Intermediate Silversmithing - Stone Set Rings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

Intermediate Silversmithing - Stone Set Rings

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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18 Lessons (2h 35m)
    • 1. Stone Set Rings

      1:38
    • 2. Stone Set Rings - materials

      4:20
    • 3. Stone Set Rings - equipment

      9:00
    • 4. Stone Set Rings - soldering equipment

      3:38
    • 5. Stone Set Rings - preparing the rings

      4:29
    • 6. Stone Set Rings - preparing the bezel strip

      16:07
    • 7. Stone Set Rings - soldering the bezel strip

      6:55
    • 8. Stone Set Rings - filing the bezel joins

      13:43
    • 9. Stone Set Rings - fitting the bezels

      14:13
    • 10. Stone Set Rings - cutting the discs

      6:05
    • 11. Stone Set Rings - soldering the settings

      14:02
    • 12. Stone Set Rings - filing the settings

      10:03
    • 13. Stone Set Rings - finding the solder join

      1:19
    • 14. Stone Set Rings - preparing the rings 2

      6:42
    • 15. Stone Set Rings - soldering the settings 2

      11:12
    • 16. Stone Set Rings - setting the stones

      23:01
    • 17. Stone Set Rings - bonus: enlarging bezels

      6:31
    • 18. Stone Set Rings - final thoughts

      2:16

About This Class

Welcome to the Stone Set Rings Class, part of a new series that will take all the techniques you have learnt in Silversmithing for Beginners and add a challenge to help you advance your skills!

Intermediate Silversmithing will include more advanced soldering and sawing skills, forging, mixed metals and much more, and in this class the focus is on stone setting. You will be taking rings from the Simple Hammered Rings class (see link below) and learning how to make simple bezel settings to add beautiful stones to your rings. I'll be there to help you every step of the way, with troubleshooting tips and some hints to help you get the settings made to a perfect size. This is the longest class I have published so far, but that's because this is a detailed class, sharing all the tips I include in my workshops. We will be covering two variations on the basic setting, as you can see below.

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The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document. Do remember that all the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects! The second downloadable class document available is a chart listing ring sizes.

If you haven't already done so, I recommend watching the Simple Hammered Rings class before taking this class:

Transcripts

1. Stone Set Rings: Hello, My name's Giant Tinley. I'm a joy designer and tutor from South Coast UK on Welcome to the Stone. Such rings. Worse, This is part of a new Siris of intermediate classes that build on skills cover in my beginner's class. So, for example, this class starts off with a simple hammer ring made in simple Hamid rings class. So if you are not already confident we're making that type of ring, then I do recommend you go back to that beginners class and then come back enjoying us. Search. I can help you to advance your skills on Make a more complex project. This says, I think the longest classes I filled so far, but that's because I'm trying to take you through everything that you need step by step on dive include some troubleshooting as well. You're going to be making the vessel from scratch using metal wire and sunny so sheet. And then, of course, I'll be taken filled with techniques you need to try. She set the stones. We're going to be going through two slightly different variations on the stone setting to help you get the most out of class, as the techniques covered And, of course, once you're confident with the stone settings, you're going to be able to use the techniques in class to add them to earrings, pendants, whichever takes your fancy. So if you're ready, let's have a look at the materials and equipment that you're going to need to make the rings. 2. Stone Set Rings - materials: the's of the materials that I'm going to use to make two stone set rings on going to be making two says I can show you a couple of different techniques. I'm going to be using two millimeter around sterling silver wire. That's about 12 gauge. Andi, I've got a lynx off square. Why here? That I've rolled through my rolling mill. It started off, actually, is the off cut off two millimeter around wire that wasn't really long enough to make a ring from so wrote it for the rolling mill is now about 1.35 millimeters. That's around about a 16 gauge on its now long enough to make one ring. So I thought I'd do such in this class as well. If you're going to use round wire in this project, then I suggest anything from I wouldn't really go below 1.5, because that's going to get a little bit too thing I think. Teoh toe hold more than a very small stone. Have the strength to hold up Stone Square. Why, you would go a little bit thinner so you can us. You can see what I'm using. You can go down to about maybe 1.21 point three, because square wire is a little bit stronger purely because of its shape. But this project, the sick list wire, is what I think is why he uses really up to your personal taste. But personally, I prefer for this project a wire. This isn't too thin, so two millimeters or put it maybe 2.2 is thief thickest that I turned to go. You've also got the option to use D shape or half round wire over wire or rectangular wife this project. So it's a great project, using up any relatively short piece of why that you've got left over from other projects. I've got a selection of lovely semi precious stones here. I've got the Labrador, right Rose quartz, mutilated courts back Marine Garnett, Andi AM a fist. And then his sight is arranging form five millimeters up to, I think, just above seven millimeters. They're all cabbage. John's so they've got flat backs on. Don't tops. They may notice that the rose courses actually faceted on the top. It's not smooth. Like the others, it's what's known as a rose cut is not known as a road cut because it is rose quartz. You can get Rosie. Cut stones in other types of stones as well. The type of stone cut rather because of the type of stone toehold those stones on the ring . I'm going to need to make a battle setting on. I've got some pre made metal strip here. The better wine, as I use, is fine silver rather than sterling, cause it's a bit softer, more malleable and easy to use, especially with such small stones, and it is no 0.3 millimeters thick. The height of the wire is so one piece that is three millimeters on one piece of his four millimeters in the U. K three and five kilometers are the easiest to get hold off a very good range of stock ISS , but you can also buy it in 46 and even going up to 10 millimeters as well. Later on the class, I'll help you to work out the height off, the better while that you're going to need depending on the height of your stone to stop, see Stone for falling out off the vessel settings I'm going be making. I got a couple pieces off scrap Sony silver wire on. They're going to form a base plate at the bottom of the setting toe. Hold this stone in place. These pieces are to something different sicknesses. And I explain why, as I go through the variations that I talked about, Ah, one pieces about not 10.5 on the other beast is about 2.7 millimeters thick. 3. Stone Set Rings - equipment: Now, you do need quite a few hand tools to make a sense entering. So I've actually divided it into two sections because I couldn't fit them all on the 11 screenshot. So these are the equipment, the handles that you're going to need to make the ring shank the ring part. I show you the tools that we need for making a stone setting, actually setting a stone in the second half of this part of the class. Now, as I was going to look like a lot of tools, please do remember that, actually, all of these tools can be used in many other different projects. I've really got to other ring classes, for example, that use all the piece of equipment that are in front of you at the moment. So I decided, Although it's going to look like a lot of tools, they have a lot of different uses. You're really going to get your money's worth out of them. So, as I said, these are tools that you don't need to make the actual ring heart. And although I'm going to refer you to a different class that showed you exactly how to make the Royals and repeating that information in this class are still going to run through with you. What these tools are quickly watch job. They're useful of what two sets of ring sizes, one metal and one plastic, or C. The plastic ones are a lot cheaper, but they may not last long. They also don't have the half sizes they are both. It's made using the week chief system, which is the system of ring sizing use in the UK off receiving it ring sizes for other countries, systems as well. And in the class downloads, you'll find a pdf comparing the different ring size systems for each country on door. So the inside Amma tied insights. A conference for each size as well is actually incited conference. That's the important measurement for making a ring. Some of you guys use the ring scientist to help you work out what size of ring I want to make. Andi, I've got to ring. Mandel's here that your so going to help me do that job. One of thumb is marked with a ring sizes that's a week chief stick or inciting stick. On. The other is a plane ring triplet Andi In the simple Hamid rings class, you'll see both of those being used to form the rings the jurors saw on the bench. Paige are both used to cut the wire that used to make the ring in preparation for soldering on Duthie. April underneath catches the silver dust so they can't be saved on recycled as a later date . After the rings, soldiers need to use 1/2 round, six inch file to clean up around soldier. Join on, then various great of Emery paper to remove the marks left by the file on I've got 245 101,200 on 2000 great Emery paper, but three hammers here. The black nylon hammer is used initially to shape the wire around the triplet in preparation for soldering on, also used to make sure the ring is nice and flat. The other two Hummers are there for texture Ring. The nine on your pliers are used before forming the wire and the triplet, just to make sure that the wire it hasn't got any kinks in it that will make it more difficult to work with the old battered piece of wood is used when I'm flattening the rings because otherwise I I'd be hammering on my wooden desk and leave marks on that which I really don't want to. I use a nice, fine tip sharply to mark the wire to indicate where I went to cut it after it's being formed around the triplet on the job of the other, Cushion is just to support other tools that are working on them, makes them easier to work with and also helps to keep the noise down a little bit onto the chores. Some going to need Teoh make the stone setting and set the stone. Then, on dure, notice that a couple of these tools are used for both making the ring and making the stone setting. As you've seen in the material section of the class, I'm using a couple pieces of scrap silver sheet to make the base the bottom off the stone, setting on da much going to use the disc Attar to cut those out. Hartley Because I'm actually going to leave one of the base plates, actually a circle with a bit of the sheets sticking out past the stone setting on. Also because the stones that have chosen to use all round. So it's using a discussion. If you got access to one is a nice, simple way off getting a small piece of sheet that's suitable for your stone and doesn't produce. Ah, a great deal of scrap. However it just cut. It is not compulsory. You can saw a small piece of silver sheet off instead. Another couple of tools that are useful but again, not essential. Arthuis. Step Mandel on the Step Mandel pliers that I've got here as the stones I'm using around. I'm going to use ash. This step, Mandel applies to start forming the basil wire into a circle just to make it a little bit easier to shape it around the small stone. I find it a little bit less fiddly to start shaping it with Set Manned applies on the step Mandel without the playa bit, who would do the same job as well. However, you can use your fingers, you can just bend around, so so there's a useful if you've really got them, but they're not essential. Before shaping the basil wire. I'm just going to smooth out any kinks that it might having it with an eye on your pires in the same way that I do before making the ring out off the thicker wire. I'm going to use a Sharpie to mark where I want to cut the basil wire on because it's so thin I can get away with a pair of re good quality wire cutters to just snip through the metal strip with a better wire after soldering. The special setting is going to need a little bit of cleaning up around solder joints, so I've got 1/2 round needle file to do the job there. I've got a very small round triplets. I'm going to use that with E nylon hammer, which again I use making a ring, going to use those two together to make sure that the vessel setting after it's been soldiers and filed is nice and round on nice and smooth. I'm going to hit the punches off the discussed er through the silver with an old hammer. Remember, I use that old Hamas because it's going to pick up marks from the punches. If I were to use a text during hammer, it would ruin the texture in Hama because the marks get transferred onto the silver on the cross. Being hammer is going to be used to decorate one of the discs. I was a steel bench block Andi a steel road here because I'm going to show you a trick to help in large vessel settings if you need to enlarge in just a little bit. This steel wallet is actually part of the set of Mandel's that I wrap wire around to form jump rings. But if you haven't got anything like that, then a metal nitty needle would do the job. Justus. Well, last, but by no means least, are the tools that actually used for setting the stone once the ring is actually nicer. Finishing detection soldiers and pushed, of course, embezzle pusher Andi that's used to start setting stone to push the buzzer wall up against a stone and start pushing the basil over Andi. I've got two different types of burnishes, so I can show you both of them on those who used to finish setting to make sure it's really nice secure, and to put a really nice finish on your stone setting the large wooden tool with the wing nut toe. One site is a ring cramp. This is not essential for the project, but it certainly would make your life easier if you use the ring clamp as its name suggests you example. The ring inside it toe hold it still hold it securely on. It makes life a lot easier when it comes to setting the stones. 4. Stone Set Rings - soldering equipment: This is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings, and so pendants everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mounting temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to refill cigarette lighter at the back of a picture, you can see a slow cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution go to safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flames before cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that Caprock sides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Stone Set Rings - preparing the rings: I've mentioned before in the simple Hamid rings fast that you have to be a lot more careful when you're using square wire to for murdering. Because as you bend wire, it twists likely around. Why you don't notice that twist. There are no corners that drew your eye to how the Y has moved but square, while the Roxy is even on this one. The Thai formed by running through my mill so it's not truly square. The the corners of it cushioned. But there's still enough for corn off. You got to notice when the wire twists. So in this part of the show you how carefully I fall the square wire around the triplet, just taking it a little bit of time and tapping quite gently with the 9 11 hammer. It doesn't take very much a tool. I kneel to the wire before I started, which is wiser, adult whiter, color on. And I did that because it went through the rolling mill, so have become really quite work hardened as it went through the mail. So Neil did make his easiest possible to work with, which means that I can hit it nice and gently within our own hammer. Just bend a little bit around the triple it at a time. I'm hammering on a normal green triplet rosin on week chief stick because the marks a week chief stick could mark the metal and sometimes metal. This thing concurred. Must get caught in the grooves as well. You have to a hammer in the past, so grooves. But you can see that I've marked on the triple it where, in this case aside oh, gives I use serving sizes to Marcus Aiso that normal, I'm starting to hammer around it. A much smaller section attribute it to get into a nice round shape. And then I'm using the night on hammer once everything Sison around to resize the ring around two on. Oh, I had a look at where the wires cross over before I put Sharpie mark on there just to see if there was a point where the wire was particularly twisted. Should I avoid that bit? Sorry. Push it whether the wire is really nice and still swear and untwist id. But I'm taking the ring off the triplets. You can see that it's become quite spring again because I've been hammering. It s so it's not Springer than the round wire because it was formed for the rolling mill. So what I'm having to do is pull the wire back a little bit, trying to keep his much the round shape as possible. But putting it back a little bit to wear those marks meat so that everything's back to the right size and then cutting through. But that mark. - So that ring is now ready to solder. It might need shaping into a perfect circle with the distributor, and I own Hammer After it's sold together, I'm going to use medium soldier to soldier Big closed so that when I come to put the stone setting on top of the ring, I can use Easy soldier. I'm not risk re melting social joint. 6. Stone Set Rings - preparing the bezel strip: the type of stone setting something to show you how to make is a vessel setting, which has a wall of metal in this face. Silver that's formed around a so as a backing to stone setting sister got fallout on the wall has to be tall enough so that it can start pushed over or rubbed over the curve of the cabbage, trying to hold it in place So it's quite off to refer to a type of rob over setting. No, always has to be a little bit of ah, careful balance to make sure that you've got enough silver to hold the stone in place, but not too much silver. So covers too much of the stone. Because, of course, it's a beautiful stone that you want to show off in this design. And just look at the beautiful electric blue flash and that with appetite there, I've got a eight millimeter Labrador sites on a six millimeter amethyst. I'm going to use the AM assist with square wire ring on the appetite for the around wiring . I've also got an oval smoky quartz stone here on Did you could use a smoking court you could use oval stone for this project, and you could, if you wanted to go, is because this one The reason, however I've got this one out is a second illustrate to you how to check which is size of metal strip or better. Why you need now. In this shot, I'm holding a piece off three millimeter tall metal strip up against the smoky courts. Andi, it's not quite tall enough. It doesn't go far enough up the stone. There's not enough silver here to be able to cope over the stone enough to hold it insecurely. However, if you have a look with the four millimeter vessel strip, there is enough there, especially if I put my finger behind so that you can see a lighter surface behind. You can see that light of surface showing in between the curve, the stone, and it's curving away from silver on the silver wall itself. Now, if you had to stone like this, they're on before millimeters perfectly. Didn't actually have any four millimeter. Then five millimeter would do. You just have to file down the top quite a bit to make sure that you didn't have too much silver hiding the stones would have to reduce the height by a little bit. However, with both the amethyst on and the Labrador site, you can see that three millimeters is a good fit for both of these stones. In fact, with the AM assist, I think we are going to have to reduce the height a little bit bowl. We'll see how it is when we actually get to that stage. In fact, whether or not the height of the basil has to be reduced for either, the Stones were still going to have to file top and bottom off setting to make sure that soldier join is nice and neat. Then there's no step in it, and you'll see what I mean when we get to that stage of the class. So let's move the four million on dis lovely smoking courts at the way I do like Smoky Court six seems to go with absolutely everything. Onda will show you on Leah with appetite because it's bigger. It's easier to see how to actually form the had to cut the wire house. Make sure we've got enough of the better wire bustle strip to be able to go all the way around. So now you could, and I know that people do workouts that it's on eight millimeter diamond a stone and therefore you calculates us a conference, and from that you work out the lengths of why that's needed to go around. That's a conference, but I actually prefer to cut the mass out on, actually wrap the wire around, or the battle strip around the stone so they bring the camera in a little bit closer. See, you got a better view of how I do that. The first thing I'm going to do is use the nylon, your pliers to smooth out or few kinks there are in the swire. It just makes it a lot easier to do. Next, saves a job, so just fatty, gently just pulling through. Now you do have to do this more gently than you might do with a sick of piece of saying silver. Why? Because it is only fine silver. If you grew Bree tightly and pull really hard, but you cannot. She stretch the wire out, and I found that because on these plants you tend to have a closer grip or tight a grip father towards the the pivot of supplies. Thing you do is tip you could actually cause it is only fine silver, which is so soft you could actually put a curve into the wire. So I stick quite generally, do it a few times, and also she just so I turned the wire over as well, so that some I reduce the possibility of pulling it round tour. Now, if this was the biggest zone, I just hold the wire up against the stone and start bending it around. But because it's so small makes a little bit more difficult. Hold on tunnels. If I do that, you should see anything apart. But I figure tips. I've got another two that could help me out on That's my set. Mandel pliers. So what I'm going to do, um, looking at these, they hope. Sorry. The person knows the bottom part of those noses is too big. Um, so I'm going to just start to put a curve into such former circle with swell upside down J around the mandrell. It just makes it easier than just push that over the stone. The reason for going for a smaller size on the step Mandel on my stones is because it CD just to push the they're better strip on on in large. That curve just fought and then I just hold on to it. Andi partly turning stone, partly pulling the wire. Just pull it around. I want to make sure that it is a really nice tight fit so, ideally, are about to pick us up on Duthie Stone. Stay inside. I'm going to just put a mark with sharp eat years that mark with Sharpie. There he's just where just where the It's about a crossover. I actually prefer a facing to make the puzzles a little bit tighter than they need to in the same kind of way that I like to make the rings. If anything tighter, too big because it is is your sealed another section of France. It is very easy to make the battles a little bit bigger, but to make them smaller, you have to cut them open. Andi goes a bit more firing and so on. We sold them close together. We'll find a bigger state. Someone's gonna open this up a little bit. So So I'm making sure I am only cutting through of that section there. I'm going to use gotten realize her good quality cutters hold those across. So they are. But best as I can imagine, I can manage rather a right angle going across that little strip. Just simply, Some people prefer to use a pair of dental scissors to cut through. Which part you re life. Nice finish. I mean to get hold of pair, but I haven't yet. Anybody speak more nicely to my dentist, Zephyr. They might have an old pair going spare, which that Why Qatar has done the job. I see. So put that were upset. So put that one side. We go see those there. Andi, I'm going to do the same thing. I'm assist. So again. Still nicest. Smooth. Sweet off. Enough. I'm just going to use the smaller sectional there. Now, just again to start putting of, push that down on top of stone and then start rather what you've noticed. I've pulling it round in the opposite direction. Cited before. Second said you can go either way against nice type. Fits that. Hammerfest is still in there. Excuse me. Where my finger hide City little bit. Keep it still. My son mother, You just still I put that mark into the embassy. Uh, the Sharpie mark again, cut across. It's straight across as I possibly can. Okay, so that's why I cut size. What I need to do now is make sure that the ends off both ends of both pieces of strip are nice and square because justice, if you making a ring or a bangle, I'm going to need those ends to meet head on so that they form a nice, tidy going. So it's a nice a strong soldier joint. So move the stones out of the way. By the way, I'm keeping the stones now in a plastic tub that will be sitting out of sight in my desk of questions. Have actually doing that because having the tiny stones sitting in something bigger, Um hey, so let's like she'll lose thumb. So there's another tip for you, right? As I said, I need to make sure that the both ends of these are nice and square at the moment. They're not bad, but I'm going to use the flat side of that half our needle file to make sure that they're good. However, before that, just to make it easier. Two for the file to get access to those ends. Just going shoes you can see flatter than both. With the, um don't you apply us my fingers as well. Didn't quite gently because I don't want to Well, seeing kinks in the UAE. So she said, But dont sir, to see the difference in lengths between a six millimeter under 18 millimeter stone. So he's my needle file on and just going to hold the vessel that show. I'm gonna move to come before I do that cause I like to work on the bench, Paige seeking get a better view of what I'm doing. So this is fresh identical to when I'm making a bangle, or ring from a long strip of wives, them going to form into a Kaptur D shape with the ends meeting head on because some kind do in miniature here. So I've got the piece of metal strip for the Labrador, right that the larger of the two stones. I'm just going to hold it down with my thumbs. As moves are finally, I've got it held at right angles across the bench. Paige, just the end sticking off a little bit so that as I hold the flat side of the file, how will oust the end of the bunch? I couldn't then knows that the personal strip is going to end up with the right ankle. So why don't even hear the file actually doing anything? Because it is such software. Such a a small file that's a softer self metal that doesn't need need much effort it'll, But that's looking my sense straight. You can use NGOs square, especially if you got a small one. Just toe check the ends nice and square. But about something a small. I tend to do it by by. I lost the time. Um, I know, of course. The final test is when you bend round on the ends meet, and if they don't meet what you know that they're not square. It is same to other side as well. Also making sure that because the wire cutters tend to squash the wire before actually cutting it, and that she also just making sure that, um, any bubbles that might be on the bench of the UAE there, it's so cool it off. So that's enough of that. Certainly do now is, sir, just bend over using fingers or whatever applies you've got to hand has bend over the metal wire so that the ends oh, sitting head on to each other. It takes a little bit of frightening about because because it's such soft metal answer thin . Despite it being very small, it is quite easy to bend round having a look from all directions, just making sure I'm moving things about with my my fingers if need be, just making sure that everything lined up that way around, uh, but my rounds, If I made that about the light, she still can see join there. So that's one ready. I'm going to get the setting with these soldiers said. If the amethyst soldier Andi then take most of the service station to do so, join such will be the next thing that you will see 7. Stone Set Rings - soldering the bezel strip: I bought both settings over and put them on a soldering break because I'm now going to solve these very small pieces of silver so that they are soldered into a complete ring. That saying going to go around the stones have got the amethyst setting here. Other large appetites setting here both made remember, out of three millimeter little strip, find civil. Better strip. This is very similar to, um, soldering a ring or bangle or even to some extent, the soldering a link honor a chain close. We're going to need a drop flux on each. But they can't you use hard soldier on. The reason for this is that remember that the ring has been soldier would meet him. Soldier for hard soldier soldering The best shit closed with that 90 views medium soldier to soldier at the finish puzzle Better strip onto the backing plate on then That leaves us with easy soldier. That weaken sold the stone setting onto the ring. So although this is a very small piece of silver, we're going to use hard solder. But that means that we don't have to keep very careful eye on the silver. Make sure it is heated evenly and make sure that the flame it's removed as soon as a soldier melts and flows out. So what chunk pieces of top of hard soda? Palin's just out of sites. There's one much spare seek lynching on the paintbrush on to, So I Am. But she doesn't want to come off. That's better. No, it's for enough inside, of course, which is sometimes stuffing everything up to soldier. Is that her longer job, the naturally made doing a soldering itself? No. What? We're gonna do them. It's me. The option show Something else is the piece of soldier. It's just her where everything is very small, so I'm having to point out to you exactly where everything is. So what I'm going to do instead is actually move the setting so that it is sitting on top of the piece of soldier so that you want the join on top of the piece of soldier reason why I prefer to put on the inside the joints if I can, which is what's happened with the amethyst here. Behaved itself is that on her brush across the front to make sure that the flux is dry so it doesn't bubble up too much into the pop soldier off. I'm then going to heat the whole piece to get its soldering temperature on, then just brushed the flame back and forth again. Cross the front to make the heart the front. The hottest piece stole the flows to the hottest part of your work. Set your phone to the inside note. I say it's going to flow. It's gonna do what it's told. Clothes from the inside to the outside, with a nice line soldier appearing across the joint. This one. I'm still going to brush across the, um, the front to dry the Flux software, though, because they're soldiers awake doubt. It's actually that's like to move again. He ate the whole thing. Make a fun hottest, but I'm also going to raise the flame pops the top here just to help True the soldier all the way along. Using small that's that one done. E talked about doing it because it is so small. I t concentrate on on making sure that sold was flowing where I wanted it to. So see just about saying I saw the soldier down the front there. Um, if by the way either. Thes joints don't take What I do is make sure clean silver up, sexed up again and give it to go again. Um, so that one's done your note. By the way, there's no copper oxides forming. That's because there's no copper in the phone silver. So although I'm still going to put them in the pickle to clean up, that's to get rid of the excess flux. Not to get rid off any observation because it's not there struggling up there and they're dying back down again, enjoying the top to the top. We have notices. Well, I'm not having the flame quite as close to the workers I would do if it was a bigger piece of silver, just to make sure I'm not melting it this once, where it will be easier to see when the soldier and mounted because a soldier was propping the puzzle setter. But a wire up the Basel while sat down from it more as a soldier melted and flowed into the silver. So again, that one's done so it's a bit more visible on that one, but they both need to be quenched ago in the pickle to get rid of the access flux on. Then I'll show you have clean them up 8. Stone Set Rings - filing the bezel joins: both vessels now being cleaned up in the pickle on and thankfully, both joints. We're nice and strong, really good ones. As I said, if either source joins hadn't taken either because you hadn't realized this old flown or the silver phone on one side rather than the other one side to join, then just clean everything out. Apply a little bit more flux, a little bit more solder and try it again carefully making sure that you do heat up evenly . The main reason I find that these vessels do not soldier properly not sort of strongly is because student has heated up too much on one side of the joint than the other. And, of course, because solder flows to the hottest part of your work, it flow to one side the joint, not the other, and certainly not through. As you can see, I've really shaped the vessel for the AM assist, but the leopard ites still looks very squashed, so I'm going to shape that one now. Let me use the small round chip it, but at the moment it's so squashed. Poor thing that it won't haber fit on that has any of thes after the way and for bit put them back in a box to show you earlier. Something going to do is just use burnish adjusted. Generally just twist that. But if you're in there very gently just to open it up, I could go on now. This is so soft that you cannot she just push it in, push the sides in, go and push it down. But I find if you only push it down to get it to fit the triplet then you could actually stretch it without realizing because this is a fine silver. So I find it far better to get more control and just the science in. They could see itself to move down anyway. But you're doing it with more control, as attributed. Taper him, Take it off, do it the other way up as well so that we can see what she was doing. It Rolling chip. It's so scary, as focused as I do that tonight. But I'm rolling triplet back before with my fingers. So although it looks as if I'm having on one part time, not much changed a battleground because I do. This is now a nice on bond around What I need to do now with both of these is to tidy up the soldier join. I'm going to use my half round needle file to tidy up. A soldier join officer was nice half round Jurij first or six. It filed or to cut six inch far, but there's no way that's going to fit inside. It would do the outside, but they weren't fit inside, said this one. It is just going to show you on the biggest setting purely because it will be easier for you to see as it's bigger. So the solder there's a little bit of access soldier on. Yes, I know very much a tool. Andi. A little bit all the inside as well. No, strictly speaking, you need to make sure that the outside looks good as well as feels good. The inside. It doesn't matter if it still looks a bit ugly, because when your service in there on the soldiers set, you're not going to see inside that better warm. However, you must absolutely must make certain that that still to join is smooth on the inside that you've got no excess soldier Nouriel bumps of solder that sticking out that could be pressed into the stone soldier is harder than that. The fine silver and stones sometimes have unseen weaknesses in them that you have absolutely no idea are there until something goes wrong with the last thing that you want is a hard piece of solder pushed up against a potential weakness are stone. So you must make sure that the inside even though even if it doesn't look particularly nice , it still is nice and smooth Having got the access soldier. So this again, if you just made your ring, you have just on the same kind of thing on the ring as we're about to do. So go to use the flat side to sweep across that soldier join untidy it up. Now you will probably find that the vessel wall. OK, a little bit. Swatch. Did you do this? You hold you between your finger and thumb because after all, it is only fine Silver. I can't too tight around your get me inside. We should be to see some of that round light that that's what you smooth 30 feels very nice . Let's do a little bit more this this direction. It doesn't matter if it's which is a little bit, because you could always tap it back into shape. So careful not to enlarge it. However, the reason why I touched into the round before filing is that it enables me to sweep over the soldier, join um, and without Doug courting damage elsewhere. If this sexual still flat, then as I try to sweep across I that should be catching a corner here and here. Not that wide on something like this. But you get the idea it would catch on the metal rather than as I sweep around uranium metal being caught by the file is the metal I want to be caught by the file are not damaging any other parts. Studi. Inside. I'm going to do put it down like something might get better. Views I do that again very much. Would like the rain going to try? Move uses much the length of the file, but twist it a little bit. That's honey twist, the hand said, making sure worse that everything is smooth in an effort to make as much of this visible on the cameras possible. Maybe not holding it. That's hard that I would do score as much as I would do. Try that instead. There we go. You can see flight twists on and turn it around to do the same the other way as well. It doesn't take very much. Keep dropping the peace, but to keep checking, just about putting tip my whole finger in there, I can feel it's just nice, nicest, smooth. There's nothing sticking out that not everything I need to do. If I show you that join again, try and get into. I would focus. White should be out hope. See, just about that. My nail is running up against something. No doubt the bottom for turning over again. But there, that's where the joinus. There will always be a little bit of a step in your soul to join. It's unavoidable. We're not machines. It is definitely going to have a little bit of step between two. You are not gonna be able to Linus up absolutely perfectly, so no soldering is going to be needed. Top bottom. So you're going to have to do this stage, and this is where I swap to the six inch file. But it's just easier working on that space elector. Wider space. Let's do this with a setting. This small I'm going to do have got the file resting on the other blocks doesn't matter that it's rounded underneath because it consists on the other question. Be absolutely fine. Remember that the silver and file have to move in only one direction relative to each other in order for it to happen for the fighting to occur. So you need the silver always to be moving towards the handle. It doesn't matter where you move the silver towards the handle or whether you use move the file. That way, it's still going to have the same impact so you can keep it fall. Still unjust pull, frankly, setting back towards the handle. It's an analyst now. Much hopefully notice is that each time I'm turning with setting just cynical bitch, and that is helping to make certain that I am firing as evenly as possible so I don't end up with the puzzle being short on one side. On the other do check frequently a shine on there, showing that the searching has definitely worked on this firing taking place on If I go back to Choi, just the since you can no longer feel they um, the step So you don't want to get you thinking now court there, you can stop. I moved on to the other side again. Don't worry if you get the setting slightly out of we weren't quite a bit. Actively the true round. You can always check back on the mantle. Okay. Can it's looking good, Franken else? No, no. What does she hold? No, it is getting caught. Just a little bench. Let's try again. By the way, don't worry if you have if you end up with, um Xer Silver that looked burgers pushed over the top and bottom where you've been filing that will come off. That's just a study Ettus Xer, Silver tea being finally side of it Get pushed over the sites. But that will go. There's not going to hinder your stone at all. Now I've actually already don't that to the amethyst on both those jobs cleaning up. So join on finding top and bottom toothy pharmacists setting. So no Shea groups that the pharmacist, if it's nicely I haven't thought she checked with Aphrodite yet. I'm kind of hoping it's too small. The setting is too small, so I can show you how to enlarge it. I will. Do you believe that it's a little bit low. It is perfect, isn't always the case. I want actually to be able to show you something Not quite right. So I can show you how to put it right. And it's not happening. So in a bonus section on the end of the class, I'm going to show you how to enlarge how to easily in large a a better war to get it to fit your stone when it's a little bit too strong. For now, though, will continue working on these. 9. Stone Set Rings - fitting the bezels: I brought a camera down lower so that you get a slightly different view off the stone settings. I want you to see them more from a side view so that I can show you whether the height of the better war is suitable for the So Remember for both stones. We started with three millimeter high vessels, but metal strip um, Andi. It looks good for the appetite. The stone on the right have the amethyst. It's too high. So if I do with the AM assist first of all, because it's sometimes easier to say what's wrong with something, and then you got to show you how it so it's looking good. So the rule is continuing to far above where the stone starts to curve over. And it's particularly obvious on this am a thesis that the amethyst color is glowing honey , or the inside the wall really looks quite nice. You can see quite a bit off silver raised a both where the stone starts to curve away from inside the wall. If I tried to set the stone with this height of basil, two things would be wrong. First of all, too much of that stone would be covered by the silver, and that's not the point of this setting. You want to make sure that said that those of balance between Justin ourselves to hold it in place nice and securely, but not so much that hides a stone because it's the stone that is the focus of the other design like this. The other thing that would happen is you be trying to move too much metal into too small. A space on the setting around the top would get wrinkled and very, very untied You that you would have excess material and you don't want that to happen. You want your battle setting to be nice and smooth up at the top so that one actually needs to be lowered on. And to do that, what I'm going to do is continue filing how you've just seen for the Labrador, right? Find top from bottom. I'm just going to find a one side to reduce that heights. I'll show you that in a moment. The lap rid ICT, however just right. It's very, very rare that I get setting made that fits perfectly around very, very reds like setting that fits perfectly around on also perfect height. So I'm really quite chuffed with that. So you should be out to sea, usually see, maybe on this side that you can see a little bit of silver sticking up past where the stone starts to curve. It's maybe half to 3/4 of a millimeter island stone this size. That is enough that allow that you need see, just a little bit of silver sicking up above the curve, the stone. But not so much that it's gonna cover too much on the amount of silver, the height of the vessel that will become easier to judge. The more of these you do, you almost need to make one that is too high on one that is too low to be the up to, then see what is just right. So you needed a bit of trying ever. Sometimes. So hope for the workshop will take you pass on that chunk error. But if you get yours not quite right. Don't despair because you will still learn a lot from it. So that one I'm going to put to one side for the moment until I have got to the am assist the right height. So I need to reduce the height of the better war for the AM assist even from moving the camera site fertile way you can still see. I hope that the wall is too high by the way, to think suspension now firstly, always is a Put your stone in from the top to check the fit who put the best local top Tell it over, which showed the top again. The reason for that is if you only ever check your stone and go, Yeah, it fits. That's fine. All you've done is put this stoning from the bottom one way up. You're not going to be out to do that when it actually becomes time to set the stone, you're going to be putting the stoning from the top. So it is always safest, especially when it's a stone like this that is even all the way round. It's not as if it's Ah, teardrop or freeform cabbage on. That would have a very clear right way up of the best of war. It is always best to double check both ways so that you know, for absolute certainty that your stole fits in both ways. round. Andi, it's not You're not gonna come on stuck basically, times gets time to set it. So by the way, I said that this is a perfect fit or the way round because of stone comes out nicely. You don't have to force the vessel over the top. But if as you looked down, if you could see any gap between the stone and the wall, if it was actually been big enough to be visible, then the war would actually be a little bit too big. So you don't want it to big because then it could be difficult to keep the stone in setting securely when you come to set it. So I'm gonna make this, uh, the right height. So we're going to do something sing before I'm going to keep pulling this back on. Keep turning it round each time you'll probably see the silver building up on the file. It's important to keep your files clean, by the way, so the teeth could get to clocked up sometimes. Just tap that, apparently on the side of the bench, you can see is that so a lot of the loose silver dust has fallen into the eight from that's underneath my bench. If it becomes more cropped up than you can get, y brushes gently cleaned the files as well, right? So there's good chick, the height again, it's important to keep checking. It has reduced, but it's still a little bit too high. So I'm going to continue on. Oops. Chicken. Still a little way to go now actually got to the stage where, um, if I tip it over slightly what beforehand? The better wall was the same height as the whole of stone, but now we're starting to get some of stone peeking over the top, but it's still a little bit too high, so his feet speak the film up when I finish off the rest. What's stone out? Go and then so the film down again, when it is a perfect fit to show you the perfect fit that looks like a good fit. Now this war is no longer too far up Society of the AM assist, but you might be able to see that the walls off the battle do look a lot thicker. Then, um, they saw statures. Andi, remember I said that some metal gets pushed over one side or another. Sometimes that little builds up so much, sort. If it's a particularly tight little fitting, then the stone actually no longer fits in. So what I do is just user is the whole frown Eagle fun again. Just very gently encourage such off. Sometimes it almost peels off. You can see Actually, this thinks of why thinks the silver there? Have I very fine Such as that she almost peeled off. Do the same. Well, you signed as well. If I can focus, he can see a little bit there. Peel that off. So that just helps to take that off to just make sure that the stone does fit inside will be checked again. Yeah, that looks like a really nice fit. So that is one more thing that I need to do to both of these settings before I prepare the base plate and solder the base plate. And setting together on that is to slightly reduce the amount of metal up at the top. Because even though we have now, but it to the right height for the relative size the stones, you're still trying to push metal into a smaller space So by stealing out the metal at the top by putting a bevel at the top of your vessel, you're helping to reduce the amount of metal. You happen to make sure that the setting is as neat as possible. So I'm going to use the flat side of my needle file. I'm going to take the stones. Ouch and keep him safe. Her books wrong again. Just can't show you with the larger of the two settings because easier for you to see so I'm going to do is hold the fires about 60 degree angle and I just going to foil the top of that war. I'm going to do one section and then show you close up so you can see we're aiming for Okay . I want to focus more civilians moved the camera in. It's so small and so shiny, but I will try my best. All right, this is it. Close as I can get on the phone because it's so small and shiny. Every time I moved the setting, it is going to go out of focus a little bit, but it the camera will catch up quite quickly. You should be under season tool marks at the top of that, setting a little bit more on the the right of the bitter silver that's exposed on the left Andi that those tour marks have tapered the setting, so it's not very far down the setting, but it's enough to thin the top. Um, Sundhage rule is that you reduce the thickness of the wire at the top by no more than there was in the third. So I'm going to continue firing away around that to put of ever all the way around on do the same with the AM assist setting on. Then both of those settings will be ready for the best plate. 10. Stone Set Rings - cutting the discs: If you remember, I'm using two pieces off scraps silver to form the base plates. This one is checkable around. Yes, this one is 10.5, right about 0.5 millimeters thick. This one's right about 0.7 millimeters thick, I say about because they're both pieces of scrap that I sent through my rolling mill to was used to set yourself but to in largest surface area so I can get the best possible use out of each piece of sheet. Now the AM assist ring is going to have a little bit of the metal sticking past the basil wall. And for that reason I'm going to cut the base plate for that one out off 10.7 millimeters thick so that the extras thickness provides a little bit of extra extra strength. The elaborate tight ring. The setting for that. I'm going to do the silver for rush up against the setting so I can show you how to do that . So because none of it is sticking past, there's no potential for little bits that metal to get bent. Then 0.5 will be suitable for that. If it really got points 7.7 be perfectly fine for this, but I've got 0.5 available, so I'm going to reduce the amount of silver that I'm using and use a 0.5. I'm going to be cutting the backing plates that I need out off as the silver using my disc cutter. If you don't have a discuss, er than you can just saw small sections off by hand on def. You have some of the silver seeking out past the backing plate. He doesn't have to be round. It could be a fancy shape, you desire. But because I've got a discounter, they're going to be round. So we make sure that you know how much silver to leave. So you put that setting on that disk cutter. Now, this discussed ER, you might think would produce a disk that would be the perfect size for this setting. However, there is hardly any material left around the edge of setting, um, so it would only take a tiny slip for setting to go to closer maybe evil, slightly over the edge of the disc on for the setting to be spoiled. So it is actually far better to leave yourself a little bit more material as a bit of a safety margin, so I'm going to cut a slightly larger disk for this setting. But I could have I could have quite a bit a silver sticking out of that setting if I wanted to as well. But I do want to keep it quite dainty. It's gonna be stealing at that dainty 1.3 millimeters square wideband. Remember some several little bits sticking out so the smaller dis cutter will do for this one. So do one of each. Andi, mind you, how this discussed works has it beaten up, but it's a nice, good quality. One nice, crisp ages on the disc cutters on the punches on that actually slope slightly that's expensive. Ones of lesser quality ones will be completely flat at the top when we try and push up hold just at the same time. But these ones, they start cutting on one section, and then the cut goes around the circle as more The punch, um, or the cutting surface is cutting edge is pushed to. It's like guys in that one. We got this apart a little bit. Something else that makes this good quality is that the two parts that some silver is sandwiched between sit nice and close of both of those mean that I can get my discussed very close to the edge of the silver, which I like to do, is have the edges sighing views you can see there and just moved there, so likely out of you on that way. I know So making best use of piece of silver punch goes in and then the hammer just hits. Not big whack. You don't need it. Small, small. He's like that, and there's a disc out of the point seven millimeters sheet that the armistice setting is going to go on. So I'm going to do 2nd 1 You can see how close I got to the edge there. There was a time but a silver down there, but not very much. So I'm going to do the next size up after the 0.5 again, make sure that the edge is the silver are just after a few punch goes in. Maybe good. So my next job is the texture the disk of the AL assist will be sitting on, and then soldier settings together 11. Stone Set Rings - soldering the settings: it's time for the next bit of soldering on dive brought both e smoking horse and the M assist stone settings over to the soldier inboxes sort of together. Andi, I've already set the AM assist stone setting up for soldering. I've dated a lot of flux. Andi, I've put three very, very small pieces of medium solder in size setting one to on three. Just out of you. This this I'm gonna try to get the the video camera and a smudge of a vertical looking straight young birds eye view as possible. That one still suddenly out of you personally, I prefer to use a few very race small pieces a soldier for this job rather than one bigger piece. I find it for me. They flow better around the vessel. What I want to happen is for them to flow around the inside the basil and through underneath where the base plate, this Mohammad disk Andi, the better war are sitting together. I'm hoping that when I solder, I'm going to see a nice lying a nice meniscus. Be more scientific name but a nice line of soldier away around the outside. Andi, I've put the solder flat on the base, but up against the wall for of a specific reason. Even though the disk is very small, the battle rule is even smaller. And so the disc isn't she going to take a little bit more heating from a blow torch to get to soldering temperature? That means that if I'm not careful, the better war could reach soldering temperature before the disc. And it would be very easy if I wasn't careful to allow the soldier to run up the wall and not through the joy, not through whether it was two pieces of silver sitting together. If I was to have the soldiers sitting up against the war, that would increase the chance of that happening. So by having the solder sitting flat against the base plates, I'm helping to reduce the chance. It's just going to run up the soldier wall, but I've got it tucked up as close to that join as I possibly can. Now I set this one up so that you could see what I was aiming for, because again, this is very sore. So as I'm doing things, do this, you might not see what Betsy got. What I'm aiming for here. Um, on this disc, I've taken the time to make sure that it is sitting as evenly in middle as I possibly can make it. It doesn't actually look like that from the slight angle of the camera. I'm aware of that. But if I have to just take my word. I have taken the time to make sure it's sitting essentially because I'm going to leave that disc as it is. I might sound the edge a little bit too through the tail to make sure it's really nice and comfy, but often that I'm going to leave it right how it is, However, this one I'm going to file to get rid of the excess. So it is nice and flushed with better more. So this one is not quite so important to keep it. Keep it central. I'm just going to move the brick, ben me carefully across, then move from with this here as well so that she could watch cause I'm getting this one ready. So just your brush off some flux on. Then what? The excess flux from paintbrush The my jaw. My foot. Buffel Oh, Flux. Just out of sight of the camera. I'm just going to put wow to three small bits of solder medium soldier in the middle there . Remember meeting? Meet him. Sold axes hard soldier to soldier, the collar about the war closed. Medium soldiers solved the two together medium soldier to soldier, the joins of the rings on that those easy soldier to solve the setting friend living together. So which one do now is? Put that over the chalk. I find it so much easier to put the flux on the soldier onto the disk and then put the rings that the vessel wall over the top than to try and put the soldier in that very small space. But what I do need to do now it's just used to social pick just to the's across. I'm doing it quite gently because I do want them to sit, um, against the wall. Andi, because this is also small and therefore light. It is quite easy to pushing Piece of solder prints the wall to move the whole thing across . Now, although I don't need this, essentially, I don't want to move that across the known move those two bits a soldier over there as well . So it is worth while doing things gently and taking your time to set things up. So gonna want one too. The three just there. The other thing Very important thing to mention at this point is please make sure you have your basil the right way up. Remember that we've taken the time to reduce the silver at the top of the better war. So you need to make sure that that filed a hairier is definitely talk when you haven't pushed at the bottom. Now it wouldn't be the end of the world. If you put at the bottom, you might might increase the chance of melting the the vessel wall at the bottom because that's where he'll be focusing heat. But it wouldn't be the end of the world. You could still take a small needle file and go back on d file the top here. But for a stone that isn't an even circle like this sit like these two are, then it is especially important because it might be that your vessel is completely different one way up from the other. So do get into the habit, which is checking that your vessel War is up the right way. So I'm just gonna change the angle now so that you get a, um side different view you get of you coming mawr across so that you can hopefully still seen side a little bit. But also see the outside more a bit better. I'm going to be using the small blowtorch offices. This is such a small setting on. Going to do it first is heat up around setting still constantly smoky courts at first and then go back into the end of this setting going to heat up around the setting even though the flux will start to dry as setting up the soldier. And I thought I was talking to you filming. I still want to make sure it is absolutely dry before I take the heat any closer because I want to those sort Italians hopefully to stay where they are. They're taking time in trouble to put them imprecise places. So, once I seen the white, how'd er of the drive flux Andi start diet down for a bit more and then going to start coming closer? We'll start rushing across as well. I don't want heat just on the outside. I want to make sure that with the the middle of the disk is hot as well. But I'm going to try my best not to focus the flame on the basil war too much because obviously I don't want to melt it so around by focusing strongly brush across on. Then, when I don't see, the soldier is starting to melt on Did. You can't see every of the camel, though I am aware it's going to go in and out of you. You can see a piece, the piece of soldier there. So if you can, what shouldn't see what happens to it? You'll see that it starts to take on my site. Cushioned. Affect us. The edges of the soldiers start to mount a little bit, and then it will flow out on bond. It will be drawn around or three of them will be drawn around around. I can see the flux bubbling. A little better, some white powder appearing. How do you consider teacher end here? You know something touching about a little bit of the fiber. It happen every time. It's just so a second round. I'm brushing across trying to get everything at the right temperature. You see, the flux has gone dark and glossy. That's a good sign that we're getting closer soldering temperature. All right, So don't start to run just during using. Hate to turn this around, focusing my flame down that area. Just flame out the way so I could show you foot rule soldier through and you can see my hope A nice lying, well meniscus solder always wear around that disk that that war setting off on the disk it shows you have to see. I hope that the, um so to join on the better war has become more obvious. Don't worry. That's just how the different metals, the fine silver, stony silver and the soldier how they react differently to the heat conduction flame. But that would be picked up very carefully. So I don't squash the, um two more and put in the quench coach for some. This one, you get two chances to see. So exactly same, although that this flux. I'll be very surprised if it's more than just a tiny bit dump, because not only is it being in place for longer than the previous one, but it has been sitting on the fire. Brick on the flame has been that close to it as I've been working. So this should have dried out a bit already. Same as the sole around the outside chemical white pound of sucks. And I've always got my so £7 Justin. Thanks is needed. I see that solder to way to go. We're going to see a life's lying of soldier that great books So slow. Nice. I sold around the outside and also in the middle of swell. It shows up as being a lot brighter. And so you see there on the and if I turn this round, you should be able to see it all the way around to be like a little bit of extra science. It is apparent capillary action that yours, the the soldier around the joint like that. So I'm gonna pop both of thestreet in settings in the pickle to clean them up. Andi, Then I'm going to show you how I'm going to remove the excess silver around the smoky hole sitting 12. Stone Set Rings - filing the settings: now that the settings are nice and clean, There's one more thing that I need to do to the setting for a smoky quartz stone so that there, then both ready to solder onto the rings. Andi, I need to remove the excess solder for around here, said Vince. This is where they become the two stones to become, sir, a bit more different being that that one, it's going to stay with the silver sticking past the wall. Uhm, I'm going to do a little bit of sanding around the edge, This one, though I don't want to see excess sticking out, and that's probably so I could show you how to get rid of it when you gonna be firing it off? If there was more silver than this sticking past the better wall, then I would start to soar it off. So if rather than cutting a small disk out with silver and soldering the setting onto that disk, if I just taken a ah off shaped piece of scrap and social to that, I would then saw maybe a little bit closer then this desk is a little bit closer to the wall because I've got experience doing it, but certainly about that. Maybe about that distance away if you're just getting used to this and then for all the rest. So I've got to the six inch our friend file. You can use six inch file or a needle file for this, Whichever you find more comfortable. That's what I'm going to do. It's stuck sweet, crowned. Now going to have to be careful are doing this. As I get closer, you can see starting to remove some metal already because I don't want to, uh, make the better wall much thinner. Obviously, to get it nice and flush, there will be the tie, a bit of filing on the best of war. But what's I absolutely must not do is file. That's a sight angle, so I start undermining the wall. I don't want to undercut it because that could weaken and destroy the house setting. So we're being careful of farthing to keep the file parallel to the ball. Getting about. It's concentrating other a small section of the moment. We can see how much I've removed already. I'm going to get to the stage where I've got one part one section the war done and show you what that looks like. And then I will speed up the the film. The rest of it show you the end result so OK, really quite close there. So let's keep going now today. Now it's just checking to see because it looks really close now, especially if you look from the top. But I can still catch my thumbnail with a bit of silver there, so I'm going to more. What you'll find is that you are starting, but this is where you then have to slow down for that will be more careful. You do start, see from shine start a file on the wall and this as well. It's going to make that a wider area, So it's more obvious. I have been to move the camera, show you from a different angle. Okay, so that's one section of wall done. So I'm going to stop film now. Bring the camera Sounds different angle. Andi, explain what you're going to be looking at. The camera is now at a lower angle, so hopefully you're going to be able to get a better view off what I've just seen doing the site off the setting that's facing you at the moment. It's aside that I've been filing. If I hold it up when we like that, she can see there's no access material. The bottom is still some excess material at the top. Run sights a little bit, but I still need to fire the way you should be able to see what? God. But Shinya um where I've been filing. So you can see that some that showing the Skoda will need all the way up the wall. Um, not up as far as, um, while I sing to the water. Why? Better off the wall. But that was to make sure that I did go nice and snug. Isom. Full lush shop against the war that I did didn't leave any access silver down the bottom. Um but I also kept the file parallel to the wall. I didn't angle it to undercut it. So as soon as I just started Teoh touch the file. The war that was enough. So what I need to do now is continue taking the file around. So it's gonna continue. You can see it doesn't take too much that some that bit of filing that was maybe six strokes trying its back into both. So you okay five or six strokes has taken not much away already. But once you get get started, then it goes from there quickly to one area. One area donit Henry's around quite quickly. What I am doing is just making sure that there's no material at the bottom for my fingernail to catch on my thumb now to catch on. Once there isn't anything on the bottom are then move around to the next section. So I'm going to keep following all the way around that now and then show you the finished setting. So that is all nicely filed Now all of the access silver around the edge has bean removed. She can see out of the two designs this fun. Who'd the metal left around setting is definitely quicker to do, but this one is still lovely as well. And there are many occasions where you will want to make a basil setting without any silver sticking past it. So it's a very good skill tohave It also teaches you very good control of your your file. Well, that is profile. Um So what? I'm going to do now is just sketch a little bit of Emory Plate, huh? And just make sure that's the wrong to me. Rough edges, because we such a shame after all of this work, if you are injured, that with comfortable re so just sending on if I edge the 45 degree angle really okay just to get that done on, the more so going to file so sand rather just a little bit about your that one as well, just to make sure that the round sharp bits to say uncomfortable, scratchy bits left after I can't disc out. So those are now both ready to solder onto the rings. But this was a preparation on the street to the wings themselves first. 13. Stone Set Rings - finding the solder join: just a very quick section of the class here to show you a trick that will help the next section of the fast. It will be easier in the next section. We're going to need to be able to see where the soldier joins on the rings are. But if you have done your your well on dure, soldering is good and you're tidying up the soldier enjoying is even better. Then it might be rather difficult to see whether somebody join actually is. So what I'm showing you here is that's just by heating up the ring very gently. Justin. She had a hint off ox ization appearing. You can see where the soldier joint is it suddenly appears again. And that's because the area which you have filed and sanded around the soldier join now has a higher copper content than everywhere else. Andi, as you can see quite often the soldier joy itself, shows up brighter inside that oxidation. Because solder doesn't have a copper, it therefore it reacts differently to the flame. So if you can't see where your soul joining us, use this trick, I feel make the next section of the class a lot easier. 14. Stone Set Rings - preparing the rings 2: before I can solder the settings onto the rings. I need to do everything I can to make sure that soldier joints are strong as possible, because I'm going to be pushing a lot of pressure on them when I set of stones when I have the soldier. So the stone setting sold it on top of the ring like so something's going to go across the back of the stones setting are then going to be putting a lot of pressure on the site of the setting with the better push on with the banish er in order to set this stone. Andi, I don't want to have a week soldier doing That means that this twisted off pushed off on the setting broken because once this stone has been put in, he going to quickly reach a point at which it's very, very difficult to get the stone back out again to do any soldier repairs. So if I show you with this ring, first of all, of course, remember, just found the soldier joint. Remember? I said that we're going to need to find out what So joint isn't about to see why. If I show this monks is bigger and it's more obvious with around wire. If I hold the setting on top of the ring as it would be soldiers onto the soldier joint, you know, to see I'm trying to soldiers something rounded onto something flat, which means that the soldier join isn't very wide and therefore isn't going to be very strong. However, on this one, I find the soldier join. There we go. Hopefully should be able to see a difference between I've texted here and there's a flat section where I've filed. So I found out where the soul Joy waas on this ring. I held the stone sitting up against it like so use a Sharpie to put too little marks showing where will be essentially where I wanted to stone to go on the ring. And then I have spiraled on the outside the ring between those two marks so that there was a wider flat area that can then go flat on the back of stone setting. So that means that that is going to be a much stronger, more so Here, setting far better for more professional piece of jewelry was also making sure that when I put the pressure on setting to set stone. It is going to be nice and stop. It's going to stay together. So I'm going to put that 1 to 1 side. That's the setting for the AM a fist and show you how to do this for with smoke court setting. So everybody found out whether Soldier Joint is using the trick in the last section of the class. Andi, I'm gonna do we gonna work on the Yes, We had to put the marks on there just holding that ring up against the back of the setting . Does it need to be exactly where it's going to go hold you to cross like this? It's easier. What I'm doing is just marking a decent wits on the back. I just across the stone just to make sure I'm not marking any further than three. The diameter off the stone is setting because I can go to one side now can the pendant on doesn't drive dry off. Andi going to hold the ring much like I holder Alex off bangle wire or aside holding the wife the basil settings theon of the class. Some hold it on the bench Paige with the parts I want to file pain Just off the edge of the bench. Paige lined up so that as I file with the flat side off the half round file, as I hope that palette was Teoh side of bench Paige, everything's lined up so that I can then file a nice puts my flat area at the right, wrangled. You see, I hope that was around the light. There's already a flat area appearing. I need to make sure that so little bit wider, so back in place and keep finding. But okay, that's what it takes very much a tool. Go a little bit white if you wanted to, but that is enough off an area so that that is now soldiered on. Actually, I'm going to go a little bit wider. Reduce some of this sickness here little bit wider so that the ring doesn't. The setting doesn't sit quite so proud of the ring with your finger, so it's not the camera with the fire. That's better help you with that. So those are now ready. So soldier together 15. Stone Set Rings - soldering the settings 2: set up the AM assist ring ready to soldier together. Andi. Before I started setting everything up, I drew a sharp you master across, um, by justify I on the back off each setting because it does help with setting the everything up to make sure that the ring Shankar's square and even across the back of the setting. And as I set everything up, I've looked from every angles of it that way and from the front as well. It's a bird's eye view from the top. It really is worth taking the time to set everything up properly, because once you've done a nice, secure soldier join, it is really difficult to take apart and to move everything against. That's worth definitely taking your time at this stage. Now I set it up with a pair off reverse action tweezers, says another Pat. They're not really like these because you have to push them to open them. So eso they automatically stay close when you're not pushing them, which means that you can just set something up. Onda use applies jesu tweezers. Just get everything sitting nicely, so sit down here. You might be able to see, though that there is a penny for points out that you might have noticed that there a penny propping one side tweeters up because quite often these trees do have a little bit with twists to them. If you get this pair just sitting downwards, then sitting on the block quite so then that put something in it. It would actually lean over, um, towards the back a little bit. So by pretty something underneath, twists it over a bit and gets everything sitting nicely. So I've taken the trouble to set that up, taking the time to do it, set it up properly. So now bring the flux over. I was going to put a small amount of flux. Both sides should status quite a bit force I needs, and brushing the excess flux off that paintbrush. Assert its a bit drier. Pick up some of what I don't need from here toward back up again. We go. That's better. Andi. I'm going to use easy soldier. Let's remember that the last soldier that I used with medium soldier to soldier the ring together and also to soldier the best of setting on, um, on two disk, so that leaves me easy solder to put everything together. I just put one piece of soldier the back there on another one. Just there. Seem up. You'd see that the pen mark is covered up. Um, my piece of soldier need a site. They are quite small. Piece of soldier member. I send my soldier out by state with Rolling Mill. If you can't do that, can hammer the end of it. Thin it out too. Then cut it into pieces. I've put, um, flat on the base plate. I've found that if I prop them up against the re shank, think it. They get absorbed into the ring shank rather than into the join between the two. So I found this. This works best for me. Some still use the small blowtorch. But as usual, I'm going to he said quite slowly across the front here so that the flux tries are quite slowly. If I striked off quickly, will bubble up quite quickly on those Palin's will be very likely to jump off. I'd like him to stay. We're taking the trouble to put them. I'm also going to have to put some heat into the tweezers. They are because they're holding across the ring shank. They are going to draw heat away from the silver. They are a heat sink, so to help three things up to help, everything gets the right temperature. I'm going to put some heat into the tweezers on, then go around the ring shank towards the end. I'm then going to focus more on the joining on both sides to help soldier to melt and flow out across all the length that those two pieces silver caution common on both sides and through the soldier join as well. So it for such a soul getting flux trial, even though going slowly, that little piece of the back move. So talk show off moved back to. I wanted to say that we can carry him still see that bubbling away but still being quite gentle with the heat. Once I see the white powder that is the soldier, right, that's fine. You can actually see it lifted. The piece sold rock a little bit as it dies back down again. The soldier nine times out of 10 four back to him where we wanted to be. It's being lifted up quite gently, but that puts some more heat. There's traces. Apply a welder. The main shank claim is that she come. Quite Hello. So turn it off. I should really have checked that. It was had enough fuel. It was It was nice big playing force for cat starting this. But least it does show you that you can stop, we fuel and then carry on about my duty to preserve a bit more heating here will have cooled down. Also, actually. See that term. The chances are life. I don't say it all. That's better. It's a bit more heat back in those tweezers, the flux starting to get dark and glossy, which is a really good indicator that it is so close. Soldering temperature. So, uh, stick actually move it away. So I'm just using So push it back into place. I want that specter. Okay, So as of now, flow nicely on both sides. I can see a line soldier on both sides of haste, health and safety tip for you. This is very hot. Even if hard time pick it up by the wood because you got the metal rivets coming through. It would still be quite hawks. I put so much heat in here. So using enough the power tweezers have another pair handy so that you can pick it up. Good sign. I can pick it up. I can bang it on the soldier. Break on data sorted. So that's all together. So what I need to do now is put all of this tweeted and all in the quench pot, my steps out of the way. So it was enough room in the crunch, so we can all go in. And there we go. See First ring soldier together. So I'm going to do the same with the smoky courts ring Quench that put in both in the pickle and then going to polish both of them. It is always best, I think, to polish without the stones being in place. There are some stones that are strong enough to go in a tumbler. Andi, I would talk to you a bit more about that at the very end of the class. However, I prefer to play safe wherever possible and to tumble jury without the stones in place. So that's part you will see is thes Ringel nicely polished up on DWI. Were set stones in them 16. Stone Set Rings - setting the stones: rings have come out of the tumbler, beautifully polished. So now it's time to set of stones. Onda very put the appetite and it's setting. I put the amethyst in its setting in the moment we want to talk to you about two of the tools that were going to be using. This is my ring. Clamp such choices. I haven't shown you classes so far on there were two main types of ring clamps that you could buy, but they both hold the rings are other pieces that you might want to work on as well, sometimes useful for holding peace, small sheets that she want to file. But they all have a mechanism for tightening the top around. Whatever it is you want holding place off the ring. In this case, this one has got a wing nut. So as you loosen away, not the it moves, the space here moves further apart. The wingnuts has got a eso. The boat has got a spring on it, putting us back in place. I've put the ring in so that the setting is sitting nice and flush and firm and level against the top so that this is so that when I start putting pressure with the better push on which that Spain was a bit more moments. Why puts up putting pressure on the city with the basil pusher are not twisting the setting , not risking that twisting on top off the the ring shine expressions. This is a relatively thin ring shank here. It's just helping everything to stay nice and strong while some setting and absorbing some of the pressures I will put on the setting. Another type off ring cramp has a pivot in the middle Onda the opening at the bottom. You can put a wooden wedge in there, and as that which goes in it, forces this and open their send clothes and forts and holtz everything firmly. I don't particularly like those once I find that eventually the the wooden wedge here becomes loose on for tout, and you have to keep bringing back in so much prefer these. Sometimes people adopt their, um, bench pike to use the ring cramps. They might have a shape carved formed into site here that they can push the rain clamp up against so that they comply brace it up without its slipping. This also shaped here so it can fit into a holding tour that you can put on the side there . But I find that there was getting in the way in the type of work that I I tend to do so do so much soaring and filing. So what? I Attention. Just fold it. Either my hand or it's something sold or brace it up against the corner of the bench. Pick there. So that's the ring Klum that there's just fall off. Eso want to talk to you about the visible pusher. Now the vessel pusher is a watch, a steel square water still being pushed into a wooden handle. Andi. Quite simply, it's job is to push personal pushups. That's to push the basil up against the stone rock digital. That stone often isn't in it setting, but quick talk to you about how they arrive from the suppliers. Most of arrive with quite sharp square edges of the top here that have to be softened a bit little bit, perhaps, with the type of stone that she's shopping Isis scissors on or untold file. Not Love You. Nice jewelry files was an old file and then some Emery paper as well, just to make sure there's ages a cushioned. Because if you leave a sharp, they will then put marks on to the silver basil. Is that so much softer danger? You might have difficulty getting those marks out. So when you get one of these arriving, do take the time to, um, pair the edges. And I just say that will be a a shorter video that I will feel in the near future. So, um, I have actually really started setting. There's appetite. I can hope that you can see my stuff check. It's in focus. Go. I hope that you can see that the edges have bean bean squared off. It's more square than round at the moment. This setting, because I have pushed in with e better pusher on north south east west. You do not want to start pushing in one place on, then push A with the way round because remember, I said that you were pushing the silver into a smaller area. If you were to start in one place and go all the way around, by the time you got around here, there would be bunching up of the silver it would look very untidy. So to try and reduce that affect my subject from happening need to make sure that you're constantly crisscrossing the stone is also helps stone to sit evenly inside the setting that well. So what I've done is the north, south, east west on a next. Only to do with this stone is go because the points in between constantly criss crossing back over stone as it is a moment. This stone is not going to come out moment. But there's a little bit of a wiggle still in it because it's not set properly on that which eventually, I mean, it was loosened in the setting and come out now and put the am assis in. There you go, Andi. Just me noisy vehicle outside my window. BP noticed like that. So I'm going to do is I got in the habit of never approaching the setting like that, never risking scraping across the silver there because you could put marks and it even if you have softened the edges of this. So what? I always said it. Place it. I'm gonna put my some across the chops status toe, hold everything into snugly and it's a very firm but gentle movement pushing in and then walking up a little bit, some pushing in to push the whole wall up against the stone. But then looking up to start getting that wall pushed and over the setting, and you can see that's made a difference already. Now watch my diet again your size and trying whole sitting around office. You don't want to change it from there. Wouldn't get the same strength. But watch, um, the the broad to disappearing out from under my fingernails. Getting indicated how firm and heart I am pushing us up and walking it over. So it is a very, very firm but slow and controlled movement. So again, Santa Poco for So I'm trying to hold us. I can do the job properly, but also hold it so you can see what I'm doing. Se. I'm looking over. So does he still movement lost as much as I waas? And again that's squared off a bit the same way that the appetite for being hot the only thing that is, um, not so nice. Maybe about these ring camps is at this six out of Betsy watcher in some occasions he sits kind of scraping across your hand, so I have to get used to How you going to hold everything. So now I'm going to go on those points in between so up. And I have, uh, around the other side. No, I have, uh They can see some wrinkles, but it's getting a lot tighter in that setting. Now it's a case off pushing in anywhere that's still no nice and snug up. Get up against stone But making sure that you are always crisscrossing over the stone going back and forth over the stone, you can see it's already getting no nature. That stone is hardly moving now were doing I was looking for hearts it Oh, not neat Up against the stone. I'm pushing those in. I, um, at this stage by Shea from this angle maybe with my hand a little bit further away from the best push up. I am now going over quite an angle on the top of the wall, says I'm pushing the vessel almost down on just the same, but should be out to see a little bit of a gap. But my finger behind it, the better pusher is never actually touching the stone. I'm able to do that because I am keeping the movement very controlled. So that was done. No need to put that appetite, bring back in the camp and finish pushing the wall in on that setting. I'll show you the last few pushes on that one from a different views. I'm aware that my fingers would have been unavoidably bean in the way, sometimes on the very small mammoth setting. So this setting is almost done. Us looking at the blue as they really flashes. There's air coming up in in that that Labrador Stone. They really are beautiful, I said. This setting is almost done. The stone So a little bit of movement in it. I think I can get that wall in a little bit closer and push it down on top of the stone a little bit firmer. It well, so this few should give you a better view of both of you into a better push and how I hold everything. Certify Nothing like so. So I started. I should point to remind you that this setting is a little bit taller. So in the Ama's, a setting Andi. It is actually the same same height as the top of the square at the top of the puzzle pusher. So I've actually got around this setting mawr than I have on the AM assist setting. I went round well, crisscrossing back across the stone office. He was I I went back and forth across right at the bottom of the setting first because of the It's the top of the setting that rubs over, pushes over the stone, holds it in place. I need to make sure that the setting is pushed in against the stone all the way down the setting as well. Because if I leave it even a fraction of a millimeter away from the stone further down, that stone is going to stay loose. Is not going to be clumped in tightly. So my first movement to go all the way round was pushing in and rocking up like so. And then, of course, tailoring round doing the same from the other side, East and west is well and then going back and forth focus for you. No back and forth across the stone as well. And then once I did that, I moved the basil pusher further up the stone A went around again, this time pushing over with my best push up further setting. So you should be hard to see that the better wall is now halfway across. The puzzle pushes. So is pushing it further up and further into the same movement very firmly, but slowly with control pushing it up and then over. Show that again machine in it can't stone and I'm looking up. Sercan see top of places where need to be doing a little bit more. What I'm looking forward. That's a angle down obliquely on the stone to see. Were there any areas, whether it's maybe a little bit of shadow, which to me indicates a cylinder a bit of a gap between now in a moment, I'll show you using the burn Isha around the stones and that will help a great deal. But they're still Harper places. Well, I can see Yes, sir, as well. A couple of places. You will find that the more you do this back into focus before I push it over for you, you'll find the more that you do this the fussy he will get with the setting on Duh. I suppose it will get a little bit quicker because you'll know what you're doing on bond. Half of the trick on this is is having the confidence with both the tools and the materials confidence and how hard you're pushing and be able to have the confidence to push that hard without causing damage. Something that's nicely done. But one of the things that I now find having difficulty with us know when to stop. Why push up it and push up between push up bitter. But sometimes it can be a little bit too fussy. But that is now just a couple pushes. So that's now in a lot more tightly. So both of thes Oh, no set. Partly, um, there is a bit of movement still in the Labrador site. Um, but the AM assists is set quite tightly the moment, but I know that on both of them I can still get settings down firmer, tighter and smoother up against stones. Andi, that is where the battle So the bones show comes in. Andi, I've got to different burnishes both the same job. But as you can see, different shapes so so straight nose under bent nose. It is purely down to personal choice, which you use personally. I prefer the shape of the bank knows, because I can hold it like So I have my my finger in the curve. There it is me a bit more control. And also, if I'm doing a setting that, um, I need to be able to rub on the the setting. Um, but it's got backing plates it sticking out. I find that if I use a straight nose long, I'm more likely to come into contact with backing plate. And on the desk, you This case puts and scratches in, I find I never do so if I'm using about those. So what I'm going to do with each of these? I'm going to do it for you on the, uh, there's appetites because it's bigger him. Hold right. See, it said that before. But it's true. And also Serena in the ring clamps that makes it will be easier. So So I'm going to do this. So beautiful maize which approach this, um do so like that. Now, this one you can go with a way around. The silver has been pushed in enough to be able to go with way around. Now I'm gonna do it's just work on one area to time, but I go. So if I show you first of all on the that would here, if you can imagine that this is the silver, so it's going to do this for my finger there and again. It's very firm, but my school movement of up, up against the sofa working my way around the setting a little Mr Time and that will push the silver further down onto the stone. Eso is tightly held, and it'll also started polish up the setting and remove any marks left by the, uh by the What's weird looking for better pusher? That's just the name I'm looking for. So again I put my some on top of the stone. Here we go. I can't focus for you so that I can rest my brother shot until my thoughts are rubbing on top of that rather than resting on top of the stone so it's gonna work from one area time - they should now be able to see shining beautifully in the often sunshine nice, bright, polished rims of silver or I've burnished the stone settings spice up the better walls around those the ab assist on due to the Labrador right on the Labrador site. Or look about beautiful, that chick brew flush in that love died. It's gorgeous. So two lovely rings there that we don't actually do nicely. Um, sitting together one together, the advantage off having, uh, rings like this with a stone setting. Sitting on top of the rings is you can actually wear them as stacking rings because other bones is also not too thick will fit underneath them. Um, but those are now done and ready to wear. 17. Stone Set Rings - bonus: enlarging bezels: in this bonus section of the class. I want to show you how easy it is to slightly in large a basil if it doesn't quite fit your stone. So although in this rings class the vessels were fitted perfectly, I believe me, that does not always happen. Um, this is a little bonus from a separate pendant class where the basil has turned out a little bit too snug. I've deliberately made it to snow so that I can show you how to enlarge it easily to fit thes. I tend to hold across the stones to get the stone in one end, and I tend to do it with the stone flat, um, Royals and try and put a stone in like that. I find it better that way. So I'm going to do because this is so soft, I can then just use my fingers to push that round. He's see how easily is getting in shape already. Andi? Uh, a tiny bit too tight. It's not fitting right at the end. You see that title bits stolen sticking out there. It's not fitting in. So do it now. It gives me opportunity to show you how easy. It is to stretch it out a bit on sleep with stone somewhere very safe after the way from the Tools. Andi Steel Bench book. Andi. A steel rod that is actually from the set that I used to wrap wire around four coils. It's my first part first stage on making jump rings and chains, so your C they set later on in the one the next sections. In the class issue, you have to make the chain for this necklace or something to do in this case is used. The's too hard surfaces to roll out the vessel. So I suppose it's a bit like rolling pastry or these same actions as a rolling mill. So you just you don't need something like this. Even a metal knitting needle will do the job. Justus. Well, so just making sure I know where the soldier joint is and it's there because, well, unrolling, I'm going to try to avoid the soldier joint because that is, ah, harder metal. And it won't reach react in the same way as thief. Fine. Silver wrote Rollout as nicely. So what we're going to do First, we need to find the right amount of pressure to do. See, not just sliding across Turcotte is the road, um, in between, through the vessel lined up so that the stripper puzzle is, uh, light angles to the road. I'm just going to roll across when counting, As I do this, well, sets to hurry. I just can't do that for the moment, because it was it wasn't far off. That wasn't far fitting, so I don't want to stretch this out to be too big. But what I do want to do is have just done is take the puzzle off, turn it around and put it back in again and do squad counting the same Number one Teoh looks three. Here we go. So it is the same number either side because my hands are more every nobody's symmetrical know that puts the same one to pressure month side. The body is the other. So my house is going to be putting uneven pressure on. What I didn't want to do is end up stretching the top more than the bottom, putting a tape on the vessel. So by swapping the battle round and rolling the same amount out again, I'm making the role as even as possible. So I don't want that on top of steel. My nice stones stealing get it's going to see who. So that is actually perfect. Sometimes need a little bit more rolling than that on Don't be discouraged. If yours needs a lot more rolling, you will get there. Sometimes I have had to roll out. A fair bit will help. Students were letter a fair bit of the stone, but that will do it. What you're aiming for is for your stone to fit in there. Andi. It's being Isis. Snuck so it. So it doesn't ford out, but fees be able to push backwards and forwards a little bit. You want a little bit of a movement in there? Because, um, when you put soldier in place, that's going to be, um, Are you soldier? That could be a hairline with the soldier all the way rather inside. Andi. If you have this so tight this sage that you can't move the stone in and out a little bit, then it's definitely going to be too tight. By the time that's Ah, Tibet's soldier has taken up a type of space inside, so that's is now fitting. So there you go. If your business has turned out a little bit too stuck, that's an easy way to enlarge it. 18. Stone Set Rings - final thoughts: So if you be following for the class, you should by now have one or even better, to beautiful new rings. They can, as you see, go fantastically as set statue rings, perhaps with some simple hammered rings and playing buns in between. Onda reason that they can do so is setting Sit, proud of the ring shank. It's not set into it, so other rings can sit nicely underneath, setting as well. I did want to mention to you why I don't polish stones. I always prefer, if I can, to push the settings separately and then at the sons might a very end. Different stones have different hardness is on, and they are categorized on the most scale, which goes from 1 to 10 10 being the hardest on the hardest stone hardest substance and man is diamond. Labrador Site has a score of six on the scale and AM assist score of seven, so they are quite hard stones. I never tubal polish anything below about five final half five Ondas etcetera ever possible . I don't trouble push any stone too tall. That's because I can never be certain that there aren't imperfections in stones. These are after all, a natural substance. So it's a personal choice I wear for possible don't tumble stones. I'm really looking forward to seeing what brings you make on see what stone you choose. Whether you choose to keep quite small and dainty as I have already. You make beautiful statement rings. If you have any questions, please do else thumb. On day I will get back to assume as possible. But for now, thank you for watching.