Long Exposure Photography Made Easy | Phil Ebiner | Skillshare

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Long Exposure Photography Made Easy

teacher avatar Phil Ebiner, Video | Photo | Design

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

12 Lessons (44m)
    • 1. Welcome to this Long Exposure Course

    • 2. The Course Project

    • 3. What is Long Exposure Photography?

    • 4. The Gear You Need

    • 5. Camera Settings for Long Exposures

    • 6. How Long Should the Shutter Be?

    • 7. Long Exposure Demonstration 1

    • 8. Long Exposure Demonstration 2

    • 9. Photo Editing Part 1

    • 10. Photo Editing Part 2

    • 11. Thank You

    • 12. Bonus Long Exposure Photography with an iPhone

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About This Class

You're a photographer and you want to learn how to shoot with the long exposure shots. But you don’t know where to start. You don’t know what equipment you need. You don’t know what settings to use. You don’t know what type of shots you should get.

This course teaches you how to shoot long exposure photos with a typical digital camera. You’ll learn the gear, settings, and tips needed to shoot beautiful long exposure photographs. We use a DSLR for most of this course, but you’ll even learn how to shoot long exposure photos with an iPhone.

Check out the first course in this series - Drop Auto: Get Perfect Exposure with your Camera's Manual Settings. It will help you dive right into this course!

Enroll now to start taking some amazing photos!





Meet Your Teacher

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Phil Ebiner

Video | Photo | Design


Can I help you learn a new skill?

Since 2012 have been teaching people like you everything I know. I create courses that teach you how to creatively share your story through photography, video, design, and marketing.

I pride myself on creating high quality courses from real world experience.


I've always tried to live life presently and to the fullest. Some of the things I love to do in my spare time include mountain biking, nerding out on personal finance, traveling to new places, watching sports (huge baseball fan here!), and sharing meals with friends and family. Most days you can find me spending quality time with my lovely wife, twin boys and a baby girl, and dog Ashby.

In 2011, I graduated with my Bachelor of Arts in Film and Tele... See full profile

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1. Welcome to this Long Exposure Course: everyone, Welcome to the long exposure class. My name is Philip Dinner, and I'm a professional video creator, photographer and online instructor. And I'm so excited to be bringing you this class where we break down the basics of long exposure. There's other tutorials and classes out there that teach long exposure, but I really wanted to break it down to the basics so that anyone can go out there and she amazing long exposure photos. Long exposure is a type of photography that really allows us to capture motion of objects in your frame and capture great night photography. You can even see things in your long exposure photos that you can't even see with your eyes . With most modern DSL, ours and cameras, you're able to shoot long exposures. There is some other gear that I recommend you having for long exposures, but for most of us we can just take out our DSLR camera and start getting some really interesting shots right off the bat. And that's what I'm going to be teaching in this class. So the way this class works is I'm going to be covering the basics of what long exposure is the settings and the gear you need to use and get long exposures. And then I'm going to be doing a live demonstration out in the field where I show you how I get my long exposure shots. And then I'm going to be doing a practice editing session where I show you how to edit long exposure photos in light room. And throughout this entire course, we have a fun project which are going to be talking more about in the next video. So thank you so much for enrolling in this class and let's get straight to it. 2. The Course Project: one way that students really learn. The lessons in these courses is to take action into practice. And so, for the practice for this course, I want you to go out and shoot a long exposure photo of your own. There are two different types of long exposure photos that I ask you to shoot and you could pick one or both of them. One is a night shot. Typically, you see the light streaks of a car, maybe a freeway overpass. This is the first type of photo that you can take, and I'm going to be showing you how to take those photos in this class. The second type of photo that you might want to take is of water. Water really does look magical in long exposures. And so if you do have a body of water close to you a river, a lake and ocean, you can try practicing long exposure with a water shot. So once you take one of those photos, you can do either or you can do both. Please post it to the class so that the rest of the students and I can check out your amazing work. Thanks so much for watching and let's dive right into the content 3. What is Long Exposure Photography?: Hey, everyone, let's get down to business in this video. I'm going to be talking about what exactly? Long exposure photography is why we shoot long exposures in the three basic ways to get long. Exposures were going to be diving into the settings and the gear in the next couple of videos, but I'm just gonna be touching on the three ways that you can get long exposures. But first, let's talk about the process. What is actually happening? Well, we learned in earlier photography, and hopefully you kind of understand how a camera works that there is a shudder in your camera. The shutter opens and closes or flips down and flips up, and that allows light into the camera body. So light is coming through the camera lens and then a shutter opens and closes toe. Allow light to expose your camera. Your photo. If you're using a film camera, it's exposing the film in your camera. If you're shooting with a digital camera, you're exposing the digital chip that is in your camera Now. Some cameras are mere lis cameras now, and they don't actually have a physical shutter that opens up and closes to allow light but still doing the same process of allowing light in for a certain amount of time. Typically, we're shooting at faster shutter speeds like 1 2/100 of a 2nd 1/60 of a 2nd 1 to thousands of of a second. And that's because we want to capture an instantaneous moat moment in time. And to do that, we need a very fast shutter. But the thing about shutters is that when you open and close it really fast, it doesn't allow a lot of light in. And when you slow down your shutter speed and you're letting it open for a little bit longer, there's more light coming in, which means your photo will actually be brighter. Now. If you're shooting at night or if you're shooting inside or anywhere that's dimly lit, you're going to have to slow down your shutter speed to allow enough light in to expose properly. Now, long exposure is taking that to the extreme and really opening up your shutter for literally 30 seconds or a minute or five minutes or even 30 minutes to allow light into your camera. Now you would use this in a variety of different settings one of the primary reasons Teoh use long exposures is at night. If you want to capture something in the middle of the desert at night, if you want to capture stars moving. If you want to capture planes moving across the sky or lights streaking across your frame, you can open up your shutter for a certain amount of time. Now, of course, it depends on what you want, and it depends on how fast your subject is moving. For example, stars don't move that fast. So you're gonna have toe expose for maybe 30 minutes to see a star moving around or the earth rotating and seeing the stars move across the sky. But for a car lights streaking across your frame, you might only need to expose for 20 seconds or five seconds. And so during night. That's one reason to expose long because you just need more light so you have to lengthen your shutter speed during the day. The reason gets more creative with a long exposure. We saw some pictures before you can really see the motion of things, so maybe people walking by you can see them as a blur or with water water is something that I love, taking long exposure photos of because it makes it just kind of magical, and it actually stop. It's not as much a crisp image of the water in motion. It's just this fluid looking motion, and it looks like just look so great. And so there are three basic ways, or times you can shoot long exposures. One is at night or in dimly lit situations, so we talk about that. You can basically just do it with your camera, and all you need to do is lengthen your shutters speed and you'll get a long exposure. The other is with your F stop so your F stop, remember, or your aperture is the whole inside of your camera lens. It goes from small to big, and the bigger it is theme or light is entering. So the other thing with F stops is that the bigger it is, the smaller the F stop number, so the bigger the whole like F stop 1.4 or two or 2.8. Those are allowing a lot of light in Teoh. Allow less light in you. Close the hole. You use a higher F stop like an F 11 or an F 16 or F 22 even. And what happens is that because you are allowing less light in through the lens, you have to leave the shutter open even longer to compensate for that. So during dimly lit hours like Magic Hour, which is the hour around sunset and sunrise, where is not that bright outside? You can actually shoot a long exposure just by cranking up the F stops, making that hole smaller and bringing down the shutter speed so that it is open longer. But of course, that has to be during a dimly lit time. It can't be during the day. So what happens when you want to shoot a long exposure during the day? That's the last time or the last way that you can shoot long exposures. And what do you have to do? You have to cut down the light somehow because there's so much light coming in from the sun . You actually use what you call neutral density filters to block the light so you're literally putting a filter across your lens that cuts down the light that allows you to again slow down your shutter speed. If you didn't have those filters in there, the photos would be just blown out too bright. But by cutting down the light manually with a filter, it allows you to open up that shutter speed. So we're gonna be diving into all these different ways in the next couple of lessons, especially in the settings section. But I just want to introduce this entire topic of long exposure to you. And hopefully, by now you have a better grasp of what exactly is going on with your camera during a long exposure. 4. The Gear You Need: everyone in this video, I'm going to be talking about the year you need to shoot long exposure photos. The first thing you need is a camera, and you need a camera that allows you to take slow shutter shots. So typically, most cameras, including DSLR cameras, allow you to shoot really long shutters in a variety of Moses, including aperture, priority mode and manual mode. Sometimes you can even go up to 30 seconds orm or in long exposures with DSLR cameras and some other. Miral is cameras. You have a bulb setting. The bulb setting allows you toe basically do a long exposure, however long you want, because you are manually opening and closing the shutter with the click of a button. And so you'll need a camera that shoots long exposures, so check out your camera. I can't go over every single camera to show you exactly how to use the settings in your camera, so you might have to do a little research on your own just to make sure that you know how to do a long shutter speed. But you should be able to just go to the manual setting and slow down that shutter speed and see how long it can go if you're going down into the 10 20 32nd shutter speeds and that means you can do a long exposure. The second piece of equipment that you need is a tripod. Now, here is a really cheap photo tripod. I'm using a sturdier tripod for the camera that I'm shooting with right now. And so that's the one I will take when I go out and actually shoot. But you need something that won't move. Because, as we can probably guess, when you open up that shudder of your camera and you're doing a long exposure, you don't want your camera to move at all because what will happen The camera, The photo will end up being a little blurry. Things will move and not not the way that you wanted to move it will be. Could be because the camera shake and you don't want that at all. And so you need a tripod that won't move during the long exposure. The next piece of equipment that you might want to purchase is a set of nd filters. Now, this is a very cheap set of Andy filters made by Altra, and you can get them online for 20 bucks or so you have to get them to the right size lens . So I'm using a 77 millimeter, uh, Andy filter right here for my canon 24 to 70 lens. This is one type of filter that screws on. There are other types of filters that actually are a square plate that you can put on a variety of lens sizes. You just need to get the right attachment to your lens. Now, these Andy filters come in a variety of strengths. And so here, in this set, I haven't what they call an nd eight. I have a nd four and then nd to and with these they cut down the light in different ways. And basically, you have to think of nd's as cutting down your light in F stops. And so, if you think about an f stop a full F stop cutting down your light by a certain amount. That's what nd filters air. Doing so with an ND to your cutting down your light by one F stop within and before you're cutting down your light by to F stops and with an nd aid. You were cutting down your light by three F stops, and so you can actually stack these. And so with this set, I can actually cut down light by six F stops. And that will really help me out when I'm out during the day shooting long exposures. So Andy filters eyes something that you will have to get if you are planning to shoot long exposures during the day. That being said for this class, you don't necessarily need to do that. You can play around with long exposures at night and still get some amazing shots before you go out and get a set of filters. Glass filters are the best, but if you only have enough money to purchase a pair of plastic and the filters try it out , it's cheap enough just to try out and see what you can do with it. I'm all about just using the tools that you have. I'm not about Oh, this type of filter is the best. You have to get this brand. I'm not at all like that. I truly believe you are the artists and these are just tools. And so, um yeah, Andy filters. That's the third piece of equipment. The fourth piece of equipment, which actually might be more important than your ND filters, is a remote. Now, this is a shutter release remote that I can plug into my camera, and it allows me to press this button and actually shoot the photo without touching the button on my camera. Why would I not want to touch the button on my camera? We'll just the slight movement of my hand pressing that button Well, actually cause a little bit of motion in my photo, and I don't want that. I wanted to do it with either a wireless or a wired remote. And the other thing with this remote, which was only $7 on Amazon, is that I can actually use the bulb setting, which we talked about to do a longer exposure for however long I need, which is really awesome. So I can just basically press and hold this. You lock it like so and then unlock it when you want to stop your exposure. So this will come in handy when I need a very specific amount of time for my exposure. So those are the four pieces of equipment that I suggest you get or using this class your camera, a tripod, a shutter release remote and a pair of Andy or a set of nd filters. So that's the equipment you need. Let's move on to the settings you will use. 5. Camera Settings for Long Exposures: everyone in this video. I'm talking about your camera settings. So again, this goes for any camera that you're using. We're talking about shutter speed, eso aperture and dependent. Whether you're using a canon and Nikon a Sonia Fuji, any type of camera, you just have to use these settings that I'm about to give you. So let's start with the easiest and move into the harder stuff. The first and the easiest is I s O as you probably know, if you increase your eyes so you are allowing mawr light not necessarily more light, but your digital chip inside your camera is being mawr sensitive to the light. And so the higher your eyes so the brighter your image will be so we want a very low isso, so go to the lowest eyes so that you can go to like I s 0 100 And that's what you want to use during long exposures with your f stop. We also know that if you open up your f stop your aperture, the more light is let in. So we wanna let in less light. So go to between an F stop of 11 and 22 11 16 22. Some people don't like going all the way to the max of the 22 so you might want to try out 16. But if you want, If you really need to cut down that light, especially during the day or at sunset, and you're doing long exposures, you might have to use that 22 to really cut down that light. But with F stop, just keep it between 11 and 22. The only reason you wouldn't do that is if the depth of field that you want is a critical part of your photo, as we probably know by now. If you took the previous lessons on exposure, the F top also affects the depth of field with a lower F stop number. So, like 2.445 point six. With those low numbers, you get a Shaoul or shallower depth of field. With the higher F stop, more things are in focus, and that really cinematic look of the shallow depth of field is really sought after by a lot of photographers. And so if you need that during your long exposures, you can do a lower F stop number but you're going to have to compensate either with an nd filter or with your shutter speed to make sure that it doesn't end up too bright because you're letting more light in with that lower F stop. Let's talk about shutter speed. Now there are three different modes that you might want to use on your camera, depending on how long your shudder will be. So you have your aperture priority mode, your manual mode and your bulb mode. Aperture priority mode basically sets your shutter speed depending on whatever f stop you want. And so, if you're going to it an F 22 it's going to automatically set your shutter speed for you. And depending on how much light there is outside, or if you have nd filters, you'll be able to get a long shutter speed. But aperture priority mode usually only goes up to 32nd exposures, So if your exposure is going to be 30 seconds or less, I suggest using the aperture priority mode. If your exposure is going to be 30 seconds arm or I would suggest using the manual mode. Now, the manual mode will allow you to take longer shutters without doing it manually. That's kind of confusing, but without using the shutter release button toe, hold down and literally manually open up your shutter with your finger so you can set shutter speeds for like a minute or two minutes or however long, depending on your camera model. And so, for over 30 seconds, use manual note. The last mode is bul ba mode, and that's the one that allows you to click down your shutter release button for however long you want, so it could be 30 minutes. It could be 10 minutes, five minutes, and that's the mode that you'll need to use if you are. If you are needing to do a very custom amount of time, which we're going to talk about in the next video, the other setting that you need to understand or the other thing you need to do with your camera is to set focus. Now, if you are at night, or if you are using and D filters, you might not be able to see through your viewfinder because of those those nd filters, because of the lack of light and your camera, can't auto focus because it won't be able to see either. And so what you have to do is first set set Focus. Whether you're in manual mode or auto focus set focus before you actually put on your nd filters. And then after you have set focus if you're a shit. If you're setting focus with auto focus, set your focus, turn it to manual focus and then put on your your nd filters. Now you do it in that order because if you are on auto focus and then you put your filters on and you leave it on auto focus than your cameras, focus is going to change because it's trying to adjust, is trying to see and then you're photo is gonna be out of focus. So set your focus using auto focus and then turn it to manual focus, or just set it with manual focus. Then add your Andy filters and leave your focus. Even if you can't see it. Ah, your camera should be in focus. The last tidbit for your camera for taking long exposures that you need to dio is to cover the eyepiece. So a piece that you're looking through when you're taking your photos, you need to cover that because that is actually allowing light into your camera during a long exposure, and you'll see light leaks if you leave that open during your long exposure, especially if you're exposures are 23 minutes long or more, and so please cover that with a tape or with the little eyepiece cover that sometimes comes on the camera strap of of your camera. It's a lower rubber piece that just pops in there, but please cover it because you don't want to be taking a shot and then realize after your five minute exposure that there's a light leak that you don't like because you've left that eyepiece open. So those air basically all the settings that we need to talk about. Let's just run through them one more time, first with ice, so you wanna get the lowest isso possible. Around 100 is great for aperture. You wanna shoot between 11 and 22 for exposures under 30 seconds. Use aperture priority mode for exposures over 30 seconds. Use the manual mode or bold mode. If it's a custom amount of time with your focus, you want to set focus first with auto, then switch over to manual focus before you cover your lens with Andy filters. And then, lastly, you want to close the eyepiece with a piece of tape or anything that covers it so that light doesn't spill. I hope you enjoy this lesson, and the next one we're going to be talking about how you know how long your shutter should be. 6. How Long Should the Shutter Be?: everyone in this video I'm going to be talking about. How long should your shutter be open for your long exposures? It really depends on what type of equipment you're using. If you're using nd filters, what the light is like outside and what are you shooting? Do you want it to be a really long exposure, or do you only need it to be short to capture something moving by? And so there's a lot of factors that go into it, And so there's three ways that you can tell how long your shutter should be. The first is just trial and error, and this is what I've done for most of my life. I just go set up my camera. I try a 12th shudder. I tried 22nd shutter tried 32nd shutter and I see which one is working. Which one is well exposed, and that's one way to do it. But that could be a little cumbersome, especially if you're doing really long exposures at night or or during the day with Andy filters. So there's another way to do it and thats with charts now charts. I don't like charts because there's a lot of numbers. There's a lot of figures that you basically have to look and see what f stop you're using, what an D filters you're using, and you kind of have to figure it out. And that's just too difficult. It's not necessarily that hard. It's just there's a better way, and that's what I'm gonna talk about right now. And that's with an APP. There is literally an app for everything, and there is one that will tell you how long your shutter should be. It's called nd filter time timer. Or, if you just look up nd filter timer or exposure timer or exposure calculator nd calculator , you'll find it either on an iPhone or android. Now the process were using. This is very specific, so I want you to pay attention to how you actually use this app and with your camera. First, you have to be an aperture priority mode, and so you set up your shot. You set your s o. You set your aperture so you said it to F 22 or whatever you want, and then you lightly press the shutter release button on your camera, and that will tell you what shudder it will be taking at and so you can practice is on your camera. If you lightly press your shutter button in aperture priority mode, it will say the shutter will be 1/20 of a second or two seconds. Now you take that number, you plug it into this so it will ask you shudder and you say it said 1/2 of a second. Then what you do is you add your nd filters. And so, with your nd filters, you tell the AP how maney nd filters you put on. So say I used one of mine and I did the three stop Andy filter so that nd eight, which is at three F stops and then it will tell me the shutter should be six seconds. And so then I go, I switch over to manual mode or bul ba mode and I do a six second exposure. Now you might need to use bull mode to get specifically six seconds. And the great thing about this app is that it has a little timer so that you can press the timer and at the same time you press the shutter release. But in with your remote, and then this buzzes and you let go. And so you can do very specific times for your shutter. So does that make sense? Everyone get the ND timer. So download it. You have to use aperture priority mode and with aperture priority mode, your camera will tell you how long the shutter will be to get perfect exposure. And if you take a photo at that point, it will get perfect exposure. But you want it won't be a long exposure because typically, if you're shooting at debt during the day, it will be like 1/20 of a second or 1/60 of a second. And so that's why you put on your nd filters and then you calculate it and do the longer shutter in manual mode. So that is my favorite way of doing of setting your long exposure. Remember, you can always do trial and error. You can download the chart, and I'm going toe. Actually, add one to the course that you can download and use, or you can use something like the nd filter timer at thanks so much for watching. And in the next lesson, we're going to be diving in, and I'm going to be going live demonstration of shooting long exposures 7. Long Exposure Demonstration 1: everyone. Welcome to the live demonstration for this long exposure class. I'm out here today at beautiful Laguna Lake. It's actually a man made lake in Fullerton, California near my house. And we're going to test out what it looks like to do some long exposures at during the day with some water. So we got some nice water flowing here. You could probably hear it. Ah, and its man made So they have actually the water flowing. It's powered and you can see some ripples. And so that will actually create a nice effect for our long exposures. It's similar to the effect you might get at a river or in the ocean. So we have our camera and the first thing we want to do is make sure that it's on aperture priority mode, which, on a cannon is the little Avie symbol. The next thing we want to do is make sure that we have our eyes so at the lowest possible which right now I have 100 my s stop is at 22. So if I go ahead and look through here and I arranged my shot, I get the right composition. Once I do that, I want to get the focus, so I'm going to change to auto focus very quickly. I'm going to get focus with autofocus just by lightly pressing the shutter release button. Then I'm going to change to manual mode for the focus. So now it's locked at that focus now with aperture priority mode. When I and I use my remote now because I don't want to touch this while I'm actually doing my long exposures. If I halfway hold the button down either on the camera or on the shutter release, I can see that it's telling me that the the shutter will be 1/15 of a second. So if I take that picture is not that long, that's not a long exposure, and you can see all the details in that water, and I don't really like that. And so what I want to do now is add my nd filters now what I've done already and what you might want to do when you are actually out shooting. And if you if you have a set of nd filters, try putting one on maybe the lightest one liken nd to which drops down your F stop by one stop and then see what it says. But since it's pretty light out right now, I know that it's going to need more than just that one and D filter. So I stacked all three of mine, so this is going to cut down the light six stops. So let me put this on. You have to be careful not to affect the focus or touch the focus or the zoom when you are putting on your ND filters, especially the ones that screw on the end of your lens cap so I can look through here again and I can tell it's a lot darker, but the F the shutter speed now says it's going to be one 0.6 seconds. So if I take that now, so that was a 1.6 2nd shutter. You can really tell the difference in the quality and the what the water looks like in this first photo. It's very detailed in this second photo. It's nice and blurry, nice and silky, and that's what a long exposure is. So I'm pretty happy with this photo. I'm going to go around and get some more photos but that is pretty much all you have to do . The other thing that you might have to do if you are shooting in a darker situation. If you can't see through the lens, it's still so bright out that my camera was able to see through the six stops that I added , Ah, or decrease the light with these nd filters. The other option is to use your nd timer filter app. And so what I would have done was I would have seen that it was 1/15 2nd for the camera shutter speed. Before I put on the nd seconds, I would plug in 1/15 of a second, and now the exposure says it should be two seconds, so this app will tell me what the camera said already. 8. Long Exposure Demonstration 2: Hey, everyone, welcome to a live demonstration of how to use envy filters. I apologize for the sound, but I really wanted to give this shot with this fountain in the background. So basically, what we're going to do here again is set up our camera. We have aperture priority mode set up. We have set our F stopped in 22. We have our remote plugged in. We have our eyes so set at 100 and if we hold down the shutter or halfway hold down the shutter button, it's telling us that we want a 1/4 of a second shot. So let's just take that picture and it's not that special. It's kind of ugly, actually. And so what we're going to do is now add are stacked nd filters. So this is an ND to foreign eight. It's so bright out here that I'm not going toe actually have to use the app to tell us how long are shutter will be. There's still so much light. If it was a little bit darker out, we might have to, but still, when I press the shutter halfway down, it's able to see, and it's a four second shutter, and I just want to make sure that we're in focus. So I will change the auto focus halfway, hold down the shutter button to set the focus, turn it to manual focus, and then I'm going to hit the shutter. So this is a four second shutter and the photo looks really awesome. It's completely different than the other photo. And if I wasn't able to see through this nd filter during the day like this, I would have to first set the focus before I put the nd filters on. Remember that? And then I would have to use my app that would tell me how long the shutter should be. I want to reframe a little bit. Make sure that we have focus again. Changing too auto getting bogus, turning back to manual using our remote. I will count to 10 again, and so we'll see what this looks like. But this is a basic live demonstration of long shutter. Its a lot of experimentation. It's a lot of just using the tools that we have. While I was 13 seconds and it still looks pretty cool, and I think that photo might be our winner. Okay, so I'm gonna go ahead and take that photo into the editing room, and I'll see you there. 9. Photo Editing Part 1: everyone. Welcome to the editing lesson for this long exposure course. Today I'm going to be walking through how I go about editing my long exposure shots in Adobe Light Room. Now this is a very basic light room lesson, and those of you who haven't played with light room should be able to catch up pretty quickly. But if this is going too fast, I do have other light room courses. Just head over to video school online dot com, and you could learn more about how to use light room as a beginner. But basically I've brought in my photos that I took over the past couple of days, and I found some that I really like that I want to edit. And I'm going to be showing you how toe end up with this picture looking like this from this. So a little bit subtle differences. But I think they do a lot to make it a better photo. So here I have my night photo, and one thing that I initially notice is that there's just so much light and that's probably because my exposure was a bit longer than it should have been, but actually the light on the right side. The tail lights of the cars looked pretty, well, pretty good. So the first thing I do when I dive into my develop tab is to adjust the white balance. And in this 1st 1 we have my temperature going from cool blue to warmers of a drag to the right, it becomes warmer. I want to just drive it to the left a little bit just to decrease the yellow that I'm seeing and then down below, I'm going to play with exposure first. I'm just going to drop down the highlights, and you can see how this automatically just starts to make the lines a little bit more pronounced. And it's not as it doesn't glow as Muchas, which is what I want with the shadows. I'm actually going to boost the shadows a little bit, and then the whites, what I'm going to do if you hold down your option button or all button on your keyboard. If you're on a PC option. If you're on it on Ah, Mac and drag, you can see where the over exposed whites are. You could basically make thes pure whites if you drag over to the right and insane with the blacks. I can go to the left and whatever appears. Black is a pure black so I already have some pure blacks in here. But I'm going to decrease a little bit more and then I'm going to drop my overall exposure just a bit and then I'm going to actually play around with the highlights to see what it will do just to make my how it's more pronounce so I can turn this off and on and you can see what it's starting to do already. I may be going to drop the temperature just a bit, so that's looking pretty good. I think I'll increase the clarity just a tad and let's see what happens when I decrease or increase the saturation. So increasing the saturation really brings out the Reds over here, which is something that I like, so I'm going to increase the saturation just a bit. So I'm starting to like this photo a bit more. I'm going to drop the exposure just a bit. Really. Pronouncing those streaks is really contrast, E which is what I want and like, and then I'm going to crop so hitting this button right here brings up my aspect tool, and I'm going to just make it a little whiter. And I have a preset for 16 by nine, which is your standard video screen or mobile device screen. Which is why I like using that. And there was going to crop out a bit of the top black that I don't like. Hit done. And there you have it. This photo looks pretty good. Let's go from the original to the edited. I could continue toe tweak some of these things a little bit dropping down. The highlights actually might be better. Something like that. Yes. So that is pretty good. I'm happy with that. And now I'm going to move on to my next photo. 10. Photo Editing Part 2: Okay, so this is the next butter that I shot during the day. And this is the final product that I'm looking at. Here is the original photo, so you can already tell that it was really dark. Actually, when I shot it and because I shot raw, I am able to get it to look really amazing, I think. And the colors look amazing. So let's just dive through this. So the first thing I'm going to do just with this photo is to increase the exposure quite a bit just so I can see what I'm working with better. And then I'm going to take the color temperature and drag it up to the right just to make it a little bit warmer. Sometimes when you're shooting during the day long exposures, your photos tend to be a bit blue just because that's what the camera is seeing out in the daylight of the sun. And so I wanted to be a bit more warm. I'm then going to play with my exposure. My highlights shadows, whites and blacks. My highlights. I'm going to drop my shadows, I'm going to increase, so that just increases the detail that you can see with all within the highlights in the shadows and then with the whites again, I'm going to hold, option and drag to the right until I can start to see something that is a pure white something like that. And since this is water and this is a reflection, that is a great thing, to be pure white with the blacks and going to hold option shift and dragged to the left, making this a pure black and then I'm going to play with the clarity just increased the clarity with which actually sharpens things a bit. It's not sharpening the blurry, the nice blur of our water that much. It's more sharpening the details of this rock, which I like, and then I'm going to increase the vibrance of this whole thing. So instead of saturation, I'm increasing the vibrance, so that's looking good. And then the next I am going to do is going to crop it. So again, I'm going to do this 16 by nine. It's to really get in there. This is the focal point of our photo and then go down all the way to my vignette. A vignette is a cool thing to do with your with your long exposures. So I'm just going to decrease the amount to create a dark vignette. I'm going to decrease the midpoint to bring in more than I'm going to feather it a ton and then play with the mountain again. I don't want too much. I don't want it to be too dramatic. So that is looking really good. Now. One thing that I can do is I can come in here and I can see a little bit of noise and something that might happen with your long exposures is noise. And so we're going to go up. We're going to add a little bit of luminess noise reduction. And just by doing that, we get a little bit of this noise disappearing and you can play with the contrast and the detail to affect the noise in different ways. And I was really, actually important if you are shooting darker photos during the night because you might get a lot of noise. But since we're shooting at such a low, I so you won't get that much noise with your images as they come out. So we went from this to this and we went from this to this. And now this one is not as dramatic of a difference. But look how amazing this looks. And I made one of these black and white just because black and white photos, uh, long exposures look really good with black and white, especially with water. But in the end, I like the colors of this one that's so beautiful with the reflection and the water really , really nice. So that's how you do a quick edit in light room. Let me just export it for you. So I'm going to go to file Export. I'm going to choose where I want to set it. What? The name is that I want to say Save it as, and then my image format. JPEG is great for sharing online. I'm do resize a lot of my images when I'm posting them online because I don't need them to be so huge. So for this one, maybe I'm gonna post on my blog's all do like something like 600. But typically I'll want to post it like above 2000 pixels just to get the best, the best looking one. So I just take this for blogged. I'll say export, and now it's going to appear in my files to share with the world. So thank you so much for watching this lesson and we'll see you in the next video. 11. Thank You: everyone. Thank you so much for taking this little chorus on long exposures. I hope you enjoyed it a lot. And I hope you took action in practice. And you actually went out on a shot. Either the night photography, long exposure or the water long exposure. And then I hope you posted to the class of that. We can all see it now. One thing you can do to help me out is to review this course whether you liked it or not. I hope you liked it, but I would really appreciate if you like. If you left a review for the course. If there was something about this course that was confusing or that you think I should add or take out, let me know. Send me a message. I'm always looking to improve my courses, and I can do so with your feedback. So just again, thank you so much from the bottom of my heart. Check out my other courses. I have a ton on photography, video creation, building an online business. And you can check them all out at video school, online dot com or just by going to my profile page. Thanks again. And have a great day 12. Bonus Long Exposure Photography with an iPhone: Hey, everyone, I just wanted toe give you a quick tip. If you are interested in shooting slow shutter long exposure shots with your iPhone, there is a great app called slow shutter cam. You can just search for it in the APP store, and they give you a ton of amazing options were slowing down your shutter speed, increasing the blur and especially if you're doing light trails or low light, long shutter long exposures. They have options for that, so check it out. It's the slow shutter cam app. It's pretty intuitive. Basically, you just click the option for taking this photo with whatever share speed you want. You could increase or degrees the blur strength. And if you want, if you're specifically shooting light trails, you can select that option as well. Thanks so much for watching, and we'll see in the next video