How to Make a Minimal Leather Valet Tray | Timothy Ung | Skillshare

How to Make a Minimal Leather Valet Tray

Timothy Ung, Architect | Designer | Maker

How to Make a Minimal Leather Valet Tray

Timothy Ung, Architect | Designer | Maker

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14 Lessons (46m)
    • 1. Intro to the Leather Valet Tray Project

    • 2. What are the different types of leather?

    • 3. What are the different leather tanning processes?

    • 4. Leatherworking Tools

    • 5. Tracing the Pattern onto the Leather

    • 6. Cutting the Leather

    • 7. Finishing the cut

    • 8. Locating and Punching Holes

    • 9. Beveling the Edges

    • 10. Sanding the Edges

    • 11. Burnishing the Edges

    • 12. Optional - Engraving A Graphic Onto the Surface

    • 13. Setting the Rivets

    • 14. Conclusion

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About This Class

In this Skillshare course, I’ll take you step by step through my leatherworking process to make a minimal leather valet tray from scratch. That’s not all. To ensure that you get the most out of the course, I’ll also explain the popular leather types, the different leather tanning processes, go over each tool that we’ll be using, and show you exactly how I would use them to create this beautiful product!

When you're done with the project, don't forget to leave me a review! I'd love to know what you thought!

Meet Your Teacher

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Timothy Ung

Architect | Designer | Maker


Hi there! I'm Tim Ung, an architect, designer, and maker with a background in leatherworking. I have a passion for handmade crafts and I want to share my process of designing and making products with you.

You can also find me on YouTube at Tim Ung and see behind the scenes of my process designing and making products from different materials.

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1. Intro to the Leather Valet Tray Project: Hey, what's up, everyone? Tell me or from lung studio. And today I'm going to be showing you how to make a simple letter of LA tray using basic leather working tools. In this course, we're going to start off by talking about the different types of leather from full grain leather. It's a top grain leather and the type that you never want to use for your project, which is genuine leather. We'll talk about that more in that section of this course after that. And we'll talk about the different tanning processes and how they affect the quality of your product. Then we'll go over the basic tools that we're going to need for this project which any beginner can use. After that, we'll start to tool the leather and shape it and turn it into the beautiful simple leather valet tray. So with that, let's get started with today's project. 2. What are the different types of leather?: When we talk about the differences in quality of leather that's out there, there's one important thing that you always need to keep in mind, and that is this skin layer. The skin layer is the most important part of any of the other hide because the skin layer is what determines the durability of that leather, and also it's what determines the beauty of it. When any piece of leather goes through the manufacturing process of taking the animal's hide and turning it into the final product that we use as material. That entire process typically focuses on two things. The first thing it does is it splits that actual hide and it removes some of the flesh side, and it removes some of the imperfections from the skin side. What do you think of any animal? Most animals have things like hair, bug bites, scars, and things like that. So when it goes through this manufacturing process, what actually happens is a lot of the hair, the skin, and all of that gets buffed and snuffed out so that it removes some of that imperfection, which leaves you with three types of leather. The first type, which is the highest quality, is going to be full grain leather. When you think about full grain leather, it has a lot more of the skin layer is still intact. And typically it'll reveal things like ANY scars on the animal, any fad wrinkles, anything that you would have seen on the animal's hide itself. In which case, full grain leather is typically the most durable leather that's out there. And because it's the most durable, is generally used for things like gun holes Thursday, and it's also used for saddles on horses and other things that need to last a long time. Then you get into the luxury level of leather, which is top grain leather. This here is an example of top grain leather. The reason why this here is top grain leather is because it's been Buffon snuff so much that it actually smooth out the entire surface of the skin. By doing that, it actually removed a lot of the imperfections. But in this case here, this particular leather that I have still shows off all of the fat wrinkles and some of the scars on the animal, which I personally love. The other thing is the opposite side of this letter is what's referred to as the flesh side. When you start getting into quality leather, you'll see that the flesh side on this particular product is actually very tight. You can actually find some which typically comes from the belly of the animal, which is the belly of the, of the hide that you can buy. You will see that the flesh side might actually be loose fibers. This here is from the shoulder, so everything is tighter because it was from the shoulders of the animal. Once I flipped this around, this is the skin layer that I was referring to and is skin layer has a really beautiful finish that the manufacturer put onto it. The last type of leather that I typically never recommend anyone used is called genuine leather. What genuine leather is, is that when a manufacturer it takes any raw material and puts it through their manufacturing process, what typically happens is they'll take the flesh side here of the hides and it'll split the flesh side off. All of that flesh just kinda crumbles and falls apart and flakes apart. They'll take that, turn it into some kind of mulch, put it into a bin, and roll it with a type of adhesive that'll actually adhere all of it together. Then it'll flatten it out and roll it out onto a big bed. Once that happens, they put on a faux finish on the top, which is typically made of materials like plastics and other things that will make it look like leather, but it's not actually leather. The only reason why it is leather is because it has that flesh layer on the bottom side of whatever they stamped on top. So whenever we talk about the different quality of leather that's out there, leather workers typically focus on using two kinds. That's full grain leather and top grain leather. Personally, I love using full grain leather for big projects that need more their ability and for the ones that I really like to show off the imperfections into Hyde. When I use top grain leather, I always use it for luxury kind of goods, things like wallets, bags, purses, anything like that. Where what you're looking for is more of the aesthetics. The differences between full grain leather and top grain leather really focus on durability in my perspective. So now let's jump into the different tanning processes of leather and how they affect the final product that you come up with. 3. What are the different leather tanning processes?: When we talk about the different tanning processes of leather and how they affect the final quality of the products that we're making by hand as leather workers, there are two types that we often talk about. The first type is Chrome ten leather, and a second type is vegetable ten leather. Before we jump into the differences between these two types, let's start off by talking about the process and what tanning actually means. Tanning leather is something that the manufacturer does. They'll take the raw leather hides, put them into a gigantic Tumblr, and then they'll fill that Tumblr with a bunch of different ingredients that includes liquids and some solids, powders and things like that. Once they do that, they tumbled that leather for a long period of time. By doing this, it actually preserves the leather because it embeds all of those ingredients into the leather hide. And then the leather hide will last a long period of time. So the differences now between Chrome ten leather and vegetable tanned leather. Chrome ten leather uses chromium as one of the primary ingredients during the tumbling process. Chromium is bad for the environment and bad for your health, however, and, uh, processes for turning the leather into a more preserve the material, it speeds up the process and allows the manufacturer to actually complete a majority of their tanning, of all of their law, their hides in a shorter duration of time. And by doing that, they then are able to then take that leather hide and diet and turn it into something beautiful. So for example, this brown leather here is Chrome ten leather and it has a really beautiful finish, so it doesn't affect the finish. What happens though is that when the manufacturer uses chromium, It actually turns the other hides blue. That's why typically when you find Chrome tanned leather, you'll find that the Chrome tanned leather always comes in some kind of color. When we move into vegetable ten leather, the tumbling process actually introduces natural ingredients like tree bark and other things. Because of that, it needs to tumble for a long period of time in order to complete the process that time, because it takes so long, increases the quality of that product and it actually turns it into a very luxury level product at the end. So with that in mind, vegetable tanned leather typically comes in a very natural color. It will come in a color that's either a beige, white, a slightly brown, a little bit orange, or a color like that. The beautiful thing about using raw vegetable tanned leather in any project is that when the user has this product and they use it for a long duration of time, it actually starts to patina. What that means is because it doesn't have any dies in it or any preservatives in it, it will actually begin to change color. So that beautiful beige color will start to turn into a brown color over time because of the oils on your skin. The more you touched a product and use it for a long duration of time, the more it starts to change based on how often you're touching it and using it and how often it's actually oxidizing. So what that means is vegetable tanned leather, because of the amount of time it takes to tumble, will actually be a higher quality product than Chrome tanned leather. The other thing to keep in mind is that vegetable tanned leather will typically come in. It's raw condition with a beautiful white, beige, brownish, or orangeish color. The reason for that is in its raw form, it's based on all of the different ingredients that were tumbling with it. When you get it in that color and you decide to use it without finishing it are dying the leather over time, it will actually get a really beautiful patina. That means if someone's using a wallet, for example, that is vegetable tanned leather without any dies in it. Over time, that actual color of the wallet itself will start turning into a darker brown because the oils under skin makes contact with the actual surface of the vegetable tanned leather and it starts to get embedded into the surface. When that happens, you end up with a really beautiful product that reflects you as the user. And that to me, is one of the beautiful aspects of using vegetable tanned leather. Now you can buy either Chrome tanned leather or vegetable ten leather from any manufacturer that sources leather materials. And typically you can get them all ready died Chrome tanned leather will always come died at some level. And when you get vegetable tanned leather, you can actually get it with a really beautiful died finish as well. So when you're looking for a superior quality product, using fetch tanned leather opens opportunities for you in getting this superior level of leather. Now the last thing that I wanted to mention about the differences between Chrome tanned leather and vegetarian leather is that when you're using Chrome ten leather, you can't laser cut or engrave it because typically the chromium that's within the actual leather itself now will release into the air, which is bad for your health. However, vegetarian leather doesn't have any negative ingredients embedded into it. So what that means is that if you own a laser cutter of some kind, you can actually take that leather hide, put it into your laser cutter, and laser cut any shape that you want. And it won't be bad for your health because it's not releasing any bad chemicals. I'll show you later in this course how you can optionally choose to use a laser cutter to engrave a beautiful graphic onto the surface of this leather valet tray, which will add another layer of complexity and beauty to your product. Now with that, let's jump into the first part of this course where we'll talk about the different tools and materials that we're using to make this simple leather valet tray. 4. Leatherworking Tools: To make this simple leather of LA tray, let's start off by talking about the type of leather that I've chosen to use for this project. For today's project, I chose to use this really beautiful top grain brown leather. It has a really beautiful sheen to it because it was buff, snuffed and unfinished. So from the manufacturer, this is exactly what the weather looks like. The backside of it as this really beautiful tight flesh. What that means is that the flesh doesn't flake apart when I run my hands over it. Sometimes when you're buying the belly side of a leather Hide, you'll get another hide that'll flake apart very quickly when you run your hands over it. I actually don't want that because I don't want this to leave a mess wherever I'm putting my leather valet tray. The other thing to keep in mind is that I actually want the flesh side of this to be on the outside of the leather Valley tray. The reason why I want that is because I want the flesh side to help with any gripping on surfaces. And I also wanna make sure that this beautiful side of the leather, which is the skin side, is actually the side that shows upward so that anyone looking at this could see it and really admired the beauty and the product. So now let's jump into all of the different tools that I'll be using for this project. Let's start off by talking about the template. This here is a template that I prototype that's made out of wood. You can actually purchase one of these templates on Etsy, how the share a link where you can purchase one made out of blue acrylic. The other tools that I'll be using starting with the knives, is going to be this utility knife for cutting all of this trade edges of this template, which means this edge up here, this edge down here, and this edge right here. The corners of this template which is rounded, is actually going to be cut using this exact DO knife, which has a really fine point on it, because it has that fine point. It's extremely sharp, but it allows you to get in and actually cut a really beautiful rounded edge like this here on the template with those two knives in hand. The other thing that I'm going to be using for cutting anything out of the letter is going to be this rotary punch tool here. The rotary punch tool will create the holes that we're going to be using. And you can kind of see it in this template right here. Those holes are going to be punched out so that we can install rivets in order to locate the holes and to also locate all of the edges of this template here, I'm going to be using this scratch all. What the scratch all does is it allows me to put this template onto my piece of leather and actually trace it out and then put it through the holes that are on here and poke a hole onto the surface of the leather so that I can come back in with my knives or with my rotary punch and cut out any parts of the letter that I need to get to. You can also do what I'm going to be doing, which is taking the knives and actually cutting by using this as your guide. Then I'll only be using the Scratch all to help me Mark the curved edges. Because if this template moves, I want to make sure that I had exactly where this template was located, marked onto my piece of leather. And then I'm going to use a scratch all. Just to locate all the holes because I want to make sure that they're in the exact spots. After that, we're going to be using a bunch of rivets. The rivets actually looked like this. And the rivets are really good to be used in any project like this because they hold very tightly together. So they'll hold all of the pieces exactly where we want them to leak, to install the rivets were actually going to be using these two tools here. This anvil comes with this punch tool here. And when you're using this punch tool, it's really important to make sure that you run your finger over the edges to find where is the actual div ID is in the edge. One side is typically flat and you don't want to use the flat side, that's actually the backside of the punch. The other side here has a little Devitt and what that David is meant for is still that the rivet itself can actually be held in place in that little indent. That'll actually protect the head of the rivet to maintain the beautiful shape that it's in. In order to install those rivets using the anvil end up punching iron, we're going to be using this nylon head hammer here, which is a common tool that most leather workers have. This is used for everything in leather working from punching holes through the leather or for using the anvil and other things like that. So once we get all of that out of the way and the leather is ready for the rivets to go on. I typically like to finish the edges first. To do that, I have my own set of tools that I love to use. The first thing is this edge Bevel, or I'm using a number two edge bestseller, which will help you chant for the edges and give it this really nice bevel. Once you get that, I actually have some sandpaper that I'll be using. The sandpaper is good for then smoothing out and rounding the actual corners of the entire piece of leather. Once you have that rounded ident, take some token URL, which is a really nice finishing agent. I put it onto the edge and then I take this tool here, which is a wood burnishing tool, and I burnish the edges of the leather by running the beveling tool over it. By doing that, it gives it this really beautiful machine and a really beautiful finished that'll actually keep all the fibers down in place and make the product really beautiful. And it actually showcases the handmade quality of the product itself. So make sure that you start investing time in learning how to finish the edges of your product and turning it into that finalized product itself. The last thing I'm going to be using with the token URL after using the burnishing agent with this burnishing tool is I'm going to put a little bit more of the token old burnishing agent onto the edges of the other valet tray. Then I'm going to take this here, which is a canvas cloth, and I'm going to run it as quick as I could over the edges without putting too much pressure down. And that'll give it that really beautiful machine. The last tool that I'll talk about that I typically have everywhere with me in my craft station is going to be two things. The first is a really big cutting mat, which is this black cutting mat here, I like to have a 24 by 36, that minimum. Typically I like to have a 36 inch by 48 inch cutting surface because I need that space to lay my leather down and actually cut it without damaging my table. The other thing I always have as a metal ruler, sometimes if your template moves or if you don't want to use the template itself as a guide because you're afraid of damaging the template and you're using the Scratch all to mark out the actual shape of it. You can then come back in with a metal ruler like this that has a cork backing on it. And you can hold it down against the leather and use it as your guide for your knife, it's important to use a metal ruler because if you use any other kind of ruler like wood or plastic, you're probably going to break it or damage it, or you might even cut yourself. So make sure that you are using a metal ruler if you're using it as a guide to cut anything. Now with that, let's jump into using this template as a guide to cutting out the shape that we need from this leather hide. 5. Tracing the Pattern onto the Leather: The first step to making this simple leather valet tray is to take that template that I was showing you earlier and find a spot on a piece of leather that you really like. There might be an area that has GFS on it, there might be an area that has scars on it. There might be an area that just as visually interesting to you, or if you're just using a plane really well finished piece of leather that's similar throughout. Just find a spot where you really want to cut out your leather valet tray from. I found a spot here that has a little bit of the scars from the animal, a little bit of stuffs here and there. So it adds the imperfection that I personally like. After I place this template down, I'm going to show you how I would use the Scratch URL to outline the entire template and then using my two different knives, cutting the template out. And then from there we'll move into the next step together. So now that I have this leather valet tray in a spot that I really like, I'm going to use this gradual to start tracing out the entire valley tray. And want to be careful here because they don't want to go and trace it incorrectly. I wanted to make sure that I get everything from this template onto this piece of leather. And it's important to press down so that you actually make an imprint in scratch off some of the surface of that piece of leather. Right now I'm almost all the way through what this gradual. 6. Cutting the Leather: Now that I've traced out the entire template onto the piece of leather using my scratch all, I'm going to move into cutting all of the straight edges using this utility knife. And then I'll go in and I'll cut all of the corners using this exact DO knife. The reason why I wanted to trace everything out is in case the template moves out of place so that I can realign exactly where the template needed to be. But I'll be tracing the curved corners what this exact or knife just to make sure that I have a perfect corner cut out. So let's jump into that and I'll show you how I would do it. Now here you can see I'm just about halfway through with cutting all of the straight edges out. But even now while I'm cutting these straight edges and being very careful to make sure that I'm holding down to template exactly where it is. 7. Finishing the cut: So I just finished going around the entire template, making sure that I cut out as best as I could, all of the leather around the perimeter of the template. There might still be areas where it might have not cut all the way through and we're going to find that out now by lifting off the template, taking it off the board, and actually seeing if we can peel out this entire thing. If not, you'll see that there are areas that did cut all the way through, but there are also areas that didn't. Now this is our opportunity to go back in with our exact ONE knife and make sure that we cut out the entire templates that we have it on this piece of leather. So I'm going to do that now and show you how I would finish cutting through this entire piece of leather. They need to. 8. Locating and Punching Holes: Now that we have the leather valet tray cut out of the piece of leather using that template. The next step is to realign the template onto that piece of leather, makes sure that all of the perimeter is completely aligned. Take our scratch Hall and poke a hole through all of the holes on the leather valet trade template so that we can use those holes help us locate where all the rivets needs to be installed. How show you how I would use this gradual to locate all of those holes. And then I'll show you how I would use this rotary punch to help me punch all the holes out for the rivets that I'm going to install when you're ready to use the rotary punch, just make sure you're selecting the correct size that works with the rivet that you purchase, the net you're using for this project. So now let me show you how I would do both of those steps. 9. Beveling the Edges: Now that we have all of the holes punched out for where the rivets will be installed. The next step is to take this number two edge bachelor and bevel the edges around the entire perimeter of the skin side of the leather. This will be the first step to finishing the entire edge perimeter and in the next step will be sending it down. Let me show you how I would use this edge Butler to bevel the entire edges. And then I'll move into the next step where I'll show you how to sand it down to get it to a rounded profile. So the way that I use this edge bubbler is that I take it and what I do is I hold it down against the corner and I hold it at about a 45-degree angle. Once it's in place, I press down and I start to push from one corner all the way to the other. So I'll show you how that looks now and then I'll show you how I would finish the entire edge using this edge bubbler. For the corner here. What I'd like to do is I like to take my time going around a corner and sometimes you have to do it in little sections. Or you can start to go and you can try and turn this entire piece of leather or work around it with your hand and actually follow that curve. But it's fine if you need to go and little chunks. And then eventually when we come back and sanded, you can smooth it all out. 10. Sanding the Edges: Now that I've beveled all of the edges around the perimeter of this leather valet tray. The next step is take this sand paper that I have. I actually I'm using two different grits. This one here is 150 and this one here is 220. I'm going to use the 150 to help me smooth down the entire edge here to give it a rounded profile. Right now you can see that there is a champ for here that's a perfect 45-degree and all I wanna do is around it so that the entire thing comes together and it's actually a round profile. What that'll help us do is when we move into the next step of using this burnishing tool that will help us fit the Edge within one of these grooves cell burnish the edge and give it a really nice finish. So let's move into that step now where we're going to be taking this 150 grit sandpaper and sanding down the edges and coming back in with this 220 grit sandpaper to finish off that rounded profile. Two 11. Burnishing the Edges: Now that we have the edges of the leather valet tray beveled and sanded. The next step is to finish the edge using a burnishing agent like Tolkien OL, and using this burnishing piece of wood. The way that we're going to do it is we're going to take some of the Tolkien OL and apply it directly to the edge of this letter valet tray. Once it's on the edge and it's evenly spread out. Well, wait a second or so for it to start to get a little bit tacky. Once it dries and gets slightly tacky, will take this burnishing tool, run it inside of the piece of leather here, and find the right groove that fits it. And it will go back and forth without pressing too hard onto the piece of leather. And we'll go back and forth and back and forth until that burnishing agents starts to solidify and create a nice, beautiful machine on that edge. Once we finish this first pass, will come back around again, apply a little bit more of this token, old burnishing agent onto the edges. Let it get a little bit tacky. And then we'll take this canvas cloth to really finish the edge and give it a nice sheen by just running over the edge with it and going back and forth until that entire burnishing agent is spread evenly and is shiny. So let me show you how I would do that and then we'll move into the next step of the project afterwards. So personally, I actually like using my finger to apply the token null onto the edges here, I'll typically take a little drop of it like this. And then I carefully just align it on the edge and run it right across. Once I do that, I rub it in a little bit and then I get some more And I just repeat this process until it's done. Now that I've applied the token old burnishing agent on all of the edges going around this entire leather valet tray and wanted to take this burnishing tool. And I'm going to use this groove here. It's actually insert that piece of leather and I'm going to run it back and forth until I feel like that tacky ness is starting to spread and it's evenly distributed throughout. Once I'm done with that, I'll come back through the token all again and, and I'll be using this canvas cloth like I talked about earlier. I just finished using the word burnishing tool to burnish in the first layer of Tolkien old burnishing agent onto the edge of this leather valet tray. The next step now is to take this canvas cloth and to actually do the same thing that we were just doing with the burnishing tool. And instead, we're going to hold this at the edge and we're going to move back and forth with it and do it lightly so that you're not crushing the edge in. But as you're doing that, you'll start to notice that the actual edge here, we'll start to get really glossy and beautiful. So let me show you how that looks now and the time lapse. And then we'll come back and I'll tell you what the next step of this project is. No. 12. Optional - Engraving A Graphic Onto the Surface: Now that we finished the edges of this letter valet tray, then next step is an optional one, but it's one that I personally loved to do its personalizing the skin layer of the valet tray. There are a few ways of doing this, but the way that I personally love to do it is to engrave it using a laser cutter or a laser engraver. Personally, I use one called glow forge. Full forages are really great company and a way that the interface works, it's really intuitive for anyone like your eye to just drop a graphic in there and have it engraved that pattern onto the surface of this valet tray. So to show you what that looks like, I'm actually going to show you an earlier version of this valley tray that I made where I took a Mandela that I hand drew and had it engraved onto the surface of this leather valet tray. Now if you're interested in purchasing a glow forage laser cutter for yourself so that you can engrave a custom graphic onto your leather projects. Make your way over to the resources section of this course and download the information null guide where you'll get access to all the tools and materials that we talked about in this course, as well as a link to purchase a glow forge where you can get a discount of up to $250 off of a glow 4j plus or $500 off of a glow forge Pro. Remember this step here is an optional one. So if you're not interested in putting any engravings onto the surface of your leather, you can skip this step and move on to the next one. Hello. 13. Setting the Rivets: To finish this leather valet tray, the last step here is going to be installing the rivets. To do that, we need the male and female ends, which are the rivets themselves. For this one, I'm going to be using nickel plated rivets. And then we're going to need the envelope and the punch. Remember, for the envelope, you want to find the right size hole, especially if you have an envelope like this one that has four different holes on it. For this particular one, what I'll do is I'll take one of the rivets that I have. I'll hold it in my hand and I'll put it into the one that fits best. I can see that putting it into first one, it fits perfectly, but it actually has a little bit of extra space on derivate, so it goes over the edge. I don't want to use that one because if I use that one and I hit it incorrectly, are hit it too hard and might actually crushed the edges of the rivet itself. So instead I'm going to use it in second one over from the, from this side here. So the second one gives it a little bit of wiggle room. But the way that these are shaped will allow that mushroom cap shaped to actually fit within it perfectly. And then what I'll do is I'll take this end here, stick it through the actual leather, and then I'll take the cap and put the cap on. And what you do is you take the curved portion of your punch ten, you have to feel for it because one side is going to be flat and the other side will have this curve. And you want to take that curve and you want to get it right onto the cap of that rivet. And you wanna make sure that you're making contact between that curves portion here and a curved portion of the mushroom cap shape of the rivet. I'm going to show you that in the next step or I'll zoom in and show you what it actually looks like. We're also going to use this nylon mallets so that we can take the mallet and actually hit that flat end when we're ready to knock the rivets into place. So now let me show you what that step looks like. So the first step here is to take this rivet that has the long end on one side. Once you have this piece here, you want to take your valet tray and you actually want to fold it so that this tab here goes behind this piece here. So we're going to take it and actually fold it so that it looks like this. Once you have this shape here, we're going to stick that rivet through so that it's all the way through from one end to the other. So now you can see that the rivet is in place. And what you're going to do from here is take the other end of the rivet and you're going to cap it on that other side. Once it's in place, you can hear that it's snapped in just a little bit. So now I'm going to take the anvil, I'm going to place that rivet here into this part of the envelope. And once it's in place, I'll take the rounded edge which is right here of the punch. And I'll put it right on there, hold it in place, and then make sure that it's on in the correct spot. And once I'm satisfied with it, I'll take my mallet and now not the end of it so that I can hit that into place. And so now let's check that it's tight. So now that that rivet is in place, I can feel around and it actually feels like it's holding a really tightly in place. So there's leather valet tray is quickly coming together now. So now we want to repeat this process at all four corners. So now I'm going to flip it over, grabbed this corner here. And I'm going to do the same thing where I fold this piece up and I fold this curved smaller corner behind. And then I'm going to take another rivet and I'm willing to stick the rivet through. And now you can see I've got the rivet in place with the end sticking out. And now you take your next rivet cap and you cap it off and push it on. Once it's on there, you bring it back to the anvil. You place it on there. Make sure it's in place. Grabbed the punch, find that n that's curved. Put it right on there. Hold it in place, Hold it tight. Bring over your millet and hidden place. And then you repeat that process again. But first, I always like to check and make sure that it's in place and note it's held tightly. That's perfect. So now let's finish this project up. The other trick that I really like to use here is that you can take this rivet, stick it in to that first piece that's on the inside. Grab that second piece here, go behind and just stick it through the hole so that it holds itself in place. When you're working with five ounce thick pieces of leather, sometimes it'll get harder for you to hold it in place, especially for me right now while I'm talking to the camera and trying to get the right perspective. But this is the best way of doing it that I found because it really helps you align things and easily get them into place. So now let's just cap that off and use the Engel again. Now let's check that one. Looks good. And now let's finish this project up with the last rebut. So I'll grab the rivet again, put it right through there, bring this piece folded behind. And then I'll stick it through. I'll grab this piece here, cap it on there, put it on to that second hole of the n, will grab the punch. Make sure that the right end is on the top. And now let's knock this one into place. And with that, we've got a really beautiful brown leather valet tray. 14. Conclusion: Now that the rivets are installed for this leather valet tray, we're essentially done with the project. However, for me, since I use a stiff leather, I'm actually going to have to go one extra step here because you can see that it's trying to unfold here. Because it's trying to unfold because of that stiffness pulling it out this way, it actually looks kinda flat. So for me, I'm actually going to take one edge at a time and fold it inward and press down kinda like you're trying to fold a piece of paper over. Once you do that, you'll actually see some creases show up on the inside here. That isn't a bad thing to me because I wanna make sure that as a valet tray, this we'll be able to hold anything that you put inside of it. So now you can see I've already done one corner. Now that's another one. And this one here is done. And this one here has just about done. So now this valley tray has taken on more of a square shape instead of that oval where it was trying to appeal itself apart. Now that this is complete, that's essentially the simple leather valet tray project. I hope you enjoyed this skill share course. And if you did, please remember to leave me a review and let me know what you thought about it and also let me know what projects you want to see made out of leather in the future. Don't forget to check out my YouTube channel. I'm at Tim on YouTube and share your completed projects with me on Instagram at Tim underscore. And also, if you're interested in learning how to make a five pocket minimal leather wallet, which is a little more difficult than making this simple leather valet trade. Don't forget to check out my other course here on skill share, where I'll take you step-by-step from choosing the right letter to finishing your five pocket minimal leather wallet. With that, I really hope you enjoyed this course. Don't forget to leave me a review and I hope to see you next time. Thank you again.