so this actually here is this is a piece of paper cut straight. So let's say that this it's about 1/16 of an inch off, but we're going to say that 10 inches there and yours is going to be, you know, 72 or more, probably. And then I'm going to take another measurement over here and say, That's 10.25 and then I have one again. That is some 10. No, let's say nine 0.75 is to make my math easy here so that I'm gonna add those three together and that gives me 30 as an average are 30. And then I divide that by three. And 10 is the length that I want to cut those strips. Your math? Maybe a little tougher than that. I usually do it to the quarter inch eighth of Benin Sheeni. You can probably ease in pretty well, but I usually do pay attention to court of inches. So don't round up or gonna round up or down to the nearest quarter of an inch, shall we say so we're going to do it in three different places on the length of the quilt. So we're doing it in the center, one of the right, one on the left and average that. Then we're going to. So those strips on say, these air, the strips years will be straighter than that. Hopefully and then I'm going to press those toward the border measure this'll in three places again that within three places cut two strips that length, and then we will attach those here and here, and I'll demonstrate how we're going to do that fitting in easy. And if we need to and getting the borders attached. I'll see you back here with some borders because my quilt will be too unwieldy to show you this. Under the camera, I have pulled out a Christmas quilt top here, and I'm going to pretend that I'm adding on another border here, albeit of the same fabric which, admittedly, is a lot. So I have, uh, pieced two pieces of the border strip together was the scene here, and it's applied, so the scene is going to be reasonably noticeable. But that's plans for you, and this is kind of Ah, homespun sort of quilt anyway. Then I measure earthy quote. Top the length of the quote top in three different places, middle and sort of center right, center left and average. These those three measurements and cut two strips that length, and this is how I'm going Teoh at the strip to both of the sides each of the sides. So the first thing I'm going to do is fold the. We'll talk carefully in half, and then I'm going Teoh wrong sides together. And then I'm going to also fold my strip in half, also wrong sides together. And then I'm going to match these folds up, and I'm going to just pinch my finger there where the folds are and then open those both up . I've still got this held in the right place, so I know that the centers air matched and I will put a P in there. And then I'm going to go to one of the edges and match up the ends here, and I'll do the same on the other side matchup close to ends. I'm not worrying about in between just yet. Put a pin in there and now I'll go back to one side or the other, and now I just have to fit the fabric in here. And if I need to ease in, I can do that. This looks like it's actually in pretty good shape. The wolf top must be pretty square. I'm happy to say if you had something to ease in Let's say that or fold here. Let's say you had to ease something in then you could just the more you have to ease, the more pins you put in because you're trying to distribute all of the excess across the full length here because that means the smallest amount in each space between the pin. So it's less likely to tuck so you could just go through. And maybe I like to put it down, sort of spread it out and see how it's going to be and then just start putting pins in as often as I think I need them. If I need to ease something, I will just take a finger of that and and sort of scrape it against my thumb. That's up here just to kind of freaked the fabric along a little bit. Put a pin in it. If I need to do a little more, I will pin is often as I need to in order to control that excess and to just to distribute it across the length that I have between the pins here. So I will go ahead and pin this looks like I had a little bit down there just messed myself up demonstrating. So now I'm going to I didn't want all of that access to be down in this couple inch area, so I'm just sort of moving it along. And as you just distributed across, you're going to find that it's going to just about disappear unless you have got inches, inter more and then you probably need to look at your measuring or make sure your quote stop is actually straight. And then I would just do the same thing on the other inside here, pull out between center pin and end here, blowing things up. And usually if I have a seem underneath and I do here, I will put a pin in it just so that scene doesn't get turned as I so they'll do a basics class about So OK, now see, I've got a little I've got some excess here, which looks like a lot, but that's going to distribute out. Can you see how that's boat out there? So I'm going to just move this shorter piece of fat work. This the back is what I'm trying to ease in. I'm gonna move this just a little bit to my left, just a hair and then a little bit more and his other pen a little bit of or another. I don't want to try to stretch these to match because then it's just gonna be a ruffled mess when I'm finished and ruffled borders are not a good thing as long armor. If you send it to a long armor or if you're a long over, you will appreciate not having a rough border. It is not fun to deal with. All right, so then I've got that border that's not pin the way would like, and I actually I'm not a big Pinar. But when I got a long stretch of off two pieces of the Hebert together here than I do try to pin just because I'm not fiddling with it so much trying to line it up in the sewing machine so that I'm just going to stitch that side, I'll do the same thing on the other side. Press the borders, press the scene toward the borders. Then I'm going to measure the width of the quilt, which now includes those two borders. I'm gonna again measure it in three places. Center center left center right and then cut two strips that side that length and attached those borders to the other side, and then your quilt top is all finished. 13. Final Thoughts: thanks for joining me for the roots and branches class. I hope you learn some things. But most of all, I hope you had some fun. Don't forget to post your project Blacks fabric, quilt, whatever in the project section of the class page. If you enjoy the class, please take a couple of minutes to write a review. It helps other students to find the class. And it your comments help make me a better teacher. I hope to see you in another class soon. In the meantime, Happy quoting