Journals #03 - Building geometric patterns with blocks | Dearing Wang | Skillshare

Journals #03 - Building geometric patterns with blocks

Dearing Wang, I grew up with a pen in my hand.

Journals #03 - Building geometric patterns with blocks

Dearing Wang, I grew up with a pen in my hand.

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13 Lessons (58m)
    • 1. Introduction of Journal 03

      1:25
    • 2. Setting up page for single design

      2:25
    • 3. Constructing the structural grid

      4:52
    • 4. Inking the linework I

      3:00
    • 5. Offsetting the line work I

      6:13
    • 6. Offsetting the line work II

      3:27
    • 7. Inking the linework II

      5:53
    • 8. Inking the linework III

      5:33
    • 9. Adding Golden circles

      3:39
    • 10. Designing empty spaces I

      5:19
    • 11. Designing empty spaces II

      4:56
    • 12. Inking the linework IV

      4:49
    • 13. Adding final petal details

      6:39
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About This Class

What this class is about:

In this course Youtube Artist Dearing Wang will demonstrate his building block system by merging two diagrams learned from the previous courses Journal 01 & Journal 02. Combined with simple drafting tools you will learn to create more advanced designs.

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Dearing Wang

I grew up with a pen in my hand.

Teacher

Hello, I'm Dearing. I grew up with a pen in my hand. No wallpaper in my parents house was safe. Luckily, I also had a deep interest in science and philosophical questions. When I finished my Architectural bachelor degree at the Delft University of Technology I couldn't wait to join the internet revolution and share my passion for Philosophy and Geometric Art.

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Transcripts

1. Introduction of Journal 03: Hello and welcome to course Number three of the journal Siris. In this course, we're going to apply the principles that we learned in the previous two courses. We learned about different building blocks, very basic blocks. They're very easy to understand. We're going to put those building blocks into action. Combined to building blocks, we learns ah, on page one. And this desire is going to base be based on a three slash sixfold design. We're going to apply number 35 off our first page and the other diagram waas three circles contained within the container. And the radius of those three circles was toe have the size off the circle container. So we're going to merge these two into one single design. This is actually the bare bones off the whole structure, and you will see that just applying these simple building blocks and merging them into one single unit and applying some offsetting of lines, some detail ing simple kinds of decorations and applying a color to it and using contrast, it will just make a design come to life on, become visually appealing, going to start with the next part now and get first set up the page and in the page will be just consisting of one sir container and let's go and start the exercise. 2. Setting up page for single design: So Design 13 is going to be a single design on this page, and I want to position it at the exact center off the page. To do that, I have to find the center so that I couldn't position the circle container. I know that my notebook has a with off 22 centimeters in interests that is 8.86 and a height off 31 centimeters, or 12.2 inches. So if I divide these two values by two to find the center point A will have a value of 22.5 . Divided by two is 11.25 centimeters, and a height off 31 divided by two equals 15.5 centimeters. And I'm going to use these values to create a template so I can reuse it. The next time I'm going to draw the shape on a separate piece of paper paper that is a bit thicker than the normal type of paper. I'm going to cut out the template once have drawn the shape, and I'm going to place it in the corner and locate the center off the page. The next step is to draw the circle container at the center. I want I want the drawing to cover a large part of the page. So I decided to use a radius off about nine centimeters. That is 3.54 inches to be exact and have added a vertical axis going right through the center to further align it properly. And once I've set up the page and I've placed the container on the page, I can move on to the next stage. 3. Constructing the structural grid: Okay, We've started our page with a circle container. We placed it exactly at the centre off the page. And in this lesson, we're going to focus on the structural part off the design, and we're going to start with laying out the first model block. We are going t o very recreate all the steps that we have done and learned in journals one and it was designed number three. It was basically just a building block which consisted off three curves. In this case, I'm also adding the six full diagram on top of it. So actually, it's just a sixfold script on the lying this desire and I'm just replicating it in the mirror Fashion as well and the steps by themselves are quite straightforward. We've already run through them, so I'm not going toe go into its explicitly. If you want to run through the whole step and instructions off these building blocks, then you can go back and re watch Journal one specifically on the diagrams off number three and number five. I'm just going to a start with a normal pencil and just setting up all the required curves and the goal, Of course, is just to understand the relationship between applying or knowing how to create templates or how to create building blocks, as I like to call them and combining them in such a way that from there and you can build on top of it, very interesting details. - I also said that we need a six fold a grid, and that's because we are going to need it for the second diagram. And there was a diagram. Number five on Page one is and that specific diagram consistent off tree circles. Those circles War off, have the size. The radio's The Radius was have the size of the circle container, and we needed six points. Six harmonic points on the circle container toe. Find the guidelines, and we needed those guidelines to connect the these points the harmonic points. And from there on, we could find the middle power were using the Middle Path technique Toe division. Some divide the radius into exactly half, and in that sense we could find the half size circle positioned on the midpoint off each radius. And both of these diagrams, they all were attention to the mid point and to the to the soup container, especially on the first diagram that they're the curve went through the middle point and it crossed fruit years or container. And the second diagram had three circles, which was tension to the mid point and to the server container. And those were the characteristics off this diagram. And I'm going to just finish up all these steps. And we by then would have already have US structural grid, which is the most basic, most important part, actually, off this whole design. So you could ask yourself, Hey, this seems quite easy that the steps are straightforward. No, we have to do from now, and it's at some details. Some colors that would be done them basically. And that's actually exactly the whole case to be made is that geometry of geometric design can be very easy once you understand the underlying principles, the first principles that generate all these specific ratios off circles and curves contained in ah, in a circle 10 or even in a tiling. And that's the whole secret with at once you know it, it starts to become a much more easier, but you need the first basic steps. You need to learn that the template forms and from there, and once you've known that, you can start to combine them like you would using a puzzle or a Duplo system. 4. Inking the linework I: in this lesson, we're going to transition from a LePen Soto ink pen, and I recommend using a 0.5 millimeter tip. At least it helps to just create the contrast and make the lions pronounced and the lines that we're going to keep our obviously the lines that were based on the model off the building blocks. So we used to building block diagrams. And these lines are the allies that we're going to keep, including also the soup container and all the other lines. So the radius lines and the guidelines, of course not. And we're going to erase them later on, and this will help us just to clarify, are growing and to see where the empty spaces will be and which play which lines will stay permanent. It helps to clean up the drawing off course, and it helps to give an overview off where we are at at this specific moment. So I want to emphasize a, um, a technique that I always use, and that is, if you have no experience using a compass or you don't use it as often as I've done notice that I usually use two hands at specific moments just to make sure that the tip off the drawing compass doesn't move. And it just gives a extra stability, especially when the radius between the legs our, ah, a bit smaller. So when you're drawing ah, specifically smaller circles, it helps to use two hands a specific moments in time because it becomes a little bit unstable at that that distance it helps to just use two hands, certain points in time. And overall, it's just that thing toe. Remind yourself off is that when you feel that the stability off the needle is not as you would like it to be, it helps to use two hands. Just stabilize it and just use it as a security measure because it just helps who make sure that you don't create any errors because otherwise you have to off course start over again . 5. Offsetting the line work I: in this lesson, we are going to talk about offsetting and we're going to draw. Of course, the offset lines. If you haven't heard about offsetting before the technique off offsetting lines, it's something I've poured from engineering, especially drawing engineering, where we use computer aided designed to offset lines in certain software programs. For example, imagine a circle duplicates that circle and decrease the size and center it exactly at the same center as the original circle. If you have done that, you basically have offset the line. And that's a principle that can be applied to a partial circles or mean pressure curves. Or it can be applied toe straight lines as well or any other kind of line. And what you do is you actually create a line that is parallel to the original line, and if you measure the distance along that path, you would see that the distance is equal if you have done it correctly and we're going to apply that principle to the drawing as well, and I'm going to apply the Principle toe model Block Number three, which waas three pedals generated by three curves and these free curves are going to be offset by a certain distance. I'm going to measure that distance using a ruler. First, I'm going to just take the original size original radius off the circle. Then I'm going to just decrease that radius a few millimeters at something about 2 to 3 millimeters, just enough so that it won't be too much off a distance enough so that you can notice that there is a band with between. I'm going to use that distance throughout the course in destroying only need to offset three lines. Let's go ahead. And now that I have done that, what I'm going to do is I'm going to transfer form a lepen Soto a ink pen to finalize its with some ink, and I do the standard procedure. I marked their cross section points using a lepine so and helps me toe signal where the starting point and the end point is. And it just helps in general to to make the curve itself successful without any errors or hesitation. It just gives a guideline, and it's gives a visual cue where to start and where to hint. And if you follow my video throughout on YouTube, you you will know that I've down these techniques usually to, ah, help me guide within the process off thinking lines and just marking the crossing points and just a wonderful way to help your brain till tell your brain where to start, where to finish and then just execute that line way . 6. Offsetting the line work II: and we're going to continue using offset as in technique to apply some with toe. All the lines that were drawn show for the lines that we have inked with e ink pen and going to transfer again to a pencil first to draw all the offset lights. What I'm going to offset are the three circles, and I used the example of a circle to offset or to demonstrate how offsetting works using a circle. But I'm also just applying exactly just that. First, I'm measuring the radius off the original circle in sending media's, that is about 4.5 centimeters, and I'm going to use the same distance and decrease the size radius by about two or three millimeters. And I'm going to apply that to the three circles off the diagram, and that's actually older is to it in this video, and I'm also going to add 1/4 circle to the center, and I'm going to go into that a little bit later. But for now I'm going to just add some offset circles within eat three of the circles. - So I finished the last circle and we have have and we have added the offsetting we are going to add before circle in the centre. I'm going to use the reference point off the tip off the smaller pedal where the intersection is. And it also is where the radius off. I'm sorry about off the spokes also runs through that specific point. So you have multiple ways off controlling or just checking. If everything alliance correctly, and just at a circle at the centre and also I'm going to add a offset to it as well I'm going to add with that is a bit larger than the other offsetting that we've done so far on . But that isn't as important. Basically, that's something you can just very a little bit in this video. I'm actually measuring it and trying toe copy the exact with. But it's just slightly de first, and it comes out a bit different in It appears that the which is a bit larger, but it's okay. You can have another adjustment larger or smaller. That's another big of a deal 7. Inking the linework II: in this lesson. We're going to continue where we left off. I'm going to add some ink to the offset lines and you're starting to see that the lines are starting toe, overlap each other, and it's starting to be a little bit more complex visually, and that's why it's important to make reference points. First, I'm going to transfer from a pencil toe ink pen, and I'm going to add those lines afterwards. It's important for you to pay attention to where you're going to draw those lines. Otherwise you can easily make a overlap at certain points where you don't want them to be. That's why I emphasize using a reference point. So I have already marked the points between the two between their one curve that I'm right now drawing and you should be focused on where you start and where you're finished. And I'm just pointing and those reference point right now and then make the turn just to make sure that you don't overrun it and beyond that point and otherwise it will just ruin the whole set up. That's why again, I'm going to emphasize marked the beginning and end point, and then it makes things much more organized, and it won't make a mistake that easy. And, of course, also remind yourself off where the centre point is off the original circle and then make the turn. As you can see right at that specific moment, I already overrun it a bit and it wasn't a disaster. But still I make mistakes myself as well. So this is also a advice. Who, myself. You might notice that I overrun it at that specific tip off the right pedal. And that's why I'm just repeating it again and again marked the beginning in the end point and then make the turn way have done the line work the ink on their three circles on the inside. I'm also going to move on to the Centre Circle and also add the final Inkster and this one is a bit more challenging. The goal is to not overlap the pedals, so the pedals are going to be dominant and going to be on top of it. So make sure that the England won't cross and that's why it's important toe. Add those reference points and now that I've finished it, I'm going to just clean it up a little bit, especially the pencil lines where it overlaps the pencil or where it overlaps the pedals. I mean, and it just gives a more clearer overview off where are at at this moment in time, - Way , way. And you also notice, by the way, I'm using my left hand just to stabilize the needle and put a little bit of pressure sometimes. And it just helps to stabilize the movement. So those are my little quick tips Just to let you know how I sometimes try toe, make sure that the needle doesn't move. 8. Inking the linework III: we're still in the stage is off adding into the offset lines. And in this lesson, I'm going toe. Add those inclines to in a part of the pedals. The part, the difficulty he might be that the lines the distance off the lines are getting smaller, so make sure to make the markings. The beginning. In the end, points off a za reference. There's nothing new to this. It's matter off execution, and we are going to just transition. Once we've done the reference Point's going to transition to a ink pen. And make sure to remember where the anchor point is off your circles, of course, and make sure that the distance are lined up correctly. So once you put down your needle, just just a little bit to using the turning wheel to make sure that everything touches the exact point that are needed and then slowly fix with a left finger and just turn with the right hand. Be very careful when once you do this, we're in the stage where you don't want to make any mistakes. - Okay , uh, other thing I want to do in this lesson is at a offset to the circle container and the with is going to be again a few millimeters. I'm going to use a ruler to measure it up. Once I've done that, I can ah use a pencil to make the circle. So I want to be consistent and I'm using a two millimetre with and I'm going toe transfer to a mechanical pencil or transfer. I mean transition, and I'm going to make a offset. And once I've done that, I'm going to off course, use a ink pen to finalize those lines as well. And now that I've added those pencil lines, the next thing to do is add those reference points the beginning in the end point, and just to make sure just to make sure I don't cross those points, and I'm going to repeat that process again on the other sides as well 9. Adding Golden circles: in this lesson, we are going to add golden circles. Those are not metal circles. They are circles that I have a radius that is in proportion to the original container, which is 0.618 And I'm talking about the three circles from the diagram number five off page number one off our journal, Siri's. And we're going to add three circles in each of the separate circles, which has that specific golden ratio Circle radius. And I'm going to use just a calculator to multiply, then radius off the original container. And let's say that's 100% and I'll just measure that and in my example, in centimeters that is 4.5 centimeters. And I'm going to multiply that on my calculator by 0.618 and I get a number around 2.7 something, and I'm going to round it off to 2.8 centimeters. And that is the radius off those circles, and I won't go into why I chose the gold aeration. Specifically, I just want to say that it's a preferable choice one. Once you have the choice off, arbitrary Radius is to choose from and I have been always to go with the golden ratio and I might go into it. The psychology off the golden ratio and what affects it has in aesthetic sense. But for now, I'm just going to, ah, apply that radius to those circles and it's going to be on the background, so it's going to be positioned behind the pedals, so it's not going to cross over D pedals, and I'm going to start with a mechanical pencil to make those circles. Then I'm going to add something to it. 10. Designing empty spaces I: in this lesson. I want to focus on the empty space on the edges off this design. Now, in any design, you have to decide what you are going to do with empty spaces. Are you going to leave them as is, or do you want to fill ins with some design details and to make this interesting? In my opinion, it would be nice to add some details to those empty spaces. And what I want to do is use a simple design elements and which we have done already so far , and that is the offsetting. We are going to use three curves to achieve the kind of detail on it and have some bandwidth on those special areas. And those three curves are based on the smaller two curves and on the server container. The smaller circles need to be offset outwardly so they have to be created on outside and the circle contain. Each time has to be offset to the inside. That's the basic concept to achieve the detail ing. I want toe add to this drawing in this lesson, So let's go ahead. So the concept is clear and now I have to decide what the exact distance is off. Each offset, and I've decided to go with somewhere in between Ah, seven or 80.8 or 0.7 millimeters. It just gives enough space so it becomes visible, but not too much that with is going to be out of proportion. That's the four first thing. And then we have to mark the point along the axis, which divides this sea tale, of course. So it took me a few tries to get each curves correct. It's a bit of a challenge in the beginning, and you might just have more success immediately. But it's okay, toe. Give it a few tries if nothing goes right away. So I have those two curves which were extracted from the smaller two curves, and you will offset outwardly. And I'm going to use that with by measuring using a compass and transfer that with to the concert container, which has to be offset inwardly. And I'm just using a compass pitch could also use a rule for that. I'm using the with off the offset that I already have. It's about three millimeters and that's the with. I'm going to transfer to the upper part 11. Designing empty spaces II: in part two off designing the empty spaces. I'm going to continue where I left off the concept waas. I used the container circle and two smaller circles and used partial circle or the partial curve off that circle to create those or limitations off the empties to fill up the empty spaces. And I'm just going to continue where I left off. 12. Inking the linework IV: I finished all the lines in pencil and going to transition to a ink pen. And I'm going to recreate all the steps that I've done so far and place out all the lines that have made with a pencil. Just be very careful, as I've just mentioned before, mearkle the cross points, the reference points which indicate the beginning in the end point and at some control points where possible and then make your tracing. You don't want to make any mistakes, especially now this far in the design. I'll just leave the video play. Everything actually speaks for itself there , you know? - Yeah . 13. Adding final petal details: we are finishing off some final ornamentation, and I want to focus on the main pedals, the larger ones. In my opinion, there's a lot of empty space, so I'm going to add some extra offsetting just to fill up the space so we can later on at some different colors or shading to it. The way to do that is we're going to repeat the steps from the previous videos where we offset those lights. We need just need to occur. I'm just going to add some reference points, and I'm going to add the beginning and end points and the distance measured from the end through the reference point. It's about 1.5 centimeters, and I'm going to add those points. And once I have those points, I can start adding the curves with a pencil. And later on, I'm going to add some Final Inc to it. And also at the end part of this video, I'm going to add some small circles to fill up some space is, but you'll see that later on way my go to add a small circle, the justice size of about a to six millimeters. I think I'm going to go for the six millimeter, even a five millimeter radius, and I'm going to just added with a pencil and find later with ink. And once we've done that, the whole structure is done, and the next phase is just to add styling to it. And that part is a little bit more subjective, of course, the way you feel like you can go that anyway. With styling, of course, there's the right color style or more black and white style or any other variation. But if you want to follow low, you can go ahead. And what's the coming videos where add some colors to this, a final design.