How to Make a 5 Pocket Minimal Leather Wallet | Timothy Ung | Skillshare

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How to Make a 5 Pocket Minimal Leather Wallet

teacher avatar Timothy Ung, Architect | Designer | Maker

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

13 Lessons (1h 14m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Leather Tan Types

    • 3. Leather Quality

    • 4. Choosing your Leather

    • 5. Essential Leather Working Tools

    • 6. Cutting the Leather Pieces

    • 7. Gluing the Leather Pieces

    • 8. Straightening the Edges

    • 9. Beveling and Sanding the Edges

    • 10. Guiding and Punching Stitching Holes

    • 11. Saddle Stitching

    • 12. Burnishing and Finishing the Edges

    • 13. Conclusion

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About This Class


One of the most popular leather products to make and sell are handmade 5 pocket minimal leather wallets. Although they appear to be very simple to make, these leather wallets take a lot of time, effort, and care to get a high quality product. Leather working also requires an essential set of tools to plan, cut, tool, and finish the product, which can often be intimidating for people getting into leather working for the first time.

In this Skillshare course, we’ll go over all of the basic information that you need to get started with leatherworking. From the different types of leather that you can buy to all of the tools that we’ll need to make any leather product. We’ll go over what each tool is used for and I’ll demonstrate how they’re used as we make this 5 pocket minimal leather wallet together. As we go step by step through this course together, I’ll take you through each stage of creating the product and share tips and tricks that I've picked up during my time making leather products by hand.

I hope you enjoy this course and share your success along the way!

P.S.: All of the tools, materials, and the template for the product can be found in the attached file and in a kit that I assembled for this course. Check it out using this link.

Meet Your Teacher

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Timothy Ung

Architect | Designer | Maker


Hi there! I'm Tim Ung, an architect, designer, and maker with a background in leatherworking. I have a passion for handmade crafts and I want to share my process of designing and making products with you.

You can also find me on YouTube at Tim Ung and see behind the scenes of my process designing and making products from different materials.

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1. Introduction: What's up, everyone Tim here for among studio and today I'm going to be showing you how I make this five pocket minimal leather wallet for this particular course that we're going to get into . You're going to learn about leather working from choosing the right type of leather, learning the differences between chrome 10 and veg tanned leather, which is vegetable 10 and the different quality of leather that's out there now. Things like the full grain leather and the differences between that and top grain mother as well as genuine other genuine leather is something we all hear the name of. And we all seem to think is the highest quality leather. It's really not, so I'll tell you all about it, and we'll get into that later on in the skill share. Of course, I'll also be going through all of the essential tools that you'll need. Some of them are basic tools. Some of them are tools that you'll eventually operate to if you really love to let it work , and then we'll get into the leather working basics from using a pattern to cut out your leather to straining the edges after everything is glued together and then beveling the edge and sanding it down. So you get a nice finish. Then we'll talk about punching the stitching holes, saddle stitching by hand and also burnishing the edge to give it a very nice finish. By the end of this course, you will be able to create this five pocket, minimal leather wallet and other leather products like it. When you get through this entire course, you'll eventually get into leather working so much that you'll be able to come up with your own products like this one and use all the skills that you learn to create, so let's get started. 2. Leather Tan Types: the first thing we'll talk about in terms of leather is the different types of tanning processes that are out there. The first type is vegetable tanned leather, which is the type that a lot of people think of when they think of high quality leather product. Vegetable. 10 Leather is where the manufacturer will take leather hides in their raw form, put him into a barrel along with some liquids, and then they'll put in natural ingredients like tree barks and other things. There is always a recipe that every manufacturer has and no start to tumble the leather hide with all of those ingredients. What this will do is the liquid will eventually infuse into the leather hide, and it will allow it to last a longer period of time without the king. So it essentially is helping that leather hide last a long time. Now when you do this with vegetable tanned leather, it takes a long period of time for it to go into the barrel and for to come out. That is something that is different from vegetable tanned leather versus chrome tanned leather. When we talk about chrome 10 leather, which is more common in letter box. Today, the manufacturer does not use natural ingredients. Instead, it's a mixture of liquids and chromium. By introducing chromium to that barrel, the leather can actually go through that entire process of preserving itself in a fraction of the time. This allows the manufacturer to tumble a bunch of leather hides and get a lot more production out of it. Therefore, the prices There are a lot less typically when you talk about vegetable 10 mother to get a full high, you're talking between 120 above when you're talking about chrome. Tanned leather is typically between 50 and $80 for a role when you get into a high quality manufacturer with chrome 10 leather that can even reach the same costs as vegetable tanned leather. Now, the other difference between the two different tanning times is that vegetable. 10 leather typically leads to a natural color product. This means the light beige that everyone thinks of when I think about leather as opposed to chrome tan leather, which usually comes in Cote. When we talk about from tan leather, you get something like this from the manufacturer. It's a nice and beautiful finish. But when we start to talk about vegetable tanned mother, we're talking about something that is a light beige that will eventually, over time from its the teen up. It will turn into ah brown than a darker brown and in pages with the person and the way that it's being used. It's because of the oils on someone's skin from touching the leather and using it. Over time, it starts to turn it into this darker, richer, beautiful color. Chrome time mother. That's the same thing but does it at a different rate, and it does it in a totally different way. Sometimes a chrome 10 leather will age, and instead of getting a richer, bolder color, it will start to dull out and become more of a pastel color. So those are the major differences between Rome tan leather investable tan leather that you really need to know. I would highly recommend starting off with chrome tanned leather just because if you've never done mother working before, it will be at a better price point and you'll be able to get used to the material once you get used to it, and you start to understand how to tool the letter and how to finish it and get the product you want out of it. That would be the point that I would suggest that you try vegetable 10 mother and create some products out of it. Personally, I use phone tan leather for a majority of my projects just because I loved the finishes that I could get some companies you can go to for his leather is district leather supply. You can also go to tan the leather factory, and personally, I like to go to a Kedia leather company. They are located in the New England area of North America, which is the Northeast, and they have some very high quality leathers that are both chrome, tan, investable 10 and vegetable re tend. They also have a great deal. So I'm not a spokesperson for them. But I highly recommend you check 3. Leather Quality: when we talk about the different quality of leather that's out there assigned from the different tanning processes between prone tan and vegetable tanned mother, which we just talked about. I'll also tell you a little bit about full grandmother, top grain, leather and genuine mother. Full grain leather is typically your highest quality leather. It's the leather that you would get, and it's it's straight from the animals. Hide to the Factory 10 and provided to you. This means that any imperfections in the animal skin has not been taken out. You'll see everything from bug bites to scars to wrinkles from the fat from the animal, and also any nuances that might have been on the skin. That leads to a very beautiful product, because when you end up showcasing some of those fat wrinkles or even things like bug bites , you know something very minuscule. And some people, even like Teoh, include the branding that went on the animals from the farmer or whoever was taking care of them. That adds another level of aesthetic value that some people really love because it's so natural and you can tell that it's ah high that came straight from the animal when we get into top grain leather. It's similar to full grain leather where you can get some of those imperfections. But sometimes now supplier will then buff and snuff the top layer of that skin, and by doing that they take off a very fine amount, and that just allows it to become this uniform surface right, and it gives it this nicer sheen. If they finish it with like a gloss, they can also finish it with a Matt finish and in some cases, and also get rid of some of the bug bites that you would see. But things like the scarring on the animal, the fat wrinkles and any branding that went on the animal stint will still be there. So in a lot of cases, top grain leather is what you would see at the luxury loved brands. When you got to full grain leather. Now you're talking about things like horses, saddles and more tougher materials that come together to create something that will last a long time. I would say top grain leather is more used when it comes to a fine, high level boutique kind of craft for any products full grain leather is typically what's going to get used and abused. Now you can also get full grain leather and create beautiful finished products. I have a few of those that came out very nice things, like a tote bag and other kinds of products that you would use for a very long time. And it will stand the test of time. And that's the great thing about both full grain leather and top brain love. Now, when I was talking about both of those types, you might have heard me refer to the skin layer off the leather high the skin layer. If you look at this red piece here, this is top grade mother, and the bottom side you can actually see is the flesh layer. There's a big difference between what we're seeing on this side vs what you're seeing on this side. This side feels kind of like the skin of the animal in terms of it being smooth. It's being roughed, and it hasn't that that level of finish to it, where you know that you wouldn't be able to just pierce right through this right. But the backside here on the flesh layer If you run your hand over it enough, you can start to see fibers when they take full grain leather. They don't do much to the surface. There are the skid side, and when you get the top grain, leather topping other, they'll snuff out just a little bit of that. And this is what you're seeing here. This is great high quality leather, and when you start to get the genuine mother, which is the lowest here that can ever get Now you're talking about a manufacturer that split the letter, which means that they took this particular piece of leather here and they just cut it right now in the middle, and they ran it through a machine and they separate its half of the flesh from there's the skin side, which is the top side here and the flesh side here. By doing that, they were able to cut down the thickness of this leather to a thickness that someone would be able to use for a product. And then the flesh side here gets thrown into a separate bin. When we get to talking about genuine leather, that flesh that went into a different been gets crumbled up. It gets chewed up and against pulverized and then against mixed with different pieces. And then it gets laid out on a bed and step so that it looks like leather. But in reality, it's just the flesh sign, which, as you can see here, the more I rub this, the more flesh starts to eventually come off or loosen up. What that means is, if you ever had a genuine leather wallet, for example, and there was a small hole in that wall it and over time you notice that the whole starts to get larger or you start to see different colors or you start to see the fibers coming out. That's essentially the reason by general letters of cheap. It's cheap because the flesh layer will rip apart, and it will separate so much that the durability is really there. When you talk about top green leather like this one and you talk about Phil's main leather , this skin is what holds it all together. The skin is the toughest part off the animal high, so any product that you make moving forward from here, remember to make sure that you're using full grain leather or top grandmother. I would always urge you to stay away from genuine leather because the name is this evening , since it makes it sound like it's such a high quality luxury product. But in reality, it's not full grain, land mother and topping Leather is where you want to spend your money in it, where you want you, your customers, your family, your friends toe have a product that is of high quality. That is something that you would see for a long period of time. So that's the differences between full green leather top grain, leather and generalize that you really need. 4. Choosing your Leather: for this project where we're going to make this five pocket minimal other wallet. We're going to be using a green top green leather that I have and of the life leather like this. The beautiful thing about other working is that when you start making products and you get to a point of making a lot of large products and small products, you end up getting remains of it that looks something like this. You have a little scrap pieces that could be used for a long time. So always hold on to your scrap pieces of letter because you never know what you could make out. This is a good example because this piece here is the perfect size to take this size of a product and cut a few more pieces out of it. You can really get the most use it, and it's very sustainable to do it this way. Then this card this piece and start new. When you buy leather, get it in a big role that looks something like this and you'll unroll it and you'll have a lot of areas work with. I typically cut that down into a workable size that looks something like this, or even a scrap keys that looks something like this. There's something that works on the cutting board side that you have, and then I just start with that angle. They're So let's move into talking about the tools euro. You'll need it and it will get into the process of making this problem. 5. Essential Leather Working Tools: getting into the material and tools that will need for this project. The first thing I'll talk about are the two different pieces of leather that will use the first that I have is a scrap piece that I have from an earlier project. This is a black top grain leather. I'm gonna pair it with this green top grain leather would have met Finished. This is one of my favorite pieces of leather, and I've had it for some time now, in terms of the tools will need. The first is going to be this metal ruler. It's very important to have a long not a ruler, because when you start getting into larger projects, having a straight edge like this that you could hold the blade against without damaging is very important. The next thing I'll talk about are some patterns that I designed and cut for myself. So this here is a set of three. I actually have four in here. It's because one of the pieces here I'm going to use for the curve and that piece looks like this. I'll be using this top edge here for the curve that goes on the wallet so that curve you can see is on the pockets, so I'll be using that just as a template. The next thing will need is a utility knife like this and an Exacto knife like this. Something with a nice fine tip point that can cut curves very easily. I'd say. Be very careful with this one, because this one is extremely sharp. The next thing will need are some punching irons like this. This one here, have a round tip. I like the round tips better than the diamond tips because of the way that they end up looking. This set here is quite expensive. It's something that you would get into later if you really enjoy leather working and you're ready to upgrade your tool set instead of using something like this, if you want to start off with a basic set, you can buy a diamond tipped chisel like this. And the diamond one is is actually a very good one to start with because it will punch through leather pretty easily. It has a very sharp tip here, and it will make its way all the way through. A set of this comes with four, and it costs between 12 to $20. The next thing you'll need is a corner rounded punch like this. This one makes a really nice corner. You essentially just hold it down onto the corner of your product, and then you would take a mallet like this and you would hit the top. And once you punch it through the piece of leather, you'll end up with a very nice, rounded corner. Next thing you'll need is the mallet that I just showed you. This mallet here has a softer head so that it doesn't damage the back end of your tool. I found it very helpful to take the nut off of the back and put some thread lock on. It tightens a nut back on so that nothing moves around when you're working. I had it move around a few times, and now is a terrible experience, So I highly recommend doing that. The next thing you need is in adhesive something like this. This is kind of like contact cement, but this one is water base. It's sold by a company called District Leather Supply. It's a very good company to buy your tools by your glue and to buy your leather from the next thing you'll need is a wood furniture like this. This is used to slick the edges. The next thing you'll need is a burnishing agent like this. I like this one from Tokyo, is a very big one that a lot of leather workers use, and it creates a very nice looking edge finished for your product. You'll also need a canvas cloth like this. This is used for finishing the edge, and then this is something that I use regularly now. It's just Ah, nice, fine grain sandpaper. I use this to just finish the edges, get it nice and ready so that I can put all of the different burnishing agents onto it. We'll also need a scissor. A pair of scissors like this would be helpful just to cut off the end of the um, threads when we're done stitching, and then we'll need a lighter just to burn off the ends of the thread. When we're done stitching, this year's called a scratch all the scratch. All could be used to put any kind of marking on the surface of the leather. So if you imagine taking this pattern here, and you put it onto the top of the leather. You can trace this outline onto it and come back later and cut it out. This is basically just to scratch. The surface will be using this also to scratch the finish surface of the leather so that we can adhere another piece onto it. Typically, the skin layer of the leather is a little bit harder to get glue to stick to. So when you take something like this and you just kind of give it a little bit of abrasion that will help the glue get into the flesh layer, and it will help connect the two pieces of leather together. This is called an edge bevel er the edge. Beller is used to give the edges of your product a slight bevel so that you can stand it down and finish the edge with the burnish er, you'll see that the burnish their here has some rounded corners, and that is done so that you can catch the product the products edge and actually smooth it out and give it that nice finish. If you don't use the bevel er, you can also sand it down and try and get it to have this this small curve in it before you start using this tool, some people might not want to use this tool, and you might just decide that you don't want a bevel your edge, and you don't want to finish it with this. Instead, you might just want to use the furnishing agent and a canvas cloth. Just give it a nice finish, but typically this is the process you would follow. The next thing that I like to use when I'm working is this roller here. It's a very simple roller just to help you push down and add some pressure for gluing two pieces of leather together. This is very important. It's called a wing divider. The wing divider is used to help you trace and draw a guide onto the surface of your leather product, and then you'll use that line that you just sketched onto onto your product to punch your holes for saddle stitching. Later, the nice thing you'll need is a stitching phony. So this one here is one that you can upgrade to in the future. If you're just getting started, I would highly recommend getting one that looks more like this. This one is bigger, it's taller, and it's also just made a basic material. What this is used for is it'll hold your product in the ends of the legs, and it will hold it in place that you can saddle stitch, left and right, left and right, left and right without having it Move around. When you start getting to a point where upgrading your tool set this one is very good because you can fold it up, put it away. You can bring it with you somewhere. You can also adjust the angle that it's sitting away from your towards you. The next thing will need is leather stitching needles. So this is different from regular needles. Because the ends of duties are blunt, they're not sharp it all that way. They don't prick your fingers at your saddle stitching, and they also don't get caught on the leather itself. The next thing will need is some wax thread. I love this one from Main Threat Company, this one I've been using ever since I started leather working. It's just a little bit of a thicker piece of thread, and it'll look a lot better with this particular product. I just like the aesthetic of it. You couldn't go with a thinner and one if you really want. And the cool thing is that these threads come in different colors so you can buy this and red, blue, brown whatever color you're looking for, they might have, and if they don't have it as a waxed thread, they might have something similar. The next thing will need is a bone knife, so this isn't really made out of a bone, but they used to be, and you were going to be using this. Help fold over the leather if we ever need to. We can also use this on the inside of the pocket so that you can insert it and essentially pull the pocket away at the corners where it's pitched. And what that will do is it will create a little bit of space. So when you sell your product and you give it to someone to use, they can start putting cards in there without having to really force it in. So the next thing will need is a big cutting mat. So what you're seeing here is a 24 by 36 inch cutting board or cutting met that I really love to use. It's helpful to have a really big working surface where you can move all around and continue cutting on top of it without worrying about scratching up your countertop or anything like that. The last thing that will need is a salad surface like this. So this solid surface here is just a slab of Korean. Korean is a really thick, dense plastic. A lot of people have it in their houses on her kitchen counter. You can also get a block of granite that's about an inch thick, and what that will do is it will add a hard surface for you to use your tool and your melon hammer into your leather product, and then you can then create any holes or do anything that you need with your mallet using this surface. It's also important to put something like this pounding board on it. This pounding board is kind of like the same material as your cutting mat, and what it does is it will help preserve the integrity of your tools so that the tips of it doesn't get damaged. The last thing that I'll talk about that you don't really need to have from the very beginning. If you're just doing this as a hobby, is the brass stent like this? This here has a local of my leather company on it Mars Leather Company. This is something that I started a little while ago. And, um, it's something that I still use every now and then when I'm making products, this could be used to put any kind of logo onto your final product. You would need to get this custom made by someone who has a CNC machine or anything like that. I got this one from Etc. And I'm sure you could find one for yourself as well. It's really cool to start putting your own finishing touches on your products. So this is something that I would recommend if you're thinking of starting a company for if you just want to start up a brand for yourself, 6. Cutting the Leather Pieces: Now that we've gone over the materials and tools that you'll need for this project, let's start cutting the leather instead of using the metal ruler for this part of it. I'm actually going to just use the templates that I cut for myself. They're made out of a thick piece of wood so that they're a little bit easier to use as a template, and I will just essentially trace thes curves and a straight edges with my knives. So let's get started. So I'll start with. But this larger piece here, we're going to need two of every piece, and this one is the one that I'd like to start with, because it'll help me start to determine how I want to cut up the leather. If there is anything on the leather surface that you would really want in your product that's shown on the outside, remember to flying ahead and just make sure that it's within your cut. So I'm just going to start cutting this and I'll show you how I do it along the way. - Now I want the interior pocket to actually be this black color, so I'm going to take this black leather, and I'm gonna cut it using this smaller piece here paired with this piece here just to get the curve on a very top. They happen to be the same size. This is used for a bi fold wallet that I designed before, and I just like the curve of it for the pocket. So I'll show you how I'd cut that out. Now, All right, now that I have the two pieces cut out for the interior pocket, I'm going to use this cheese here to give it that curve on the top. - All right. Now, the last thing we're going to need to cut is this piece here. This will be the out of pocket of the five pocket minimal wallet. All right, so using this set of templates here, I was able to cut out all of these pieces here, which consists of three pieces per side. We're going to stack them up in this way, and then we're gonna take both of them and connect them together this way, using some glue. Just hold him together, and then we'll saddle stitched the pieces together and natto create the five pocket minimal wallet. So let's move on to the next step 7. Gluing the Leather Pieces: okay, now that the pieces are cut and we're ready to start glowing them together. So first, we're gonna take these pieces here and glue them all together in this way so that the three pieces are all stuck together, and then when we're done sticking with these three pieces together will stick them. We'll stick this set with this set so that they're all combined to do that. I'll use this water based adhesive here that we went over into materials along with just a regular brush that I found somewhere in my house. And for this one, if you have a leather surface that isn't like the texture that I have here, which is a Met finish that has some kind of, um, grittiness to it, you should use your scratch all to scratch about an eighth of an inch off of the edge here so that you can actually glue, um, the pieces together for the out of pocket. This one here, I would not scratch it at all because you're not putting any glue out here. Instead, you're going to put glue on the side, the bottom, and decide when you get to the black piece here, this one I would meet to scratch the sides here for the inner pocket because this particular one is you can see is glossy that gloss and that finish won't let the glue it here that well. So I'm going to take my time with the scratch all, and I'll show you how I scrape off just the top layer here so that the contact cement can actually glue the pieces together. And then I'll show you how I glue them together. Let's go So you'll see here that the outer pocket is actually shorter than the inner pocket . And that's done because you want people to be able to see the different layers. For that reason, you don't want to scratch anything above that out of pocket. You want to keep your scratching within the pocket or less than the pocket. So usually I just make a little mark to myself on both sides. So that's one side and under the same on this side, just like that. And what that will do is that will help me stay below that line's now. What we want to do is we want to make sure that as we're scraping this off that we scrape off just enough. So we want to scrape off maybe an eighth, maybe slightly larger. So about that much needs to be scraped. Here we go. All you do is just great. This and that will create a better surface for the glue to make contact with. And then you want to do that for the bottom edge as well. The best way to think about this is that you want to scrape off a little bit where you know that your saddle stitching will go. So one where there, stitching this later, we're going to come in about an eighth from the edge. So that's just about where we are now. You can come. You can actually scrape a little bit more, and you can glue it all together. But I typically like to stay closer to the edge. So that's one piece. Now we gotta scrape the next piece. So I just put these in order in terms of how we're going to glue them together later. That way we can stay organized, so the same thing will happen here. We use the shorter piece as a guide. We just mark worried needs to go, and then we do the same on the opposite side, just about there, and now we start scratching. They actually make a tool. I believe craft Will makes a tool that does this for you. But they went out of production recently, so I wasn't able to get one for myself. There is likely another one, so if you do enough research, you can probably find one, and it would make this process a lot easier and a lot faster. All right, so now that everything is scratched off and it's ready to glue, let's open up our water based adhesive. Here, take our old brush. You can use anything that you can get your hands on. Some contacts ments if you. If you decide to go with any other kind of contact cement, there's like barges or any others who would have a cap or a lid that comes with a brush in it. This particular one doesn't have one, so I just took on old paintbrush. So I start off by gluing this piece here, which is the centerpiece. It's the center pocket, the inner pocket for one side. Now, this is a very interesting point here. Some leather workers will try and keep this as need as possible in terms of their gluing and trying not to spread too much glue on it. And I highly recommend you do the same. But if you happen to put a little too much glue and it starts to squeeze out when we're pressing the pieces together later, don't worry, because we're actually going to trim Ah, part of the edge off. It's a trick that I learned that I think will save a lot of time. So now that we've glued this piece, I like to just hold it next to the other piece so that we know just how much to glue on this next piece here. Okay, once you have this glued together, once you have this much glue on here and you're ready to go, give it a second to just slightly dry. And then I would take this piece here, make sure you are all lined up and get the pieces together. Once the pieces on there, I like to take my roller and just roll it out. Give it one quick check. Make sure everything is good. Looks pretty good to me. and you come back. And now we've got to get this piece because outer pocket glued onto here as well. So let's get started. All right, there it ISS. So now just roll this on, get it to stick Well, and now this is what you end up with. So now this is one side of the five pocket wallet. The next thing we need to do is glue the other side, just like we did here. And it will blew the two pieces together. - All right, so now we have these two pieces of the five pocket minimal wallet glued together. And what we need to do next is actually take them and glue them together. This way will only be gluing the side and the bottom. We're going to leave the top, opens that building, put cash in there. The other thing that you can do at this step or even before this that it depends on your preferences. As you could take the logo that I was telling you about and actually imprinted wherever you want to. If you do it at the end, when these two pieces are attached together, you'll end up putting it on their own, and you will end up having some kind of color here or just a little bit of an off color on the backside. So doing it now would be a good idea. I'm just going to go and do it really quickly because I want to make sure that I put my company's logo on it. This is Mars leather Company. It's a company that I started a little while ago, and it's something that I continue doing just as a hobby. So I'm gonna go and put it on using my I think it was a one or a 10 ton press. I'm just gonna put this on here, Senator it and pull the press down, and that will be done. All right. I just went and I took my Mars leather company stamp, and I put it right onto the front of this one side of the leather. Now, the important thing is, if you ever decide to get something like this, you have to make sure that you look at the orientation of your stamp. There were a few times in the past when I first got it, that I actually put the stamp upside down a few times because I didn't check to make sure that it was correct. So that's just the heads up, something everyone learns from, and I'm sure you will go through the same thing. But just keep that in mind. Now that we've got these two pieces ready to go, let's go them both together and then wait for the glue to drive to remember. We're only going to be gluing the side in the bottom. Do you have it? So this is the five pocket, minimal wallet and it's rough form. You have your two pockets on this side. Two pockets on this side, one pocket right down the center here. So now we just need to wait for the glue to dry, and when we get back, we'll start tooling. 8. Straightening the Edges: Now that the five pocket minimal wallet is at here together and the glue has dried, you'll see that using that water based adhesive actually dried clear. So that's something that I really like about that glue. Ah, if you had any that spilled out of the sides, it would dry pretty clear. Sometimes you would notice it a little bit, but this next step will really help with that. This is something that I learned over time, and it's a step that I actually do in reverse. So some people like to finish the edges last. I like to get started now, now that everything is glued together, and the way that will do that is, we'll take either the metal ruler that you have at home or will take a pattern like this that's made with a really good material that you can use as a guide and then all hold it up against the edges and we'll just trim off a very little bit of the edge on all four sides, and that will help us keep this thing straight, and it will help me make it look very, very clean. So let's start with the side here, I would take a very sharp knife. I actually prefer to use the exact night for this. Line it up to make sure that everything is good and then is very carefully cut along that edge. Try and keep your knife as vertical as possible and just take it slow so you'll see that that really cleaned up the edge here. So let's do that again on the opposite side. Line it up, Aziz. Best as possible. Take a sharp knife and cut. Hold your knife as vertical as possible. Take it slow by a little bit more pressure and cut all the way through. There you have it. So that's two sides. So now you can do the longer edge. Same concept goes, vertical is possible. And here it is. There is that. So there is that very straight edge. And that just adds another level of craftsmanship to this wallet. Now we want to do this top edge as well. This one's a little trickier because you have all the different layers, so it's actually a little bit lower, and it will move up and down a little, so make sure you line everything up and just take it very slow. There you have it. So now you've got a very clean edge. The other thing I like to do at this step is I like to round the corner. So at this step now, I like to just take the corner rounding tool from craft tool. And I like to chop the corner off that we can get started with a rounded corner. Now, typically, you want to do this on a cutting mat like this, but I would find a spot on the mat that you won't really use as much in the future because sometimes you might hit the tool too hard and a sharp edge will actually go kind of far into the mat. So be careful with where you're placing it and just make sure that you keep this as vertical as possible. So here we go. I'll just use this area of my men. Since the cameras set up, I would line up the corner as best as possible. Once it's in there, then you hold it vertical and you tap it through. There you have it. That's one corner. Now we have to do this three more times. That's two corners. So now it's two more times. Okay, last corner. There it is. So that's the beauty of using a tool like this. This corner punch just cut out these four corners pretty nicely. And the next step from here, I like to take the edge. Bevel er and I like to just trim off the edge before we start stitching, and this will help us really get to that next level of finish. 9. Beveling and Sanding the Edges: so the way that I used the edge, Beller is I'll take it and I'll start with the out of pocket and then I'll finish the other ones later because the other ones are a little further down. So you take it, you hold it up against the corner here and you try and keep it a steady as possible. You push, and I will just take off that little bit. Meritus, you just work your way around. Does exactly what the tools name is. It just bevel is the edge. So that later you can actually finish it using the wood burnishing tools. Okay, now we repeat the same thing on the opposite side. Now that that's done, I like to take some sandpaper like this, and I just sand down the edges and get it to be nice and flush and smooth. And then from there, we can either start burnishing now or we can do it after we're done stitching. So I'm going to choose to send it now and then I'm going to tool arrest of the five pocket from leather wallet, stitch it together and then burnish it at the end. So I'll show you how I sanded and you condone Go as much as you want with sandpaper to smooth it as much as you want. I usually just do it just to get everything to be uniform. So here we go. So because of the corner punch tool, you can see like there's this hard edge here. I'm going to try and smooth that into the rest way. Okay, There you go. So now it's a little bit smoother. You can see this here is starting to really get there now. Same thing with this corner. You want to smooth that corner out. Just be careful doing this. You don't want to go too fast and slipped and hit the surface of your wallet. You just wanted to focus on the edge here and now. The top. Same idea going all the way around. So now you're edges pretty nice. And at this point, I'm just gonna take a little bit of water. Put it right on here, and I'll go over it with the burnish. Er, just Teoh, get it to smooth down any of these fibers. Here's some water. I like to use my finger for this. You can use anything you want, you can use a sponge, a cloth, All right, so that's pretty good. Given a second, let the water soak in there and then we'll grab our burnishing stick here and we'll just get started. I honestly like using the end appointed part of it just because I have such a sticker flatter edge. So I'll do that here. Typically, you can use any of these rounded parts here. This is just helping lay down all of those fibers, so that when you do the edge finishing later, everything just looks like it's smooth and nice and finish all right, there you have it. So that's just a very quick finishing right now, and later we'll get back and we'll actually put a nice, magical loss on there. 10. Guiding and Punching Stitching Holes: Okay, So for this next step, we're gonna get into tooling the leather and also hand stitching the leather. So to do this, we're going to need to use the wing divider. You take the wing divider, and then you can actually use the spindle here to widen and minimize the gap at the end. What you'll use this four is you'll hold one end of it to the edge of your product, and the other end of it is a little sharp. Go down and based on the spacing that you chose, it will create a guide for you. And that guide will be used with your punching tools later to help guide and keep them all straight. From here we go. This is how you would use it. I like to start here because this is a There's different tiers. So they sought to start at the top tier here, and I'll just go straight down. I'll stop about here because there's a curve. How come across draw another line, I'll stop. I'll come across girl another line, and here I would actually drop down to the next piece, but carefully draw that line to the end of that cannot stop. The reason for that is we're only going to stitch one whole past it. We're not going to go all the way to the end. So now that you have that, the last one is to draw line on this, then and there it is. And now we just need to connect that rounded corner. So take it and slowly around the corner do that on the other side, connected to together. And now you see the lines that we have, they're actually going to be used just to guide your tool. So now that that's done, we just need to take this, put it on to our pounding board and start to tool the leather. So for this, I'm going to change the camera position, just said you can see what it looks like and so you can get a better understanding of how it all works. All right, so now that we have are pounding board laid down and we have our wallet on top of it, the next step here is to start tooling. So for that, I'm going to use a combination of a six tooth iron with a two tooth. So we're going to use this to round the corner and we're gonna use this for this traitor path. So to get started, what I like to do is start from the very end here. So I like to find where the last tooth would go Press it down. It is kind of gauge where each tooth would end up going. I don't like how in this case you can see this third tooth is actually right at the edge of that outside pocket. So instead of minutes scooted over very slightly. And what this will do is will end up nicking just a little bit of this outside pocket. You can also choose to move it out a little bit more, and maybe that's the better idea. So I kind of like this a lot better, so we'll go with that. So I'll push down really hard just to get the imprint of where I'm going to start. I want to do that same thing on the opposite side. So that would be just about here. Make sure your centered over the line and pushed down just to imprinted in there. So now you see how thick this piece of leather is you really want to make it all the way through. So make sure that on your first pass you get your tool and you see what it would look like . If the tool made it all the way through. I would essentially need to get it all the way up to that tooth there. So here we go. I want to line it up. Keep it as vertical as possible. Once you're ready, then you can get started. So I like to tap it a few times like that, just so that it can get into police, and then I start to hit it harder. Okay, so that should have made it all the way through at this point here, you just hold it down and there you have it. So we're going to repeat this process until we make it down to here and then we'll turn the corner. So now you want to take the last tooth here, put it into that last hole there, and work your way around there. You have it. So now that we're at this part here, you want to start rounding the corner. So you take your to problem tool, get it on there and then line it up, hold it vertical and go and hit it. There you have it. So now find out, lying again. Find the next point on that line. Get your iron in place and hit it. Now, this is very important to talk about with this particular tool. You can see that there's these outlets over here, and what that does is it actually shoots out some of the leather as it gets full some irons . I don't have this, but are the round type like this will end up getting stuck and caught with all of these pieces of leather, and then the tool won't work anymore. So this particular one from sign of rocks as very good is from Korea, and it's one. Debt was recommended to me by several other workers, So I highly recommend getting into better tools as you get better at leather working. But at first it's not as important to have this. It is more important to learn the skill itself. Now you might think, Oh, we're back on the straight path so we can switch back to the six point iron, but it's actually not straight yet. because we just started making it past the rounded edge. Now you come back around and you just want to finish with the two problem tool. All right? Now that we've made it around, you can take your other tool. And what I like to do is work this way on this path now, and I just do this once, and then I'll repeat what I did here on the opposite side. Okay, so now we're going to do the same thing, but on this side, and we'll start to catch up with what we just did. So line these guys up at the teeth in place. Hold it down, keep it vertical and go get to the next one. Line up the whole with the last tooth and go. And now, same, my dear, with the two problem iron, good and again starts around that corner. Good. Last time with the two problem. Line it up, get it on the line with the other tooth and go. Now that that's lined up, we can start working towards it on this path here. So just keep on working her right across that line. There it is. Good. And now for the last one. Keep it US trade as possible. You can also go the opposite way here, and that's what I'll choose to do. And there you have it. So now we're all tooled and ready to hand stitch. 11. Saddle Stitching: all right. Now that we've finished tooling the five pocket minimal wallet, it's time to get into saddle stitching. This is, Ah, very unique skill that not a lot of people have today. So trying to learn this will take a lot of practice and a lot of time. Just make sure that you stay patient with it and that you practice a few times before you make your final product. I'm going to try and show you by having two different cameras from two different positions , and I'll walk you through it as I'm stitching to get started with saddle stitching. It's one of those skills that will take you a little bit of time. Like I said, First, you need the wax thread like this. This is the 0.35 size threat from Maine. Let it from Main Threat Company. You take this and then you're going to need two of those stitching needles that I was telling you about earlier so all of these will come together, and then you'll use that for saddle stitching. Now, to determine the amount of length you'll need, you'll need tohave, the wallet, the five pocket wallet and what I'll do here is our clamp it in place so that its held firmly in my stitching pony. Once I have that in place, then I'll take the threat and I'll loosen it up. I'll just unspool a bit of it. And there's a trick to measuring how much thread you'll need. First, you'll take that thread and you'll hold it from the last hole to the first hole. And in many cases, people say that you should pull four times the amount of length per edge. The way that I like to think about it is this particular wall. It will be a little bit thicker than most conventional products that are small. So in that case, instead of pulling four times the length, uphold five times the length. What that means is you'll measure using the whole so as one length 2345 and in the opposite side is the same thing, so I'll go five more times. 12345 Now you want to do five for this long edge as well. 12345 Technically, that should be enough. Now this depends on your personality and whether or not you want to take a risk. If this is not enough, you'll end up having ah less thread to go with at the end. And if you run out, you'll have to continue to stitch using another threat so you can pull a little extra. I typically like to just go one more wrong, but for this particular one, I just go a little bit more. I'll trust that the five will be enough. Take your scissor, cut that off and you're all set. The next step is taking that thread, putting it through the eyelid and creating an interesting not so once it goes through what you'll want to do here. What you want to do here is you'll want to take that put it through the islet there And once it goes all the way through, you want a pinch it. Hold that needle in place, pierce through that thread with the needle. And once it goes all the way through, you pull through the entire islet, you pull it all the way through and then you pull the opposite end all way through. And now you have this not show you it one more time. So you get to the opposite end. You take this needle, you get it through the island, and then you've pierced through it with your needle. Grab that end that's going through the island and pull it all the way through. Once that's through, you pull the opposite part and then you have a not, and that's what you need. So that's what you will have on both ends here and now you're ready to start Saddle saddle stitching so to saddle stitched. That is a very interesting skill to learn, because you need to essentially take both needles and cross over in each hole with each one and keep this kind of emotion. The way that I like to do it is I'll go with both needles from the third hole to the second hole, and what we're going to do is we're going to do a back stitch, so we're going to stitch to the ferry 1st 1 and then come back across and do the entire thing and come back one more time. So now that we have the needles in the whole, pull it all the way through, make sure that this goes all the way through, and then What you want to do is you want to take this back thread and you want the back needle to go under and in front of the other needle And then you put it through that same hole and you pull it all the way through Pull it tight, find out last hole put the 1st 1 through get the other needle, put it behind, grab it and pinch pull it all the way through Pull that thread all the way through And then you take that back needle and you put that back needle into the hole You pull it all the way through Pull it tight. And at this point, some people like to show that it's handmade by going around which you would take this needle, go over and through and then it would leave you this little bit of of the the threat on the outside that shows people that it's handmade. Typically, I don't like to do that, so I'm just gonna work my way back now. So now you find out other hole, you go right through it. Pull that needle through, get the other you know behind it. Pull that thread All the way through Put the needle that's behind inside and go through the opposite way And you just keep this motion going all the way through and now you do it again in the next hole. Get the other needle behind, pull it through push that needle that was behind through the same hole And then you pull your thread all the way through And I just keep this going Find the next toll, pull it through, find the next hole, pull it through and then you just keep that motion, Find an exhale, pull it through, get that needle behind, pull it through, pull it through and you just keep going and you keep this going until you make it all the way around. Now, as you could see, every time I'm going through, you'll see that I often bring my right hand to pinch the threads back. And that's to create enough room and is to hold the threads out of the way so that I don't actually pierce through it with one of these needles. I've done that before, and when you pierce through one of these threads with the needle and will end up creating a big headache for you because you'd have to go back and unwind all of it and try and figure out where it was messed up. And you have to go back through the hole and undo as much as you could. So now that we've reached the end of that first edge, we're going to loosen the stitching. Pony up, turn it 90 and we're going to keep working back towards us. Tighten it back up and continue. There we go. Just keep working all the way back. Teoh, you reached the other end and you can see as I'm going that the threat is actually getting shorter and shorter and shorter, and I don't have to pull the thread as much. Now you can see I just made it to almost the last hole here. And now that I'm in that last hole, you want to back stitch just like when we first began. So let's go back to holes. Finest hole that was behind. Pull your needles through and then take the back needle. Put it in there and pulled out all the way through. Put your needle in the other side. Pull that through. Put the back noodle in, pulled out all the way through. And there you have it. This is what that ends up looking like. And now that we have this, you can just chop the ends off, chop it off close to the product and then shop off the other side, close to the product. Now we'll want to grab, are lighter and just burn off the end. So find where that end waas and burn it in and you'll see that it's melting once and melts in. Press it in, so pressed it in there and melted another one more time. So here it is. So you melt that and there and a new precedent. There you have it, and that's basically it. The next part is just finishing the edge. You can see that the edge here is just about done, but there's one more step to finishing this product 12. Burnishing and Finishing the Edges: the last step for finishing the five pocket minimal wallet is to take it and finish the edge. So you'll see here that this is the edge condition we're left with. It's pretty dry, and there's some fibers still kind of loose on there. You remember earlier we actually went through and we put some water on here and we burnished the edge just a little bit. So now what we'll do is we'll take the burnishing agent here, the token old I was talking about in the materials, and we'll use that to finish the edges and give it a nice, glossy finish that in conjunction with this canvas paper, what we'll do with this canvas piece here is we'll just take it and will rub the edge until it heats up. That burnishing agent enough, and it gives it that nice, glossy finish. So let's start with taking the top off here. Let's take this minimal wallet here and actually use my finger for this just like one, and we were using the water earlier. I'll take just a little dab of it, and then I'll run my finger right along the edge here and just apply it and you can see it's starting to already show some gloss just from applying it here. Now we want to put just enough on there. We want to work our way around. That's that. Let's just keep going. It's the more and you can see it's starting to dry on the side that we started with. And here that's a good sign. That means that it's just about ready for us to take the canvas cloth and start to burnish it so you can see how it looks now and then you take the cloth and you just start to rub it and heat it up. You can see just by doing this it's already starting to shine. So let me just stop for a second and show you what that looks like. So there it is. It's starting T show that little bit of Sheen's. And a lot of people after this stuff will typically put some wax on it, too. It's a mixture of different kinds of wax, different things like bees wax as well, and a lot of people have their own recipe for creating a burnishing agent. I just like sticking to water and using token Oh, token. All is probably the best one I've ever used, and honestly, it's pretty easy here. You can choose to use the would burnish er. I just like to use the canvas cloth, and if this isn't enough, then I'll put a second coat on it and it will continue making it shiny er and shiny ER. And then it will create that finish. So when you sell this product to someone or give it away or use it yourself, it just has that next level of finish that really shows off the beauty and craftsmanship of something that's handmade. So you can see now that's the long edge there, See how that's coming along. And now we got to turn it and continue. When you're working on it like this, you can start to hear it making like a clicky sound when it starts to get tacky, and that's a good sign. That means that it's getting to a point where it's actually almost done. So check that out. So now we gotta do the very top edge on the court. Okay, we're just about there, so here you go. Check this out. That's the edge finish. That's what you can expect and then this as the brand of the first company ever started. Mars Leather Company This is the five pocket, minimal wallet. 13. Conclusion: Now that we've created this five pocket minimal leather wallet, it's time to talk about what you might potentially get in terms of a price point. This is something that I think everyone wants to know, especially if you're hoping to get into leather working. And you want to start selling this and start a little shop of your own something like this . The five pocket, minimal wallet can typically go for $60 at a minimum, sometimes $50. It depends on where you want to start off. When you get to a point where you're making something like this and you're growing a brand and the brand becomes known among your community and a bunch of people, the then typically something like this could actually go for Katie to $95. It might even go more than that, depending on the brand that you have and how much people love your product and also how many people want to buy it. So this little wallet is something that could be a really good addition to anyone's crafts store. I really recommend trying something like this. If it's your first time getting into leather working, you can even try making something like this plan instead of five pockets. Just make it with three. Forget about the inner pocket here and just make the very interior pieces as well as the outside pockets, just to show you how it works. The outside pocket here is where people can put some cards than the next pocket. The interior pocket people can have more cards, and over time the leather will end up stretching. So if anyone ever asked you about the wall, it it will stretch as time goes on and use MAWR. More cards can also full bills and put bills right into the center here, and it's the same on the opposite side. So I hope you guys enjoy this video. I really hope that it helped you learn a little bit about leather working, and I really hope that this class will keep the craft going. It's something that I think it needs to continue, and it's really fun to do. It's something that's relaxing and something that you can patiently learn on your own. And over time you can start collecting tools just like other people, like collecting cars and objects. This is a craft that you can do on your free time. So let me know what you guys think. And remember to follow me. I'm on YouTube at Timothy Young. You can follow me on Instagram asked him underscore and you can find out more about things that I'm working on. Thank you for joining me. And I hope to see you next time for the next class.