How To Seal Your Alcohol Ink With Resin | Sarah Trafford | Skillshare

How To Seal Your Alcohol Ink With Resin

Sarah Trafford, Designer

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8 Lessons (28m)
    • 1. Working with resin intro

      0:59
    • 2. Setting up your artwork

      2:42
    • 3. Mounting yupo on a wood canvas

      4:47
    • 4. Trimming your art work

      2:26
    • 5. Resin Safety

      6:05
    • 6. Prepping for resin

      1:14
    • 7. Applying resin

      8:30
    • 8. Finishing touches

      1:34
16 students are watching this class

About This Class

If you've seen my previous class on creating alcohol ink art work this will come in handy! In this class I show you how to complete your art work by mounting the yupo paper on a wood canvas board and sealing with resin. All supplies needed are listed in the Class Project.

Transcripts

1. Working with resin intro: Hey everyone, welcome to my tutorial today I'm going to show you how you can take your alcohol ink piece and finish it off with resin. I have another tutorial on how to actually create the alcohol ink piece, so I will make sure to attach that below, so you can check it out if you didn't see that already and that's what I'm currently doing in the background, is just creating my alcohol ink piece to work with throughout this tutorial. I started on a really large piece of [inaudible]. I'm just doing this really quick so that you get an idea of where I started, but if you actually want to see the details on how to mix the inks and whatnot, just check out that tutorial and come back here when you're ready. 2. Setting up your artwork: I've let my alcohol-ink piece dry and now I need to attach it to a panel. I have this 10 by 10 Galleries Style Painting Panel. It is a cradle board and it is one and a half inches deep. I bought it from Curry's and was roughly between $8 or $10, and I'm not really sure where on the piece I want to place it. To get a better idea of where to cut out the piece, I'm actually going to use the panel to trace out the size on a piece of paper. I taped two eight and a half by 11 sheets together on the 11 inch side, and then just used a pencil to trace the size of the 10 by 10 panel. Now, I'm just going to cut that out from the center, so all of the border is still intact. I'm using just a cutting mat and the knife I'll be using throughout this video to cut the YUPO paper as well. Once I have that border, I'm just going to place it on top of my artwork and move it around to see which part of the artwork, actually I want to cut out and use with the resin. Once I figure out where I want to cut, I'm going to actually cut about an inch around the paper border so that it ends up being 11 by 11. The reason why I want to have an extra inch pass the 10 by 10 canvas is because it just allows for less mistakes. I find if you cut it 10 by 10 exactly, you may not be able to line it up on the canvas as perfectly as you should. I find this way, I'm able to place the canvas down on the paper with a little bit of freedom, and then when I put the gel medium in between, it has room to flow out. It's okay if your lines aren't totally straight because again, this is the excess around the 10 by 10. Once you put the canvas on top, then you'll be able to cut around the canvas and definitely get straight lines at that point. I've cut the square out now, so I have the finished part that will go on the board. I'm just making sure that I have an idea of where I want the board to sit, which is actually just center. 3. Mounting yupo on a wood canvas: Okay. So I'm just showing you some of the products I use right now to adhere the UBO to my canvas. The glue I use, I guess you could call it, is this gloss gel medium, and that's all I use. A lot of people suggest using gesso to prime your wood canvas, and this is a white kind of wash that fills in the holes, and just makes it adhere better to paint or whatever you're putting on it. But I spoke to a lot of people, a lot of artists, and I got the feeling that you can use it but it's not totally necessary, so I chose to just stick with the gel medium and it has worked for me. So I also want to show you the tape I use. I tape up my sides of the panel with Frogtape. It's just a painter's tape, but this one strongly adheres to the canvas so the resin doesn't get in between. You should take your board before doing the gel medium because that can soak into the sides and leave marks. I totally forgot to do this for this video. I skipped that step. So I do get some of the gel medium along the sides, which is unfortunate. So tape it up before this step and then you're good to go. So to apply it, I just use a Popsicle stick, and put some on the top. You can see I'm speeding through this. I'm just using this tooth applicator. You buy it at a paint shop or something. I'm just using that to pull all of the gel medium to the corners so that it is fully on every single inch of the canvas. I just make sure to clean up the sides so it's not spilling over. Then, after this is done, I'm going to just move this out of the way. To keep my artwork safe, I grab a piece of paper towel and lay the paper towel on my table, and then put the artwork face down, and then I will put the canvas on top. Because I know from measuring out where I wanted my artwork to be, I know that it's in the center, so I tried my best to put it in the center, but even if it's slightly off, I don't mind because I'm pretty happy with the whole art work, the way that I have laid it out anyways. So I'm just pushing down on the flat part of the canvas, and then just gently turning it upside down so the art work is now facing me. Then, I take that paper towel and just place it on top of the artwork to protect it. I use this roller that you would find for printmaking. I use this to go from the center to the outside to just roll the gel medium under the Bo paper. I just want to make sure that there's no air bubbles in there, and that it's evenly distributed. I want to make sure that it gets all the way to the edges. So you can see here that that corner doesn't have a lot but it does look like it reached the edge of the side. So I'm just showing you examples of what I personally want to see. When I roll that over, I want to see some of the gel medium coming out. That way, I know that it reached the end fully. So now that I have rolled it out and I know that there's gel medium on all sides, I'm gently flipping it over again, making sure that the artwork is covered. I'm going to just clean up the sides so there isn't a whole bunch of the gel medium drying because I can reuse that. So we're just making sure to clean the sides. This is why the taping is good because just even by cleaning it, you tend to get a little bit from the Popsicle stick onto the canvas board. It's a good idea while letting this dry to weigh it down a little bit so it dries evenly. So to do that, I just grabbed the roll of tape, placed it in the center of the board, and then I grabbed my light pad and my Wacom tablet, and put those two things on top. That was heavy enough to just evenly distribute it. Then, I just let this dry overnight. So the next day, I can get started on resin. 4. Trimming your art work: Okay. It's the next day and I'm just checking to make sure everything is dry. If you can see, the gel medium actually dries clear and that's how you know it's dry, it's pretty stuck to the paper, which is great. Now I'm just going to cut the edges to clean it up so it's the 10 by 10 size. I'm just using my cutting mat and a blade. You want to make sure that your exacto knife has a very sharp blade because if it's a little bit dull, it's just not going have as nice of a cut. It's good to have the gel medium really thin, that's another reason why I cleaned it up because it'll just be easier to cut. You just want to be careful when you're cutting because you don't want to accidentally move the knife towards the artwork, and accidentally cut past or inside of the lines. You want to keep a steady hand so you get a straight cut going all the way down, this is definitely my least favorite part and I do find it quite difficult. You do have to use quite a bit of pressure I find, cut through the paper, it can be easy to make a mistake. Try to give yourself a little bit of space because I'd rather cut with too much paper on the side, than not enough and see some of the wood canvas showing. You also want to be careful when you get to the end of the line because if you're putting a lot of pressure, you might pull to the side. Just go slowly when you get to the corner so you can make a straight line. I'm just checking out my edges and making sure that everything is straight. I think I notice that at the corner there's a little bit of excess yupo paper, I'm just going go ahead and clean up that corner a little bit, and try and get a straighter line. Now I've got everything ready to go, the next step is mixing up our resin and getting ready to pour it on top. 5. Resin Safety: Every resident company has a safety data sheet that you can download. But in general, I don't believe that any resin is safe to use like without proper equipment and just in your home as you would use like, I don't know, acrylic paints. I have like five different ways that you can be safe when using resin. The first one, which is pretty obvious and every resin packaging will tell you this is to use in a ventilated area. If you have a garage or a shed, I think those are probably the ideal places to do it. I don't love doing it in my living room, but I do live in a condo, so I don't have a garage. But you do want to make sure you have windows, doors, whatever open. You want all of that air to just go outside and not stay in the room you're in. Right now it's winter, so it's freezing, which means I can't have a windows open because the resin won't cure in really cold weather or really damp wet weather. I'm basically on a seasonal break because it's not safe to do resin in a condo where you don't have any airflow basically well, proper air flow. You also want to make sure that you don't have any of your pets around. It's not safe for pets or children or any other humans to be around when you're doing any resin mixing because they don't have that proper gear or safety precautions for them, especially animals. Just be very very careful that those people or your pets are not in the same room. Number two is also a very obvious one because most packaging for resin will say to use gloves, I have these nitrile gloves, these are the ones I've been using I think that they are good enough for resin. But again, I would do your own research. I'm not an expert, but these are what I've been using and you can also double double up on the gloves so just wear two gloves right on top of each other, they do tend to snap quite easily. Well, I haven't really had them snap easily on my hands, but I'd seen in videos where they have snapped for other people. If you have one underneath and you're good to go and just extra safe. Definitely you want to make sure you're wearing gloves resin is not only not great to have on your skin, but it's also really difficult to clean off. I believe that there's a soap that people use something like has orange in it. People, I've mentioned that they leave that right by the sink as an emergency in case they do get resin on their hands, then they can use this special type of soap to clean it off. I do find it like rubbing alcohol and nail polish remover can remove resin from surfaces if I accidentally get it somewhere but you don't want to use that to get it off your skin. Make sure you use gloves so you don't get it on your skin. You also want to do the third stage precaution, which is where the proper clothes, make sure you're wearing long sleeves and something old cause even if you do get resin on your clothes, like It's going to ruin them, so you might use your old ones. But you also want to were long sleeves so you don't accidentally get any on your arms. The last two precautions are ones that I was not using at the beginning, but are super, super important and you should definitely invest in these two if you're going to start resin. The first one is a respirator. This is a half mask respirator you can also get a full mask respirator, which is just that much better. It's just a little bit extra for precaution because it's going to cover the rest of your face. You want to make sure that the cartridges filter organic vapor I believe, honestly took me a long time to find the right respirator. I was in a lot of Facebook groups and asking a lot of questions. Everybody is from different countries, so there's different respirators for different countries, I guess, and there's so many different cartridges so again, do your own research. But as far as I know, the organic vapor cartridge is what you're supposed to use. I got this from a hardware store, Lowe's. It was pretty inexpensive. I think it was like 30 or $40. You want to make sure that it's working when you put it on, the shear respirator should come with instructions so that when you put it on, you can actually test to make sure that it is filtering the air. Then these cartridges don't last forever, so you want to make sure you change them when you need to. If you have a half mask like me, then the fifth precaution I recommend is safety glasses. These ones are large enough to fit over top of prescription glasses. You can wear those underneath as well. That's just going to protect your eyes because if you have resin on your eyes, that would be absolutely horrible. I put this on first. I hope that was helpful. Again, I'm not an expert on resin or safety precautions. This is just what you should be doing as a bare minimum if you are using resin, if you have any questions, I'll try my best answer them. However, I recommend joining some Facebook groups on resin because there's a huge community on there that you can ask questions too. Just getting other people's experience and opinions and also like finding facts of your own. I would recommend that because that's where I learned a lot and just be careful. 6. Prepping for resin: This was the step that I was supposed to do earlier. But if you forgot like me, now is definitely the time to do it. However, I prefer to do this before the gel medium. You need to line it up really straight, so that you get a really nice edge, and I tend to do it slightly under the top of the canvas, because I like the resin to pore over a little bit, but you can do it flush to the top. It's totally up to you. I also like to use the heat of my hand just to make sure it's really stuck down. You want to make sure that you also tape the bottoms of your cradled board, because the resin will drip down, and just naturally, creep up underneath the canvas and it's really hard to remove. But if it has tape on it, then you can just peel it off, and throw it out, and then you have a clear board underneath. That's what I'm doing now, just making sure that all of those edges are fully taped up. 7. Applying resin: It's finally time to do the resin coating. Even though I have a vinyl, that clear vinyl sheet on my wooden table, I still put a plastic garbage bag on top. Protect your table because resin is not easy to remove. These are all the materials I'm going to be using. I'm using that measuring cup, some plastic cups to hold up my artwork, that toothy applicator again, the wooden popsicle sticks, a butane torch and gloves. Then this is the resin I use. I like to use art resin because it's really safe to use inside your house. There's no toxic chemicals that are bad to inhale. I also have that pin. I used that to popping bubbles or grab any little fuzzies that fall into the resin. Here's my artwork and it's ready to go. I'm just going to also put down this baking sheet that I put parchment paper on top of. Because, again, I'm really taking all measures possible to make it easy to clean up and not ruin anything. The cups or what I'm using to prop up my art, you want to use something that you can make higher and lower like lego. Because you want to make sure that your board is totally level. I use an app to do this. This way, the resin will be even throughout because the resin self levels. So you want to have a totally level surface in order to get the even distribution of resin. The next step is mixing the resin. But you have to know how much you're going to need to mix. You do need to mix exactly half and half of both bottles. You have hardener and then the resin. To figure out how much you're going to need and I use this painter's pale because the resin peels off easily from plastic. I use the ounces on side, even though we don't really use ounces in Canada. But that's because that's easiest to use on that painter's pail. You can find the ounces in the art resin calculator. On their website, they have a calculator and you can just put in the measurements of your board. I put 10 by 10 inches. Then once I hit "Calculate," you can see it says 0.03 gallons, so three ounces. That's how much I need of both bottles mixed together. That means I need one and a half ounces of hardener and one and a half ounces of resin. I suggest getting at eye level with the measuring cups so you can see exactly where it is because this does need to be extremely precise. If it's not exactly even then, there can be complications with the curing process. To make it easy, I just did four ounces and use the extra resin for some jewelry. I did two ounces of each just because the two ounces was marked more clearly. But if you don't have a painter's pail, you could use a measuring cup that you don't plan to use for eating. Or you can even use a scale and then just fill those plastic cups I showed you with resiner or resonant and just see how much it weighs and do it that way. I always let it pour and then let it settle to see where it sits in the measurements. Now you'll need to mix it. I set a timer for three minutes and 15 seconds. It is supposed to be three minutes, but I add 15 seconds because I put my phone down and I want to make sure that I get the three minutes, so I'll just go over a little bit. Just mix for three minutes straight. I'm mixing this quite fast and that's not necessary. I actually shouldn't probably be mixing it this quickly because the faster you mix it, meaning like the faster your hand is moving, you're going to get more bubbles. Luckily, when I put it on my artwork, it's a pretty thin coating and the blow torch gets rid of pretty much all of them. But if you want to avoid bubbles as much as possible just slow it down, mix slowly. Make sure you're scraping off the sides to get all of the resin that you put in there and mixing from the bottom. Like when you're baking a cake and you're folding your eggs and your flower etc. Continue to do that and make sure to do it for the full three minutes. Now I'm ready to pour onto my artwork. Before we do that though, I'm just blowing on the artwork and using a tissue because there might be some fuzzies that landed on it and you don't want that in the resin. Then I'm starting in the center and just making a round area of resin. I probably could have put way more on in the initial goal than I did. But I tend to be pretty conservative. Then I use this applicator to just drag it to the ends. If you just left it alone, it will self level. Resin does do that itself doming as well. But this will just make things go quicker. Then this way I know for sure, for sure that I put enough on there and it's going to reach every corner. I'm just slowly putting more of the resin using up what I have mixed and making sure that there are no spots left. Another thing I do once I've made sure that all of the area is covered, because I like having it drip over this side and have that bit of open Canvas covered by resin, I just use my finger and I'll either dip my finger in the resin that I have in my measuring cup, or use some that fell down on the parchment paper. I'll just use that to just like wipe along the sides just to make sure that it's all covered and that way, I'll get an even texture or like an even glossy coating along all of the edges. Now is the fun part, which is the blow torch. Art resin does sell these. Art resin actually has a full package where you can get everything. But you can pretty much get this blowtorch anywhere. This is going to get rid of all the bubbles. You'll see when I show you a close-up what it looks like when you get rid of them and you are going to have to babysit this artwork. I would say for 15-30 minutes, just kind of check every 10 minutes for new bubbles because new bubbles do come up as time passes by. You'll see here from this view when I grab the torch and just go over top, you see where the bubbles were and how they just popped from the blowtorch. It's pretty satisfying and you definitely don't want any bubbles in your artwork. You'll also notice I've found a piece of hair and it's almost impossible to avoid these because while I'm torching, they seem to fall in here. I just grab my needle and just totally take it out and then I might even just go over the torch again. Once you have a totally glass-like surface and you've baby sat it for 15-30 minutes to make sure any new bubbles got zapped, you're ready to let it cure. I grab a tupperware container. This one is almost exactly the size. I'm being very careful while placing it on top because I don't want to touching the edges. I put this on top and I also like fully clean out inside because you can also have a lot of fuzzies inside your tupperware container. Just let this dry now. At least 24 hours, if not longer, and do not take off the container in-between. 8. Finishing touches: This is definitely my favorite part of the process and it is the reveal. I usually do weigh a little bit longer than 24 hours just to be sure. You'll see it as beautiful finished piece of artwork and I love the way it looks when it's glass and then when there are no fuzzy slept in there, it just makes it all worth it. The only thing left to do now is clean up the sides. I'm going to remove the tape just off screen because it's really boring and you'll see that because I actually forgot that the tape I used was the cheap tape and I didn't realize it wasn't the frog tape, so I put on two layers, the cheap tape and the frog tape, so I think that's why I got a little bit of the resin down the sides, but no problem. You can sand down the sides and then you still might have some discoloration because the resin does sync through. If you haven't electric sander, that would definitely work even better. The other thing you can do is stain the sides. You could stain them dark or you could put like a whitewash over them. I do like them natural, but I might try out some stains in the future. I hope you enjoyed this course. This pretty much wraps it up and let me know if you try it below, definitely post your final product because I'd love to see it and make sure to ask any questions if you got one.