Learning Adobe Lightroom in 60 Minutes (2018) | Jakob Schell | Skillshare

Learning Adobe Lightroom in 60 Minutes (2018)

Jakob Schell

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17 Lessons (60m)
    • 1. 0. Intro

      1:32
    • 2. 1. Import and Rating

      1:56
    • 3. 2. Basics

      8:30
    • 4. 3. Hue, Saturation and Luminosity

      5:46
    • 5. 4. Split Toning

      2:32
    • 6. 5. Lens Correction

      1:55
    • 7. 6. Transforn and Straighten the Horizon

      2:11
    • 8. 7. Effects

      1:19
    • 9. 8. Spot Removal

      7:46
    • 10. 9. Remove Big Objects

      3:57
    • 11. 10. Graduated Filter

      2:46
    • 12. 11. Radial Filter

      2:41
    • 13. 12 . Adjustment Brush

      2:49
    • 14. 13. Color and Contrast Adjustments with Nik Collection

      5:06
    • 15. 15. Sharpening and Export

      3:45
    • 16. 14. Tone Removal

      3:41
    • 17. 16. Outro

      1:26

About This Class

In this  Lightroom video course I want to teach you everything you have know to become a Lightroom Pro

Four years ago when I started using Lightroom I really struggled. I did not know which slider to use or how to export my files. I had to invest a lot of time and money to learn that.

That´s why I will explain everything you have to know within 60 minutes. 

You will learn

  • How to import pictures and how to rate them

  • How to create a color look

  • Adjust the basic sliders like "Exposure" and "Saturation"

  • How to do partial changes by using the "Radial Filter"

  • How to create effects

  • How to work with the Tone Curve

  • How to sharpen 

  • How to remove any noise

  • and much more...

Just enroll, you won't regret it! 

I look forward to work with you!

Transcripts

1. 0. Intro: hi and welcome to learning Adobe Light Room in 60 minutes. I'm Jacob. I'm a landscape for talker of her from Germany, and I've been working with a large room since four years. In the next 60 minutes, we will cover everything you have to know about adobe Light room so that you will be an expert. Afterwards, we will talk about the importing process will take an in depth look into developing a pictures with all the modules that are available in light room. We will talk about selective adjustments, are checked removal and different other techniques that unnecessary towheaded your pictures like a pro. All these techniques I teach where we applied to this picture and in the end, we will end up with this one. I think that's quite a difference. And good about it is that it's very easy if you know the techniques that you have to use the techniques that teach a not only a trustable toe landscape photos, but also toe poetry, its products or any other photo because you will understand how light rum works. This will give you the opportunity to apply all the techniques to different photos to end up with a great result off every photo you shot. With that being said, I think we're ready to start. So lean back. Maybe grab a pencil and a paper to make some notes. And after the 60 minutes you will be a light from pro, I promise. 2. 1. Import and Rating: before we can start with the editing process, we have to import the files we want to edit until Lytro. To do that, you have to click the import button on the left hand, lower corner on the left. Inside you select the source where fires a safe that you want to edit. Then you have to take the ones you want to import in light room. And after you've done that through all the pictures, you want to read it. Click on the import button. I already did this and imported my pictures. I want to read it. So maybe you know this after shooting like I did right here. I got several exposures from the same beach from the same sunset. So they all look nearly to say I have to find out what the best exposures are that I want to edit. And you can raid the pictures with the keys with the numbers on your keyboard. For example, if I pressed one, then I get a one star rating. If I press three, I get the three star rating obvious. If it's zero, the star marks will be removed. By doing that, I can do a collection of photos I want to edit and then see them afterwards. Because if this picture gets a one star rating and this one gets a once orating, I can sort all the pictures that God, what a one star rating. And to do that, I have to click theatric boot and then click on the one star, then all one star pictures of filtered. If you click a nun, this will be reset. If we agreed on one exposure, then we click on it and then click D on your keyboard or simply that developed happen on the top. 3. 2. Basics: after we imported our pictures and got the selection off the ones who want to edit we will be starting with the editing process at first a small shortcut because we will be starting with the basic module and then get into the colors and so on. And normally you will make changes at the end again in the Basic Law and the colors. So if you start with the basics and then you get into the colors and then toe the split, toning and then into the lens correction and then into the transformer actual and then into the effects, all modules opened up and we have to scroll all the way up. So the basic natural. If you click the right mouse tap and then click solar mode, only oneness opened up. If we click on color, basic is closed and colors open, so that's a way that you can access quicker the different modules. So we will start with the basics and, at first, the white balance adjustment. At first we have to set the temperature of the photo. If we pull it to the left, will get more blue Karas and a colder feeling to it If we push it to the right side, it gets more warm with more yellow colors. If you double click on the arrow, it will be reset to default. So we have here a picture on the beach with a nice sunset, so we want a bit more warm colors. So we want to express the typical beach feeling. So we will be going more into the yellow colors if you pull the cassette to the right hand side over the numbers so you can see the cursor switches into a hand, and then, by clicking on it and holding the mouse step and sliding to your left or your right, you can make more accurate adjustments. Then you will sing the normal slider. So we were going up it into a bomb colors, maybe like this, and doing afterwards the tent. This is nearly the same, but it applies to the green and magenta colors. Double click on it. We re setted, and we want to have a bit more off the purple magenta colors because of the sunset. So again, go to the right inside and pull it a bit more to the right side. But we have to be careful that there is no unnatural feeling to it. So I think yeah, minus 10 was better and he was staying with us. All the changes we did in light room we can access later on again and able to change it. So if it don't like it later on, you can change it at any time. Okay, Next fst exposure. If our picture was too dark, we can brighten it up. Or if it was too bright, we can Darknet If you go to the history, cram and click on the small arrows on the left and to the right light from gives you an overview if they're too dark or too bright Parts in this picture where no details left For example, here on the branches there some blue areas loud from colors all the dark pots and blue so that we can see that there to dock in this photo. If you click on the left arrow again, they will be removed. The same applies to the bright areas They're normally colored in red by We don't have any burnt out areas so that they're no red areas. You consume into a picture simply by clicking on it, and by clicking on it again, you was be able to some out. If you assumed in into a picture and click on the left mouse and hold it, then you can move it. If you press the space bar, just click. One time it was soon out again. So exposure. I think that's nothing to change here and contrast. We won't be touching right now. This will be applied later on, but we have to talk about the highlights. Highlights are the bright areas in the pictures. For example, the sky and you want a nice sky with the colors, and they're more vivid if they're a bit darker. So we pulled the highlight slider pit down. This expresses the collis a bit more. We do the opposite with the shadows, so we brighten them up a little bit. And as you can see right here on the branch, for example, this is before and then this is after there no changes made to sky only to the dark areas if we're touching the shadows, so bringing the highlights stone and open up the shadows in portraiture rings that's often a nicer look. If you open up the shadows and bring down the highlights, said. You have a more centered look on the photo and to the areas that are already bride and darken up. They're not so dark pictures so that you have a focus. But in landscape photography, we want everything seen everything in focus. So we bring down the highlights and open up the shadows. But the technique that the bright areas have to be brought a little bit down, the Attackers have to brighten up a little bit. That's something we change in the highlights and in the shadows. Same applies to the wides. If I pull the white so the right hand side, they become brighter and the blacks, If I pulled to the left, they become darker so that there's a basic contrast adjustment already in the picture. I will be pulling the whites a little bit to the right and the blacks a little bit down, and we will only be doing some subtle changes not too extreme, but by doing subtle changes and will add up and in the end you have a totally different result. Next up is clarity. Clarity is a micro contrast that expresses a bit more than details. That's a nice look in landscape photos, especially if you have areas with texture like the branches right here. But you have to be careful because it causes a lot of noise. So clarity bring up, but not more than 50. The A's is a little bit of mix off contrast and saturation, so this brings a nice look. But also, you have to be careful with that. So we would be really careful. Yeah, and maybe plus 16. Yeah, that looks metrics. Good. Maybe you already noticed that here we got more blue areas right here because it brings contrast to the picture. After you saw that, maybe you can open up the shadows a little bit more so that you get in more even exposure in the basic much your left is the saturation and vie prints. Saturation saturates the saturated colors and vibrant set rates than not so much saturated colors. In this picture, saturation often gets an unnatural look. I can show you this that doesn't look like really natural sunset, but vibrant stuff. So we will be always using vibrance. Bring it up only a little bit saturation. A trust mend in the color tab next. So we're done with the basics by pressing why on your key? But you can see it before and after, and I think it already looks quite good. And for some, this might be already enough, but we want to edit our pictures like a pro, so we would be talking about all the other different modules in the next videos. 4. 3. Hue, Saturation and Luminosity: after we're done with the basics. Next time it's the tone curve. We won't touch it yet. That's something we will do in the end. By now, we will head into the HS l or color module, and we will be starting with the U At first. There's a little target right here, and it works like this. You click on it and then you were able to click somewhere in the photo hold. The most happened. Track it up or down. By doing this, you can trust the color right where you are clicking. I will reset it again and show you a spot where can show it better. For example, in the sand, I click on it. Pull it up. Never get smoke green. I pulled it down. It gets more mature and an orange, but you have to be careful. You're not only adjusting the sand, you're trusting the color. So I had just orange and yellow if I click on the sand, but by doing this, the changes are also made into the sky, and that's something we don't want. So I recommend to shut it off and by doing it manually with a sliders to each color. We were starting with the Reds. What I'm doing always at first sight. Pull it right to the left and completely to the right and a bit more faster so I can see where the changes are. For example, for the reds There in the sky here, not much. Only a little red. And I will be pulling it a bit more to the pink side so that we get more reddish colors in the sky. Our interest well through the extreme way. Andi, have to be careful, because off the scent, But pull it a bit more to with your into the oranges. Yeah, I think the sand looks quite natural, but this guy gets a bit more colorful. Next up is yellow. I had to it the same way. Only a little bit. Yeah, something like minus 10. That's fine. Next up a screen. I don't think there many green parts in here bit mourn a bit in the warden and the branches . Yeah, we don't see them, so I leave them at zero. Quite often the water color changes a little bit. Every could've been more green, but not too much here. Then blue, blue is in the sky and in the water as well. Yeah. Hey, you can see what can happen. Ah, this looks really unnatural. So again, be careful. Make it a bit more blue. A bit more purple. Yeah. Problems the next. I think there's something a little bit in the sky. Yeah, make it a little bit more purple, but not much. And Matsch? Ender. That's the last slider. Yeah, I don't see much here, so we will be leaving it at zero. Okay, He was done. Next step the saturation. And that's why we didn't touch the situation in the beginning in the basics. Because here in the colors were able to set rate only the colors. We want to do it. So I will be pulling up the reds a little bit in the sky. Orange also. Yes. Well, it's yellow. Yeah, Green. We hadn't in the picture. Likewise, And something we have to saturated. Maybe a bit more blue. So we get more color contrast between blue and Horan's purple. Maybe also a little bit. Not too much. Yeah, maybe a bit more orange. It's maybe a little bit too much. Yes, something like that. Okay, saturation. is done as well. And next time was the ruminants. Luminant is the brightness off each color. So we will bring down the colors in the sky a little bit more as we did with the highlights . Orange here. Be careful because of the sand A little bit, Allow a little bit. Then I quote, we will intensify it a little bit lower left to look. I think I like it a bit brighter. Too much, but a little bit, especially in the water, In purple, in the sky. Bring it on a little bit, but only really a little bit. All right. And then we're done with the colors. If if we can all you can see everything here in one picture. If you're done with the colors, you can toggle on and off the changes right here. So this was before and this is after I think it lives. Quiet, more vivid. The sunset s better colors. There, everything looks more natural. Everything looks a bit more alive so you can talk on and off every martial except the basics that you can get an overview. What you have done 5. 4. Split Toning: after we're done with the colors now we will be going into the split, toning and split toning. It's also coloring the picture, but now it's divided into the highlights and the shadows. With that, you can die the highlights in a specific color as well as the shallows. What I like to do here, yes, die the highlights a little bit more blue and the shadows a bit more yellow to orange if you slide it to the right. If you change the color, nothing will happen at first. To see the changes, you have to pull up the saturation a little bit. But there's a trick turd. If you press old on your keyboard and then adjust the color, it can see the changes at 100% saturation. So I will be pulling it a little bit more into the blues that I get the tone. I'm looking for something like this, and then I will pull up the situation carefully until I like it in this guy. Yeah, I think that looks quite good. Next up was the shadows. So as I said a bit more orange yellow, something like that, and then her again be careful with a saturation. So we get a more reddish orange in warm sand. If you're talking on and off, we see we lose a bit of the magenta parts in the sky. That's something I don't like. So maybe I should change it a bit more into the magenta color, maybe something like and bring down the situation a little bit. Turn it on and off. Yeah. Now we got even more off the pink tones in the sky. I think that's something we can work with. If you don't like it in the end, we can change it anymore. So I think that's a good base to continue with our editing. 6. 5. Lens Correction: after we're done with a split toning, we will be going straight into lens corrections details of something we always do at the very end. So let's correction removes the chromatic aberration maybe you have seen and the corners off your pictures, some magenta and green colors that's caused by your lens, and you can remove it by clicking the remove chromatic aberrations tab. What you owe also can enable other profile corrections. In this case, I photographed this picture with the lens where the prophet corrections are built into the lens so nothing changes here, but I can show you what it does. So, for example, if I would have photographed this picture with a cannon lands, I go into Canon. Then I select my lens. I took the picture with, for example, 16 to 35 F two point edge, and then the pictures traded a little bit before. After before. Have to. You don't have to do it. It maybe it ruins a little bit the look off your picture, but you can do it but only select the lens you were photographing with. So that's not the one. I took the picture, so I won't ticket so that's already in Florence. Corrections and manually can change the range off the colors for chromatic aberrations as well. Change. Been getting cost by your lens Most of the times light from detects all this so that it's not necessary to get into the manual mode, but especially chromatic aberrations ticket. Really, every time you're editing your photos. 7. 6. Transforn and Straighten the Horizon: after we're done with the lens corrections, there's one thing left we have to correct in this picture. We have to get a straight horizon, and that's what we will be doing in the transform module. So simply what you do is click on or oh, yeah, and this time it fails. Mostly it works, but sometimes it fates. Sometimes that works if we just collected a second time, but not this time. What you can do is you can use their upright tool, and you can draw two lines that have to be even. This is great, especially for architecture or cityscape photography. What you do is you collect and then poor. Okay, that's the first loan, and then you have to do a 2nd 1 And now the two lines are the reference points for Adobe Light Room. This doesn't work with the landscape photography, so we will be disabling it, and we will do it manually. And to do that, we have to click into the crop window and then select the straighten toe. So now what you do is you click on the horizon line on the left and keep clicking your mouse, holding it and then straighten it on the horizon. If you're done, just release and now it's a even horizon. Sometimes it can look a little bit off. Then you have to trust your feeling what looks more natural in this photo? But that's where you can always get a straight horizon, as I already mentioned. Mostly they're transform toolbox, and if it doesn't, you can either click the upright toe or the straighten tool in the crop. Overly, you can also do it manually. You can walk the pictures well with the different transform options. 8. 7. Effects: so we had done with transforming the picture and next to the effects. If you're using an older light from version, you can find the hasten the effects. There was an update maybe a week ago, and it was moved into the basics. But if you're using an older light from version, you will find it in the effects but would remain in the effects. The when getting what this does, is it dark? Ends the corners a little bit, I recited and do it again. That's something you do to get the focus to the middle of the picture because the attention of the viewer always goes to the bright areas and the picture. I always do a little bit of vignette ing between minus five and minus 15. I think minus eight looks quite good right here. What you can do is use grain. I think that's something that applies to portray attitudes or toe Ataka mentoring style of photography, but not too landscapes. I've ever reset it, so that's basically everything we're able to do in effects and have to do in effects you don't have to do, even getting it's based on your personal preferences, but I like it, so I keep it in 9. 8. Spot Removal: We haven't talked about the tone curve yet as well as the details by that something we will do in the very end. And we will know talk about the selective adjustments we can do in light room. At first, we will remove objects that we don't want another picture, for example, here in the sand, a little bit of Seacrest's. That's something that that we want to get rid off so that we will select a spot removal tool. Now it's selected. If you want to some into the picture, just click the space bar, and then you were able to swim into the picture. If you click it again and hold the mouse, you can move the picture. So what you do as with a spot removal tour, you have either the option between clone or he'll what we're using at first as hell. So you just drove over it, and then light room detects areas that look the same, and it will replace it so you can change the settings. Here. You have to maybe play a little bit around with it. Capacity should be nearly 100% because otherwise there's no change to it, Feather keep it a little bit softer as well. It's the size, and the size depends on the size of the spot you want to remove. So again, just throw over it. And if you're not satisfied with the solution large from gives you if the possibility to change the area you want to use as a replacement, so I will continue to do that. If you have photo shop, then I recommend doing this and Photoshopped because it's more credit and faster than a light room. But because this is a light from training, we will do this right here can also click on it. You don't have to draw. Okay, now ever move for the small dirt on the sand and we will see afterwards when I'm done. Uh, so now I have a problem. I selected a bigger area in the left corner and light from failed to offer me a solution I want to have if I want to reset it or delete the one I just did have to right click on the dot and then select elite. Then I can do it again and often the second time lads from that's about better chop. Uh this term it doesn't. So I have to change it, grab it and pull it to the area. We think that fixes quite well. It doesn't here. Now what we can do risk to right? Click on it again and then select cologne instead of hell. So now it will replace it one by one. Yeah, maybe further it. A bit less. Yeah, this looks better. So I don't think if you so much yeah, you won't recognize it. So I'm nearly done. Just two spots one to and here can toggle on and off the spot removal za swell. This was before this is after I think quite a difference. Looks much cleaner, much better than before. Something that can just Maybe you're some Dennen doing the corrections, but assume is too far in the picture. What you can do is and the navigator, you can change the assume ratio so you can click for example Want to. So it's only halfway in Then it did before. So this was accidentally I deleted again. Come out and totally un enough again. Big difference. I think we're done with a spot removal 10. 9. Remove Big Objects: we chest removed all the small dirt in the sand from our picture. But what if we want toe erase big parts of our pictures like the boats right here We will suman again and start drawing now, not droid. Really tight, but get a big more off the surroundings because off the shaded throws and so that the transition is Kalina. So now we have to see if the effort did a good job. And, yeah, I did maybe pull it up a bit more. May you have to play around her that a little bit in the water. It's often easy as well as in the sky because it's Nuria structure. Maybe if you assume it, you see the little bit bad. If he so much we won't recognize that, Really, That's where the boat that's without it. If we know it, we will always see some hands to it. But if you show the picture online on your website or on Instagram or somewhere else, nobody will see it. So we suman again and will remove the last details. Okay, this didn't work. Selected manually into the other one. All right. If you move the mouse to the right inside out of the picture. Then the outline will disappear, and we will see a cleaner look to it. So OK, bold won't is done. This went really well. And now the 2nd 1 again draw with a little bit of thes surrounding and then hope for the best. Change it again a little bit. This looks great, I think. But maybe try cologne just to see what it does. Yeah. Now, that hasn't looked really good, so select hell, that's much better. All right, so much. And we removed the two boats. We were Nobody will see that. There they were there before, maybe again. Before and after what we did. Yeah, Much cleaner. Much more. Focus to the water and the sun set. And after we clean up a picture, we will start with the last color and contrast adjustments 11. 10. Graduated Filter: Now we want to use the filters. We got different options. We got the Grady End and the radio filter who will start with a Grady ated filter and it's perfect for a sky. So what we do? A sweet draw, a line from where it starts toe where it should end. This middle line year is 50% capacity off our trust mons. That zero in this land and above is 100%. We can draw it a little bit closer if we make some harsh adjustments, like from sky to the sea here. So our horizons a little bit off. What we can do is we can delete it and first press shift and then pull it down. Then we get a really straight filter. So no, what we want to trust it's a little bit The brightness in the sky Let a little bit down not match here minus 0.20 is good and change a little bit off the color off the sky. As I already mentioned, I like it a bit more blue and maybe a bit moment. Genter. Yeah, this looks good. Maybe try a little bit of saturation. Only a little bit. Yeah, that's nearly too much. I really two here. Two looks good. Great. So we did a graduated filter for the sky. What we will now, as we click on new select a new one and draw it from the bottom to the horizon. We re set it by double clicking on exposure. And no, we will boost a little bit. The exposure and the lower part of the picture. Yeah. Now the sand brightens up and we will get it a bit more yellow. And now this looks a little bit more like beach can always look before and after, before and after. Much better with that, you can get more even exposure into the picture and select only parts of the picture that you want to brighten or darken. 12. 11. Radial Filter: sometimes in your picture, your won't have a straight horizon line. I have maybe an area you want to brighten. Oh, you want to make some adjustments like saturation contrast. Then you have to youth the radial filter, and there you have to click, hold and pull it, and then circle opens up. So, for example, if you want toe bright, nap our picture in the middle a little bit, we draw the circle, then we're well increased the exposure a little bit, and then we have to click on Invert if you get the taken invert than the adjustments apply to the inner circle. If it is not, take it will apply to the outside of the circle. So and then you can feather it that it's not so obvious that you made this change is if it's in Syria, you will write c the circle. If it's on 100 a nearly on 100. Nobody were recognized. So with that, you can draw the attention of the future to the center because, as I mentioned, the viewer always look to the parts that are the brightest before after, maybe it no 0.5 point three. A little bit more subtle and maybe change it a little bit more to blue because off the water yeah, would you also can use the radio filter for is drawn your own vignette. So, for example, if you don't want to have a net to appear in the middle, parts on top and on the bottom, but everywhere on the sides, then trust row, circle, tone down the exposure little bed and leave Invert UnTech said it will apply to the outsides. I don't like it in this case, so I will delete it again. Right Click and select village. But the Radio Felter are for parts in the picture that are not straight. For example, if you want to brighten up a face off a portrait than there to go to filter. 13. 12 . Adjustment Brush: last but not least in the top. We can use theatre trust mint brush. They would get a brush and only the areas in the picture we brush on their The adjustments will be made. For example, on the branch. If we want toe brighten up the dark parts a bit more. Intensify the exposure a little bit, then changed size the brush, make it a bit smaller, father it and flow. Maybe about 70 density a little bit lower and then brush over it or can brush multiple times. So this would I had to it so here, or the dark parts You may not see it at first, but if you do it on and off, you will see differences. If you're did the changes and felt maybe this was too much. Then you can change the settings again. Oh, if you think that it could be a bit more, just increase it a little bit. But be careful. If you call too extreme, then you will see the brushstrokes. So we will going toe 0.3 again Here we will now select a new one, and what you can do is select or a mosque. Then light from trust. Identify which area you mean, and then we'll mask it accordingly to your strokes. Because, for example, in this area it's really, really tough to manually select only the brush, have to change the size all the time and maybe get a little bit into the water. But if you select autumn as only, this will only apply to the French. For example, if we if it changed the exposure to plus four, we will see the difference is no clearer. The sand is not affected as well as the waves, but the branches saw. Of course, it doesn't look really great by the increased the exporters so extremely that you can see what autumn asked us. I will delayed it again because I don't need it. But Autumn ask is a great possibility if it's difficult to really draw it in the picture. 14. 13. Color and Contrast Adjustments with Nik Collection: to conclude the editing process and makes him final. Color and contrast adjustments I use a plug in that is called color effects and color effects is part off a software called Nick Collection. You can download the Nick Collection for free. If you just Google Nick Collection and then click the first link, it will sport by Google. Before that, it costs over $100 so you can download it for free. Install it and then, if you right click on your picture, select edit in, you can see some plug ins that appear here. These are the plug ins from the new collection, and we select color effects. Pro Select. Edit a copy with the large from adjustments and then click edit and then color effects will open up. So now that's color affects pro. Don't be distracted by the fact that my knee collection is in German. The name off the photos are in English, so you know which one to choose. I already marked him with a star, so they will be appear here right here under favorites, and at first they use brilliance and warmth. This is nearly like the white balance, but it's more subtle in. I think you can achieve a nicer look, so I play around with it, get into the cold tones, although the warm ones and like it a little bit colder minus five looks fine. So after you made the changes, you have to click on Add are the button with a plus right here. So next up is pro contrast, and that's really the best way to add contrast to your picture. In my opinion, at first I pulled the dynamic contrast something like this, and then I corrected with contract contrast only a little bit. Yeah, this looks good. And then I added again again, If you remove the take right here, you can see before and after before and after or on this button appear that says something like comparison. If you click it and hold the mouse, you can see the before. And if you release the mouse, you see the after off all the filters you applied. So next up is polarization. It's something like the polarization filter, but it's only a simulation, so strength would be on 0%. Circulation also has to be it. Zero at first, and then I bring up the strength quite big. And then I changed the rotation so I can see what changes I made. So, for example, right here you see the water down here strider and the colors. I'm more saturated. It's in the sky. If I bring it to a new maybe around 115 degree, it can see we lose a bit of the color in the sky. But Ed contrast as well. Brightness is lost in the wife right here. So I like this much better. So I will keep with it, but not that much. So I reset strength to zero and then add a little bit of it. Yeah, something like this. And then at the filter again. So I do before and after before and after. I think much better contrast than before. Not this that extreme, only a bit. But it makes a big difference, and that's everything I do in color effects. Sometimes I try the tonal contrast. You have to reset them 0000 and then I slide. The Midtown's a little bit, but only a little bit, because the tonal contrast really extreme may be added and see a before and after you can see a big change. I like it, but not a 10%. Maybe a little bit lower, Like five headed again before NAFTA. Yeah, this looks great for after overall. That's something we can work on. And then if you click safe, the fire will be saved and opened up in light from again so we can make our sharpening. 15. 15. Sharpening and Export: so the last thing we do is our sharpening, and that's really essential. If you forget it, your picture loses a lot off the details, and if you show it on a bigger screen or even printed, people will immediately see it, that it looks soft and yeah, not not really complete. But why do we do the shopping in the end? Because if we do the sharpening in the beginning and then do all the contrast adjustments, this will add on to the sharpening and cause a lot of noise. So that's the reason we always to it in the very end. So for the shopping process I use go to settings, which is an amount off 80 here, areas off syrah, point age, details of 40. And then it comes down to the masking. If you click the old key on the keyboard and then click on masking, you can see where the sharpening supplied onto your picture. Everything that it's white there, the sharpening will be applied, so right now it's unmasking zero, so it's applied the whole picture. If I pull it more to the right, we see lead, especially in areas like the sand of the sky when not so much detail, there will be no sharpening, and that's the areas we don't want to sharpen because there's a lot of noise. Normally, we only want to sharpen the edges. So, for example, like this, we sharpen the branches, the sea and a bit off the clouds. But areas like the sand and this guy will not be affected by the sharpening, so masking I normally do between 50 and 80. It depends on the picture, but the settings for amount, radius and details for me are always 80 syrah, 800.8 and 40 masking. It depends on the picture. Then, if you want to weaken, do noise reduction. My picture was taken with Isil Hunt 100 so I don't have any noise in my picture. If you photographed with a higher I saw, then you can bring up the luminant a little bit, for example, like 20. And that's normally everything. If to do with the noise, you can see my picture. We lose a lot off the details. It may look nice in the sand as well as in the sky, but we don't want to lose our details in the branches the mountains and the sky, so I would reset the North reduction. We can see before and after and see a big difference, especially if you said a reference point, for example, like this and then this is without happening, and this is worth sharpening, so big difference. And after we're done with the sharpening, that's ultimate end result. The last thing you have to do is to export your picture. You have to save it, so to do that, just right, click on your picture. Click Expert and Export Select on Export The folder. You want to save it. Choose the image format you want to save it. Normally it's J pic. Choose the quality or the size and then click export and then you're done and your file is safe to your hard drive. 16. 14. Tone Removal: Before we do our sharpening, we head into the tone curve and there were able to trust the contrast and the colors a bit more. If we want toe on the left hand side in the tone cuff, we have the dark parts off the picture. And if we head to the right, we will see the bright owns so we can collect on the curve. Then a daughter piers, and then we can push the dirt up or down. If you put it up, we brighten it up, pull it down dark in it. The classic contrast adjustment is made by the S for, um, you clicked twice, pull down the dark parts a little bit and bring the bride parts up. So if you do it extreme, you can see the S cuff right here. If you double click on the dot, it will be reset to the foot. So that's not looking very good right now. So we reset it on, and if you click in the middle, you can make an over a contrast adjustment, brightness adjustment. Maybe we do it a little bit dark, huh? Like this. All right, So that's the contrast adjustment. If you click on Channel, you can select the red, green and blue color channel. If you click on red, you can make contrast adjustments to the red colors. For example again, the S curve. Bring it up in the bright owns on darknet in the dark tones and then you can see it can make color looks. So this color look really doesn't fit toe are pictures or I will be so we'll reset it and you can change the color interpretation. Ah, Fred. With the tone curve as well, you can bring it up to really get more red tones in the docks. Put it to the right so that they're less returns. This applies to the bright parts a swell, or if you want a more reddish look in our picture, just click in the middle, bring it up a little bit or if there too much red tones, then bring it down a little bit. Neither off this we want to have in our picture. So reset it again, but it can make it for all the different color tenets. What I mostly do is a bring a bit more off yellow color in my pictures to enhance the beach and sunset look. So to do that, you have to click on the bright tones and the tone Koth, and then bring it down a little bit. You can see, especially in the sand. We get more yellow tones and blue will be removed. You have to know that this is a global adjustment, so it applies to the whole picture. Sometimes it's extreme, but again it comes down to the effective on traffic, your picture. Or if you want to make color, look, for example, like this, it's a bit softer. Then I did the inverted s curve, so you have to play around with it a little bit to get the handle and to know which colors are affected. But tone curve is the tool to get your color looks in here. So I definitely gonna to reset it, and I'm done with the tone curve. And last but not least, is the sharpening 17. 16. Outro: and that's a rib. Thank you very much for sticking with me within the last 60 minutes. I hope you learned a lot about light room. I hope that you know how to use the slightest how to apply a great contrast saturation and Ceron again. This was all before, and this is the after big big difference. Really. I hope you were able to recreate such a result with your pictures. And I would love to hear from you about your feet back there. Very, very few instructors who offer a free lead from cost on. You know me. So I would really appreciate your feet back and your review because I put a lot of time and creating this chorus. So that would mean a lot to me if there any questions left, Feel free to send me a message. I reliance Red and I hope I will see you in the next course is because I'm I'm already about to create advanced light from courses. There's so much more left that we can talk about in depth techniques creating panorama, creating HDR pictures and so on light from really off us us. So much more possibilities. So again. I hope to see you in the other causes and thank you very much again for choosing this course.