Learn How to Sew a Blouse | Mel Thorley (Ditsy Tulip) | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

15 Lessons (2h 30m)
    • 1. How to Sew a Blouse Part 1 - Welcome and Stay Stitching

      11:31
    • 2. How to Sew a Blouse Part 2 - The Back Pleat

      8:14
    • 3. How to Sew a Blouse Part 3 - A French Seam

      11:36
    • 4. How to Sew a Blouse Part 4 - Side and Shoulder Seams

      5:52
    • 5. How to Sew a Blouse Part 5 - The Centre Front

      6:25
    • 6. How to Sew a Blouse Part 6 - The Sleeve Step 1

      11:59
    • 7. How to Sew a Blouse Part 7a - The Cuff

      13:14
    • 8. How to Sew a Blouse Part 7b- The Cuff Cont'd

      12:06
    • 9. How to Sew a Blouse Part 8 - Setting the Sleeves

      12:03
    • 10. How to Sew a Blouse Part 9 - Constructing the Collar

      13:50
    • 11. How to Sew a Blouse Part 10 - Attaching the Collar

      12:17
    • 12. How to Sew a Blouse Part 11 - The Rolled Hem

      5:02
    • 13. How to Sew a Blouse Part 12a - The Bow

      4:13
    • 14. How to Sew a Blouse Part 12b - The Bow Cont'd

      10:07
    • 15. How to Sew a Blouse Part 13 - Closures and Goodbye

      11:18
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About This Class

Making your own clothes is just so wonderful. In this class I show you step by step how to sew a blouse.

This is a challenging beginner/advanced level sewing project and you will need to purchase a sewing pattern, although you could watch the class to learn techniques that you could apply to different sewing projects.

The pattern that I have used is the Wear Lemonade Simona Blouse, its just adorable with its collar, cuffs and lovely bow detail.

You can access The Wear Lemonade website here, I am a member of their PDF pattern club which is great value, but you can also purchase paper patterns.

The videos are split into short lessons so that you can choose to either watch them all, or select the ones that you need help with, the lessons are as follows

  1. Welcome and Stay Stitching
  2. Sewing the Back Pleat
  3. Sewing a French Seam
  4. Sewing the Side and Shoulder Seams
  5. Preparing the Centre Front
  6. Sewing the Sleeve Step 1 (the sleeve slit)
  7. Sewing the Sleeve Step 2 (the cuff)
  8. Sewing the Sleeve Step 3 (Setting the Sleeve)
  9. Constructing the Collar
  10. Attaching the Collar to the blouse
  11. Sewing the Rolled Hem
  12. Constructing the Bow
  13. Adding the Closures and Goodbye

I hope that this class inspires you to learn how to sew and make a beautiful blouse.

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Meet Your Teacher

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Mel Thorley (Ditsy Tulip)

A Dressmaker who likes to paint.

Teacher

Hi I'm Mel from Handmade By Ditsy Tulip.

I recently joined Skillshare to help me to re-ignite an old skill of painting/illustration which I am absolutely loving so far (thanks lovely Teachers), but then I thought "I'd love to help others to learn how to sew"!

So, watch this space, I'm filming lessons as we speak and look forward to sharing them with you very soon.

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Transcripts

1. How to Sew a Blouse Part 1 - Welcome and Stay Stitching: lovely starshine lights my way to bed Magic rainbows Listen in my just like a child Live in Wonderland All my dreams are coming true Heavy shackles used to hold me down Now my feet don't even wreaking the ground Just like a prisoner ready Santon's and all my dreams are coming true Think ago Boston Tonight so along to make this amazing Where lemonade, Simona blouse My vision is made from the most amazing retro liberty of London Tana Lawn in this beautiful mustard color which I'm up loving at the moment on what of donors are filled So in this step by step eso it can help you to give it a go yourself as well Because I know some people find the way lemonade patterns a little bit difficult because the patterns are primarily printed in French. Although this one does have some English instructions as well. What the where lemonade help videos that are out there are in French as well eso Although they are super useful if you need riel high level detail, you might not get that from the videos that are out. There s Oh, I'd love you to join May. I'd love to know how you're getting along Broke it up into lots off bite size videos Eso You can just pick and choose the ones that you need help with or you can watch it all the way through from start till end So happy So we do let me know what fabric you're going to use on. I'll see you in the next video. All my dreams are common in all my dreams are home So in the first video what I'm going to be showing you how to do is stay stitching. It doesn't tell you about stay stick chine and the instructions in the pattern. And that's probably because it's a given that you need to do that every time you're so mean Next on armholes anyway. But just in case you are an absolute beginning on and you're trying to work from this pattern, do what this video where I'll talk you through how important it is to stay stitch on exactly how you do that to S O. B. Stay stitching the neck line. I'm on Duthie armholes just to make sure they don't get pulled totally out of shape. Aziz, you are manipulating the fabric and she said, So do watch on and I'll see in the next video. Okay, so the first step that I'm gonna follow on the where lemonade Simona blouse is stay stitching now actually doesn't say anything about stay stitching in the instructions. But it's a given that you should always stay stepped on any project that you are, so we, Because if you don't stay stitch, if the money's I've only made that mistake once where I didn't bother with stay stitching Andi. I've only ever made them estate wants because it resulted in the neckline being old gay p and all out of shape. So I would never skip that step again. So I'm just going to show you which pattern PCs that I'm going to stay stitch. The 1st 1 is the the back yoke. So this has a neckline. So what I've done here is I've folded it in half to find the center point. I've just put depend in there. You can see that there and then what I'll do here is I will stay stitch from the top off the shoulder down to the center there, and then I'll stay stitch from the top off that shoulder a meet in the center there, So it's two separate. Stay stitch lines on a neckline going from the shoulder downwards into the center. I will show you at the sewing machine. How are so with e stay stitch line. But it's generally smaller stitch than you would normally work with on its half the seam allowance seam allowance on this top is one centimeter, so I'd be so in the state stitcher half a centimeter. So that's the first piece I'll stay stitched the neck. The next is the back piece, which attach is onto the yolk and I'll stay stitch this at the armholes. So for arm hole, stay stick, junior. Just start from the top. Undo a line all the way down till do on that side, and I'll do the same on that side. And then I've got the to front shoot PC's. So because this is split in two, it isn't like the back where it's a continuous line on the neck. I'll start at the shoulder on. Just go down to there the same on this side, started a shoulder and go down to the center, and I also stay stepped the armholes. Eso start at the top and go down to the bottom on the same on the other side. Eso don't don't skip, stay stitching. It is really important. It does ensure that the armholes and necklines don't stretch out of shape on it doesn't take very long to do. It only takes a few minutes, so it's well worth it. So I'll just move over to the sewing machine and I'll show you how a stitch them. Okay, so I'm going to show you how to do the stay stitching at the sewing machine. What I'm going to be doing here is the back yolk. So this is the one where I'm gonna So from the top of the shoulder to the center point that I've marked with the pen on, then the same on the other side. I have put a new needle in my Syrian machine. I'd always recommend that, especially when you're sewing with Tana Lawn because it's so tightly woven. You really do need a nice new sharp needle. The needles that I find that work really well with Tana Lawn as the General Bluetec needles , Um, a blue tip on the end. That's why they called that. But I find these needles were really well with Tana Lawn. Okay, so the seam allowance on this pattern is one centimeter. So your stay step gene is normally so now, half off the size of seam allowance. So half a centimeter is what I'm gonna So So there's the hall for centimeter line on my seven plate. Andi, I'm using a straight stepped on the machine, but I'm going to make the stitch length a little bit smaller than what it is. Normally. The standard straight stitch on my machine is 2.2 in length. And I'm gonna make that 1.8 now because you are working on quite lightweight fabric on your sewing Quite close to the edge at what you come find happened sometimes is your sewing machine. Foot pulls the fabric down into the feed dogs, especially at start, so I don't start right on the very edge. I'm just in slightly from the shoulder because what I am going to do is do a back stitch. Anyway, on what also recommend is hold on to their threads, which are running at the back of the machine to both the bobbing on Duthie main threat on pull backwards when you first, so we because that will help to ensure that the fabric doesn't get sucked in. So I'm just going to do about to stay now. I'm not sure if you've watched any my or the videos bought. My biggest tip. When your serene is don't watch the needle. If you watch the needle, you'll find you'll go off track and it'll go wobbly. I always just look at whether the fabric stain lined up with whichever guide I'm working on almost seven plate. So here I'm just watching the fabric to make sure that it stays lined up to that dash there disc in it. So to where the pen iss I just remove it on the notice to a backstage, hold out, snip off the threats, and then I'm going to start from the shoulder to the center on the other side and just do exactly the same. I'm pulling the threads at the back, start boxed it. You stop the center back, stitch again and snip off the threats so you can see there is a stitch line now, which runs along the top. But what you can see is it stops that from getting pulled out of shape so I can pull it now on. But it doesn't get pulled out of shape, so it just helps to ensure that your top doesn't lose its shape as you are saving it. For example, if you look at this sleeve here, I won't pull it too hard. You don't want to pull out of shape, but it's really bendy. That's I'm not using any pressure. It'll them, and it could very easily bend out of shape. So I'll just show you how to do this on one sleeve, and then you'll get the idea for the all My dreams are common. All my dreams are dreams coming true on You can see That's got much less stretching it then and that's it. That's how you stay Stitch 2. How to Sew a Blouse Part 2 - The Back Pleat: at least way in this video, we're going to be looking at how you make this lovely pleat that runs down the back off the top. You'll see from the pattern piece. There's like a piece of the pattern that you caught out on. That's what you manipulate to make this lovely plate. So do watch on and I'll show you how to do that. Okay, so the next step two so in this pattern is too. So the pleat, which is on the back off the bodies to this his pattern piece number three Andi, the paper pattern does give you a guy to show you what direction you folding deplete. So you're folding from you've got a not choose court at the bottom of the section that's caught out to the fabric and you've got a notch that's caught there. So what you'll be doing is folding along that notch on pulling it or to meet that one. So I'll show you how to do that on the fabric. So I'm working with my fabric with the right side of the fabric facing officer. That is the right side that you can see here. Aunt, here is the gap that caught out are shown in the pattern piece. So what I've got is a little notch at the bottom of that gap there, and I've got a little notch at the top there. So what I'm going to do is flip this around just because it's using it to work with. So here's my cup. Now, the method that I find easiest for putting a pleat in place is too felt, pinched the fabric and fold it along this bottom notch here, some just pension it in and then bring that fold line or to meet that notch there until it meets you. Make the knowledge of the top. So there's the fold line. I'm just gonna put a pen in toe hold in place. I'm gonna do the same on the other side. So flipped the fabric round just to make it easy to work with, but still right side of the fabric facing up. So I'm going to do to say I'm gonna fold along that bottom notch, and then they're gonna bring that fold line or to meet this notch at the top, and then I'm just going to put a pen name so you do end up with little pointed bits sticking up at the top. And that's fine because you'll just be snipping those off. But you can see what I've got. There is a pleat in the outward pleat in the back off the bodies. Now, to make sure that you've folded the pleat correctly, what I'd suggest is getting the back yoke, a piece of fabric that you've got caught out on that will be being attached to this topic piece here. So I just place it on top to make sure that it looks that all that about that's the right size said that will go along now nine is ending up a little bit short. So I'm gonna fold that pleat again, - okay ? And then I'm just going to check it again and see if it's the right size this time. So I'm getting my yoke munching it off at the first corner. Yes, that's right. That meets. They're all that about both corners meet on, but I the red now. So what you need to do next is take this over to the sewing machine on you just do a small stitch line just so in over the top off that pleat that you've got folded there just to secure it in place. So I'll just take that over to the seven machine. Okay, So the next step is just to secure this pleat in place just by doing a little stitch line over the top. So you can see here is the I've got the fabric right side facing up a gain on you can see the pleat there just in the background and there's the pens holding it in place. Eso I, um So in it at just slightly less than one centimeter, See, you can see that as the one sent to me Two seam allowance. Andi, I am starting the needle eso that the stitch line starts just before where the fold of the pleat is when a port nights declined back to back up to normal length. So 2.2 on what I'd suggest is holding the pleat with your fingers there just to help to ensure that that doesn't get scrum pulled up behind the 7 40 serving. I guess I'm just going over the plate now. I'm gonna do a back stitch. I don't very often keep pens in as I'm so in. But I am on this. You do run the risk off the needle, hitting one of the pens and breaking There isn't really any other way that you could ensure that that complete stays folded as you're so over it. And then you can remove them as you go. So just coming to the end, I can see under my presser foot the fold of the pleats. I'm just going to do a back stitch snipped off so you can see, then the fold is now secured in place and the little bits off fabric that hanging over at the back. You can just snip those off with scissors. What I'm going to do now, before they do move onto the next step, I'm gonna take it back over the table on I'm going to just check out the day before that the yolk doors, they're all there or about sit correctly on top. So I know that the plea tough stayed in place and hasn't changed. Sizes have been so minutes. I won't show you how to do that again, but I just checked that. If it is that it doesn't fit now you'll need to one pick that pleat. Andi followed the same process again 3. How to Sew a Blouse Part 3 - A French Seam: least way, way. This video I'm going to show you how to sew a French seem so dull. The seams in this blouse are French, Seems s so you can see there. It's a really beautiful Andi clean finish. And it does work really well with Tom the Lord or any lightweight type fabric. The only seen that isn't French seemed is the armholes which I finished with the over locker. But other than that, the side seams on the back yoke is French. Seem so Do what, John, And I'll show you how to do that. It's much, much easier than what you think. Okay, so the next step is to attach the yoke to the back bodies piece. But with this pattern is actually a French seem that you are going to use now I put off serene French seems for ages and ages because I just thought, you know, such a professional finish. It must be really complicated to dio. But actually, it's super super easy, so I'll show you how to do that at the first thing that I'm going to do is measure, um, the length off the top off the back bodies piece just so that I can find the center point for that 42 ERM so you can see there. I've just put a pin in the center point of 21 and then I'm going to do to say on the joke as well said the bottom of the yoke. This is not where the Net Linus measured. That should be the same, which is a 41 eso again. Just put a pin in at 21 and then know what I'm gonna do is pin the two PCs together. Now, what is a little bit different when you're doing French seems is initially you will pin them together with the wrong side of the fabric to the wrong side of the fabric witches back to front, to the way that you would normally do what you'd normally always put the fabric right side to right side. But with a French seen, you start off by putting it wrong side to wrong side. So I've got the wrong side of the back bodies piece facing up towards me, and I've got the wrong side off the yoke facing down on top of that so we'll start just by opinion. It's at that center point matching the two pins together, and then I'll just pin it along the two sides, just making sure that the fabric is brought it up together. So just carry on and pin the same along this side. Then what I'm going to do is head over to the sewing machine. Andi, Initially, I'm going to so 1/2 a centimetre seem line across that edge there. So let's so the first step off the French scene. So, as I said before, it's 1/2 a centimetre seam allowance that you need to. So So I've got the fabric lined up with the half centimeter point on my seven plate on as before, I'm going to try and avoid watching the needle is, um so I'm just gonna keep an eye to make sure the fabric stays. At that point, it's a little bit easier now than what it waas when we were doing the stay stitching because you're working with a more straight line rather than that curve eso to start off. I'm just gonna go forward, but pull on my threads at the back jewel box and they continue to send and then you can see now as I'm sewing and putting a bit of pressure just behind the serving fort and just in front. That's because because you're working on such a narrow seam there, it can get sucked into the machine. And I've just found that adding a little bit of pressure like that does just help to stop that from happening. Sometimes it still does happen, but it happens less frequently. Removing the pens is ago, - No . Okay, when you get to the an injustice back stepped, you gain from the threats. So that's the first seems so. And what now need to do is head over to the I in. So I compress that before. So the second scene, which will fully enclose that one inside. Okay, so I'm gonna press this, seem now ready to So the next bit of the French see what I'm going to do, first of all is just to press that seam allowance open so that I've got a clean seam allowance on the other side. Then what I'm gonna do is press it or towards the tops of pointing towards the neckline. Chances are my coming was going to steam up whilst filming this bet So that's why I just wanted to explain it Before I start all my dreams air common all my dreams are dreams coming true Okay, so what you're now going to dio is getting prepared for the next step in creating the French C on. All you're going to dio is you're going to fold it along. That same line that you just created said the fabric is now right side to right side like you would normally work eso we just show you that again. I've got the fabric with the wrong side facing up towards May and I'm gonna folded in on itself along that same line to the fabric is now right side to right side. And I'm just going to put some penzance Penn all the way along that seem line. And then what we'll do is we'll go over to the sewing machine and then you're so a one centimeter seam allowance on what you end up with that. The end result is that that little roar edge that you've created previously it's totally hidden on the inside. So it's a really clear finish. I'm gonna put some pens in along there and then I'll head over to the sewing machine and so that one sent to me to see my violence. So let's get the final step of this French seen sewn eso you can see here. As I said before, it's a one cent to me. Two seam allowance that I'm now so mean eso Here is the folded edge that I just pressed and penned on Have lined that what with the one sent to me to line on my seven plate and then, as before, pulling dreams coming true. And that's it. That's all the risk to so in a French See, I do just need to press that now. I need to check in the pattern instructions, whether oppressive or poor weather. Press it down, but you can see from the outside it looks like you seem ward anyway, whatever method, if you've used. But on the inside, it's beautiful, it's it's the roar. Allergies are all enclosed, and it's such a professional finish. Hopefully, you can see that they're on their on the camera and that's it. That's all the rest to a French seems, so it's not difficult at all, and it does actually save you a lot of hassle because you don't need an over locker Where If I was so in a seam in a standard way, I would now need to waste their through the over locker to finish the roar of juice. And if you haven't gotten over locker on, you can't do that. So it does save you. I'm a lot of expense. And in the way of not having to go out and buy a new machine, you do really have to be working with life to wait. Fabrics for French. Seems it doesn't work as well with heavier weight on but the liberty of London Tarnaud lord works really well, okay, so we'll move on to the next step. Okay, So I just checked the pattern instructions to check which way I press this seam allowance which is joining the yoke to the bodies and you do press it down. Eso all of dawn is have started with the wrong side of the fabric facing off I've got my I am dreams coming true that set top starting to come together Now I've got my yoke the bottom of the bodies with a lovely pleat That's the seam allowance and if you look at the wrong side, that's what the pleat looks like on the wrong side on. And that is what that seam allowance looks like. So it is a French C, so it's a really clean finish, so we'll move on to the next part of the top, making this top. 4. How to Sew a Blouse Part 4 - Side and Shoulder Seams: at least our way Don't a friend seem on the back yoke at what we're now going to do? Is the French seams on the shoulders on on the side seams? So I'm not gonna talk you through in as much detail because we've done that on the previous video. But I'll show you exactly how I do that. Feel free to skip if you think that you've got the knack of it and you can just go ahead and do the French seams on the shoulder Andi sides or carry on watching if you want to see it again So the next step in so in the Samona blouse is to do French seems again. But this time on the shoulder seams Andi theme side seems so. I'm gonna be joining the back bodies on the front body sees together s I'm going to start by pinning them at the shoulder seams. So remember or just noticed? Look how well my cardy matches with the with the blouse must be in a definitely animal stood mood. So I'm as before you are working with the fabric initially wrong side to wrong side. So I've got the back of the bodies but the wrong side of the fabric facing up towards May on on placing the bodies front with the wrong side of the fabric facing down said, That's the wrong side and I'm going to start just by pending at the shoulder seams. We'll just put a few pens in Andi side Seamus, while So Joe, you need from the bottom off the arm hole all the way down, so I'll put pins in all the way down there. I wish I had the lens that zoomed out more so I could show you that in the bigger picture. But I haven't a moment. I'm gonna pin that all the way down there, said the fabric is wrong side to wrong side on. Then what I'll do is I'll take it over to the Syrian machine on as before. I will so 1/2 a cent to me to see, to join it together. I'll then bring it back on and press it on. Then I'll take it back over to the sewing machine. I'll be put in the fabric right side to right side and so in a one cent to me to see eso, I will feel film as I do it, but because of already showed you that once I'm not going to talk as I'm doing it cause I'm going to speed it up on the video. So just to recap, the fabric is wrong Side to wrong side Initially pin the shoulder seam on pen the side sea all the way down Take it to the sewing machine So it at half a centimetre seam allowance Bring it to the iron press That seam allowance open folded in two Along the seem line that you've sown but folded right side to right side And so it again at a one centimeter So you'll have that French scene So I'll crack on with that I will film it as a say but I'm gonna play that speeded off So yeah, I won't talk us I'll sound like a mouse. Okay, so police dash lights my way to bed Magic rainbows Listen in my just like a child live in Wonderland All my dreams are coming true Heavy shackles used to hold me down Now my feet don't even wreaking the ground Just like a prisoner ready Santon's and all my dreams are coming true I think I'll go buy into sky Give the moon a smooth He's my kind of guy. Maybe I'll even give Saturday Tried it offers is ring with look in his eye Excuse me and I'm silly now who's going willy nilly? And that old to you has changed my former point of view Just like a butter live guy. New Ways All my dreams air common All my dreams are humming dreams Coming lovely Starshine lights my way to bed Magic rainbows Listen in my just like a child Live in Wonderland All my dreams are coming True Heavy shackles used to hold me down Now my feet don't even wreaking the ground Just like a prisoner ready Santon's and all my dreams are coming true I think I'll go buy into this guy. Give Moon 5. How to Sew a Blouse Part 5 - The Centre Front: least next video show you how to fold the center front s so that you can later add the buttons or the snaps. Now, in this section on the pattern, I do think that may be a slight misprint on where you fold on the pattern. So I do explain that to you as I'm going through that video. Eso do watch just to make sure you clear on that. But it's simply how to fold. And so that's sent to see. Okay, so the next step is to prepare. And so the front off the top where the buttonholes and buttons will go eso What will say is , First of all, I was a little bit confused by the so important in this area because what they're so in partners got is three not jeez that you'll cut out in your fabric on. I'm on the first notch. It says. Fold the second notch, it says, folds on the third notch, it says middle front. So I was a little bit confused. First of all is to where I'm supposed Teoh fold those clothes that didn't quite work out. The only way that I've been able to think that it does work ISS. Where the first notch is, you fold the fabric over onto the wrong side. So there's the first notch. Well, im just fold in that over on. Then I would press that. So that measures 1/4 of an inch. So would press that all the way down. And what, then of dawn is have ignored the second notch. Andi, I fold it again along the third notch like that. So what that then gives you is the raw edge is enclosed on the inside. But it then gives you a fold line here, which is 1.5 centimeters that I will then stitch on. Then that is the second notch is them visible there, which runs down the center of that fold on. That is where I assume the buttons and buttonholes will be lined up. So I can only assume that the markings of perhaps import in the wrong place, so that should be fold. That should be middle front. And that should be fold unless I'm understanding something wrong here. But I'm going to say well up on what I think has racked on, then see how it works out. Ml of course, update you if it doesn't work out. And I've done something wrong. So just to go over that again on the first notch unfolding it end all the way down unprecedented. So what I've got is on the wrong side of the fabric. I've got 1/4 of an inch fold. I'm ignoring the second notch and then the third notch unfold in it again. I'm pressing it all the way down. So that means that I've got a fold off 1.5 centimeters running all the way down the front. And I repeat that on the other side as well. Then just put some pins and all the way down there, and then I'll take it to the sewing machine on and edge stitch. Done that flap. But I'll show you that was to get to the machine. So that is what I think is the correct way to So the front as a say, maybe there's a slight misprint on the pattern in relation to what's folds on what is the centre front. But I'll let you know how we get on with that. Okay, so move over to the same machine. Okay? So now I'm going to edge stitch theme center front bodies where the button holes on the Bordens are going to go. I'm just using a straight stitch, but I do like to make the length a little bit longer. When I'm doing a hedge ditch, it just makes the stitching look a little bit, Nita. So my standard machine is 2.2. I'm gonna put that up to 2.6 as before. I'm going to avoid watching the needle here because that will make me go a little bit wobbly ism sewing what donors have seen where the little arrow is on my presser foot on blind. That or with where they want the stitch line to bay on. Then I can see on my Serbian plate here that lines up with the 5/8. There you go. There's 5/8 point on my so in plate. So that's what I'm going to be watching. I've checked that this is the same with all the way along in. It airs. So if I'm watching the 58 smart there, that should keep that stitching nice and even I'm gonna start as before, talking the threads at the back to help stop the fabric from getting sucked up into the machine. Do a back stitch. All my dreams air common All my dreams are dreams coming true Now that said that stitched away, down I will press its which are just meeting out that stitch line. But it's stitch now all the way down there. That's what looks like on the wrong side. Then that's what it looks like on the right side. So I'm going to repeat that on the other side on, then we'll move on to the next stage of top. 6. How to Sew a Blouse Part 6 - The Sleeve Step 1: at least way. So now we're moving on to the sleeves, the sleeves of probably the most time consuming part off this blouse. Eso I have split it up into three different videos. Just to make sure that it is not altogether is one big block. It can be a bit overwhelming. So in this first video, what I am showing you is how to attach this cover that goes on the slit off the sleeve. So when you've got your cough fastened, it's that gap there. So do what, John, I'll show you how to do that is a little bit federally. So I'd watch the video all the way through to the end before you start doing that yourself . If it's the first time that you give it a go. But don't worry too much about mistakes either. It doesn't have to be perfect. Part of the fun of this is simply that you've made it yourself. So carry on and watching video, and I'll show you how to do that. So moving on to the sleeve now, Andi, at the fair thing that I need to do is attach the little covering that goes over the slit of the sleeve. So this is the bottom part off the sleeve. And that's the slit. That of court out as instructed on the Patton on this is the little Corbett, which has got a notch in the center off it. Hopefully, you can see that there. So what you need to do is have the sleeve with the right side of the fabric facing off, and you just need to open. That's late so that it's a horizontal line. You're gonna have the little cover with the right side of the fabric facing down on your gonna pen the middle notch into the center, and then you're gonna pain the Aggies along. Just keep putting the pens along that side and then the same along. This sad it's it. So you will have and the little cover can't remember what pattern pieces called. It will overhang the edge of the sleeve on both sides. But that's fine. That's normal. That's what it's supposed to look like. What I'm gonna do next is go over to the seven machine, and I'm just going to so theme seem line all the way along that I was until edge there. I think it will be 1/4 of an inch scene, but I'll just check on the instructions before a Soviet soldiers head over to the sewing machine. So we're just gonna so this little strip in place now it's 1/2 a centimetre seam allowance that you using when I just checked the Patton. So make sure if you've still got your stitch land, set it the longest ditch from the previous video. Just put that back down to the standard length of 2.2 now. So start saving last it and then just stitch all the way along. Removing dependence. Is she go? We'll get a little bit fedley when you get to the center point because you're gonna have her crease on the underside of the fabric. But just keep it pressed down with your fingers to hold it in place. - Que monde back stitch when you get to the end, of course, you start and stop where the sleeve is not all the way to the end off the little coffee. Just going to check that it hasn't got it's stuck and any obvious that looks fine. Summer's gonna take that over to the eye, and we're going to press it. It's a bit like creating a bias binding, which goes over the over the edge. So just take it over to the iron. So now I'm going to press this little Korver so that it fully encloses the slit on the sleeve. Now this bit is really fiddly. What? Just keep going with it. And don't worry about it being too perfect. If it's not quite not quite straight, just just don't worry about it. So what I'm going to do? First of all, I've got the sleeve with the wrong side of the fabric facing up towards me on the first thing that I'm going to do is press the seam allowance away from the sleeve towards the edge off that little cover. What I'm then going to do is fold again, but from the top, so that this line here meets the seem line that kick out of it to the center point on, then twist it around a little bit. Do the other side on the final step is two fold again like that. So fold it back on itself. Just press again all the way along. That's what it looks like now so it's folded in on itself. And then what I'm going to do now is head back over to the sewing machine on I'm just going to stitch edge stitch along here just to secure that in place. So I'm just gonna stitch down, um, the edge now on the slit on the sleeve just to finish that off. Eso you can see there, I've I'm serving on the wrong side of the sleeve where the bias binding type cover is folded in on I'm going toe edge stitch close to the edge all the way along. That does get a bit tricky when you get to I'm the point. Just try and feel with the fingers to make sure it's not getting caught up underneath, But sometimes it doesn't. You just need to one pick it. So that's just so that just gonna leave the need Land there pivoted around a bit. Hopefully it'll help it to not get caught up. The same began. Leave the needle and pivot box ditch. So once you've attached the binding away around the raw edge of that slit in the sleeve, what you need to dio did actually include this on the clip before, but I've realized that it was out of shocked when I was explaining it. So I'm just going to explain that again. What you need to dio is cut off this corner here because otherwise, when it's open, the corner will be gaping outwards. So all are dead. Waas fold that sleeve over right side to right side. So the two bound veggies are on top of one another. So this is the bottom of the sleeve here on then All I did is stitched over the top of that corner. So I started there on did a diagonal line to the end there. Hopefully you can just see that stitch in line and then what? That means I've gotta press it yet, But wouldn't you open out your cough? The corner is on the inside rather than sticking out as it will be. So I just folded it right side to right side with the bound edges on top of one another, the bottom off the sleeve facing towards May. And then I just caught off that top corner by just showing a stitch line from there diagonally to that. Okay, so let's have a lot now how to add this cough 7. How to Sew a Blouse Part 7a - The Cuff: at least wait, Let's carry on with these sleeves. In this next video, I'm going to show you how to attach the cough to the sleeve. Make sure you have into faced one off the cough PCs for each sleeve, just to give it that extra bit off stability. So do watch on. I'll explain to you in full detail how to add this cough, so the next step is to get the cough prepared, ready to add on to the sleeve. Now I have already stitched this cough, but I'll explain to you what a dumb so you'll have to cough PC's. We'll actually have four to make each cough. You need to cough PCs. I'm one off them. You need to add interfacing so you decide. I haven't interface just on one side. On on the pattern piece, you'll see. There's one notch, which is there so little slip that's caught out. What you need to do is place the coughs right side to right side. Now there's actually a misprint in the pattern on on this. It tells you to place the cost together, wrong side to wrong side, but that's incorrect. It needs to be right side to right side on. Then what you're going to do is you're going to stitch from the notch over to that edge there, all the way down that small side, all the way along the bottom or notched edge, and then back off on this side. But stop at one centimeter down. So just to explain that again, there's the notch that you've caught out from the pattern you're going to. So one son to me, two seam allowance from the notch to the end, down that short side, all the way along the bottom edge, which hasn't got a not Janet, and then back up that short side, but stopping one centimeter down from the top, then just going to snip the corners off. Leave that one because I'm gonna press that over, have snipped the corners off. What I'm then going to do is press seem so No. On the interface side on the other side, all I'm going to do is take over to the Alyan and just press that down by one centimetre all the way along there. So I'll press that and then I'll show you what to do next is gonna take this over to the iron. Okay, so let's get this pressed now. So just as a reminder, I folding back the top seam allowance on the side of the cough that hasn't got any interfacing on it. And I'm just gonna press that along that. Okay, so that's pressed all the way long. Well, I'm now going to do is turn the cough right side out. I'm gonna use my Bodkin just to push those corners out nice and clean. Andi, just roll. Seem at the bottom there, just so that lays flat. And then I'm just gonna press that again Justin over and press the other side. Okay, so that's the cough. Prepped, ready to attach to the sleeves so you can see at one side as it overhangs the seam allowance. And that's what we need, because that will be where the button is added. And then when the coffee is closed, that closes lot up. What we'll do is we'll attach that to the sleeve. Okay, so now that we've got the cough all pressed and prepared, what we now need to do is start to prepare the actual sleeve. It's tell itself. So the first thing that of dawn is sewn a row off, gathering stitches along the bottom edge off the sleeve. Eso all of dawn is I've put my stitch lent on to maximum, which is five. I'm on my machine and then I've just sewn one row of gathering statues along there. I'm less than a centimeter and from the edge so that it will be headed inside the seam allowance. And then I've done the same across that longer side, so again wrote off gathering stitches all the way along there. What I now need to do is do a French CIB on the sleeve itself before we start to add the cough. So all that you need to do is fold the sleeve matching up the side, see? But you're going to start with the wrong sides together. So if you refer to the previous videos on how to sew a French seem I won't show you all the steps again because we've done it before a couple of times now. But I'm gonna pin right side to right side all the way up the seam on the sleeve on I'm going to so that at 1/2 a centimeter and then going to press it, unfold the fabric right side to right side on dso it at a one centimeter seam allowance. What I would say is make sure that the long threads that are on the inside of this slit make sure they don't get tangled up in any of the step gin because you're gonna need to pull those to gather the end fit inside the cough. But the two sets of long threads which are on the inside side. So where the Seamus you could just stitch over those? That's fine. Okay, Something's gonna head over to the machine, and I'm gonna do the French seam on. Then what I'll do is I'll show you how to attach the cough to the bottom of the sleeve. So the French seam is so enormous. Leave now. Eso You could see the French seam is running all the way up the side seam that So what I'm now going to do is attach the cough to the end of sleeve. So what I've got here is the sleeve is got the fabric with the right side facing outward. So the right side of the fabric is facing off on. I've got the slit on the top so you can see there. That's a slip that was so daily. I've got my gathering threats ready there for effort. Do need to change the size off the gathers, so make sure they haven't got caught up in the stepped in at any point. If you do need to gather, all you do is pull on the top threat. I moved the fabric along too. Whatever gather, we need it to bay. So here's the cough. What I'm going to do is turn the cough so that it is both sides or the right side. But what I'm gonna do is place the side that's got the extended edge. I'm onto the cough with the edge line, you know, put the top edge of the sleeve. So what I'm going to do? First of all, let's just put a few pins in to see whether I need to adjust my gathers. So I'm starting by lining up the end of the cough there. So that's the end that hasn't got the overhang on. I'm learning that up to the edge off that slit. Okay, I'm just gonna stick a pin and the on then just rough late. Pin it around so I can see how my gathers where came. So what I need is the other side tow line or with that end piece there said that overhang will just hangover. Not that. So let's have a look at that. So you can see I've got too much gather and must leaves. I'm just gonna pull it out a bit and try and keep it a little bit even. No. What's destroy GAM roughly? It's not looking bad, so I'm gonna put a few more paenza. Okay, Okay. Just needs gathering. See, the sleeve is just going slightly longer and the coughs, I'm just gonna pull that thread to gather in a little bit of the end slightly. I have again if it actually one thing I should have said which makes it easier is put the pins on the inside because what we're going to do, I'll show you when we get to the seven machine, it's easier to so on this inside. But here, when you're so in the sleeve, so if the pins are on the inside, it just makes them easier to remove. And I forgot to do that so I'm just gonna move them to the inside. Just put more in there. Okay? So that's it. It's all penned. Ready to 8. How to Sew a Blouse Part 7b- The Cuff Cont'd: this. Just stitch the cough in place to the under the sleeve. So what was So it is a one centimeter seam allowance. And as I said, the easiest way is to sew on the inside off the sleeve. It just makes it easy to move under the foot. But what you just want to watch as you're serving is you don't want to catch this edge off the course in your stitching line so you could just push that out the way like that, As you say, So just start, do about stick what? I'll do results. So just a little bit of the way. And then I'll just keep checking that this cough isn't getting court in the stitching underneath. - Just keep Gary on that. So all the way to the end, do about came just gonna check that it hasn't got court anywhere, which hasn't so that sets. I'm gonna go back over to the table on. All I'm going to do now is get this ready to enclose inside. So you can see there at what I'm gonna do is press that seam allowance or and then enclosed that inside that cough all the way around so I'll just show you that at the table. So now we've stitched the cough to the bottom of the sleeve. All of dawn is pressed the seam allowance. So it's facing up towards the cough. So what we're going to do now is enclosed that roar edge under the other side off the cough . So it'll look like that. The easiest way to do this is to pin it from the other side to turn it over. Andi, I'm going to start at one side. Just make sure the edge Corvis that stitch line the needs to go over it. And I'm gonna pour us pen and making sure the eight catch ease the fabric on the back. I'm going to do that all the way along, because then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go back over to the machine and I'm gonna top stitch along that edge. In fact, in the top stitch all the way around the cough. But what that will do as well killing two birds with one stone is it will stitch the cough down on the wrong side of the sleeve, making sure that that rule Reg is covered. So I'm gonna carry on with the pens, making sure that the seam allowance stays facing up towards the cough. That may be easier ways to do this, but this is the method that I find works for May. You need to be careful when you get to the edge to make sure that that corner stays talk to him. So I'm gonna put pen right at the edge. Great little ago. So what? Pins really long There on depends also in the fabric on the wrong side. So I'm gonna take this back over to the sewing machine on. I'm gonna top stitch along here first, but I'm also gonna tops it all the way around the cough, and then that will be it. So I'm gonna top sticked the cough. So what you need to do is make sure that this bit here stays flat, is just serving. You make sure it doesn't kind of curve One delight that so just put your finger on top to keep that flat. I'm top stitching. Come be a little bit tricky keeping it straight. Eso what I dio I'm not sure how much you'll see on the camera, but because I'm top stitching on this Just on the outside edge off the seem line. What I'm going to do is use the edge off the inner side of my seven foot. There s O because I can't follow my guideline on here. I'm gonna follow to make sure that that seem line stays lined up with the inner edge off my eso being fought there. So that's I'm going to make sure that it stays straight. Talk on the threads at the back to help pull through. Small thing doesn't sound too healthy there. That's coming through great game. Getting nothing. So I'm just making sure that this seam line stays lined up with that edge off my foot that make sure it's stay nice and flat as you go throw. Pull it from the back. If needs be, remove the pence I should go. My body is about to run out soon, so hopefully it will let me finish this cough before the doors hate it when that happens again. When you get to this and make sure that is laying flat and that it's not curved on now, Ralph, it's on. I'm leave him a needle in there and pivot in U confined because of the seam allowance inside, it gets stuck in the machine, so I'm just gonna do each line separately. So the little Backstedt So that's nice. Neat line on its enclosed the seam on the inside as well, So I'm just going to do the other edge is now. So start here. This time I'm gonna line off the edge of the fabric with this side of my seven foot. Here's my bobbing going toe last. I'm going to go over the top edge on the final edge. I know sewing machine that my Bobby and running out keeps beeping at me to snip off the threats. That's it. The cough is now attached to the sleeve on and the bit where it's overhanging there, so that is where I'll attach my bottom on. Then the couple close like that, so the next step is attaching the sleeve to the top itself. What I've already done, but I'll just show you on the machine now is so my gathering stitches again over the head of the sleeve. What you'll notice is there are three sets of Nagy's on the back of the sleeve. You've got one notch there. You've got notch in the center, which is there and on the front. You've got to, Naci said. There's one there and one there. So all of dawn is. Put my stitch line onto the longest length again, which is five on, and I have stitched from the first notch. Just over half a centimetre have stitched that all the way around and you'll see you. You'll feel it gathering as you are doing it. But that's fine until I get to the first off the second notches there, and then I will use those threads to gather the sleeve to set the sleeve and inside the top . Okay, so head back over to the table and I'll show you how to do that. 9. How to Sew a Blouse Part 8 - Setting the Sleeves: least way you should have a coughed sleeve. So in this next video, what I'm going to do is show you how to set the sleeve in the arm hole off the blouse. Andan that will finished the sleeve. So do what, John, I'll show you exactly how to do that. And then I'll see you in the next video. Okay, So what I'm gonna do now is at pin the sleeve in the arm hole off the blouse so that I can get that sone. So what I've got here is the blouse with the wrong side off the fabric facing up towards May on this is the front off the blouse. So what I will have is to not cheese there, Andi, because that's the front. And one notch on the back at what I'm then going to do is put the sleeve inside the top with the right side of the fabric, facing hope. So that's going to go inside into the arm hole. And I'm gonna pin it by first of all, matching up the side seams. So there's the side seam of the sleeve on the side, seam off the top. So matchup. Those seem lines put in a pen again. It's easy if you put the pens on the inside because that's where you'll be so in. Well, I'm then going to do is much the center notch. I put a pin in the centre notch because you can lose it when you start to add in the gathers, and I'm going to match that up with the top shoulder seam line. Then what I'm gonna do is much the not choose at the bottom. So that's the to not cheese that much together on the same on the other side. What them want to dio is make the sleeve so that it's the same size as the arm hole by either pulling the threads to make that gathering stitch tighter or by loosening them off. But I can see here you can see it looks like my sleeve has gathered a little bit too much to fit into that armholes. I'm going to stretch it out a little bit, actually. No, it isn't. It needs gathering up a bit more, so I'm going to start with this one and pull the top threat. There you go. Now it fits. Someone put some pins in there quite a few pens and to keep in place. I'm gonna do the same on the other side. So let's have a look. What needs to happen with that it's just pulled in. Actually needs to come out of Tibet a little bit more. I would get repent, not in place. Setting a sleeve can get quiet federally and quite frustrating at first book. Just don't get too hung up on it. I don't get too hung up on making sure my gathers are really even all the way around a sleeve because nobody's going to notice. That doesn't have to be perfect. Okay, Okay. So you can see that now. The sleeve fits perfectly all the way around that arm hole. So what I'm going to do is take over to the sewing machine on just so the seam allowance all the way around your head, over to the machine. The casing is going to So the arm hole on the sleeve together, Bassam in the semen I went. It's a one cent to me to see him allowance on Daz before the easiest method is to sew on the inside off theme sleeve. It just makes it easier to guide through so machine. So I'm gonna start with the back stick I'm just so that in place all my dreams air common All my dreams are dreams coming true, huh? I'm just gonna have a quick check over to make sure there are no pocus. Obviously, if you've got porkers in the sleeve, that's okay, cause you've got the gathers. But what, you're looking to make sure there's that you haven't got any off the actual allows itself that pocket into a seam line. I thought, um, yes, so you can see there. I have got one there where the actual Blau was itself has pocket into that seem line. So all I'm going to do is on pick a couple of stitches around that area and re so it Well, just check, cause I haven't got any of the that's it. So I'll sort that poker out on. Then all I will do, Then to finish the sleeve is press the seam allowance and then I'm just going to run that seam allowance through my over locker, so we'll get that done in just a second. Okay, So final bit on these sleeves, then, is to overlook that seam allowances. Air said before, If you've not gotten over locket, don't worry. You can refuse a zigzag stitch on standard machine. Do double check before you over lock that you haven't got any of those pesky pockets because if you have, wouldn't have over locked their more difficult to get rid off and then before you've over locked. So I'm just doing a thorough check of the seems any that have pocket just on pick them on and just re stretch that area and don't want it too much. If you have got porkers, it keeps those seem ripper companies in business. Okay, so plus creaming off. Very minimal here because it's only really narrow seam. Anyway, at one centimeters, I love my baby Lock over lock. It don't have to make any adjustments to eat it all on the different fabric types. It just knows exactly what to do. Just look at that there. How it knows. I don't know what it does. Okay, so that is the inside sleeve seam allowance show you. So this sleeve on the inside, Although it's not a French, see, it's very nicely finished with the over locker. So I'll just repeat that on the other sleeve. And that is it. Until we get to do in the bullet hole in the bottom, the sleeves are don't you should be very pleased with yourself as a my yeah to finishing those sleeves. I think the sleeves of the most not necessarily difficult, but the most time consuming bet of this blouse, because there's just so many steps to it. If it's your first time, if so, being a sleeve with a cough than the Big Wild all I'm up. If I'm being absolutely honest, have not sown that money, coughed sleeves myself. I'm I could probably count on one hand the number of times that have done it. So do keep practicing. It becomes easier every time, and I'm sure you'll agree it's worth it. This the sleeve on this blouse is really lovely. I love how looser is on how baggy heirs, but then how it gathers around the cough. So it just gives it that lovely shape. Um, so, yeah, definitely worth it. So all that's left on this blouse, then, is the color. So the next thing that we're going to be doing is adding the collar stand on the collar and , of course, the lovely bow that you can at all remove. And then it will just be to hemp. And then that's it will be done other than the buttonholes and buttons, actually a nearly forgotten about those have no even picked my boat. And yet eso not quite sure what I'm going to go for, whether I'll go for a black Borten to contrast with the black or whether I'll go for Why tour even a brown? Not too sure yet. I need to get myself down to the bottom shop and find those soon. Okay, so I'll see you over in the next video, where we'll look at so in this color by 10. How to Sew a Blouse Part 9 - Constructing the Collar: least way now the sleeves Airil done. We're going to move on to the color now. The collar is a traditional blouse tack color, which is on a collar stand. You got the collar stand there on the color that you attached to that I'm again. It's what, one of the trickiest parts off the blouse, along with the sleeves. Eso would recommend watching the videos all the way through until you've got the knack of that on. Give it a go yourself, but it's not too difficult. It's just fiddly and takes a little bit of getting your head around. So do what time I'll show you exactly how to do it. If you've got any questions at all, just ask them in the comments below. So we're moving onto the collar now. Not far off finished on this on this blouse. So what I've got here is my two color PCs. So you'll see one side is just the fabric on the other side have added interfacing to give it that extra stability. What I've also dawn is stay stitched like we did in the very first video. I stay stitched from on the inside of the collar from the edge to the center that way from the edge to the center that way. And then what I'm doing to prepare this for so in is put pins and already so where I'm going to be stitching is along thes shortages there, and I'm gonna be stitching all the way along the biggest curve. So not the inside better isn't being stitched yet. Two sides are Jews on all the way along that big curve. So I'm gonna head over to the machine and I'll get that. So So I'm just gonna say the seam elements on the column now. So starting on the shore tagine and so in a one cent to me to see him allowance when I get to the edge that I'm gonna leave my needling so that I can just pivot it around I need to go see their have just gone over the one sent to me tow line. So we just need to do one more sick try again. Again. All my dreams air common All my dreams are dreams coming true. So let's just get these seems on Cornish trimmed. What I'm going to start is just trim the short eh? Geez, Andi, trim the corner self along that long curve from the corner on the other short side And then what I'm gonna do is caught little notches which a little triangles out in, um, along that curve c all my dreams air common All my dreams are dreams coming true Okay, So you can see, of course, at the little triangles, tiny triangles all the way around While now do we turn this collar right side out? Yeah, I'm gonna use my Bodkin just to push those corners. I'll get that taken over to the iron and get it pressed to The next step is to attach the color toothy collar stand eso What I've done first of all, is marked with Centrepoint off each one just by folding in half, Um, putting a pin in the center So he is my color That we've stitched on here is the one off the color stuns. So what you've got is the one stitched side off the collar. So the inside of the collar you're going to place the collar stand with the caved the end, a curved edge which has got the rounded corner. You're gonna pin that in place, so I'll start with that center pin. Now you do have not cheese. So you've got notch there and a notch there. So line those up and you've got a notch along here somewhere. Where is it? Notched their on and there All my dreams were common. All my dreams are dreams coming true. He was gonna stitch this at the one son to Meteo Seam allowance back. - Okay , that's That's the first side stitched. I'm just gonna head back over to the table and get the second part pinned ready for stitching for the second part too. So in the color stand is to attach the other colors done. So what I've got here is the color and colistin that I've already attached are laid down on the table with the wrong side of the collar stand facing down. Which means the right side is facing often there that the colors sewn on top. What I'm now going to do is some which that color in between the other collar stand. So putting this right side facing down, I'm just going to do the same as I did before Andi. Find my little nachos. Get those lined up and get their ends lined up a swell Let's just get the grand. So I'm gonna carry on pending as I did before, all the way along there, somebody in that color inside. And then I'm gonna take it back over to the sewing machine. And so again, at a one cent to me Two seam allowance. But I'm going to. So those short ends and along all the way along finish it that will the short end. So that will enclose it all the way inside. Soldiers head off back to the seven machine. So So their second collar stand. So as a say, I'm starting on the small ledge and going around that curve. And it's a one cent to meteo seem allowing us just gonna leave my needle and and pivots slightly isn't going well. Not Coop. All my dreams air common. All my dreams are dreams coming true. Okay, so just trying see him out? I think so. What you can see then when you pull that out, is that the color is now attached to the callous stand. So I just need to press it. And then what I'll be doing is attaching the called Stand to the blows. Okay, so here's the color on the color stand. Haven't pressed it yet because what I just wanted to show you is I'm gonna do not jean again just to make that a cleaner curve. When I do press it, we're going to turn it back with the wrong side out and then all I'm gonna dio iss All my dreams air common all my dreams are dreams coming true. That should press much cleaner now so I'll get that I end at that seem set nice and cleanly on. Then I'll show you what we do next. 11. How to Sew a Blouse Part 10 - Attaching the Collar: okay, you've got collar attached to a call stand. So let's move on to how you attach that to the blouse itself. Now, I do have a confession to make on this step. I was that engrossed and how to attach the color to the blouse. And I did forget to follow the step to add the little tab at the back to run the both through. I have showed you afterwards, however, I did that on after the event, but if you were going to do it the proper way, you would add it. As you are attaching the collar stand to the blouse so that you can fully enclosed the seam allowances within one another. So have a read off the instructions in the where lemonade pattern. If you want to do it properly, if you're not too fussed about making a little bit of a mistake like I certainly am not, then you can just carry on and follow what I do. I'll see you soon, okay, so the next step is to pin your collar and collar, stand onto the neck line off the blouse. So what I've got here is the blouse with the right side of the fabric facing off, and I've got my color and color stand with the right side of the collar stand facing down. But it is the side that's extended. So not not the side that you've folded over cause that's gonna be putting onto the inside of the blouse. It's the side with the longer edge. I'm now one thing that I'm kind of working out is a go because it doesn't really explain this. On the pattern is how to line up the collar Stan to the neck edge because there doesn't appear to be any not choose on the neck edge off the pattern piece s o. What I think that I need to do would have had a look at it is line or so the edge off the top lines up with the edge off the color. So you will have a slight overhang of this curved edge here on the collar stand. So that is the first edge. And then what we'll do is pin all the way along again, put plenty of pins and because you're putting together two curved allergies which kind of go in opposite directions, so you need plenty pens to keep it in place. And then what I've done is I've pinned it all the way along. So on the other side. So on this side, you you're better the color stunned. That extends out a little bit further because that's where the buttons will go. But again have lined up. So the collar lines up with the edge off the blouse. Hopefully, that's the right way to do it, but I'll soon find out. Okay, so I'm gonna head over to the sewing machine. Now, then, Andi show you how to sew that in place. So what I'm going to do now is stitch the collar in place. So I'm doing a one son to me. Two seam allowance against on Lined up there to the one centimeter, as I'm so I mean, I just want Teoh ensure that this folded edge of the color Stanton doesn't get caught up in the statue. All my dreams air common all my dreams are dreams coming true. Okay, so it's gonna have a quick check over now to make sure that I haven't got any pastie. Booker's really do need to watch how I say that. And I have got a couple of spotted there. Actually, we'll show you in a second. What they look like that. So you can see there. The fabric has got quarter. So what I'm gonna need to dio is one stitch on Peck. Just that little section The seem line and re so it. So I can see what's happened there on the inside. The fabric has just got caught up in the step climb. So I'm just gonna find my scene. Didn't just pulling it back. I'm picking just that bit stitch in, pulling it down until I've got enough on Picked deliberated whether to include this in the video or not. But I think sometimes it's good to see when things don't quite go right, and then you don't feel like it's just you and it goes wrong. Unless it's just me. Of course. Okay, so I'm just going to least itch that bit off the sea, make sure it's flat. Okay, that's better. That's gone. I did notice a pocket on the other side, so I'm just going to sort that out. I won't make you sit through and watch me painfully on picking something again, so I'll just get those that area there on picked and re sewn on. Then I'll head back over to the table. Okay, so the next bit is to stitch while pen the order side of the collis done down. So that encloses that role. Reg, what have dawn is just lightly pressed that seam allowance so that the seam allowances plate is facing pointing upwards towards the collar. So what I'm now going to do is just like we did with the cough. I'm going to pin it so that this folded edge just covers over that stitch line. I'm gonna put the pens on this side here. All my dreams air common All my dreams are dreams coming true. So I pinged ruling all the way along there Now on have ensured that on this inside here, that folded edge is covering the stitch line. I'm I'm going to just clip off that little corner there just to make sure these ends are nice and tidy as well. I clicked that off before I sew it. And then what? I'm gonna dio flip this over. I'm going to do the stitch line on day. I'm going to go slightly abort the seem line just to make sure that edge of the fabric is caught in. If you were doing it, really as it Sure you would do what's called stitch in the ditch where you stitch in that same line. And but I always find that thief fabric doesn't quite catch on the other side. So for may, I'm just gonna stitch slightly upwards on that seem line just to help make sure that that does get caught. So I'll just head back over to the sewing machine, and I'll get that done. Okay, So I'm gonna So, as I said before, slightly above the seam allowance here eso to ensure that I'm keeping straight at What I'm doing is I'm lining up that seam allowance. I'm just with that side off the Sabine foot on. And that's what I'll keep my eye on to make sure I'm serving straight All my dreams air common all my dreams are dreams coming true, huh? Okay, So I'm just going to take a quick look to make sure I've got no major issues. Let's just have a look on the inside to make sure that's court all the way along, which it has. Okay, So I'm going to give it a final press. Um, and then what I'm gonna do? In fact, I'll do that. Now, I'm just gonna snip that little corner off on, um, this tap that extends out on. I just need to top stitch along the bottom edge of that There they told us so I'm just going to give that a press, and then we'll move on to the next section. 12. How to Sew a Blouse Part 11 - The Rolled Hem: least way you have a call it? Yeah, that next bit is the ham eso. What I am doing on this blouse is quite a narrow hand rolled ham. If you have got a fancy 40 for your sewing machine, that doesn't rolled him for you, then feel free to use that. I haven't got one, but it is super simple to do by hand anyway. So carry on watching the video. I'll show you exactly how I do that. If you're Do you know how to do it, then feel free to skip. Okay, so the next step is to do the hand now the blows, because it's quite lightweight and drapey fabric, and it's a narrow hem. I'm just doing a rolled ham, but I don't have a fancy rolled him foot from a sewing machine, so I'm just rolling it by hand. It's not anything, no special technique, really. It's just rolling the fabric over twice and then put in plenty of pens. And so I've already started there. But I'll just carry on to show you what I'm doing. So I'm just folding over it wants, and then again, and then I'm just putting a couple of pens and heavy shackles Used to hold me down Now my feet don't even wreaking the ground Just like a prisoner wedding Santon's and all my dreams are coming true And that old to you has changed my former point of view Just like a butter live guy New ways All my dreams air common All my dreams are humming all dreams coming through Okay, that's it. So I'll take that over toothy sewing machine. Now on. I'll stick that down. Okay, so I'm gonna so this at hem in place and going to make my stitch land slightly longer at 2.4. Find my foot pedal. Andi, I'm gonna remove the Penza. So But I'm so being with the wrong side of the fabric facing up on I'm just going toe edge stitch along the edge off the hand again. Pull the threads at the back as you first start sewing to help feed it through Do a back stitch. Now, I was just so we just hold it as flattish account with your fingers because it's rolled on because it's going round curves. Sometimes it can kick out a little bit, so just hold it flatters you can, but don't worry about too much heavy shackles Used to hold me down Now my feet don't even wreaking the ground just like a prisoner wedding. Santon's and all my dreams are coming true, and that old to you has changed my former point of view, just like a butter live guy. New Ways, All my dreams air common All my dreams are humming all dreams. So what I will do as always, just go over and check that there's no poker's and then it's really important to press seem because otherwise it can look a little bit roly. I know it's a rolled him, but you don't want it to look like that on the outside. Eso what I'm I'll do it looking looking pretty good, that actually looking pretty flat. And but I will press it with the iron just to set it in. Think that may have been yet. There's just want poker there, so I'll just unpick that and so that tiny bit again, but within that, that's that's good. We'll get that poker sorted out, and I'll get it pressed 13. How to Sew a Blouse Part 12a - The Bow: least way now Want to my favorite better the blithe Bo. I really do think that this is what makes this blow was really special on I think what I'm going to even do because the bow is removable, I'm perhaps going to make one in gray or in black or even both s so I can make this multi changeable as well. Eso pretty pretty simple to do this. What will say is the pattern instructions told you to add interfacing to one of the pieces of fabric for the bow. I didn't do that because I'm using Tana Lawn, which although it drapes beautifully Um, it is quiet, crisp, So I didn't think that there was the need to add any interfacing. So it's entirely up to you if you want to. Soft abo don't have to be interfacing if you want it quiet, stiff, then make sure you add to that because I haven't so I'll see you soon. Okay, so now I'm going to get the bow pinned together Ready for serving Now The pattern did tell you to place the bow on a folded edge of fabrics that you'd have one continuous long piece off fabric per side. However, I didn't have enough fabric left because I only had two meters of fabric and not 2.2 that it says that you need So all that dead is caught for smaller PC's on. Then I've stitched to together with a center seam allowance there. So what I'm gonna dio is get these pinned together. You want to make sure first of all, that you've got the fabrics with the right ends together, so just check on the points, make sure they match up. They dio something going to start in the CenterPoint. So what I've got is one off the fabric PC's with the right side of the fabric facing up, and I've got that center seam allowance there. I'm going to place the other one with the right side of the fabric facing down, matching up the seam allowances. I'm gonna put a couple pens. And now what I will be doing is leaving a gap there off 2 to 3 Angie's because I'll use that to tune the bow right side out once of stitched it now. It was also say, on the pattern to interface one of the both PCs, but I've chosen not to do that one because I didn't have enough it into facing left in my stash to amuse in liberty of Linda turn along which although it drew, it does drape. Really? Wow, it is quite Crispus Well, so I don't think it needs interfacing heavy shackles Used to hold me down Now my feet don't even wreaking the ground Just like a prisoner wedding Santon's and all my dreams are coming true And that old to you Love has changed my former point of view Just like a butter live new ways All my dreams are common All my dreams are head over to the very machine I'm gonna so that at one centimeter seam allowance But remembering to leave that gap in the middle So many times I've forgot to leave the gap And come to turn it right side out And you can't eso out Head over to the machine 14. How to Sew a Blouse Part 12b - The Bow Cont'd: okay, We're gonna get the bow stitched. So I'm starting where the pin is at the right hand side of the gap that have left a There's the center. He is the pen. So I'm going to start so there. As I said before, say one sent to me Two seam allowance heavy shackles used to hold me down Now my feet don't even wreaking ground Just like a prisoner Wet sand dunes and all my dreams are coming true And that old to you Love has changed my former point. Okay, so pro change the center point again now So we need to remember to leave the gap. So we need to stop where this or the Penis do a backstage So that stretched all the way along. What I'm going to do is trim that seam allowance to half its width all the way along. But I'm not going to trim the area where I've left the gap because I will need to be folding the sea. Malone's in on that once have tuned in the right side out, which I'll show you just over back at the table. There's gonna trim the seam allowance to half its with all the way around. I'm also snip off the corners just to make that more pointy when I turn it right side out. So let's go back over to the table. Okay? So I'm gonna trim the seam allowance. I have put two pens in where the gap is just to remind me not to trend those as I'm in the flow I am. So I'm going to start by snipping off this corner trim along the Okay , So I got to where my first penniston just gonna snip along That been snapped that way so that it leaves that bit of the seam allowance bigger and then do the same That to you has changed my former point of view Just like a butter live guy. New ways All my dreams air common All my dreams are humming All my dreams are coming true I think that's so I'm going to remove the pens now Andi, turn it right side out. Where do these threats to? You has changed my former point of view Just like a butter live guy New ways All my dreams air common All my dreams are humming All my dreams are coming true in the case. And now I'm gonna use my Bodkin just to push out those corners. I'm gonna find that sent a gap, just that get right into the points, and then I'm gonna do the same on the other side. Okay, so what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna press this on, and what you need to do is make sure that seems are nice and flat, so I just roll them a little bit as ago and press them roll impress. When you get to the center gap that's left open, you just want to ensure that the seam allowances folded in on the top and the bottom and press over it because that will Then keep that those seam allowance sees Preston on the inside. And then what we'll do is we'll top stick all the way around the bow and that will close that gap as your top stitching as well. So I'm going to go and get this island, and then I will come back on and show you how to do the top stitch. Okay, so I'm just top step chine the bow just to make sure that gap has closed that I left in the center, but also just to give it a nice, neat finish have already done so far around. So I'll just show you this last little bit. I am. So I, um, lining off the edge off the berg with that bit off my sewing 40 just to make sure that I keep a straight line. All my dreams air common all my dreams are humming on dreams coming all the way around That is my bow complete. So final step on this blouse is to add the little loop to secure the bow in place on the back of the blouse. I should have actually done that whilst I was so in the collar stand on. But I was that engrossed and so in the color I totally forgot. But I'm just going to add a little bit of elastic anyway instead, which will be fine. But it's going to be Commodore by the color anyway, So I'm not too fussed about that. So our head back over to the table and show you how I do that. And then the final thing is so being the buttons or snaps that I'm using in my case. Okay, So I'm just going Teoh do their little bit that I forgot, which has a little tab to hold the bow in place at the back of the collar. I would recommend referring to the pattern instructions, because it will be much neater if you do it the way that you're supposed to do, because you wouldn't close it inside this collar stand. And But I can't be bothered with on picking everything. So I am just going to make do with a little bit off elastic. So all of God's is a little piece off last week. Let's just focus in on that a little piece of elastic that I'm just gonna fold over on the two ends. I've put a pen in the center point off the backs of our measured for the center point and put up in there just so I know where it is, and then I am going to place it there, stick a pin in. So all I'm going to do is do a line of stitching that, and then I will fold it under on the other side, unjust. Do a line of stepped in there and then what I'll do is pass the bow through there. So when you using the burger, it just keeps it in place. So I'm just gonna head back to the sewing machine to do that, and then I will show you the last step which is adding the closures. 15. How to Sew a Blouse Part 13 - Closures and Goodbye: finished. So in this next video, I'm going to show you how I add my closures. Now the pattern shows you how to do buttonholes on buttons. I've actually decided to use plastic snaps rather than buttons for a couple of reasons. One, the fabric is quite busy and quiet, loud. So I just wanted something really simple because if it was ah, fancy botnet just get lost on this fabric anyway. Secondly, I need this blouse to go out and a couple of hours on I'm running a bit short on time, so I haven't really got the time to So the born holes And then So each individual born on a swell, So it's just quicker and easier. I find if you're working on a project where you can get away with a simple plastic snap, S o do watch on. If you're happy to add snaps, a swell. If it is that you are looking to eso buttons and buttonholes, just make sure you transferred all the markings from the pattern unusual sewing machine to add the buttonholes on. Then eso on the buttons as well. There's loads off videos there are are available on YouTube about seven buttonholes and adding buttons. And I do intend on doing another version of this blouse where I am going to do buttons and buttonholes so I will link that video once once I've done that on. But do what? John, anyway, even if you don't intend to. So with Snaps, because it might give you some ideas for some future product projects because they really are super quick and easy to do. Okay, so the final step is to at the closures now, rather than doing buttonholes and buttons, I've decided that I'm going to add plastic snaps because the fabric is quite busy. There's a lot going on, so I don't really want fancy buttons because it just get lost. Andi find thes a lot easier. Andi quicker down, serving and buttonholes and buttons. Eso That's what I'm going to go with. So what? You need tools wise for the U need. Obviously, the plastic snaps you need a tool again, minus bi primped. To put the snaps in place and you need a lodge pin, I'm to help to ps the holes, so the way that these plastic snaps work is you've got the round plastic you've got a mail piece? Um, which has got a bet. Literal sticks out a little bit. I'm not sure how clearly you can see that on the camera, but you've got a back in peace where a bit sticks out and you've got a female piece which is backing peace. That's got a hole, that silken inwards. So I'm all I do. First of all is find use the patent to find where my first buttonhole it's gonna go. Obviously I take a centimeter off the top because that's the seam allowance. So that is where my facebook hard those I used the needle to make a small hole on. Then this is the piece that is going to go over the top. And so where your buttonholes would normally go. If you were doing it the traditional way at this piece because it's got the tab on, it's got the long tab. So that's going to set over the top. So what you do there is you put the first round plastic piece through that hole and then you get a male back. Put that on the back there. I'm gonna get your pliers. You'll see what the players you've got a round, wide plastic bit on a clear. I'm still the company. Bet on what you want to do is place the players. So the round side sits in that White Corp. And then the back just squeezes the silicone, better squeezes onto the back, and then you just need to apply some pressure. And then that was in place. And then what you want to do on the corresponding side, do the same measure where the hole is going to pay. But then this time you want the round black plastic piece with the round soft, that smooth edge facing on the wrong side of the blouse. So the point is sticking. Or then you want to get a female back, put that on the top and then do the same again. So used the pliers. The white plastic court goes on the round selling Coney Bet, goes on the back and apply some pressure, and then they will close in place. Now, look, that sound. Okay, So I'm gonna carry on doing that along the front of the blouse measured on the pattern piece. How far apart the polls are. They are eight centimeters. See that they're eight centimeters between holes. So all I will do is measure eight centimeters down from the center off the one that just put in measure eight centimeters down, which is there. Then I repeat the process of First of all, I use my pen to make the whole get my round, rusted piece can push that through. I'm gonna get mine mail back, place that on the spike and use the pli ISS to secure in place okay, and then do the same. But the female side said measure down eight centimeters the whole this time smooth round judge is on the wrong side of the blouse. My female side and secure in place. I said Now I have got to Okay, so I'll just carry on with that away down on the front of the blouse on then I will also add snaps to the coughs said they fasten that and I will also add a I think a lot of snap or a might out there who can. I am going to see how feel oneself finish them onto the Sindical so I'll carry on with that and then we'll show you when I've finished All my dreams are common All my dreams are humming on dreams that fit It's all don't have a beautiful simona blouse And if you're anything like me and you had you've already got another five lined up Ready to hit that so in machine on I do hope you've enjoyed these lessons and I do hope that they have helped you out as well. I am a self taught. So what is you will have seen from some of my previous videos. So it may be that there are better ways of doing things. But what I've shown you today is what works for me. And I've ended up with a beautiful blouse at the end of it s o do let me know how you've got on. If you've got any questions at all, just ask them in the comments And also if you've loved it and you really enjoyed it and it has helped you then I'd really love it If you leave me a comment on Do you subscribe on? Give me a thumbs up and I'll see you soon On another project Magic Rainbow is listen just like a child live in Wonderland All my dreams are coming true Heavy shackles used to hold me down Now my feet don't even reaching the ground Just