How to Draft a Sleeve Sloper in Adobe Illustrator | Casey Sibley | Skillshare

How to Draft a Sleeve Sloper in Adobe Illustrator

Casey Sibley, Pattern Designer, Artist, Maker

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11 Lessons (56m)
    • 1. Introduction

      1:31
    • 2. Record Your Measurements

      3:48
    • 3. Open the Bodice Sloper Document

      1:16
    • 4. Draft the Basic Sleeve Structure

      16:34
    • 5. Add Curves to Sleeve Cap

      11:40
    • 6. Add an Elbow Dart

      6:36
    • 7. Trace Final Sleeve Pattern

      2:10
    • 8. Walk the Sleeve Cap Along the Armscye

      6:55
    • 9. Add Seam Allowance

      1:29
    • 10. Add Sheets to Printing Layout

      2:59
    • 11. Thank You!

      0:54

About This Class

Welcome to the second class in my custom sloper series! In this tutorial, I'll  be showing you how to draft a custom SLEEVE SLOPER in Adobe Illustrator.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you haven't yet, I recommend that you watch my first class in this series before drafting the sleeve sloper. **Go to How to Draft a Bodice Sloper in Adobe Illustrator.** The sleeve is drafted using some of the measurements from the bodice sloper.

This will be a quick lesson on drafting a custom sleeve sloper to compliment your bodice sloper pattern. We'll be using Adobe Illustrator as a drafting tool and you will be able to print your finished pattern at home or with a copyshop using the same PDF formatting techniques covered in the Bodice Sloper class.

So what is a sloper?

Simply put, a sloper is a very basic, close-fitting garment without any design details that is constructed to your exact measurements.

A sloper can be used primarily in two ways:

  1. To evaluate the fit of existing patterns by comparing them to your custom sloper to identify potential fit alterations.
  2. As a base pattern--or block--for designing your own sewing patterns.

A sloper is another tool in your garment sewing and designing toolbox (and is not a necessarily a finished garment).

With your finished sleeve and bodice, you can start manipulating your sloper pattern in Adobe Illustrator to create an endless collection of custom designs for tops and dresses. You can also check out my blog series on creating custom patterns from a sloper on my website, patternscoutstudio.com.

Who is this class for?

This class is ideal for intermediate to experienced home sewers who want to draft and print their own bodice sloper pattern using Adobe Illustrator as a drafting tool. You also need a basic understanding of garment construction, as that will not be taught in this class.

We will only be drafting a sleeve sloper in this class to give you a feel for pattern drafting in Illustrator.

Who is this class NOT for?

This class is not ideal for those completely new to sewing, sewers who have no desire to draft or alter patterns, or sewers who prefer analog methods of pattern drafting. 

Additionally, you don't have to create a custom sloper from scratch at all! Many pattern companies offer sloper patterns that you can use in the same way. Just search for "bodice sloper pattern" online and you'll find many to choose from.

Will you teach me how to sew and assess the fit of my sloper?

No. This class is not a comprehensive overview of slopers, fitting principles, or sewing techniques. I won't be showing any sewing steps, only how to draft the sloper pattern. My primary goal with this class is to teach you how to draft a pattern in Adobe Illustrator.

I’ll be showing you one method of taking your measurements and translating those measurements into a sleeve sloper. There are many different ways to do this (and I encourage you to explore many resources on this topic). Today I’m showing you the methods that have worked for me.

What if I don't know how to use Adobe Illustrator?

Experience with Adobe Illustrator is useful, but not crucial, as I’ll be walking you through each step in detail as we move through drafting the sloper. And we'll only be learning the tools required for this drafting exercise.

You can get a free 7 day trial of Illustrator here: https://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html?promoid=PGRQQLFS&mv=other

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ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

The following resources have been especially helpful to me for pattern drafting and addressing fitting issues:

  • Christopher Sartorial Sloper series on YouTube
  • Made to Sew on YouTube
  • Alexandra Morgan on YouTube

And I have a Pinterest board where I save some of my favorite online sewing and fitting resources here: https://www.pinterest.com/caseydsibley/sewing-%2B-fitting/

Your local library is also an excellent FREE resource for fitting and sewing books! I am always amazed at the books that are available, and if they don't have the book I am looking for, they can get it for me. The book Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong is a great resource and I was able to request it from my local library.

ABOUT ME

You can learn more about me and my business, Pattern Scout, by going to patternscoutstudio.com and following along on Instagram @patternscout. You can also check out my other Skillshare classes by clicking on my profile photo!

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Music: "Straight" and "Erf" from Bensound

Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi. My name is Casey simply, and I'm the designer behind Pattern Scout, an indie sewing pattern company specializing in women's sewing patterns. In today's class, I'm going to show you how to create a sleeve to go with your body Sloper. And if you don't know what I'm talking about, then you need to go back and watch my first class in the Siri's How to Draft a Bought a Sloper using Adobe Illustrator. Because this class is a supplement to that class, and in this class, we're going to be using Adobe Illustrator again to draft a sleep part of this Sloper. By the end of this class, you'll have a custom, digitally drafted sleeve pattern that you can use in conjunction with your Body Sloper pattern. To create an endless array of customs selling pattern designs. You can also use these pattern pieces to evaluate the fit of existing selling patterns and see if you can pinpoint any fit alterations that you need to make ahead of time. We're only going to be working on the sleeve pattern today, but you do need your body slipper pattern because there are a couple of measurements that will take from that pattern to complete the sleep pattern and make sure that everything fits together really nicely. Once again, this is not a class about sewing or fitting. It's just a class about how to draft about a Sloper using Adobe Illustrator as a drafting tool. But I have included several Resource is for you that have been very helpful for me when it comes to fitting and designing patterns and drafting those types of things. So that's something you're interested in. Check out the class description below for more information on that. If you're ready to get started, join me the next lesson and will take three measurements to get the basic structure of our sleep Sloper. 2. Record Your Measurements: Okay, so they get started drafting our sleeve slipper. We just need to take a few measurements. And I'm wearing the same clothes fitting mitt top that I wore for the bottle slipper class just to make sure that I'm getting a really accurate measurement that's very close to my body. Um, you're also gonna need a few tools to take your measurements. So of course you'll need your trusty tape measure. Just a very basic tape measure that you can pick up just about anywhere. You're gonna need a straight edge. So I'm using this metal ruler. But you could use a quoting ruler. You could use a book. You could use a piece of posterboard, just something that we can place under the arm, like so to get a nice straight guide to use as a reference for one of the measurements, and you're gonna need some tape. Also, if you have a partner to help you take the measurements, that'll make things a little bit easier. But it's definitely not required to have a partner. You can take all of these measurements on your own. All right, so the first measure we're gonna get is the bicep measurement. So I'm just gonna take my tape measure, slide it under my arm here, grab it from the back, pull it around front and do you like So I have a 12.5 inch bicep, and I'm not pulling this too tight. Sometimes the way I'm doing this, it may look like I'm pulling it tight, but I'm not. I'm making sure that I keep it comfortably wrapped around my arm so that I'm getting a nice clothes accurate measurement. But I'm not squeezing the tape too tight. So next we want to get the sleeve length. So I've got my sleeve turned up here at the bottom because I'm actually gonna tape the tape measure to my wrist, and it just stays put better. If I don't have any sleep over that, I'm gonna pull that up just a little bit there, and I'm gonna take this to my wrist and take a piece of tape, tape it to one end there, and then I'm just gonna take this part kind of on the outer wrist with the edge of the tape measure, right about where I would want my sleeve to fall. Something to do that. Make sure it's nice and secure that I'm gonna take the tape measure put around my neck here , another piece of tape and I'm gonna take this one kind of close to the outside of my arm at the elbow. This gets a little tricky. You can do it. That there. And then I'm just gonna pull this up to my shoulder, and I'm gonna kind of put a little bend in my arm here. Not too much. And I get 24 a half inches for that measurement. And the last measurement we're gonna get is the cap height measurements. This is going to be the distance between the top of the shoulder to about the bicep line. So to do this, we're going to use our straight edge. If you want to place your straight edge right under the arm and try to make sure that it's parallel with the floor, I don't have a mirror in front of me. You want to do this in front of a mirror so you can kind of see what you're doing. Um, but I did do this earlier, so I kind of know what my measurements should be and you want to take your tape measure and you just want to place the top of the tape measure at your shoulders theme or at the bone at the top of your shoulder here and then using your mirror, you're gonna kind of eyeball where that tape measure would hit the bicep location. So when I did this earlier, I got six inches. I also have a reference book that I used to help me draft a lot of the patterns that I'm working on and drafting my Sloper. And this book here is called Pattern Making for a Fashion Design, and this book has a lot of reference measurements. But I do like to go through and just double check my measurements against the book because for the shoulder cap height, it gave a measurement of six inches, and mine was pretty close to that. So I didn't use the six inch measurement. This is just a starting point, so if we find that the measurements need adjustment later, we can do that. Okay? So joining the next lesson and we will start drafting the sleeve 3. Open the Bodice Sloper Document: with Adobe Illustrator Open. You can either create a new document over here, or you can open an existing document. And since we are building on our bodies, Sloper, we're actually going to open up the bottle slipper that we created in the previous lesson that I posted in this series. So if you haven't you haven't watched that. Listen yet. I highly recommend that you stop this video, go back and watch the bottle slipper classes because we're gonna be using some of the information from our bodies Sloper to create the sleeve. Sloper. So that said, we're just gonna go it over here? I've already got bought. A Sloper in my recent. You can also go to open and find the file on everything I'm just gonna cook on about bodice Sloper. Open this document and it's going to bring up the Sloper document that we created in my class. How to draft a bodice Sloper using Adobe Illustrator. So we've got all of this information here and now we're ready to draft the sleeve. Another note. I'm not gonna be going into quite as much detail on the tools that I'm using. I'll try to note each tool as I use it. But since I tried to be more specific about that in the bodice slipper class that will give you taking that class will give you a better overview of the tools that will be using. But I'll try toe. I'll try to remember to note things as I'm using them. Okay, let's get started. 4. Draft the Basic Sleeve Structure: Okay, So the first thing that we want to do is, um we want to lock this base layer that we've created for the bodice because we don't want toe really edit anything on that right now. And I'm gonna go ahead and leave the pattern layer unlocked, but I'm actually gonna hide the pattern layer for now because we're just gonna be working on a new base layer, and we're gonna call that be sleep basis. So if you go down here to create new layer and double click here, call this the sleeve bass player just so that we're only working on one thing at a time and we're not gonna accidentally at it any of this stuff. Okay, so I've got that created. I want to select that layer, and then let's zoom in a little bit here so you can see here. I've got my bodice base layer that I created in the other class in the series, and I'm just gonna kind of move off to the side here, so have a little space to work in and start working on the sleeve base layer. So the first thing that you want to record is our sleeve length, and you're gonna need your worksheet nearby so that you can record all of your measurements into this base layer. So we're going to first record our sleeve length. So let's go over to our line tool here, uh, the line segment tool. If you just click on that. And if for some reason that's not up, just remember, you can click and hold to bring up all of the tools in that tool set, and that one is selected. So let's do. Let's just click here in space to give ourselves enough space that will be the top of our line. And my sleeve length is 24 a half inches, so I'm gonna type in 24 0.5 and this is pointing downward. But we want to make sure that this is directly straight up and down. So I wanna type in to 70 here just to make sure that that is perfectly straight up and down and click. OK, so now I've got a line here on my sleeve base layer, and that should be exactly 24 a half inches long. So if you click on that and you look in your properties over here, you'll see that the height of this is 24 a half inches. And if for some reason you don't see your properties box here this menu you can just go up to a window and make sure that properties has checked. And you can do that with any of your windows that you don't like. If there's a window that I'm mentioning and you don't see it, just go to your window menu item appear and make sure that it Z checked here in this list. Okay, So like we did on our bodies, Sloper, I want to label these points, and this is just for my reference just to show you guys where we're working from. But I do think that this is actually pretty helpful. Even if you're doing this just for yourself. I think it's just nice to have those points to look back on. So we're gonna create some little dots to use as reference points. I'm gonna click on the rectangle tool of here and cold, and then I'm gonna come and grab the Ellipse tool. And that brings up this little cross here. Here. I'm gonna cook out in space. So click, one time. I'm going to make this 1/4 inch, 2.25 by 0.25 circle. Okay. And now I've got my little point there. I'm gonna zoom in a little bit, and I'm just pressing command and plus or control. And plus, if you're on a PC, grab that in the center. I'm gonna move that directly to that point. Was he not a little bit. And then I'm gonna pressed on the altar key, click and drag to create a copy. And, um, and in Japan. And remember, I'm pressing the space bar to bring up my little hand, and then I just click and drag, so I'm gonna drag this down to this point here. All right? Is he mad? A little bit. Let's go ahead and save Trying to be better about saving. I'm usually not great about saving my documents. It's a bad habit. Okay, um, someone I renamed these points A and B. I'm selecting my type tool here. Click here. Next to that point, that was gonna be a to make this a little bit bigger just so that we can see it on screen. when I'm zoomed out Doesn't really matter how big right now. Just big enough to see it. Move that there, Zoom out a little bit and I'm going to again. Hold on the awlaki click and drag to put that down here and I'm gonna rename this one be and those are sleeve length. So the next thing we want a mark is our cap height. So I'm going to actually draw a line from point A. I'm just gonna draw a straight out here and I'm gonna hold down the shift key said that that line stay straight, and then I'm just gonna move that line from the center point straight over the top of that line centred. And as you can see, it disappeared when I clicked off of it. So I just need to add a stroke to that line. I'm gonna click it, and I'm gonna give it a one point stroke. Sometimes that happens, and it just depends on if you've clicked on something recently that didn't have a stroke. I'm not sure exactly why that always happens, but sometimes it defaults to know stroke. Um OK, so that's the top of our cap and for my cap height. I recorded six inches, so I'm gonna control shift and M to move, and I'm gonna move that six inches, and it's gonna be positive six inches, because remember moving, moving things vertically. When you move things down, it's in the positive direction. And when you move things up, it's in the negative director direction, which is a little bit counterintuitive. But since removing this down, I'm gonna do six inches regular positive six inches, and I'm going to copy that. And now we have our cap height, and I'm gonna label this point. See, I'm not gonna worry about putting a little circle there. I'm just going to call that see, and I'm gonna move that down, all right? And so that's gonna be our bicep location. So let's go ahead and label that bicep just for reference. So you just click out here, I label that bicep there. Okay, Next we want to mark the elbow location, and so we're just going to pick a default location. It's 1/2 between Point C and B. So if we took a line and drew from point C down to point B, that line is 18.55 inches, and so we want to do half of that. And as you can see, these lines, actually, let me zoom in a little bit because it looks like I didn't quite get on. See there. Okay, so should be 18.5 inches. You can see you get, like, a little Centrepoint here. So I'm just going to grab this line here, and I'm gonna hold down the all key. I'm gonna bring it down until it snaps right in the center there. Okay, If you click on this line, you can see that little center point is right there. So this is not quite where the elbow is going to be for this draft. So now we want to do is actually move this point up by 3/4 of an inch. So I'm gonna command shift em to move it up vertically. Negative 0.75 inches, which is 3/4 of an inch. And since we're moving it up, it's negative. So I'm gonna click, Okay? I don't really didn't want to worry about copying that on, and that's gonna be our elbow location. So if I just click on this spice up here, Ault click brings down and then I'm gonna double click in there and rename that elbow, and I'm gonna mark this point as D double click Andy. So now is when we are going to refer to our bodice Sloper to get the arm hole measurement and start building our sleeve cap. And this this left side is gonna be the back of the sleeve and the the right side will be the front of the sleeves. First, let's record the back arm hole measurement. So if we command and minus or control minus to zoom out a little bit here to our bodies, Sloper, zoom in a little bit Control and command And plus, to do that two seam in. And, uh, first we're gonna do the back arms I length. So we go over here to our back bodice, make sure that you are doing the back first and not the front, because I did this the opposite direction the first time I filmed this video and had to re film it. So we're gonna do the back arm side first on the front. Bottas has the bus starts. So that's how you condemn Ference. She ate those. So, first, we're going to get the length of this arms. I and we're just going Teoh, unlock the base layers that we can We can click on these items and you'll notice Here we have this dark that we created on the back bodice and at the arms I So we want to make sure that we're just getting the length of the arms I when the dart is closed, so we will not be taking into account the length of these two little portions here inside the dart. So if you click on both of these objects, you can go over to document info, which is this little piece of paper looking icon with an eye on it. You click on that and you want to make sure that you have object selected. So if you click on this little menu here and make sure the objects is checked and now that will give us the overall length right here, 8.59 to 1 inches of the two pieces that we have selected and I'm just gonna call this 8.6 inches. So in a click off of that zoom out pan back over here and zoom back into my sleeve Sloper structure. And I'm going to create a line using the line tool that is 8.6 inches. And I'm just going to start that line by clicking on point A here and type in 8.6. The angle does not really matter that much right now because we're just gonna be rotating this after we make the line. But I am gonna pull this down a little bit just so that it's kind of more in our frame here , um, and then click. OK, and as you can see, it placed it on the wrong layer. I can I know this because it's highlighted the wrong color because I was working in that sleeve base layer. So I'm just gonna, uh, cut this Command X and I'm gonna go over to my layers and I'm gonna make sure that I had this leave base layer selected, and I'm gonna command shift to be to pace that in exactly the same place, but on a different layer. And I'm actually gonna go over here and just lock the bass player for the bodice slipper that we created, and I'm going to rotate this line now. So I'm gonna leave it selected and I'm gonna tap are on the keyboard. Or you could go here to rotate. I'm gonna select Point A is my center of rotation, and I'm just going to select the other side of this line and rotate it until it meets up with the bicep line. Panama, zoom in here sometimes a little trial and error. Um, I'm just gonna rotate that down until it until it meets up with that. Okay, Now we're gonna do the front arm side length, So let's zoom back out pan up here to our bought a Sloper, and we're gonna do the same thing. Except this time, we're going to select the front arms I to get that length, someone unlocked the base layer here and click on the document info. Make sure the objects has selected. Looks like it is okay. And then the link for that is 8.8774 inches. And I'm just gonna do 8.8 inches for this. So I'm gonna click off of here. I'm going to pan back down to my sleep structure and draw another line in the same way I did before. This time, no one. And make sure that I have the correct layers selected. I'm gonna lock this base layer. This is the bass player for the bodice slipper. Gonna make sure that I'm on the sleeve base layer and I'm gonna select my line segment tool , Click on a and type in 8.8 inches and click. OK, again. The ankle doesn't matter as much. I just don't really want it directly on top of the other ones. Something's gonna pull this over a little bit, so it's easier to crab. Okay? And I've got that selected. I'm gonna rotate that again. I just hit the letter R, click inside of point a click the other end of this line and rotate that up to the bicep line. Zoom in, make sure that I get it right on there. This takes a little trial and error and it looks about right. Quick office, that girl. And now we have the front and the back arms I length transferred Teoh our sleep cap. So now we just want to check our bicep measurement against the measurement here between the two points of the sleeve cap where they meet the bicep. And my bicep measurement was 12.5 inches. So let's just see where this ended up. Take my line tool here and measure across. I get 12.59 inches, which is really close. That's 12.6 inches. You do want to have a little bit of ease there. Just that you can get your Sloper over your arm. Um, you don't need a lot. And actually, with that being 12.6 inches, I'm happy with that. I'm gonna leave that the way it is. Um, if you did need to just get rid of this line. If you did need to make this a little bit bigger, you can You can kind of play around with the placement of this line may be extended out just a little bit further, but I wouldn't I wouldn't mess with that too much right now, so let's go ahead and label are two points here where the cat means that by September, call these points e and F. I'm just gonna copy. Well done. All key click and drag to copy That of here called that he's and do the same thing call this one F, and I'm going to go ahead and add my little dots here. So 0.255 point 25 Okay, Music man, actually. So if you get your if you have something that comes up like this and it doesn't feel all you have to do is over here to the left. You can see you've got your fill in your line, your stroke. You can just do a little red line through that and then click on that. And you include this little box right here. It'll it'll add the color that you have selected to your stroke. Okay, there's gonna drag this over here and then copy one over here. All right, so now we want to finish the sides of our sleeve here, and we know that our sleeve length is this line here. I'm gonna go ahead and copy this line the elbow line down to B, which will become our wrist line. Okay. And then I'm just gonna draw line straight down from point e, someone click on E and drag and hold down the shift key. So it goes straight down to the wrist here and let's go ahead and label the wrist dragged back down and just Ault, click and drag. Call us the wrist, OK? And I'm gonna do the same thing on this side. Just going to click and drag holding down the shift key. So go straight down and release it there at the wrist. Okay, um, we don't really want this to be just straight up and down, so we're going to move these points at the bottom here in just a little bit. We're gonna do two inches on each side. So we wanted to basically to be two inches in from point E down here at the risk level. So if we get are direct selection tool, which is this little white arrow here and we click here, we can do command, shift in or control shipped in. And we're not gonna move in any direction vertically. Someone a do a zero there and then horizontally. We're just going to move it two inches to the right. So it'll be a positive direction. Let's preview that. Make sure that's where we want to go. Okay. And click. Ok, All right. So here is our other line here, which for some reason, did not show up. Let's give that a stroke of one point ends. We're going to the same thing with that one. So with the direct selection tool, we're going to click that point there. Just make sure that one point is selected. Command shift em. And this time we're moving it in the left directions that we're going to a negative two inches and click. OK, okay. So now we have the basic framework for our sleep, and we need to add a few more details. In the next lesson. I'm going to show you how to add some curvature to your sleeve cap so that you can more easily fit it onto your sleep, because right now this is not a functional sleeve. So join me the next lesson and I'll show you how to add the curves to the sleep cap. 5. Add Curves to Sleeve Cap: The first thing that we want to do is we want to divide these two lines in 2/4. To do that, I'm just going to click on this line and I'm gonna go over to the document info, make sure that I have my object selected. And this line is 8.8774 inches. And I want Teoh. Find half of that. And I could just move a line down to the center here. But let's just use a little bit of Matthew or something. Go back to my calculator. Eight point. What was it? 8.778 point 8774 Okay, 8.8 774 divided by two. And that is 4.4387 under, say, 4.44 inches. Okay, that'll be easy to deal with. So I'm gonna take this point here. I'm gonna click on that, and I'm gonna do command shift him and we're gonna move this 4.44 inches doesn't really matter which direction, but we do want to make a copy of that. So I made a copy of that, and then I'm just going to rotate that I'm gonna leave that selected. I'm the next select are where I can go over here and select Rotate the rotate tool. Gonna click on point A as my center of rotation. I'm gonna make sure I grab the center of that. I'm just gonna rotate this over until it matches up with the center there. Okay, So now I'm gonna do the same thing to get these other two points and get our for different sections. And so that was 4.44 That's a little bit of easy math. So the half of that would be 2.22 inches. So again, I'm gonna select this point here. I'm gonna do command shift in 2.22 inches and copy. And again, I'm gonna rotate. Select my center of rotation here, man. Deism in a little bit, assuming just a little bit more. Make this easier on ourselves. Something like that is my point of rotation. And I'm going to rotate that there and then do that one more time. 2.2 to copy rotate. And that there. So now I've got four sections here, and I'm gonna do the same exact thing on the front here, but I'm not gonna torture you with all of the different measurements. So I'm gonna do the same exact thing over here that I did on the back. I'm gonna do it on the front. Now we want to add a little bit of curvature to our arm side. But let's go ahead and label each of these points just to kind of keep ourselves organized . Um, I'm gonna label this one point G. This is actually gonna make this a little bit smaller here. Let's bump the size down. That seems just, like, really huge. I'm gonna call this one point K. I'm just gonna skip over, Um, I and J since those labels kind of look similar. So we're gonna go to call this point K. So we're gonna grab the line tool the line segment tool here and from point G. We're gonna come out 3/8 of an inch. So what we're gonna do with this is we're just gonna click once inside the circle, and I'm gonna say 3/8 and I'm gonna leave that there for now. I'm gonna click, OK? And actually, that did not have a stroke. So I get that a stroke, and then I'm gonna rotate that line from point G. First, I'm gonna rotate it, too. Be right on top of this main arm, whole length line, and then I'm gonna rotate it again. I've still got the center of rotation on point G when rotated again. But I'm gonna hold down the shift key, and that's going to give me a perfectly perpendicular line there. And I actually want to rotate this to this to the interior, so I'm gonna rotate that around. But again, I'm holding in the shift key and that just keeps everything perfectly. It rotates things at more standard angles, I think. 45 90 degree and 45 90 degree angles. Okay, so that one's 3/8 of an inch Now at point H, I'm going to come out to the exterior of this, leave by 1/4 inch. So his same exact thing. Click inside point H 0.25 inches. I cook. Okay, I'm gonna rotate this so that it's right on top of that line there so that I could get a more accurate perpendicular measurement from there. So again, I'm gonna rotate to begin hold down the shift key and that will be perpendicular straight out there. Okay, Now I'm gonna do one for point K. That was gonna be 587 inch to the exterior of this leave. So let's do the same thing. You know, sometimes I type in the actual fraction and sometimes type in the decimal. Because some of these I remember off the top of my head and some of my dull and illustrator will create the fraction for you. If you type it in, it will create the decimal for you. It'll it'll understand what you mean. Point l I'm gonna come out 3/4 of an inch. Now I'm moving over to the front of the sleeve cab at point M. I'm gonna come out 3/16 of an inch to the exterior of this lead cap, and then it point in, I'm gonna come in by 1/2 inch. So when a click inside here. So now we've created some points for us to start aligning our curves for our sleeve cap. Okay, So here's we're gonna use our French curve template again. And if you took the bottle slipper class, you should have that already available to you. If not, you can get that in the bottle slipper class. So I'm just gonna I'm gonna create a little copy and drive up here, zoom in. And again, this is one of those steps. There's so many things about drafting an illustrator that are a lot easier than drafting by hand. But this is one of those that takes a little bit more trial and error to get it just right . But we're just gonna use our French curve to start creating the curved lines for our sleeve cat and start by turning this around, I'm actually gonna flip this to the other side. So I'm gonna right click, transform, reflect and click. OK, so first we want to want to kind of fatter end here at point E. And you can see you're going to start kind of playing around with the placement of this rotating it just like we did for the arms. I curve in the body slipper class and you're gonna just it's gonna take a little trial and error, but you're gonna You wanted to basically touch all these points. You wanna touch point e point G and 0.0.0.8 and then we're gonna flip it and have the more fatter curbside on the top and then connect from point A to K to H and try to get a nice smooth s curve in there. And they were going to the same thing for the front. So I'm gonna do that now, I'm gonna kind of move a little bit more quickly through this part. And actually, one thing that you can do here is you can you can copy this, and I'm gonna go and just make a copy of this just so I can kind of keep that there, because I'm gonna draw on top of this eventually, but I actually want to do it all at the same time. So I'm gonna leave that when they're gonna copy a new one. And I'm going to just rotate it around and get the top here, and you kind of want to get the two French curves to be tangent to one another. So it's still got a little bit of a gap in here and like, I would like Teoh fix that. But I'm just going to kind of keep playing around with this, okay? Like that a little bit better. Look at the back situated here. Now I want to do the front. And before I do that, I'm gonna actually go ahead and draw the back curve here. And I'm just gonna move these out of the way just so that doesn't get too crowded on here. So I'm gonna make sure that I am on the sleeve base layer. I'm gonna lock the French curve layer so that I don't end up at a being that French curve at all. And I'm going to draw with my pen tool here, just the regular pin tool. Um, I'm gonna kind of first do it kind of rough just around here just to kind of get the basic line ready, and then I'm gonna move everything into place. I'm just grabbing these anchor points and I am moving them to the actual points that we created coming out from these little circles so you can't have toe pay attention to what you're connecting to. But you can see this line here that we created at Point H. I've got the anchor point selected and placed on there and then into the same thing here for point e. And then I'm just gonna use my handles here to start to shape that curve. If you just click on the anchor point that handles will come up and they can click on the edge of the handle there and start shaping that curve, and that's it's pretty close. Okay, so I got that side placed just at that a little bit more. Okay, that's pretty close. All right, now I'm going to let's just turn off the French curve for a second, and so you can see I've got thestreet of my curve there. Okay? Now we're gonna do the same thing for the front arms I. And when you're selecting these grouped objects here for the French curve, you want to make sure that you're using the Black Arrow. This is the regular selection tool. The White Arrow would select items within that, and you might end up moving things around. So and you can grab these two together, just hold on, shift in, select. And then we're gonna just transform those and reflect so that now they're facing the other direction. Look OK, and feel easier to get those tow line up by doing that. So she can get that in there. That'll give me a good starting place, and then I can kind of go in there, start editing those, Okay? I'm pretty happy with that. So now I'm gonna go back over to my sleeve base later, I'm gonna lock the French curve layer, and I'm gonna create my other curved line here again. I'm just kind of the reason that I'm actually creating this line out here is because I don't want it to automatically connect to any of my other lines. Yet I kind of want all of this to be separate so I can manipulate it a little more easily because I clicked right on the point of this line with my line tool. It's going to continue that line. So I'm just trying to keep things separate for now because I'll eventually connect everything when I do the final pattern layer. Okay. And that looks pretty good. Let's turn off the French curve layer. And so now we've got our basic sleeve cap figured out there 6. Add an Elbow Dart: Now we're gonna make a few more adjustments to complete this leave. You can leave your sleeve just like this if you want to, if you're just doing kind of a basic shirt sleeve. But if you want to get a little bit more accurate sleeve, especially for woven fabric where you wanna capture some of the bend in your arm, we want to add a little bit of a dart here a the elbow. And this is also useful if you're creating a two piece leave, especially when you're when you're creating jackets. It's nice to include that dart in there so that you can more accurately represent the curvature of the arm. So the first thing that you want to do is we want to extend. We want a mark, a line that is 1/4 inch out from the edge of this leave here at this point. So I'm actually just gonna label this point as 0.0, let's use one of our little circles here. Copy that down two point. Oh, and I'm gonna move this command shipped em. Um, I'm gonna move horizontally, negative 00.25 inches, and then I make sure that I'm not moving it in any vertical direction, so I'm just gonna put that a zero and click. OK, so we've moved out of quarter inch, and we also want to record the halfway point between point. Oh, and point D here in the center. So let's just draw a line from the middle of that point to point D and we get 5.87 I'm just gonna call this 5.9 controls the out of that. So that's 5.9 and then half of 5.9. Let's let's get out. Calculator here is to make sure I don't mess this up. So 5.9 divided by two is 2.95 So let's select that point. Control. Shift em, and we're going to do 2.95 we're gonna do in the positive direction, since we're gonna move it to the right here horizontally. No vertical movement, and we're gonna copy that. Okay, so let's label that point. Point P, copy this over and call that p. All right, so now we're just gonna draw a line from pointy two point. Oh, with our line segment tool. Okay. And then I want to make sure that has a stroke stroke to that. And then I actually want Mark another point. That is another inch below this point. Oh, here. So I'm gonna select that control shift in, and I'm going to say one inch. I'm not gonna worry about the angle right now and copy. Um and just to make sure that's accurate, I'm gonna rotate that back so that it's right here on this line that I rotated again. Hold on a shift key so that it ends up right in line with that. So that's one inch below point. Oh, along this line that we drew from point a to point. Oh, now I just want to draw connecting line from this point to point p. Actually gonna go ahead and label this point, Q Okay, so from point Q two point p. I've drawn the line there and you can see we're starting to get a dart here. Okay, so it's got that started. Let's zoom out here and I want to actually go ahead and create a point here. Someone a copy this over to create this point. This is gonna be a point. Are Okay, so point are. I want to use this to create a point that is 3/4 of an inch in to the sleeve. So I'm going to control shift in and move that 3/4 inch in the horizontal direction to the right and copy. Okay. Now, um, I'm going to get the distance between this elbow point here, down to the wrist, and I've got 10.6 inches. I'm gonna call that 10 inches, so I'm going to create a line that is 10 inches from point Q. That goes through its label. This point s down here. Okay, Someone draw line 10 inches. I'm just gonna click inside point Q. Ah, and that's already a 10.6 inches. So I'm gonna just go ahead and select, okay? And I'm gonna rotate this line with the point Q as a center of rotation. Just gonna rotate that until it is right in the center of point s there. Because basically what we're doing is let's give this a stroke. Actually, basically what we're doing is we've created this dart here. We've got this separation here, and we basically kind of cut here and rotated down, So we want toe regain that link that we took out with the dart. So we're basically transferring this distance down to here. But since this is the same distance is this we know that we can get that measurement here too. So now we've got the new wrist location on the back part of the sleeve down here, and let's call this point t. So I'm gonna move this. Copy it down to this end here. Okay, Soon. Back out. Just commanded. Minus. And since we shifted this over, we actually want to maintain the the width down here that we originally had. So it's gonna kind of shift everything over here over Aziz. Well, so we're going to measure from point are to this point here at the edge of the wrist. Measure that out. We got 8.71 inches. OK, so I'm going to just click inside point T It already comes up is 8.71 But it didn't. You just type that in here and I'm gonna click. Okay, then I'm going to rotate this using point t as the center of rotation, and I'm just going to click and drag this until it hits this risk point here, Okay? And then I'm going to label that point, you point. You okay? Just put that down a little bit. Just use the arrow keys there to nudge it down. I'm gonna connect. Point you back to the elbow line here, So let's just get that a stroke. Okay? Zoom out. So now we've got our basic sleeve structure here and in the next lesson will just go ahead and draw are finished, sleeve. 7. Trace Final Sleeve Pattern: Now we just want to trace the outline of our finished pattern for the sleeve, and then we'll also walk the sleeve cap along the bottom slope or to make sure that everything is sized properly. So let's turn back on the pattern layer. And if you zoom out, you'll see that the pattern layer turns on and off. It'll turn on the pieces that we created in the first lesson here for our printing pieces, but we're gonna zoom back into the sleeve here, and we're just gonna work on top of the sleeve. And we want to make sure that we're drawing on the pattern layer. So gonna just get this kind of centered in here but the pattern layer selected, and I'm actually gonna lock all of these other layers just to make sure that I don't shift anything around when I'm drawing my sleeve pattern, gonna grab the pin tool. And I'm just going to start clicking and shaping to create asleep. And since I have turned off, all of those other are locked, all of those other layers. I don't have to worry about accidentally connecting this to the wrong line. It's just creating its own line I'm going to get right now. And I'm just clicking and dragging, and I'm gonna go through and connect all of the dots and and once you get that drawn in and you kind of come in here and do a little fine tuning it into some I just kind of make this curve a little bit more pronounced there. Okay? And I'm happy with that's when assume l. So now I'm gonna turn off the base layer and you can see I've got the basic sleeve pattern . And remember, this does not have any seam allowance on it yet, so we'll add that later. But we can see that we've got our basic sleep outline here, and that is finished. 8. Walk the Sleeve Cap Along the Armscye: Now we're gonna want to walk the sleeve along the bodice, Sloper. So I'm gonna zoom out here. I'm actually gonna turn off the base layer here that I created in my first Sloper pattern. That turns up all of that. So now I just got my pattern pieces showing here. Okay? No, come back in a little bit. I'm gonna select this. I'm actually just gonna copy this, so I'm gonna ault click and drag to create a copy that sleep because I don't want to edit anything. I just want to walk this along the lot of Sloper just to make sure everything fits. So now I'm going to walk the sleeve along the arm, side on the front and the back. So remember that the left side of the sleeve represents the back of the sleeve and the right side represents the front. So we're gonna start with the back, and I'm just gonna select it here at this, um, anchor point where the sleeve cap meets the bicep and I'm going Teoh, move that until it lines up. With that point there at the bottom of the arm side on the back bodice. We were doing the back bodice first, and you can see my little arrow turns white. Once I lined it up, they're gonna zoom in a little bit and I'm just gonna start walking this leave. And to do that, I'm just going to select the Rotate Tool. And I'm gonna put my center of rotation here on this this in pointe work of these two meeting and I'm going to rotate this around and I'm gonna continue rotating this and moving my center of rotation as I go. So a zoom in a little bit here, you can see I'm just rotating, and then I'm re clicking to move my center of rotation, and I'm gonna continue doing that. And then I'm gonna stop here when I get to the notches, because I want to record those notches. So I'm gonna select my line segment tool, and I'm gonna put too notches here, and I'm going to shift to select both of those notches and the sleeve, and I'm gonna put those in a group so you can do control G, or you can just right click and group those together. Okay, so now I've got those group together, and I'm gonna continue walking this leave so rotate but my center of rotation here and keep moving along. Now I want to stop here again where this dart is on the back of the sleeve. And I'm just going to make sure that I'm grabbing this group sleeve right here where it meets the dart on the back of the arms. I and I'm just gonna move that straight up to the other leg of that dart on the arms I so that I can kind of eliminate, cause that when this is sewn, obviously this dart will be sewn closed and you will not have this extra space in here. I'm gonna continue walking to sleeve using the same rotate technique. And then once you get to the shoulder seam, you're gonna stop again. I'm gonna actually double click on this just to get inside of this group editing mode for this leave and I'm gonna put another notch on do it. Kind of like a little short notch here. So that's gonna show me where that met up with the shoulder seam. Okay, I'm gonna double click out of here just to get out of group editing mode and because I created that in the group editing mode. Now it's a part of that group, so I'm just gonna move out of the way I've got the back arms I walked. I know where it stops at the shoulder seam. Now I'm gonna do the same thing on the front arms I marking the notch and marking where it meets up with shoulder. So now I've got my sleeve marked with notches and showing where it meets each of the shoulder seams on the front in the back. And I want to back this up and I'm gonna move this back over on top of the original arm Original sleep. And I'm just gonna make sure this all lines up. Someone put it there, I may have to rotate it back into place. So I just blinded up at that anchor point they're gonna do rotate, and I'm just going to line that back up. Okay, Okay. So if I turned back on my sleep base layer here, you can see the center line of my sleeve was right here, and we zoom in. I've got these two notches here that indicate where it met up with the shoulder seams and there are differing schools of thought on this particular topic. But in general, the way that I like to do this lead is to have a little bit of ease in the sleeve here. So you want to aim for approximately an inch to an inch and 1/2 of ease here. I do think that a little bit less is better. So on the on the lower end of that spectrum is probably better, because it does make the arm side a little bit easier to line up with the arm hole, in my opinion. So let's just measure between those two months, two notches just to get a rough idea where we are more 20.89 inches and that's actually pretty good. I'm actually pretty happy with that. So I think that that is a nice, accurate sleeve cap length, and you might want to actually move your center in between those two marks just to kind of even out that Senator lines. So you're gonna wanna mark your center notch right in the center of those two notches, so let's actually go back to our sleep base layer. Let's unlock that and let's just move this over. You kind of eyeball it, um, going to Actually, what we'll do is we'll be here and then 0.89 Let's just say 0.9. So let's say we move it 0.45 negative 0.45 inches to the left and okay, And that should be the center of your sleep. And if we turn off this sleeve base layer and we do our mark, let's go back in here or double click and we're gonna put a mark right in the center there for our top of sleep. And you can actually get rid of these two marks here. I don't really need those. And let's get out of editing mode, their group editing moves, trying to sleep later, back on sleep base layer. Isn't it a little bit here? And I'm just gonna line this up with where we put our center of sleeve. So returning the sleep base layer back off. Now we have our sleeve with notches 9. Add Seam Allowance: and the last thing they want to do is add a seam allowance. So, as I showed you in the bodies slipper class, we're going to use the exact same way you want to select the line that you wanna create a seam allowance around. I'm actually, since this is all a group, I'm actually going Teoh, double click this to open up the group's eso that I only select this continuous line that represents the outside of the sleeve and not these little notches. So I got that selected. I'm going to go to object and pass, and then I'm going to offset path. And I want to do 0.6 to 5 because that is a five eights inch seeming violence. That's what I used on my body. Sloper, let's preview that. It looks pretty good, OK? And then we can kind of just clean this up over here on the end, and I'm gonna actually just do if you get the minus sign, it will bring up the remove anchor point pen tool, and I'm just going to click on that one to remove it. Okay, hands that is are finished leave pattern and in the bottom slipper class also showed you how to create your printing template. So I'm gonna just select this and move it over here, and I'm going to rotate this this way. And I'm gonna actually add a few more sheets so that I can add this to my printing template and then that'll be ready to print. 10. Add Sheets to Printing Layout: Now that we have our sleeve pattern ready to print, I'm just going to add some sheets here to our printing template and print that. So to do that, I'm just going to click on the art board tool. And I'm going to select one of these sheets that I've already created. Actually, this, um, 24 by 36 sheet is kind of giving me trouble. Here we go. OK, so if you cook on the actual label, it'll still like those sheets. I'm just gonna select these bottom three here on a click and then select Ault and then dragged that until it meets up there below. It'll kind of snap into place, do the same thing. Actually, before I do that, I'm going to click off of that. Select this one when I click on Hit Ault and drag until it snaps there. And then I'm gonna shift and select these four ault or click first and then Ault. Sometimes it does a little funky. I'm hold down the shift key to to keep everything straight and dragged those down. So now created eight new sheets for my sleeve pattern and I just want to duplicate these guys and bring all of that down. Um, and I won't go into too much detail about that. But basically, I'm just I want to make sure that my guide slayer is not locked. I'm just going to put this down here and copy these down. These are just my guide lines that created when I was making the bodice Sloper. And then I'm gonna pull those over, and then once you get all of these guide to set up, you'll want to go through and remember each of these little dots for alignments. Or however you want to do that. I'm not gonna go through that right now since I did that in the bottle slipper class. But now you have your other sheet set up so that you can print to pdf or you can print directly from illustrator. But I do recommend that you print, uh, to pdf first, and I'm just going to actually copy. See, I would make sure on the pattern layer, and then I want to make sure that I add that this is the sleep, okay. And in the bottom slipper class, since I didn't do ah sleeve on that class, I don't have the notches here, but you want to make sure that when you are creating the sleeve Sloper that you add your notches to your front and back Bata slippers as well. And that's basically it, um, for printing tutorial. Go back and watch the body slipper class. I go in a lot more detail on that in that class, but that's basically it. So you have a sleeve that you can add to your bought a Sloper and will help you create shirt patterns and jacket patterns just a lot that you can do with the Sloper. 11. Thank You!: I want to thank you so much for joining my class. I really appreciate you being here and watching, and I'm just really happy you're here. So if you want to check out any of the other classes that I have available, you can just click on my profile picture here on skill share, and that will take you to a list of everything that I have available, including the bodice labor class. I've also got classes on surface pattern design, creative entrepreneurship and wholesale. So if those things that you're interested in, there's definitely some stuff to dig into. Over there you can see Maura about me and my business pattern Scout at Pattern Scout studio dot com. Or you can check me out on Instagram at Pattern Scout, where I'm always sharing. Resource is around selling, and I also post updates when I released new products and new classes. So definitely check me out in those places to see what I'm up to and thank you again for following along and watching the class, and I hope to see you in the next one. OK, bye.