Long Stem Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare
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10 Lessons (59m)
    • 1. Long Stem Earrings

      1:48
    • 2. Long Stem Earrings - materials

      1:33
    • 3. Long Stem Earrings - equipment

      2:53
    • 4. Long Stem Earrings - soldering equipment

      3:38
    • 5. Long Stem Earrings - preparing the bezels

      11:14
    • 6. Long Stem Earrings - preparing the stems

      9:34
    • 7. Long Stem Earrings - soldering

      6:05
    • 8. Long Stem Earrings - setting the stones

      12:09
    • 9. Long Stem Earrings - earwires

      8:12
    • 10. Long Stem Earrings - final thoughts

      1:56

About This Class

Welcome to the Long Stem Earrings class! This elegant pair of earrings has been designed to highlight the beautiful purple amethyst stones hanging at the bottom of the drops. Both they and the simple texture on the long stems that give the project it's name catch the light beautifully as they swing gently.

This is a great class if you want to learn some beginner stone setting techniques, want to learn a few hints and tips to make sure that your stones are set securely, or want to practice your soldering skills.

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This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me. In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is a beginner class as the stone setting uses a premade bezel cup.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers most of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #36 in the #52earrings challenge.

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Transcripts

1. Long Stem Earrings: Hello. My name's joint in the I'm a joy designer on tutor from South First UK on Welcome to the Understand Hearings class. This is a simple stone setting class ideal for beginnings that it uses to lovely. Fight will meet around Capitol stones. Stones that have a flat bottom. Andi don't top. Although the stones are small, round stones are the easiest to start with because there were no corners to worry about. Corners of a little bit trickier come system setting. I've also tried to make classes but more accessible by using pre made personal cups rather than having you make your own teeny tiny ones were first starting out. Although don't worry, I will be teaching how to make your own vessel cups in our house. I'm using a lovely, deep, richly kind AMAs stones in this project, and I'm keeping a focus on them by keeping the rest design fairly simple. I've added links to the hearings by soldering textured piece of thick wires, the settings Andi, I've also made my own here y six, please, the design. This class is passed. The 52 evenings changed. I set myself in 2017 design and film tutorials for 52 earrings have a look out for the hash tag. 52 hearings on Instagram and Facebook could be like to see some scenes photos until two tips of what's coming next. So if you're ready, let's get started by having a look, materials and equipment that we're going to need to make the hearings. 2. Long Stem Earrings - materials: These are the material, so I'm going to use to make the earrings. The focus of the long stone earrings are a pair of beautiful deep purple amethysts. Thes are five millimeter round cabbage, John's Cabbage John's being don't topped and flat back stones. The stones not beat. They haven't got hold through them, so what we're going to need to do to be able to use them is to set them in silver. You can make your own puzzles, so the colors that go around cabbage John's. But I'm actually as this is a big year project. I'm using 25 millimeter pre mate basil cups. You can get better cups in a wide range of shapes and sizes from a good range of supplies. The long stems sick of the earrings, their names are made from 1.2 millimeter sterling silver around wire and 1.2 millimeter is actually halfway between a 16 and 17 gauge wire. I've also got so no 0.8 millimeter why, and I'm going to use that to make the ear wise. It's my favorite gauge of wire 20 gauge wire to use for making air wines because it's still enough to go through the holding your ears comfortably, but it's thick enough and strong enough to be out to hold its shape. 3. Long Stem Earrings - equipment: These are the hand tools that we're going to need to make the long stem earrings. My first job will be preparing the vessel for the AM a thief stones that I'm going to be using. I'm going to use both a six inch flat file on and a needle flat file for that job are then move on to starting to prepare the stem that gives the hearings their name. I'm going to cut the wife the stem Using the wire cutters on Guy might use theme nine on your pliers to smooth out any kinks in the wire before I cut them, and I'll use the roulette. You help me more account the amount of why that I want to cut. I'm going to text to the stems with my favorite cross being hammer to give the lines texture a simple texture across the wire. Andi, I will support the wire on the steel bench block with a leather cushion underneath. Last I hammer it after everything soldier together I'm going to need to set the stones on day. I'm going to use a better pusher Onda a burn Isha to help me to do that, I prefer to use a bench knows burnish. I find those easiest to use, but you can also get burnishes that have got long, straight noses to them as well. And if you haven't got a basher, even something like a metal knitting needle will do the job. I've got a rubber block here because I prefer to do my stone sitting sitting on top of that . It's a nice firm work surface. It's raised up a little bit, obviously from the desk, so it allows me to get the tools at a good angle up against the stone setting. Andi, because it is rubber, it's not going to put any scratches or marks on the silver as I move the silver around on it. The rest of the tools are here to form the ear wires. The wire cutters, often abused to cut the wire on began the night on. Your plants are used to smooth any kinks out of the wire. Andi, I'll be using the round nose pliers on the flat nose prize to help form the shape of the ear. Wives are form the U shape of the ear wise around stepped Mandrell. But as you may have heard me say before. You can use anything that is suitably sized and round the barrel of a pen. For example, I'll be using the needle file to file the ends of the ear wives smooth, and I'll use the flashing hammer toe Hamel, a short section of the ear wire to give it some added strength. And again, I'll be hammering on top of the steel bench block with another cushion underneath to keep the noise down. This is a soldering project, so it's also have a look at the soldier equipment that we're going to need. 4. Long Stem Earrings - soldering equipment : This is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap. On top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans it a couple oxides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least are her safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Long Stem Earrings - preparing the bezels: The first step for making the earrings is to prepare the basil cups. The metal cups are made to standard sizes. Onda, also standard heights and because they're cast in a mold they really are, was close to being the same shapes and sizes. Each other's possible re closer, being very, very standard. Now the stones, although they are sold as a certain size, they because they're more of a natural substance that are some variations in them. Off they've being cut. And you might be hard to tell on this that this one here is ever so slightly taller. Turn the one on the right. I put my finger besides note, but you can see so come down really low so you can get a look at this. So this means that because of the natural variation the stones, you need serious a bit of work to the best of cups to prepare them before you can actually set stones in them. Every started that preparation on the Battle Cup on the left. You might be on to tell that the silver is fractionally lower than the wall of the metal cup on the right, and when I say fractionally, I mean less than a millimeter. But that milk, that lesser millimeter is still important. If you have a look at how far up the basil war comes on stone on the left, it comes up high enough. So there's enough height toehold stone in place, but not so high that when it's pushed over the stone, it will hide too much the stone, whereas the stone on the setting on the right, that setting is still too high. If I left the setting like that, it would hold a stone in. But it wouldn't be the best finish, because the silver wall is high enough that it would actually cover more the stone and it needs to. And it's the stone that we want to see in this, not the silver. So it's always a balance between having the wall high enough. So it's a stoning, but not so high does it covers too much. The stone. Andi. You will get quicker recognizing when it's the right height. The more often you do this type of project, preparing thesis, it ing, removing a little bit from the height of the basil war. It's quite an easy job to do, and that's what I'm going to show you how to do. Now I'm going to use a six inch needle file to file off some of the material at the top off this second metal setting system, the vessel setting that was on the right on the previous shot to the one that is a bit too high, Onda, although using such a big file on such a small thing, might seem overkill. But it just means that I've got a nice work and I saw a large working area for this next job, which I find it will be easier. I find using a needle file a small file for this to friedly Andi. This is the best wait I found. Get a nice even height to the better war, which is important. So I got to the needle file with the handle saying site out of view off the h of the table , which is why it's able to tell a lie flat, which makes it easier to do this job at the handle back down again. On going to do. He's poor. The best cup down towards the handle. Remember, the finally works in one direction so working in that way in relation to silver doesn't matter where you move the silver or the file is honest. I'm moving the right direction towards each other. As I'm wrote down every now and again, just going to twist thier best cup around a little bit, and that's going to help me get a nice even height. Does your fingers naturally going to push more on one side than the other. Rotating the best will cover a little bit every now and again helps to eliminate that problem. Going to do now is part stone back in. Okay, I'm going to lower down so I can look at that. I look at this stone eye level and see whether it's the right height. When it is the right height, I will lower the camera again so you can see it is I level as well. I'm going to do that just a little bit more to put a stone out of the way ago. Nice and safe. It is worse doing a little bit of filing and then check it because you don't want to go too far. If you do, you have to find a difference to home will find a different battle cup. Uh, so check it again. Hey, I'm happy with the height of that. So I'm going to put the two basil cups together again on dumb show you them both high level . I'm happy with the height of both vessel cups. Now, this is the one that I've just been working on the wall in the right. It is still a teeny type of a fracture of a millimeter taller than the one they left. But it is the right height for this stone. Um, this stone has got a bit of a a steeper hill. If you like a steep slope going up to the top of the habits on Andi for that reason, the war needs to be the highest, isn't it? Will be a bit a bit lower. Was this one? It's got a different curve to it. So But the, uh, the height, sir, is good. What I need to do now so is remove a little bit of metal from the outside of each fossil cup. I'm going to put a bit for bevel on the vessel. Uhm, I'm going to use a digital file to do that The reason why I'm going to do it is that it's going to give a neater finish around the outside. It's a better war is too sick in relation to the size of stone. Then, as you push it in to set the stone, hold everything in place. It can bunch up political button to give a less neat, smooth finish. So that reason I'm going to remove a little bit. The standard rule is that you remove no more than 1/3 of the material from around the outside. Okay, stones out if they would come out of here. So I'm going to try and do is, um, whenever I'm working, keep one left on the right. I'm not going to put use the chip off the needle file to to move this and hold its separately. I that do it so might not be able to sit on the camera might have that catch light a little bit, but I've used the typically need a fire to put a scratch at the bottom of that vessel cup, and that will remind me that that metal cup goes with a slightly tallest stone on because it's underneath where the Stone is going to be. It won't be seen once it's set. It was I'm going to do to the special Cup. Now the top is up here. Bottle was down here. Then I'm going to hold the needle file at about 45 degrees to the top of the metal Cup. Andi, I'm just going to file a rally outside to put that devil in groups so small. Of course I'm trying to hold it so that you can get it the best view possible of what I'm doing. They're not actually holding it as tight as I would do normally. You might put up with me dropping it a couple more times. Not funny. All the way down on dime. Not find very much just removing a little bit to the top. So it's one done. Number two, - right . That's both of them Done all the way around again. So give you another close subsidy. Can see the effect that it gives. I've put the stones back inside the basil cups because that seems to be up. Teoh help the camera to focus on the silver a little bit better. Everything is so small, but you should just about be able to see that the right is catching differently around the top of the setting on. It's just where that light is different. That's I saw where the firing is. So it is not a great deal of finding it all. It's just removing a little bit of silver, no more than 1/3 of the metal wall around the very top of the stone setting. And that's kind Teoh. Give Anita fish, I said, toothy setting when we finished, So I'm now going to move on and prepare the stems that are going to be soldered on to the stone settings. 6. Long Stem Earrings - preparing the stems: are forming the wire out of 1.2 millimeter round sterling silver wire. You could use a heavy gauge your wife you wanted to. I wouldn't really go anything of the 1.2 because you do want something that's nice and strong to former structure of the earrings. So first things I'm going to do is used the night on your players just to smooth out to make sure that there aren't any kinks in. So what, Andi, I'm going to cut off too. Three centimeters lengths of the why? Because I've got a nice ah, really good pair of wire cutters. Although they were bitter, it's already beat enough and well used. Now They are really good and I sharp one. So make old Lindstrom, which is very good. So they will country nicely through this thickness. If your Wildcats isn't signal, you might each user juris sore. So what? 13 centimeter pace Andi to So they are going to form the basis of this stems. You could go a little bit sicker if you wanted to start a little bit longer, rather maybe up to 4 4.5 centimeters. If you want a longer pair of drops just going to do one thing to the why before I hammer it . And that is to use the needle file just to file the ends because the workhouses can, uh, shake the wild orbit at the end. And I wanted to be nice and flush it E Shen's I want to take very long, as you can see. Okay, lets poses. I was filed. The next thing I'm going to do is give him the texture. So I'm going to be using my favorite cross being hammered to do this. My humble gifts. Nice little lines along the wire. Andi, it's gonna hammer straight up and down on one side of each, going all the way to the end. Now, you could use a different hammer if you wanted to, But don't use a hammer that gives too big a mark because these are everything pieces Andi just wanted to before I have other second piece. Just remind you that this type of hammer across being hammer cannot. She stretched the silver a little bit. 20 linings up nicely. It's not. She stretched the silver. This is the one at the top here that's being hammered. It's actually stretched it by about a millimeter on. That's because the wind moves right angles. The head of the homicide stretches in that direction. Inks see with around hammer right Anguishes every single direction, which was a cross being hammer straight hammer. My time was just the structures of some for a little bit. And I'll tell you why that is something to be aware off when you're using this hammer on this project in a moment right on this one should twist over. I do definitely just want the texture on one side. So who's both bits of wire textured? That takes just cash, sir, The light. Nice. See, Next thing I want to do is form a loop at one end of each piece of wire. I'm going to use the round nose pliers to help to do that. Now the hammering has flattened the wire out ever so slightly. Eso I am going to be careful as I turn this to make sure some keeping the texture front has flattened, working and twisted, busy turning. Now, if you haven't turned a loop before, if you're not comfortable with doing that, then I've attached a downloadable pdf with step by step photos and instructions on how to do that to class materials. Did you have a look at that? Um, might be good. I did have a look because this is quite a small thing to do. Fingers and tools a little bit bigger, so it will help you get a clearer, better view of it. So So I'm going to do is hold the wire about asserted the way down the nose of suppliers. The further down towards the handle you go. The plant knows apart gets bigger, there be tapered, so you get a bigger loop. But I served the weight down is good, so I'm going to use supplies. This wise actually become, um, quite stiffened with the hammering on and, uh, or such 1.2 millimeters. So just twisting the wire around slowly to form a loop light, sober loop is sitting on one side at the moment, pointed, sitting up at the top. So I'm going to put the applies back in at the very bottom of the leap and just you supplies to pull suppliers back on match pools. The loop back as well. That's the 1st 1 done 2nd 1 sack the same, but there's the way down. If you want to make absolutely certain that you are putting the wire the same distance and applies each time, you can put a Sharpie mark on that. So gonna hurt suppliers will affect their use in any way whatsoever. Turn the wire around even some time because it is safer, harder wire, because I don't want to twist it. So again it's sitting to one site. Applause by King pulls a while back, so it's a bit more so. It's sitting on the top when I say I'm going to do in the 1st 1 is just use. Nigel applies just to twist that a little bit so that the texture section a wire is definitely pointing in the right direction. There we go. That's definitely front. I'm happy with that now what I'm going to do. Before I sold out these onto stone settings that we prepared in the previous section, video class is just double check that they are the same length. Remember, I talked about the hammer changing the length of the wire. Well, if I had Hamed slightly heavier on one piece of wire than the other or if I have formed a slightly loop well one than the other, then the links of the wire on this section would be slightly different, however, as soon I see much top. If they were different, then ideally, use theme the needle files from a tiny bit wire, or if it was more than half a millimeter or so to remove their use. The wire cuts is just a snip it off, but now everything is ahead. So I'm now going to soldier the metal cups on the bottom Most stems, however, I have to take the stones out first. 7. Long Stem Earrings - soldering: our Portugal's for prepares pieces Silver Lotus Organization because now it's time to solder them together. So what two stems from the loops of the top onto the ear wise, we're going to go through the loops. What? The two prepared vessel cups have also got 12 pieces of Easy Soldier renews Easy soldier because there's only one soldier joined on each hearing if there was more than one, so to join them, we start with a high melting temperature of soldier and then work our way down as we did more, more sore joints. So I'm going to do is very much like, really, when I sold its such fittings onto the back of earrings in other classes and see the flux just here as you so a tip the end of the wire influx. I'm going to melt a piece of soldier onto the end of each wire. So that means why, Who's got the soldier? Exactly where I wanted to pay. Going to do the same with the 2nd 1 in the flux. Melt the soul, Julian. Thank you. So I'm going to do now is just take a moment or two to line everything I just sent a piece of what over first thing to check is that you definitely got the texture up with Top Rick around. So I get a a bit of you because I want the, um the stones at the bottom, definitely to be evenly Once I didn't want them sitting one site. I don't want it sitting on one side of the wire. The other I went sitting nice in the middle. Oval Stones also works really well for this project, but you would have to pace free more careful attention. You would do with circles to make sure that the ovals lined up nicely. I'm happy with that round again. This way. I think carefully without that may be I think that she that just making sure those two pieces were touching. So soldier is now on this stem here at the bottom of it, and on here as well. So what I'm going to do now is heat up both pieces on Once he gets the right temperature were apply it a bit more heat down to the bottom because the soldier flows to the hottest part of the silver. So by making the bottom with a stone setting itself that little bit hotter. The soldier will flow from, as they will should flow from the stem onto the better cup to join those two together. I don't need money. More blocks that already flux Stare on Stem Soldier will flow. It's a case of making sure it flows to the right part. So beating everything up see the everything you change of red so private heat more. The bottom here when we go might have seen a bit of a flash of silver here at the bottom as a soldier melted and it's some Have you soldiers, the two together, me good. It's all in one piece. It's likely for spoon. So what I realized was pretty more heat down here was it wasn't flowing almost immediately , which is what I would expect it to do so but a bit more heat into the stem, which was a lot of the largest piece of silver relative to the Battle Cup, but more heat in here and then went back to eating down the bottom. And then everything flowed again. The 2nd 1 smooth, everything. She gets a bunch of you. He should be sing up more heat initially into the larger special silver PPL on the color on the Metal Cup that is a small piece of that went to melt it. There we go, and once the color on door. So the darker appearance, the flux was telling me that I was at the right temperature. I don't sweat more heat to the bottom to make that. The hottest part on the soldier has flown to join the two together, so they need to go in the quench parched to cool down. The pickle popped to clean up Andi. Then I will set of stones in the puzzle cups. 8. Long Stem Earrings - setting the stones: long stem drops with stone settings at the bottom and now out of the pickle. Andi, I've also given them a nice polish in my tumble polisher, so shine and the texture is really catching on like beautifully now. But I had to do that at this stage because it's not a good idea to put semi precious stones in a tumbler, especially tumbled that, sir fabric faster like minus. That's also especially true amethyst, which is one of the less strong seven precious stones. So I put the Stones hopes the right way up in there we go in the settings. I double checked that I have gotten right way rounds. That's the tour a stone in a setting that had a couple scratches, that the bottom of those scratches went shows through. They want a strong or deep enough for that, but they just about me to remember groups as opposed pushing on the floor. They just allowed me to remember which way around that should go. So my next job, now that put the better push back up again, it's see you special pusher to surprise prices. It's names. Just push the vessel up against the stone and rocking over, but there are a couple of things to tell you about. First, you want to keep working your way back and forth across the stone. You don't want to start your one position on work. Your way will weigh around because by the time you got to last week's the setting, the silver would've bunch stop a little on the bigger the setting, the more that bunching up it's going to be because there's more material, um, in involved, and you're so you don't want to just push at the top city you want to push from the bottom , include the bottom, very bottom of the setting in your pushing as well. And then it's rocking up. It's a very slow, steady and firm movement. You don't want to be too quick because you could slip. So what? I'm going to start at the bottom here, just going to put my son there so that its hold everything in place. I will push up against the vessel pushing and rock up because it's a slow, steady and firm movement. I'm not risking the better push scraping across the top of the stone. I bring this setting back in again. Lying them up together should hopefully be able to see that the bottom of this setting is bit flatter in this one where it's being pushed in and up against the stone. I put this one safely. Ask the way again. No, I know. I said I need to make sure you push it the bottom as well. But obviously here, where the step is, I've actually sold it. Stem at the bottom. So in this case, you just have to do your best. So resting, placing the buzzer pusher on that stem. I'm pushing in and walking over. Now you may have noticed I didn't scrape the basil pusher along silver because that would have left a mark on the stand. It was placing, pushing up. I'm looking over. I'm going to do say no, I've done nor south I'm going to do East west. So again, portion Andraka on the reason why One of the reasons why I like to do so setting this one broke is that I can hold my hand sigh off the block. It means that the better pusher is at the right angle, took meat and come up against the better so that Basil is actually looking quite squared off. Now it's being pushed on four sides. So what I need to do now have done north, South, East, west. I used to Northeast, southeast, and someone will northeast, southwest, and then keep crossing over. So So I bring that back into focus for you, Um, Pete crossing over the stone so that I'm not having that bunch up material. So something to do now I'm going to push in all the extra bits. Quit criss crossing over the stone until that vessel is nice and smooth. Yeah, so I moved out the way I'm probably I don't think Cameron. - Hey , so my fleet that startups are gel That's better. Going to come in for a close up now so you can see the difference between the two. I hope he can see that the stone setting on the left looks a lot smoother around the stone . It's being curved inwards a little bit where it's a stone setting on the right doesn't curl around the stone as much isn't smoothed over the stone. So the one left. Why? Just being working on is nearly set about one more job to do to that? I'm going to use the better push up on the unset stone, The one on the right, Andi. Then I'm going to use the Punisher to show you how to finish the setting. So again, Thank you. Same with this setting. Going to smooth push the better war up against the stone on then over it, Andi cyclists aims before I'm going crisscrossing back in force across the stone to get the smoothest finish. - Now that job stunk. I need you. Move on on. Use the burner shop. The job of a Bernie shirt is to smooth out silver to help to smooth out any marks there might be in silver left over from using the better pusher on DTI. Give things of a polish as that's going on. On the same time, it's going to make sure that the vessel wall is smoothed nicely up against this stone I use about knows burn Isha You can get straight ones as well, but I might refer the bent nose of further the feel of them. Well, I suppose it's partly what you get used to. So gonna hold the setting between finger and some just gonna work on one section, but the time might be hard to see that the top is becoming a little bit showing you. That's why I was difficult keeping us in focus because it's so small. Camera wants to focus them, but what I do on my bigger hands and bigger tools I will show you close up now off one stone that has bean burnished and one that hasn't say you can see a contrast. You should hopefully be able to see that the setting that's processed the camera is a little bit smoother, little bit shiny at the top is a bit closer up against the stone, for example. I can see it up here. All the settings I haven't burst yet. That's only to be pushed little bit tighter. Up against the stone on the burners show will help to do that job for me. So I'm going to do now. Remove this one safely out of the way. So what about knows, Bernie, Chef on and exactly seems before petal pusher voting about the dust. Just going to work my way round the burns shows around with the burnish around stone setting just to make sure that everything is smooth up against that string. A bit more work on that spots that I said needed to be pushed against it a bit better. Onda should look a bit more. There was. Well, okay. So to such stones, the next job is to make the ear wise and to fish off the earrings. 9. Long Stem Earrings - earwires: I've cut to 4.5 centimeter lengths off the North 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge wire on. I'm going to use such to now form a pair of ear wise to finish off the earrings. I'm going to start the year. Wise off with an eye loop was simple. Loop on. Remember that I've touched a step by step photo guide on how to do that. The class. We need it. So why are about 1/3 of the way down? Apply us on Just going to twist supplies Round two. Form a loop with the cut end meeting up with the tail. I do the same with this one, so but my fingers thumb close to where I am working to support the wire. And as I turned the pliers, it's being pulled to my finger and thumb to twist around. Supplies. Two. Former loop. So that's the first stage of the earrings I now need to form distinctive bends. It actually him helps him to holding your ears on. I'm going to use the middle, um, section on my step commando. I don't want to drop on these hearings to be too long, so I'm going to hold the loop just off the Mandrell on and bend the rest of the Why around my fingers, some to form you shape. I'm going to do this one a little bit solo, Uh, because it helps me to do to make sure that they met. Shops are apartment, this one. And if I hold them up against each other, see, this one is actually the bend is a little bit too high. So when I put that back on the Mandrell because this section where the Lupus is a little bit too long, I'm going to put that around a little bit. So used up some of that material. It's about silver in the curve. Andi. No, that's a good match. So I quit back on the Mandrell and then this time, the front section. I know it's the right length, and he's do anything about that. The back section just going to pull round, but my finger to fish off you on. And that's the start of the ear. Wiser. Pull this wound a little bit more every day was betcha. Has she having said that this one? Now they're lying next week, so that does look a little bit Tulis Still. Yes, it is. But it gives me the chance to show you that all is not lost. I can change. It's what we're going to do is use the nine on your appliance that you saw me use on the 1.2 millimeter while earlier in the class to just smooth that out again. And that's back to how we started before. I used to see Mandrell so I can start to bend it again. Definitely too high, Ben. Just a bit more still a little bit too high, that special now. So Hotel Mandrell And now I'm just going to pull the long tail around, and that definitely looks like the best match. Couple of things have to do you to hammer the front section off the earrings to give him a bit of extra strength. So I'm going to use the plan ish ing Hammer to do that, just going to hammer the front section here that's flattened this, but here's makes the Air Web. It's spring here. It means it's going to hold its shape. A lot better do the same to this one quick. Next thing I need to do is flick outs the end of this year wire. I'm going to use the flat nose pliers for that. So amusing. The wits of the flat. No supplies the guys toe. How much silver? Just bend back. Wisdoms twist. Singley applies back quits to put a flick at the end of the Aiwa. Same with this one. Just flick out that end, and then the very last seen managed to issues the needle file to smooth about this rather sharp end at each end to the wire. - Use your fingers as much your some. Yes, I figured as much as your eyes to help you see whether that's nice and smooth. Same with this one. Some hardly most of the ear. Why inside my fingers because of their lives hammed it to strengthen it. It's not impossible to pull it out of shape. I'm just supporting most of it between fingerprints. Some just get it with extra protection a little bit more. Uh, and that's it. So I suppose here wise made. What I see now is put the iwas ons the drops with the AM assists together, so use her off flat those pliers again to lift up that loop slip home the drop. Close it back down again. So what? The first hearing I had exactly the same suspect one. Lift up the loop. Put on the drop, close it back down again. So a nice pair of dangly earrings, quite dainty pair, but with a nice drop of color at the bottom on the texture that catches the light beautifully. 10. Long Stem Earrings - final thoughts: well, that's another pretty pair of earrings to at your collection, with stones on detection, the silver that catch the light beautifully. This is a fairly easy project to adapt These hearings have a local links off just under 4.5 centimeters from the curve at the top of the year. Winds down to the bottom of the stones. You would obviously make some longer or shorter by changing either the ear wise or by changing, like what used to stem. Changing the size and the color of the stone use will also dramatically change the look of the hearings as which adding a rich dark prettiness, the silver as well as I've done with this ice pair of earrings I've used over on X camera johns on the same length of why that we've used in this class. The ear was slightly different because the loop faces it would, so that changes the look of it as well. But it's quite remarkable how that dark patina really does change the look of the whole design. If you don't already know how to add that darker patina to your silver, then haven't account for my color. Your silver close. Do you remember to don't know the list of equipment on. Also, if you need it to step by step tutorial on how to turn the eye lives, it will be great to see some photos of what you make. I'd like to see how you can adapt the project to make it your own. What textures on what stones you use. If you have any questions, police do, ask them in the class. Discussion on it would be great if you could leave review to help students as well. Thank you for watching. I hope to see in some of my classes.