Layered Ovals Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare
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12 Lessons (1h 16m)
    • 1. Layered Ovals Earrings

    • 2. Layered Ovals Earrings - materials

    • 3. Layered Ovals Earrings - equipment

    • 4. Layered Ovals Earrings - soldering equipment

    • 5. Layered Ovals Earrings - texturing

    • 6. Layered Ovals Earrings - sawing

    • 7. Layered Ovals Earrings - filing and sanding

    • 8. Layered Ovals Earrings - sweat soldering

    • 9. Layered Ovals Earrings - preparing the earwires

    • 10. Layered Ovals Earrings - soldering the earwires

    • 11. Layered Ovals Earrings - finishing the earrings

    • 12. Layered Ovals Earrings - final thoughts


About This Class

Welcome to the Layered Ovals Earrings class! The two ovals used in this earrings design are neatly nested and layered together, forming an elegant and flattering pair of earrings with no unsightly solder around the edges. The secret of this lovely neat finish is sweat soldering, and it is this technique that I will teach you in the class - no more messy solder left to spoil your beautiful jewellery!


This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me. In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is for intermediate jewellery makers as some previous experience of soldering is useful.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers most of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #16 in the #52earrings challenge



1. Layered Ovals Earrings: Hello, My name's John Tinley. I'm a jewelry designer and shooter from the UK and welcome to the late ovals Aaron's class . If you watched any of my other video classes, then I hope you picked up on the fact that I like to teach something new in each class. On in this class. I'm going to be teaching you a technique who sweat soldering that enables you to get a really neat finish when soldering two layers of metal together. In this case, I got smaller Opel nesting inside a larger over. This is a technique that can be used in so many different projects. It takes a bit of practice a little bit. Experience the workouts exactly how much soldier you need, because it's difficult to add extra soldier if you find enough. But once you've most did it, it was a really, really useful technique to have in your also. This class is part of the 52 airing to challenge. I set myself for 2017 to design and film tutorials for 52 different players of earrings throughout the year. If you don't find out more or to see behind the scenes photos and look out the hashtag 52 hearings, both on Instagram and Facebook, So let's get started by having a look at the materials and equipment to the eventually to make the earrings. 2. Layered Ovals Earrings - materials: the's of the materials that you're going to need to make the project. Pair of earrings for this class The piece of silver still covered in its blue protective coating is no 0.8 millimeters. Thick has about 20 gauge Andi. The smaller piece is approximately naught 0.5 millimeters. It's a piece that was left over from another project. I've used the rolling mill to think it out to give it a white surface area. To make it suitable for this project, I'm going to be using no 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge sterling silver wire to make the ear wires. It's the same whilst I use use for ear wires as it's strong enough to hold its shape but not too thick to be uncomfortable when you pass it for your ears, obviously not going to need as much off the wires you can see in this coil here. I just buy lost to time because I get through it quite quickly. I'm probably going to need about 10 centimeters worth 3. Layered Ovals Earrings - equipment: the's the hand tools that we're going to need for the layered ovals. Earrings. I'm going to use the ovals template to help me draw out the ovals I'm going to, then sore out on dial. Use a Sharpie with the template with soaring us is going to be done with jewelers sore. Ondas Usual. I'm going to support my work on the bench Pake with the apron underneath to touch the dust on a scrap so that could be recycled off. The ovals have been cut out. I'm going to make sure that the edges of really nice and neat with the needle file on door . So the emery paper. Just make sure they are. There's Nisus Moose. I can make them what two hammers here. The Swiss style hammer across peen hammer is once I'm going to use the texture. The top overall toe ads. Make sure interest on Duthie balking Hammer. I'm going to use for helping to form the ear wise. Well, I'm hammering the work. I'm going to support it on the steel blocks to get so I can get the best time. Its effect on the Seelbach, in turn, is going to rest on another cushion to help keep the noise down. I push a ruler to help me measure out the amount of why this I need to make the wise Onda eventually susceptible Mandrell the night on your pliers, the flat nose pliers and the wire cutters to help me form the ear wise as well. This is a soldier in project. So in the next section of the video class, I'm going to show you the soldering equipment that you will need. 4. Layered Ovals Earrings - soldering equipment: I think this is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, Everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier, move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans. Since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans it a couple oxides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our home safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Layered Ovals Earrings - texturing: on a still block here. I've got the thinner piece of approximately not quite five millimeter study. So was sheet. I'm going to use that for this smaller ovals. Is it going to be on top? A pair of earrings? I'm actually going toe hammer the sheet before I saw it out. The reason for this it is I'm using shapes that is designed to be neatly nested inside each other. If I were to cut the ovals out and then hammered, um, the hammering, we distort the shapes and they wouldn't fit so neatly together. I'm going to leave the bottom layer of the earrings, the pieces that were going to be cut out, no 0.8 millimeter sheet or no, leave those plane if I want to. A hammer those as well. Then again, I would cut off a piece of sheets that's big enough for the two ovals. I'm going to be cutting out texture that on, then cut the ovals out so I get more precise shapes. So it was I'm going to do now. Is just used my favorite cross being hammer to Hama up and down this piece of sheet. - Just checking to see the sign for I've given it a nice even texture. Make sure it's wrong to me. Sections of missed out do is a little bit more just here, right? That's why she stretched out the metal quite a little bit, because remember that the metal moves at right angles the head of the hammer. So go ahead of the 100. Bear right angles with thirst. Stretch it out a little bit. Is also you can see given it was a bit of a curve, so I'm going to need to flushing that out again, who accomplished my fingers and have pliers to make it easier to cut out the two ovals. 6. Layered Ovals Earrings - sawing: Now that I've texted the centerpiece of the sheet, it's time to cut the ovals out on bond. I'm using the oval pairs template I showed you earlier. I've really actually cut out one of the the larger oval so I could show it to you Asked if the thicker sheet Andi place this oval here. This I've cut out. I tried to makes You can see best use of a piece of the sheet starts back in. There s so there will be a little amount of wasted as possible thes over pairs necessary nicely inside each of us. So each pay was larger and a smaller on They nest really nicely in each inside each other. And I say I need to do is to I'm Ruthie's. It sounds the way marks the second overlong again trying to make best use of the sheets that I've got. She's in a sharply to mark that on, but she just going to cut this is will pay self. Otherwise, it's going to get in the way every day, just full down into the apron, be safe there for another time. So that's the second overall need to cut out now There is a pdf with some hints and tips to help you get the best of few jewelers sore and to get sewing a smooth and accurate as possible. And you can download that it's attached the class projects with your sections of class. But to run through a cup of the main hints and tips. Now you want to try and keep. The blade is upright as possible. Support your work on the bench. Paige with jewels sore running, double down, sought in between it. Try and keep it as upright as possible, because if you tip it over, even though the sheet is well to the things we talked about quite small distances, you'd still be cutting through the top before you cut for the bottom. Which means that when you want to try and turn a corner, that will make it very, very difficult. So if you try, heat the bladers upright as possible, and all of us have to plate as much as possible on that one sparse, it might be a little bit of one side of it forward and back, but trying to keep it more someone spot and feeds the silver onto it. in the same way that you feed material onto a so machine needle because that will help you to get this smoothest coolest as possible on the last thing to give you now, before we get started, is to let the blade do the work for you not to put any pressure on the blade because we do is actually more like to get stuck into break. Andi is that annoys Sison out for us. I will go through the now. So not my work supported on the jeweler's bench pay is having to sit up a little bit onto the bench, broken the back here because it's so long. Um, I like to start stop there because I can come feed onto the curve at the bottom of the oval . I like to saw anti clockwise because I'm right handed on that way. My work is always on the site. I could see if I was storing clockwise, my braid Honduras or would hide the work a little bit. So what should be start up here because there's little not share something on the shape that I cut out. That was the ear for a hair. So they start off there. This is the nice, smooth rhythmic noise I said, Jesus. Not for if you hear this noise, it means you're putting a little bit of pressure on the blade on. It's getting stuck. So it's nice. Smooth, rhythmic sound your hair. Now move my fingers So it's holding across both sides of the cut just to support the work. Better don't wife not soaring as fast as I am. I've been doing this a lot. Work on your accuracy. Speed will come later. Okay, like Okay, so that's a second over. Cut out. So it's a back section of each sharing. They need to be filed to make sure that they're nice and smooth, and they're definitely the matching pair. But first of all, I'm going to do the same sis in a sheet. So so is worse. Just double checking that for I mark on the second ovals that I am marking on the correct one. Because this one here, Andi Missy's. I drew a line halfway down the piece of sheet, so there's wants to double check that It definitely waas a long enough for the earrings because although I could have the ovals at an angle to fit more all. I could actually cut three out of that length by healthy angle because I want the the decoration on here to go clearly horizontally across the oval. I've got to be careful about where my position to be. That bottom, actually, because we have about where our position, the template on the silver. So I'm going to mark out one at the moment because if I march out both ism, probably as I was handling the silver, it would it would rub out that first mark. Now this silver is I couple of points of a millimetre thinner. That's probably more like 0.4. Now, where's this is 0.7, so it's quite a bit thinner. Andi, this blade is actually best suited to the sicker sheet. It's a little bit too coarse for this thinner sheet. I could cut it out as it is, but it would be quite such a smooth cut it with stop and start quite a bit my little bit jacket. Um, so you wouldn't be DDT to do so what I can do two things. I've been changed down to a thinner blade. This is a two ought blade as witness to forward slash zero on a four ought four forward sash. Zero will be a thinner blade that we bet better suited to Theis thickness of sheet. Or there's another tricks I'm going to show you because you might not have made four orderly final plates in your kit. So I'm going to do is rests the silver on a piece of scratch cards so that that's increasing the thickness of the material. Some cutting out so and start down the booth upon that sounds a bit different because it fell through papers with a silver countries of material. But it's allowing me because our extra sickness to cut through the sinner sheet without it being right to being or quitting without the blade is in court. Just moved it down the bench pagan because it's cutting into the wood thing. I don't mind that would being cutting, too, but it doesn't make the soaring and for bit unnecessary, harder. You can see don't have to turn the paper at the same time cutting card. - Okay , so it is not quite an overhaul, definitely not an overall cut into the card, but, uh, it did the job. They supported the silver Onda allowed me to cut it out. So Mark on second over, Andi do the exact same thing. Just taking my time to make sure that the lines are running across the oval. We got came to stop the blading through where I was cutting out the first stable. - Remember , I've got my fingers across both sides. The cuts, I'm afraid, is hiding more silver than ID like it's just if I could move, hold it back a little bit there. Just so I've got a better support on the silver, okay? But he's yet to see. Now it's a little bit more. Quit Thio Thio. Support it and hold it. At the moment, it's tight space. Here we go. It cuts through. And that's still I'm not silver there to make another couple of pairs of earrings. Maybe really certainly well, so is both pairs of ovals cut out. I no need to file them to make sure everything's nice and smooth before soldering them together. 7. Layered Ovals Earrings - filing and sanding: I got four ovals cut out to smaller to larger to smaller ones, the textured ones nesting just inside. Because that's way that these really nice templates designed. By the way, if you don't have a template site this on, they still come in quite a different variety of of shapes that then just using something like clip art from a computer I'm playing about with shapes that she gets on there will help you to find some really nice nesting shapes as well. So they're. My story has got to the stage where it's most of the time, really nice and accurate. There are still a few kinks is any to work out of this? So you to file the ages on that will also make them smoother on more comfortable as well. So let's take this sort of shape self quite a bit of the time. I will keep the blue plastic coatings that comes on the still will keep it on the silver for quite a bit of time when I'm filing. But these pieces are so small that that's the blue plastic coating of every quickly get frayed at the edges on Just look very messy give a bit of a false idea about whether or not it's the age of the silver that's still rough, a messy or whether it's just the plastic. So with the shape of this small, actually find it easier to remove the plastic coating. I'm going to use the flat needle file. This is a great two or medium grade of a file. Andi. So I'm going to do your seen this before. If you think of my other hearings videos where I've got curve here, I'm going to sweep across that curve with needle file just following shape for making it nice and smooth as possible on what you'll be out to sea is such that you see here find move it around in the light. This side is really catching the light blue tree. It's nice and smooth. This site is still got the rough marks left over from the your list sore from the blade, so that's not shining a light so much. So first thing you're looking for it. Is it all nice and samouds like that all the way through a nice and shiny and then you're feeling for that it feels smooth. Other any bumps even feel I feel there. That's not really following a nice, smooth curves or to work on that basis. I come to it. I'm going to continue working my way round, sweeping across the chop right around here. Feel objections. Well, if that helps, but nice long stroke sweeping over. Not usual ones like that. They're not going to help you get the best shape. Nice mood ones. If there's an awkward spot like there was there, you might want to go across like that. I find that helps. Then I go and work on the other side. Now sweep from such hope. So is it bumps there so I could go work more on that spot, just break into the curve little bit better, and then go back to sweeping across. That feels nice. It looks nice at the ends. Of course, if you, uh, Buzz, though the metal that's being pushed over a little bit subbing firing, I could feel my finger tachy them at the edge. So to get rid of those, I'm just going to hold the file throughout 45 degrees and just far those off sweep across for a very likely so again I'm holding the file, but about 45 degrees, the edge off the silver, each of the oval. Just get me to size best and again with the other site. Okay, so that's one done. So I'm going to a 2nd 1 Andi thing. I'm going to see if they might shop nicely. - That's poses a beak. Ovals filed. I just want to now hold him up against each other. It's at this point you can see with the raw, any mark. So there all any areas rather that they're not matching. Now these earrings, they're going to obviously be on either side of your face. No one's ever going to demand that you take the earrings out so they can compare them to make sure that they are absolutely a perfect much impair. And do you remember your human, you not a machine. There are going to be some basil natural variations, but but this stage, you just want to make sure that they are similar, as you possibly can make some. Now I'm not here. They worked out. They are a really good much, but that's not always the case with my soaring. I still do have to work on some areas that sometimes what I would do is take a Sharpie and say, Well, actually, that area there Dietz marking on Andi put a mark on area and know what I need to work on that maybe it's pumping out a little bit too far off smooth, the one you wanted to match. So put a marker pen and then definitely mean indicator to work on that particular area. But those two a nice they're ready to go. So I'm now going to file on the outside of smaller ones. Bit of a rougher area there. That's probably where I bought a blade to join the shape. So if there is any part, whether to overalls, he saw ovals don't much sharp. I'm kind expecting it. Will will be there. We'll see. Okay, that's a small one, done just very lightly going around and making sure that those the spurs removed very lightly because I don't want to damage the texture. It's on front, it says one. We've straight on to the second, and that feels a little bit bumpy. Just that, but there that see ovals or neatly smoothly filed on, Do they do match up my nice safe being lucky. Um, last much in Pez. I do, however, want to make sure that the 80 so I suppose they can possibly be. I'm gonna do that now, because once the smaller ovals are soldered on top, the larger ones I'm not going to be out to tidy up the ages anymore. So what's, um, 2 40? Great 240. Quit emery paper. I'm just going to carefully Sonthi h is I'm being careful not to go over onto the flat surfaces because I don't want to scratch those, she says to my stripping it one to three. Just more, more large, able todo. So my next job is to sold of the ovals into that path. 8. Layered Ovals Earrings - sweat soldering: I set the two pairs of ovals up how I wanted them to be sold it. Ondas you can see the smaller one doesn't less three nicely inside the larger global. So now I need to sold them together. And this is where the new techniques I wanted to show you in this class comes in. It's called sweat soldering, not the most attractive of names. Maybe, but essentially what you do is put the soldier onto the back off the smaller pieces that you're wanting to layer on top of another larger piece of silver. Andi start to melt the solder into well onto the back of those pieces. Soldier. Then you complacent, um, back exactly where you want them to be and re melt the solder. You have to watch out for a fash of silver that flashed a bright silver around the outside . Ideally, you want to see a nice room of that nice bright silver around the outside of the top piece of silver, a meniscus of soldier because that shows you that the soldier has flown smoothly throughout the whole piece. But you can also watch out for the color, making sure the color goes the red color solder. So the ready Carlos soldering and you can also watch out for the appearance of the flux. Now that seems like a lot to watch out for, but I will be going through them on Bond. We've got two earrings, see what two chances to see it. And of course, you can go back and rewind and watch the video again to see bits again. So let's get that larger oval out of the way. Just keep the two smaller ones on dive turned them upside down so I can put the soldier on the back. I'm going to use a paintbrush to apply some flux. Once the back of it sharing. I just wiping off the excess flux off the paintbrush so the paintbrushes dump so you can pick up soldier, but not too wet. So I'm using it to pick up a soldier out off. That's just a plastic tub on going to use the pick, just a scrape off the bits soldier on putting in place, trying to move them about so that but back of this has got very even color, trying to place them so that the black has got fairly even cover. It may look a t from being quite generous with soldier. But remember that although the piece of silk silver isn't very sick, this is quite a wide join to cover. And also with this technique, it's difficult ad extra soldier afterwards. Perhaps it's best to err on the side of caution and be a little bit little bit generous. Well, so do you remember that? My pieces? A soldier. I cut them very small. I send the end of the soldier sick through the rolling mill to thin it out to enable me to cut really thin pieces. A soldier you see there but lots of pieces of soldier dotted across the back. Andi by melting a soldier in place there, the soldiers and exactly where I want it to be. There's nowhere really. I could have placed it on this piece if I put the since that. So the smaller oval on top of here, I could have to try to balance but a soldier around on the bigger oval right up against the smaller one. But there really wasn't much silver there to be able to do that, and also the soldier could then have flown far too much on the bigger over and made a mess this time by starting underneath the small over and drawing it out to the edges. The solder will run around the edge of the smaller, over making nice, neat meniscus. Nice, neat lying of solder. And it leaves the rest of the back oval nice and clear that when I awaken, I'm going to heat up around just one. Over time. I'm not going directly on the silver because the flux is still wet. And having taken time to put those pieces soldier where I wanted them, I don't really want them to move about. Of course, if they did, which you've seen happen in other video classes while I do stop the flame, move them back and start again. You can see the white powdery parents of the flux drying out, so I'm just going to keep going to. That. Soldier starts to melt because then it's definitely sucking place, looking for it to go in almost like little puddles on the back. There we go a little bit more, so not sitting too proud. Spread out a little bit, Andi and put a little bit more gas In this, it started to get a bit of a small flame. That's so much better. Flame. Well, also he did, but it is more powerful. Flame. It did pop off a couple of bits of the soldier, so that said, if this disaster to see to make sure that you move them back, he just flops else a little bit and heating up around rush across the top. And that those peach, the soldier melting into puddles, starting to go now. Very good. Give that one a bit of a nudge. That was that one was, sir, Not quite melting, right. Larger rules, of course he's a halt. So I took me. Don't want to pick him out my fingers. Next job is maneuvering them into place, and it's worth taking a time on this. But if you need to do one and solder that and then going to do the other, then do you say Remember ? I said that piece of soldier was sticking up Quite proud. I'm just going to apply more heat because it stopped things the small oval from sitting neatly up against a as big one that's making sit up too proud. But she taken that off because I think that might be a bit of different solder, high temperature of soldier. By the way, if I haven't really said, I'm using medium Soldier for this, I should still have enough soldier, even though I've taken one piece off using medium solder, because that leaves me free to use easy soldier to attach the ear wise back the earrings. - There we go, some happy with the position of those. So what I need to do is reheat each hearing in turn Onda first I'll go focus the heat on the outside, which you see me do before. This is in this case, not because I've got flux that could dry off too quickly and get the soldier to pop off. But because I want to try and put some heat into the bottom piece of silver and not just focus on the top, because I need to get both pieces of silver in each hearing to the same soldering temperature. Peace at the bottom is the bigger piece of silver's that must make sure that I must make sure that heats up. A couple of things that need to watch out for is that mike. It's some appearance to the flux flowing out around the age. By the way, I haven't had to put more flux on this. There was already flux on the back of the first over the year, the smaller oval, so I don't need to add any more, but you might see some of that flux started to flow out again. Might also see the smaller oval starting two sisters, but lower at the moment special. On this side, you can see that there's a little bit of a dark shadow in between the top over on the bottom one, and that's because it's being lifted up a little bit because the soldier underneath So you're sees a soldier starts to float that was sitting with lower. We're also going to look at look out for the color of the silver. We wanted to go a nice deep red off soldering, but not really a bright, orangey red that's too close to melting temperature. And I dele. We should see if nice lying or flush of silver around the outside of the top oval. That will indicates that the soldier has flown from the middle of the over towards the outside. Yes, yeah, around the outside. But he heat into that bottom over might also cease amortization appearing on that bottom over moment. It's nice and bright now, starting to brush across the top with Britta's. Well, everything's going a nice color. It's getting close to soldering temperature. Go This the top oval is starting to sit a little bit lower. I'm directing a flame around the edge of a bit more cause remember, the solder flows to the hottest heart. So I'm trying to make the age of that top over the hottest parts of solder flows towards the edge. You may have just seen there was a meniscus. A soldier just appearing Well, yeah, on and along there as well was bright light of soldier. I know that security in place. I'm going to do the same with second area with that one. Go around the edge mainly heating up that box from over. If he turns the top, There we go. This top overall just sat neatly down. Now I just used the soldier pick very gently to encourage it down is talking here. Go get him Nicely, soldier. Around the outside It is amazing how long you complete the flame on a rose is a small piece of solder as long as you keep the flame moving and you watch out for color. I don't want you to write a regular insists at the moment. Right then to pass of Oval Soldier together. They had going pickle to be cleaned up after have quenched him. Of course. You know of what? Anything hot in pickle pot on one. So being cleaned, I'm going to sort of the ear wise on the back. So while they're cleaning, I shall show you how to prepare the wise. 9. Layered Ovals Earrings - preparing the earwires: cut to 4.5 centimeter links off the North 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge staying silver wire, and I'm now going to start preparing them to turn them into the ear wise. The oval earrings first thing I'm going to do is to hammer one end of each wire because that will not only give a nicer finish on the back of the earrings, but also makes for a nice a stronger soldier. Join because you then have an increased surface area joint between the wire on the back of the earrings, So I'm going to use the crashing hammer. But this with the silver on the bench, block on top of that, the cushion to give the noise down, just hovering the end. And if I show you a comparison, the to moving around in the light, you can see the light bouncing off. This one's being flash and out a lot more than the the one that's still around, so that one is almost ready to be sold on to back. Do the same to this one we hear. So one more thing to do I'm going to use the flat needle files I used around the edge of the ovals just to file around the edge of thes. Make sure that there were no sharp h is that they look nice and smooth, but some happy those So once the ovals and cells are cleaned up after soldering, I was so these on 10. Layered Ovals Earrings - soldering the earwires: the're wise and now prepared the ovals being cleaned up in the pickle. So it's time to solve everything together. I don't know whether I'd actually set up the top Robles that slightly, slightly the wrong place. Whether may they maybe have moved to tie bits whilst our soldering. But the they're actually both schism site closer to one end than the other. So as it's happened to both of them, then they're still a really nice match pair. Andi, The smaller overalls are still sitting really nice inside that the larger ones. So I've just made sure that I'm putting them up a way so that they still look really nice. And even so, they're slightly closer to the top. When they asked the bottom of the big ovals Andi, I put I could tell that over. I've put a mark with a Sharpie pen on the back of each hearing at the top. Just remind me which way up I want them to bay. So trying to do with one of the time, so going to move the bits off that that I don't need Andi Hoat the first year. Why inside the tweezers like to hold it so that the flattened he's aligned that way that I'm holding the tweezers. Andi, this actually again. Never the most easy thing to see a soldier brick. But I will swop soldiers there for one year wire on another piece just there. So I'm going to dip. They hear why in flux, Central phone holds the end of the air war against soldier. He chucked the wire. They go on and it's melted on the bottom there already. Andi, if I show you the difference, they see why doesn't have any soldier on the bottom. This one does. You can see the proper soldier on there. So I moved us across a little bit. Give you a better view of what I'm doing. I won't. I think want It's a lineup just there. You left that out the way a moment. I'm gonna put heat into the actual earing the ovals. That's the biggest piece of silver. Only the most heat. So, uh, trying to get everything to stay still my go. You might have seen a little flash of melts and silver liquid silver appearance around the edge of that year. Why? But you can see that's all now securely holds. So it in place Put that in the question. Watch to cool it down on such up. The second airing. Okay. Next year. Why in the tweeze is dip it in the flux? Flux is just as shocked, I promise you, it is there. It wouldn't work without that. Okay. Now, as I held, the, um, hear why up against soldiers so it actually flew in at the top usually goes on the underneath, so I'm going to have to do. And a pair of tweezers is actually move the tweezers about. I can't do this with her by hand. It's hot. So there we go. It's on the social is now on the young. Denise there. I wanted to pay again. Just make sure that everything's neatly lined up. Yeah, Every now and again, these talks just gets a little bit temperamental about likely. Yeah, and there was a nice liquid flash off soldier. I just had to keep everything still until the, um Awad with stock soldier had gone to solid again. So So now they being koot. These hearings can go in pickle to clean up. You can see there's not too much optimization because they do really being heated up a couple times before on some of the copper content from the surface of being taken away, and therefore there wasn't as much copper to turn copper oxide, so those were going to go in to be cleaned up. Andi. Then I'll show you how to bend the wires round fish off the earrings. 11. Layered Ovals Earrings - finishing the earrings: hearings and they finished. They've all been cleaned up in the pickle on, and they now need to the ear wide spent around so we can actually wear them. So first I'm going to do is use the night on your applies just so make sure that the wire is nice and smooth and straight that there are no kinks in it. Remember, the night on will mean that I can grow up onto the while Swede it out without actually leaving any extra marks on it. E stone. And then, if I hold him back to back, making sure that their level at the bottom just going to make certain Uh, no, they're not level at the top. There's a little bit of access that needs to be snipped off one of them, but I can see why. Chairs, if you look inside the earrings, that one that I actually sort of slightly further down in this one. But when you wear them, that's not going to be noticeable. It'll we'll be fine. So let's say I'm going to do okay so much you gotta file the ends now. You I usually show you bending the while round into a u shape aan den finding the ends. But just to show you that you can do different bits of this job in the different orders and father first this time I use my fingers to make sure that they feel smooth as well as look smooth. You don't want rough. It's a metal going through the holes in your ear. So just farthing in smooth. Good. I want soon as well, So the next job is actually bending around. Form you shape Andi. I'm going to use the middle step on the steps. Mandel. Andhra members I always say you don't have to use a special Mandel like this. You can use anything that's around you, even if you wanted to used across the handle of the hammer or past the handle. This applies. I don't want these pain too low. Yeah, happy with that with that kind of drop. So from happy with how it is front, I'm not going to do anything else other than bank. Anchor that front section with my thumb and then use my fingers to bend around the wire that the back to finish off the U shape on the other one and to bend a little bit slower, start to bend it on, hold the hearings up against each other. This front section here is still a bit too long. So I'm going to put back home on and then pull the front around the Mandel a little bit more to get them. He'll be shortened. I'm happy with how they are matched up now. So again, he's my thumb toe. Thank the front in place and then pull. But why around it the buck Show me shape Two things to do next to things, stuff to do. I'm going to use the flat nose pliers. Just a hoat. Do you think so? The wits of a flat no supplies against the end of the wire and just twist some backwards slightly to put a kink in the wire. I always use the same pliers for doing this job. I hold him in the same way each time so that the wits of suppliers are the guide to how much why I moved back. And then I always know that my earrings we're going to match on the very last year before hushing hearings is to Hamma Justice Front section here to give strengths about U shape. I don't have all the way around personally because I don't like toe hammer the part that goes to my ear. Just gonna Hamas that front section there That will be enough to strengthen the shape. So I'm hammering on top of steel block on top of another cushion. I just holding the main section, the earing off the edge so that that doesn't get damaged. 2nd 1 too much eso nearly finished last ST I need to do is to polish them on. I'm going to put them in my tumble polisher to give them a nice shine. But you could equally use a polishing cloth if you wanted to that we just take a little bit more elbow grease. 12. Layered Ovals Earrings - final thoughts: saying this at the end of the video classes, but I'm really pleased with how these hearings have turned out. I think I might have found another favor. Apparent aware there a nice, long, elegant shape, very flattering shape to where this is also designed. That is going to be very easy for you to adapt the sinkerball, different textures that you would put on the top. Overall, you don't have to hammer. You could use design punches instead if you wanted to, or even if you go sack sister Rolling Mill, you could put a road texture and in boss texture on top over. Do you remember Start load equipment list on and the hints and tips to help you get the best of soaring on. Remember the time here. If you have any questions as well. I'm really looking forward to seeing what you make. So please upload your photos, the project section of the class. And if you could leave a review for other students to see, that would be great. Thank you for watching