Introduction to Frequency Separation(Outdated) | Carolyn Page | Skillshare

Introduction to Frequency Separation(Outdated)

Carolyn Page, Photographer

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6 Lessons (29m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:03
    • 2. What Is Frequency Separation?

      1:42
    • 3. Creating The Action In Photoshop

      5:30
    • 4. Editing High Layer

      7:47
    • 5. Editing Low Layer

      9:01
    • 6. Using the Brush Tool

      3:59

About This Class

Thank you all for watching my previous class, but it’s out of date with my current style that relies less on editing. Since skillshare won’t actually let me delete it, I wanted to leave this message.

To see my current work you can check out my Instagram: @cm.page

Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi, everyone. My name, Miss Garland. And welcome to my class retouching introduction to fricassee separation. In this class, I will go through and briefly explain what frequency separation is as well is how issues. Afterwards, I will go through and show you step by step, how to turn the technique into your own photo shop accent as well. Let's go through and show you how I use it at my own images. Plus also give you some tips and tricks that I learned along the way. Just so you guys will be able to take what you learn and apply it to the class project at the end of the glass. As a disclaimer. My way isn't the only way on how to used the technique or do it. But my goal is to introduce you to it so that you can find your own retouch and style and, you know, learn from there. So again, welcome to the class and let's get started 2. What Is Frequency Separation?: so what? ISS frequency separation frequency separation is a technique that uses high and low frequencies to separate your details about texture and tone. By separating these two, you have more control over your details. While editing on Photoshopped thes will be layers, the high layer is your texture layer. On this layer, you can edit blemishes and other lines and textures. This is how the layer looks before a blended motors applied. As you can see, it is great, but you can still see some texture. This is how the layer looks after the blending mode. Linear light is apply. As you can see, the layer has its color back, but now you can see the texture more in detail. The lower layer is your color layer. You'll use this layer. Two. Edit the colors of the skin without interfering with the texture as you can see what the low layer, the images completely blurred so that the colors are more blended With that in mind is easier to choose a source to replace other parts of the skin with With these frequencies are layers separated each can remain of faced, are unchanged by the other in the next lesson, I will show you how to create each layer and turn into action so that you can use it for future images without having to repeat the entire process again. 3. Creating The Action In Photoshop: Now that we have an idea of a frequency, separation is let's great in action for it. First, you need to have photo shop open, so if you don't have it open already, you can do so now. Unq Ardently using CC Although CS five and six should be fine, open up The image that you plan to use for the class project are just an image you want to go through. This lesson with this image is the one I will be using for the rest of the class. Once you have your image up, we will hit to the action family to make a new folder for your action or the play button. As you can see here, all your actions are in this panel and you can see the folders containing them at the bottom of the panel. Click on Create new set button RV folder button, and he will pull up a dialog box where you can name your folder. You can name a frequency separation all. Just name it Fs X in press OK, and it will create the folder for your new action. Next, you'll go to the great new action but and click on it. This will full of the dialogue box where you'll name your action. I'll just name it FS Action and press record. And after that, photo shop will start recording anything you do. From this point on, now that we have Photoshopped recording within, duplicate our image. Lee, or twice the fire slayer will be low, and the second layer will be high. Make sure that the high layer is first are on top after making your layers click on the low layer on, Go to filters blur, then Gaussian blur and click on it, as you can see already, have my slider set to 12. You can go higher or lower to find your preference, but the key is toe. Have it to where your colors are blended out. You don't want it to look splotchy, but you want it to look even once you find the sudden that you like, you can click OK and wait for it to finish loading. When it's done, will move on to the high layer, click on the high layer, then go to image and select Apply image again. My sentence already set, but make sure to select the low layer in the pull down, meaning. Make sure your invert boxes and shape, then change the blend. Immelt. It's a track, and make sure your offset is said to 1 28 you rapacity Still at 100 in your skill at two months. Done. Click OK, then change the blending mode of the Hollier. Tow linen. You're white. So now that we have both are layers made. I'll click on both layers and growth them into a folder and name it fs action again. You can name it however you want when you're done, and make sure to press stop so photo stock and start recording. And now you have your own office action. If you want to make sure that it works, you can delete the folder that you have in your layers panel. Then go back to the actions panel, find your accent and press played to replay it again. Photo shop should replay the action step by step again, and it should produce the same results that you have your action. We can move on to the next listen where we can use it 4. Editing High Layer: now let's use our action first. If you haven't already, you can apply your action. I'll replay miles again just so you guys can see I'll first start off with the highly air to edit all the blemishes and even the texture. The tools that I'll be using in this video will be the constant toe killing brush in the brush. Cool our paintbrush. If you know about that, the tool all use first is the clone stamp tool. But before I change my settings, I'll show you the highly or again. I'll go to my brush settings for the coincidental and change it. I'll put my capacity around 35% and leave my float at 24. Normally keep it around the 24 30 range. It gives me more control after that's done. Time to try it. I like to keep it at normal for the scan, although I will change it for the low layer. I'm selecting the spot that I want to take my texture from, and I'll start on her forehead. You guys may not see much change due to the glare, but I'm going to go through to get any little bump or line and try to smooth out that area , then work my way on down are around the face. You can see that there seems to be no change to the Hollier by itself, but the results will mainly show with both layers showing I normally keep both with them visible. It's on Lee with the low layer that I might have be highly or just to see how my colors are looking. Why I like to use the constant tool is that it gives me a buildable coverage without going full out. Like the hill in Bristol are the blemish removal, but I will use the healing brush tool later on, so my problem areas are mainly the cheeks, but he knows it's a close second. From this point on, I'll just go around the entire face to smooth out the texture. One thing to make note of When using the close down tool, it's to make sure that you keep watch of your source points because they will move as you move around so you can possibly be taking a texture or color from like the hair. But you're editing on the skin, and as long as you're rapacity is low. You shouldn't run across to. You shouldn't run across many issues unless you're on the low layer. But always make sure to keep mine of that, too. Re click for a new source just so you don't pick up something you don't want. - I I'm only going to go over it a couple of times. I do want to hide it, but I actually want to keep a little bit of it. I know most people will completely get rid of it, but since this is hard without makeup, I do want to keep the line a little. You guys can do whatever you like. This is just my preference, huh? So here's the before and after you can see a slight difference, but the main issues are the discoloration spots that will take both Be Hyland Brush to and the clothes stand told the fix. Not only do I use the Hyland brush tool to replace the texture, but it also helps some with the color, since some of the discoloration spots are actually texture problems and not a color problem . While editing both players, I'll go back and forth with tools and change. Sudden is dependent on what I'm going for again. Play around, See what works best for you. Just try to keep in mind to keep her image natural, at least for the class project you can. I would like to see it close to natural. - I texture close to even out all start working on my colors. Obviously, they're still some more work needed, but for the sake of time, I'll move on to the lower layer. 5. Editing Low Layer: Now we're moving on to the low layer. I'm going to continue to use the growing cental, even out the colors of her cheeks. But first I need to see if I need to change my brush sit ins. You can see the changes better on this lawyer compared to the Hollier, and with that I can see that I have to bring down my capacity. Some people change the motor of the brush, delight in it, but I like to keep it at normal. Now I have a bright spot, but at least the areas more even making it easier to work with. Pick a darker area to blend out her cheeks, so I'll take a source point from below her cheekbone to cover the area. From here. I'll go back in for working to blend out the colors and make sure when doing this, not to overdo it. That's why I suggest you start with a lower rapacity and flow so you can build up. There will be times where you won't have to do as much retouching to an image, but I wanted to show you guys and image that require me to use both layers and all three tools, even though there are some that only use one are two tools. The original image I've planned to use. I would have only worked with one layer and really only one tool. That wouldn't really be a great example. So I went with this one, since I had be sun glare and lying and no makeup. Working with the scan tone is really drawn error, especially when there's more discoloration involved. Which is why I wanted to show you guys this just in case you run across a problem like this , you'll already have an idea in mind of what to do. Now I'm going to lighten the color around her eyes just a little. I want to match it, but not too much again. This is just the look I'm going for. I have done it to where, you know, had even skin tone us if you know you apply makeup. But for this one, I wanted to keep it natural just so that you guys can see for the class project. So you're probably wondering why it's taken me a minute to fix this one spot. I had actually been looking at my computer for about 30 minutes and the image was originally brighter than this actually lowered the brightness of the video just so you guys can see my changes. And the thought never occurred to me to lower the brightness of the image while editing. So I couldn't actually see what I was doing, which led me to take a long break away to go back and actually fix the changes. A piece of advice. Always make sure to take a break. If you can't figure out what to do next, always step away from whatever you're doing. Just so you can have a new perspective and you can see what you need to do what you shouldn't have done. It just makes things a lot easier. As you can see, I'm finally using a darker, sore spot to cover the cheeks again. I don't know why it took me this long to do it. You can see the darker color source is helping a lot about I'm pretty okay with this, I'll move on to the right cheek, huh? My main problem is getting those light pink areas on her mainly on her right cheek. Again. If a town there seems to be little changed with the constant tal, you can change the capacity or use another tool, like the hill in Bristol, which I'll be using, or you kid, go back to your Hollier and edit on that layer to make the changes. Sometimes I have to turn off the hot layer to see my colors, and I want it even with it off, but only for a little bit. Oh, - her nose. I probably should have left it be. Anything I needed to do was just even out the texture. But I tried to replace some of the highlight areas that actually did need to be there. So in the end, I did have to go back and fix that, actually dark in the area again, just so it wouldn't make her nose too broad. Also, another tip. If you ever feel unsure about touching up in area, you can always replay the action again. There are some people that will use it more than once. It gives them even more control, and I tend to do it normally at the end, like I would have completed my image and say that you don't have to save it, but I'll save it and flatten it and then replay the exit again if I want to get. Maybe a better blended colors are right. Work on the skin a little more. Always that option, because then you can also hide. The layers are changed the capacities. After this point, I'll continue to play around. I'll probably move on to the brush tool. Teoh get a better coverage than the clone stamp tool in the hill on brush, so I'll be showing you guys have to use that in the next lesson. 6. Using the Brush Tool: says, I'm still working on the right cheek. I'm going to use the brush tool to cover the area When using the birth stool. Make sure to lower the capacity because it will be a lot stronger than coincidental or the healing Bristol. I'm lowering it to 30% but I still think it's too much. It's too dark, so I'm going to lower it to 10%. This will work, so I'll move on to the area I want to work with. As I'm working on this area, I can see that I have to bring back the shadows on the edge of her face. But I will do that using either of the tools again. Here's a spot that took me too long to fix. So what I did instead was go to the Hollier and use the killing verse tool to fix the area because the Bristol wasn't working the way I wanted to, and I didn't really want to go up on a passing for that or else it would take away my picture. I'm just going to keep going back and forth between the layers and tools until I'm happy with it. From this point you guys can still just play around and keep going until you get to a place where you're happy with the results and you can save it again. Make sure to save a before as a J pick and then save this as a J. Pick two for the class project and upload both. I'll explain it a little more in the next video anger over anymore tips that I feel like I need to share.