How to Knit in the Round - Magic Loop | KnittingHouseSquare | Skillshare

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How to Knit in the Round - Magic Loop

teacher avatar KnittingHouseSquare, Knit / Craft / Sew

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Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

10 Lessons (46m)
    • 1. Lesson 1 Magic Loop Introduction

      2:38
    • 2. Lesson 2 Cast On & Divide Stitches for Magic Loop

      2:24
    • 3. Lesson 3 Knitting a Round with Magic Loop

      5:51
    • 4. Lesson 4 Switching Knitting Needle Sizes with Magic Loop

      3:04
    • 5. Lesson 5 Increasing Stitches at the Beginning of a Magic Loop Round

      3:40
    • 6. Lesson 6 Decrease and Cast-Off Stitches While Working Magic Loop

      5:18
    • 7. Lesson 7 Decrease and Cast-Off Stitches While Working Magic Loop

      6:24
    • 8. Lesson 8 Pick Up Stitches & Begin Magic Loop

      6:06
    • 9. Bonus 1 Long Tail Cast On!

      4:16
    • 10. Bonus 2: How to Fix Mistakes and Rip Back Knitting while Working Magic Loop!

      5:58
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About This Class

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One of the most useful skills to lean in knitting is how to knit in the round. In this class I will take you through one popular technique for how to knit in the round - magic loop! To demonstrate this technique we will work through a mitten pattern. 

This class is for beginner/intermediate knitters who are familiar with casting-on, knitting, and purling. 

Meet Your Teacher

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KnittingHouseSquare

Knit / Craft / Sew

Teacher

Philadelphia based knitwear designer and knitting instructor

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Transcripts

1. Lesson 1 Magic Loop Introduction: Hello, I'm Madeline for meeting how Square and welcome to how to knit and around using magic loop. So I love the magic loop technique is a technique that you can use, tin them around. And what's great about it is that you just use one that long circular knitting evil. There's no need for those double pointed needles anymore. So what I'm going to be teaching you today are a lot of the fundamentals that you need to know when working through various projects and using the Magic Flute technique should just show you these various things were going to be working through a small mitten Project. And what I love about this project is first, oh see rubella yarn. So it's a quick mitt and it also turns out with durably. And then also that you incorporate so many different things in the netting of n. So we're gonna go through things like how to cast on and join them around using magic loop. How to increase our knitting needle size when working magic loop. How to cast off, how to pick up additional stitches and then continue working. So there are so many different techniques that we can work through in a mitten where we can utilize this magic loop technique. So I'm very excited to share this with you. So down below you're gonna find a link to the project. And that's gonna be the full written version of the pattern that we're working through. And I've made sure to note in the pattern what lesson is associated with each step. So for instance, casting on and joining him around for magic loop is less than number two. That's noted in the pattern. If you have any questions or comments along the way, feel free to leave those down below. I'll be happy to chat with you. And let's get started. Starting off with the materials for this project, we're going to be using two different knitting needle sizes. So first for the ribbing, we're gonna be using SI of us 11 or eight millimeters circular knitting needle. And for magic loop you do but a longer cord. So I would go with something that's 24 inches or longer. Then for the main portion of the mitten, you're going to want to sighs us 13 or nine millimeter circular knitting needle. Again with a Court of 24 inches or a longer. You're going to have one stitch marker to mark where the thumb increases will be going. And then optionally, if you'd like to mark the front and back of your work, you can use one removable stitch marker will need some waste yarn to hold the thumb stitches, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors. Lastly, for the yarn, you're gonna want about 70 yards or 63 meters of super bulky. Also notice number six, weight yarn. The one I'm going to be using for this project is Lion Brand will ease, that can quick. And this one is the butterscotch color way. 2. Lesson 2 Cast On & Divide Stitches for Magic Loop: So the first step is gonna be the cast on our stitches. For this project, we need a cast on a total of 20 stitches. So to do that, I'm just going to choose one of my knitting needles. You can do either one. And I'm just going to cast on all 20 stitches, rape straight and aligned. So for this project in particular, I would recommend using a stretch of your casts on method. So something like the long tail cast on or the German twisted cast on. So now that I've cast on those stitches, all I wanna do is I want to grab on all those stitches. And now I want to slide those stitches so that they're completely on the court. And if you can get to the middle of the chord, that's the easiest place. Now that they're in the middle of the chord, I'm going to count into the halfway point. So for this pattern that's ten stitches. Now once I found the halfway point, I'm going to divide the stitches right there, so just stretch them out a little bit. Now I'm going to grab onto the cord and my work. And I'm going to pull on my chord until both sets of these stitches end up on my knitting needles. So now the stitches are on my knitting needles. And for this next step, when we actually begin to emit around, what I wanna do is I want to make sure my knitting needle points are pointed towards the right. Then all the capstone bumps are down towards the table. So I'm going to push all those down towards the table. And I want to make sure my working yarn. So this is strand is my working yarn over yarn attached to my ball of yarn is coming out my back knitting needle. So when I say my back or my friend, the back one is the one furthest away for me, the front one is the one closest to me. And I'm essentially holding these two knitting needles parallel, kind of like on a flat plane that's parallel to the table. So I have one that's further away, one that's closer to me. So again, knitting needle points towards the right cast on bumps or your work is going down towards the table. Working yarn is coming out your back knitting needle. 3. Lesson 3 Knitting a Round with Magic Loop: Now I'm all set up to work May 1 round. And the first round says we want to work mate one per one ribbing. So there's a couple things to keep in mind when working magic loop. The most important thing is that when you're knitting one round, we need a work across both halves of the stitches. So first I'm going to work across the ten stitches on this front knitting needle. Then I'm going to turn my work and I'm going to work across the ten stitches on my back knitting needle, and then that's one round. So first, I wanna make sure I'm set up correctly every time I begin working. So I might tune it a needle points, pointing towards the right. My working yarn is coming out my back knitting needle by working Ahrens my ball of yarn. And then my work, or in this case just make acetone bumps are down towards the table. So when I began knit one Perot and ribbing, I'm beginning with a knit stitch. So when I begin with the knit stitch, I wanna take my working yarn, come up in-between the two knitting needles and then lay it back over my back knitting needle. That's how you begin with a knit stitch. Now if I began with a pearl stitch, I could just leave it hanging down below here. But again, we're starting with the knit stitch, so we're going to go up in between our two knitting needles up over the top. Now to actually begin working, I'm gonna take my back knitting needle or the one furthest away for me. And I'm gonna pull it towards the right. Now when I pull it towards the right, I want to make sure I still plenty of court over here on the left-hand side. So I don't want to pull it so far that the court runs out. If you do that, you can just read divide your stitches again. And now I'm just gonna take my free knitting needle and I'm going to go right into that first stitch on my friend knitting needle as if to knit. Now I'm going to wrap my urine around, pull through. And that was my first stitch. Now in the first stitch, you wanna pull it snowed but you don't want to pull it too tight that the stitches over here begin tightening up too much. So just pull it snug. Now again, I'm going to work a pearl stitch. So I'm going to bring the yarn to the friend worker pearl stitch. And I'm gonna continue working, knit one per one all the way across this knitting needle. Now that I've finished going across and again, I'm just going to Pearl that final stitch. I'm going to drop my left knitting needle. I'm going to point my knitting needles back over here towards the right. And now I'm going to thread back in my other knitting needle. And basically what this is gonna do is it's gonna make it. So again, we have each half of the stitches on one knitting needle. And again, I wanna double-check that my working yarn is coming out my back knitting needle or the one furthest away for me. My work is down towards the table and my knitting needle points are over towards the Reagan. So now again, so far we've only worked across half the stitches. So in order to move the full round, we have to work across the second half of the stitches. So again for me in this repeat, my next stitch is a knit stitch because I just pearl bat one. So I'm going to knit this one. So I'm going to bring my yarn up in between my two knitting needles and back over that back knitting needle. Now if you don't do this step where you place your yarn like this when you start off with the knit stitch, essentially you're just going to end up with an extra yard over at the beginning of every round. So if you're ending up with that, it's because your yarn is in the wrong place. Now again, to be in working cross this half of the stitches, I'm gonna take my back knitting needle point or the one furthest away from me. I'm going to pull it towards the right. Again, I still plenty of court over there on the left. And now I'm going to begin working cross this half of the stitches. So net one per one across these. So now again, I just continued working across that half of the stitches. So I'm gonna turn my knitting needle point over towards the right thread back in my second knitting needle. And ensure that I'm all ready to begin my next round. So knitting needle points over towards the right, working our incoming on my back knitting needle. And the work is coming out down towards the table. So now that I've worked across both of those knitting needles, I've worked one full round. So now the pattern states that we're going to continue working round after round of knit one per one ribbing over and over again until our work measures two inches from the cast on edge. So I'm going to measure from the bottom to the bottom of my knitting needles. Once I've reached that two inches, I'm gonna come back and show you how to switch your needle sizes using magic loop at this point as well, you could add a removable stitch marker to the front side of your work. This can help you remember when you've worked across both halves of the stitches. So I tend to remember just based off of where my tail is. So I know that when my tail is over here on the right-hand side, that's my beginning of around. Because the tricky thing about magic loop is you can't have a beginning of the round marker. It would just fall off your knitting needles. So what you can do instead is take a removable stitch marker and place it on the front side of your work. So I'm gonna place it right here on this stitch. And that way when I bribed the pink stitch marker facing me, that means that I'm working across the first half of the stitches. And then again, I would need to request the second half before I got back here to work the next round. So just a little tip. 4. Lesson 4 Switching Knitting Needle Sizes with Magic Loop: The next step in the pattern says to increase the knitting needle size. And typically in patterns, the pattern will just state to increase in a medieval sizes. And the way I like to do this using magic loop is that I incorporate the larger knitting needle size when working the next round in the pattern. So for this pattern, the next round is to knit one full round. So on that round, I'm gonna transition from my smaller knitting needle, which is this brown, grey color, to my larger size knitting needle, which are these purple ones right here. So when I do this, I'm actually gonna start the same exact way that I typically would. So again, knitting needle points over towards the right work coming down. I want my working yarn to come up in between the two needles back over the top of that top backward. And that's because my first, it's just going to be a knit stitch. Now I'm going to pull the back knitting needle towards the right. So those back stitches and up on the cord. But now instead of knitting with this knitting needle, I'm just gonna drop it and I'm going to pick up my next knitting needle size. So for me, these purple life's not going to go into the first stitch on my front knitting needle as if to knit. And I'm gonna emit all the way across this front side. Now when I finish going across this first side, I'm just going to drop my original living, beautiful smaller one. And now before I turn my work, I like this thread in my back knitting needles, which is my smaller MA needles, show soon that my back stitches end up on a knitting needle again. So now that I have both the stitches on knitting needles, The next thing I wanna do is I want to turn my work stuff. My knitting needle points are again pointed over towards the right works coming out the bottom. Working yarn is coming up my back man and needle, which right now is my larger knitting needle size. So now when I go to knit across this second half of the stitches, I'm gonna take my back knitting needle, the larger size one, I'm gonna pull it towards the right. The back stitches are now in the chord. Now I'm going to go into the first stitch on my friend knitting needle. And I'm going to knit all the way across the stitches. So now when I finish knitting across this half for the stitches, i'm just going to drop off my old knitting needle. And now you can see that my old knitting needle is not in my work at all anymore. So I can just put this knitting needle to the side. I don't need it anymore. And now when I read back in my second knitting needle, all of my work is on my larger knitting needle size. So that's how you increase or decrease knitting needle sizes when working magic loop. 5. Lesson 5 Increasing Stitches at the Beginning of a Magic Loop Round: Now the next step is to work with them increases. And what can be tricky about this thumb increases is that we need to work a make one right at the beginning of the round. So the way I make one rate typically works is you pick up the bar in between the stitch you just worked and the one you're about to work from back to front, and then you knit into the front of that bar. So in this case at the beginning of around while working magic loop, this ditch we just worked is the last edge on her back knitting needle. And the stitch we're about to work is the first stitch on our front knitting needle. So we essentially need to pick up this bar that's in between the back and the front of our work. So now there are two ways we can do this. So first, we could pull her back knitting needle over towards the right. And we could use this right knitting needle to help us pick up that bar. So this is the bari here between the one I just worked in learning about to work. So let's say I just lift this up. That makes it easier for me to now use my left knitting needle to go underneath that bar from back to front or the inside of my work to the outside of my work. And then I could knit into the front of that stitch. Alternatively, if I didn't want to use my right knitting needle, I can just stretch out my work. So stretch out the side here, take my left knitting needle point and go underneath that bar. From the back to the front are kinda like from the inside of my work to the outside of my work. And now I could knit into the front of that stitch. So those are two different ways to work that make one right at the beginning of around while working magic loop. Now I just did a knit one. And then we're gonna make one left. So they make one left. We're going to insert a left knitting needle point in-between the bar of the switch. We just works and the way we're about to work. And this time we're gonna go from front to back underneath that bar or from the outside of our work to the inside of our work. Now we're going to knit into the back of that loop. And now I need a place by such marker and nit Across the remaining stitches. So again, when it says nit Across the remaining stitches, we needed to go across the rest of the round. So we need to continue working across all the knit stitches on this front half of the work where our stitch marker is. Then we need to turn our work and work all the way across these back stitches. That's that one full round. Now that I've worked across both of those knitting needles back at the front of my work, which is where my three stitches are for my thumb and my stitch marker, as well as my removable stitch marker marketing my front of my work. So now the next step says to knit two rounds. So again, I'm going to knit the first needle, that the second needle that's one round. Then I'm going to do that exact same thing again. And that makes up two rounds. Then again, it's going to have me increase again. So for that next increase, we're gonna make one right at the beginning of the round. Then knit over to my stitch marker, make one left before the stitch marker, past the stitch marker and then knit across the rest of the round, the two rounds after that. So I'm going to continue working through all of these thumb increases. And eventually we're going to end up with seven stitches before our CityMarker. So once I finished, I'll be stem increase rounds. I'm going to come back and show you how to place these beginning stitches onto our wastes yarn and then cast on a new stitch while working magic loop. 6. Lesson 6 Decrease and Cast-Off Stitches While Working Magic Loop: The next step is going to be to place these first few stitches onto the waste yarn. Then we're going to need a cast on a new stitch at the beginning of the round. So first, here I just have some fingering weight yarn that I'm going to use to place these first thumb stitches onto the waste yarn. So I'm just gonna slide each one of these pearl wise. So I'm gonna take my tapestry needle into the base of each one of these stitches going from right to left, inside them off the knitting needle onto the waste yarn. Now I can also remove my stitch marker at this point. And I like to tie my waist turn into a little bow and then just took it to the inside of my work. So now when we work in the round, we're just going to be working these remaining stitches. So we're basically just going to ignore these thumb stitches over here. So first I'm gonna take my back knitting needle and pull it over towards the right. As a typically would. Now I need a cast on one stitch at the beginning of the round. So to do that, I'm going to grab onto my working yarn. I'm grabbing it on basically so that like my thumb is closest to my work, my pinky is furthest away. Now I just want to use my pointer finger. And I'm gonna move my pointer finger so it goes down below the strand of yarn towards myself. Now, up over the top to the back again. Now I'm gonna go down below back behind towards myself again. Snouts kind of like I have 1.5 loops around my finger. Now I want to take by knitting needle, my right netting needle, and I'm gonna go in between that half rap and the full rap. I'm gonna go from left to right under that full wrap around my finger, slide off my finger and onto the knitting needle. Now I just want to pull that tight. And you can see it's just like loosely twisted onto the medieval. So that's the first stitch I want to cast on. Now, I can just go into my first stitch on my left knitting needle and knit into it. And when I do this, I like to pull that first stitch. They've just cut, cast on a little snug. Now I just continue working across the rest of the round. So to show that one more time how to cast on that stitch. Again, I want to grab on to my working yarn. Now I'm gonna take my pointer finger. I'm gonna go down back behind that strand towards myself, up over the top, back to the back again, down below, towards myself again. Now I basically have 1.5 wraps around my finger. I'm gonna take my right knitting needle. Could be o in-between the two wraps. Now I'm going to slide the wrap off by finger onto the knitting needle. Now. So that's what it looks like on magnetic needle. Now just go into my first stitch on my friend netting needle. Continue working across this round. So each one of these stitches. Now that I've completed that round, I should have ten stitches on my back knitting needle and ten stitches on my friend knitting needle. So the next round we have a pearl, all the stitches. And this alternating between knitting and Perlin is what's going to create the texture in the top half of the mitten. So typically previously in this pattern, every round we started off with a knit stitch. And while we have the knit stitch, we start off with are working yarn coming up in between our two knitting needles and back, over that back knitting needle. But for a pearl stitch, We want our working yarn to be down below the center of the two knitting needles. So now I have my working aren't just coming out down below the center of the two knitting needles. Not wanna pull my back knitting needle towards the right. And now I'm going to go into that first stitch as if to Pearl. And this began pulling all the way across this round. And again, I want to Pearl across both half of the stitches. Now I'm going to continue working through the texture repeat rows. And this is where we're going to alternate between network round and Perl and round. So again, just to recap, when magic loop, when we start off with a knit round, we want our working our incoming up in between the two Knitting Mills back over that BAC mapping needle. When we start off with a pearl stitch, We want the yarn down below in the center of the two knitting needles. And that's the trick to prevent yarn overs at the beginning of each round. So now I'm going to continue working up through those texture rounds and I'll come back and show you the decrease rounds. 7. Lesson 7 Decrease and Cast-Off Stitches While Working Magic Loop: So next up we have the decreases at the top of the mountain. So one thing that's important to note is that a lot of times patterns aren't specifically written for magic loop. So it could be something like we're going to get two together then knit to repeat all the way across the round. So you would just continue working that forced them to repeat all the way across. This pattern in particular has a repeat of MIT one. We're gonna slips up, knit, knit four stitches, knit two together, knit one. Then repeat that again on the second half of the stitches. So in this case we turn our work and repeat that exact same thing again. So we work, admit one, we're gonna slip, slip knit, knit four stitches. We're going to get to the other did the final stitch. So that's how this decrease round is going to work. So again, it's a knit stitches are first itch or where he heard coming up in between the two knitting needles were going to work. Our first stitch that's just init. Next up we have a slip slip MIT. So we're gonna slip the first stitch from the left to right knitting mill as if to knit the next stitch from the left to right knitting needles if tonight, pass them both back over to the left and the middle. Now take your right knitting needle and go into the back of both of those stitches at the same time, knit them together. So what does, let's admit as essentially is it's where twisting two stitches and then we're knitting them together through the back loop. Now I'm going to knit for now we need to work a knit two together. So I'm gonna take my right knitting needle point into the next two stitches on my left and immutable as if to knit, frat my urine around, pull through. And now I need a knit one. Now it says repeat on the second half of the stitches. So I'm going to turn my work read magnetic needle back in again. And I'm going to work that exact same repeat on this side. So that's the way these mitten decreases are going to work. So now I'm gonna continue this round. So again, knit one, slip, slip knit, knit for MIT to together that one. So now I've completed that full decrease round. So now again, in between the decreased grounds, we're going to be working some more of the texture rows, so I'm gonna do those next work, my next decrease round, then there's another textural. And then lastly I'm going to come back and show you for this main portion of the mitten how to work because Kitchener stitch bind off when we're working magic loop. Now what's great about magic loop is that it's already perfectly set up for Kitchener stitch. And what I mean by that is the way we have magic loop set up, we have two knitting needles parallel to each other, Half the stitches, the first half of them on the front knitting needle, the second half of the stitches are on the back knitting needle. And that's all we need to do to set up for Kitchener stitch. So now I can cut my yarn. And I always like to leave ALL extra. So probably about two feet here. And I can thread Metabolists the needle. Now there are two set-up stitches for Kitchener stitch and then there's a force it's repeating. All of this will be written in the pattern down below. But the two setups ditches first, or we're gonna take our tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front knitting needle as if to Pearl. Leave that stitch on the knitting needle. Now we're gonna take our tapestry needle and go through the first stitch on the back knitting needle as if to knit. And when I go into that first edge on the back knitting needle, I'm going underneath the front knitting needle into that first stitch on the back knitting needle. So those are the two setups stitches. Now there's a forced edge repeat. So we're gonna take our tapestry needle, go into the first stitch on the front knitting needle as if to knit. Now we're going to slide that stitch off the front medieval. Next up we're gonna go into the new first stitch on the front knitting needle as if to Pearl. We're going to leave that stitch on the knitting needle. Now we're gonna take our tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back knitting needle. As if to Pearl. We're going to slide that stitch off the back knitting needle. And now we're going to go into the new first stitch on the back knitting needle as if to knit. Now we're going to leave that stitch on the knitting needle. So that's the force that repeat. So show briefly one more time. Go into the first stitch on the front knitting needle as if to knit. Slide that stitch off, go into the new first stitch on the front knitting needle as if to Pearl. Lead that stitch on, go into the first stitch on the back knitting needle as if to Pearl, slide that stitch off. And lastly go into the first stitch on the back knitting needle as if to knit. Leave that state, Jon Snow, I'm going to continue going all the way across this top edge. So now here at the end when I get to the point when I can't work a full repeat, I essentially just work the stitches that I can work. So I can still go into that first stitch, I front knitting needle as if to knit, slide it off. Now there is no new first it show my friend knitting neoliberal Perl, so I skipped that step. Now I go into the first stitch on my back knitting needles as if to Pearl, slide it off. Then when I weave in this end, evidence that this little bump up doesn't show some going to thread this to the inside of the work using the flow quarter spot right there. So this midden isn't blocked yet, but once you wash it, basically what'll happen is the minimal become a little bit longer and these edges will curve a bit more. 8. Lesson 8 Pick Up Stitches & Begin Magic Loop: The last thing we have to do here is work our thumb. So the way we're going to work our thumb is we're gonna put our mitten down. So the thumb is over here towards the left. Now I'm going to take my larger size knitting needle. And starting at this inner corner. So where the thumb meets the mitten, I'm going to follow along my waist yarn and pick up each one of these stitches. So first, because I have a total of seven stitches, I can't exactly divide it into two. But first I'm going to go across and pick up the first four, just following along with my waist yarn. Now once I picked up the four, I'm going to take magnetic needle, pull it towards the left. Now I'm going to flip my lessons over. And over here I'm going to pick up the next three. So is tricky to get that last one. And now you can pull the waste yarn out. Now again, I'm going to return my mittens for the thumb is over here towards the left. And now you can see that the way I've set it up, my two knitting needle points going over towards the right and my work coming out down below them. So now I'm all set up to begin magic loop again. So the first step in the thumb is going to be to rejoin our yarn. So I'm just gonna take my piece of yarn and I like to thread it to the inside of the mitten R3 here. Now again, the first, it just a knit stitch, so I'm gonna go up in between the two knitting needles than back over that back knitting needle. And the first thing that pattern says is to knit across this round. But before we finish and turn our work to begin the next round, we need a pickup one stitch from this inner edge. First I'm going to knit across these front four stitches. Now I'm going to turn my work thread in my second knitting needle. And again, going to work this out for the round. So i'm going to emit the next three stitches. And now before I turn my work to begin the next round, it wants me to pick up one stitch from this inner corner. So this dictionary we want to pick up is going to be around where we cast on one stitch over the side of the mitten. So I'm going to look for the bottom most bar that I can find in this opening. And I'm gonna take my left knitting needle point or the one that doesn't have a stitches on it right now. And I'm gonna go underneath that bar from the basically like from the left to the right or from like the top of the mountain down towards the bottom or the cuff of the Minton. And then in order to try and prevent a whole, I also like to pick up one of the bars along this stitch. So I'm just gonna go for this top bar right here. Go from front to back into that bar. Now I'm going to knit these two stitches together. That's my preferred way of picking up that sits in that inner corner. And it's going to help to prevent some of the hole but tries to form in that corner. Now again, I'm going to turn my work. Now when I turn my work, I'll have the exact same number of stitches on my front and back knitting needle. So i a force which is on the front, four stitches on the back. Now next up the patterns as to continue working round after round until the thumb measures 1.5 inches. So I am going to measure from wherever this inner corner is once I fully joined in the round and I'm going to work out for an inch and a half. So the final step is to complete the thumb decreases and this Rojo states, knit two together across the round. So we need a knit two together across our front knitting needle, turn our work and then knit two together across her back, living evil. So first on our front knitting needle, we're gonna go from four stitches down to two. And we're going to turn our work. And again on this side, we're gonna go from four stitches down to two. Now the next decrease round again says knit two together across the round. So we're going to knit across the two together across her friend knitting needle, knit two together across her back knitting needle. And once we have completed this, we're going to have a total of two stitches remaining. So here are my final two statutes. Now I'm going to break my yarn and I don't need a very long tail here just enough to weave in. So I'm going to leave about eight inches printed onto my tapestry needle. And now go in the order in which I would've met. So I'm gonna go through the next stitch or what a knit side, that one off the knitting needle. Then go through the next edge. And I'm going to pull that tight. And again, I'm gonna threat it to the inside of my work. So now the last step is just going to be to weave in all your ends. And for any holes that form in between the thumb and the rest of the mitten. Use the tail that you use to connect the yarn and begin knitting on your on the thumb to close up those ends by just following through some of the stitches. If you've any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them down below and I'll be happy to get back to you. Thanks for watching. 9. Bonus 1 Long Tail Cast On!: My favorite casts on methods or the long tail cast on and the German twisted cast on. And the reason I like these casts on methods so much is because they create a clean edge and they're also incredibly stretchy. So today I'm gonna be showing you how to work the long tail cast on. So to start, I'm gonna wind off how much yarn I need for my cast on. So it will depend on the size of your project. For this one, we only need 20 stitches, so I'm just going to have probably about a yard and a half. And the first thing I need to do is I need to create a slipknot. So to create a slipknot, I like to lay out my yarn so that my working yarn or the yarn that I'm the ball of your and then I'm getting from, is furthest away from me. And then what's called my tail or the yarn I just went off is closest to me. Now, I'm gonna take my left hand and I'm going to lay behind the strand of yarn, gonna grab onto the span of yarn with my bottom three fingers. And now I want to grab onto my working yarn. I'm going to take it back behind my finger, down to the bottom. Up the front of my finger to the top. Back behind to the bottom again. Up the front to the top, back down to the bottom. Now I want to grab onto that strand again with my bottom three fingers. So now it's essentially like I have 2.5 wraps around my pointer finger. Now, the next thing I'm gonna do is I'm going to rearrange these two loops right here to create the slipknot. So first I'm gonna take the second loop and I'm going to bring it up over the first loop. Now I'm gonna take the new second loop. I'm going to bring it up over the first loop again. And now we take that new second loop and I'm going to slide that off my finger. So now I have a slipknot. Now holding the slip knots that the tail is closest to me and the working yarn is furthest away. I'm going to take one of my knitting needles and I'm going to insert it into the slip knife going from right to left. Now when I pull on the tail, it'll tighten onto my living needle. Next step to actually work the cast on method, I'm going to put my left hand behind both strands of yarn. Again, I'm gonna grab both strands with my bottom three fingers. I like to hold onto the slip knot with my pointer finger from my right-hand too, just to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. And this slipknot does count as our first stitch, so we've already cast on one. Now I'm going to take my pointer finger of my left hand and I'm going to push back on the working yarn. I'm gonna take my thumb, push towards myself on my tail. And now I'm going to angle my hand so my palm is up towards the ceiling. Now when I move the knitting needle and first I'll just show the movement and then I'll walk you through it step-by-step. I'm essentially moving the knitting needle and keeping my hands still. So when I move the knitting needle first, I'm gonna go towards myself. I'm now in front of all those strands. Now I'm gonna go down below, up the center of my thumb. Now I'm going to move the knitting needle back towards my pointer finger. You go down the center of my pointer finger, grab onto that one strand, and now pull that strand through the loop on my thumb. Now I'm going to release with my thumb and push on the tail with my thumb again. Now I have three stitches cast dot. Now to cast on the next stitch. Again, I'm going to move the knitting needle towards myself. Underneath the thumb, up the center of the thumb loop, back towards my pointer finger. Go down the center of my pointer finger, grab onto that strand. Now pull that strand down the center of the thumb. Release with the thumb, push back on the tail, but the thumb again. So I'm gonna continue working that movement over and over again. 10. Bonus 2: How to Fix Mistakes and Rip Back Knitting while Working Magic Loop!: One thing that it's important to know how to do when working magic loop is fixing mistakes. Coat mistakes can often happen in our network. So I'm going to show you two different methods here. The first method I'm going to show you is how to work back stitch by stitch. And this method works incredibly well. If you made a mistake somewhere in the same row or row close to where you are in hitting. The second method I'm going to show you is how to take out your needing noodles. Take back your work by pulling on your yarn and then reinserting your knitting needles into your work to work magic loop again. So first, let's say here that I realized that I am accidentally knitting a second round. So right now I'm in the texture portion of meditating where it should be alternating between knitting one round and pulling one round. But now I've accidentally started working another fault net round. So to go back, I'm just going to begin going into the next stitch down below each one of the ones that's on my knitting needles. Again, passing them for my right to left mitigate beetle. Now when I want to turn my work and I need to go across the other knitting needle. I'm just going to flip my knitting meals the opposite direction. Snow magnetic needle point over towards the left. Going to thread in my second knitting needle. And now to fix the mistakes on this side, I'm gonna take my back knitting needle, going to pull it towards the left. And again, going across this side, I'm going to pick up the stitch just below each one on my knitting needle. So now back at the beginning of the round, and I could easily start now hurling into each one of those stitches instead. Now let's say I wanted to fix this mistake. Dam here were accidentally paroled to rows in a row. So what I'm gonna do here is I'm just going to pull out both of my knitting needles. And you want to do this pretty gently to not disturb the stitches too much, but I'm just gonna slide both magnetic needles out of my work. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to begin pulling on my working yarn so that each one of those stitches unravels. And I want to go down to halfway through or just about halfway through the row below where my mistake happened. So right now you can see I'm pulling out the top row of those pearl bumps. So that's the role I made, the mistake gone. So now I'm going to go down below that row to the next one down. Okay? It's now at the next one down. So now that I've unraveled that yarn, I'm going to reinsert my knitting needles. So to do that, I'm going to put my knitting needles into my work the way I typically would for magic loop, where I want my knitting needle points over towards the right. So to do that, I'm going to need to find the beginning point of my knitting and the halfway point. So for me, there's ten stitches on each side, so I'm going to count 12345678910. That is my middle point right there. You take one knitting needle and I'm just gonna go across each one of these stitches, picking them up. So there's those tendons ditches. And I'm going to turn my work over to the other side. And now I'm gonna take my other knitting needle point and I'm going to pick up the other ten stitches. Now again, you wanna double-check to make sure you have all your searches, Audio, Data Utils. Now, you can't just start working the beginning of around because where we actually left off is going to be the middle of this back knitting needle where this working yarn is coming out of. So I need to get my knitting needles back over to this position. So how I'm gonna do that is I'm just gonna slip stitches until I get back over here. So I'm gonna pull, I've made knitting setup for magic loop. I'm going to pull my back knitting needle towards the right. And now I'm just gonna slip each one of these stitches on my friend knitting needle pearl eyes. And if any of them are twisted like some of these are twisted, you can and twist them along the way. Now I'm going to turn my work refreshed and my knitting needle. And again, I'm gonna continue passing stitches until I reached where that working artists coming out of. Okay, so I have now arrived back without working yarn is coming out of, and I want this stitch with the working yarn to be over here on my right hand knitting needle. Now, all I have to do is simply continue finishing this row. So this one was the pearl row that I had done correctly. So I'm just going to finish working across this one. Some of these are twisted. That's why I'm really into the back of the loop. Now, I can turn my work and simply continue working the pattern. So now I've completely removed that second pearl row and all the rows above it. And now I can fix my pattern so I could again go through a knit this round. So I hope that you found that helpful if you have any questions or comments on how to fix your work, feel free to leave them down below.