Knit a giant blanket, source wool and make your own huge needles | Cara Corey | Skillshare

Knit a giant blanket, source wool and make your own huge needles

Cara Corey, Knitter and overall do-it-yourselfer

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9 Lessons (42m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:54
    • 2. Sourcing materials

      5:41
    • 3. PVC pipe needles

      5:42
    • 4. Splitting roving

      4:46
    • 5. Felting for strength

      4:44
    • 6. First row chain

      6:21
    • 7. Knitting the blanket

      5:40
    • 8. Felting ends together

      4:15
    • 9. Binding off and finishing

      3:26

About This Class

Learn how to make a dreamy super thick and cozy knit blanket out of wool roving, plus tips and techniques for caring for these blankets. No knitting experience required! Knit and crochet designer Cara Corey will show you how to use a "table knitting" technique, forming the stitches with your hands rather than using knitting needles. 

You will learn everything Cara teaches to students (in a class that normally costs about $200), including how to save money by ordering from a site with bulk discounts. You can also substitute other jumbo yarns you find at craft stores. 

In this class you will also learn:

• How to source additional wool roving
• Where to buy giant knitting needles (if you decide you want them) and how to make your own giant needles out of PVC pipe
• How to graft ends together by needle felting
• How to care for the wool, and use felting to prevent it from fuzzing too much

Materials needed:

• 4 pounds or 2 kg of pure wool roving (I like to order from worldofwool.co.uk)
• Needle felting needle and square of foam for felting ends together (optional)
• Scissors

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: with ises Kara from Cari Corey Designs I'm really fun class for you guys today. This one is all about how to make your own giant knit blanket of full robing. You've probably seen these big blankets on Etsy or online somewhere. And if you have, you know that they're really expensive to buy. But they're so dramatic and cool looking that I wanted to show you how easy it is to make one yourself, but also give you some tips on how to find the wool, how to get it for less money, even how to make it go farther on how to make a different thickness of blanket. We're just gonna do a really simple net stitch, and in fact, you don't even need knitting needles to do this. So you don't need any experience knitting actually gonna lay out the wool on the table on Just use our hands to make the stitches. Every stitch is like 3 to 4 inches tall, so they're gigantic. And if you did want to use needles for this project, I also do a little clip on how to make your own knitting needles for giant knitting amount of PVC pipes So, um, I think we'll go ahead and get started talking about the materials on. I know you love this classes is absolutely one of my favorite ones to teach in person. And I'm really excited to share it with you here on school. Shit. 2. Sourcing materials: So when I start off talking about the material that you used to make these giant blankets, I'm using pure wool robing, which is basically will before it's been spun into yarn. So it's very loose and very fluffy, and as a result, it's very soft. The downside to that is that it sheds a lot. So at the end of this class, I'll give you some tips on how to felt the wool so that it lasts longer. Doesn't shed as much. Um, but I'll start off talking about the size of blanket we're gonna make in this class, which is a throw blanket, a good sort of couch Afghan type blanket. Um, it's about 30 by 50 inches, but you have to really loosely interpret that size because there is so much stretch to these blankets. So if I just hold up a little part of the blanket as soon as I as I hold it up and stretch it out, it'll just become much longer. Um, there you can see it. If I were to hold it from the other side, it would stretch the other way and become very wide, So I give the dimensions very approximately because of the stretch, but it's a really nice size, Um, and it takes £4 of wool roving will roving. It's usually sold by the pound rather than by the yard. I think a pound is usually somewhere like the 30 to 40 yard range that varies depending on where you buy it from as faras like how thick it is and how much you're. Did you get, um, I bought my wool from a website called World of Wool. It's in the UK, but they have incredibly fast shipping, and that's a bulk pricing. So the more you order, the more money you save. If you wanted to make a really large blanket, you would actually save more money or higher percentage than more you bought. But for £4 I think it's about $30 a pound, something in that range for the indicted wool. And then it's a little bit more than that For the dyed wool. There's usually a difference in price died versus un diet, and this is a merino wool very soft merino wool. If you see Mike Grands listed next to Wall, that that has to do with the softness of the wool in the density of the fibers. So a lower number is softer and usually for the kind of wool that you use for these blankets at somewhere in the low twenties. For my grounds, you can also order will from a lot of sellers on etc. And there's a lot of variation and price there. And you also want to really take into account the shipping cost since it's kind of heavy and bulky to ship. Um, but yeah, I would definitely expect to pay at least $30 a pound. Um, and maybe as much as 50 depending on where you buy it. Um, if you buy it from world will, uh, one cool thing is that this is actually the way to ship it. This is £4 they suck all the air out and put it into one of these bags. So you save a lot of money on shipping that way. Um, and they also tell you that the shipping time, it's like 2 to 3 weeks, but I almost always get mine in less than a week. So, good tip this world of wool. Yes, I have, like, over 100 colors to choose from, so I definitely recommend them. But if you want to pick somewhere, you know in the U. S. Or somewhere that's closer to you or using all American made fibers, you could totally find those sellers on etc. And other places on the Web. Um, but I like to just use the indicted wolf I can. It's really nice cream color, so that's what we're gonna use today. And if you wanted to make a bigger or smaller blanket, usually websites will tell you how many pounds or how many yards you need of their product in order to achieve a certain dimensionally. Get so you can either just do the math on what I've given you, or you can go by what they say on their site. Andi also just wanted to briefly mention another website called Color Ways Gallery, and I've ordered there, well, yarn before. Um, it's really great because they spend it a little bit to make the fiber stronger, and that way you don't felt it or worry about really doing anything yourself to make it stronger. Their yard, as a result, is a little bit thinner, so you will need more stitches to achieve the same with the blanket. And I think ultimately you might need another pound of yarn to achieve the same length is what I'm doing. Although I did try making a blanket with £4 of their yarn, and actually, I was able to get at least the size of blanket, maybe even a little bit more. So, um, I think because the yard that I'm using is so big, it's thicker. And so it doesn't go quite as far. Um, I think that's all I was gonna talk to you about as far as materials. Um, I'll provide a little bit more information in a pdf along with his class. If you have any questions about where to buy these or what website to go to, you can just look on that. So now we're gonna go into the next part. 3. PVC pipe needles: okay. I just wanted to do a little segment on knitting needles in case you do have knitting experience and she would like to knit this, like of the traditional way. Um, you can find super gigantic committing needles online and on a lot of Etsy shops used to be almost impossible to find needles big enough. But now that this new thing has become so trendy, you can find a lot of sellers that have these gigantic knitting needles. One thing you want to look out for is knitting needles that are too small for a project this big. So a lot of times, even people who are selling well robing will sell knitting needles that are like a size 50 which used to be the biggest you good find anywhere. But it's actually only about an injured engine 1/4 thick on when you're talking about stitches that have three inches of air in the middle, that's not gonna be big enough. So you need to find a knitting needle that's like a size 100 or 150 some something that big or something that's about two inches in diameter because that's that's like the minimum of space such you'd want inside every stitch. So this is an example of my father in law Actually made these knitting needles for me. It's kind of amateur woodworker, um and so he made me a set that is circular set connected by a tube on. And that's a really nice way toe work on this project. So you don't have this metric bulk with the straight needles on. I would definitely recommend looking for a set like this. If you have the money to invest in a more expensive Sentamu knows, that's probably gonna be 40 or 50 bucks something like that. If you want to save a little bit of money, you can actually go the hardware store and get some PVC pipes and make your own set. My husband actually helped me make this set right here of knitting needles. So this pipe is 1.5 inches that actually says so on the side, and that's referring to the width on the inside of the pipe. Um, so if you include the thickness, the hole diameter is closer to two inches, so that's a really good size pipe to get to make your own you basically just need one piece of this PVC pipe cut into two lengths, and a lot of times will either cut it for you at the hardware store. You can even cut it yourself. I think this is about 30 inches long and tried having longer ones. And they were just so bulky and hard to work without, actually, have my husband cut them shorter. Um, you can squish the aren't enough that it will fit on here if you wanted to make a larger blanket. Um, basically, you get to in caps and two teas and you just put a t on one end and a cop on the other end and you have your needles. Um, and even though this is not pointing like a traditional knitting needle, it has this kind of lit to it, so your stitches won't fall off the edge, and they won't fall off this end because you have a t on there. Basically, you would just net the same way as you would. Any other piece you would cast on your stitches and just place them on the knitting needle in tight knit do a very simple cast on, and so on the once you have all your stitches on here, you can kind of rest these needles into your lap or on a table my other day and just net using your hands mainly. So I actually kind of put the stitch on the next needle and then use my fingers to kind of push the yarn through and place it on the new needle. And so I'm always working at the very tips of the needles, and I'm really, really using my cans rather than the needle itself on. And it works really well. It might be a little slow going, but it's going to give you a more even result than the table knitting that we're doing for our meeting would so definitely give that a try if you have knitting experience. I did want to mention that I don't do our knitting for this class because it's really tough to squish all of those stitches onto your arm. If you're using will robing that's this thick. By the time you get an off stitches on there to make a whole blanket, you've got really, really squished on the larger part of your arm, and so it's you know your wrist a small, This is bigger. It's hard to get those stitches even. And then, as you're working back and forth the blankets getting heavier and heavier and blow Keir and bulkier and it's just is not very comfortable. So I love this sort of called table knitting method because you don't have to worry about carrying those stitches on your arms at all. If you're gonna make something smaller, like a cowl you could definitely use will robing. And then you just only like 45 stitches and hold those on your arms and it would work really well, actually. Havenaar knitting class on skill shares so you could totally use will robing for that leader in the class. I'm going to talk to you about splitting it in half to make a thinner yard, and that would really work well for arm knitting 4. Splitting roving: So I wanted to mention, um the concept of splitting your roving to get a thinner yard. Um, it's something that some people do to save money because I always say if you split the yard and half, you get a lot more yardage for the money. But also just because the stitches from pure Rob will roving that that nothing has been done to it are just so gigantic that you might actually want something a little bit smaller and thinner. Um, so you actually can just take the fibers of this wool and kind of find a middle spot I found almost kind of naturally happens. Um, where where those fibers are just kind of splitting in half. And you could just kind of gently pull them apart and just keep pulling until you got quite a bit of yard going. And the end result is a yard that's more like this thickness. And I think that's a great thickness toe work with, um, it's a really great one for arm knitting projects that are a little bit thinner. You could do hand crush A with it, which is another class I have on school share. Um, just playing old inning. You know, you could make a blanket. That's just a little bit dinner. You would still be really dramatic and cool looking, but you would need to add more stitches to get the same with. And when you're pulling your yarn through, you just wouldn't pull quite as much through to get smaller stitches. Uhm, and another thing that you could dio his felt your yard a little bit. I can't remember if this one has been faulted or not, but I know that I did take one in the house after I spoke this yarn and melted it in my washing machine, and it just gives it a little bit of a sturdier texture that'll hold up a little better, Better with less buzzing. So, um, this is like the £4 if you split it in half, you get this much, um, so you get the same amount of length, but it doesn't go as far because it's, you know, you have to do more stitches to get the same length. Um, I do want to mention that if you split your roving as you're going along, it's eventually going to start to twist on you entangle, so you need to go really slowly and you need to kind of separate it into two piles as you're going, Um, and you probably aren't going to be able to get through the entire £4 without cutting it and starting over because it's just gonna twist entangle too much. You probably get some some places where, instead of being evenly half in half, it starts to get like one size, you know, 60 40 on DSO. You may need to stop and cut it and start over. Or you may need to kind of move over some fibers to another side. Or you might just get peace like toughs that kind of stick out that you might just want to remove. So it's an imperfect process, and it probably will not result in a yard that's 100% the same with all the way through. But it is an option that I think is really nice. If you want to make your yardage, go a little farther or like I said, making something that's not so super gigantic and thick, there are a lot of yards out there that are kind of similar and thickness to this, and they're very expensive. So I think if you could make your own, that's a good way to save money. And then one more thing I wanted to mention on the materials front is that if you're allergic to wool, there are options out there that are acrylic or will free and world of wool has a little section on their website that sells, you know, a similar yard that's will free. That will work really well. For this. The colors are a little bit different. It's a little bit shiny er and texture, but I think that's really cool. But that's an option now. And also last fall and winter, I noticed that some Michael's craft stores were carrying a yard that was very similar looking toe wool roving. But it was also acrylic, so you can look for that. They're usually season. Also around the fallen winter. You could look for those gardens in stores, and usually they cost a little bit less. Or you could use at least use, you know, sales and coupons to save money on those yarns, 5. Felting for strength: Okay, The last thing I want to talk about, um and it's pretty important is, um, what you can do to strengthen this wool so that it doesn't fuzz and shed so much. Um, one thing about wool is that even though it has this incredible strength, um, when you pull it close together, um, if you were to pull it from farther away, it just comes apart like that, just like it takes nothing to pull it apart. It's so incredibly soft. So, um, you want to be careful when you're working that you don't poll two ends from really far apart and just in general, when you're taking care of it, you know you can pull on it close together, but just don't pull from far away. Um, basically, there's a few things that you can dio in terms of felt ing to get your piece stronger. So felt ing is just like we're doing before binding the fibers together. If you've ever accidentally washable sweater, you know what happens, it shrinks. It gets more, um, solid. And it's not a soft anymore. Um, so you trade off some of the softness for more strength. Basically, you can literally. Just roll this between your hands or go like this, and it will start belting immediately. That agitation, just from touching it, is going to start making it stronger. So before you even go to knit your piece, you could actually run this whole length of yarn kind of through your hands like that to make it a little bit stronger. Or another thing you can do is get like a terrycloth towel, and you can roll it like this on top of a towel. Or like you're wearing jeans, you could do it like on your knee on your lap. Just roll that yarn, like underneath your hand, and the motion of that is gonna felt it. Now it will tighten up the piece so it's more closer to rope, and it will lose some but softness, but it won't shed as much. So those are some things you can do before you even get started, Um, to make your yarn tougher. Another thing you can dio, and it's a little scary is you can throw this entire thing in the washing machine, run some cold water on it, and then skip to the end of the cycle. that's just spinning only and spin out all the water. And basically, what will happen is as it's going around and around in the washing machine, spinning out the water. It's also agitating it, but it's not enough. And because it's cold water and it's not running through the whole cycle, it's just spinning it out. Um, it's enough to agitate it and felt it lightly, but not enough to felt it to itself or to turn in tow. One gobby mess. It'll just basically what happens is when it comes out of the wash. It's very, very skinny looking. And so if you hang it to dry and like a drying rack, um, it'll eventually fluff back up. So it's kind of like a style. I call it a spin and fluff. And one thing you know, you definitely want to be careful. You're using the washing machine. You don't want to use any kind of regular cycle. You just are spinning the water out. Um, if you happen to take it out and it's like too tight, you know, it's it's like this and you don't want it that tight. You can literally use your fingers toe pull it back apart and fluff it up again. So, um, it's a very forgiving fabric, despite, you know, the fear of shrinking it too much. Um and you can even when you get your whole blanket done, Um, throw that in the spin cycle, get it wet first, and then spent out all the water, and I will do the same thing and all kind of shrink it up, but it will fluff and agitate, And then if you let it air dry, it'll kind of fluff back up to its full thickness. Um, so I have not done anything to this blanket, and I think it is absolutely gorgeous. Um, I'll have to see over time if, as they use it, if it gets too fuzzy, fuzzy and fluffy. Um, but if you like it like this, just leave it that way. Just see how it goes for you. You don't have to do any kind of felt ing to it if you don't want Teoh. Um, and then over time, if it's bothering you and you want to throw it in the spin cycle and to see what happens, or if you want to do a light felt ing in your bathtub. Definitely. Give that a try and see if that helps to get more life out of your blanket. 6. First row chain: Okay, you will need a pair of scissors for this project. And the only other thing that you might need is a felt ing needle and a little piece of foam. And we'll talk about that in another segment. Um, if you buy from world of wool, you can get your wall in one long length and you won't have to felt it. But if, um, you buy it from another place where you know all £3 or all £4 or indifferent links, you will have to connect them. So that's what I'll show you with Thief Eltingh Needle later. But otherwise you just need will. So to get started. I like to tie a knot in the end of my wall just cause it's plays out so much at the end. I just wanted Teoh you nice and even. Um And since we're just using our hands here, we're gonna actually borrow a little piece from Crow Shea. And for our first row, we're going to make a chain. So the first thing you need to do is make a slip knot, and that's just a adjustable. Not in the way I do that is, I leave myself a little bit of a tale to get started and maybe, like a foot long, we'll wrap that uhm yarn around my hand until it crosses over. And then behind that in the back of my hand, I'll push a loop through like that and then I'm just gonna let my hand out of there and tighten that loop. And so that's your slip, Not it looks like that actually going to pull some more yarn out any time you're working on this project, you always wanna have a lot of loose yarn ready to go. So if you've got it rolled into a ball or if you've got it in a pile, just make sure you have, like, a good amount of loose yarn ready for I would say enough to do an entire row at any given time. Um, so turn your work over so that your tail is on the right and you're working. Yarn is on the left or another way to do it would be toe have your working yarn overhead. Um, I find that when we get to the other parts of this project, since I'll be working back and forth left to right. Having your yarn up here is actually good because you can feed from either direction. So anyway, you're going to make sure that every loop has got like, I sat around three inches of air in the middle of it. Enough to stick your hand through, because that's what you're gonna be doing for your technique. So you kind of hold onto the not with your left hand and you reach through with your right hand and you reach for that working yard, which is the long part of the yard, and you grab the yarn and pull a loop through. And so that is what a chain is when you go to make all of your next chains, what you do is kind of move your left hand up and pinch the bottom. And that way you can't make this loop any bigger or smaller. So when you go to make the next loop, hold on tight to it at the bottom, reached through with your hand and pull through another loop. And so if I lay this down flat, I can already see that it's starting to make what I call a chain. And if you crow Shea a project. That's how you start any first row is making a chain. Basically, what you're gonna do is hang on to the bottom of that loop, reach through and grab another one. And you just keep doing that until you have 12 loops and the way that you can count those is just count the top of every one of them. Um, do you want 12 Plus? You want the one that's sticking out to the right on the end? So you're not gonna count that one? This one is going to actually stand up and be the first loop of your next row. So that's why you don't count that one. So we've got four so far, so I'm just gonna keep going until we get 12. Make sure I always have a lot of extra yarn ready to go. So I'm just gonna count to make sure that I have the right amount. And if you don't know how to count, if you turn this over, you can tell this is the backside because it kind of has a line running through the middle so that I don't want to count. I want to flip that over to the front side and count this way and, you know, in Crush A you kind of look for what I would call V's like this is a V and this is a V. So I think it's easier. Just count the top of every V. So 1234567 89 10 11 12 plus my loop. That's kind of sticking out to the side. And that's how you know I have the right amount to get started. Now. I've done these loops pretty loose, and that will not affect me too much in my final product. Um, if you make them very, very tight, and a lot of people just have a tendency to work tight tightly in knitting and crochet a um , what's gonna happen is it's going to cinch in the bottom of your piece and is going to make the bottom of it looked tighter. You can use your hands to kind of stretch it out once the pieces done, but ultimately, if it's super super tight, you may not be able to get rid of that. Um, that sort of like bowed and to it, So just be aware of that when you're making your crush a chain. And if you feel like it's really a lot tighter than this and there's really no room inside those stitches, you might want to undo it and start again. Okay, so for in the next row, we want to start over here. 7. Knitting the blanket: Okay, so we are ready to start the regular knitting part. And this is what you will be doing for the entire arrest of the peace until you get to the part where you're binding off. So basically, what you're gonna do is take that loop that's sticking out to the side, and you're going to turn it so that it's basically the first loop of your next row. And then you're gonna take this yarn, that it has been kind of off to the right. And like I said, you can have your extra yarn kind of piled up in the middle. That's the year you're gonna pull from when you go to make your next stitch. So this loop here, you don't count, cause that's kind of like your number one. We're gonna go over to the next top of the V there for our second stitch, and basically, what you're going to do is you're going to reach through that stitch with your hands and you're just gonna pull up a loop of the working yard. And I don't know if you could really see that there. But what I am doing is using my thumb to pull the yarn through so that I am pulling from the working yard and not from this stitch. If I pull from this ditch accidentally, it's gonna tighten this stitch and make it smaller and tighter. And a lot of what happens to people is as they go up in the rose, Um, they get going faster and they start pulling the yarn from previous stitches and to the work gets tighter and tighter and kind of makes a triangle. So you definitely want to be aware of that. Make sure you're not doing that. And another thing you can do to make sure that you're not adding or taking away stitches is just especially in this first row. Look to see which one the previous stitch came out of came out of this one. So we're gonna work over to this one for our next stitch. So it's the same thing. You kind of just stick your hand through, pull up a loop and then use your thumb to feed the urn through and you want the stitches to be. Uniforms have just kind of try to make him roughly 3 to 4 inches tall. If you've got one of these, um, quilting or sewing? Um, measuring kind of mats. You can use that to help you determine the height of your stitch. I just kind of like toe eyeball it, but just try to make him all uniform as you're going down the row. So you go to the next one, pull it through and use your thumb. In this case, I'm using my right thumb. When we go to do the next row, we're gonna be starting in the left until you'll use your left thumb. If you're left handed, just switch and do it. Feels comfortable to you. Sometimes I've had left handed people that just feel more comfortable doing it the right handed way so they don't get confused. Um, but obviously, if you get to doing at the opposite of the way I'm doing it and it feels right to you, then just do it that way so you can kind of scoot your piece over, Has your working down the row see where it already came out of and go to the next one. Pull through with your thumb. This yarn is incredibly soft, merino wool. So you know it might have a tendency. Teoh, pull apart a little bit. Some of the strands might come loose, so just be careful. And if that's happening, slow down. That's my number. One piece of advice has just slowed down. When you're working, get nice, even stitches. And when you reach the end of the row, if you have any concerns at all that you might have gotten off counter stitches. Now you've got riel loops that are easy to identify, so you can just go down account and make sure that you have 12. So I've got 12 and I'm ready to go on to my next row. So for the third row, I'm gonna scoot this over. Like I said, you're starting left to right this time. So, um, again, having a lot of loose yarn ready to go at the top of your project is really helpful. You kind of open up this first stitch, get some nice air going in there. I think for the 1st 1 sometimes it feels awkward to me to use my left hand, so I use my right hand. But then, once I've got the loot pulled through, I'll use my left hand to kind of pull the rest of it. And then from here on out, I kind of got the rhythm going of pulling it through of my left hand and then just using my thumb to pull the rest of the yarn all the way through until I get a uniform stitch. And if it feels more right to push the yarn through rather than pull it, like with your fingers, you can do that, too. Whatever feels comfortable to you, all you're doing is making loops. So this technique doing the same kind of pulling a loop through on every row is going to give you that nice stock and debt stitch. Or normally, if you were using knitting needles, you'd have to knit and Purl no two different. Such is to be able to do this. So this is a pretty cool, easy, quick way to do this. And, um, you just continue using this technique all the way down the road, switch hands. You make those loops with your right hand as you go across, and you will just go until you have enough yarn for your last row. Um, and I will show you a little technique to figure out if you have enough 8. Felting ends together: okay. I wanted to talk about faulting ends together because this is a really cool thing that you can do with raw wool that you can't really do with other materials. Um, and since this is so thick, you know, you don't really want to tie and not when you have two ends to connect together. Um, so basically, what you do, if you have two ends to connect, is I like to cut the wolves where you have a very kind of square in tow work with. And then what you want to do is get ah, felt ing needle. Um, sometimes they come individually like this. Or sometimes they come in a little, um, device where there's, like, three or four. Um, either one of those will work. I'm just amazed the magic that you could do with one individual melting needle. Um, you may have to order these online. I've noticed it's really hard to find them in a craft store, but a lot of knitting stores will have them. Basically, it's a needle with a very, very fine point to it. Um, and what this does, is it, um with agitation poking the wool over and over. It binds the fibers together in just a incredibly strong way. And so it gives you a nice even connection that really won't come apart. So no, not or anything. That's really wonderful. Basically, you have to get a little piece of foam or they make these like, um, looks like a hairbrush, almost little surface tied to your felt ing on. And you absolutely have to have this cause these needles are super sharp and they need a soft surface to go into, um, but you can just use like this is just from a shipping container or something, just a little piece of foam. So basically, what you do is you kind of separate the fibers a little bit from the end and lay it out on your foam, and then you do the same thing with the other piece and lay it so there's like an intern inch and 1/2 of overlap because you're gonna bind those two sections together. So once you have your fibers laid on top of each other, basically what you're gonna do is start poking that overlapping layer with this felt ing needle and was he get comfortable with it you can kind of speed up a little bit, which this nail or this needle is very sharp, and you really, really don't want to poke yourself. So just be careful on Go Slow, which is talked for Pope four Pope until you start to see that those two layers air kind of finding together a little bit, and it happens very quickly, and basically what you can do is pick them up carefully and you can turn them over. And you can kind of start to use your fingers to roll them up a little bit. So you don't have such a wide, um, length there and sort of folded over itself and then start poking it again and just token poking poke until those fibers really bind together on both sides. And so you have one solid piece of yarn. Now, if you've got a little a few fibres sticking out on their bothering, you just go back on there and poke some more. Get it perfect, roll it all over and get all the different sides. That's incredible. It's like magic. How it just just poking it with a needle will hold it together. Um, you can smooth it out with your fingers, and you can roll it in in your hands a little bit or on your lap, and that will hold it together perfectly. So that's needle felt ing ends. 9. Binding off and finishing: Now I'm gonna pretend that I had enough yarn to knit the whole blanket, and then I did the whole thing until I got to the end. And one way that you can try to determine if you have enough yarn for one more row is to use the length from your risk to your elbow to measure the yarn that you have left. So if you take the yarn from your wrist to your elbow and fold it up, that's about one stitch worth. It's actually a little bit more so. This will kind of be a conservative way of estimating that basically, you could just pull out one length and one length in one length and see if you can get to 12. And if you can get to 12 then you have enough yarn to finish the whole last row. Okay, so what, you need to know toe bind off your piece? Um, it's really pretty simple. You're basically just going to knit two stitches and then jump one over the other, and that will close off one stitch and you do that and work all the way down the road. So to start like, say, that your last rose going from the right to the left. You admit two stitches and then you've got to put one inside the other one. So basically, the 1st 1 are you putting the 2nd 1 inside of the 1st 1? And if you lift up that 2nd 1 you'll see that the 1st 1 kind of flopped over and that bound it off. So now you have one stitch, and you need to have to in order to do this. So unit one more, take that 2nd 1 and put it inside of the 1st 1 Okay, so you can see it's starting to form that nice bound off edge. So you just repeat that process where you need a stitch. Put that stitch inside the other one, and then just move on down the road. And when you come to the very last stitch and you only have one stitch left, you're gonna cut off this yarn, leave yourself a little tail, maybe a foot long or so, and tie a knot in the end so it doesn't come unraveled. And then you just put that in through the middle of this loop and you just pull on it until it tightens into a knot and that will finish your piece. And basically, once you have that, um, foot long piece left, you can either cut it off completely or you can take it and kind of we've it into the back side of the peace like there's a lot of loops in the back that don't really shows. You can kind of tuck the yarn underneath a few of those loops and hide it. Um, you'll also have a tale from where you started, so you want to do the same thing with that. You can either just cut it off, or you can weave it into some stitches in the back to try and hide it.