Learn Adobe Lightroom in 30 Minutes | Phil Ebiner | Skillshare

Learn Adobe Lightroom in 30 Minutes

Phil Ebiner, Video | Photo | Design

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1 Lessons (31m)
    • 1. Learn Adobe Lightroom in 30 Minutes

      31:06
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About This Class

In this beginner Adobe Lightroom tutorial, you'll learn how to import, edit, and export photos. Get familiar with the program layout. Learn all of the main editing tools and panels - such as fixing exposure, white balance, vignetting, sharpening, removing noise, brush and graduated adjustments, cropping, tone curve, hue, saturation, luminance adjustments, and much more!

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Transcripts

1. Learn Adobe Lightroom in 30 Minutes: in this tutorial, I'm going to show you how to use It will be light room in less than 30 minutes or so. So Light Room is a great photo editing software brought about by Adobe, and I like it a lot for batch editing photos. So when I go traveling when I shoot a wedding, when I do a big project and I want to just be able to edit a lot of photos at once and even copy in pace settings from one edit to the next, I love using light room rather than Photoshopped. Photo shop is great for editing. You can do all kinds of things. I mean, it's really great for retouching created, grab, creating graphics. But for batch editing, I love light room, so let's dive right in. I'm going to be using the latest version of Adobe Light room version Creative Cloud. I'm recording this in 2017 so I have the 2017 version. But things might change in the future. Lie room has been about the same for for many years, even in the previous versions of light room. What you're going to be learning in this video will be very similar. But of course, if you have any questions, or if something is confusing, just let me know. I also have a complete adobe light room course that covers all the bases from a dizzy and it's a lot longer goes into depth, lots more practical exercises, project files, that kind of thing if you're interested in that. But right now, I just want to go over the basics and get you started. Hey, and look at that. I open up adobe light room and you get to see my neighbors boat in our backyard. So before when you get started with Adobe Light Room, you probably won't know all what's really going on, and you won't see photos in adobe light room. I see photos because I've already you been using light room and it opens up with the last photos that I was working on. Let's just go over the bases. Let's understand what? Where we are in light room up at the top. You have your file menus. This is where you can import. You can do some editing a lot of organization, but we're not going to be doing much up here other than saving our projects and exporting and opening new files. Perhaps up here in the top, right, you have the different tabs for or within adobe light room. Think of these is different editing rooms. They do different things. The first tab is the library. This is where you can import and organize your photos. The next have is the develop module where you're actually editing your photos. There are other tabs, like map where you can tag your photos around the world, create books, create slide shows you can customize for printing out or for posting to the web. But today we're just going to be working in the library and developed Hap. To be honest, these air the two tabs that I spend 99.9% of my time in adobe light room. So the first thing you needed to know is how to import photos. So we're gonna move over to the left. Here's where you have your navigators, where you can preview images in the library room, you have things like a catalogue or folder and a collection. This is kind of confusing because they kind of seem a little bit similar under folders. This is where light room is pointing towards your computer itself. So this is where you can actually go in, choose a folder. So say I go into my main Macintosh computer thes air folders that I've already imported into light room. So this isn't actually going in to import these air one folders that I've already imported So you can see that hip imported folders from two macula from a Mount Baldy hag from different weddings. And this is on my computer. Collections are folders that you create within adobe light room toe. Organize your photos. So say you go on a trip and you want to create a folder of your best photos. You would put them in a collection, not a folder. So a little confusing to import photos. Just click this big import button over here in the bottom left of that little window. And here is where you find photos from different sources on the left. You can choose a source, so I have my Macintosh. That's my computer or external hard drives. So, for example, I can go to the latest hike that I went on. And here are a few photos from that hike. These are raw photo files, and I really encourage people to shoot and raw is especially when you're editing them in light room, because it gives you a lot more ability to edit, so I can select the photos that I want to import. They're all already checked on, so it's going to automatically import all of these. But I could also select them here if I don't want to import all of them down here in the bomb, there's some convenient buttons to check all of them or uncheck all of them. I can click this button right to the left of check all Teoh. Preview it larger so I can see a little bit better on the right hand side. You can choose what you want to do while you import. So with file hat handling, I usually just leave most of these unchecked except for don't import suspected duplicates because light room is referencing photos on your computer or on your hard drive, and it gets a little bit confusing and disorganized if you're really importing photos from the past that you've already worked on. So I usually have that checked on, and then if you want to automatically add these to a new collection. You can click that add to collection button. You can add them to a past collection you've created, or click Click this little plus sign to add a new collection. So maybe I'll call this Bear Canyon hike, which is where we were. You can put this inside of a set a collection set, which you can create later on and say, I have a hikes folder or something like that. I can put that inside of that folder. I'm just going to say create and then click import. Once I've imported, you see that they appear right here in the middle. There also appear down here in this little film strip sort of tab right here, down at the bottom. Now, if I go to collections, I can see that I have my Bear Canyon hike. So if I ate in the future editing or I want to go back to all those photos, I can easily click Bear Canyon Hike. I could also go under folders and see that I've imported them under this hike folder. But because the naming of my folders on my computer does, it's kind of confusing sometimes I could be better. It's easier to find these just from the collections. Cool. So now I have all my images here. I can scroll through them by clicking this button up here, using the arrow keys to go through them right or left, or just clicking on them down below. One big aspect of adobe Light room is raiding and organizing. So what I usually do is I have a ton of photos and then I'll bring them all into light room and then all rate them. There's different ways of rating or flagging or labelling photos and light room, and you can figure out what's best for you. They have a simple flag or unflagging or sort of un select or select so I can click this little flag button down here. If I want to select all the ones that I like and then the ones that I don't like, and perhaps it won't add it in the future, I can just uncheck or I can give a rating, so that's typically what I'll do. I'll start by going through all right, all the ones that I definitely don't want to edit as one star for the ones that I definitely do want toe edit. I'll put as five star, for example, And then I'll kind of make up according toa my own judgment. Oh, is this a five star photo? Is this a four star photo? Maybe three stars? I'll add it all of three stars, but four and five stars are the ones that I will probably post online. You can kind of come up with your own system. For example, I have this photo and this photo. So which one do I like? Which one do I don't kind of like this profile shot this one before I'll put at one star this one I'm not going to selects all Put one star, etcetera. Now we have those rated. But how do we actually filter those? Great thing is, we have all these filtering options in the bottom, right? Right now I have the filters off. But if I click this little filters off, drop down, I can choose a rating. I can choose flagged or not, so I choose raided. That brings up a filter. Right now it's filtered as better or equal to one star, so everything that's has a star will be appearing here, but say I want to just show the ones that are three stars or higher. I can do that. And now that's easy for me to do and just edit these three photos without even dealing with the rest. I can always turn off this filter if I want to go back and see all of those photos I've selected. There's also color labels. If you want label use colors, you can easily added color Lady label along with all of these other labels by right clicking set color label, choosing the color that you want to label it as if we go back to this view where we see all of the photos. You can also set ratings easily this way. By going through, you can set the flag. You can set a star rating or a color rating just right up here. You can even zoom in with this little slider down here, which allows you to get a pretty good preview of the photo so you don't necessarily have to go into the sort of full screen mode. Cool. So now I have the photos that I have selected and I want to edit Let's go ahead and start editing, so I'll switch over to the develop module by clicking this button up here. I can rearrange or close some of these panels if I want. When I'm editing, I usually don't need this whole navigation and collections panel open, so I'll just click this little arrow to the left. If I want even more room, I can kind of close these options at the top by going like so and at the bottom, it can close down below. So I get this full screen editing view in my light room. I like having the stats and the information about the photo up here in the top left to turn that honor off. You can go to view loop info, then turn on show info, overlay or not. If I want to change what is shown, I can choose view options, and I can choose if I want to show the capture date, the dimensions, the exposure, eso lens settings, etcetera. If I just press I on my keyboard, Aiken toggle through those settings, so the date or I like having this one up so I can see the aperture of the eye so that kind of information on the right. We have a number of options. Let me just close down all of these drop down menus, and I can show you all the different options we have for editing. Let's just start at the top and work our way down. We also have a few sort of different types of adjustment brushes up here. We can go through as well, starting with the basic settings. This these are all sliders, and the way that you edit any of these effects is either by dragging left or right on the slider or by clicking the number to the right of the slider and in placing in the number that you want. Or you can hover your mouse over the slider and press the up or down arrow buttons on your keyboard. And that kind of jumps up the settings at different intervals. So that's a great way to make sort of minor adjustments. If you make a change and you wanna undo it, units press the undo button, which is Control Z on on PC Command Z on a Mac, or say you've gone through made a lot of changes. You can just double click the sliders to set it back to reset it. If you want to reset the entire photo, there is this reset button down here, which is cool to know how to do. But sometimes you make a lot changes, and you just want to reset an individual slider at the top. You have your white balance so you can adjust the white balance with the sliders, the temperature going from cool to warm. Or you can change the tent as well. And sometimes you have to do both, making it more magenta or green. There's also this drop down where you can choose the white balance option from these preset ones. Say you're we're outside. Maybe you want to choose the daylight setting. You can also select a white point in your photo to set the white balance by clicking this little eyedropper, going to your photo, finding something that's white, and it helps if it's exposed properly or even something gray sometimes works and clicking that. So that's going to make this photo properly white balance. Depending on how you're feeling what style you want, you might want to adjust this. You might want to make it a little bit more warm or cool. Next, we have our tone sliders. You have overall exposure, which adjust the brightness of every part of your photo. You have contrast, which makes all the lights lighter and the darks brighter or the lights to the. If you decrease that contrast, the lights become darker and the darks become brighter. If you go to the right, the darks become darker and the brights become brighter, so it's more contrast. E. You can create custom contrasts with these sliders down below, because these affect individual parts of your photo. So if the highlights will just adjust the highlight parts of your image, the shadows will just adjust the shadows. The blacks, just the blacks, the whites again, just the whites or the blacks up here in the top. You haven't hit, Ah, history, Graham, which I like paying attention to. If you have a photo where in the photo itself, you have darks and whites. You generally want to see a hist, a gram that goes like this all the way from the left, which is the blacks to the right. If you click on this triangle over on the top, left or the top, right? You see the highlights, what's being crushed to black and what's being overexposed to bright. And if I drop down the exposure, you can see that it starts to get a lot of this blue little area. This isn't actually blew on my image. This is just showing me that it's crushed black. I can even just hope hover over it if I goto. If I have this one on the top, right, checked and we go white, you can see that gets this little red warning. Basically, think of it as a warning, saying that this is too overexposed. So those are just two things to keep be aware of to. So let's just bring up the exposure just a little bit. Make this a little bit brighter. Overall exposure, like bringing up and then bringing the whites down shadows down, highlights down a little bit cool so you can play around with that How you want. I'm also going to include these images. If you want to play around with this image yourself below, you have the presence, lighters, clarity. This kind of adds a little bit of sharpness. A little bit of contrast to the edges of things become a little fine. If you go too crazy gets like sort of hdr look, which can be cool for some landscapes. It doesn't really look cool for photos of people. If you go to the left, it gets a little bit softer and a little kind of glowy. The next two sliders affect the colors, so you have vibrance, which, let's start actually with saturation saturation effects the colors of all every color in your photo, so every color becomes more saturated, more colorful, whereas vibrance is a little bit smarter. And it's better to use vibrance when you're editing photos of a person. So let me just bring up that photo of my buddy John, because if I bring up the slider for vibrance or saturation here, his arms get really orange, which I don't really want because unnatural. But if I want to bring up the saturation for everything except sort of the skin tones, I can use this vibrant slider and bring that up. You can see there. That's a more natural increase of saturation without increasing skin tones, so use vibrance more if you want to increase saturation with people in the photo. Cool. So that's the basic tab. Now let's quickly just fly through some of these other tabs and I'll let you play around with some of them. But I just want to show you some of the basics tone curve. This is another way of adjusting the saturate or the exposure on the left. You have your darks on the rights. You have your bright. So if you click and drag on this line, you can see that I can increase or decrease the exposure. I can create sort of an s curve, which is your typical contrast curve. So that, as a bit of contrast, creating sort of an S curve. You can just keep clicking. Keep moving these round, depending on what you like. If you want it really contrast that you can do that too. Hs l panel. This is really cool because this allows you to affect different parts of your image based off of color. So if I want to just affect the blues, the hues of the blue or the saturation of the blues or the luminous of the blue, I can take my blue slider drag left or right, changing this color of the sky, literally the saturation you can see. I can just affect all the blues or decrease the saturation of just the blues and the luminant is the bright. The cool thing with this is that it has sort of a picker where if you click this little but in in the top left, I can select this and then I could find any color in my photo and drag up or down. So if I have the Huse elected and then I pressed this blue and dragged down and changed the color, and I'm dragging up or down and it doesn't just I picked that color in the sky. But that color in the sky has a little bit of purple in there because you can see that that affected the purple is, well, let's go to another photo just so that you can see that's an example. So say I have this photo and I want to bring up the saturation of the red sort of soil and the trail. Say, click the saturation button right here, click in the trail. Bring up that saturation and your specifically picking that color that's in your image Maybe I want to bring up the saturation of the greens thes ones over here. I can do that. Or de saturate. Pretty cool, huh? So instead of just affecting the overall saturation with the sliders up here in the basics tab, you can pick and choose where you want to edit split, toning I'm going to skip. But that's basically a way of affecting just the highlights or the shadows. You can see if I adjust the hue and increase the saturation, it's going to affect the highlights up here. Okay, so you can play around with that. I usually don't do too much. Split toning detail is where you can sharpen your image or reduce noise. So even though I shot this outside, if I zoom in, you might see a little bit of noise, and the sky is really hard for you to tell. But you can increase the noise reduction. I usually don't go too far, maybe up to 25 or so, and that decreases that noise. This helps a lot if you're using a cheaper DSLR camera shooting at night with a higher I s . So I had a nice so 200 right here, which is pretty low. So I don't get too much noise on this photo and then saying with sharpening, If you want to add a little bit of sharpening, you can. It automatically adds a bit of sharpening when you our editing. Raw photos. If you're editing Jay Pek photos that won't automatically add these settings right here. But you can go ahead and play with those yourself lens corrections. So every camera that you have the lens actually is seeing the world in its own way, and sometimes it sort of bows or stretches. The image is in a way that is unnatural. I usually like the lens, and it also might have a vignette around the edge. I usually like the way it my lenses look, but if you want to get rid of that sort of distortion, you can just click, enable profile corrections. If you're using a modern DSLR digital DSLR digital SLR camera with a modern lens, usually it will automatically know what lens you're using. So it knows that I was using my 24 million millimeter lens. If I turn this on her off, you can see what happens. It makes it a little bit less bowed, and it brightens the edges just a little bit because there was sort of a natural vignette there. If I have this on, I can go through and choose the lens itself. If it doesn't automatically recognize, or I can manually increase or decrease the distortion and the vignette ing with the's sliders right here, this next drop down is something that I haven't used that much. But it has a lot of sliders where you can actually play around with sort of the perspective of your photo. And, you know, if you go crazy, this starts to look really wonky really quickly. But it's a cool way to come up with sort of a creative image. Or if you know, sometimes you might need a little bit of an adjustment perspective adjustment. If things aren't perfectly straight and you want to realign it just so that that wall that you took a photo of is perfectly straight, these tools will help. There's a lot of things that I'm just barely covering because it takes a little bit of time to play around with. But I want to get through just a few more because I know we're heading up to a 30 minute mark with effects. This is basically your vignette. You can decrease or increase the or have a darker highlight vignette. There's the amount slider. If you change the midpoint, get smaller or bigger. The roundness will make it more of a circle or just a square. We're on the edge and feathering will feather that been yet? More or having more like a hard line. You can add grain to your photo. If you want that style, you can change the size, roughness and then the D. Hayes amount. This is a cool new feature that I like, especially if you are shooting landscapes. If it's a little bit hazy, you can increase this. And what it does. Is it as a little clarity to where it thinks the there's haze or fog or clouds? So test that out if you have photos where it's a little bit cloudy if you're looking in the distance, I really like that effect. Lastly, camera calibration. I usually just use this as standard. If you have a different sort of camera profile that you're using, you can change that, but usually just let leave that be? Lastly, we have these few options up here. This top one on the left is your crop. If you click that you get the bounding box, which you can actually just decrease the size, move your photo around, then press return on your keyboard. Click. Done it. To finish that crop. You can always go back and crop it later again by clicking that button. If you have a specific aspect, ratio or size that you want, you can use click to the right of the aspect and shoes. So you're wanting to create a square that's a one by one aspect. Perfect for Instagram. So I have my box. You can resize it, make it smaller, bigger and then press return. Okay, pretty cool. These next two tools allow you to fix red eye or fix, spot or do spot removal. So say we go in here and John has this mole on his arm or this this ah scar right there. If I click that and I make sure it's on healing brush and then I click right here over that scar, it's going to take another part of his arm and sort of blend it over that I can move that Teoh is part that looks a little bit more natural, something like maybe here and there. You can see that now that scar is gone. So that's the clone brought hell brush. You can use the clone brush the similar way just to copy and paste or kind of clone another part of your image to another part. Read I Brash. Same thing. You just click it on the eyeball that has read I. These next three options basically do the same thing, so I'm not going to go over all of them. But they basically allow you to make an adjustment to just a part of your image. Whether you're using the graduated filter, the radio filter or an adjustment brush where you can just brush a specific part of your image, you can adjust. You can make adjustments, so let's click this graduated filter. If we click that and then we click and drag on our image, you can see what's happening. No, I already have some settings that are already set, but let me just reset these and then I'm also going to click down here, show selected mask overlay what is highlighted in red is actually being selected and will be affected. So say I just want to edit the sky. I can move this around with clicking this dot in the middle. I can rotate it by selecting the center line and dragging up or down. And I could make the graduation or the feathering of this effect bigger or smaller, by clicking and dragging the outside edges in. So this is just going to affect the sky. So let me turn off the mask overlay. Now let me adjust. So we have all these different sliders there. Some of them are very similar to the basic adjustments that we have in light room. So say I want to make the temperature of the sky really warm or really blue. If you want to make your sky a little bit more blue, you can do that. I want to make a darker Aiken do that as well. Maybe I just want to De Hayes the sky. I can do that with this D Hey, slider. Pretty cool, right? Once you're done, you just click done before. When I create another one. Let's just use our adjustment brush. I'm going to reset all these settings and you can see here that there's actually some presets you can use in this drop down. You have a teeth whitening skin softening iris enhance. Those things will help you improve. Quote unquote improve, you know, teeth or eyes. So let me just reset these by double clicking. Now, let me adjust my brush with these brush settings. Say, I just want to affect this row of mountains back here. I don't really see where I'm going, so I'm going to check shows, selected mask, overlay he over. Turn that off. Now, let's make these ah, lot more saturated, like an increase. The saturation of just that selection. Click done. If I ever want to go back and edit or delete any of those, I just click on the tool up here. I find the dot where I started, click it and then delete it. Okay, so you can see minor adjustments that it made if I already created one. Or if I'm editing one and I want to create a new adjustment layer, just click this new button right here, and then paint over wherever else you want to go here. This is where I painted, I would look crazy, so I'm not going to do that. I'm going to undo that. But those all work very similarly. The radial filter. It's like the graduated filter, but it's a circle, so you can affect everything outside of the circle or everything in the circle. Okay, so those are all the tools that you have. Man, this is a crazy class or crazy tutorial. I don't think I've ever given a such an in depth just quick Teoh like this. So now you know how to make your adjustments play around with that. How do you export your images? You can export all of them at once By selecting multiple, I just click one and then shift. Click the last one to select all of them. Or you can just pick and choose by option by command, clicking the ones that you want to choose or control if you're on a PC, so let me just select all of them. I go up to file, or I can go back to my library tab and click export or file export. Here. You could have all of the settings. First you have your location where you want to save it so I can just choose a new place. I'm just gonna put on my desktop, for example. I can name it. Rename these all. Depending on different sequencing, you can just have it named as the file name. Usually I do a custom name sequence, so we'll just call this hike and then start at number one and then it's going to name it. Hike one hike to hike three. Next, you have files settings while you have video, but I don't. We're not exporting videos, and we don't have anything like that for files settings. This is where you can choose. Is it a J Peg PSD tiff file? You can limit the size of the file. This might be helpful if you are uploading online and you don't want super large file sizes . But if you're exporting full quality size, just leave that unchecked and leave the quality at 100. If you have a specific actual pixel size that you want this to be, you can do that again. If you're posting online and you want it to be 1000 pixels wide, just click this resized to fit. Set the with the 1000 leave the height blink so that it saved as the right aspect ratio resolution at 1 50 is perfect, and we're good to go. Some people like sharpening for screen a little bit. I usually just leave that unchecked, especially if I did a little bit of sharpening myself within light room. You can add a watermark right here. What happens after you export, say, showing finder. Or you can have it open up in photo shop or open another application. If you want to continue working with it, I'm just going to show in Finer and click Export is going to export up here in the top left , you can see this sort of bar going as exports, and there you have it on my desktop like one, two and three, and they're all 1000 pixels wide, the second to our 6 67 pixels tall. The 1st 1 is 1000 pixels tall because we remember had cropped it to a 1 to 1 ratio, but the others were still at that original aspect ratio of the photo, and that's why this with is 1000 because we said it there. But the height is shorter to maintain it to make sure it's not stretched. Wow, that is a quick 30 went five plus minutes tutorial in adobe light room. Hopefully, this helps you get started. If you have questions, please let me know. Also, if you want a full adobe light room course I have that, and you can go to video school online dot com to find it. And I hope you enjoyed this tutorial that won. The course will be a lot slower, will go more in depth. There's lots more practice files so you can follow along with us. But hopefully this gives you a sort of a great quick start to using light room. Thanks so much. Have a beautiful day and we'll see you in another tutorial.