How to Install Cove Cornice | Shellie Cleaver | Skillshare
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8 Lessons (15m)
    • 1. How to Install Cove Cornice

      0:44
    • 2. Measuring

      3:04
    • 3. How to Cut

      1:30
    • 4. Equipment

      1:15
    • 5. Cut Cornice

      3:13
    • 6. Install Cornice

      4:10
    • 7. Your Project

      0:32
    • 8. Thanks Cornices

      0:44
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About This Class

Join Shellie as she shows you how to measure, cut and install cove cornice.  This class is essential for DIY renovators and will save you so much time by showing you exactly how to do it.

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Shellie Cleaver

Visual art + academic writing classes

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Transcripts

1. How to Install Cove Cornice: Hello, My name's Shelly. Welcome to my skill share class, where I teach you how Teoh cut urine cornices. I've bought a run down town house and I've learned lots of new skills in this process. And one of the biggest jobs was putting up new cornices after I'd scraped the popcorn texture of the ceiling's. When I started the process with my dad, we didn't know how to do it, and it actually took half a day to actually get our heads around the process and the how to get the right angles for the external or internal corners. So I thought I'd make a little class so that I've been saying you guys sometime and show you just how easy these let's get started. 2. Measuring: So as I've already completed the cornices in my house, I'm just going to show you one section and I'll show you how to cut the pace for that. So imagine this piece was missing and we needed to replicate that. I'm gonna show you now had a measure which is the first step. So when you're cutting cornices and measuring cornices, there's ceiling. So the pace that runs along the ceiling and there's the pace that run runs along the wall on the bottom. You're always taking measurements from the wall. Okay, So if we wanted to cut a piece for this particular section, we're looking at 115 millimeters 115 millimeters. So I've created this diagram to help you understand how to measure to cut cornices and how to write down those measurements so that you know exactly what cuts you will need. So the first diagram shows a normal wall in a room. So it's an internal corner on the left and an internal corner on the right. And that's why I've recorded I nt for internal on the left in the middle of put the measurement in millimeters and on the right over of written I N. T. Because it's another internal corner. If you can follow this format for recording the measurements, your job will be so easy. The next diagram shows an external corner on the left and an internal corner on the right, and you can see there ever written it down as e x t the number and then i nt to reflect where the external corner is and where the internal corner is. And the final diagram shows if you have us a but cut. So where the corners comes up to a point where it's not meeting another corners, and it just needs to be a straight cut. And to do that I've written but and then the measurement. Now when you're taking the measurements, you want to be doing so from the point, which would basically be where the bottom of the corners would sit on the wall. My situation. When I was installing the cornices, I'd had popcorn texture spread on the ceiling, but also about a cornice length down the top edge of the wall. So when I'd scrape that off, it had left a line, and it actually worked out that I could align my cornices to that point so I didn't have to measure where the corners would sit. But it would be a good idea for you to go through each room and measure from the ceiling down the wall a certain length and to make sure that that is level by using a level to ensure that it is, and this will give you something to align your corners to when you're actually you've cut it, you've put the corner cement on the edges. On the back of it, you're about to push it into position, and you need to know where you're aiming at four and that it's going to be straight. 3. How to Cut: I've created this diagram to try and make it easy for you to know how to cut your corners, no matter which type of cut you're making. There are two types of cuts. There's internal and external internals when it meets in the corner of a normal room. Externals, when you have those two paces that just out from the wall and made together the one confusing aspect of cutting corners is that you must always put the ceiling edge closest to you, which means you're putting the corner seen upside down, not the way that it goes on the wall. And that means that if you if you're wanting to cut the external left edge, patient cutting is going to be on the right hand side, off the corner, off the corners. Cutter of the miter box. If I was cutting, um, right edge, I would position it on the left off the martyr. From where I'm standing, it would be on the left hand side, so hopefully this would make more sense. Do when you're actually cutting are corners and you can see what I mean in practice. But the this diagram will show you that if you want to cut internal right or an external left. Cut that direction. If you want to do an internal left or an external right, you cut the other direction. This diagram is also going to be available as a PdF under the class to help you say can print it and use it while you're working. 4. Equipment: So when cutting cornices, this is one of them tools. You come by to make your job much, much easier. There is a hand tool that you can hold directly onto a a corners. But this worked really well for May, so you can see at the top of the miter box there several cuts, the to diagnose on the right hand side. I didn't use those, but these two on the left hand side. I use those all the time, and they're the only two cuts that you need to cut all of the internal and external corners . I'll provide a diagram showing you clearly what to cut and in what direction when, so that you won't be confused when you're cutting your own cornices. Thing that makes this miter box different from any other is thes little steps. Can you see on the right hand side? There's thin pieces of timber that just go up in two steps. These are essential for cutting your cornices and for my 90 millimeter cornices, arrested it on the highest one on the right hand side. So this is the sore that I used to cut the cornices. It's fine toothed. It worked really, really well. So try and find something that works for you and gets a clean result 5. Cut Cornice: so to cut corners. The first thing I'm gonna do is I'm going to write, see at the bottom W at the top, standing for ceiling and wall. I have also written 115 millimeters on this, so I know what length it is that I've cut. So I'm positioning Thecornerscores into the martyr, making sure that it's sitting flat by checking it against the top edge, making sure it's even just sharing you. That now looks good. You'll notice there's an arrow on the miter box showing that that age always faces. May I've worked out that I'm taking and external lift cut so you can see that although the piece I'm cutting is probably to my right. If you look at it from the other side, that will be the left edge, the left external cut. So on three, there we go, a beautiful external left edge. So I'm gonna put it back into the model box, remembering to Cape Thesis Ealing edge closest to May and I need to take. This is where I measure the length that I need and I always measure on the wall edge, always on the wall edge. Just remember that So, wool edge. It's 115 millimeters, and you have to take the measurement from the furthest point away. So the peace that will actually be against the wall, um, is where you take your measurement from market in pencil and then you're gonna put the corners back in an ally in that mark with the right cutting hole in the mater. So this is going to be an external right cut. Okay, so you can see there, and now I'm going to cut through. - So we've cut through the cornice, and here we have our finished piece, a beautiful external left and external right piece which will fit beautifully in the space that we measured to show you the edges so you can see what it looks like. And that's the back. 6. Install Cornice: So this is the product that I used to adhere. The corners to my ceiling and walls. A corner cement. It's quite fast setting. If I made the mixture reasonably wet but not too runny. I had about 20 minutes working time. I think thats was a fantastic product. I found it really good to use. I was sticking the corners on two double brick walls so it wasn't actually able to hammer in a nail to help secure it up there. And so when we installed it, we just held there for for a couple of minutes, and thesis meant gripped fantastically. And as I was holding it up, they we would then wipe off the excess cause that kind of squid jizz over the edges as you push it into the wall nous and the ceiling on. Then you're able to get a wet sponge once you think it's holding and it's pretty sturdy. You get a wet sponge and you wipe it over the corners and remove all of the excess. Also, as this'll product set, it became like a kind of putty had a beautiful texture. It was really useful for filling in holes and forming um Ah, anything that had a gap or it was is very effective as it set for that sort of thing. You could achieve a beautiful, smooth finish with it. So we're ready to mix our corner cement. You really only makes enough for one length. We did manage to get enough for two, but you really pushing it in terms of the setting time. So you'll get a sense of how faster cement will set and how much you need for certain lengths. Need a good spatula of buckets and you need to have water on hand so you can either start by spring water into the bottom of this bucket. Or you can simply tip a little bit of the corners cement in and then at the water. I'm only gonna makes up a very tiny amount just to show you what it looks like and how to go about the process. So I've scattered a bit in the bottom. I'm gonna put in a little squared off water and then stop mixing. Now we'll see how looks there is quite runny. Probably going to made mawr off the corner. Cement, because it can't be watery, needs to have some body needs to be like a paste, like a thick paste. But, yeah, that's just way too runny. Let's see what adding a bit more does. It's helping, but might still need a little bit more. A good test, for what texture it is is to put it on the end of the palette knife and just see if it falls off or not. You ideally want it to be thick enough that it's hanging on to the the thespian Tchula. But if you make it to think, it's gonna set really quickly and you won't get that, um, that working time. So I think in this case, I just made it probably a little wetter than I normally would have, but it will work perfectly fine. So here I've got my piece, of course, and this is where are we putting the corner Cement. You really want a one centimeter bead along each of the edges. You have to worry so much about the actual diagonal corner bits, the the shorter edges, and there's a bit of a technique. He can get the glue onto the special A and run it across, which I've managed to miss on the film, but you'll get a sense of house who do that. You could see the glue is holding onto the corners. It's not going anywhere, and now it's ready to put up onto the wall, ese. 7. Your Project: So if you've taken this class, you must be considering installing your own cornice. So your project is to follow the steps in this class and try and stolen a pace of corners. I would like to share it on the page for this class. We can give each other feedback. If you have any questions, you're not sure of anything. Just get in touch. I'm more than happy to help if I can. Good luck with your project. And I look forward to seeing photos of what you've installed. 8. Thanks Cornices: thank you for joining me on this class about how to install your own corners. I really hope it's helped give you some clear instruction and give you the confidence to know that you can do this job yourself. You'll need another person to help you, because long lengths of corners are difficult to install on your own. But now you hopefully will be able to get your head around how to cut the corners, had to take the measurements, had a mix the cement and how to put it onto the wall so well done, and I can't wait to see what you do.