Intermediate Silversmithing - Twisted Ribbon Bangles | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

Playback Speed

  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x

Intermediate Silversmithing - Twisted Ribbon Bangles

teacher avatar Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

14 Lessons (1h 7m)
    • 1. Twisted Ribbon Bangles

    • 2. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - materials

    • 3. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - equipment

    • 4. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - soldering equipment

    • 5. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - calculating the materials

    • 6. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - preparing the wire

    • 7. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - flattening the wire

    • 8. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - annealing

    • 9. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - twisting the wire

    • 10. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - trimming the wire

    • 11. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - soldering

    • 12. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - shaping the bangle

    • 13. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - filing and sanding

    • 14. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - final thoughts

  • --
  • Beginner level
  • Intermediate level
  • Advanced level
  • All levels
  • Beg/Int level
  • Int/Adv level

Community Generated

The level is determined by a majority opinion of students who have reviewed this class. The teacher's recommendation is shown until at least 5 student responses are collected.





About This Class

Create a beautiful twist on a classic bangle! Learn how to forge and prepare simple round wire before creating wonderful tactile twists, and then practice your soldering to turn it into a lovely bangle. These bangles look even better when worn in a stack, so you'll want to make more than one!


The Twisted Ribbon Bangle class is part of a series on Intermediate Silversmithing. As you progress through the series I will help you build on the skills covered in the Silversmithing for Beginners series, encouraging you to create more complex projects. I will always take you through everything you need step by step, and include troubleshooting sections where appropriate too. We will be covering soldering, various methods of stone setting, etching and more. This class is a great way of improving your forging skills.

I will be using a rolling mill to forge the wire. If you don't have access to a rolling mill then a smooth planishing hammer can be used instead with a little more effort.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Joanne Tinley

Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer


I have been making jewellery for as long as I can remember, and have been passing these wonderful (and addctive!) skills on through my classes for nearly 20 years. I am self-taught and like many people I started with wire and beads. Learning how to solder, however, opened up a whole new world of jewellery making! There is something so magical about watching solder flow through a seam, joining two pieces of metal together smoothly.

My studio is in Southampton, on the South Coast of the UK. I design and make jewellery for galleries across the UK, teach regular and popular jewellery design workshops, and also offer private tuition. My jewellery design projects have been published in both UK and US magazines and books.

Visit my Etsy shop, Jewellers Bench Shop, for jewellery ma... See full profile

Class Ratings

Expectations Met?
  • Exceeded!
  • Yes
  • Somewhat
  • Not really
Reviews Archive

In October 2018, we updated our review system to improve the way we collect feedback. Below are the reviews written before that update.

Why Join Skillshare?

Take award-winning Skillshare Original Classes

Each class has short lessons, hands-on projects

Your membership supports Skillshare teachers

Learn From Anywhere

Take classes on the go with the Skillshare app. Stream or download to watch on the plane, the subway, or wherever you learn best.


1. Twisted Ribbon Bangles: Hello. My name is John Tinley. I'm a jewelry designer and shooter for the South Coast UK on Welcomes Twisted Ribbon spangles. This class is part of my intermediate Siri's because we're going to be going past the basic techniques that you need to make a simple Hamed bangle. However, if that's a technique that you still need to last that I will be covering what you need right from the start of measuring for bangle to soldering to tiding soldier joint. But we're also going to be forging a section of the wire Sertic and then twists it up. I'm going to be using a rolling mill to help me to do that. However, if you don't have a rolling mill, it is possible to do forging with a hammer as well simply by hammering the wire instead of rolling it out. But I think Rolling Mill does give the best affect for this house for this project, so if you do have access to one, make use of it. If you're making a very plain bangle, you can make it out of almost any profile of while you like Round Oval Square. Rectangular is completely up to you However, this project, I think, works best with round wire. I'm using two millimeter sterling silver around why I have used up to four millimeters in diameter for this project, but that does need a little bit of extra strength to bend the thicker wire round. So if you are ready to make yourself one or whole arm full of beautiful angles, let's have a look of the equipment that you need. 2. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - materials: Theo. Any materials that you're going to need to make The twisted ribbon bangle is stunning. Silver around wire. I'm going to be using two millimeter. Why? Because I'm going to be making quite a delicate bangle. Andi, I wouldn't know any thinner than two millimeters for this project, but I've used up to four millimeters to make some beautiful Bangles. However, remember the thick of the wire you use, the more effort you're going to need to put into it to forge it, Andi, to shape it, ready for soldering. However, if you do use a thicker wire that twists in it are going to be a lot more obvious. So by simply changing the damage of the wire that you choose to use, you can get some very different looks from the same basic technique. This I'm going to be showing you in this project 3. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - equipment: the's handles that we're going to need to make the twisted bangle. I've got a set of metal bangle sizes here on day. I'm going to use those to work out the size of bangle. But I want to make on also to help me work out the amount of wire that I'm going to need to make the bangle the bangle mandrell I'm going to use for several jobs and just use it all the way through the clouds, starting with Help me work out amount of muscle is I'm going to need but also to allow me to shape the bangle into a round shape. I'm going to work with Bangle Mandel on top for leather cushion to both support it and keep the noise. The hammering down on this as well. The hammer is going to be done with the nylon hammer that you can see here. I'm not going to be putting a texture into this. Bangles has no texture in Hammer's. I just want Teoh. Use the nylon hammer to shape the wire around the bangle. Mandel. I think the twist in the bangle is going toe add enough interest without, sadly, a texture as well, although you can, of course, add texture if you wish. Going to use a ruler on Duthie Ultra Firing Point Sharpie pen to help me measure out the metal on several occasions you in the class I'm going to use. Did you resource to cut through the wires I'm going to use for the bangle ongoing support while on the bench. Paid the April underneath, as always, catches the silver dust because that could go recycling. Of course. A six inch our front file Onda six inch flat file on. I'm going to be using both of those too far the ends of the bangle wire and tidy up soldier join. If you only have a budget for one father this size, I would go for the half round because you could actually get away with just using half around for this. Not using a fat file, a swell going to use the Engineers Square to help me make sure the ends of the wire are perfectly square. Before I sold them together, the binding why would be used to help me work out the length of wires I'm going to need to make the bangle and I'll use the wire cutters to cut through the binding wire. I've got four grades of emery paper here. I tend to work with 240 great 501,000, 202,000 grit Emery paper. I'm working my way through those. I'm going to do some more tidying up with social joint. You could also see here three different sets, supplies, but nylon, your players that will help me just to get any kinks out of the wire. Get rid of those flat nose part of scene we use when it comes to helping work out. Amount of metals are made me for the project. Andi. I've also got a pair of heavy duty pliers that will help me to hold the metal as I twist it . Although I couldn't fit it on the desk with everything else also going to use a clamp that it touches to the site of my bench to hold one into the wire as I twisted piece of equipment you can't see on my desk because it's too big. Is my Rolling Mills about sitting over here on day? I'm going to use that to prepare the wire before I twisted This is a soldering project. So wills and have a look a soldering equipment that we need to sold to the end of the bangle together. 4. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - soldering equipment: thing is the soldier equipment that I use for all of my small projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mounting temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to refill cigarette lighter, bigger projects such as Bangles and our dependence, you're going to need a bigger torch. Otherwise, you're not going to be able to get the metal up to the soldier in temperature that you need showing the big torch on this small torch next to each other. For comparison, you can buy specialist doers torture's with separate gas canisters. But for beginners, a D. I. Y plumber's torch is using more affordable on dfars more easily found Justin. Anything I Y store do. Make sure, though, that you get yourself igniting torch. It's a lot safer. The torch itself is the black section with the handle and the red ignition button that screwed onto the gas canister. Once gas cars is empty and you will be able to tell because your flame will start to get very graceful. Then it's time to screw in a new gas canister. And in some areas you can recycle the old ones at the back of a picture. You can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution, go to safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and last, but definitely not least our home safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - calculating the materials: thing is the easiest way. I know off working out the amount of wire that you need to make your angle. I've put the bangle sizer that I need that have worked as right size for May on the bangle Mandrell Andi. I've cut a piece of the binding wire that it long enough for me to wraparound. The man drove just above the ring sizer Andi, then start to twist the ends together. This is where that have flat their suppliers comes in to use those find a guess, a much better grip of those when they're tight up against the bangle Mandrell, he says. It's a bit more twist up. Yes, the Wymore until the bangle. So the the binding wire we go is sitting snug up against the bangle. Mandrell has stuck up against the top of the sizer, and then when I take that off, you've got a circle that is as close as possible, the same as the inside diameter as that bangle sizer. Now I've done it to the top bankers size around the bottom. First of all, it is easier because I can push it down and brace it up against here. We justify to at the bottom, it is likely to be just a little bit too big. So it's best to do it at the top on. Then what I can do issues the bangle, the wire cutters to cut open. I cut them open across from the joy I find Celeste site for apart there. Then on, then, uh, cool. But why are straight? So I've now got a length of wire that I can measure with my ruler. Um, you could instead measure across the diameter of the spangle sizer and then multiply that by pi to work out the inside conference. But she's is nigh impossible. Teoh measure accurately across a circle. So this is I find a far better method to do so clean with that. Out of the way, Andi, even if it's just the way to go to room Andi, I'm going to use the rule that no, I don't put the wire on top. That's the rule. I put it along the edge and push it on the education going to move the camera. So you get better view of this. I moved the camera seeking its now get a better view of the ruler says, I can show you that I don't put the wire on top of the ruler and try and hold it to get the correct measurement, because I can't be certain that the wire is straight. So what I'm going to do instead is of me sure that it's a zero mark there. Andi bracing it up against the edge of the ruler. By doing that, I'm making sure it's either that way. But they get their chairs. Um, that says press reports of making sure that the wire is a straight as possible so that I'm making my measurement as accurate as possible. I want the measurement in millimeters on that is 100 or 204 millimeters. Reason wants to millimeters is that the wire diameter is in millimeters, and it's far easier if you don't muddle up your you're us. So take this way. Put it back again. Measure again. There's still 200 for Chef. It's no, but it's always best went Teoh Measure twice and cut once. It's the old saying those, especially when you're working with precious metals. So there are two things that I now need to do with that measurement. The why that we're working with is two millimeters in diameter. And because that wire is certainly a great deal thicker than the binding, why I need to add a little bit of length to account first sickness off the wire with standard rule is you write on twice the thickness twice as I am much of the while you're working with so two millimeters wide two times two for Arnone toe. I don't four millimeters taking my measurement up to 208. However, with this particular project, I need a little bit extra. When it comes to twisting the wire up. I am going to need toe. Hold the wire very tightly. One end in either a clump or the end of your bill rolling mill on the other end in a strong pair off pliers. Or, if you got an extra pair of hands handy, you can have two power supplies and two people holding. It is likely, therefore, that those ends of the wire are going to become a little bit untidy and marked on. I don't want to include those in my bangle, so I'm going to cut off 218 millimeters. I'm gonna cut off an extra centimeter. A natural. A vow for those untidy ins to be cut off. 6. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - preparing the wire: So I've used the Sharky and Ruler to mark my length of wire with 218 millimeters management . I worked out, um, she would apply like wire. Isn't cities Honea a couple centimeters longer than that? So I could actually work with this whole length. But I just want to remind you of how to saw through the wire. I've got the wire supported on the bench pig. Um, so that it is across the cups that I put in bench place so that the relate of my separate of my sore frame from well up there access the wire. But most of y is still supported by the wood. So remember, you don't have to put pressure on the blade. Just allow it to come through for you. So there you go. That's this thing's a while. That's I'm not going to use to make the bangle. Don't why, That won't go to waste. Though I find up in the scrap part for right, I might find another project. Maybe run it through the rolling mill, thin it out, stretch it out, classiness if orbits and find another project for that. So now I need to do a bit of measuring and marking with Sharpie before I compare the while to be twisted before I Mark, Why Just going to use the nine on your pliers to help to smooth out the kinks, Just going to make it easier to market into, to work with. I need no on. Your pliers are fantastic because they do help to so shaped and smoothed out. But without the soft you'll they don't leave any marks on on the pliers. So only the Why place. So I'm holding the wire up against the edge of the ruler again again so I can breaks it up against the edge of make sure that it is nice and flat, and I'm just going to mark roughly whether the midpoint is so. I cut off 218 millimeters, but so involvements they come in to say that the the mark is it 100 millimeters just there . So just put that mark on such my midpoint. And now from there I'm going to mark out, I think, for 3.5 centimeters under 35 millimeters either side off that that made Mark. It is really up to you. How much you mark on here since 3.5 centimeter, the size seven centimeters in total. I've been a bit closer. Should be out to sea. 123 months. That was that so important anymore. These two now the important ones. It's actually up to you. How much you want tomorrow on there. That is going to be where the twist in the wire is. You don't want it to close the ends, so I would always leave, maybe two centimeters clear at the end. So you're twists aren't too close to where the soldier join is going to be remembering and trimming a little bit of this wire off. So you don't want to close the soldier, John, Because to get the neater soldier when you still want the ends to be nice and round. Um, Andi, I want twists to be a feature on my bangle. I don't want it on this bangle to be the whole thing, so I'm just marking on here. By the time I've cut off the excess y at the end, I've marked on seven centimeters, which is going to be roughly 1/3 of the way around my bangle. So I think is going to be a nice effect. Nice contrast with the smooth around wire and twist, especially when the spangles war with stuck, twisted Bangles it's going to look really effective. 7. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - flattening the wire: now, in order to create visible twists in this wire, I need to change its profile every time you bend. Why you are twisting it a little bit. So if I was spends this wire into a U shape or into is the shape honey for soldering with the ends meeting head on, then I would be putting a bit of a twist in the wind as well. If I wasn't very careful. However, you wouldn't see that twist because there are no corners to this wire. It's the same profile along the way around. It is different as you mercy for so my other classes. If you're working with square wire, if you're forming square wire into a ring or bangle that ordinarily you have to be very careful not to twist it and to shape it very, very slowly. Eso that the corners don't twist around. You can't see the twist. So I actually going to with this what I am going to put some corn effective. I am going to flatten it, but I'm only going to put a flat area between those two marked points. I'm going to do it using my ruling them. You could use a hammer if you don't have a rolling mill. But believe me, having a rolling mill makes it a lot easier. And it also helps to make the twists more, even because the flat section will itself be more even so, usually I set up the rolling mill. Have the role is tight enough to make a difference in the metal on, then feed the metal through this time. Her views. You can see I've put the metal in so that the midpoint that I marked is in between the rollers. Andi, I've tightened the runners up against set. That's because I don't want to make a difference in the end. The why I really want to make a difference. The middle. I have tried to make sure that the wire is going through right angles to the rollers might not be completely obvious to the camera view at the moment, because to forget about to get the best fume coming in at an angle, but I'm making sure that it is the the wire is going through. Ah, I have not sorry at right angles to the rollers, so it's going head through so that my rolling is going to be as nice and even as possible, all the way along the links that I want the flattened area to appear. And at the moment the wire is held in fairly tightly, I can move it about little bit. I'm aware that as I'm moving it about a little bit like that, it is whether the steel rollers are in contact with the watches were likely to have been making some marks on there. But that's fine because it's going to be pulled out as no problem. I'm just going Teoh title. It's just a fraction So my destined rolling mill. That was just one of the marks in the gauge about the top here. Andi, some going to do is roll. Turn the handle road this through. Until that mark, there is just out of you so bent down a bit so so I can see between the road was little bit base just out of you. And what I'm going to do now is roll it back the other way on. But on the other side of the rollers, over here, on watch for the Marxist, I put on the other side. So again, just you So remember to roll it back, Turn the handle the other way. Okay, Now it's no very obvious at the moment, but there is a PSA, lightly flatter area. Go back to the middle, slightly flatter area in between those two marks now. So I'm gonna do again, is that's right. Not the rollers a little bit more, which I can do now the wives become bit sinner. I'm going to repeat that. But what I'm going to be hard to do now as well as what she thinks that Mark going out the way I'm going to be out to feel where the rollers have already rolled up to where they have really think the metal as I get that point. There were greater resistance to my rolling because at that point, the wild here become thicker. The role is going to feel as if they're going to need more work to be to go past that point . I feel when I get up to that point, what apps that point just that I think I'm just saying going backwards, toothy off the side again, I could feel that resistance. So I'm gonna keep doing that going to take it back to the middle because I find that that house getting more even tighten it up a little bit, come up to work and feel resistance. Michael definitely feel resistance at the other end. They're stopped at that point, but the middle, tighten it up a bit more. So what I'm doing is gradually flattening the area in the middle of the bangle. It gets easier to feel where the point is that you need to stop teach ins. Us metal bangle gets thinner. I'm gonna do one more and then have a look at the sickness. So, looking at that sickness, I Yeah, I'm going to go a little bit further. There is an obvious flat area it obviously has become. Stiner has become a little bit wider, not very much wider, but I want to take that little bit further so that my twists are more obvious. We have noticed that despite my best efforts to keep the wild ones who head on, there was a little bit of a bend in the middle. But considering I'm going to be twisting that up, I'm not too worried. I think I'm going to leave that, uh So what I'm going to do is bring the camera in a little bit closer because that it's while the difficult to tell at this angle how the wire has changed. He should be out just seeing our that the cameras a different angle, as I moved wire around should be to see you've got the end of the wire. Andi. Nice. Still such a profile. And here we've got the flashing profile that the Sharpie marks rule us worn off. That's either end in the middle, so he's likely in the middle. But there's a nice type of here on the other end. Go on. It's thinner in the middle. So this is the area that is going to twist, However, before I could twist it. It needs a kneeling because I put a great deal of pressure on the metal here, so it's work hardened, so just give you a quick reminder off, just in case you need one 8. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - annealing: Ah, quite a few of my other classes include kneeling your work at some stage of the project. So this is on your a quick reminder, but everything that you do to metal work hardens it. It changes the very organized structure, the molecules to a disorganized one. When the molecules are organized, they can sit flight past each other easily so that you can put texturizing. You can send it through the rolling mills done here, you can bend it into shape. What we're going to do now is heat up the silver to a temperature that is below soldering temperature to get those molecules back into an organized structure again so that we can, in this case, put twists in that section. The metal now going to be using the large blowtorch because this is a very it's a long piece of metal, larger piece of metal Just being a bit quicker, Um, I put you should be able to see the darker patches, put some lines with a Sharpie so that I have gotten a clear indicator as to when I've really solving temperature by some fluke, which is absolutely brilliant because it makes life easier. Sharpie ink bones off at about a leading temperature, so I can use this as an indicator that I've got to the right temperature. Another, more traditional indicator would be that you get a deep red tinge to the metal, but certainly when you're still getting used to that. Putting a shell p mark on here is Well, you said that is a bit about the safety feet show, I suppose so. Don't worry about drying soldier doing staying back on course teaching of evenly. I'm going to stop when most that mark Just go Stay. That is enough. The other thing that needs doing to complete the process is that the metal must be quench. So they're just status site of that so long that I had to put 1st 1 ending and then the other. But that is now free, kneeled. It's going to be a lot easier to twist on. Bend this metal. I am going to put it in the pick off to clean up a little bit, though I always like to work with with clean metal, um, on dumb. Then I will show you how to make it twisted 9. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - twisting the wire: thing is the fun bit of the class. This is where we're going to put the twists into this section of the wire. Here this middle sections of it is being flattened. I have a touched my cramp to my bench. Pake. My desk is actually slightly is about 34 millimeters too thick for me to attach it to come to, but it's it's held securely onto here. Andi, I've put the wire in. She just show you that Sony about about seven, maybe eight millimeters. That's in there. That's worth saying at this point again. We're saying at this point that sending this for the rolling mill stretched this section out by about another centimeter. So I had, um, marked out of seven center we stretch. That's is about eight centimeters now, which means that the overall length off the wire is the best part of 23 centimeters such a of such millimeters, which means that it was a little bit more of the end to grab hold off as I'm twisting the wire around, and that's going to be cut off. Describe because we won't need it to make the bangle so the other end down here is this I want you got. I've come into the with the camera, close enough So hopefully you can see the metal twisting up. But who? Enough sleep. You can see the whole length of the metal. So I'm going to use these tweezers to very tightly. Hold on to the end of the wire on What I'm going to do is turn this same. Doesn't matter whether I do it cock wise or anti clockwise as long as I decide what one direction and keep to that direction. Andi, To help make the twist soon here as even as possible. I'm going to when you can see this moving a little bit. But I'm going to keep pressure on here. Gonna heat this nice and talk if I don't have a just as it twists. But don't keep this particularly talked then that it increases the chance off this section , becoming even which still looks nice. But it's not what I'm trying to show you. So I have to bear with me as I start used these pliers to get the right pressure on them. But we go starting. We go. The first twist, it's starting. I'm going to Let's do a little bit with this thing coming closer with the camera. See, you can see, uh, the twist that's being created. Hey, so started putting in Twist in, But it's very difficult to see with the camera this far away. So I'm going to meet a camera and a little bit closer so that I could feel it there so that you can actually see it now that I'm coming closer with the camera should be able to see has a nice twists going on in this section. The Why Here's twisting round, Um, so I'm going to do now is continue holding a wide taught and twisting it around a little bit so that we get more buttresses. Nothing up here yet you might get in and out of focus on Frank's. It's so close. Stop it again. I can definitely see a twist the but you can sit twisting up, so I think I'm going to hold us. Finish that one. It's nice. I'm going to finish it at that point, says nice twists in there, so it feels really nice as well, so I'll go fish at that point. I now need to re measure the bangle cut off the wire that we don't need 10. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - trimming the wire: Now that my wife has got some beautiful twists in it, they're really pleased that they feel absolutely lovely. Very tactile. But I've got those there. I can trim the bit of access wire off the end member I worked out I needed 208 millimeters Teoh make the bangle to faint millimeters of two millimeter diameter round So civil. Why I increase that by a centimeter on. But I rolled out the middle section that gave me another centimeter. So I had a I was about to hold on to at the end. But now I don't need them. In fact, I want to get rid of them. You see the marks that's CM supplies strong plies left on the end there. So I want to get rid of those. So I have marked with a Sharpie both ends. How much I won't come off. So that is now my next job. Thank you so much. On and ST the other end. I find that later. So that's now the right length. However, the ends of the wire not bad story in cross. They are unlikely to be beautifully, um, square. So I want to use my clutch file on the engineers where to do a little work for with the work on Yen's Why? Once I've done that, I can soldier it. So I went to I like to hold the wire across the bench pike so that it is across there right about Well, first, I can get it to right angles with experience. You can do this by I, but having a flat that square ended file there does help. They're gonna hold the file power healthy and should thank thank by breaking going across the wire. Nice. So far, Strokes heavy movements. House beef is efficient as possible. See that shiny end where it should be filed? Andi, With this round, why doesn't take very much? I am checking with the Engineers Square. I've got C Y arcas handle taken touch the top here. And if I can see any light coming through, that tells me it's not square. So I obtain the wire around to see it going across the different angles. I can see definitely a little bit more checked again. It's good Those last two file strikes did that sense. That's fine. Look at the same before I start firing. That's not going to need much. That's good. And just where is very, very useful. So the ends are now ready for soldering. I can see now the twist is no longer exactly in the middle. I cut off more on this end, United on this end, that end was untidy. A But now I don't do is two fold this round so that the end of the wire meet head on. Andi, if you've seen my ring classes before, so it's sucking rings glass or the the plane Bangles Class 100 Bangles class your scene. It's kind of thing before, So I am looks, um, spending that around into a U shaped. First of all, and that is quite a a spring in this. Why? Because this end has become hardened again. If you find that it's too hard to bend round, then do a Neil it before you do this section. I'm now going to use half applies to help me bend. That should move. Uh, I'm not turned over that She you played the ends a little bit until I sit on when we go, so they're sitting neatly. My next job is going to be soldering those sounds together 11. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - soldering: I think the bangle on the soldering brick so that the doing is here facing towards me. I'm going to put a nice drop of flops on the joy ing on a couple pieces of easy soldier on the inside couple pieces because my pieces of a small on easy soldier, because there is only one joined to worry about so I can get away with just using Easy Soldier. The reason why I like to put easy soldier in the insight just in case you haven't have you mentioned this before is that solder flows to the hottest part of your work. So I'm going to brush across the front with a flame to dry the flux off quite slowly. That reduces the chance of the Palins jumping off. Thank going to go around heat up whole bangle because a lot of the silver needs to be the right temperature, and then we'll consider it a reddish tinge to the metal. Andi the Flux looks as if it's gone a darker, glossy or glassy appearance. Those of two indicators that I've got close to melting temperature are then come back to the front and go back and forth across the front to draw the soldier through from the inside to the outside nicely through the joint to make a strong join. So well, I speak. You're a flux member. Don't need to push everywhere. Just join and okay, couple pieces off. They came out nice and quickly and went on the bangle very easily. It doesn't always happen like that, but now those are in place. Just insight. Funny that setting up a soldering worked that quickly and easily each every time that some especially while I'm filming it would be nice. So big touch, small talk which doesnt wouldn't do this job way. Ah, you can hear me. My cease white bubbles of the drive flux There should be dry the way around. Well, you know, I shouldn't have mentioned anything about setting up with silver and going. He's going easily because now I've got the opportunity. Show you how to put something right. But how do you find that useful? Um, what happened here is that the wise started to spring open. So would be a step here. If I were to continue that, that step would be at the sort of joint and social and be really, really obvious. So for my soldier picked down, I picked up a pair off reverse action tweezers on what I'm going to do. Not yet because I don't want to not soldier off. But as the solder melts and flows, I'm going to come across. I'm going to squeeze those together, hold them together until the soldier heat second away on the soldier has become solid against overflowing on. That will solve the problem. I could get away with it because it's only sprung a little bit if it continued to spring mawr than I will clean everything up on, Guy will reset everything up. But hopefully, hopefully this will be fine. Maybe around get a better view. So I think come this time. So hopefully you're seen bright flash of the liquid solder. I pushed them together, but it was still sitting up with a little bit on this side. So before the soldier had gone solid, I pushed down on this side as well. Sir, if I quench this, do you still like sound crazy or for these years it's It's safe to handle that feels like a nice through the strait to soldier join so I can now get on with putting us in a pickle. Ondo getting on with finishing the bangle 12. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - shaping the bangle: thing is my favorite part of making a bangle turning, which is rather miss shaping, has only just being cleaned up into something that definitely looks like a nice bangle. So I'm going to pop it over the top to be bangle mando Just what you can see here, um, on and I'm going to use tonight on hammock for So I've used a hammer in. This girl's very unusual that on I'm going to use that to no hit downwards, but to hit in to encourage the bangle into a nice round shape. You can see it's moving down. Yes, I do. Say, is it becoming more fake with bangle Mandel? Okay, well, better already now. I haven't hammered so far on twisted section Do that last because I'm a little bit more gentle with twisted section. She do it so see why this is my favorite bitch. Now what? She looks like a bangle hair bangle with a soldier in each tidying up. I have angle with a I decided wobble to it. So to get rid of that wobble. Good move. That's out of the way. Andi put show for going to move the camera for this picture, you can actually see what I'm doing. Take a piece of words that I usually drill into on resting the bangle. On top of that, basically going to How am I down those sections? You can see how easy it is. The reason why I'm hammering toe would is if I was toe hammer into something like my steel bench block. Then that would be to harshest surface behind my silver, which is started flashing out the profile of the round wire and to start damage, twist their readers that you can see that has there. When I searched the proper amount, I'm not hammering into my life's desk because of the it does pick up marks. I don't want a hammer. Big marks into it. I like it how it is, so that definitely looks more like a bangle. Just need to tidy up soldier Join before giving it a Polish 13. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - filing and sanding: e tired yet, so join Don't definitely don't want to leave. It was messy. Assassins, obviously that I can see it. I can feel it. Andi, Ideally, I don't want to be on to do either. So I'm going to use my half round file. I'm going to use the flat side of its do the outside of the bangle on the inside. So the cup side to do the inside of the bangle, urge the edges sites as well. And I'm going to use the emery paper. See Justin view here to clean up the marks left by the file. So you don't file just at the join. You want to start a bit further back and so weep over. If you file just a the join into following the shape of the wire, then you're going to end up with a flatter section, which is more obvious on what we're trying to do is make the joy bless, obvious. So I'm not putting much pressure. A tool on the file, in fact, is touching my finger every now and again. It's just tickling it. I'll see. I wouldn't want to keep touching my finger. Lots and lots of lots, but just a little bit. Is is okay. I was telling him around to go from the other side. You can see the areas from filing has become shiny er and set in the top there. Now, I can hardly feel that soldiers Europe affairs only ages one billion side. So I'm gonna do the inside with the whole frowned. And you can either have the bangle on the bench rested on the bank here or holding top is completely up to you, but again, trying to use the whole length. But I'm not just finding that section that little twist to my wrist so that it sweeps across a little bit. Also, just chipping the wire over bank I was Well, so that file follows the shape for cell, keeps the wire around it doesnt lead to much talking bottom societies and used to some more to Now, um, doesn't eat too much. Talk by top and bottom me. The outside of the inside wasn't too much there because I took the time to tidy up that soldiers get everything lined up again. Now, here again, I'm going to use the rounded side priorities flat side those the edges. The fire would come into contact with the wire and could potentially more marks. So that turnover you surrounded side again, sweeping across, checking, joining. I am using my fingers on much of my eyes to feel everything. What that now a little bit in there, actually that specialize, that now feels me nice. However, there are file marks on that silver that I don't want, so I'm going to use 240 grit my courses. Emery paper first not finding it's not funding mother for the way around, just sounding where my filed Theo job to 40 is to get rid of the fire marks. From then, if I worked my way through the other grades of Emery paper, they will leave. They will move rather remarks by the previous freight until by the time I get to the 2000 grit she saw, - I find that I spend the longest with 240 grit courses, marks to remove, and then the following grades get quicker, quicker five hundreds. Next, just this one full and again, still using my fingers fingers still sensitive enough to feel any rough patches. So 1 to 1200. Finally, in 2000 I have noticed, actually understanding a little bit further around the bangle each time just to make sure that with each subsequent grade off emery paper, I'm covering the three areas cited with the previous. Want to make sure this site to remove all the marks. So two things I'm going to do to the spangled Out 1st 1 is the son. Better put it back on the bangle Mandel on Just get it toe shoot up again because I think having handling is finding it so lightly, ever so slightly out of true around, like tap that back into his position and then I'm going to publish it. 14. Twisted Ribbon Bangles - final thoughts: I'm really pleased with my lovely new shiny bangle. And as you can see the twist why really to catch the light beautifully. I'm showing it here with another Bangles I've made again out off the two millimeter round wire. But for this spangle, I rose wire out thinner. Andi didn't do quite so many twists, so you can see that you can get different looks from the same technique. Having the two sitting together like this also shows you that they do look beautiful when warning sets. So I think I'm going to be making some more. I'm looking forward to seeing the Bangles that you make on. If you have any questions about the techniques covered in the class, please do awesome and I'll get back to quickly can thank you for watching