Make Polymer Clay Earrings - Beginners | Shellie Cleaver | Skillshare

Make Polymer Clay Earrings - Beginners

Shellie Cleaver, Visual art + academic writing classes

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7 Lessons (36m)
    • 1. Polymer Clay Beginners Earrings Introduction

      2:40
    • 2. Polymer Clay Beginners Earrings Introduction

      2:08
    • 3. Making the Earrings 1

      5:00
    • 4. Making the Earrings 2

      14:37
    • 5. Sanding and Buffing

      7:32
    • 6. Thanks

      2:38
    • 7. Brief Teacher Introduction

      1:06
16 students are watching this class

About This Class

Join Sydney artist, Shellie, for this 32 minute beginners class.  She shares the basics that she has learned about making polymer clay earrings, and takes you step by step through creating a couple of designs.

In this class Shellie uses:


Sculpey Premo Clay

A pasta making machine to roll the clay

A metal blade to cut the clay

A white tile to make and bake the earrings on

Wet and dry sand paper in super fine and slightly rougher

A buffer machine - A Dremel with a buffing attachment

A drill and fine drill bit to create a hole for the earrings hook

Earring hooks and jump rings

You can make do with what you have available as this is a beginners class and we are all learning and making do with the equipment we have to hand.

Transcripts

1. Polymer Clay Beginners Earrings Introduction: Hello and welcome to Paula McLay for beginners. My name is Shelly. I'm a Sydney based artist, and I'm here to share what I've learned about making polar McLay earrings. There's quite a bit tonight. One example is a type of scum play to use. This is a skull P I've been using previously The Sculpting three, which I learned is actually for kids and hobbies. So I recommend using the primo brand because it's hard wearing much, much stronger and designed for artists and jewelers. When a range of colors I've got blue and green yellow sort of magenta, very flora pink, which I think I'll add some white, too, and a sparkly black on a lovely sort of graph. What great and somewhat additionally, you laid a tile so you actually uses to make the hearings on. But you can also then put that in the oven to bake thumb. I've got this little pack of circle cutters. They called micro circle cut colors, which could be used for making the whole for the hearing, for the findings to go in, but also to actually create designs within your hearing's themselves. Theo, Everything that's useful if you have it is a pastor machine because the clay needs to be worked and rolled through and also through the past machine. Get a very even surface to make your earrings with. So if you have one around, that's great. Everything that's really useful for making hearings of polo McLay is a set of little tiny site cutters. Okay, so that's Bibles and squares and triangles and circles and all sorts of things, so they're really useful little tool to have a swell. So in this class, I'm just going to show you what I would do to start making some earrings, these air in the basic techniques. I'm quite new to this process myself, but I thought it would be fun just to guard you through the process and share what I've learned to save you some time. Thank you for joining me for this class on beginners. Polymer clay earrings are hope. It's being really useful or hurt that some of the information I've shared has saved you some time and helps you to get started. It's a really fun and safe medium to work with, and there's endless possibilities for color combinations and techniques and just creating your own style and look through the polar McLay. Please share some images of the earrings that you've made, I'd love to say, and I'm sure everyone else would love to see what others have been making. We'll see you next time. 2. Polymer Clay Beginners Earrings Introduction: Hello and welcome to Paula McLay for beginners. My name is Shelly. I'm a Sydney based artist, and I'm here to share what I've learned about making polar McLay earrings. There's quite a bit tonight. One example is a type of scum play to use. This is a skull P I've been using previously The Sculpting three, which I learned is actually for kids and hobbies. So I recommend using the primo brand because it's hard wearing much, much stronger and designed for artists and jewelers. When a range of colors I've got blue and green yellow sort of magenta, very flora pink, which I think I'll add some white, too, and a sparkly black on a lovely sort of graph. What great and somewhat additionally, you laid a tile so you actually uses to make the hearings on. But you can also then put that in the oven to bake thumb. I've got this little pack of circle cutters. They called micro circle cut colors, which could be used for making the whole for the hearing, for the findings to go in, but also to actually create designs within your hearing's themselves. Theo, Everything that's useful if you have it is a pastor machine because the clay needs to be worked and rolled through and also through the past machine. Get a very even surface to make your earrings with. So if you have one around, that's great. Everything that's really useful for making hearings of polo McLay is a set of little tiny site cutters. Okay, so that's Bibles and squares and triangles and circles and all sorts of things, so they're really useful little tool to have a swell. So in this class, I'm just going to show you what I would do to start making some earrings, these air in the basic techniques. I'm quite new to this process myself, but I thought it would be fun just to guard you through the process and share what I've learned to save you some time. 3. Making the Earrings 1: Okay, so I've just unwrapped a block of polar McLay and cut a piece off. This graphite color is actually quite hard in texture, so it's going to take quite some working and warming it up with my hands to get it into a consistency where it will actually go through the pasta machine. You can see on the edges there kind of burqa part of it, so it really needs a lot more work to soften it up. Other colors will be easier to work and to soften up to just keep going until it's malleable and soft and pliable. Now, this color is a very hot pink, so I think I'm going to add some white to it just to turn it down a little bit. This will demonstrate how you can actually mix two colors. Do you need to work both of them so they actually become softer and more malleable so that they will combine, and then he can simply put them together and push the two colors together and just keep working it until it goes from being a marbled combination of the two into a smooth single color. So I finished combining the pink and white, and I now want to roll the polymer clay into sausages into thin lines that I can lay across my graphite. So I've just taken a bit of the clay rolling with my finger. So I've now got this fine string off pink polo McLay, and I'm going to cut sections of this up and lay it across my graphite sheet. And of course, this is going to stand up off the surface of the graphite a little bit. But that's fine, because I'm going to run it back through the past machine. Once I've finished adding it, you just need to gently press down these paces. So that way, he to the surface. But it doesn't need to be squashed on a such So with this string of blue or green polymer clay. Instead of laying the string of it on, I'm cutting little bits off with a blade and laying them on as separate pieces onto my surface, making sure all of the little paces air adhered. I'm going to pop it through the past machine on the widest setting, and you'll notice that it's sort of squashed out the bits of color. So now I can add more to this design and just keep adding bits and then putting it through the past machine until I've reached a patent and a design that I'm happy with in this case , I think it made somewhat so be adding some of that. Okay, so let's see how this looks When it goes through the past machine, you can see it squashed the white bits, but it's still got quite a bit of definition. I think this design is good enough now to cut out some small circle shapes, which are later turn into hearings. When I pushed the shape cutter down into the clay, I twist it to get a nice clean shape and then pop pop it out with my finger. Keep in mind how you're gonna fit the the cutter onto the page onto the shade of polymer clay. In this case, I haven't left enough space to get the 4th 1 So to deal with that, I'm going to push the remaining play together and then put it back through the past a machine so it has messed up the design a little bit, but actually it's similar enough to work 4. Making the Earrings 2: - So I'm starting another design here, the shade of yellow. Then I'm going to add some of my flora pink from the previous hearings. Makesem sausages out of the out of the clay. I've now put it through the past a machine to flatten it out, and I'm cutting a straight edge on either side. I'm now going to use the blade just to cut little squares out of the pink and put it across the yellow surface. - I'm going to add fine blue lines of polar McLay to this design made sure all the pace is stuck onto the sheet and I'm gonna wind it through the the pasta machine. And that's the impact it's had. I think it needs a bit of what? So cut some more white polo McLay. - I'm placing the pieces of white, sometimes overlapping the pink, sometimes overlapping the blue, sometimes not overlapping anything other than the yellow. Just to get some variety in the effect. This is what I've ended up with. So now I think I'll cut my shapes out for the year rings. I'm going to try the small square shape for this one. Actually, I've decided to go the large circle looks like I should be out to get to cut out of that pace, make lovely earrings, disclaiming up the edges carefully without affecting the actual shape of the the play. This primo artist quality clay is really good for that, because it's not so soft that you can really do a lot of damage. It is robust enough to hold its shape and allow you to tidy up the edges, which is really, really helpful. So with these leftover bits, I don't really like to waste anything, so I'm going to just push it together and includes some of the leftover clay from the previous pair and put it through the machine and see what I get Now. At some point, you will end up with something very muddy and not usable by doing this. But it's a bit of an experiment, and it's worth just trying it out. So I'm probably didn't half and putting it back through until I get a design that I'm happy with. An until the sheet looks like it's actually holding together as one that I'm going to cut a few shapes out. - Okay , so another pair of might start with the blue clay this time working it with my hands until it warms up and softens up so that I can put it through the past machine a few times to condition the clay. And this sheet will form the basis off my earrings. So I wanted to be a shape that will allow me to cut several pieces out of it for whatever size earing shape I'm going to do. I've got some white clay here. I'm going to roll it into a fine string shape, cut it in half with my blade and lay it on to the cell Leadsom flurry pink. So I've laid it across the middle and I'm gonna put that through the pasta machine. You can see it, squished it into an interesting we leave shape in the middle. I decided it needs a bit more detail before I cut out my shapes of the hearings. So I'm going to add some more white. But this time they'll be final lines of white little flicks. So I've added all of my little white paces and one right through the middle of the pink squiggle. But I think it could do with a bit more pink as well to integrate into the design. So I'm trying to make a really thin little string of pink that I can cut into paces and add to the background there. So once these added and press down or push it through the pasta machine again and this is the outcome of that's there we go. No, I think from this I can get some interesting hearing designs so you can just hold your little cutter above the shapes and see, you know what composition you like of the colors and lines again. I've missed out on my third pace, so I'm going to have to pace the shape back together again. Try and get that fourth pace out of it. Fold it in half, push it through again because you really don't want loose beats coming apart. You need it to be a coherent shade. That's pretty good outcome. - So I love pushing these pieces together to get more earrings out of them. You don't wanna waste clay if you can avoid it, so I just keep holding it up and pushing it through the machine again and combining them and you get actually unexpected and interesting results that way a little bit of black, and this will create a bit of contrast. So we'll try that up. - Okay , so now we'll see what shapes I can get out of this piece. Keeping in mind that you do need them to match slightly is hearing. So you want them to have the same colors and some sort of coherent composition? If they're gonna be a pair now, you will reach a point where you need to stop pushing, Um, the polymer clay through the machine, and you need to just accept it. That's the end of the run. Um, but I'm going to add a little bit of yellow to either side of this one and just see what it get, what I get. Fold it in half, puppets her again. Make sure all of the pace is a well combined. Pop it through 1/3 time. Okay, that's quite an interesting little pace. Looking for a composition where I have similar colors coming through. - So here the earrings I've just made on this video sitting on the tile, ready to go into the oven. You see how diverse the designs are, how fun the colors can be and really how the possibilities are unlimited for this technique . So pop them in the oven for 131 130 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes per six millimeters of depth, even though these a thin I'm putting them in for around 20 to 25 minutes. 5. Sanding and Buffing: So for the standing, we need wet and dry sandpaper. You'll need a very fine piece, but also something slightly coarser. Need a bowl of water and dip the paper and the earring into the water and sand with the courses sandpaper just to take all of the rough surface off of the earrings. Don't forget to send around the edges to take off any sort of hard edges. You want it to be nice and smooth around the edge. Now it's time for the finer sandpaper. Okay, this is going to really start to create a beautiful silky surface on your Parliament hearings, so you'll notice when you send for a bit and then you run your finger over it. It should feel a lot. Lots mover. It's up to you how far you go with this process. We're going to be buffing after this, so that will further refine the surface. I'm using a Dremel he, which is a machine you can get from Bunning's with a a buffing head attached, and this is going to allow me to actually create a nice, glossy surface on my earrings. Quite a robust finish so you can play around with what speed you have it set up. In the end, I discovered that the fastest setting required a bit more control but actually achieved the shine on the surface more effectively. So you just have to hold the hearing and work that soft cloth as it spins across the surface of the earrings. And be careful when during this work, because the earing con's suddenly flick out of your hands, it can actually catch on the edge and flick around. So make sure there's nothing or no one around who could be hurt by one of your hearing pieces suddenly flying off off the table. It's all of the hearings have now been beautifully buffed, and they're ready to be made into a pair of earrings. So for this, we need the hearing set. You need to think about the design and how you want it to hang off someone's a year and look from the left side in their right side. We're going to need sterling silver earring hooks to jump rings, which could be of any kind of metal, Um, a drill and a drill pace, and a couple of Joe replies. Careful of your fingers when you're drilling the hall into the earring. You don't want Teoh hurt your finger. And the trick with this is once you've drilled right through from the front side is to actually come at it from the back and drill through the whole you've already created because that creates a very clean finishing a clean hole. Otherwise, you might have bits that chip off the back orbits that a stuck in the center of the whole. And you really want to get a nice clean finish, So slip it over those bits I'm trying to clear much better off just drilling back through. So to attach the earing hook to the earring, we need to open the jump ring using the pliers. So I hold the pliers on either side off the little cuts in the in the ring and just twist it so it opens, as you can see here and now, you can feed that through the whole of the hearing human clothes that back up with the two pliers. I usually try and make sure I get a reasonable I'm joined on that because you don't want the hearing hooks slipping out and you don't want anything rough or untidy. So now grab my earing hook, and, um, I need to twist the vice. That little hook need to twist it sideways just so that it sits properly on the earring. Open it up and fade it through. Another approach is to open the jump ring to fade it through the earring, twist the base of your earring hooks, so that's facing the right way, but not open it up, and now you can actually feed it onto the open jump ring and then close the jump ring with the earring hook on. 6. Thanks: thanks for joining me on this beginner's class for making Pola McLay hearings in this class of actually looked at some of the materials that you will need, and we've looked at some basic techniques for preparing the clay and getting it ready to make. We've used a pastor machine to roll out the sheets of clay and tiles to prepare hearings on and also bake them. And we've also tried some different ways of creating patterns and colors and fix with the clay. I also have shown you how Teoh finish your earrings, how to you sand them and Buffum and then how to attach the hearing findings and the jump rings. So please do share what you've made. I'd love to see it all upload what I've made, and I look forward to seeing you for the next class. I've made lots of classes on painting and drawing and watercolors, color theory, endless classes for you to take, and you'll find that each one you do your skills will develop and grow. So let's have a look at how to follow me on school Share. Here is the full I button. Click on this, and if you hover your mouse over this part here. It'll take you through to my profile as well. Under my prayerful, you'll see all of the classes I've created, and you'll be able to see the range of classes you could take. So here are highlight a couple of my classes color mixing basics for absolute beginners. Copying the Masters with Shelly Learn to paint. Watch me work. Embrace fear in the creative process. Begin is charcoal drawing How to paint gloss and beginners. Figure drawing gesture. I'm creating new outclasses all the time on. I'm really looking forward to the opportunity to support you as you develop your own creative skills and make your way on your own creative journey. So let's start making stuff. 7. Brief Teacher Introduction: so from a creativity is central to what I do. It really feeds. May I think creativity is vital to our well being and is worth pursuing and is worth investing time in. My name is Shelly. I'm a Sydney based artist, Andi. I work across many mediums. I studied oil painting at the National at School in Sydney. It was a beautiful sandstone jail with a very traditional Italian based structure, so we learned drawing every stage of education. By taking these classes step by step, you'll build your skills, your knowledge and also you experience and confidence. And that's the thing that's worth pursuing, because in the end, you're an artistic practice could really sustain you and sustain your life. So I really hope that these classes help you on your creative journey. And they make doing these creative activities less scary and give you some confidence to move forward in your in practice. Thanks for stopping by. I really hurt my classes of helpful for you. You might even say my to studio assistants Ali and Millie in some of the classes