Learn Basic Cabinetmaking by building an Access Panel | Michael S. | Skillshare

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Learn Basic Cabinetmaking by building an Access Panel

teacher avatar Michael S.

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

18 Lessons (49m)
    • 1. Intro

      1:25
    • 2. Chapter 1 Design and measurements

      1:19
    • 3. Chapter 2 Evaluating Lumber and Rough Dimensioning

      6:41
    • 4. Chapter 3 The Milling Process

      1:07
    • 5. Chapter 4 Removing Snipe

      1:37
    • 6. Chapter 5 Measuring and Cutting Parts for Face Frame and Door

      3:40
    • 7. Chapter 6 Dry Fitting the Face Frame

      0:49
    • 8. Chapter 7 Cutting Pocket Holes in the Rails

      0:47
    • 9. Chapter 8 Assembling the Face Frame

      3:32
    • 10. Chapter 9 Sanding the Face Frame

      1:13
    • 11. Chapter 10 Cutting the Grooves for the Center Panel

      5:58
    • 12. 11 Cutting the Stub Tenons

      5:05
    • 13. Chapter 12 Cutting the Door Panel

      0:22
    • 14. Chapter 13 Dry Fitting the Door

      1:03
    • 15. Chapter 14 Gluing up the Door

      4:17
    • 16. Chapter 15 Filling and Sanding

      4:48
    • 17. Chapter 16 Drilling Holes for the Cup Hinges

      3:02
    • 18. Chapter 17 Attaching the Door to the Face Frame

      2:28
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About This Class

The goal of this course is to teach the basics of cabinet making by building an access panel. You will learn how to build a face frame, door construction and how to attach the door to a face frame.

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Michael S.

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Hello, I'm Michael.

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Transcripts

1. Intro : In this course, you're going to learn the basics of cabinet making by building a very simple door and cabinet phase frame. For me, this is going to be a manifold cover, but everything seeing here, this is a strong foundation. You always want to generally be your face frame first and then build your caucus based on a face frame. So we're not going to be doing the caucus in this video. We will be doing the face frame and a door. And you could use this, you can use your imagination, you can use it as a access for plumbing piping or a manifold in my case. And in future videos we will expand on that. But the techniques that you learn hair, we'll bring you to a point where you'll be able to bill mostly any type of cabinet. So come along and less builders. 2. Chapter 1 Design and measurements : In this section we're going to start with the design. I designed the manifold in CAD, starting with the face frame, I will provide you with a PDF with all the measurements on it. But here I'm just showing you the 3D model that I created as part of my design process is very important. Potassium designing CAD so that you're not wasteful. You figure everything out in CAD, and then you're able to work more efficiently and more accurately when you go to produce the actual product. I use a quarter-inch join R3 for my tenants. I generally put a domino to reinforce that joint, sorry. But you can use 38 what half NGV choose two, you will just have to make an adjustment but a tendon and for the group or better yet, dick, to the techniques that I use in this video, because I think is plenty strong enough. 3. Chapter 2 Evaluating Lumber and Rough Dimensioning : Starting with a rough piece of lumber from the meal. Like this. The first thing I'm gonna do is cut it to a manageable length. This case. This was a little bit over 48 inches long. And that should be long enough for my longest length, which would be body styles on the face rain, and also the styles on the doors is going to be a bit long also. So one naught, I want to make sure I have enough length for the sake of snipe, anything like that. So you start off with a little bit longer than what you actually need. You also going to want to rip the boards down to a rough width. You want it to be more than what you need. I think I want to make these today about my final about two inches, I normally do a internet out by Mona made these two inches, was toying around with other idea. So as you can see right here, I have a roughly 3.5. It could have been three inches. That would work as well to account for Millan. And I never try to get to an exact dimension in one troy. And I will explain that later on when we get to the table. So same thing would mill in. I worked my way down, especially if you don't have a shop that has control over humidity and temperature, you, you want to work down gradually to your final dimension. If you try to go from one dimension to another dimension quickly, you and are problems with walked in twist and so forth. So the other thing I want to do, starting from the initial width and wanted to identify any COP or twists. And as I come across them, I want to notate them on the board. So I know what I'm dealing with when I go to the joinder, I use a band saw to rough rip the boards. As you can see, these has been rough ripped. The reason why I use a band saw over the table saw is these boards are not straight, they're not flat. And also even though there was kiln drying, still have tension in them. And we tension it can open up violently or we can close violently on itself and do that on a table saw can be dangerous. So the surface tool that I like to use to do this safely is a bandsaw. Most lumber yards. So we'll street line rip one edge where you use that edge against defense. Yeah. I'm measuring the board to cut it in half to get my rough with. Notice my technique. Always keep both hands above the table and no way of ends and integers or at all time. Notice my one arm is against defense and I'm using my fingers to keep the ball up against events. And when I get close to the blade, I used a push stick. Perfect example of what could happen if that was my fingers, I would have lost it. I use a push stick declare board, and once I'm finished and I turn off the machine, I use a scrap piece of board to stop the bleeding. After a rough ribbon. I will go over the board again and try to identify certain characteristics. On a flat surface, I would identify any twists and mock where it's making contact. All of this is going to help me when I go to the joinder. So I'll go through and do the same thing with all of them. Just as before, our identify the cup. You can use any flat object to identify cup. So you want to do that. And when you identify it, I mostly like or put it on the ends because those are not going to be removed anytime soon in this process. So I can there will still be there. The reason why you want to identify the cup? I want to have both edges on the board making contact on a joint. So I wanted to crown up an upside down. Also, another helpful thing is to identify green direction. And you want to feed it in the appropriate green direction. So in this one here you can see the green is going this way. So this boy needs to be lying down because the car is going to be cutting this way. So it will be cutting with degree. And so this will be going this way. And put an arrow there so I know it doesn't feed direction. I want to have very important. Now when I go to use the, the thickness or the planar is going to be the opposite, is going to flip because the latest is turning opposite way. And so I'll turn it this way and this will be the phi direction when a glowing Judah planar. But for a joint or this is going to be the feed direction. 4. Chapter 3 The Milling Process : Generally speaking, it is a bad idea to wear loose clothing around a joint or in this case, I'm able to get away with this because the minimax join a planar is a very tall machine. So my shirt is hang in well below the table. Today's no chance of my shirt permanent contact with the blade. After jointing one face and one edge, I proceeded to the planar two plane the other side parallel but not to final dimension. Then I proceed to the table saw to rip the final edge again not to final dimension. Repeating this process over the course of a couple of days would help to prevent the boards from warping and twisting. To remove any saw marks are used the planar for the final 32 seconds of an inch on each edge. 5. Chapter 4 Removing Snipe : Before cutting boards the lens identify and remove all snack. Snipe is a phenomenon that is caused by the joint and the planer at the beginning and at the end of a cut. Time is difficult to see on lighter boards. But if you use your fingers you can feel where the joint cut a little bit deeper at the beginning and a little bit deeper at the end. You can see me using my fingers if needle for the snipe and marking for it, then I will cut it at a miter saw. Remember we cut the boards longer than we needed. This was so we can remove the snipe and still have enough length to get the pieces that we needed for our project. Note my use of a clamp to hold water into place. I also recommend holding onto something away from the blade with your free hand to avoid any chance of you bringing your hand in contact with the blade. Okay. 6. Chapter 5 Measuring and Cutting Parts for Face Frame and Door : After you have removed all of this night, you're gonna mark and measure for each piece that you need each length one time and use a stub blood so that you can cut every additional piece that you need that is of that same length. Doing this with us. Sure. That your face frame and your door will come together. Always check your first piece to verify that your SWOT is set at 0. Hello. Okay. 7. Chapter 6 Dry Fitting the Face Frame : After Clinton all my pieces, I could be seen hair dry assembling my face frame with the good side facing up with mock Boyd Craig join R3, I'm about to do in the next step and making sure that it is no defects on the good side. If there's any defects on the board, I will flip it to the other side and remark it. 8. Chapter 7 Cutting Pocket Holes in the Rails : Using a pocket hole, jig drill holes in the rails of the face frame. It doesn't have to be an expensive one. I just format. It can be one of the simpler jigs for a 100 and something dollars. I think the well-worth their price. You can do a lot of woodworking using this type of joining. 9. Chapter 8 Assembling the Face Frame : Now we have reached a point where we could assemble the face frame. I like to use glue along with the pocket whole screwed. The glue is not a 100 percent necessary, but I like using it, believe it or not, even though be using in green to face green join R3 is still has some strength as some value to the strength of the joint. And also you're going to need some way of clamping it flat. I'm using clamps that is integrated into my bench. But Craig also sell clamps that you can use without a bench. Not only one other company sells similar clamps. You're going to have to move up rather Bruce belief and you have to make sure everything is aligned. You can see where he was a piece of wood and a mallet to knock stuff into place. And then you're screwed together. In this demonstration, I'm actually putting it together. I know wrong order and I'm doing that intentionally because I wanted you to have a clear view of what I was doing. But typically, you will start off with one style and put it in the two rails. Dan, you will install the final style. I also go back and clean up any extra blue. Notice I have some water, I have some warm water and a rag. You do want to ring direct thoroughly. You don't want it soak in with. You just wanted a little bit down. And after you have assemble it, you want to go back and verify that everything is squared. You can verify that the base frame is by using an actual square, all by measuring from corner to corner and verifying that the measurements are the same from corner to corner. I like to use both. You can use one or the other. 10. Chapter 9 Sanding the Face Frame : Now for our favorite part of woodworking, sanding, depending on how well we did with our clamping of the joints for the face frame, we will start with about a 100 grit and work our way up to a 120 grit, sanding the entire face of the face room. If you have slight misalignment, your pardon me? I have to start with as low as 60 grit sandpaper. I don't want you to try this data imperfection by concentrating at that particular area. Only. You weren't a fan out like you see me doing here. You want to find out and do it over a large area. So days no obvious step between from one area to another. So that's called blending or fairing. If you don't have ascending system that incorporates dust collection, please use a respirator. 11. Chapter 10 Cutting the Grooves for the Center Panel : At this point of the project, we're going to start working on the door. You're going to start by gathering all the pieces, dials and rails, and put a pause in pieces together and market with a cabinet maker's triangle to keep track of them. Then also, you're going to mark where the center groove is going to be located. These are does visual marks to keep you on track so you don't make silly mistakes, just me, they easy to make and also I tend to put arrows. You want to give yourself as many opportunities to get it right. Trust me, especially for a beginner, is easy to get it wrong. And I put two sides that are the same, or putting a groove in the wrong place on the wrong side. I use a little technique with my finger. It takes practice to develop that skill that allows you to find the center of a board. This project is a good opportunity for you to practice that skill. I'm going to change a blade on my soul right now I have a multipurpose blade. It does. It's good for both cross-cutting and ripping. What I want to change it to a rip him blade to make this groove because a ribbon blade gives you a flat bottom. We're going to do that right now. Always make sure that any power tools where you're making a change, where you come in contact with the blade, make sure you unplug it. Okay. I got it. Before I put back in a insert plate by clean around the surfaces that he's going to come in contact with just to make sure is just as flat as it was prior to me taking it out. I use this product for my gauge in is a height gauge and I use it to set my blade height. In this case, I'm going to be setting it to a quarter-inch. As I told you, the quarter-inch technique that I'm using, I think is plenty strong between the blue Add pin in the joint gives a plenty of strength for the application. But if you wanted to make it, you know, three-eighths of an inch for your joy n3 or half-inch, you can make an adjustment here using a scrap. I'm also going to mark the center. This is an example of what I'm talking about when I use my thing as a gauge, I was imperfect so I mopped lattice side and then I mocked in between it a media adjustment on my finger and I found the center and I was able to mark it. And I use it to set the blade because the groove that we want to make is a quarter of an inch, but the blade is an eighth of an inch, and we want it to be in the center of this board, so we're going to flip it. So it makes a groove in the center. And we're gonna do this a couple times to sneak up on a fit that we want. Just using small minor adjustments. And every time you make a minor adjustment, you want to move it by like the of an age, you just want to barely move it does when you run it, you're going to run it twice for us on one side and then turn around and you're going to run again. And then you're going to check. You see that right there. That does give me pretty close or quarter of an inch and then I would check it. You verify that is if is not wide enough, I'm going to open it up a little bit. By MCAT offense, a little further away from the blue. Once is all set up with the piece of scrap. I'm going to move on to our actual pieces. I have this guide setup a is actually meant for ripping then pieces. And if you have ever see my table saw Safety cause, you would think that this is actually something on safe that I'm doing. But actually because I'm not making a through cut, I can have this piece right day and it's not putting any pressure, it just touching the board and is not a through cut sideways, no risk of a kickback. Now what that does, it helps me one, the older board in place, so I have no wiggle room. And to the height of the blade is lower than this. So it also acts as a god. That's another reason why I'm using a quarter of an inch stops, tenants and groove. Because I think doing this on a table saw, especially for beginner, is less scary, especially without a god in place because you cannot do this. What I'm doing here, we've forgotten blue. So he's an extra measure of security, or should I say safety. 12. 11 Cutting the Stub Tenons: After Clinton, all of the grooves for the center panel, we're going to turn our attention to tenons on the rails. You're going to start by mocking back a quarter of an inch. And in, you're going to line it up with the blade and using a piece of block on offense, you're going to use it as a stop to line it up with the blade. This may take a little trial and error would a scrap, you're going to set a stop so you can repeat it on both sides and on both pieces of both rails. So the shoulders would be cut in exactly the same place, a quarter of an inch. Notice I have the blade God in place for this operation. I can use my mighta gauge along with my fence because it's not a through cut. There's no danger of a kickback. Now, after I caught this shoulder, I need to clean out the rest of the tenant from the shoulder out. So I'm placing this stop once again, there is no danger of a kickback where what I'm doing and I'm using maximum switch, in this case the olden at Pisa board and what is acting as a stop to make sure that I never go pass the shoulder and damage the shoulder. Because what I'm doing here is nibbling away from the rest of the material out today edge. This is a technique for someone that does not have a dataset or don't have another means of doing this type of Jordan r3, such as a router table. It takes a little bit longer, but if you take your time, you can achieve it. And after you nibble away all the pieces, you can push the piece back and forward while running it over the blade to make sure that everything is flat. Once again, I'm doing this with control and with the added protection of both a visual and a physical DOD. Take your time. You can achieve this. If you have any questions, you can post them in the comment. I'll be more than willing to offer advice. Now after you finish cutting a tongue, like you see here, you may have to do a little bit of clean-up work with a sharp knife or a box cutter and a chisel on the shoulder to make sure I It's seats flat. I also like to knock off the edge. You just make easy assembly when you go to do you blew up a nice sharp goals along with patients and take your time. Woodworking is not for the individual. 13. Chapter 12 Cutting the Door Panel : Cloud a quarter-inch sheet of material down to the dimension provided on the PDF. This will be used for the center panel of the door. 14. Chapter 13 Dry Fitting the Door : Try fitting assures that everything is going to go together as planned or as expected prior to blowing up. You do not want to find out that the pieces do not go together or something is too long or too short at the point of blew up. So you always want to drive it. If in a dry fitting process you find out something does not work out, this is your time to rectify that. So always do a dry fit prior to glue enough. 15. Chapter 14 Gluing up the Door : Once you have verified that everything fits together properly, you can go ahead and start applying a liberal amount of glue onto all meeting surfaces. In the case of a plywood center panel, you could even apply glue to that to what I generally don't because I'm using a stub in a quarter-inch rather than three-eighths or a half-inch. I also pin joints together using a 23 gauge pin Nala or additional strength. It's a good idea. After you finish clamp on it and use it to clean up. You want to have a little bit squeeze of the joint does not stop. Blue has been applied to everything and go ahead and put it together, make sure all my edges are aligned and apply clamping pressure. And I go ahead and verify that by checking from corner to corner using my folding rule, using a 23 gauge been Nala. If I'm happy with everything, I'll go ahead and pin joint. 16. Chapter 15 Filling and Sanding : After the door has been in a clam for lease an hour and a half or two. You can take it out of the clamps and go ahead and fill any nail holes or any imperfection as needed. This particular Neo fella I'm using is a water-based Neil filler. You can reconstitute it using warm water if a has dried up. I like this nail filler. I highly recommend it is made by a company called timbre made. Besides being able to reconstitute it after it has dried out. A noteworthy features of this NEO Philae is the fact that it comes in other colors. And in the case of the natural, you can tint it to match particular species of wood, especially if you intend to stay in the piece. It can also be used as a green Philae. When you use as a green fill out your fin it down a little bit and then spread it all over the lumbar to fill the grain dense sand it on the surface but a pencil so I could keep track on my side in progress. 17. Chapter 16 Drilling Holes for the Cup Hinges : This easy board makes easy work out of creating the holes for the compact door hinges. If you're going to be making cabinet doors, I highly recommend that you go out and purchase. One of these is word, every single dollar is well-built, all metal construction. It has stops for reveals, for full overlay, half overlay. A comes with well-written instruction as a center mark for the larger 35-millimeter bit. And they also has guides for locating the ends of your doors. Once again, I cannot recommend this enough. It's an excellent tool. It's only shortcoming in my opinion is the lacO does collection. I will use these special press fit specifically for patterns created by the table. This is excellent. 18. Chapter 17 Attaching the Door to the Face Frame : Prior to installing a door, I describe a line on the bottom of the face frame that sets my half inch reveal so I can visually see where the door needs to be placed. These are the pan heads girls that I use to install the hinge to the face frame. I will have a hardware kit for sale for anyone that would like to purchase one. I also use a Vicks bit to install using the hinge itself as a guide and aligning the bottom on a door to deadline that I showed you early on a face frame, I'm able to use a fixed bid to drill a hole in its precise location. Attach the screw using a load torque setting on your jewel driver. This is very important because you do not want to strip out the hole. After you attach the door, go around and verify your reveals to make sure that the equal and check your door, make sure that is operating on functioning correctly. You've done that and it's done to your satisfaction. You finish the project with your favorite finish, and you're done. Thank you for taking this class and have a good day.