Knitting 101: The Basics for Beginners | Melissa Warren | Skillshare

Knitting 101: The Basics for Beginners

Melissa Warren, Graphic Designer + Knitting Fanatic

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12 Lessons (37m)
    • 1. Intro

      0:41
    • 2. All About Yarn

      4:35
    • 3. Knitting Tools

      3:14
    • 4. Casting On

      3:02
    • 5. Knitting + The Garter Stitch

      3:05
    • 6. Purling + The Stockinette Stitch

      3:51
    • 7. Casting Off

      3:15
    • 8. Weaving In: Garter Stitch

      2:59
    • 9. Weaving In: Stockinette Stitch

      2:51
    • 10. Gauge Swatches

      5:28
    • 11. Adding Colors

      3:03
    • 12. Project Intro

      0:51
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About This Class

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Knitting 101: The Basics will teach you the skills every beginning knitter should learn. You will learn how to cast your yarn on and off your needles, the knit stitch, the purl stitch + how to weave in your ends once your project is finished. Additionally, you’ll get a brief run down of the different types of yarn available to you, learn how to use a gauge swatch to customize your project and learn how to switch colors or add more yarn as you move through your project. Step-by-step videos will show you how to execute each skill. By the end of this class you will have knit up a cozy scarf, perfect for those fall + winter days. You will also have the basic knitting knowledge needed to tackle any project you decide to take next! 

Transcripts

1. Intro: Hi, everyone. Welcome to my sculpture class, knitting 101 My name's Melissa, and I'm here to teach you the basics of knitting. Once you have these skills locked down, you leave the tackle. Any knitting project that comes your way. A couple things that I love about knitting is that it's a great way to de stress. After a long day of work, you could do it literally, anywhere, and it's a great way to express your creativity In this class. You learn how to knit Pearle cast on and off your needles and how to leave in your ends at the end of your project. The project for this class is a simple scarf. That's quick, Turn it up and super snugly for those winter days are a hyper air conditioned office. If you're ready to start your knitting journey, joining me in the next video 2. All About Yarn: there's so much trying to choose from that. Picking the perfect urine for your project can be a little overwhelming. Let's quickly go over the two main characteristics of yarn, as well as how to read a yarn label to help you narrow down the search. First yarn fibers there three main types of yarn. The 1st 1 animal, Sybers will, is the most common under this category, but it also includes fibers such as cashmere and still their natural fibers. They're super warm and cuddly, which makes them a great for fall or winter wear. The next category is plant fibers, and that includes cotton, linen and bamboo. They're lightweight and breathable, which makes them great for warm weather. The last category are artificial fibres, which are man made fibres, including acrylic, nylon and rayon. The mimic natural fibers and are super durable. And if that isn't enough, they're also blends of every type of yarn. Well, an acrylic, yes, cashmere wool and nylon. For sure. When you're just starting out knitting, though, I would recommend it using either wool or acrylic, because they're gonna be on the cheaper side and more widely available. Another main characteristic of yarn is yarn. Wait. They're eight different yard weights, starting from zero. They are laced weight fingering or sock weight sport DK worsted or Aaron. Bulky, super bulky and jumbo. When you were first beginning knitting, I would recommend that using anywhere between worsted and super bulky because they're on the thicker side. Which means it will be easier to hold on to you when you're learning the stitches. And you'll also be able to knit up your final product quicker. All of this information comes together on the yarn label, along with a few more bits of information. Was can be a little confusing when you first get started. So let's go over what you will see on yarn labels. The first thing that you will probably see is the yarn wait symbol. It's not always there, and that is totally OK. Yaar name Every dire will have a yard name for their different weights and blends, and that will be listed on the label so you can identify what you're buying fiber type and content. This is gonna list the type of fiber yarn is made of, and the percentage of different fibers. If there's more than one weight and length. It's okay if the yarn went. Symbol isn't shown because it will most likely be listed somewhere else. It will also list the amount of yarn included so that you could easily calculate how much you earn you're gonna need for a project. Need engage. Useful. If you have a pattern already picked out that states with a gauge should be I'm not actually sure of every use this information. But you could use this information as an estimate to see where you might land. If you're gonna be netting a gauge swatch needle size on every yard label it lists recommended needle size. This information is listed in both US needle sizes as well as millimeters care instructions . This is how you should wash and dry your finished product yarn color. Every color will have its own name. If they're similar colors, you could match names to make sure you're buying the color that you want. Die a lot number. This isn't on every label, but for yarn were there are lot numbers. It means of the yarn was died in different batches and therefore the colors or the amounts of color might very between them. So if possible, definitely get the same lot number. You're probably wondering, where can I buy all this yard? You do have a few options when it comes to purchasing yard. One of the first places to check out is your big box craft store, such as Michael's or Hobby Lobby. They're gonna have everything that you need to get started. However, I do find that their yarn colors are a little bit limited. Your second option. It would be your local yarn shop. Just do a quick Google search to see what pops up around you. They have a ton of options when it comes to yarn, and you're sure to find something that will work for you. The third place that you can look is online, and there are tons of websites that sell yarn. Yarn. Shops all over the country have their websites up, but a few of my favorites are yarn dot com, NIT picks and eat sleep in it because they have a huge selection and can accommodate anybody's budget. So you're sure to find whatever it is that you're looking for. Now that we know the ins and outs of yarn, join me in the next video. We'll go over the tools that you'll need to get your project 3. Knitting Tools: Hi, everyone. Welcome back in this video, we're going to go over the tools you need for knitting. Did any project. There are a few things you need to get started and finish it up. I'm gonna show you what you need to complete your class project as well as handy items that are good to have for whatever may come up. First, you're gonna need some straight knitting needles. They typically come in around 10 to 14 inches long. Your pattern or your label will list what needle size is recommended. I recommend getting wooden or bamboo needles. The surface of the wood will grip the yarn better, and your stitches won't side off as easily as they would with metal or plastic needles. I bought a complete set of bamboo needles from etc. For super cheap yarn, you literally cannot knit without it. A measuring tape. This is the easiest way to measure any project, and you'll need this. If you want to measure the length of any larger project scissors, you only these to cut your yarn, and the yarn ends at the end of your project. A tapestry needle. Once you finish your project, you'll have at least two ends that you'll need to even try to find a needle with a curved And as this will help you grab this stitches easier when you're trying to navigate the stitches. Those five items are everything that you need to complete your project. The rest of the items I'm going to talk about aren't required, but they do come in handy, blocking pins if you're gonna block a swatch or final project. These help keep the fabric in place while it's drying. They also help pinpoint the beginning and ends of rose or stitches for counting gauge swatch and needle sizer. This is great for two reasons. One. You can lay it over a gauge swatch to easily count your rows and your stitches, and you can also use it. Teoh. Figure out what needle size you have, especially if the numbers have been worn off. You're not quite sure what size millimeter translates to stitch markers. There are two main types of such markers. Their rings that slide onto your needle and there are classed stitch markers that you can clip onto your knitting as well. A slight onto your needle. I use these to mark pattern repeats the front or back of fabrics if I need Teoh, the beginning of Rose or borders or anything else that I came up with. I also like to use them to count rows so I don't have to recount every time I need an update. I just clip it on Teoh every 10th row for examples when I just count the stitch markers to know where I'm at point protectors. Totally not necessary, but definitely lifesavers. If you find that you've dropped stitches, will storing your project or while you've transported your project to a different location , these just slip on the ends of your needles and keep your stitches in place. I have not put these on my needles before and have definitely regretted it later when I've dropped multiple stitches and have to go back and fix it. If you think you might travel with your project, these air definitely worth investing in. You're probably wondering, where do you get all of these items? You can get everything listed here at the same place that you get your yarn. Once you have your yarn and knitting needles and hand, you're ready for our next video. We'll show you how to cast on 4. Casting On: in this video, I'm gonna show you how to do the long tail cast on, which is a pretty Bristol cast on that could be used on almost any project before you start . A good rule of thumb is to measure your urine tale to be about one inch per stitch plus six inches so that you can ensure that you have enough yarn to cast on all of your stitches. And we've been at the end of your project. This is where you're going to start. You're slipping up, all right. To begin your cast on, you're going to want to make a slipknot. So to make a slipknot, you're gonna take your yarn, make a loop and pull the yarn through the middle of that loop. You're going to slip your needle through the second loop that you made just gonna tighten it up. You don't want it to be too tight. You want to still be able to slide on your needle? This is gonna be your first stitch. Next, you're going to separate your yarn tail and you're working yarn. You're gonna hold it like this and you're gonna have your yarn till wrapped around your thumb and the working yarn wrapped around your pointer finger. And I'm just holding it at the bottom with the last two fingers, so keeps it together nice and tight. Um, so you're going, Teoh, take your needle. You're gonna hold your urine like this and you're going to go to the outside of the thumb and you're going to go under that strain of yarn and you're going to make a loop. And then you're gonna go to the outside of the point your finger under that yarn and you're gonna pull that yarn through the loop that you made with your thumb. You're gonna let go of the loop on your thumb. You're just gonna tighten it up. Let's do it again. Let it go. Now I'm showing you how to cast on 12 stitches, but you'll want to cast on the amount of stitches that your project red and calls for. And if you want to make your class project thinner or wider, you'd cast on more or less stitches. You also don't want to make these too tight as you're going for a couple of reasons. One is that when you go Teoh net your next row. It could be so tight that you won't be able to get your needle through, and it will be a struggle, and you don't want that. The other reason is that if it's too tight when you start knitting or pearling, your cast on edge might not stretch with those ditches. And so the end could be a little bunch together. There you go. That's 12 stitches cast on. So one way Teoh, make sure that while you're casting on your such is stay on the looser end is Teoh. Leave amount of space in between each stitch so that another such could fit in between that way. You know it's not super tight. It's not super lose. As you can see, it still slides along the needle. This does take a little bit of practice to get the hang of it and to really get the feel for how tight or lose you need to knit. So go ahead and practice your cast on when you're ready. I'll be waiting for you in the next video 5. Knitting + The Garter Stitch: Now that you've cast in your stitches, I'm gonna show you how to do the knit stitch. This is literally the first, such that everyone learns you're gonna pick up your cast on needle in your left hand, making sure that you're working yard is on the right. You're working. Yarn is the yarn that is attached to your yarn ball. If you look at the stitches in your hand, you're going to notice that there is a front and a back to the loot. You're gonna be knitting into the front of the loop, so you're gonna pick up your needle and you're good. I want to make sure you're holding your yard to the back. You're gonna insert your needle from the left to the right through the front loop, so insecure needle wrap your yarn from the back to the front. Pull the yarn through the loop on the needle and slide it off. Do it again. Insert your needle from left to right through the front loop. Wrap your yarn back to front, pull it through and slide it off. Keep going. Insert left to right. Wrap your yarn back to front. Will the loop through and slide it off. And you're just going to keep doing this until you reach the end of your row. Once you get the hang of knitting, you'll be able to whip through these rows. Once you reach the end of your bro, you're gonna turn your work and move the needle holding your stitches to your left hands so the working yard is on the right side again. You're gonna begin it in this road the same way and until you reach the end. - All right, so we've reached the end of the second row. If you continue to net every row, you will create what is known as the garter stitch pattern, which is a pattern with clearly to find wavy riches. Practice makes perfect. So give this Sister Wirral, once you're ready, joined me in the next video where I'll teach you how to Pearl 6. Purling + The Stockinette Stitch: the second stitch that you need to know to tackle any knitting project is the Purl Stitch. Pearling is essentially the opposite of knitting. Most people find this to be the harder stitch. But once you get the hang of it, I promise you it's really easy. As you can see, I've already met some stitches on the needle to get us started and to Pearl, you're going to basically do the opposite of a knit stitch. So you're gonna hold your yarn in the front and you're going to go through the loop the opposite way. So instead of going left to right through the loop, you're going to go right to left straight through the front You're gonna wrap your yarn back to front, and you're gonna pull it through the backwards through the loop and you're gonna slide it off. Let's do that again. You gonna go straight through the loop, wrap your yarn back to front, pull it backwards through elite loop on the needle and slide it off through back to front. Slide it up. If you keep hurling every row, you'll get garter stitch just like knitting every row because pearling is the opposite of meeting and it will create the same stitch in the opposite way. There we go. And that is your first row of pearly Now, as you can see, this doesn't resemble guard message at all. That's because I'm alternating rows of knits and pearls to create what is known as stock Annette Stitch. This is the second stitch pattern most knitters learn, and it creates a smooth and flat surface texture. You had a dio one row in pearl. So what? We're going Teoh speed through a row of knitting so that we can do one more row Purl stitch . All right, so this is your second row of pearling. So you're going to go right to left through the loop, wrap it around the back of the needle, pull it through and slide it off. Well, you knitting this pattern if you're ever unsure if you're on a metro or pearl row, Just remember that on a prole row of the bumpy side it will be facing you and the flat side will be facing away from you. There you go. So if you were to continue this pattern, the next row would be knitting. This pattern is actually reversible, and the opposite side is known as reverse stock in it stitch. And as you can see, it's kind of bumpy. Um, usually, this would be the wrong side of a fabric, but it can be the front. I have it on the front of a few of my sweaters that I've made. All right, So go ahead and practice your pearls, either pearling every road to get a garter stitch pattern or combining them with NIT rose to do a stuck in that stitch pattern. And once you are ready to move on to the next lesson where I will show you how to cast off . 7. Casting Off: your project can't live on your needles from er, so once you're at the end and you're ready to take your project off of the needles, here's how you're gonna want to follow this ditch pattern that you already have laid out. So if you are on a pearl row, you're gonna want to pearl those stitches. And if you're on a roll like we are right now, you're going on it all of those stitches. What you're gonna dio because you're gonna nit or pearl the 1st 2 stitches in your projects and much like casting on you're gonna want to keep these loose. So once you have your 1st 2 stitches that you're going, Teoh, slide the first stitch over the second stitch. You're always gonna have to needle or two stitches on your needles. So you're going to knit the next stitch. Now you have to say, you need to get one off. So you're gonna slide the first stitch over maybe the second sitch and you're going to repeat this So you have one stitch and you you need to get this one off. So do it again. You will keep knitting two stitches and sliding the first stitch off of your needle over the second until there's nothing left in it. And you only have one stitch left on your right needle. - Okay , so now you have only one such left. There's nothing else for you to nip. You are going, Teoh, Cut this yarn. You're gonna leave a six inch tail so that you're able to leave it in and you're gonna slide your needle out of this loop and you're gonna take the yarn and pull it through. So I'm actually not going to cut the yarn for this tutorial, and I'm just gonna put the whole ball of yarn through the loop. Consider this a bonus lesson on how to cast off if you forgot your scissors while traveling . Once you pull your yarn and tight, you'll have a fully secured cast off edge and are ready for our next video on how to leave in your yarns. 8. Weaving In: Garter Stitch: in this video, we're gonna go over weaving in any extra yarn tales you might have at the end of your project. At the end of every project, you're gonna have at least two yarn ends that need to be woven in your cast on and your cast off. You will want to leave your ends into the wrong side of your project, which is the side that no one will see. Technically, this isn't true for a scarf or blanket, because you can see both sides. But for projects such as a hat or a sweater or sacks, there is a wrong side because garter stitch is reversible. You can pick the side that you want to be the wrong side for your scarf. Your goal is to have your woven and ends mimic the stitch pattern. I'm gonna show you how Teoh follow the path of the garter stitch, using very contrasts a yarn so that you can see where the yarn is going. So I'm going Teoh, insert my yarn. I'm inserting my yard into the edge, but your urine will already be attached to your work and you will leave it in. From that point, he's gonna follow the wave, so I'm gonna go through it. This bump and I'm going to go down and then I'm gonna go follow it up through the next ridge bump that I'm gonna follow this one down. Now, keep in mind you will be weaving in with the same color yarn, but I am using a bright color so that you are able to see exactly what's happening and where the yarn is going. This will be essentially invisible in the same color down give a little tug, and that is the pattern for weaving in garter stitch. You're gonna want to make sure you go at least an inch so it has enough to be secure. It's not gonna come out. You can weave in more than one inch if you want to. You and you have a long enough yarn tail to do so you want to cut the remaining yard close to your work. Just make sure not to excellently cut into your fabric. You don't want to ruin all of your hard work. So this is the final woven in end for garter sich. And as you can see, there is a lot of bright pink on this side. Remember, this would normally be white. And if you flip this over, you can't see that much of the pain. If we had woven in the white yarn and you wouldn't be able to see it at all the next video , I'll show you how to weave into stock in that stitch. 9. Weaving In: Stockinette Stitch: Now I'm gonna show you how to even to stock Annette Stitch. As you know, stuck in that stitch is reversible and their two textures on each side. So on this side you can see the V's. And on this side, it's very bumpy. 95% of the time, this is going to be the wrong side of your fabric. So I'm gonna show you how to weave in Teoh this side of the fabric. And so again, you're gonna want to just follow the pattern. So as you can see, if you stretch it out, this loop is following this path. So let me show you again on the side, this path. So that's the path that we're gonna follow. So we just put the yarn through here. All right, so we're going to start here, Gonna go through here now we're gonna follow this loop so this loop goes through here through this stitch and then this stitch. So you're going to go, Dag? No. And you're gonna pull that through now you're gonna follow this loop. So you're gonna go through here and back through this loop diagonal that way. And now we're going to go back. Follow the next loop, so you'll go through the top and the bottom loops twice. So you just went through this one twice. So we're gonna follow it this way. Go through this one. The top loop. It's the second time through, and then you're gonna go back of this way, and then we're gonna go through here, there, and that's how you follow that pattern. When you're done, you're gonna want to cut your yarn is close to your fabric as you can. So this is the said that you open Teoh, and this is the right side. And as you can see, you really can't see the pink from that side, so you'll definitely not be able to see it when you're weaving in the same color. 10. Gauge Swatches: in this video, I'm gonna show you how to count the stitches for both garter and stock and at stitch and show you how to use that information to alter your pattern with or link all patterns that will give you a gauge that you should aim to hit when knitting your projects. These numbers are with the final pattern sizes based off of Basically, if you hit the correct gauge that you should end up with the same size. Getting the correct size is crucial when you're getting something like a sweater or hat because you want it to fit. But it's less important when you're needing something flat, like a scarf or a blanket, because you'll still be able to use that item even if it's a little shorter or it's a little wider quickly touch on how to count the stitches in both patterns learned earlier in this class stuck in it is the easiest gauged account, so let's start there in stuck in that stitch. Every V that you see is one stitch left to right Here you can see have highlighted four stitches. Every V is also one row up or down, and so here I've also highlighted four rows. Stocking it stitch is as simple as that. Garter stitch, however, is a little trickier, so don't let it fool you. Every bump on the top of a ridge is a stitch, but every bump on the bottom of a ridge is also a stitch. You're only gonna want to count the top or the bottom. Don't count both because you'll end up with double the stitch count because every ridge is made up of two rows, Row one wrote you when you're reading through your pattern, this is what you'll typically see when you get to the part about gauge. It's always something very similar to this. Your pet engaged will state how many stitches across you should have and how many rows down we should have. Gauged Watches are usually based off of a four by four square area or to buy to you area, with the idea being that your stitch and row counts will fit within that space. Your pattern will likely state the stitch pattern being used for the gauge, and that pattern is the predator annual. Monnin it for your swatch. Okay, so let's say you're using the same yarn way and the same legal size that your pattern calls for. You just want your project to be wider. In general, you will want to unity gauge swatch and use a little bit of math to figure out how many stitches to cast on to get your desired. So before you can count your gauge swatch, you're gonna have to net went up. So you're gonna want to knit up a four by four gauge swatch in the correct pattern with the yarn way and the needles called for. Bind it off when you're done. Once you have your swatch, you're ready to Congress stitches. And this is where blocking pins can come in handy. You're going to get out your measuring tape and measure two or four inches over from the beginning of one stitch. Place the pin at the beginning and end of that measurement. Count your stitches between the pins. Now that you have your stitches counted, you're gonna want to divide that number to get the amount of stitches in an inch. I need to divide my stitches by the inches. Measure to get one inch measurement. Now, if you want your scarf to be 10 inches wide. You would want to multiply the stitches you have in one inch by your desired with. So I need four stitches for every inch, which means I need to cast on 40 stitches if I want my scarf to be 10 inches wide. Once you have that figured out, you're ready to cast on. If you want to add length or know how long something might be after a certain amount of rose, you would follow the exact same steps. Except you would measure down instead of across your swatch. So what if you want to, you know, get your project exactly the way the pattern calls for, and you just want to see if you're gonna hit Gauge, you're gonna get up a gauge swatch using the yarn and needle listed, and then you're going to follow all the same steps. But you're not going to do the math. If you got Gage, meaning you got the execs ditch count and recount listed you can cast on. If you didn't get that, you're just gonna need to adjust your needle size up or down until you find your sweet spot . It might take you one or two tries to get it, but you'll get there. So what If you want to use a different yarn weight and different needle sizes, you found the perfect yarn, but instead of it being super bulky, it's worsted weight. If you were to follow the pattern and cast on nine stitches, it would probably only be 1 to 2 inches wide because your stitches are gonna be too small. So if you want it to be the same five inch with, you're going to need to follow the same steps we went over before, including the math you're gonna wanna net your swatch using the yarn and the needle size you have picked out. You're gonna measure the area the same way, and you're going to you. Account the stitches between your pins and use the math to figure out how many stitches you need to cast on to get your wit when you're ready. Joined me in the next video and we'll talk about the class project 11. Adding Colors: At some point you around of yard or you want to change colors, I'm going to show you how to add a new color. But the process is the same for both adding new yarn and new colors. So once you're ready, Teoh add a new color. You're gonna drop the yarn that you're currently working with, and they're going to insert your needle into the first stitch. You're gonna take the yarn that you want to add, and you're just gonna make a loop and you're gonna put the loop over the needle and you're gonna pull it through your last stitch. Now, it's gonna be a little loose to begin with, but you're just gonna want to continue knitting or pearling along your rose until you reach the end. It's all right. So you're gonna flip your work around and you're gonna nit back or pearl to where you just added your new color. - And once you get to the last stitch where you added your new color, you're gonna notice it's a little loose Nick or Perla. Anyway, slide your needle out and you're just gonna pull each strand a little bit just to tighten it up. the stitches were, You added. The new color will be a little lose at first, but they will become more stable. As you work through the next few rows. You want to cut your yarn of the previous color so that you have a six inch tail to even later, and you're gonna want to keep knitting with the color you just added. Keep knitting with your new color, and when you're ready to add a new one, make sure that you're adding it to the same side that you just added your new color to. This way, you could make sure that all of the ends that you need to weave in around the same edge if you're running out of yarn and need to add more, you don't have to wait until the end of a row to add it. You can add it whenever you're about to run out because you're not going to see the color jog because it's going to be the same color. Just remember to switch. Will you still have enough yards to even at the end 12. Project Intro: Hi, everyone. Welcome back. If you've made it this far, you're ready to start your class. Project your mission should you choose to accept it? Isn't it a super snugly scarf that's gonna utilize all the skills you went over in this class? There's a pdf pattern in the class project section, and the great thing is, is that you can customize it to your own style. She's wonderful colors and decide if you wanted it in garter or stocking net stitch. From there, you can customize it by making it wider, thinner, longer, shorter. It's up to you. And if you want to see the pattern exactly that, it's totally okay to your scarf doesn't have to be as crazy as mine. I get this up to show you what possibilities are when it comes to knitting. And if you would like more information on my class project or the project in general, check out the project section of this class. I'm excited to see what you guys come up with.