Lingerie Sewing Basics - Easy Pattern Alterations and Hacks | Valeria Garala | Skillshare

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Lingerie Sewing Basics - Easy Pattern Alterations and Hacks

teacher avatar Valeria Garala, Textile designer & pattern maker

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

11 Lessons (1h 12m)
    • 1. Class Intro

    • 2. Project and Tools

    • 3. Sloper and Pattern Alterations

    • 4. Cut Out Bralette Part 1

    • 5. Cut Out Bralette Part 2

    • 6. String Bikini Undies

    • 7. Scallop Edge Undies

    • 8. High Rise Scallop Edge Bralette

    • 9. Leotard Back and Reinforcement

    • 10. Class Project

    • 11. ThankYou

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About This Class

Welcome to Lingerie Sewing  Basics - Easy Pattern Alterations & Hacks

After completing my previous class Lingerie Sewing Basics - A Total Beginner’s Walkthorough I got many ideas for different bralettes and undies that could be done with the basic knowledge I shared + quick and complication-free pattern alterations, so I thought the best follow up class would be to share easy pattern alterations with you so you could have even more different styles with the same base pattern!

In this class we will learn how to change certain aspects of our garment, directly onto paper from our base sewing pattern, plus different techniques of construction to expand our lingerie expertise. 

I will show you the basic things you must pay attention to in order to successfully alter any pattern, how to translate alterations from sketch to paper pattern, and more construction techniques to have a wider library of how-to’s in mind, all of which will be useful for other patterns and garments.

We will kickstart this class from the Fidelio Sewing Pattern (same from Lingerie Sewing  Basics - A Total Beginner’s Walkthorough class) and do the following alterations:

  • Cut outs to add trims or contrasting fabric in bralettes
  • Scalloped back in undies
  • From briefs to string bikini  
  • Open Gusset Finish
  • Scalloped cleavage on bralette 
  • Leotard back strap attachment
  • Support reinforcement for bralette

If you wish to continue learning about sewing techniques and pattern drafting skills for lingerie, this class is for you!


Class Outline

  • Class Intro showing you what we'll be learning in class
  • Project & Tools in depth explanation of class project + the tools used for it
  • Sloper & Pattern Alterations what is a sloper
  • Lesson: Cut Outs Part 1 for lingerie, how to alter the pattern
  • Lesson: Cut Outs Part 2 for lingerie, how to assemble the garment
  • Lesson: String Bikini Undies removing side seams and gusset seam at the front piece + adding adjustable straps
  • Lesson: Scallop Edge Undies scallop lace undies at the back and fold over elastic or picot finish
  • Lesson: High rise cleavage how to alter the v-neck cleavage + adding scallop lace edge to the bralette
  • Lesson: Leotard Back + Plush Reinforcement back band alteration + added support
  • Class Project Intro Overview of the main class project
  •  Final Thoughts / Thank You

Meet Your Teacher

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Valeria Garala

Textile designer & pattern maker


Hi there! I am Valeria

Textile and Surface Pattern designer based in Mexico City. I am passionate about all things DIY, reason why I sew my own clothing & lingerie, design prints to decorate my home and even make my own mylk, (DIY-ing even in the kitchen!)

My favorite thing about creating is defenitely the share the process & knowledge part, I can happily say that my most interesting finds and skills have been product of the sewing community sharing their knowledge and experience,  this is exactly why I want to share here with you the pure joy of creating and sewing your own wardrobe, specially your own lingerie.

For the latest works-in-progress & to see what i'm up to you can find me at my Instagram



 See full profile

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1. Class Intro: Hello, I am Valeria. In this course, we will learn how to do simple but meaningful alterations to bralettes and undies to achieve different styles from the same base Sewing pattern. , knowing how to effectively alter a pattern opens and almost infinite world of possibilities for garment making. From one base pattern, we can create multiple styles with different feels, not just by modifying the shape, but also by combining different fabrics, trims and silhouettes. For the second installment of Lingerie Sewing Basics we will learn multiple, easy and fuss-free alterations for the Fidelio Bralette and Undies pattern, which is the same pattern from my previous class, Sewing Lingerie A Total Beginner’s Walkthrough So we can just use it as a base. If you haven't seen that one yet, I suggest you do so first So you understand all the concepts covered today. I'm going to guide you through every aspect and detail you should consider for your alterations and share with you more tips and tricks for lingerie sewing. For the class project, I want you to create a completely new set of bralette and undies, by mixing any of the pattern alterations we will learn to elevate your sewing game. By the end of the class, you'll walk away with a new lingerie set and newly altered set of pattern pieces and knowledge on how to alter any other lingerie sewing patterns, to have infinite options of styles, because you'll know the basis of pattern modifications and what you'll need to keep in mind for a successful style change. I'm going to show you a bunch of different alterations you'll see me working and solving issues that always pop up when altering patterns. And we'll see how the real garments turn out from my sketchbook starting point. This class is much less of a sew along and much more pattern paper hacks. Since the sewing principles are the same as those from my previous class, the lingerue beginners walk-through. With that being said, my name is Valeria. I am a textile designer, sewist, and maker And I teach here on Skillshare, where I have a few more sewing classes. This is my Lingerue Sewing Pattern Alterations Class I hope you'll join me. So let's get started! 2. Project and Tools: Thanks so much for joining me. For the class project. I want you to create a brand new lingerie set of bralette and undies You can do exactly as I do, or you can mix and match the different alterations I'll be showing so you can create something entirely your own. I'll be showing you my process of sketching the idea. And then how do I translate that into an already existing sewing pattern so we can create a brand new bralette. And undies set, after that, you will be able to replicate that knowledge for your own pattern alterations. By the end of this class, you'll walk away not only with a brand new and fun lingerie set but also new pattern pieces for this style and the knowledge on how to do many types of modifications So you can translate onto paper some of your sketch ideas starting from the basic Fidelio pattern as a guide to both the bralette and undies I suggest you watch the previous Lingerie Sewing A Total Beginner Walkthrough Class if you haven't already. So you know the basis from which we'll be working on this class. I can't wait to see what you create by mixing all these alterations. So let's begin! Down at the resources You'll find the print at home PDF sewing patterns for both bralette and undies, these sewing patterns are the same than those from my other class of Lingerie Sewing Basics - A Total Beginner’s Walkthrough So if you already have those, you are all set, remember to print without fitting to page, You can make sure it is true to size by printing the page with the two inches square and measuring with a ruler in real life. Additional to the print PDF sewing pattern we'll be using the following tools: My tip for you is review upfront what fabrics and trims you have already available in your stash or those you wish to use before starting, you main project, So you'll know what alterations work for what you already have. You don't want to alter all your pattern pieces for picot elastic for example. And realize halfway through that all you have is fold-over elastic. Alright! Now that we know what will be sewing, plus what tools and materials we will need in order to achieve our class project. Let's move on to the next lesson to talk about slopers and pattern alterations. 3. Sloper and Pattern Alterations: For this section, I want to have a little chat about alterations so we further Understand what it is we'll be doing for the next several lessons. Before alterations, I want to explain one previous step to that which is blocks or slopers I've seen both names are used interchangeably. So what is a block or a sloper? A sloper is the foundation draft that works as our base or template to obtain different patterns by transforming it. This way, from the very same bodice sloper which is how we call the block for the upper portion of the body We can develop a fitted button-up or a flowy tunic style from the same block or sloper, by doing different styles transformation and without drafting a completely new pattern from scratch each time. The very basic blocks are bodice, sleeve, skirt and trousers. All blocks, except for the sleeve block are drafted separately, in front and back because they have different drafting requirements. So you'll have two blocks for bodice, 2 for skirts and 2 for trousers. Think of it as this: The drafting bodice block for the back requires less volume than the front because of the chest. These blocks or slopers have no added seam allowance yet, and are made with a set of measurements depending on each brand. For instance, the building blocks from a Swedish indie sewing pattern brand I love, are drafted for a person who is, I believe 178 centimeters tall on average. Completely different to say, pattern development in Mexico where I am at, which has a smaller average height of 160 centimeters. Same goes with slopers for teenage garments, or for plus size. So each brand establishes their preferred measurement chart for their target audience. So they can develop slopers for each size they will offer. Knowing these, you can understand why we fit differently across different brands, even if we try the same size. Now that we know what a sloper is, and why do we need a base draft to transform it into different styles we can talk about pattern alterations. For this class we’ll use the pattern provided as a sloper to do simple modifications to create different styles By altering certain things, you'll find that you can use the same pattern to have more variety and fun in your sewing. Not just by mixing up fabrics and trims, but also by changing the actual silhouette. This skill will enable you to transform patterns into new styles without having to draft on your own your own the blocks or slopers. To do any sort of alterations, My advice, always do a sample of the original and unaltered pattern first. Try it on. See the things you wanted to change. How is he original design fitting you, exactly where is the underarm curve landing on your body, for example, and all those details. So you'll make better alterations because you already know how the UNaltered version turns out. Now, if you've seen some of my other classes, you know by now that I am a firm advocate of retracing my sewing patterns. This is because if I wish to do a different size from my own or for a loved one or any other pattern alterations to create a different style, I can easily retrace to do such things. Otherwise, if I cut directly onto the assembled pattern I already printed in, I want to do an alteration all my efforts of printing and assembling will have to be repeated. So always trace! In this class that tip will prove itself very, very useful, so we can alter away as many times as we aent without constantly printing. Now that we fully understand why alterations work from a base pattern to create multiple styles Let's move to the next lesson for our first style alteration, which is cut outs. 4. Cut Out Bralette Part 1: In this lesson, we will learn about our first alteration, which is cut outs. This is an alteration that can be applied to both bralette or undies I started with this one because it is fairly simple, but the impact to the final garment is outstanding. We will only work with the bralette pattern this time Both the same principles apply for the undies. So what is a cut out? a hole cut in something for decoration or to allow the insertion of something else With this in mind, it can either be left empty, or combine different fabrics t o add contrast or add trims to make different shapes visible. Starting with the original undies and bralette to understand cut outs, we can see that this paper pattern pieces, which are the original unaltered ones, correspond to these finished garment. Since we've already sewn the original, we know exactly how this pattern pieces turn out. how high the side seam rises or where the cup apex lands With that information, we can move on to altering the pattern pieces Anyway we like! the first key point to keep in mind for altering with cutouts, is seam allowances. We can do as many cuts as we like, but we will need to consciously add seam allowances to each piece so we can then assemble the garment. To explain this point, let's refer back to my sketch so we clearly see how cutouts will be traced. I did a bunch of sketches for a different cutout ideas all of them imagined with fabrics I already have available in my stash. First I wanted these leopard print with black mesh, but showing black mesh in video is not as easy to follow. So I scrapped that idea and started thinking of more light tones. So I bounced around with a few ideas until I came up with a more diagonal cut, which I think will be more interesting with the already existing cleavage. I then chose to Sew with a mix of fabrics I've used before, which turned out lovely. A lilac mesh with pale pink velvet. And this is a final sketch for that idea. And black trims to bring a bit of an accent. For the undies, I decided on a mesh string bikini, which we'll review in the next lesson as another alteration. So you have more modifications range. And then I translated that idea into a flat technical sketch to facilitate my job in altering the physical paper pattern on my table. As you can see, I am extending the cutout to the back wings to have a more eye-catching silhouette. The original cup would end right here So I am extending the side seam. Below, We already have the matching string bikini, but we'll review that one in the next lesson. All right, if this is the original sewing pattern with cups and back wings, which gave us this result. And we want to achieve this other style we sketched, we need to separate and create an individual pattern piece for each different fabric or unit we wish to have on our cutout bralette. To do that, I like to work in phases. So I have all the steps separately. This way if time goes by and I want to refer back to one style, I can easily know how I worked and achieve certain results. So step 1, have my original paper pattern pieces laying on my table. Then retrace them to have the exact same set of pieces. So I can then translate the cutouts from the sketch onto the original silhouette. In the retraced pattern pieces. I prefer the trace mine with tissue paper, but it's not easy to see on the video. So I am doing so with regular bond paper, but you can work with the one you feel most comfortable with. The trick here is to retrace the pieces without seam allowances. Remembering to add notches. You can either do it free handedly or with the aid of a ruler. In this part of the process, do not worry about leaving enough space between pattern pieces for adding seam allowances. We will do that later on, on another set of pattern pieces. Once we have the retraced pieces without seam allowances let's trace the new lines that will create the cutouts. Quick reminder that this corner is the center front at the cleavage and this upper cup is the cup apex. For my cutouts i do not wish to have the seam right in the middle where these notches land, I want it a bit higher. So I am just tracing a straight line, eyeballing it and making it land a bit parallel to the cleavage line. For the second line in the side seam cup, I will need to retrace my back wing to create that elongated piece to remove the original vertical side seam. I then will need to temporarily match side seems to have a continuous line. With this setup ready, I need to focus on the second key point of altering cutouts, which is matching the lines by measuring the distance from the apex to the newly traced line. I can replicate that measurement in the other side seam cup, also counting from the cup apex. Now take a look at how I pivot the tape to accurately measure the curve. This way, the newly traced line will start from the same point at both cups. Just confirm that you have the same distance from notch to the new cutout line in both cups. And we do, we have another inch and three-quarters on both. I can now trace the elongated line from the side seam cup towards the back wings. And I mark my lines with a heavier line so you can easily follow. It's worth noting that this line length or how high you want it It's up to you. If you feel more confident, adding more space in these Union at the under arm curve, for example, you can do so too. The next step is confirming again that the cut-out lines will match. One method is by measuring with tape like we did before. But I like to do this second confirming because it's more similar to the real motion the curved lines we'll do when we sew them right sides together. Now, having both of your pieces of the cup separately, place them right sides together, matching their lower start of the cup. And by pivoting the papers, make sure the lines are overlapping and matching. I like to hold both papers with my right hand and pivot that double layer with my left hand to have subtle pivoting and following the lines. As you can see, I am holding and pivoting. You will see that the notches match and then the newly traced lines also match. And lastly, the cup apex matches. This method will ensure you won't get uneven cut out lines, but a seemingly continuous line. Once you confirm the distances are equal on both cups, we are ready to keep them moving onto adding seam allowances. To add seam allowances we will retrace one more time so we keep track of how we've got to this point. As I talked about earlier, in order to assemble a bralette with cutouts, each section has to be a pattern piece of its own with its corresponding seam allowances. Just like these three pieces make these unaltered result, these other four pieces will create a new altered bralette with different fabrics. So we need to consciously add their seam allowances. depending on the finishes we will choose. For instance, I will do this version with fold over elastic. And if you remember from our previous class, fold-over elastic need a different, seam allowance than Picot elastic for example. So for these new pattern pieces, where do we need to have seam allowances? First in this line to put together the two pieces that make up this center front cup, plus the seam allowance on the curve to sew CF CUP with the other SS cup and t he bottom seam allowance to sew the band elastic. For the cleavage line, this straight line, no seam allowance will be added because it will be finished with fold over elastic Same seam allowance is not needed for the under arm and back wing edge because fold-over elastic will be used. And the line which joins upper and lower sizes seemed cup Will get the seam allowance treatment. All right. In order to have the seam allowance we will retrace again these time, leaving enough space between pieces to add three-eighths of an inch seam allowance. Remember to add notches and to add seam allowances according to the finishes you want and how the pieces are joined by others. add its corresponding info like direction of greatest stretch, which piece is it and which size. In this case, I will name this low side seam cup. to differentiate each piece that make up the full side seam cup. A great tip I can give you is to try to waste paper as little as you can. For instance, for the upper side seam cup, I will add a tiny scrap of paper I have saved to complete this portion of the piece. So I am able to use all these remaining piece of paper. Even if you end up with little Frankenstein's, you'll be saving lots of paper scraps, which is always great. And repeating with the remaining two pieces of the center front cup, I'll be naming them the upper and lower center front cup respectively. Then we are ready to cut our 4 pattern pieces, which now all have their corresponding seam allowances and information. We can now see the process from the original three pieces. Then how I planned my cuts, and then the final pieces with the seam allowances ready to cut onto the fabrics. Now, these four pieces work for the outside view. We also need the pieces for the lining going inside. I am thinking of doing it with the original pieces. So I have a comfy lining with no extra seams or cuts. I wanted to show you the third key point of cut-out, which is adding notches. These will make the assembly of our garment much easier. Now that we have multiple pattern pieces to match, we know that these two notches match together. So we can confirm that side seam cup and the center front cup are placed correctly. Well, we need the exact same thing to match The upper and lower part of each cup, starting with the center front cup, I am eyeballing the middle of the lower cup up to add a notch. I then place the upper cup right sides together on top of it. And with the same walking line skill we acquired before. Let's match the lines and copy the notch onto the remaining upper cup. This way Now both pieces of this center front cup have notches that will help us in matching them to assemble. Otherwise, the edge of the pattern piece after adding the seam allowance won't match, making it hard to understand how pieces come together. Because on fabric, we can'to see exactly where the seam allowance ends and where the main piece begins. Unlike in paper where we obviously can see both Repeat for the remaining side seam cup. Now all pieces have notches to match their neighboring piece. Let's got cut our fabric to assemble the bralette. Here you can see the key points of cutting your fabric. Just a reminder of what we learned on the previous class of beginner lingerie walkthrough. I'm going to pause this lesson right here, so we can do another new lesson where we are going to finish. And sew our bralette 5. Cut Out Bralette Part 2: All right. Let's pick right where we left and start cutting our fabric for our cut out bralette One thing worth notingthat I didn’t place the pattern on fold for this pieces Although the instruction said so that was because I have the perfect scrap of fabric for this piece. And I much rather edit the design to produce less textile waste. The only thing I have to do for this to work out is to add three-eighths of an inch seam allowance. to this center, center back edge. So I can sew both pieces together, instead of counting with the cut on fold for this continuous back piece. I share this with you because a big part of sewing our own things, it's doing as we please an editing things to better suit our desires. So knowing that by just adding the seam allowance, you can reduce waste or place your pieces in a funky scrap of fabric and it will still work out, will surely give you more freedom and space to grow Your sewing skills A great tip is to lay the pieces where they go as you cut. This way, you won't have to wonder which line matches which piece. Because visually this setup is how the bralette will be sewn. Ones all pieces are cut and laid on the table as they will be sewn. Let's start assembling first by bringing together the upper and lower units on each cup, right sides together and matching the notches. We need to fully assemble each side of the cup, meaning the assembled center front cup independently from the side seam cup before we sew them together to create the full cup. Remember to assemble your pieces by matching notches first and pinning, then pin on both corners and then fill in the middle with all the needed edges already pin Let's sew these units together, we will sew at three-eighths of an inch, which is the seam allowance added Now, a tricky decision here that we have to make is which kind of stitch will we use, you know, by now that I choose to Sew all my vertical seams with straight stitch because that creates more support and they don't particularly need to stretch. And that the horizontal seams are the ones I sew with zig zag stitch to provide them with stretch so the garment fits. So the center front cup can be sewn with a straight stitch because although it seems a bit diagonally, it still tends to be more vertical than horizontal. But for the site seemed cup, I think it's best to sew them together with zig-zag. This is because the line resembles a horizontal line much more. And because since I am elongating this seam towards the back wings, I want to create more give So the cup fits nicely Instead of tight Learn to choose and feel how is your pattern guiding you to choose your stitches, where is structure or stretchiness needed? And know that you can have different types of stitches per area. Don't feel pressure in using the same stitch throughout. - Once we have them Sewn, the center front with straight stitch and the SSCup with zig zag, We can match them together. Match notches first, then match the cup apex, and then the lower corner. It is important to match the point where the two different fabrics meet on each cup. So you get a seamlessly continuous line. Sew with straight stitch at your machine, with a 1/4 of an inch seam allowance, meaning closer to the raw edge of the fabric. The same will be done with the mesh lining so we can then sew them together at their corresponding three-eighths of an inch seam allowance for enclosed seam finishings. Repeat with the remaining cup. So you have your fabric pieces altogether like this, with the main exterior fabric and lining enclosed by the middle seam. You can notice that the lining still has the original vertical side seam. You can just go ahead and stitch together the two beige linings from the back wing and the cups. But in my case, I will also have to stitch together the two back wings that we're supposed to be cut on fold, but to reduce my fabric waste, I cut them separately. So I will be sewing those with three-eighths of an inch with a straight stitch. Remember to do all these seams with straight stitch to have structured seams. These vertical areas have no need for a stretch. We end up with the inner view in mesh and power mesh with no visible seam allowances since they are all enclosed. And the outer view with also hidden enclosed seams. At this point is where I realized that because I used the original pattern pieces for the inner lining, I have this extra space of seam allowance from the unaltered pieces, Because I used picot elastic instead of fold over elastic in the unaltered version. So I have to trim down this excess seam allowance So all raw edges of back and under arm match. So I can then apply my fold-over elastic evenly. We are now ready for the fold-over elastic in back, underarm and cleavage. This is also your quick reminder of key points to keep in mind to sew your fold over elastic - while at the sewing machine, I will also attach the underband elastic to the bralette. Remember that in the pattern there is a chart with the measurements to cut off elastic for each size. The raw edges are sewn with straight stitch at half an inch and then top stitch open. And then you can sew it into the garment with zigzag stitch. - For the shoulder straps I also wanted to change it up by modifying the back view. For this, I have my front shoulder straps measuring 20 centimeters long. And for the back, I have 4 elastic, 30 centimeter long, 2 for each shoulder strap - at the cup apex, instead of sewing the shoulder strap directly onto the fabric like we've done before in the previous class, This time I want to have a ring. This is why we normally leave an extra inch or so of elastic at the apex when applying fold-over elastic or any other finish elastic for that matter, To attach the ring, I have a super good tip for you, which is lay the excess elastic over the sewn fold over elastic at the back so you don't get a visible stitch right in the middle of the cup apex from the outside view. Instead, you get a discrete straight stitch on one side. Repeat this step in both cups. Then assembled your shoulder straps the fold of the elastic is facing towards the wrong side, so it is not visible from the outside view. Remember that all the seams for the shoulder strap will be sewn with straight stitch. Repeat with the other shoulder strap and make sure they match in length. Assemble the remaining four back straps with their corresponding sliders on one end. A good tip for you to know how to insert the slider is the following: The right side of the strap needs two lines of the slider and the wrong side of the strap gets only one line of the slider. To secure them we will sew with straight stitch by matching wrong sides of the strap together. After that, we will be ready to finish the shoulder straps by attaching them to the back. I am placing them about half an inch on either side of the pin, which marks the shoulder strap position at the back wing This creates a more strappy feel at the back. And certainly adds more character than the regular straight shoulder strap we've done before. Repeat on the other side to finish your first bralette modification. Once your last shoulder strap is sewn, you'll end up with a garment similar to this bralette. You can play around with the direction and quantity of the cut-outs, the shoulder strap style, Or you can have different types of band elastic, either in color or width, or add trims to each seam union to create more contrast. In a close-up, see the details of shoulder strap attachment, the inside finishes, and the elongated side seam. From afar, we can compare this new version we did with its original one and see how refreshed the silhouette looks and how much creativity we can infuse into our garments by just making cuts in our pattern. Let's move on to the next lesson to learn our next pattern alteration, which is transforming our undies from regular to a string bikini style. 6. String Bikini Undies: All right, now moving to the strap undies modification. In this lesson, we will learn how to modify the undies pattern to create a front and back piece with less coverage to add an adjustable side strap PLUS how to modify the front piece to get rid of his frontal seam and have a seamless front in case you use a print or a pretty lace that ou don’t want to cut right in the middle. So first, looking through my sketches, I wanted to do a simple mesh string undies to match our existing bralette, As you can see, the sketch has less coverage on both front and back. Because mesh is sheer, I don't want to do a visible seam here to enclose the gusset. I prefer having a seamless front. In some cases enclosed seams work wonders Like for a period panty where you want all layers perfectly enclosed. But some other times fabric design like a lacey pattern, let's say, will require you to skip the visible, gusset seam at the front to keep the front pieces of your underwear continued. What we'll learn in this lesson with this undies is to remove the side seam on both front and back. So we add adjustable strings And to remove the gusset seam that sits right in the middle to enclose all layers. So our sheer mesh looks seamless. Let's start. So, if these 3 pattern pieces create these finished undies, Then we have to again retrace the original pieces to begin working on our pattern modifications. Have your retraced pieces ready to edit, Remember this means without seam allowances, I'll be starting with the back pattern piece. In this example, I am going to use the original undies as a guide to figuring out how much narrower I want the new pattern alteration. I want it to be two inches wide. So I'll mark just one inch from the center back. This is because the paper pattern is just half of the final garment. To trace the new back, you can either use a French curve ruler or do it free handedly, I like doing so free handedly first So I get a nicer curve. I feel that from my hand motion it tends to be more organic. And then with the French curve, I trace a better curve. As you can see, I changed my mind and I want the back to be a bit wider for my comfort and less thong like. But the same logic applies if you're making a thin thong or a version like mine. I'll add arrows to remember to cut this edge on fold in order to edit the coverage on the front pattern piece like we just did with the back, We first need to start the other modification. Removing the middle gusset seam to have one continuous front piece that joins with the back. For these alteration, we need to momentarily join the gussett and front piece by the seam Since we have just one hlaf of the front But the full gusset, we will fold it right down the middle. So both pieces are now half of their final form and we know exactly where to join them. We will do so by overlapping the seam lines. This means without taking into account the seam allowances and securing both pieces with tape. Take a look at how the curved line continues like nicely at the leg opening. This indicates us that the pieces are joined correctly. This results in the new continuous front piece without a middle gusset seam that we will use as a base to retrace and create our new pattern piece with less coverage. With this alteration, the inner gusset remains open like a pocket. I am sure you have seen that in ready to wear undies. And it works as well as an enclosed one. A key point to altering the coverage of any type of undies is having matching pieces so we are able to sew them together. And what do I mean by that? If I were to edit the back, to transform it into a thong and just leave the front as it is The back and gusset seams with the front union won't match at all. So when altering a pattern, all pieces that will be sewn together must match. In this case, I also need to make the front and gusset piece narrower by one inch to match the already altered back. I also trace my new front piece to remove the side seam. And I copy where is my gusset laying, sitting so I know where it will land even if I have a continuous front piece. The result is a back with less coverage, a continuous front and an open pocket gusset lining. These three pieces need to be retrace again, so we can add seam allowances to assemble our string udnies. Add their corresponding information and try to fit pieces onto the paper to reduce the paper waste. I am particularly adding a notch at the bottom back. So when I have my fabric cut I can tell which is which since front and back are quite similar in shape and size. I'll only add seam allowances at the bottom union of all pieces because the leg opening and hip edge will be finished with fold over elastic to match the previous bralette. And we already know that folder elastic needs no additional seam allowance. In the case of the gusset opening, you can leave it as it is if you are finishing with overlock or leaving it raw remember that jersey won't fray, or you could add a little seam allowance to finish it with a little hem which is what I'm going to do So you can learn that option. We are ready to cut into our fabric and we just need one piece of each one mesh front, one mesh back, and one cotton gusset lining. Here are mine all ready to start assembling. We start similar to the gusset burrito, front and back pieces with the wrong sides facing up. Only this time, we just need to flip the cotton lining towards the back. So when we join all three pieces, right sides together, the seam allowance remains hidden between all layers. I'll be sewing as always with straight stitch and three-eighths of an inch. To get something like this. To finish the gusset opening, I make a tiny fold of three-eighths of an inch towards the wrong side of the gusset lining and stitch with straight stitch creating a tiny hem. And with the gusset secured to the front piece with a pin, I am ready to attach fold over elastic to both leg openings. We are doing leg openings first and then the hip edge. at the hip fold-over elastic We need to leave about an inch of additional elastic on all sides. So we are then able to attach the rings from which will also attach the side straps. So keep that extra elastic in mind. These are the leg openings done and this the hip fold-over elastic with additional length on all sides. The final step to complete our garment is the string side seam length So we end up with undies the same circumference as the original ones. For that, we need to measure from the new end of the pattern piece to the original side seam on each one and add them up. So in my case, that is four centimeters plus 9.5 centimeters, which equals 13.5 centimeters or 5 1/4 inches. As a rule of thumb, to that measurement, I need to add 4 cm, 2 centimeters for each side I need to fold to stitch the rings and sliders Plus, at least half of the final measurement to create the adjustable strap. In this case, that would be six centimeters. So that becomes how long I need to cut my elastic. If I cut them directly as 13.5 centimeters long, I would be stealing length from the original circumference. We need room to add the rings and sliders to make it adjustable. Another example for this to really sink in is, if your measurement between front and back pieces is, let's say 21 centimeters, you need to cut your straps about 35 centimeters long. We assemble the straps, as we already know, rings on each side, folding the additional fold-over elastic towards the wrong side and stitch together. Remembering to back tack to really secure those rings. Then add the sliders to one side of the straps Stitch with back tack and loop the remaining free end of the strap through the back ring. Thread the free end through its corresponding slider and finish by securing the end with the front ring. Throughout all the rings and sliders unions Please remember to stitch with back tack. This is crucial to getting sturdy and durable seams in these areas where tension and pull is present at all times while wearing the undies. Here we have our end result, a beautiful modified undergarment with continuous front piece in mesh, less coverage overall, and adjustable straps as sides. Once you have your fully sewn string beginning with adjustable side straps and a seamless front, We are ready for our next challenge. Join me in the next lesson to learn about scalloped edges on both bralette and undies. 7. Scallop Edge Undies: In this section, I will show you how to modify the back side of undies from our original finishing with picot or fold-over elastic to having scalloped lace edges. First off, let's discuss scallop edges For all previous samples, we've been finishing edges either with picot elastic or fold over elastic. But sometimes you'll have a lace so pretty that there's no way you want to cover it with elastic. So this skill comes in very handy, especially for those galloon laces that we've talked about before in the previous class of lingerie basics. Reviewing my sketch for this alteration, you can see I drew the scalloped edge on both items. So this is what we'll be creating in real life with our sewing skills. I have, once again on my table the original finished undies and the original three pattern pieces to create them. The first step I like to take is confirming that my pattern pieces will fit inside my galloon's lacs width. Because if they don't, then I'll have to add additional alterations like cutouts to make it fit. As you can notice, the piece barely fits and the lace is a bit tinier than needed for my pattern size. One of the main things that I don't want to change. Is the final circumference of my hip, because then the undies wouldn't fit properly. Therefore, what I am thinking of changing to fit the piece into this lace is the gussett and side seam width. Take a close look on how if I move it downwards just a bit I keep the length of my hip edge but I have to give up a little bit of the side seam and gusset seam allowance And, this way I can still keep the natural scalloped edge of the galloon lace to sit at the back leg opening. From the bottom edge of the back bottom piece I will remove three-eighths of an inch and from the side seam half an inch to make it fit. But what if I don't like to have narrower side seams, especially at the hip? I may be alone in this one, but I rather have a taller side seam for more comfort, So, what do you do? I will move the same side seam width upwards that same half inch that I intended to remove. This way, I can fit my piece onto my galloon's width without giving up my original length. - Of course, this would create a steeper curve at the back leg opening. But since we are using this scalloped edge as the new leg opening for the back the difference will be minimal. These will be clearer at the next step after retracing my pieces. I have my retraced pattern pieces ready. And now I'll begin removing three-eighths of an inch from the bottom edge of the back piece opposite to the center back. to the side seam I'll remove half an inch from the corner next to the curve and that same half inch to the opposite corner. Now we can free handedly draw our new pattern lines, making the 2 new points at the leg opening, connect and refining with a French ruler to get nicer curves. And again, connecting the center back corner of the hi to the new point at the side seam. Because the center back is a bit higher than the side seam to better fit the volume of the back side. By adding half an inch at the side seam we are actually only adding 1 eighth of an inch from the center's back height. So not much difference will be created at the top hip from the backside. And always confirm that the height from both your side seams from the new pink line and the original black one are the same. I am also drawing the straight line connecting the gusset to the side seam, to indicate the use of our scalloped edges. I'll trace yet again to add seam allowances. The particular thing about scallop edge undies is that the center back can't be cut on fold, you see? In galloon lace you can't fit your piece to use the scallop edge while also having the option to cut on fold, it simply won't work. So you'll cut two separate back pieces and add another seam allowance to the center back to join both back pieces together, instead of cutting onto the fold, I'll add three-eighths of an inch on gussett and side seam. and create this quick Frankenstein for the center back seam allowance, also of three-eighths of an inch. Now, I want you to see the original back piece against the new scallop one. It has more coverage even if we reduced the gusset's width. Alright, now we can move on to the cutting bit Firstly, place your back piece on top of your galloon lace Notice how they scallops have mountains and valleys. The key point to fitting your regular straight line into the irregular scallop without giving up coverage is to align the edge of the pattern piece to the lowest valley of the scallops. This way, you will ensure that all your pattern pieces will be inside the galloon lace. This especially applies to all seam allowances. Make sure their corners start at one of the mountains to ensure you will have enough fabric to hang on from when sewing at the machine - and cut all around For the front piece, treat them just as you did for the original undies The front is separate from the gusset It is cut on fold, and you'll just need one single lace gusset because the gusset lining will be made out of cotton. I have all my lace pieces set so we are ready to start assembling our undies The first step with these kind of undies is to always sewthe back pieces together first, this way, you'll have a single back piece like we have always done, because it is a vertical seam We just need straight stitch at three-eighths of an inch with right sides together. Remember the back tack beginning and end. We will finish the seam with a flat felled topstitch . If you don't remember from our previous class Here's a quick refresher Trim one seam allowance and lay the other one on top of it. Finger press and topstitch close to the raw edge to secure them. Do so with straight stitch and finally trim down the remaining seam allowance. Then we're going to assemble our already famous gusset burrito. All pieces with right sides facing up, Flip them towards the lace gusset and top it with the cotton gusset lining and secure with pins, stitch together with a straight stitch at three-eighths of an inch and back tack beginning and end. Contrary to other instances where the fold over elastic was applied after stitching the side seams together, this time we will Sew the fold-over elastic while the undies are, let's say, open, because the scallop edge won't get any fold over elastic. We will only attach it to the gussett and front leg opening through this whole curve without the scallop edge. We will attach the fold-over elastic as always, the first passing from the wrong side, and then the second and final passing from the right side - at the very beginning, leave a little bit of extra fold over elastic So your machine has something to hang on from at the start. And, so we can have a neat finish at the end by trimming and securing with an extra row of zig zag stitches. I like to doo this additional passing of zigzag stitch perpendicular to the one used to attach the fold-over elastic for two reasons: First, it secures the end neatly. This area sometimes gets torn because of the strain it gets. And secondly, it gives a more even finish visually than just by trimming and calling it a day, like on the other side, you can see right here. So I highly recommend you take this extra step and tip. Lastly, we'll close the side seeams right sides together. And sew again with straight stitch and three-eighths of an inch seam allowance, finishing the seams with flat felled top stitch again and trimming the remaining excess seam allowance. Finish the top hip edge with matching fold-over elastic. You'll end up with a garment similar to this one, with a scallop lace edge at the backside and regular finishes on the front side, in this case, fold-over elastic. All right, now that we've mastered the art of the scallop edge from our undies Let's move to the next lesson. We will create a high-rise cleavage. Also using the scallops of galloon lace And finishing the back with a new fun alteration. See you there. 8. High Rise Scallop Edge Bralette: In this lesson, we're going to complete our scallop edge set. We will need to create our bralette to match the already made undies And for this piece, I want to not only at the scallop edge detail, but also I want to show you how to add more support to your bralette while also giving it a fresh new look. So I thought of modifying the cleavage rise and the back strap attachment to have an entirely new result. Let's jump right in. Again, taking a look at both the original sewn bralette and my sketch, you can see that I want to move the v-neck cleavage a bit higher and to change the back to a leotard back strap attachment. These two modifications, will give a bit more support to your bralette, the high rise cleavage supports more tissue And the leotard back not only gives a stronger attachment to the shoulder straps, but also to have this back, also with a higher side seam, which will add to the overall support of the garment. Additionally, I will show you how to add strategic elastic to increase the support of your final garments. For these alterations, I will start by retracing my original center front piece into a new paper sheet without the seam allowances and adding the notches at the curve. We'll retrace the rest of the cup and the backup band afterwards. Now, to understand how I am going to raise the cleavage upwards, I want you to take a look at the original piece. If the line below that joins the cup and under band together is perpendicular to the cleavage line How can it possibly be diagonal on the sewn product? And, how can I raise it for a higher cleavage if it's already a straight vertical line? This is where your 3D imagination mind must come into play, because the curved side on each one of the cups goes in a different direction. Once they are sewn together, they create volume, forcing the seemingly straight line into a diagonal line, shaping the V neck bralette. If it were not for the volume created, the cleavage line would be perpendicular to the under band and no breast tissue would fit into the cup. For me to be able to modify the v-neck point. I like to have the cleavage line closer to a diagonal line, closer to what it looks like when sewn. I am going to pivot The center front cup diagonally by using the notches on both cups as my anchor, anchor points, overlapping the notches without taking into account the seam allowances. You want to use your notches because these is where both cups match their curves right at the middle, at their highest point. Also called the bust apex, which creates the volume needed to fit the body. And my cleavage line is automatically in a more diagonal direction. But still, how can I trace a new vertical line at the center front From where to raise a new cleavage? we are going to take the bust apex, which lands right at the middle of both curves as a guide for a new horizontal line that goes around the body from which we can then draw a perpendicular line at a square angle for our new center front cleavage rise. Because if I try to increase it in the current cleavage line, I am not increasing anything actually, because I'm still moving on this diagonal. I want to increase and actually fill in with more fabric this right here to raise a cleavage height. So I need to draw a straight line across my center front cup notch, also called the bust apex, in a square angle from the straightest part of the curve and elongate it beyond the diagonal line. This way I can now draw a straight line also in a square angle to the bust apex lines starting from this point upwards. To create my new and higher rise cleavage, which I'm going to make two inches higher. To get the final pattern piece, we need to retrace once again, connecting all the dots and adding seam allowances. depending on your finishings. since we are giving this bralette a scallop edge cleavage we will only add three-eighths of an inch seam allowance to the remaining sides and add its information. Next, let's modify the other half of the cup, the side seam cup. We've talked before that in order to have a leotard back we need to make this side seam raise a bit higher. So I will retrace this cup and the back band without the seam allowances to a new sheet of paper and raise this side seam by half an inch and softly fade into the the new underarm curve here in pink into the existing one. Same for the back band. You know the drill, retrace without seam allowances and match in length all pieces that will be sewn together. In this case, the side seam increases half an inch at the back band too. For the leotard back, the U-shape always starts right at the back strap attachment notch. So I am going to freehandedly draw my U-shaped back, coming from the new side seam height to the center back and refine with my French curve. A very important thing to keep in mind is you always, always want your U-shape back to be in a straight angle to the center back to have a straight backline instead of a peak. If you wish to have a narrower leotard shape, you can move this strap attachment closer to the center back and create, create a steeper curve. depending on how open you want your U-shaped back to be. And now to retrace the pattern pieces onto new paper to add seam allowances. I am adding three-eighths of an inch on all sides because it will be finished with picot elastic. Except at the center back, which will be cut on fold, and the U-shaped curve that will be finished with strap or fold-over elastic. To cut my pieces I'll follow the usual method. One single cut of the back on fold, two side seam cups and the center front cup placed on the scalloped edge, aligning the pattern edge to the lowest valley to ensure we're not stealing any coverage or fabric to the pattern piece. And remember to mark your notches with a tiny cut. For the inner mesh lining, you can see that fabric edge length exactly where the pattern edge is. Contrary to the lace piece, where the scallop makes the overall piece bigger. This is thanks to the placement of the pattern piece at the lowest valley of the scallop. Remember my tip to lay your fabric pieces as they will be sewn to keep track of which seams are stitched together. To start assembling our bralette. We match all lining center, front and side, same cups with right sides together and pin. we will sew at three-eighths of an inch with straight stitch and do the exact same to both sets of lace cups. To end up with something like this. We then assemble each lace cup, wrong sides together to its matching lining and place them on the table with the laces facing up. The right lace cup flips on top of the left lace cup with right sides together. And the right cup lining flips underneath them all with the right sides together to the left cup lining And pin together, aligning the bottom edge of all 4. You'll notice that on both cups the cup lining edge is shorter than the scalloped edge. That is correct. This way with only one passing of straight stitch at three-eighths of an inch. At the center front, we get an enclosed seam to join all pieces together. Make sure you stitch all the way through the scalloped edge, not just the cup lining. I'm going to stop this lesson right here. So we're able to have different bits from the scallop edge cleavage and another for the back wing alteration. So I'll see you in the next lesson for the back wing 9. Leotard Back and Reinforcement: Let's pick up right where we left. We just finished our its scalloped edge cleavage and we're going to start the modifications for our leotard back wing. To attach the back band place the lace back band on top of the cups with the right sides of the lace together. And then place all layers on top of the back band power net lining. This will enclose the four layers of fabric at the side seams by sewing again with straight stitch at 3/8 of an inch. Turn to the right side. And I appreciate all your enclosed seams. We then have to attach the picot elastic at under arm and back bank on both sides, leaving alone the U-shape back. And completing the first pass, only like I have here right now. A quick reminder that there are different picot elastic widths. The wider elastic work best for larger sizes because they bring, they bring more support. But in case you can't find picot elastic wider than the classical three-eighths of an inch I'm going to show you Up next, a cool hack to have support by adding plush elastic before the second pass of the picot elastic at the underarm and back band, we will attach blush elastic to reinforce this area. For the reinforcement of plush elastic at underarm and back band. If we see it from the inside, we have one passing of picot elastic ready. So before the second pass, we have been trimming the excess seam allowance. And then doing the second pass while having the right side of the garment facing up in the machine. But this time for the plush elastic reinforcement, we will do the second passing while having the inside of the garment facing up and introducing the plush elastic, fthe uzzy side up inside of the picot elastic. Catching both picot and plush elastic with the zigzag stitch. For this, I will switch my needles from a 7/11 to a 9/14 size. The end result is something like this. Of course I am using contrasting thread for teaching purposes, but I would suggest matching your thread to your elastic and fabric. This is the general idea, a wider elastic to give more support at the underarm and back band. For the cleavage blush elastic, we'll place it with the fuzzy side facing up, meaning touching our skin. You will attach with a zigzag stitch without pulling right at the raw edge of the lining. So the elastic isn't visible from the right side. You will start from the cup apex. And when reaching the center front, back tack, cut the excess, and start the new elastic by overlapping them in the middle of the center front. At the end, you'll trim both points to have a neat peak. Making sure to have enough extra length at both cup apex This is how it looks with the upper elastics done. We just need to finish the U-shaped back with plush, strap or fold over elastic, whichever you prefer, will be attached from the right outside view as contrast. The key point here is to leave about two inches of extra elastic at both ends To add the rings and shoulder straps. I will do mine with fold-over elastic. You will sew it with zigzag stitch. The shoulder straps will be added as we've done before. The ring is attached to the U-shape at the back. Then the shoulder strap with its slider is looped through the ring. And attach to the cup apex at the front with straight stitch and back tack. The final step for our bralette, is adding the under bust elastic, just like we've done for the past samples. Sew your raw ends together with straight stitch and with the four cardinal points method Match the center back, center front and side seams. Then fill in the middle and stretch a little bit while sewing with zigzag stitch. Your final garment will look something like this. The main characteristics are similar to the previous versions, a wide underband elastic, Vertical cup seams, a main fabric and cup lining, only this time, you have much more support thanks to the added elastic, the leotard back and a higher cleavage. A perfect match to the scalloped edge undies. Now that you have perfected the scallop edge garments and you have seen how to work with it for undies and bralettes Let's move to the next lesson where we will discuss the class project for you to have fun making and mixing and matching all the reviewed techniques. 10. Class Project: For the class project, I want you to do a brand new lingerie set by combining any of the shared modifications. You could have a string bikini with cut-outs and a matching bralette with a leotard back or a fun shoulder strap and scallop edge undies, with strings and a matching bralette with high rise at the cleavage, there are as many combinations as you can mix. And if you match fabrics or trims, you'll add even more interest to your garment. I can't wait to see what you come up with. And if you want to have feedback from myself or other students, don't forget to add your class project in the section below so we can see it. I love receiving questions and photos, so don't hesitate to share them over there. I am also adding a Pinterest board filled with inspiration with garments that can be achieved with what we've learned today. So you can also check that out to fuel your imagination. 11. ThankYou: Thanks so much for joining me. I hope this class was very helpful and insightful. And that you feel ready to kick-start your pattern altering journey, and that you finish this class with lots of takeaways. If you finish your brand new lingerie set please share that in their project section here on Skillshare because I love to see what you've been working on. Thanks for watching and I'll see you around.