How to make a patchwork quilt using clothing (memory quilt). | Lucy Ryan | Skillshare

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How to make a patchwork quilt using clothing (memory quilt).

teacher avatar Lucy Ryan

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

8 Lessons (1h 16m)
    • 1. Intro

    • 2. Lesson 1: Tools & Equipment

    • 3. Lesson 2: Preparing & Selecting Your Fabrics

    • 4. Lesson 3: Designing & Organising Your Quilt

    • 5. Lesson 4: Piecing & Sewing Together

    • 6. Lesson 5: Adding Borders (Optional)

    • 7. Lesson 6: Layering & Basting

    • 8. Lesson 7: Making and Adding Binding To Finish

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About This Class

Have you ever wondered what to do with those bags of clothes or fabrics too 'precious' to part with or maybe wondered about making something with them but not sure what?

In these seven, easy-to-follow classes for beginners to advanced sewers, you will be guided step by step in transforming a collection of old clothing into a unique and personal patchwork quilt.

Lucy is a quilt maker, designer and teacher and in these classes you will work right alongside her every step of the way and be taught:

  • What tools and equipment you will need (and easy, just as good alternatives if you don’t have the specialist stuff).
  • How to select your clothing, pick out details, motifs, favourite patterns/colours and ‘special’ bits to use in your patchwork. (What works well and what doesn’t)
  • Cutting your clothes up to use- I will be beside you when you cut into those special garments (it will be ok, this is the hardest bit!) showing you how, the best and safest way to do it. 
  • Teach you how to design and plan your quilt; balancing your colours, fabrics and details.
  • Sewing your patches together piece by piece and how to add a border if you want one. (It’s getting exciting now...) 
  • You will learn how to layer, baste, quilt and bind your quilt to finish.

When you have finished this class you will have created a beautiful keepsake patchwork quilt to treasure for years to come.

Meet Your Teacher

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Lucy Ryan


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1. Intro: Have you ever wondered what to do with all of those clothes he might have around the house. Do you know long wear the clothes but the patterns of the fabric of just too nice to throw away. Have you any clothes that you save for my girl children were little that were just too precious to throw it out somehow that might be in a bag, there might be in the Arctic. My name is Lucy Ryan. I'm a teacher, I'm a quilt maker and I'm a designer and worked in the textile industry for over 20 years. In the next seven lessons, the upper affects both beginners and that France psoas. And I'm going to be showing you step-by-step how to transform your clothes from pile like this into a patchwork quilt like this. Throughout the course in the Seven Easy lesson, I'm going to be talking you through it step-by-step. So the first one, we're going to talk about tools and equipment. You need scissors and up and with time, but all the other bits and bobs that you can need to create your patchwork quilt. And I'm also going to teach you how to select your clothes. So you might have some really tricky Cloud. This will also include closed like this. They're super small, also super stretchy. I'll also be teaching you how to work clothes that are quite an unusual shape like this, like that hat. I'm also going to show you how to cook your close up. And this can be really, really hard for some people, particularly if they're special clothes or their baby clothes and they've got a lot of memories. We can do this together. I'm going to guide you through it. And of course I'll take you through step-by-step at the making process. So I'm going to show you how to cook you close all sugar noted. Show you how to piece them, how to sew the pieces together. And I'm going to show you how to our borders if you'd like a barge or I mean patchwork quilt. I'm gonna show you how to quilt and Cosmos show you how to bind it to finish. 2. Lesson 1: Tools & Equipment: Sn1, tools, equipment. What do you need first things first, you need some old clothes or some fabrics to use. I'm going to lose in small things at my daughter's. From when she was quite small targets with tiny baby grows hair. Well, it'll hat was entirely genes. It doesn't matter whether you use baby clothes or adult close, but you need clouds if you can give them a quick wash to fresh in the book and give them oppressor. They're all nice and clean and ready to go. That would be brilliant if you have got anything stretching. So if any of your clothes are all T-shirts, you're going to need to buy some interfacing. And there's a medium to light weight. It's readily available. All good fabric shops you can buy on the Internet as well. But have some ready tubed on your stretchy fabrics. You don't need to back everything in it that just you stretchy things. It's a really good thing to bind. So cool that I have here measure throughout foot 34 inches square and it's got small two inch border around the outside. You don't have to put a border on. But if you're buying, you're backing fabric, if you're going out to the Puppet shop to buy or back in our bag about a meter and a half. You may of course want to make a much bigger quilts at which I can't show you how to do. What I would say. Is that the size of your quit well, depends on how many colors you've got. So if you've only got a small padlock I have you'll need you won't need as much. I would buy a b 2.5. You can of course, use all old sheets or do vague covers. Anything that's cotton and that's woven in that. I mean, it won't stretch, it's not too thick and will be absolutely perfect for your backend. So you will need some backing fabric for your binding and the border. Next thing you're going to need is some batting, awesome watering fabric to go in-between your layers. It's going to go, you don't have your patchwork layer on top. I'll be back in on the bottom and in between the house and batting. This is my here, I like to use a 100 percent cotton batting is readily available on the internet. You can of course, buy it for mobile fabric shops as well. You will need the amount of this other per the size of your quilt, which I'll come to look a bit later. Let's say for mine here, I used a meter as an alternative to the batting, which can be expensive. And you could use an old woolen blanket. You could use a layer of fleece, just something to go in between the two layers, keep it warm and to give it their way would be great. Just be mindful if using a domestic machine like this, like I will be soon that don't choose anything too heavy or it might struggle to go through. But generally a bit fleece or something like this will work just perfect. If you have such a thing as a quilting ruler. And that would be really, really brilliant hues. They come in all different shapes and sizes. I've got, and they're all different makes as well. It doesn't really matter. You'll notice you've got filtering because it'll have a big thick edge on it like this make generally made of plastic. And it'll be in inches. If you have a quilting ruler, a relatively good job, Really good and be necessarily equal to the mat. Don't use these without the map that comes a threesome because you'll damage any surface that you work on, unblock the blade as well. So if you've got those, that be fantastic and it would save you quite a lot of time. And it also helps get really accurate finish on your work. If you haven't, don't punny, still create. Patchwork quilt without all that equipment, which can be expensive. Some times 24 you need to do is you'll need a piece of cardboard. You can see here I've got a buck the cereal packet, and using a pencil and a standard ruler and measure out a 6.5 inch square. Or if you're doing it smaller or bigger, the standard square that you want to use and just ensure that your templates where your carpet square. Is. It his swear, I would use a book and just pop it on and just make sure that it is really square. Because if it's not square, that we hold patchwork won't be sclera, which will give you a headache further down the road. And so you'll need to attend to that pen and pencil. If you are using a template, a carbon template, you will need some scissors to cut your stamp out and some scissors to cut your fabric out. And I generally two pairs of scissors are the bigger power here which are used for the fabric. And I have a smaller PR here, which are really useful in spreads. And when I'm saying, and don't want to clog these great big things around. So I don't have to, but one is perfectly fine, just make sure that they're sharp. And that's all you need to clean and they'll sharp and they'll put fabrics, have a practice cookbook scrap fabric and just check that it gives a nice clean line. The other thing that you need to, you'll need some thread for doing sewing our patchwork squares together. You will need Eddie, it doesn't really matter. If you're sewing pale of fabrics together, I would use painless read like a white or a queen. And likewise, if you say navies and blacks and dark fabrics together, I will choose Navy or a black to sew it together. And when whatever fabric you decide for your backing, I would recommend that you got a like for like threads issue. I will use a gray back in. So this blue gray thread is perfect for that. The other thing I need is you'll need a little bit masking tape. Masking tape, just not unsanitary. It will do as well to have that to handle bit later on. And chins, you'll need some pin. So if you can get your hands on some quilting pins, which look very much like safety pins. That would be great. The difference is, is that quilt and pins have a slight angle on the bottom bar. And that's so when we put them into our fabric that come out again and we can pin them ready for it for basting and quilting our work for again, that's further down that further down cause a quilter pins gray, if not, say Japan to just discard or if you haven't, either of those. If you've got a hand sewing needle and thread, that will work too, and you can just base your fabric used in that, the needle and thread. So that works as well. So don't feel like you have to rush out and buy those. If you've got 12, you will need a couple of pins and I say backup all you'll need probably about five or six. I've got some quilting. Just standard. They are longer pins hair, but normal, standard household pendants or do the job as well. So just have a few of those in a little pop to hand as well. Lastly, you can need an item. Unfortunately, whether you're an INO or not, you will need an iron 2 to get a really nice finish on your patchwork. So have an ion to handle Brahman off a friend. If you haven't got one, you can't see these. These are seen rollers to roll. It seems flat. These are quite useful. Especially if you haven't gone I in time, but you could do with certainly assume or like this or a normal standard household iron task quad. We're going to practice using our tools, equipment, and we're going to practice by cutting a 6.5 inch patchwork square. I've got a piece of cotton here. I would recommend that you use cotton or a woven fabric like a pillowcase or a piece of bed linen, old Bennett bed linen. Obviously. If you've got rotary cutter quilting ruler, you're going to place it on. You gotta be mindful that 6.5 inches. So we're going to go along today as the six and there's the extra half. And they count down to 6.56 there. So making sure that our confetti on my fabric notice how I'm sort of getting it fairly well. So of ints, the common aside. So I'm going to be able to have the spikes notice square out there. Don't forget we're going to maximize role close enough fabrics that we use it. So I've got my quilting ruler positioned. I'm going to use my right a 100 summaries my left hand to hold the quilting ruler fairly steady, and I'll use my right hand and the right Ricotta to make a coat. I'm pressing down as I could. I'm also keeping and resting my rhetoric could say, on this edge of the rim, light strikes edge there. So again, I'm going to get down 6.5. I'm going to make sure that 6.5 line is on the line I've just cut, which I know is straight. And critique should the sides are, this does take a bit of practice. So if you are new to patchwork, do just take time, just relax, Just get old fabric and just practice could take and getting those straight lines. Some of you may have a cutting mat that has interest on it. Unfortunately, I made a poor purchase few years ago, a mind centimeter. So it's not an awful lot of good. But it doesn't able me to use the lines, but for straightness and aligning things. There we go. We have a 6.5 inch square That's really nicely caught. Okay, so those of you without a quilting ruler, and I hope by now you've put yourself a 6.5 inch square cardboard template. You're going to position that on your fabric. You're going to use a pen or pencil. You can use a fabric pendant did this also makes out there that do disappear when the Press the heat on them. This isn't a is just the standard by where it just works just fine. Glow orange slash. And now you're just going to trace where I was. This is, is we don't you've got a 6.5 inch squared using del Cabo template. And this I would recommend hamburger with bags of days at whichever one you have to hand practice on OLED on old fabric, I wouldn't close, but this point until you've watched Lesson 2, which we're going to map. Okay, So just to clarify and hey, raise your complete list of everything you are going to need to make your patchwork quilt from our Klaus. Please feel free to stop and pause this video or screenshotted. Write notes wherever they says All the all going today. 3. Lesson 2: Preparing & Selecting Your Fabrics: Hi, this is lesson 2. This lesson is going to be about selecting and preparing your clouds that you've got ready to cook down to going up patchwork quilt. First things first. Take time for you to have a look and see what you've got, what close you've got. Have a look at the clothes and see you through any logos or motifs or favorite part on those clothes that you really want to capture within your patches on your quote. So I've got a couple of examples here. So this is a big growth. This is a really lovely detail here. And he may decide that you want to capture that in a patch to our put that on one side. Maybe you should go adult close, such as shirt like this. There's a chest pocket here. So you may want to capture that within one of your patches. Alternatively, you might have something like this that has a really awful yes logo on it. Again, we're going to capture that. We can do that. If you have clothes that don't have obvious logos or motifs on them, you can still use them. It doesn't have to have motifs, but if the raw motifs, you want to use them by all means put those out and make those a feature. He details are small. If you make that baby close a patchy potentially you don't want to put a little detail within a big patch. You can put your patches down. And again, if you have a bigger logo that wouldn't fit onto a 6.5 inch square. You can group them together. You'll see on the screen now that you can see different ways in which you can combine your patches. So scarce, reclose, sought out, put them in a pile. Big patches look Apaches plane patches. Now you've identified the details. How do you cut into them? This is convey if you've not done it before, really, really tricky. Um, it's not tricky in a, in a cutting sense. It's just tricky in a sentimental value sense, but it's going to be okay. You can do this, follow these few stacks, and you can do this. I'm gonna demonstrate your first with this adult shirt and just a heads up if you're cutting into clothes generally or most of the time, the backs of the clothes, if you're looking for a plane patch, a generally much cleaner and better condition than the fruits of plays. And however, obviously they don't have logos among teams generally on the back. So if you want the motifs and the little pictures on the front, then it takes it from if you just want to play pump, it goes to the back. I'm going do is I'm going to roughly position my template on here. Well, I'm not going to do is get my pen and draw around it. What I would recommend that you do every time if I was just gonna say one, patch out this shirt, I was put into the shirt. And I would just put a patch out that was much bigger than the actual patch that I need. Okay. The reason for doing this, just take that shirt out the way. We got a gift is a good Press. Put that on here and then I will draw around it with my pen. And if I wasn't using the template method, if I have my quilting ruler. What my quilting ruler on, and I would cut my square out of here as a demonstration on the last lesson. Okay? So that's if you've got woven fabrics, you should go smaller fabrics, particularly those who are children or babies, they can quite often be stretching, okay? This is, if you've got something that's stretching, it's really easy to tell if it's stretching which you can stretch it. And this is children tissue here. And I want to use this motif from the middle. So what you're gonna do, please, please, please, please, please don't come in with your scissors and cut around this logo Academy, lots of space around it. So what I'm gonna do is I'm going to cut up the side of my tee shirt. They've not taken not worrying too much about how scrappy marketing is, and just leave with a good distance around the outside of the area that I want to be on the patch. Ok. So I'm going to put that to one side. And there I've got here, therefore, toxic cloud. The fabric of the first one is the hardest today, especially with their precious players or the clothes from the children. Once you're done one or two, you'll get into a habit of it as long as you cooked a bigger distance around you patch. Okay, next, I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get my interfacing and I'm going to use the iron to apply a piece of interfacing on the back. And again, it's going to be bigger than the actual motif that I want to cut out again. So I've just interfaced the back of the patch of just cutout, as she can see here. And you'll see that the interfacing is quite a bit bigger than the patch them Linda could tell it's really important that you keep it bigger. This will ensure a really clean, crisp finish on each of the patchwork squared. And it will make selling them together so much easier. And it will also make the finished parents of your, your patchwork quilt so much more professional than not interfacing it really is worth the time and the effort. But remember, could a good distance around the motif or the area that you want to cut out. So I'm now going to demonstrate I know that that patch fully covers the area that I'm going to cut out. I'm going to turn it round on today correct side. And I'm going to use my my quilting ruler and my rotary cutter to cut out. I know I'm putting into 6.5 inches, which there were my fingers are. So I'm going to roughly position that the word love as it is for the sample in the middle. And then use my cursor, the cursor to carefully cut my hair out. I am going to, I'm not going to get all in on this patch. Sometimes you may have to crop one of your motifs down. And that's fine. That's absolutely fine. I just want to get this word love in. So I'm not bother too much about missing the enzyme off. Okay. Again, if you use in the template method with your square of cardboard, you were just this stage, have drawn around the template onto the fabric with your pen and then cut out with the orthosis. It's just the exactly the same except this gets a little bit quicker. And there we have it. We have your 6.5 and square patchwork piece ready now to be sewn together. Okay. One other thing I just want to show you before you go and do your own your own sorting of your own fabrics and preparing them for the patchwork quilt. And this one here is some tiny baby trousers. Sometimes you may have things that are really, really small. So there are different ways in which we can work with these. So what I'm gonna do with this is I've just, cuz how a six halfedge patch from some of the fabric that was very plain, that didn't have any details on it. I really like this little detail here at the bottom of the genes. And that's the detail that I want to use. Y I'm going to do, or what thought that would look nice, played out with them. Have a look at the clouds, see what you think it's gonna work really well. I actually think that leg there would look really nice on here like this just show in a section of the leg of the trousers. So all I'm gonna do is I'm going to hit the bottom of the leg off. Okay, This can be quite tricky because the fabrics can be really thick, especially on children's clothing. Okay, so I've just dropped the bottom of the leg off. I've got my patch here and I think that would look nice about there. Okay. And so you can see the detail on the bottom of James, you can all see the fabric of the bottom. What I'm going to do now is find a couple of pins. And I'm just going to leave these pins it in here until I start same Apaches together. I don't, I'm not gonna say my, my my leg to my square. I'm just going to leave it like that. What I'm gonna do before I said them together, ten the patch around and I'm going to trim this they offered just so it's nice and neat. And what a concert them together and know where the edge of my square is. So there we go. That's my patch and that's ready to surveying and a well, when I finished my quilt off and may decide to stitch this leg down to the patch. And I'll show you that later on throughout the course. So there we go. There's another patch ready, ready to use. So popular, just one other thing. And again, not particularly as baby clothes. You may have some really lucky details like these little pockets. I really liked this little pocket here, and I'd like to use that in a small patch. So all I'm going to do is just cooked down. Again. I'm leaving a big distance around the actual patch that I'm going to cut out some just cutting it out quite quickly. Guys are flatten that out. And now going to cook down. Here. We go. That's from side. You'll see here. I've now got this area here. I'm going to use that as going to have a patch on my patchwork quilt that has four smaller squares that all measure 3.5 inches. So I'm, that I'm going to cook down to 3.5 inches and put it together with three of the squares to make the 6.5. Okay, Just to give you a couple of other ideas of ways in which you can create patches optically, if you've got clothes aren't very interested and you want to make them a bit more interesting. And I've caught a patch here, which is, it is actually a 9.5 by 6.5 inch patch. So I'll add a little strip on the end. But the reason I've done this and cook this patch is because I really like these little feet on this baby grow. So what I'm gonna do is I'm actually going to cook those off and I'm going to stitch them onto this patch. So to create a patch to automobiles, just chop the legs off. Abigail, cutting them bigger than I need them again. There we go. So again, I've got I really like these and baby grow feet. I think that a lot of really good navigate with. So I'm going to pin that in place there. And do the same on the other side. Again. And later painting. And exactly the same as the days before with the bottom of those genes will trim the excess off. In this operation. There we go. So I'll trim the excess off of the pins and you're trimming or using a rotary cutter. The exam. Okay. And then we've got another under the patch, There's booties on their way from the bottom of that baby grab. And just finally, you may have a bad girl, I guess I've used baby grows and children's clothes specifically because the car off the lot smaller and a lot trickier somehow to work out how you're going to use them as patches and you close. This is bad, very austere, actually already cooked back out of it. But I really like the buttons down the front and I wanted to include a baby, the baby grow into it. So what can I say? I've just got another plane, 6.5 inch patch. And what I'm gonna do is I'm actually going to cut us. I'm not going to interface this even though it's stretchy. I'm going to cut a 6.5 inch patch from here. And I'm actually going to pin it on the front of here. So I'll show you how to do that now. Okay, So here the patches ready to go and I've got the back pace of 6.5 and scrap the baby grow. And I've just pinned in place, so this patch is now ready to go into my quilt. Your task for this lesson is to go through your clothes that you have that how decide which of them you want to use, or which motifs or which areas you want to use in your quilt. Prepare your fabrics if a stretchy play interfacing to the back of them and cut your squares. Ready to go. See you in lesson three. 4. Lesson 3: Designing & Organising Your Quilt: Welcome to lesson 3. In today's lesson, we're going to be arranging and planning your patchwork pieces, ready to sell them together. So by now you should have got all the pieces out. And what I've done is I've put mine into three different piles. Okay, so I've got one pan here which has got kind of interesting patches. So it's got a pK of boys with their wording on this patch of a patch that's made up of follicle, smaller patches. I've got all those on one pile. I've got another pilot which has bigger patches. So these is six inch by 12 inch patches. In this case, I've got those on one path and I've got another pile which are common fillers pile. So they're all nice fabrics are all taken from the garments that you've used, but they've got an exciting trimmed or details on motifs on them or pockets or anything like that. So the rules for arranging are plenty quilt know, you can do this one of two ways. You can either do it the way that I'm going to show you just a moment or you can use, as you can see on the screen, is a way of just by using a simple pencil, a piece of paper, and planning out what colors are gonna go wherever you've got an colored pencil, crayons or pairs, you can use those. Just make sure rule number one is to make sure that you don't have any sort of if you put two patches that got red on. Okay. So they're not going to be close with I wouldn't put them like this. I'll make sure one patch here. I've read. So space she calls out, make sure that you do. I've only green scatter or audio. Yellows get a lot better if they're all spaced out on a bit. More thoughts about the second law is quite important role. So two rules this lesson. The second rule is start with the big patches, Okay? The patchwork design that we're going to use is 25 pieces of squares, pamphlets. It's five along one edge and five pieces down the other edge. Now if you have big piece like this, which is a piece of 6 by 12, it's really hard to try and squeeze these in once you got yours wanting. So put your big pieces in first plan where they're going to go. Then I'll go to motifs and you're interested in pile and then you should fill his payout, fill in all the gaps. Now, I'm going to plan my quilts. I'm not going to use pen and paper or pen and paper. I'm just gonna do it on this test case so you can see how I got all. As you can see, I've now positioned and placed and arranged my patchwork pieces ready to save. Just a coupe of things to note, you'll notice that it doesn't fall face one way. Okay. I like my patches go different directions that way. I could use my quilt or display in any direction. It looks good. And I really like to shall see her lovely space in that way. There's some broader he's facing that way about bruits facing this way. And I just prefer that you can of course, do yours all in one direction, if you would like that to what you can do, a wall hanging and awesome things that might look better if they were in one direction. But I personally prefer not to. Please also, don't worry if you only have a handful of garments that you're using. You'll see I've got quite a few different clothes here. But you will see that you come take and there's no problem with taking multiple patches from one garment. You can see here these spotty leggings as they once were. I've got 1.522 pieces from those. Just go back to what we said a few minutes ago. Just see how I place the red apart and again of space that the stripes and spots apart. And I've only got two little bits of blue. I've got the bottom of the genes here. Well, three little bits 12, and then the teach-out may shot, they're far apart as well. Hope you'll get some ideas from looking at the things that I've done on this cool. You'll see I've got part of a sun hat here that I've just positioned over, just a normal plane squared. I've used a pocket detail here from a coat and I've got the booties as I, as I showed you earlier. So your task for this lesson is to do this, okay, is to arrange all of your patchwork pieces so you are happy with them that well spaced out. And you really, really pleased with what you've done so far. If you're going to sew them today or the day that you do it, just leave them. Or if you're not if you completely position, but you're not sure whether you can get certain that I will just take a take a quick photo with your phone or camera just to remind you the way in which they're spaced out because there's nothing more annoying than cooler botany can't remember how you had them all. So take up new things arranged and then when he happily take a picture. And then we'll move on to lesson 4, which is starting to say them together, gather. 5. Lesson 4: Piecing & Sewing Together: Hi, welcome to Lesson 4. In this lesson, we're going to start sewing your patchwork pieces to go with this one, you're really starts to come together. You're going to create a bigger piece of patchwork doll. You're gorgeous fabrics. The two ways of doing it. It depends on how big your patches are. So if you're, a patchwork is just made up from squares right there, swamp. We can just sell them into rows and then so the rows together, okay, If you've got bigger patches like I have on this one, this patch here, we're gonna do it slightly differently. So if you are so in squares together, if it's all squares, no big pieces, just all squares. What you're going to do it, You didn't say them together and you're going to leave a quarter inch seam allowance, which I'll come to in just a minute. What you need to do is to put them I was pulled them out as they're going to bay. And that'll put them right sides of the fabric together. And I tend to put a single, you can put as many pins in if you want to. I tend to just put one or two pins in. Sometimes it's a bit chunky the fabric to, and I'll put one on this side. We're going to sell a quarter-inch allowance, same down here, just a straight stitch and we're going to try and move to backstage at the start and the finish. Now stop hostage, He's coming on down. I'm going to show you on that machine in just a minute. When we stitch that one together, I'll put out and then you'll do the same with this one. So you will add the next piece to it and stitch down here and no preannounced section. Next piece, when you've got your five rows in long strips, you'll then paste them to the next room. Okay, it will all make sense a promise. If you've got big pieces like and I have them do it slightly differently. So I'm going to build them up when all do in strip for the domain blocks. So if I just move these ever so slightly, there we go, set of split them up into five different areas or five different smaller blocks. Okay? These three heroes squares. So I'm going to throw Saudis, this one together, a strip and this one scattering strip, and then I'm going to stitch them together. Okay, So if you imagine a role in the strip there, and then we're going to put the right sides together and I will sew them down here. Okay, So when they open up, they will look like this. Put sounds together. This one here is just on exam, but that's okay. We're just going to stitch this one to this same here folder and out, when we've done that one, will then switch this strip to this one. Okay, can you see how we kinda do it? Say look, there's no All could call us, there's no local columns. Nice degree terms is literally off straight lines and same. So this group of six down here, again, this will just be built into strips and three, and then the two strips added together. This one here is two singles graph. We're just going to right sides together. So down here, I'll play out and then we'll stitch that onto the big one like that. And so Donna and a malware out, it will look like bloody swamp. Again, this last one in the corner. If we just break it down again, it's all about breaking the pieces down to manageable chunks, Okay? These three in this side will be stitched together a strip. This smallest square with this bigger rectangle will be stitched together and those two will be stitched. The those two then little stitch there though six will be stitched this lump here. And then we'll do one final thing. We'll join this side to this side. And then it's all, that's literally how you piece it together. As I say, if you are squares, you can do it in five rows of five and then join the rows together just to say three key things to remember once only patchwork together as quite potent, remember this as well. It might have really, really tempting, will take us a little bit down, take these three pieces here that really attempting suicide, which one's getting patchwork pieces sound together. We're not quite sure what's going on here. So you just go to, so this pace to this edge here. Don't do it because if you do, you'll end it with a really tricky all put corner there. And that's not what we want. Okay? Most patchwork is just straight lines. Okay. And that we know they're also much easier to say than going into 90 degree corners instead of don't so that there, because you'll create that angle, decide what's going to go here first. So those two together and then attach it to there. Okay, second, really important to remember what you said in together. If you have any pieces of patchwork like this one, I've got bead in R, okay, this has got some beautiful sort of plastic beads on it. A vacuum pick them all the way down here, about half an inch inwards. The reason I don't pick them is when I can just save it on my CRM shame and know that I would break my needle if I put money down on to one of these beads here. Okay, so just try use a small pair of scissors and just remove any beads within half an inch of this edge down here, my life a lot easier for you. And the other thing that will really, really help you in the next class if you're going to add a border or in the final clusters. So I'm going to add the binding is around the edges. The outside edges if you quilt, made sure it up anything really thick or chunky. So for example, I'll try and avoid using the edge of those chunky done in genes there. Or there's a bit of a ElastiCache waste on there. I wouldn't put that there because we don't want anything too chunky on the edge. So try and keep any chunky pieces like these here, although a bit code there or GAD these bits here where we're going to trap the bring to them, try and keep them inside the quilt so ensure that all the edges around the edge of the quilt or just quite normal soft, flat edges and it will make a difference I notice. And then Recent tab, it will make a difference in units called for lessons. Okay. So I've got the cemetery ready to go. Just a quick heads up. I'm doing a normal straight stitch. I have my stitch lengths are between 2.53 and Huffman needle centered in the middle of my presser foot. We're going to be sewing a quarter inch seam allowance. A quarter inch seam allowance is the distance from where my needle is in the center here and to the edge of this presser foot and k. So you'll see when I start, start saying that is, it's quite good. It gives you a bit of a guide when you start to say these together. So we'll do this patch here, this little block of three. So I said this one to this one. Okay. You come safe opinion. I'm not going to put a pin in for now and a Sharpie. Section members, reverse stitch, start on the evolution of the loose threads I'm going along just means we need to work a case of got doses, teach, scatter. I'm now going to put this face down on here. I'm just going to cope because it's a slightly bigger same. I'm just going to put a quick pit in there. Just to top tip. If you didn't know already, if you put a pin in your work at 90 degrees to the edge that you can assign to see in the game. So e come carefully so over the payments, which is quite a good top tip to know. K reverse stitch at the end payout. The Amazon layer, we have our first block. Okay. What would recommend that you do is go to the iron and use the iron to carefully press the seam open if he can. This is quite chunky. See him along Higgs at this little pocket here. So I'll actually want to go to them. She is actually just press it flat lie down. Okay, So this block is now ready to set aside and joined to the next five pieces when I stitch those together. Okay, I've now created my first little block of three. I'm now going to sit out so that rest of the patchwork blocks together and then solve. So the whole thing scatter soccer or complete patchwork at the end. I've now peaceful patchwork together. I'm really happy with it up. I'm pleased the colors, I'm pleased to the way it looks. What needs to do now is go CI and give it a really good press. So by that, I mean to go to the scenes and press these presses flat, press them open on Preston flat with that, with the I and this will give you a patchwork, a really good rate professional finish, ready for the next step. Just one hop tip before I go any further is you may have noticed on the time-lapse just then when I come to much like the seam here with this one, I want them to match a k. That what I do is here, I've just got a normal pen and I put my opinion through the same and I'll just check it's the same on the other side, which is tears. Okay. And then Aleve the pinning ceremony Saj at least opinion. So along the edge and it wants to sell more Same a tape is pinouts. And you can see that it really helps to get those, those seam lines match look by leaving that Pylint Ramsay pins out. Say try and do that, and it really will help the peach squares together. So I'm going to go when pressed my patchwork ready for the next step promoter for this lesson, I'd like you to piece all of your postulates cover and so it together. Ready for the next class? I will fold Steely Dan, Good luck. Csm. 6. Lesson 5: Adding Borders (Optional): Hi, welcome to lesson 5. By now, you should have your completed piece of patchwork. So it may be a size like this or it may be bigger or it may even be slightly small, depend on what size of square you've made your patchwork or pig. And this lesson is optional so you don't have to do this. This lesson is about adding the borders to your patchwork. Some patchwork quilt don't meet borders, that they don't add anything to the patchwork. But some patchwork quilts do have a bolder and they look great. So I'm going to show you how to add the border in case that's what you wish to do. Just to clarify which bit broader. I just show you this sample here. The border is this blue base is blue panel in this case around the edge. Okay? So this is your border. And put that to one side. You can choose your body any color you want to. So I'm going to do mine and gray. My backends can be great in my mind, it's going to be great, but you can have your body any color you want to say if you've got small shifted or scarf off, maybe some garment that was a good size and you want to use that. You can since no problem. And again, if it's stretching, make sure you back it with interfacing mindset, just a woven cotton, it's a 100 percent cotton. That's what I'm going to use. The other thing that you need to remember is that you can have in any width you want to set some will have just showed you there. It's 2.5 inches wide. And I'm going to do the same for this one. So what I'm gonna do is I could have put a force strips that are 2.5 inches wide and the strip will be the length of the sides here at two of them will be slightly longer because they'll have the 2.5 inch bodies on these two days pieces and needs to be a bit long as you enforce, long strips of 2.5 inch, in this case, wide border strips. Okay, so first things first I've given my fabric from abroad is a really good press. Again, it's really important because cooperation and fibrous and start to get quite a few creases and what have you in them. So I've got it. I'm going to use my quilting ruler. I'm arranged recruiter, and obviously I could see my head too. You can do this without these tools. Again, I would just shoot or something with a long straight edge if you've got me to well, that would be great. Or even a big book that you could move carefully at the fabric as long as it's got a straight edge, you can put your strips. So I'm just going to cut off this curvy edge here from where it was cut off, the bolt will just trim that. Now get rid of that bit. Okay, So I'm a quilting ruler. I'm just going to measure along 1.52. Okay. Last one. Great. Just one thing to remember if you're cool is much bigger than mine and you can join your board districts as well. So you would just ball that you can't I will just stitch two threads together for a longer quilt. I guess. So I've now got my four strips ready to be touched the border. Just one thing that really will help a nice finish on your CLIL is just have a look at J's. Damn, Hey, so I've got some. Some MCS and contracts, just like show that these edges down here, a fairly straight. If there's any bits of fabric sticking out, just cut them off with the red should concern or uvula. This one's actually look in their CAG. One thing you do is double-check and I'll let everybody to do this is double-check that your co-owners. Okay, So you are right angles, your 90 degree corners here, r square a cave sites. Do that. If you go quilting ruler lay equal to move around and just ensure that this corner here, the square, so it's not too bad. And this side, I'll show you how so interested in if you don't have a quilting ruler, just tell it round and show. So I'm just making sure that that line costs and other processors bit of excess and just completing the excess off. And I'm actually just going to put my pin backing because my piece there is actually two layers, so I don't want it to come apart. So you can see here this topmost piece for you and we can't only sticking out bit. So I'm just going to trim that down. Make sure this one square. Okay. So it just goes to the next. If you don't have a rotary concern, I would use a book. Okay. As long as it's a but how about books? Really good. So I'll just grab on now. Okay. And all our tools, it's old, lay my book online. And just make sure that the fabric that's underneath is square to that corner of that book. And that, and if it isn't just got pen, draw a line and then trim it off, but that is so that's a pretty happy with that. Okay, so next what we're gonna do is we're going to attach the borders. We're going to have to at once. Okay. What I'm gonna do is is a coal mine on the Folsom site. Open two of them out. We're going to add them to this edge here, fs and takes edge here. Okay? And what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put boardroom highlight this and I'm going to pin it. Okay? So I'm going to put pins all the way along here. And longest stage along this edge. Okay? I'm going to do the same on the size of the palm, a boat on here. I'm going to put my pins in, few pins, four or five pins all the way along. And I'm going to say down here as well. Okay, so once you've got first two borders on, it should look something like this. Don't worry about these tails here with the facts. Okay, what would you do now is we're going to trim that these, these tails off. Okay, so I'm going to put my ruler down here. And I'm just going to show that. I'm just going to cut them off in line with this edge along here. Okay? Do this one as well. Slice it off. Navigators who got a nice straight edge. Ready to touch on next boulders summit, yeah, well next one, our last two borders. Okay. It should look something like this. So our next job is to attach the next two sides. You'll see that it's not as tricky as you thought. It may have been. A lot of people thought it was gonna be really complicated. And it really is, It really is just a case of taking your time, working through it carefully said, and this one here. And we're just going to repeat the process that we did with the first two and the power board around here, right sides together. And it's turning over penny on and sold on this ledge and then said on the next edge, and then that's our borders. Okay, so you've now seen me attach all four borders to my, my patchwork. Your task now to the end of this lesson is to attach your borders. So first of all, you need to decide what they're going to be. Bidding to decide what fabric you're going to add evolves in. And you're going to take it step-by-step and add those borders so two at a time, trim them off and they're not the final two. To set it up. If you look at my password now in who see these ends? I can trim those off a little bit smaller, but don't trim your quilt down at this stage. I'm just going to leave my desk because we are going to trim your patchwork down their behalf today. Live in and the banks in the Colton stage that for now, I'm just going to leave mine like this, ready for Lesson 6. See you then. Bye. 7. Lesson 6: Layering & Basting: Welcome to Lesson 6. In today's lesson, I'm going to show you how to layer have to based PID and then quilt patchwork. Okay, this is a really exciting part of the process. And personally it's my favorite bits when we patchwork starts to become a quilt, it starts to become something truly Boolean and unique to you. So what you're going to need is you can meet you back in fabric. I'm using this gray as you can see here. I've given it a press. As you can see, it doesn't need to be perfectly flat, but if it had an increase slide is just give them a press out. As I have done. You also going to need your batting or your Wadden layer in the middle. We talked about this at the start. But again, I'm going to use this a 100 percent cotton batting because I really like it warm. It gets better with age. It doesn't lose its shape and it's quite heavy, It's quite weight. So when I'm wrapped up in a quilt, have that weighted feeling which I really like. I also have my patchwork here as well. And I've got some quotes and things. You may or may not have these. You may be using safe to pavements or you might actually be used in a ham, so a needle and some thread that's doable too. Okay, so what I've done is I've pressed my fabric and I will just use bit masking tape and tape the edges four points. That's my table. Do be mindful. If you've got a much bigger quilt, then there's all. You've got this tough cookie, you've got much smaller area to work on. And I would just work on that area. So if you've got a smaller desk, just taped the desk, whatever you can. So don't worry if you can't have it like I have in that you've got all thoughts side. Just take one side and then keep smoothing away from it so you get that nice taut, taut fabric there. Okay, set first instance, got our backing fabric here. Don't forget, right side down. This could be the inside of the quilt facing. You don't really good side of the fabric facing opposite pattern. You want the bad side facing up. Okay? Stand up for this bit. And that's going to lay batting on. And what we're gonna do is just loose ligand. That if you using this 100 percent cotton button icon, you will be probably by now, whether it's quality is quite firewall, it's quite movable, which is great. But it does mean that you have to really take some time. Just smoothen out. I don't want is we're trying to avoid and decreases or puckers or gathers in you published why we've used the tape. Why I'm just taking this time to smooth my quote down. Okay, so next we've got a patchwork hair. And I'm just going to lie either on. I'm not going to really tie up to this edge here. I'm just consult place level leave probably a couple of centimeters of an inch. What we'll do is we'll start in the middle and I'm going to work my way out. So I'm going to use my hands to smooth a patchwork out. Okay, to do remember, start from middle of worry, way out. Now when I'm happy that it's smooth and it's not too squishy, It's not too slanted here. And just giving us some pins. And I'm just going to pop some pins in a case of layer my fabric. And this is the base in businesses that pin in it together because I want to hold it together. Well, I'm going to sew it shortly. Okay, so what I'm gonna do is I'm not going to cover it in pens like lots of pins. I'm just going to put them in a tend to put them around the tricky parts, whether seems much here. But I do put them in randomly in the middle of the patchwork. What we're doing is we're putting the Pindex. We want the patchwork to stay together. We want it to stay put while we're sewing it. Okay, once we're coconut. So you can see I'm working from the middle and I'm working my way out. Now this one here with the, has had on there and all this bead and this is tricky, is it's got beat and it's got a mind of its own. So just going to pop maybe a couple of extra ones in an around here. Because I know it I want to move about, I want to come to so if you've got we'll feel feel fabrics. If you're making a quilt from an adult clothing, and you may be just using all shirting fabrics or woven fabrics. And you'll have a really easy time here. You won't have any problems because if they're all cotton and Rob woven, they'll do what you ask them today with. They'll stay put high. As you can now see, I've pinned to my quilt. And a good way of knowing whether you've got enough pins in your quill is to put your hand on here. And you want to be able to touch a sort of three or four pins at any one time. Just make sure you've got pins in any tricky areas, like I explained before, like, hey, I've got lots of be turned on. Or indeed, where there's tricky corners, where there's four seems that me here, I've got a couple of pins in there. And again, you'll need a few at the edge and one and each of the four corners. But as long as you've got good scattering of pins, That's perfect. Do turn it over, check on the back. There's no puckers or creases in your backing fabric and you've got to go, you could just go to the next bit, which is the quilting bit. And it is brilliant again. Because we're doing a first quilt used in clothing or old material, I'm going to suggest just using one of two ways to quilt your your patchwork. You will. I'm sure if you Google it or you look on the internet, there are literally hundreds and thousands of different ways you can sew stitch in line to cross the patchwork quilt. Your work. I'm gonna suggest just choose one of two ways. And there is a reason for this is because it's probably the first time I've done this. The first way that I'm going to tell you about is really good. If you've got adult clothing that maybe doesn't have many logos or you haven't got many trims like these big T's and this beat in here. And that would be to quote diagonally. Okay, so by that I mean, you start at one end and you stitch straight lines through the diagonal corners of all of the squares into the other side. Okay. You would dad come on her CIO next corner of your square and quote diagonally across. Okay, then you turn your quilt round and you would say diagonally across your work, going through from corner to corner of each of your squares on big long straight line that can look so original and so professional. And it was really, really well if you've got lots of plain fabric saved, Michael's made up of properties like these, without any of these trims on that would work really well. But Because of my quill is made up of lots of things like motifs. And I've got boot is there and I've got the bottom of genes and got little hard and I've got this nice embroidery him speeding. I know that going diagonally wherever look very nice on this globe. So what I'm going to do, and I would recommend you do if you've got similar features on your prologue and I have it is that you saw in the ditch. So by sewn in the ditch. And then we're going to say literally in the dish. So we're in the ditch of the seam lines down here. So it will still have quilted I work with are still stitch those those stitch lines into it but would have done it really discreetly. See you actually see stitch lines. Okay. Because she couldn't go In here along the DEJ. Okay. I'm going to recommend that you start by summing in the middle of working your way out. Okay, so I'm going to start by so and down here. And then I'll probably go down here. I'll stop here. And then I'll start going here and do from there to there. And then I'll go across, work your way out of your quilt. It just helps because it's through our governors or your fabrics a bit full. It does help get rid of those onto the machine. I am going to use my server machine to quilt, to do my stitching lines. You can of course, use Hmm sounds ditches to quilt your work. Really beautiful. And if you're confident to do that, by all means quilt by hand, I'm going to call it using machine. I'm going to quilt on about monoglutamate my stitch line slightly bigger because it's going through three layers. So I'm going to go sort between 3.53. It is a matter of personal taste. I don't want Tyler's the stitches to want big stitches. I'm going to sew with my needle in the middle. Just the standard straight stitch. I'm using a 100 percent cotton thread because most of the fabric that I'm using is cotton. So it's kind of like for like I'm using a white on the top because predominantly my quote was caught pay on top and I'm going in a ditch. So you shouldn't see the 60s anyway. And on the bottom, I've got this color, which is a blue gray color, and I think that goes really quite nicely with the grade. Okay, so that's colorable, shown the background. So I'm now going to call it a quilt in the ditch. And we'll see what it looks like when I'm done. As you can see, I've now finished my sewing. I've stitch in the ditch. And you can see that my stitch lines aren't all that visible, which is just how I wanted it. And a couple of top tips for you. Firstly, a question I get asked a lot is do you see across an end to the border? No, you don't. So what you can do is you can stitch in the ditch if you're patchwork, if you went to the bar that when you get to the border, just stop. Okay. Don't stitch through the body. Just stop. When you stitch all of your stitch lines, whether it be down lower in the ditch, you need to do if you've got bored and this is only if you've got border is do a stitch line all the way around the Balder, a cake. So you not on the border, you're in the ditch between the edge of the patchwork and where the basically the bit where the patchwork joins the border, That's where you want to stitch see along here. Okay. I've got all the way around. A couple of other things. Remember to backstitch at the start and the end of your stitching line. Now make sure your stitches and really tie in the dark purple dots. That's a good one to remember as some of you may have one of these, which is the walking foot for your so much shame, please feel free to use your walking foot as you're doing your your password. This is exactly what these walking feet were created for. I personally just prefer to use a standard presser foot, which I've got here. So please don't feel like you need to go gun battle of these Zhang because the camera quite expensive, I choose a normal depressor thought and it works just fine for me, but I would say is a matter of personal preference and personal choice. So do you use on these if you have one and we are happy to use it. Otherwise, just SHE standard presser foot is absolutely fine. Your task for this lesson is to go away. It's to carefully and spend some time pressing, pulling it back in fabric flat lay that would you bought in, put the patch on the current getting it pins in. Are you takin stitches to hold it in place, based in place. And then create all your stitch in largely quilt in lines. When you get to the stage I'm at, now, you're ready to go on the very last lesson which is finishing equal and add a new binding. I'll see you then. 8. Lesson 7: Making and Adding Binding To Finish: Well done. You've made it to lesson 7. We're now at the last lesson and it's the lesson while we finished our quilts half. So to finish it off, we need to finish these edges off. We need to update binding. You'll notice if you can see my quote here, that I've now trimmed my quilt down. I did use the rotary constitutes do it and the quilting ruler. But you can easily do this with a straight edge and some scissors by marking on the access that you need to cut off. And please ensure that your corners are at 90 degree angles. And what would recommend is that on the back of the quilt, you just cop a little pin in like that and that will hold your legs, get it ready for when we start to bind him. Okay. So let's get that out of the way. So what do you need to do now is you need to cook some strips of binding. And I've just clicked this from the grade of fabric that above and the fabric shop. But again, as I explained in the previous lesson, you can use any fabric for you bind in at all. You might want a different color awesome thing with the pattern. I'm just going with gray. What do you need to do is lead to cut strips of binding that when the joint together, they're slap up 20 or 30 centimeters bigger than the whole distance around the edge of your quill. So I've put four strips of binding like this, which I know will be more than big enough. If your pool is much bigger than you're going to need to put lots of Australia's, but you need to just sort of just double-check that it's bigger than the circumference of equaled. Okay, I'm now going to show you how to join them. We're going to join them. I'm going to use a certain machine. And what we're gonna do is we're going to have one strip here like this. And we'll go to join dot join but 45 degrees. So I've got one strip here, my second strip and their place over there. And I'll just put a pin in C. You can see where I'm going to say. Okay, I'm going to say from this corner down to this corner. So when I opened it out, it'll be a really nice scene and join there. Okay, And then we're gonna replace it with the other two pieces. So we've got one long piece of binding, just about SaaS. So I'm going to say from where the needle is here on the edge. And I'm going to come down to this corner here. I'll remove the pin as I'm going through my back stitch. Tight the pin out and the backstitch again. Move my hands off. And what I will do with the scissors, cut those threads off at the end. I've also got a trim this down. Get rid of those. And then I'm going to attach the next one. I've now come over to the iron. I've got my binding and wouldn't want big long piece. And I've just started at one end and I'm just pressing it in half. Basically I've started at one end. And when it come to one of the joint here, I'm just going to press that open cake because I want it nice and flat. And then I'm just going to, so I'm not going to show it in half and then press it in half. And I'm going to continue him away right the way down for me to post piece of bindings rule. Okay. I've now got older binding of Preston. Preston seems open up, press it in 1.5 big long piece and no ready to start attaching it to my quilt first. Before I do that, I'm just going to discuss to make life a lot easier for you when you come to join it at the end, I'm going to place a need to cut down here 45 degrees. It won't make much sense now, but it will make a big difference. Does say when we come to join the two ends of the binding together. And I have got a quilting ruler, so it is a lot easier for me because it's got a 45-degree mark on it. So I'm just going to put that arm up like that. Okay. So now with that 45 degree cut, I'm now ready to start to attach it to my quilt. If you don't have a quilting ruler with the 45 degree angle on it. If you draw a diagonal line on your original square template that you used, your patriot pieces out. That is a 45 degree line. So just cut across that line and use that and mark it with a pencil. And then you get this, you get the same line. We're going to start to attach the binding. You'll notice that I've turned the cutover. We're going to start on the back. We're going to attach that. We can start to attach the binding on the back. Now, a top tip is to start your binding in my case, because this is where it's quite easy, but I'm going to start a binder about halfway down one side. And I'm going to make sure that this join here isn't going to hit one of my corners, okay, because it's, it's a bit thicker and it made it a little bit trickier to try and ensure that your, your joins, your diamond joints don't fall on a corner. You can jiggle it about accordingly. I'm going to start here. I'm gonna put that down there, but I'm not gonna start so in here because I need some length on it to join it at the other end, I'm going to start about ten centimeters or about four inches down from the from the COGS. I'm going to so again, like most quilting is a quarter inch seam allowance. It's a quarter-inch from either needles going to go into the fabric to this edge down here. And I'm going to just so rarely carefully, I'm just doing a straight stitch. I'm not between a 2.53 and I'm just going to save down to the corner to corner. And I want you to watch really carefully what we do when the reach that one of them and backstitch in it starts. Okay, I've reached the corner and you'll notice I've got a pin in here That's just to keep my three layers together, I would recommend that you put four pins in. And on the back. It should the content does help. I'm going to send them to this point here and then I'm going to pivot and cook down into this corner. And Kay, so just what clinic have labor, Sarah, if my pen and you can play with it. Okay. I'm going to set up two. About here, which is about a quarter-inch, quarter-inch from this edge here. I'm going to lift my presser foot top. I'm going to pivot and I'm going to say diagonally at 45 degrees, right Dan is that very common, separated and backstitch that. And then I'm going to take out my machine. So you'll see I've stitched along and then of commitment thoughts, Frage, grays and backstitch day. So I need to turn the corner. I'm going to do is I'm going to turn the fabric around the taper pin outs. I don't need anymore my pin in anymore. Okay. So we're gonna take the binding is not stitched on yet and we're just going to fold it back like that. Okay, so you see it's really nice, neat fault. And that fault is just runs nicely parallel to the, to the edge of the fabric at the top. So what we're gonna do now is we're going to put it back in the machine. And we're going to put the needle in sort of bow here, which is about a quarter inch from the top edge and the side edge. We're just going to start it there. Okay. Sorry. I have a garden and start with money limb because it's important that started there. I will start So M and I'm going to backstitch again and then continue to serve all the way around the quilt until I got to get back to where I started. But I'm going to leave a gap of about 10 centimeters. Before that, the piece that we started way up now stitched my binding on all the way around. You'll see that I've left a gap. It's about 20 centimeters or good. So of a nine inches there. This is the bit that we could start in pace that we've got 45 degrees and this is the end and paste. What I'm going to do is this is really good way of joining nibbling then, because this is a little bit tricky if you've not done it before. I think this way really helps route going to sit more binding from the end onto there. Can you see that? That what we'll do is I'm going to use and Titus chalk or a fabric kind of wherever you've got a temporary mark. So you see the temporary mark of just made there. What I'm gonna do is I'm going to quote here, I'm not going to call on that mark because that would mean that the wasn't Ellie binding fabric left, join this end, this end. So what we'll do it, I'm actually going to cause half an inch this way. Okay. And it's about right roughly is about 45 degrees. So I'm just going to cook this up. The start date of cults rather a line that's half an inch further. This way of extra binding fabric to the line that I've just made. So what that would say now is that we need to stitch these two edges together. Okay? So I'm going to carefully pick them up and I'm going to put them back to back and position them about. So that kind of It'll just going to put a pin in. So this should stay willfully port when I come to. So what we'll do now is I'm going to say a quarter inch seam allowance down this edge here. Okay, Let's see coming together. So it is fiddly this bit you will need to talk today about actually you've got a good pin in to keep it all in place because you will need it to her to make sure they sit way. You want them to write about men monomials ready to go. I'm a quarter inch from the edge. The facts dish went backstage and I was him a pin out. So Dharma, same as showing that all acts and lives are girls and backstitch again at either end. Now fingers crossed. Make them on the way so you can say, okay, now what we'll do now is I'm just going to finger press that seam open. You don't know, you can't press it with the iron if you want to, but either don't just finger press star. Now, if we carefully followed that with our hands, you'll say that that binding should fit perfectly there. K is perfect. So all we need to do now is that last bit stitching down here and then all the binder in a detached. Okay. And I'm ready for the very last stage of the whole quilt making process, so we're nearly there, so hang on in there. Okay. So again, just carrying on the line that I stopped just a few minutes ago. There we go. Okay. So we've now got the binding on. Okay? What we're gonna do now is we have 10 over onto the good side, onto the side that we're going to spend time looking at. Okay, what I'm gonna do is I'm just going to trim the ends off like this. This is under the mix where we've got joins in there, just trim those off as well. Any sirens are going to cut them off. What I'm gonna do is I'm going to show you the next stage of the process. And what would they when we reach a corner, I said, what we're gonna do is we're going to roll the bind dead from the back around to the front is quite, it's quite straightforward. You're going to need to do. I want, I tend. I say you're going to need to do. You might be a lot better at it were made and bought. What I did is I roll it from the back to the front and I do a few stitches and then I roll it again. Okay. I find that the easiest way and I made hundreds of days. See how you get on. So we're going to practice stitch from the Stat and then roll around the crisis. This is the stitches. I'm not sure if you can see on the video, but what we're hoping for is that the stitches here and I run a fairly straight line next to the, the, the edge of the bind in there. Okay. So we're going to work our way down towards the corner that carried on anybody to panic because we're coming towards the column. It's at this point here right now that you can really glad that you took the time to trim the corners down to 90 degrees. What we're gonna do is we're going to fold it as flat as we can plot that. And then we see how folded this corner over. And we're going to bring that round and you'll see that you get a really nice might occur there on the bounding. So we're going to sell down to here. We're going to sell onto the Azure Bot and leave our needle in there. And then we're going to prohibit the quill around to go through to get a nice corner. So commonly live beside my lift oppressive for oh, I'm going to turn it round. And again, I'm just going to spend the time to really roll out binded over for a person who brought down, I am still a couple of extra bucks stitches on the corners. You don't have to, but I like to do that. Shoulder and a carry out the stitching them. Okay. Said. Then she corner you can see that it's a really nice, neat 90 degree corner with a really good mindset edge. You'll see on the back that the stitching line on the back is nice and neat and it's parallel to the same line where you attach bind in. So what I'm gonna do now is I'm going to carry on stitching the binded down all the way around the edge of the quilt. Massive. Well, don't. You should have now finished quilt and you should be a hope, fingers crossed, delighted with it. You've saved all those precious fabrics and with robots and memories. Along the way too. I really hope you've enjoyed the course. I would love to see your work if you could take a quick photo and put it in the Class Projects tab and underneath it would be fantastic. I'd love to see work. I really enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and see you soon.