How to Paint: Watercolor Loose Florals | Audrey | Skillshare

How to Paint: Watercolor Loose Florals

Audrey, Watercolorist and Modern Calligrapher

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12 Lessons (59m)
    • 1. Trailer

      1:27
    • 2. Supplies Overview

      4:38
    • 3. Bouquet Shapes

      1:38
    • 4. Basic Painting Techniques

      9:17
    • 5. Let's Paint: Color Theory and Mixing

      8:48
    • 6. Let's Paint: Leaves Part 1

      8:26
    • 7. Let's Paint: Leaves Part 2

      3:31
    • 8. Let's Paint: Various Flowers

      6:55
    • 9. Let's Paint: Roses

      2:45
    • 10. Let's Paint: Peonies

      4:47
    • 11. Let's Paint: Putting it All Together

      4:13
    • 12. Concluding Thoughts

      2:27
60 students are watching this class

About This Class

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This class is perfect for beginners who want to dip their toes in watercolors and paint some pretty florals! 

We’ll start with the basics of watercolor, supplies, color theory, basic brush strokes, and then practice painting five different floral elements.

By the end of the class, you will be able to combine these floral elements to create a stunning watercolor floral bouquet in the loose style!

(Free background music provided by Bensound.com)

Transcripts

1. Trailer: Hi there. My name is Audrey and I'm the owner of Things Unseen Designs, a watercolor and modern calligraphy business based in the northwest suburbs of Chicago. This is my first Skillshare class, and I'm really excited to demonstrate how to paint with watercolors in the loose style. What is the loose style? It's basically a free hand way of painting, there is little to no sketching required. I love this style because it allows for maximum creativity and imagination. But as with any skill, you need to have the basics down. By the end of this class. You will check you've learned to create your own beautiful floral bouquet. Here's how this class will be taught. First, I'll share some of my favorite supplies and recommendations for the beginner watercolorist. We'll explore the different kinds of bouquets shapes, then we'll dive right into painting by learning basic techniques, color theory, and mixing. After you've learned the basics, we'll learn how to paint floral elements such as leaves, tulips, roses, and peonies. Finally, we'll put all of these elements together to create our own unique bouquet. At the end of each step, you'll share your progress and your final bouquet with everyone. I can't wait to see what you'll create. For some inspiration, feel free to check out my Instagram and my blog at thingsunseendesigns.com. Thanks. 2. Supplies Overview: Hey everyone and welcome to Video 2, we will be talking about my supplies. As it is with any skill you need to have the right tools, for watercolors, there are student grade and artists grade. If you're just dabbling in watercolor, but maybe want to take it seriously, then I highly recommend that you skip the generic store brand, and go for the student grade. In this video, I want to share my favorite supplies for the watercolor beginner, because they are versatile and affordable. I already have a few blog posts about it. Make sure to check them out on my website, and in future videos, I hope to share more about supplies and how to figure out what's right for you. Let's start with paper, two things you want to consider are texture and weight. There are three types of textures, hard crust, cold pressed and rough. Of these three, cold press is the most commonly used. It has a noticeable texture that varies between manufacturers. Paper weight is listed as pounds or grams per meter or GSM. The higher the number, the heavier the paper. For water coloring, the most commonly used weight is a 140 pounds or 300 GSM. Some beginners will use mixed media paper, which is 90 pounds, as it is more affordable, and can withstand light watercolor use. However, if you want to become more serious with your water coloring, use a 140 pound paper, so that you can better understand how watercolors behave. For a beginner, the Canson brand is really affordable, and is available and most craft stores and on Amazon, this is a 140 pound cold press paper, and it works just fine. Next, using the right brush is just as important as paper and paints. Some things you want to consider, are the brush quality, size, and shape. Brushes are either made from real animal hairs, such as squirrel, or goats or are synthetic. As a beginner, I would recommend purchasing synthetic as they are cheaper. However, don't feel like you have to buy the entire path of watercolor brushes, because sometimes it with watercolor, less is more. Of all the different shapes of brushes, I would recommend purchasing round brushes as they are the most versatile, you can achieve really broad strokes and fine details. Each brushes [inaudible] made it with a number that indicates the size. You have to note that some sizes will vary slightly between manufacturers. For beginner, I'd recommend purchasing a size two, and a size six, or eight. To two will be great for fine details, six or eight will be great for broad strokes, as well as the fine details. If you'd like to paint bigger, go for a size 12, 14 or 16. Some brands that I like to use are the Winsor Newton cotton series, that Grumbacher, and the Princeton. There available and most craft stores and online art stores. Lastly, let's talk about paints. Watercolor paints can come in pans or tubes. While there are pros and cons to both pans are generally more affordable and convenient for the beginner water colorist. A few of the most popular brands also include Winsor and Newton, Grumbacher, Prima Marketing inc, [inaudible] etc. There are several factors that go choosing a watercolor paints, the cost, quality, portability, etc. While you can purchase generic store brands at a low price, these tend to be lower quality and can often leave a chalky residue or look. My first and favorite set of watercolors is a Winsor and Newton Cotman water colors Skechers pocketBox.. I would highly recommend this to the beginner,it comes in a small box like this. It's super light and compact, and there are 12 colors and three mixing areas. It's really easy to work with, and it already comes with the brush. These colors are more than enough. The colors are super vibrant, and the contact case is perfect for when you're on the go. Once you have obtained your paints, create a swatch like this one. It will be very useful later on, I hope this video was helpful in helping you to determine which supplies to start with. Remember that the tools are your best friend. So make sure to get good supplies, so that you can advance far in the world of watercolor. As part of a project, share a photo of your supplies and your swatch. I would love to hear about how you like your supplies. Thanks. 3. Bouquet Shapes: Hey everyone and welcome to video 3 where we'll be talking about bouquet shapes. A bouquet as a general term for an attractive arrangement of flowers. In this video, I want to highlight five different shapes that are popular with loose florals. Feel free to experiment with your own shapes as well. The first is the standard which looks like a typical bouquet, the kind that you hold at a wedding. The flower shows the stems that extend downward. The bouquet features two or three main flowers and other smaller floral elements or you might have a bouquet of just one type of flower. The second is around the shape. This is when the flora elements are arranged loosely within a circular shape with one or two large flowers as the focal points. Next is a bouquet in a triangular shape. You might see these cascading bouquets that are long or have vines. The reef is probably my favorite shape. You can either have a full or a partial reef. The reef can also be as wide or as thin as you want it. The possibilities for floral arrangements are limitless. The last one is a pattern. For this one, you can simply choose three to five flora elements and repeat them in a semi organized way. Patterns can be easily translated to fabric, journal covers, phone cases, and so much more. As part of your project, do a Google search of bouquets, shapes or loose floral arrangements and save a couple of the pictures to your project and talk about why you like them. I look forward to seeing your inspiration. 4. Basic Painting Techniques: Hey everyone. Welcome to video 4, where we'll be talking about basic paints and techniques. These techniques that you're going to learn are like the ABCs of water coloring. We need to understand how water colors behave in order to be able to explore them and manipulate them further. In this video, I'm going to demonstrate six different techniques. The wet on dry, wet on wet, dry on dry or dry brush, a graded wash, a variegated wash and layering. Let's get started. We'll start by labeling our papers that we know which technique we're doing. Divide your paper into six sections and label them with the techniques. Wet on dry, wet on wet, dry on dry, graded wash, variegated wash, and layering. Let's start with the wet and dry method. This is a pretty standard technique. Start by wetting your paint with clean water to activate it. You can do that by splitting your paints like so, or you can use a wet brush and then activate the paint this way. Once you've activated your paint, load your brush with the color. If your brushes too wet, you won't pick up enough paint. So blot your brush on the paper towel to let out some of the water, but not all of it. It's hard to tell here, but about halfway up the brush bristles has been filled with color. Once you have your color, go ahead and pick up the paints and then paint a simple shape. The wet on wet is my personal favorite technique. We will be adding wet paint onto wet paper, start with a clean brush and lay down a thin layer of clean water on the paper. This can get tricky because if you have too much water then your paint won't spread as easily. To make sure you have the right amount of water, you want a nice sheen to the paper. To make sure you have the right sheen, try holding up your paper to eye level. If you can see the texture of the paper, then you have a nice sheen. But if you see a solid water bubble, then you have too much water. To remedy that, you can just let it dry on its own, or you can take a dry brush and then pick up the excess water. You can also use a napkin or paper towel or a rag. Now that has a pretty nice sheen to it. Then all I'm going to touch my brush to the area, and then you'll see the color travel. This effect is cool and you can contrast it to the what on dry. You'll see that the wet and dry has a clean edge and just the clean look overall. Whereas the wet on wet has a rough edge or fuzzy edge, whatever you want to call it. We'll let that dry and you can already see the difference. But once it's dry, then you can really tell the difference. Next, we'll do dry on dry. I mostly use this method for adding final details to the painting. With a completely clean and dry brush pickup some paint. Now, even though your brush may be dry, your paint is going to have some water in it, because it needs water to be activated. But as long as your brush is dry, we'll get the right effect. So I'm going to go ahead and pick up some of the paint here, make sure it's not too wet and if it's too wet, you can always blot it out on your paper towel, and then try to pick up some more paint that way. For the dry on dry, we're just going to make some slash marks like this. You'll notice that there are some white spots here and that's okay, that's the effect that we're going for, we don't want to completely clean and filled in like the wet and dry. We want a drawing look to it. This is known as using a dry brush. Next, we'll try some washes. The graded wash is basically a monochromatic gradient. Choose a pink color and with a semi wet brush, load your brush with the color. I'm just going to keep using blue, just because it's a good color. I'm going to go ahead and load my brush with it. We're going to start at the top of our area and then paint a few horizontal strokes. We want the darkest color to be at the top, and then to wash it out, just wash your brush a little bit and then go over the previous layer and just drag it out. A variegated wash is a mix between the graded wash and the wet on wet. We're going to start with a graded wash and then add a new color and then you'll see how the colors blend and bleed into each other. This variegated wash is a good technique for those flowers that have lots of small, tiny details, little bumps on the leaves. You don't have to add these details because again, loose floral says more about just the overall effect rather than the tiny details. But this is just still a cool technique to know. The last technique we're going to look at is layering. Layering is perfect for watercolors because of their transparent nature. I'm just going to paint a simple shape. I'll just paint a triangle. Let that completely dry and then the purpose of layering is to put another color on top of it, but not disturbing the previous layer. You want that previous layer to show through. This triangle layer is finally dry, I'm going to pick up a different color, I'll do this yellow och-re right here and I'll just pick that up right there. Now I've got the color I'm going to go ahead and layer on top of this triangle. The effect that I want is that I want the blue to show underneath the yellow. I'll do a square on top of it. There you go. You can still see that the blue triangle, although the color has been altered since you put yellow on top of it. But now, I have those two layer showing. This is what makes watercolors so unique. This is really great for loose florals because, when you're painting bouquets or just any arrangements like that where there are a lot of things on top of each other or in front of each other or behind each other, you want to create that level of depth. You can only get that by layering. If you can sort of plan it ahead so that you prepaying the furthest back first, and then you paint the foremost areas later, then you'll get this effect. There you have it. We have wet on dry, wet on wet, dry on dry, graded wash, variegated wash and leyering. As part of your project, take a photo of your techniques page and share about which one you like the most or which one you found the most challenging. I look forward to seeing your work. Thanks, bye. 5. Let's Paint: Color Theory and Mixing: Hey everyone and welcome to video 5, where we'll be talking about color theory and mixing. Color is one of the most fundamental basics in painting. In order to understand them better, we're going to go over a couple of terms, paint the color wheel and some swatches. First, we have the hue. The hue or the color just refers to the pure state of paint. Red is red, green is green, etc. Value is the relative darkness or lightness of a color. A tint is created when white is added to a color. Pink is made when you mix red and white. Pink is technically a tint of red. A shade is created when you add black, and a tone is created when you add gray. Just knowing these terms will be helpful throughout the rest of this video as I use them pretty regularly. Most, if not all of us are familiar with the color wheel. In this video, we're going to visualize color theory by creating our own color wheel. We're going to start by painting in the primary colors. Primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. Once you've got your labels ready, let's go ahead and start painting. Again, primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. All of the other colors on this color wheel are going to be derived from these three colors. Next, we have secondary colors. When we mix these primary colors together, we get secondary colors. Those are orange, purple, and green. I'm going to go ahead and start painting these areas in. If you don't have those secondary colors on your palate, you may have to mix them. Here's the red that I used from earlier. Now I'm going to grab some of this yellow and mix it in, try to get about an even amount as possible. It's a little light, so I'm going to add a little bit more red to it. Now there's too much red, so I'm going to go ahead and put some more yellow into it. That's a pretty good orange. I'm going to go ahead and use that and paint that in. Now, I already have a selection of greens, but in order to use my color wheel effectively, I need to mix the blue and the yellow that I used here. Here's the blue that I used earlier. Again, I'm going to grab the yellow. Grab some of that yellow and then mix it into the blues here. Now I'm going to do the same with my purple. I actually do have a purple paint here, but again, I'm going to use the red that I used in the color wheel and the blue in order to make the purple. I'm going to try to mix in this area here. Now the rest of the areas in the color wheel that are left are tertiary colors. Tertiary colors occur when you mix a primary color and a secondary color. The tertiary colors are going to have two color names. Now that this is all labeled, go ahead and mix and fill in the rest of your color wheel. Now, monochromatic scheme is similar to that graded wash that we did in the previous video. It's just a single color that varies in value. Remember, value is the relative darkness or lightness of a color. Analogous colors are colors that are right next to each other on the wheel. One is usually the dominant color. In this scheme, I have the yellow, yellow-orange, and the orange here. I've made my orange the dominant color. Next, let's look at complementary colors. Complementary colors are two colors that are directly opposite one another. Now this can be tricky to use them right next to each other because they will contrast really sharply and it might hurt your eyes a little bit. If you want to use complementary colors, make one color more dominant than the other so that it doesn't strain your eye. For example, red and green would be complementary colors. Blue and orange are complementary colors. Let's go ahead and paint a swatch of that. Then lastly, a triadic scheme are three colors that are equally spaced around the color wheel. If we look at this, the primary colors are a triadic scheme. Red, skip three, yellow, skip three, blue, skip three. Those are perfectly spaced around the color wheel. Knowing about the color wheel is important because oftentimes in floral paintings, you'll be working with one or more of these color schemes. Loose floral painting, doesn't really require sketching. The only planning that really goes into these paintings has to do with colors. I'll demonstrate with some of my paintings. In this leaf, I use a variety of colors, pink, purple, yellows, and greens. You'll notice a complementary color scheme, the yellow and purple. But notice that the yellow is hardly noticeable, whereas the purple is quite strong and pronounced. In this cascading bouquet. I used an analogous theme to keep the eye moving downward without any strain. I tried to keep the greens lighter and on the cool side to transition well into the blue flowers at the bottom. For your project, share a photo of your color wheel and your swatches, share about some of your favorite color schemes, and why they appeal to you. Try to reference the color wheel to explain your reasoning. I look forward to seeing your work.Thanks. 6. Let's Paint: Leaves Part 1: Hey everyone and welcome to video 6, where we'll finally get to paint some loose florals. Will start with leaves, and this is just part 1. Leaves are one of my favorite things to paint, no matter the color, there are so many different shapes and varieties and in these florals, it's less about the details and more about the overall feeling, but we still have to practice and basic observation skills so that we can capture that overall feeling. In this part 1, we're going to look at leaves that are one lobed or smooth. Let's get started. We're going to use some basic brush strokes to achieve our leaf shapes. Let's practice with downstrokes with your size 6 brush, place the tip of your brush on the paper, then push the handle towards you and drag the brush. To create a point lift the brush at the end and drag just the tip. Let's try it with paints. Again, place the tip of your brush on the paper and then pull the handle down and then drag. Here we go, and then lift up to create that point. Now let's practice the upstrokes. The upstroke is basically the same thing as the downstroke, except you'll be moving upwards. Again, place the tip of your brush on the paper and then push away. Now these are some simple one lobed smooth leaves. Now if you want these leaves to be a little bit wider, you can place another stroke right next to it. Let's go ahead and try that. I'm going to use the downstroke. I've got one leaf, and now I'm just going to place another leaf right next to it. I'm going to join the ends so that it looks a little cleaner. I'm going to try it one more time and this time I'm going to leave some white space between the two strokes, so there's one and then there's two, clean up the edges just a little bit. As we're painting these, remember not to use too much water, which is a common mistake. Too much water can leave a dark outline that's not always desired, but if you like that, that's totally okay. Most of the time you want a clean edge like so. For example, the hard edge you can see in these upstrokes and downstrokes here, so too much water and paint pooled here and then it dried leaving a hard edge. Now again, a couple of those is okay by me, but personally I like it to look a little cleaner like this first one here. Now if you want to add some dimension to your leaves while the paint is wet you can punch in some extra color, like that variegated wash that we tried, so why don't we try that? I'm going to use that bright reddish color again. The paint is still a little bit wet, so I'm going to add some of that purple in there. Now these leaves look like they've aged a little bit. Let's try another one with these yellow leaves. I'm going to add some of that orange, it has a nice fall color to it. Next we're going to paint some short wide leaves and we're going to do that by painting what I like to call C-curves. We're going to start with either a downstroke or an upstroke. Next, we'll try painting some leaves with a smooth wavy edge, I call this the S-shape. To do this, you can do a downstroke or an upstroke. Then just glad your paper across like that, then do the same on the other side. Now you can do the same thing without painting the stem first and that's totally okay, or you can just paint a short stem. Again, remember to leave some white space in the middle to give it that dimension and so that your shapes don't look like blobs. Lastly, you can achieve a nice leaf by using only one smooth brushstroke that I like to call it the loop. You're creating almost a teardrop or a raindrop shape. All right, now that we have these basic brush strokes, these are all single leaves, but now let's try painting multiple leaves on one main stem. For your project take a photo of your painted leaves and tell me which one you liked best. If you want to go the extra mile, grab some leaves from your backyard, and then paint them, and then tell me which simple brushstrokes you use to accomplish that. I look forward to see your work. Thanks 7. Let's Paint: Leaves Part 2: Hey everyone, I'm so glad that you're still keeping up with this class. This is part two of painting leaves and in this part we're gonna look at leaves that are multi-lobed or jagged. Let's get started. Before we start painting, I'm just going to sketch a very faint outline of what my leaf is going to look like, just so I can show what it's going to look like. All right. Now I'm just going to grab some paint and first I'm going to paint the stem like so. From here I'm going to do mostly down-strokes or up strokes, depending on how the angle of my hands and paper is to fill in this leaf. Now remember, just keep it loose so if it's not perfect, that's totally okay. That's how you can do a maple leaf. Next, let's try painting some leaves with a jagged edge, like a hydrangea leaf. To paint this leaf we'll use basic down-strokes and upstroke, just like we did for the maple leaf. We'll start by painting one stem and since I'm right-handed, I'm going to start on the left side of the leaf and the method will be very similar to the maple leaf. I'm going to keep my strokes very close to each other and I'm going to let the pointed tip become the jagged edge. There you have it. That is a basic hydrangea leaf. Now if you wanted to go back in there and add some vein details, we're going to grab our size two brush and then I pick up a slightly darker color. Then just lightly just draw some veins if you'd like. Again, this part isn't really necessary because in the loose style, we don't really need these kinds of details. But, we all have our preferences, so if you like that, feel free to add it. For your project, take a photo of your painted leaves and feel free to experiment with different shapes too. Just like the previous video, leaves Part 1, feel free to grab some leaves from your backyard, paint them using different techniques and then share which techniques you use. I'd love to see your work. Thanks. 8. Let's Paint: Various Flowers: Hey everyone. I'm super excited because in this video we're going to start painting flowers. The best part of loose florals is that you don't need a lot of details. The simplest brush strokes can be interpreted as a number of different flowers. Today we're going to use those simple brush strokes to pay tulips, dahlias, cherry blossoms, anemones, poppies, etc. I hope you're excited. Let's get started. For the sunflower or daisy, we're going to use just basic downstrokes and upstrokes and may be a couple of loops to create our flower. I'm going to pretend that I'm looking at the flower from a profile. The pedals down this way of the center are going to be bigger and the ones above the center will be smaller. Again, if I imagine that there is a center here, I'm just going to use a couple of downstrokes. Now, the tulip is one of my favorite flowers. I'm going to use a bright red color. Bright reddish, orangeish color. We're going to use just a couple of basic strokes to make that happen. I'm going to paint a tulip that is still closed. I'm going to paint one thick petal like that. Then I'm going to wash out my brush, and then quickly go over this, and then drag out that original petal color so that I can create a nice washed effect. Then I'm going to do the same on the other side. I drag that color out. You see how it's bleeding in right there. That's what I want. Then if you want to paint a stem, you can carefully touch the bottom of the flower so that the green bleeds in like that. That's just a varied S-shape. Dahlias are also very complex flowers. But if you break it down into its simple shapes, it's basically a bunch of loops, and the color is really where it's at. I'm going to paint a purple Dahlia. I'm going to start with very small strokes around this center and they're going to be the darkest. Then as I move outward, I'm going to make it lighter, which means I'm going to wash out my brush. The anemone is a really beautiful flower because it has a very dark center. I'm going to keep the petals really light, so that we can show that nice contrast. Now, for the anemone, we're going to use C curves. If you remember those, it's literally just a C. Again, I'm going to leave the center blank and it's going to paint around. There's just a wide C curve. Now, the center you can add in later because I don't want the black to bleed too much. I'm going to let that dry and we'll come back to it. For the poppy, we're going to use S curves. We're going to use a couple of thick S curves like that, and then punch in the dark red. Now, for the poppy, I do want the black to bleed in. I'm going to go ahead and add that right now. Then let that bleed into that red. Then begin the stem. Now that my anemone is pretty dry, I'm going to grab my size toothbrush, pick up some black. Just using some basic brush strokes, we were able to paint a sunflower, a tulip, a dahlia, an anemone, and a poppy. Let's try to put some of these elements together. For your project, choose one or two of your favorite flowers and break it down to its simplest forms and shapes. Then try painting the flour using the basic brushstrokes. Take a photo of that painting and share which brushstrokes you used. I'd love to see your work. Thanks. 9. Let's Paint: Roses: Hey everyone. This is part 2, painting flowers. Although tulips are my favorite flower, I can't deny that Roses are one of the most beautiful flowers. I'm excited to dive in in this video and show you how to paint these gorgeous beauties. Let's get started. With your size six brush, we're going to grab some paint. I'm going to just use a bright red color so that you can see what I'm doing, and we're going to use this bright color to make the center of our rose. Make a couple of strokes. Wash out your brush a little bit. We're going to drag some of that color out and we're going to paint C curves. We're going to start small and then I'll paint another one. Remember, just a couple of strokes in the center. You can make the center as small or as large as you want it. Just know that the larger the center is, the larger your overall rows is going to be. Now, if you wanted to paint a rose that you were looking at from this side, it would still be similar, except this time you're going to paint smaller C-curves off to one side, and larger C curve to the other. I'm going to start my center, not parallel to these, but a little bit higher. Again, just some basic strokes, and that's how you paint the rose. For your project, paint a couple of different colored roses and their leaves and take a photo of it. Feel free to ask any questions or share insight as you practice painting them. I look forward to seeing your work. Thanks. 10. Let's Paint: Peonies: Hey everyone. This is part three in painting florals and it's going to be all about peonies. These ornate, complex flowers can be really tricky to paint. But in the loose floral style, remember it's about the overall feel. We're going to paint them in just a handful of strokes. Ready to get started? Let's go. The peony is a really complex flower, so depending on how you look at it, you're going to be painting it in different ways. But we're still going to use the same strokes to paint our peonies. In this video, I'll show you three different ways. The first way, is as if we're looking at it straight on. I'm going to grab some light pink. I'm going to create two petals right next to each other, just like that. I'm going to wash out my brush and then paint some side pedals in a wider sea. We'll come back and add the details later. For the second way with our side six brush, we're going to paint a curved V-shape, like that. Then add some smaller strokes and dots. This will be the center of our peony. It's almost as if we're looking into the peony from the side. We're going to wash out some of the paint and then paint a scalloped edge just below it. Like so. Then I'm going to quickly get in there with some paint to show that this is another layer of petals. For the last way, we are going to look at the peony as if it's half-closed and half open. I'm going to lightly draw a couple of petals and then quickly get in there and then punch in some color. Now that my peonies are done, I'm going to go in there and add some smaller details. I'm going to pick up some yellow ocher, and there you have it. Three different ways to paint the peony. For your project, I'd love to see a photo of your paintings. Feel free to share any tips or insight or ask questions. I look forward to seeing your work.Thanks. 11. Let's Paint: Putting it All Together: Hey everyone, if you can believe it, we are almost done with this class. The watercolor loose florals bouquet class. In this video, I'm going to show you a couple of time lapses of me painting the bouquets. As you practice painting your own watercolor loose flora bouquet, don't be afraid to try out different shapes, to experiment with different colors, maybe even the metallic colors. I hope these time lapses are fun to watch and inspirational. I can't wait to see your bouquets. Don't forget to share them on your project. Thanks. 12. Concluding Thoughts: Hey everyone, it's Adria again. Thanks again for watching. I hope you had a lot of fun in my first skill sharing class where you got to learn how to paint watercolor, loose floral bouquets. Before we end this class, I just have three words of encouragement and advice, and I hope it is helpful as you continue in the world of watercolors. The first is just to be observant. What we paint is what we see, and as long as we are seeing and experiencing, then we will continue to create awesome art. The second piece of advice is just to keep it loose. I know it sounds cliche, but watercolor is unpredictable even for the skilled expert. As you paint and create, if you notice that the watercolor is behaving differently or not behaving the way that you thought it was going to, it's okay, just try to go with the flow. Just keep it loose, keep your risk loose, let the brush glide across the paper, let the water pour, let the paint bleed, and all of those things will turn into a remarkable watercolor painting. The last piece of advice I have is really just practice. All those time-lapse videos that you might watch, all those cool gifts that you might see, they're not possible without hours and hours and hours of practice. Some of these painting took me at least an hour or two to create, but I've shortened it into a span of 20 to 30 seconds. It's very misleading, so don't be afraid if things are taking you a long time or if it just doesn't seem to be coming together. Those roses, [inaudible] , and flowers, I had to make at least a dozen to 15 of them before I put them on to video. Even I have to practice a lot too. Just practice, especially if you have a small water color pan set, it's easy to take it on the go. You might find yourself painting at Starbucks or you might find yourself painting in your backyard or at the nearest park. Wherever it is, try to find that time and make time to paint. That's it from me. Again, thank you so much for taking my class and I hope to hear from you and hear any suggestions you might have for future classes. Thanks again for watching. Until next time.