Introduction to Wood Painting | Nicole Makes Art | Skillshare

Introduction to Wood Painting

Nicole Makes Art

Introduction to Wood Painting

Nicole Makes Art

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11 Lessons (38m)
    • 1. Introduction

      2:35
    • 2. Supplies

      2:43
    • 3. Background

      3:21
    • 4. Tracing

      4:28
    • 5. Transfer

      1:21
    • 6. Layer One

      4:26
    • 7. Transfer Two

      2:52
    • 8. Layer Two

      9:38
    • 9. Top Coat

      2:16
    • 10. Wrap Up

      1:20
    • 11. BONUS: How to Install Fonts

      2:33
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About This Class

Learn the basics of wood painting with this tutorial!

In this class, we will be covering the basics for how to paint on wood through a simple project that you can do with the whole family! We will cover what types of paint and brushes to use, how to pick the right kind of wood for your project, transferring designs onto wood, how to properly apply paint to complement the texture of the wood, and how to apply a sealing top coat.

As a bonus, we also will cover how to find free unique fonts online that you can use when creating a design for your wood project. While this specific project features a round wood slice, you can use any type or shape of wood you have available. This video is suitable for all ages and skill levels, and will allow you to develop the skills necessary to take on any type of wood painting project.

Meet Your Teacher

Hello, I'm Nicole. I draw, paint, design, & create!

 

Connect with me on social media!

INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/nicole_makesart/

ETSY: etsy.com/shop/nicolemakesart1

REDBUBBLE: redbubble.com/people/nicolemakesart/shop

TIK TOK: tiktok.com/tSeNHd/

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: everybody. My name's Nicole, and today we're going to be doing an introduction to a painting class. I have a pretty short 30 minute project plan just to kind of go over all the basics of painting on wood on more specifically, painting on these little wooden rounds. Um, I paint and sell these rounds on Etsy. My customized them. And so this is the process I use for all of those orders. Um, the project I have plan is pretty simple. It's your home state on the background and then your city name or your name or whatever kind of text you want layered on top. And so this project will teach kind of the basics of painting on wood best practices and hopefully give you some inspiration for future projects. You can dio. This is definitely something you could do with your kids. It's super easy, doesn't require a lot of time or supplies, so feel free to get the whole family involved on this one. Just a not line up the class for today. First gonna go over the supplies that I used. Like I said, you don't have to use these supplies. Feel free to use whatever you have, Um then we're gonna move into painting the background, which in this case, is that dark blue part. You see, we're going to go over tracing our design. Eso I like to use thedc, um, pewter to kind of orient, where things will be on the wood round and then use that to trace my design. So that way it looks as accurate as it can. And then from tracing, we're gonna learn about how to transfer what you traced onto the wood ground. And then we work on painting our first layer, which in this case will be thestreet eight, which is shown in that, um, lighter blue color. And then we will go ahead and do transfer to where we will transfer the text onto our would round. And then we'll paint our second layer, which in this case, would be the text. And then I'll show you how to put a protective topcoat on top of the would slice and then wrap it up and talk about, um, different ways you can use on these would slices. They're great for a lot of different things. Christmas ornaments, coasters, gift tags, wall art. There really versatile and really affordable, so definitely feel free to get creative with this. So if at any point you have any questions or anything, feel free to drop a comment on the class page or reach out to me at one of my social media links below. I'm looking forward to sharing this process with you, so let's go ahead and get started. 2. Supplies: Okay, so let's go ahead and get started going over earthy supplies that you'll need for this project. If you don't have everything that I have listed here, don't freak out. Not a big deal just improvised with whatever you have on. This is just what I particularly used for this design. So starting off with the would slice, I will usually order my would slices off Amazon or buy them at Michael's. There's a tone, a different variety between the actual size of thickness, the type of wood, etcetera. So look around and see what you like best. A lot of times, I'll order them in bulk. You can get him a lot cheaper that way. Um, I think this one in particular, I ordered off Amazon, and it's probably like five inches in diameter, just to give you an idea of how big these are moving on to the palate. If you don't have an actual dedicated palate, a plastic lid works just as well. That's typically what I'll use. Um, obviously I have a ton of these just laying around my house, so might as well put him to good use as for paints. For my two shades of blue. I am using Americana pink. I really like the Americana paints there really affordable, I think those little bottles or like a dollar 50 each. And they have a ton of different colors, some of different properties, like texture and pearl. Um, and then for my white paint, I am using the liquid text titanium white. I like to use a little bit of a thicker paint for my light colors just because that I don't have to go over them. Ah, bunch of different times with layers. If they go on to things, you just put it on once and you're good to go. And then for my brushes, I have three different sizes here. I have, ah, thicker one to do the background medium, says brush to Duthie State M and some of the details, and then a real fine brush to do my lettering. And to get those sharp quarters and finish off the edges, moving on to the supplies you'll need for tracing. Um, you can definitely skip this step if you want to, and you just want a free hand onto the wood. But if you aren't so confident, your free handing skills. This is a great way toe. Get the design you're looking for, and for that you're just going Teoh paper pencil in a racer and then a computer. And if you have a printer, that's great. But you don't have to have one to do this. And then finally, for our ceiling topcoat, I just amusing mod patch. There's a bazillion different kinds of mod podge out there. This is just like the plane standard gloss type and then a brush that you can use to apply the mod podge. So after you have all this stuff ready to go, let's go ahead and get started with the project. 3. Background: Okay, so we're gonna go ahead and get started with painting our background. I'm using the Navy blue for the background and making sure I'm shaking up by paint really well, before I could started just to make sure everything's mixed really well. And we're not gonna have any sort of of the watery paint coming out first into our palate. You want to put a good amount into the palate, but not too much. You don't want to waste any of your paint. You can always go back and add Maura's, You go and we're just gonna go ahead and get started starting on an outer edge just to kind of get a feel for the brush against the wood. I personally like to leave a little bit of white space between the mark and the paint. You can choose to paint all the way to the bark if you want totally up to you. And I'm just gonna go ahead and do kind of an outline. First of the outer edge. Make sure whenever you're putting paint down, you're not putting it in thick globs. You want to put down thin layers that will help the paint dry a little bit nicer and it won't look. It's street he whenever you're done. Another tip with these would rounds is whenever you're putting the paint down, try to move the brush in a circle to kind of mimic the rings of the wood. If you do that, the streaks and the strokes of your painting will kind of blend in with that Would and May won't make it stand out as much, and it looks really clean when you're done. And like I said, you want to dio thin layers a lot of time with dark colors. It'll take me about two coats of paint to get everything covered nicely. The nice thing with wood is that, um the paint dries pretty quick. It soaks into the wood pretty fast. So if you're painting from left to right by the time you're done with the right side, the left side's usually ready to go for a second coat so it doesn't take long at all. It's going back over. The edge is now just to get a clean, crisp line. Um, it looks really sharp, especially if you have the white gap between the paint and the bark. If you have a really sharp Peyton line, and sometimes I'll use my really thin brush to do those sorts of details. The nice thing with the thick brush I'm using it has a nice, rounded tip. And so you can kind of do the big areas of color and then come in with the pointed tip and get those Chris crisp, clean edges. So now I'm just gonna go ahead and fill in the final last details. Um, you definitely want to let this dry really well, before moving on to the tracing stage, keep these would rounds away from extreme heat. They split really easily when they get hot. Before you have, um, sealed. So definitely try and keep in a cool place. Sometimes I'll even keep mine in the fridge, and I think we're about ready to move on to the next stage. 4. Tracing: Okay, So what's behind? Get started tracing, um, to get started, you're just gonna grab your sheet of paper and your would slice and to start off, we're just gonna draw another line up the would slice once you have your outline and it's kind of hard to see here, but you're gonna want to go ahead and try and draw in the part that is actually painted so on inner circle that represents the part that actually has paint on it. And after you have this, you can cut out the circle if you want. Um, I don't have any scissors by me, So we're just gonna use the full piece of paper, and so I'm gonna go ahead and grab my computer. And so I already went and found a background image of Missouri that I just found on Google . And I'm using Power Point just to kind of arrange everything. And then, um, I found a nice spot that says Kansas City, um, I'll attach a video on how to download France if you don't know how to do that. Um And so right now I'm just going through and putting my trace circle on top of the image here and adjusting the size of the image to make sure it fits within the circle. And that would be the painted circle. So I'm just making it a little bit smaller here and kind of adjusting where those words are going to go, and it doesn't have to be perfect. The idea what the outline is just to kind of give you an idea of where things should go on your would slice so you don't have to get super detailed, but that this is just to help you out to give you some floating whenever you start painting on those details. So I'm just gonna go ahead and trace directly on here. If you have a printer, you can skip this stuff and just print out your design onto paper. I don't have a printer, so we're making do with this tracing method. And like I said, if you don't want to trace, um, I know a lot of people have a lot of problems with tracing. I personally am a fan of it, especially your just painting for fun. This it saves you a lot of headache and stress. Um, and really, we're not focused on the drawing here. We're focused on doing her painting. Um, but if you're not wanting to trace and you want to work on your free hand signals or whatever, definitely feel free to just draw directly onto the wood with your pencil. That is totally final. So a lot of times, whenever I am painting some of these would slices and I need to draw faces or buildings or really sort of detailed images, I will definitely default to tracing. But a lot of times when it's just words or kind of simple shapes or designs, all freehand it So it just kind of depends. But this is the math that I used for tracing. Anytime I do trace, they do so tracing paper that's out there. I've used it a couple times, but sometimes the ink on the back of the tracing paper comes off really thick and will sometimes ruin your wood. So a little if young using those usually I will just kind of do the method I'm showing you here. Um, and it works, Justus. Well, okay, so now I have my design traced out, and so I'm gonna move my computer out of the way, And so I'm gonna flip the paper over and on the part that I just traced, I am just going to color it, and and you can kinda hold up your paper to the light to kind of see exactly the part that you just traced. Um, but you just simply just shaded in. And the point of doing this is you're going to put this piece of paper shaded site down on your would round, and you're going to trace over your design again. And the pencil that you're putting down right now will transfer onto the wood very lightly so you can have a night and outlined to base your painting off. So just keep color and and once you have that, will be ready to move on to the next step. 5. Transfer: Okay, so now we're gonna go ahead and take our traced image and transferred onto the wood. So you're gonna want to try and line up the design bust you can over the center of the wood . Um, sometimes it helps to hold this up to, ah, window or something just to kind to see the art worrying as opposed to where the woods slices behind it. And you're just going to go ahead and essentially redraw the design on top. We're only doing thestreet pot will come back in and trace the text once we have the state part painted and dried. And you don't wanna press too hard into the wood for this part, because that'll in Dent and you could barely see it on here. So I'm just gonna go ahead and just kind of touch up the parts that were a little white whenever transform and again, don't press too hard. You don't want to leave any sort of intention in the wood. So, Mohammed, I kind of got this touched up. Will be ready to get started with painting or state 6. Layer One: Okay, so now that we have our state image transferred, we can go ahead and get started on painting the stakes. I'm using the light blue for this part, and I think it's gonna be a little bit to light the way it is now. Um, and it might that stand out or the white text by not stand out against it. So I'm just gonna add a little bit of that navy blue into the mix. And whatever you mixed colors, be sure to use. Don't use the brush part of your papers. Use thes stick end if use the brush part it A can potentially damage your brush, bristles and be it soaks up a lot of that paper fixing, whereas the stick end I won't. So company painting. Nothing will go to waste for you. So I think this is a little bit better. It's a little a little bit darker, So that way the white textile pop against against the state. So I'm using my medium sized brush for this. And I'm just kind of jumping right in here in the middle to get some paint down. Initially again, You don't want to club on you want to make sure you're doing thin, even layers. This will probably be another to code or just toe. Make sure we're covering that dark blue underneath. The name is going to keep painting in real time. If you finished before me, you can always just go ahead and fast forward to the end here. Um, one thing I will say is kind of similar to be when I was painting the background, I have another pointed brush so I can do these big areas of color and then use the tip of the brush to kind of do the details walking edges. And whenever I finished up, kind of getting some color down, I'll go back through and kind of, um, use my brush to do a circular pattern to kind of mimic the rings of the wood. That way, it kind of blends in nicely, describing my thin brush here to get some of those details on the edge. And if you need more time or whatever feel Frito, pause. The video. Um, what I said, this is kind of a work at your own pace sort of deal. If you're feeling like, kind of, ah, spicing up the project a little bit. After you have the base color of the state painted, you could go in and add kind of a design on top. Either some lines, um, a pattern. Do flowers, whatever it may be. I've done that a couple times in. That kind of adds a cool feature to the design for the sake of simplicity and just kind of showing you the basics. Today, I'm going to keep it simple with just the plane blew back background, - just going back there and cleaning up the lines. Like I said, sharp lines always looked really good and make things pop. Um, takes a little bit extra time, but it really does make a difference in the end. So I'm just gonna wrap it up the last few details here, Um, all through another second coat of paint on after I turn the camera off. But let this dry will be ready to move on to the last stage. 7. Transfer Two: Okay, so after you've let the paint on the state dry, we're gonna do a second transfer. And this time we're gonna be transferring the text onto the would slice. And so you want to try and line it up? Best you can, The way you had it before. Um, sometimes it's a little tricky. In this instance, it's not a huge deal if it's all just a little bit because the words don't have to be perfectly where you trace them. Same sort of thing. Don't press too hard when you're tracing. You don't want to leave any sort of intentions in the wood. And more importantly, now that we have a couple layers of paint on the wood, um, sometimes you can mess up that paint. If you press too hard on the kind of cause it toe almost chip off a little bit. And so just be just be careful, even with just a faint outline that helps with getting the paint onto the wood, and it doesn't have to be perfect again. This is just a guide. I'm gonna help you orient yourself. Whenever you're painting the letters, you improvise and add whatever you want as you go. Definitely Don't feel like you have to stick to exactly what you traced. I certainly go off script all the time, and usually it works out pretty well. Sometimes it doesn't. That's part of the fun of it you don't like before. Um, it's pretty white, so I'm gonna kind of touch up sommeliers where it's hard to see. Just so it's a little bit easier when I go on with the paint. - And don't worry about having access Pencil on here. You can go back with an eraser whenever you're done in a race away. All that theory, sir, comes off pretty easily from the wood, and I think we're about ready toe put paint down for our last stage here. 8. Layer Two: Okay, so now that we have our words transferred onto the would slice, we're gonna go ahead and get started with painting them on. I'm using the white paint for the Slayer, and like I said, um, I usually will buy a little bit of a thicker paint for my light colors just because sometimes if you have a light colored paint, you have to put a few layers down before it covers. Um, the base coat. And so if you buy thicker paint, it kind of serves as a primer and paint on one. The's liquid tax paints are really good for that. So I would recommend if you're doing any sort of like colors. This paint works really well for that. And so I'm just going over my outline here. Um, I'm not going to stick to it entirely. What kind of infer about improvise a little bit as I go just toe kind of get an idea for how things were looking on the would slice here. The same is always, um, you wanna do thin layers than even layers? Um, I'll say it over and over again. It's tempting to just go right in and put thick paint on all at once just to get things done a little quicker. But, um okay, I kind of think about it is like painting your nails. Um, you know, you wanna let each layer dry Oros the second you bump into your nail, it's gonna smudge. Same sort of idea. You're just causing the paint to take longer to drive glob. It'll on it once. So those thin even layers end up speeding up the drying process and just make everything with a little bit cleaner. And you don't have to worry about getting every letter perfect as you go. I kind of like to get just like the basic outline in and then come in and detail it out a little bit afterwards. So, like I said, I'm going to just keep working on this. Feel free to work at your own pace. If you finish before me, go ahead and you can speed up to the end of the video. Or if you need a little bit of extra time, feel free to pause this at any moment. You're all just working at our own pace, and it's kind of the fun of it. There's no rush, another whole helpful tent and mrs kind of unrelated. But if you need toe, take a break from painting and you don't want to get rid of the paint you have in your palate so you don't want it to dry up. Like if you want to come back to this tomorrow or something. A weird trick that's worked for me. I don't know if this is like proven or anything, but if you add just a hint of water to each of your colors and then go ahead and put them in the fridge, cut. Make sure it's covered and put it in the fridge That will help you get like an extra day out of your paint colors. Um, and if you are using, like a yogurt lid or something as you're a paint palette, that's really nice, because you can just put the empty container part, snap it on top of the lid and you have an automatic cover. Such a simple tricked if you need to take a break or whatever might not work for all paints but the's Americana pains that I use. I do that pretty often. Once you kind of get the basic techniques down of how to paint these would slices you can really do anything with? Um, um kind of let your creativity run wild. The basic concepts are gonna be the same. No matter what, you paint your and want to put a bass down first and then work your way back to front. Um, no matter what kind of painting you're doing, even if you're doing a key and bizarre paper, whatever, just think about it. Working your way from back to front lets the easiest way to do it. It helps minimize mistakes. Other people may say differently, but that's just kind of the way I've always done it. And it's always been a rule of thumb for me that works in almost every situation. Another cool thing these would rounds is, um, I bought some that don't have holes in them, but you can buy them pre drilled. So if you are wanting to make these into Christmas ornaments or when I hang them up, you can get him. With nail holes already drilled, I typically will drill him in myself, just in case. Uh, you know, I usually buy this in bulk, and so sometimes There's some projects that I don't want to have the, um, drill holes in side of swill drill the holes myself pretty easy to dio. He's also make pretty cool coasters. If you put um, a pretty good amount of mod podge on top, they make really cool coasters and gifts. So now I'm just kind of going in and touching up the parts I already painted, getting those short, crisp lines. And there, if you notice I kind of went a little bit off script a little bit from what I had traced. Its not 100% um, but later said no big deal were kind of just making it up as we go. And if you make a mistake or absolutely go outside the lines a little bit, don't freak out in panic. Um, don't try and correct it until after the paint has dried, because then you end up mixing the mistake in and just make it worse. So if you do make a mistake and you need to touched up, let it dry completely and then come in with either your dark blue or light blue or wherever you need to touch up and just paint over it if you try and do it while the paint is drying or before the paint has dried. Interested in making a bigger mess. And trust me, I have plenty of experience. - Remember , it's still just touching up. And you can kind of see why I decided to dark in that blue a little bit. Um, if I wouldn't have darkened, it would have been a little too close to the white, um, intent. And so it wouldn't have the words wouldn't have stood out very well. So you kind of want to make sure that your, um, state color and your text color are different enough to where the words will stand out whenever there over laid on top of the state. - And I'm just gonna go ahead and add in a little heart here over where Keane's of City goes, Um, just a cute little detailed add to the design a little bit and so similar to the state. Once we finished this part up, we are going to let it dry really well on the thicker paint usually takes a little bit longer to dry, so make sure you give it plenty of time on and then we'll move into the very last part of this project, which will be adding the protective topcoat. We're just finishing off the heart here, and that should do it, So let's go ahead and finish this project up. 9. Top Coat: okay. For the very last part of this project, we're gonna go ahead and add a protective topcoat. First. I'm just gonna go through with an eraser and erase any stray pencil marks from our transferring. Just so they're not showing after we're done here. And definitely make sure the paint is completely dry before you do this, um, otherwise you will smudge it, even if it is almost dry. I have done this so many times in it, a silver bringing to be done with your painting and then smear something with the razor. Make sure you get all those shavings off. You don't want any of that trapped under the top coat? Take my mod podge. Like I said, Um, this is just kind of the regular mod podge you can get at Michael's. Um, it says Matt, but it does have a little bit of a gloss to it. They have different kinds of my podge, depending on what you're looking for. If you're wanting Teoh use this is a coaster or something like that. Make sure you get the my podge. That is dishwasher. See, I'm just to be really sure that you're not gonna damage the paint and similar to the way that we've been painting everything else on your try and put your my punch down in round brush strokes to kind of match the grain of the wood. Um, it helps hide your your ah brought your brush strokes and just kind of makes it look clean . And even with the mod podge, we're gonna do thin, even layers. Um, the wood eats up a lot of the mod podge on the first layer, so usually need to do it least two layers of the my podge. And make sure you're also getting the bark whenever you're putting this down. Um, just because sometimes that bark will tend to flake off over time. And so if you put that protective coating on it will help hold it in place and we're about done. Make sure you flip it over and put a coat on the back side. But other than that, we should be good to go 10. Wrap Up: All right, everybody. And that's the end of our project. Hopefully, you have a would slice that you are super proud of. Like I said, this technique can be applied to just about any sort of design you do with wood painting. Whether it be one of these would rounds or a wood square or whatever, the possibilities are endless. Just keep in mind work away from back to front. Um, do thin even layers and always make sure you apply some sort of protective top coating. Um, just so these things are a little bit more resistant to heat and temperature fluctuation, and they don't get ruined if you were to get somewhat or whatever. Um, so I would love to see what you guys created. Feel free to reach out to me at one of my social media links below some yet picture. Tell me how it went. Feel free to leave me any kind of feedback or advice for future classes. I'm hoping to do some more of these would paintings in the future. I'm along with a few other projects that I really like to do, such as canvas paintings and drawings on the iPad. So feel free. Dulaimi feedback. Um, share with me your projects. And I look forward to working with you guys again soon. Thank you. 11. BONUS: How to Install Fonts: Okay, So if you've never had to download bonds before on and you're looking for something beyond what's offered on your computer deep by default, a great way to get different ball different bonds is by using this website called Fat Score . Um, von Squirrel has 100% free for commercial use fonts, so you don't have to worry about paying for them or if you end up selling your you don't have to worry about, you know, you're legally able to use these funds. They're all totally free and available for use. So it's a great website, so you can scroll through here and kind of find what they're looking for. Um, looking for more script for this project. Um, she was on here earlier, so I'm gonna go ahead and jump to the second page because I think I know what I'm looking for. Oh, yeah, here it is. So once you find a font that you like or that you're interested in, you can go ahead and click on it, and then on fronts. Will you have this option to test drive so you can type in whatever you want and see how it looks so in this case were on Titan, Kansas City because that's what's going on my wood round. Um, and I really like the way this looks, So I think I'm gonna go ahead and download the spot. So you click here describing hit Dhamma me. And once the files ready to go, go ahead and open that zip file and you're gonna want Teoh. Um, get this out of the way. You're gonna want to put this font copy it over to your desktop. You can accept it if you want to tell your desktop. And now you're gonna wanna open your fonts money. So just type in fonts into your, um, search and should pull up your font system settings. And you should just be able to drag that font file right into here a little in star. And so now, whenever you go into PowerPoint, you should be able to find that function there and there it is. So pretty simple, not too much to it on. And this is a great way to get some new fonts. And the Knicks, if you're constantly just working off of sort of the windows standard, so feel free to give font squirrel try. I'll be sure to put a link to it in the class page below