How to Sculpt a Person In a Suit With Polymer Clay | Model-Making | Cake Topper | Clay Disarray | Skillshare

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How to Sculpt a Person In a Suit With Polymer Clay | Model-Making | Cake Topper

teacher avatar Clay Disarray, Artist & illustrator

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

12 Lessons (27m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Getting started

    • 3. Making the Base and Legs

    • 4. Bake #1

    • 5. Making the Shirt, Tie & Waistcoat

    • 6. Making the Head

    • 7. Making the Jacket

    • 8. Bake #2

    • 9. Making the Hair

    • 10. Bake #3

    • 11. The End Result

    • 12. Conclusion

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About This Class

Join me as I take you through in detail how to make a polymer clay model of a person, and this time wearing a three piece suit. Once completed, your little model can also be used as a cake topper, which would of course work well for a suited and booted chap you know! 

In this class, you will learn how to use basic armatures, and how to bake new clay on top of old. The same principles can be applied to making other models of 'human' forms, should you wish to create a different pose or make a more detailed outfit. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Clay Disarray

Artist & illustrator


Lizzie Campbell, who uses the pseudonym Clay Disarray, is a professional clay artist and illustrator based in the UK. She studied at the Birmingham Institute of Art & Design where she graduated with a degree in illustration. Although Lizzie has been drawing for almost all of her life, she discovered polymer clay in 2012 and has since used the material for all of her creative work. 


 John Lennon 'Imagine' sleeve for Secret 7" 


Specialising in character design, her work explores the area between sculpture and image-making, often with a pinch of humour thrown in for good measure. Lizzie has worked on a number of projects including editorial illustration, advertisi... See full profile

Related Skills

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3. Making the Base and Legs: To start, I'm just going to wipe down my work surface just to ensure that my space is cost-free because the cleaner your work environment is, the cleaner. Note out your final result will be, so I'm gonna give my little mortal whitespace. So just gonna go in with a wet wipe and ensure that it's nice and clean. It's a good little tip actually. So I recommend that you have a pack of what pipes nearby whenever you're working with polymer clay. And with my credit, probably just going to go and flatten that style. And I'd really recommend that you use some grease proof paper underneath your piece because it just makes it a lot easier to move around freely. So now I'm just going to cut out a circle. Nice and easy. And that should just pop out fairly easily, like so. And again, with a wet wipe, I'm just going to go around the sides to ensure that they're nice and smooth because you can't get indentations as a result of using the plastic cookie-cutter. So now, okay, I'm just gonna go over with my wet wipe and clean my space down again. So I'm gonna give my little chaps, some black shoes. So I've got two identical sizes of black balls of clay here. And really easy, I'm just gonna go and flatten those out into a very basic shape. And the more experience you get with clay, the more detail you can add to your shoes. So I'm just going to keep it nice and simple for today, just a beginner level. So here we go there looking pretty similar. And that river similar size. All that I need. And I'll just pop those on the base, like so. And I'm trying to make sure that the backend of the shoe is roundabouts in the middle of the circle to ensure good balance off the module once it's done. And I'm using a very basic armature today and you can't use cocktail sticks if you like. But I'm going to go for some craft fly up. And I'll just pop that into the shoes like so. And that should go right down to the bottom to be terribly long. Just to ensure that you're like as well secure well to your before shoes really. So just cut the end off here. So I'm going to clean town my space again. So now I need to move on to the trousers of the suits. And before we get started, I drink, appends the happy lots of clay in the same color to ensure that you've got a good match for the trousers and the suit jackets. There's nothing worse than starting a project where you've not got enough clay and you have to try and color match because it's really difficult. So maybe you'd want to start with a black or a pre-mixed color available from female horse go pee because yeah, it's really difficult to color match. And particularly when you're working in sort of fairly large quantities of polymer clay. So I'm just going to roll out some trials is here, like so. And take the ends off with my blade tool. And I'll just spend over the trousers like so. So it's really easy. And to ensure that my models are pretty secure, I like to use female liquid, which is bashed up here. But it's really great to have as a tool in your studio. So Hi, Yeah, I just tend to pop a little dollop on to the craft wild like so. And that will really enable your trousers to a deer have a passerine. So I just need to attach the suit trousers like so. And this fit can be there for fiddly. And if you're not careful, you might get your armature, shoot through who travels alike. So yeah, it's worth just taking a few moments to ensure that you are able to get this nice as possible. Really. Just finish with a wet pipe to ensure that any sort of bits that Avery, et cetera, and taken off the peaks. And it's back to some craft Jolla, just going to add some into the top of the trousers. So I'm using two pieces again. And that will enable your body to be secure to your trials. It's Spades just adds a couple of dollops of liquid female. Again, ab.js mix that rounds with my bowl tool here just to ensure that its costs a good coverage going on. And now it's ready to bake. 4. Bake #1: So now it's time to bake the whole base. So I've just set my now on my baking sheet here that I use only for polymer clay work. You shouldn't be using something that you also use for foods. And I've got a collection of mugs that I use really to act as stabilizers. Just to ensure that if my model does become a little off balance while baking, that it's got something to fall back onto. But I'm trying to ensure that they don't actually touch because I don't want any indentations in my case, so I'm just going to pop it in the oven now. And at this point, so you'll need to refer to to polymer clays, bacon instructions. 5. Making the Shirt, Tie & Waistcoat: Now my model's legs are all baked and cold, I can move on to the body. I'm going to start with some white polymer clay to make the shirts. But of course, you can use whatever color of polymer clay that you fancy. I need to start by conditioning my clay. Just as a tip, it might be helpful to have a wet wipe nearby just to pick up any bits of debris that appear on your clay, so that you end up with a cleaner results, hopefully. I need to create just a very basic body shape that you'll see here. I'm just trying to flatten that a little at the front because this will be essentially the shirt front. There we go. There's my trusty wet wipe to pick up any tiny flecks of dust kicking about. I've got some liquid Fimo here, which is a little battered as you'll see. But I'm just going to add some to the craft wire like so. It just enables the elements to adhere better basically when it goes through the baking process. I'll just very gently aim to push that down into the trousers and mold that in a little. Again, take off any debris with a wet wipe. Now I'm going to create a little tie. I got quite a nice mauve color of polymer clay here. With my blade cutting tool, I'm just going to go in and make a very basic tie shape. Take the top off and put in a V at the bottom. Invariably, you might need to just neat it off as you go just so it's balanced on both sides. There we go. That can be placed into the center of the body. A little dots will finish you off. But I wouldn't press down too firmly at this point because you may well need to move it while you're adjusting your collar. Now, I'm going to move on to a waistcoat. It's entirely up to you if you wanted to include a waistcoat or not. I did actually film this from above as well, but for whatever reason, I lost the footage, so apologies for that. But hopefully, you'll be able to see what I'm doing. Down the center, I'm just going to create a little line with the other side of my blade cutting tool, so I don't want it to go through. It's just to scar it really. I'll take out a little triangle at the bottom and make those into little V's. Do a similar thing at the top, but with a much deeper V. I'm sure you can see, it's starting to resemble a waistcoat already. I'm just going to take off the ends. I might bring those in a little further like so. The waistcoat is all done. Now I can attach that to the body. I just need to ensure that it's right in the center. I think I need actually to take some more clay off the sides because you won't see that, so it doesn't actually need to be there. I'll just take a little bit more off and place that on. I'm just trying to eye up where the center is. There we go. Once you're happy with the placements, you can start pressing down on the waistcoat. Not too firmly though, because you want it to still look neat, but you need to press down at the sides. I'll just use a wet wipe to ensure that that's really well secured. If you fancy, you can add some buttons to your waistcoat like so. This part of the process is all done, so now we can move on to his head. 6. Making the Head: Now, it's time to make the head for the model. I won't go too deep into character design today. I think I may well save that for another tutorial at some stage, but essentially, it's about making our own work unique and just experimenting with different facial elements to arrive at a style that you're happy with. I've developed my own style as an artist through clay disarray, but some I'm working in a very generic-y, cartoony style today. I'm just going to go in and create a couple of cartoon eyes. I'm making two sockets with my bowl tool here. I've left the nose to the side really just so I can pop in some eyeballs. There's the second, just pat those in like so, and I'll just add in a couple of pupils, just put some black polymer clay. The skin tone that I'm using here is FIMO doll arts and it's in Sam's. They have some really brilliant colors actually to use basically as basis. You can obviously see or lighten the skin tone that so you have as a base, but I'll just stick with Sam's as it comes out of the packet today. I'm going to give him a pair of basic ears. I'll just attach those onto the sides. Here's one and here's the second. You don't have to attach ears if you don't want to, you can work in a contemporary style perhaps just with [inaudible] and a nose maybe. I'm not going to give my little [inaudible] today, but I just wanted to demonstrate how easy it is to pop on a mouth if you wanted to. Just a little drops of clay here in the same tone as the face, so just going to position that like so and that gives [inaudible] mouth. But as I say, I'm not giving him a mouth today. I need to make him a neck. I've just got rounds piece of clay here and just flatten that down like so and I'll place that at the top of the model in the center. Here we go, and so I'll just cut off some more craft wire and I'm going to put that right down the center and just press down. Again, I'll pop some liquid [inaudible]. I want to ensure that my head attaches in the right place, so I'm just working out where I want it to go with my needle tool, so I'll just pop that onto the craft wire and press down. There we go. He's looking more like a man now. I want to give my character a little mustache, just with something different really. I've just got a very tiny cookie cutter tool here. I'm just going to cut out essentially a pair of eye shapes really and attach to the model, but just under his nose, one and two. We've now completed this part of the process, so now we'll move on to making him a jackets.