Homebrewing for Beginners | Marty Nachel | Skillshare

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Homebrewing for Beginners

teacher avatar Marty Nachel, Beer Me

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

8 Lessons (37m)
    • 1. Homebrewing for Beginners

      1:38
    • 2. Sanitation

      2:22
    • 3. Beer Ingredients

      6:39
    • 4. Brewing Equipment

      8:03
    • 5. Homebrew Supply Sources

      1:21
    • 6. Recipe for Pale Ale

      2:10
    • 7. Brewing Instructions

      8:31
    • 8. Bottling Instructions

      6:19
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About This Class

This course is intended for students who have never brewed a beer at home before.  It’s designed to familiarize them with the ingredients, equipment and processes necessary to brew a simple beer at home.  Sourcing and pricing of equipment and ingredients is also covered in this course.

This course is presented by the author of the best-selling book, "Homebrewing for Dummies"

Meet Your Teacher

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Marty Nachel

Beer Me

Teacher

* Author, "Beer for Dummies", "Homebrewing for Dummies"

* Beer Education Director for Tapville Social 

* Advisory Board member and adjunct instructor, College of DuPage (IL) "Business of Craft Beer" certificate program

* Professional International Beer Judge- Great American Beer Festival, World Beer Cup, Festival of Barrel Aged Beers, Copa Cerveza de Americas 

* Draught Master and former trainer for the Heineken brand

 

 

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Transcripts

1. Homebrewing for Beginners: Welcome to Home brewing or beginners of your instructor for this course. My name is Marty Natural, and I am the author of Home Brewing for Dummies for the course introduction. This course is intended for students who have never brewed a beer before. It's designed to familiarise them with the ingredients, the equipment and the process is necessary to brew a simple multi extract vera at home for the course project. The idea is for you to successfully Bruin bottle and enjoy. Of course, a very at home beer style that's going to be brewed is an American pale ale. As this is one of the simplest beers to brew at home. It's important to note, as mentioned in the course description, the advice and instruction offered in this presentation is sufficient for students to successfully brew the first beer at home. Be aware that this is a detail oriented process that takes place over a period of 3 to 4 weeks to complete, and most of the time is spent patiently waiting for the beer to ferment and carbonate. The beer that will result from this instruction is simple and basic. In order to create beer of even higher quality or greater complexity at home. Additional equipment, ingredients, processes and instruction would be required. Also note that the equipment ingredients of processes covered in this presentation are for a five gallon batch of beer, which is considered the standard batch size in the industry. 2. Sanitation: it would be irresponsible to talk about brewing Beard home without covering the topic of sanitation, because nothing is more important to the quality of your home rule and keeping everything in your home brewery. Clean and sanitized cleaning means reading your brewery of visible contaminants, dirt and dust, and so on. Sanitizing means killing the unseen germs and bacteria that can contaminate your beer. Germs and bacteria can quickly ruin your beer if given the chance. Anything that comes in contact with your beer will need to be sanitized now. Having said that, it's important to note that since boiling is a part of the brewing process and boiling is a form of sanitation, Onley post boil sanitation is needed. That means sanitizing Onley, those equipment items that will come in contact with your beer after it's been boiled with regards to sanitizing solutions. There are many out there in the marketplace. These are the following. Products here are safe, effective and widely available through homebrew suppliers. These products have been in existence for many, many years, and they've been used very successfully by home roars. The important thing is depending on which one of these use and by the way there are others , make sure that you use all of them as directed by the manufacturer. Now in a pinch household bleach, which is essentially chlorine bleach. It's a cheap and effective alternative to commercial sanitizing solutions. The key is to use the correct solution for the correct length of contact time. The rule of thumb is to use 1 to 2 ounces of beach for every gallon of cold water. When soaking plastics or glass in a bleach solution, it should soak for about 20 to 30 minutes. But don't forget to rinse with hot water. You don't want any traces of the bleach left on any of your equipment. And be aware that your skin will become irritated if you're in regular contact with the bleach solution. So to minimise skin irritation when working with bleach, it's always recommended that rubber rubber gloves be worn 3. Beer Ingredients: in this segment, I'm gonna talk specifically about beer ingredients, the four primary ingredients in commercial beer, our grain hops, yeast and water. The ingredients are essentially the same at home brewed beer, but some are made and sold in different forms, so we're gonna take a look at both of those grain. Specifically, barley is the base of all beers. After undergoing what is called the malting process, the barley is then referred to as malt or barley malt after malting. The starchy interior of the grain kernel contains soluble sugars called mull toes. They're extracted by mixing the grain, infusing it with warm water and mixing it and a vessel called a mash tun. This process is called mashing Malto. Sugars are dissolved in the water and extracted to create a syrupy liquid that is then referred to as work. W O. R T is pronounced work that's a German term for unfermented beer. Now all of this sounds too intimidating. Don't worry. As a beginner home brewer, you don't have to do any of the things that I just described. Fortunately, there is a product available toe homebrewers that lets you skip all of the previous processes It's called malt extract, and it's basically a condensed version of the work. All you have to do is mix or reconstitute the want extract with hot water to create your own work at home. Justin F. Y I malt extract can be purchased in dry form, which is basically a powder or liquid forum, which is the syrup that I mentioned just a second ago. These are known by homebrewers as DME or dry malt extract, and LME, or liquid malt extract. You will be instructed to use LME to make this particular beer. So while the word is boiling, hops must be added to it. There are three reasons why brewers add haps to the beer. One ist add aroma to beer. The second ist add flavor to the beer, and the third ist add bitterness to the beer. Now you might be wondering, Why does beer need bitterness? Well, the bitterness of the hops. It's important to balance out the sweetness of the months you achieve balance and flavor in your beer. Now there are a couple 100 hop varieties grown around the world, each with their own aroma, flavour and bitterness characteristics and not all of these are available to homebrewers, but don't worry there, I'm pity that are the specific varieties recommended recommended in this presentation are widely available and are very popular for making American pale ales and another F. Y. I hops are typically processed in pellet form, and they are measured out in ounce increments. For this particular beer, you will only be using three ounces of hops after the word has been boiled in the brew kettle and the hops have been added to it. It must be cool and then transferred to your fermenter, where the uses added yeast is needed to change the works into beer through the process of fermentation. Essentially, the yeast feeds on those Malto sugars presence in the word, and in return it excretes carbon dioxide and ethyl alcohol. So once fermentation is complete, your work is officially beer. Now another F Y. I unused. There are thousands of strains of use throughout the world, but the yeast genus that ferments beers called sacharow Macy's, which means sugar fungus. There are two basic strains of sacrum. ICI's one is called sacrum icy Servizi A and the other is called sacrum, ICI's historian Honest, which is named after Louis pastor. The 1st 1 is for making Ailes. The 2nd 1 is from making lagers. For this particular pale ale, you will be using sacrifices. Sarah Vz eight. Because it's a now brewers used is available in dry form and liquid form for ease of use. You will be directed to use dry eased for this American pale ale regarding water. Because beers 90 to 95% water content, it's important to use good brooding water. Essentially, lousy water makes lousy beer, so the rule of thumb is that if your water is good enough to make coffee or ice cubes and it's good enough to make beer it home if your water source has an unpleasant, smaller taste, on the other hand, it would be a good idea to buy bottled water to make your beard home Now. Note. Do not buy and use distilled water. Distilled water is absolutely devoid of minerals that are important for use metabolism. Just use regular bottled water and you'll do just fine. So by this point I'm sure you're wondering what the costs of these ingredients are. Wolf reach five gallon batch of beer you brew. You should expect to spend between 30 and $40 for ingredients, and if you want to do the math, that works out to roughly 60 to 80 cents per 12. Sent 12 ounce bottles. Not a bad deal. This would include your malt extract your haps in your yeast. But there are also some other consumables that we talk about. What you also need for your beers. Something called sugar tablets for the bottling procedure. And, of course, you also need violent crowns or caps to seal your bottles. These particular consumables can be bought in bulk quantities. That would be good for several batches of beer. Now here I've included a couple of photos of some of the ingredients that you be using. Keep in mind that these are just examples of what's out there, and you don't have to buy exactly what you see on the screen, although that yeast in particular I do call up by brand, um, the hops on the left and the use on the right. Those are about actual size, the container in the middle that has the malt liquid malt extract in it that's going to be considerably larger. That's gonna be 5 to £6 So it's gonna be the size of a very large peanut butter jar. And here are those other consumables I mentioned on the left are the conditioning tablets that you're gonna need on Bottling Day and, of course, the crowns that you're gonna need to cap all of your bottles. 4. Brewing Equipment: in this segment, I'm gonna be talking specifically about the brewing equipment you're gonna need to brew at home. But before I moved through all the equipment I need to establish the typical home brewing timelines you can expect, you can know what to expect when it comes to how long it's gonna take you to brew your beer , bottle it and eventually drink it. So on day one, that's when you brew your beer all right, and the next 2 to 10 days. That's what we call the fermentation period. I'm day 11 ish. That's when you're gonna buy all your beer and then for the next two weeks or so thereafter . That's what we call the conditioning phase. Your beer is already in the bottle, but it needs to carbonate before you can drink it. So on about day 24 that's when you can start chilling down your beer and drinking it. Now I have to include this Ah section here. It's possible that your beer may ferment in less than 10 days, and it may carbonate in less than 14 days, so, hypothetically, you may be drinking your beer in his little as three weeks, so Now, with that out of the way, we can talk about the equipment items that you're gonna need on the day you brew your beer . We need to start with a large value stockpot. I recommend a minimum of 16 courts. This is essentially your brew kettle. This is where you're going to boil your work and throw the haps and all that good stuff. No lid is needed for the brew pot, and I also recommend that you don't use one either, because what happens a lot of times as you'll people put their lid on their brew pot, they have the stove on high. The brew comes to a boil, and it ends up boiling over the sides of the pot, and it makes one heck of, ah, big mess on the stovetop. So recommending that using a live secondly, you're gonna need a long handled spoon. This is for stirring the work, and it should be made of food grade plastic or stainless steel. You may already have something like this in your kitchen, and, by the way, do not use wooden spoons. Um, you're also going to need a straighter, and I recommend a minimum of eight inch diameter on this. This is needed because you'll be pouring your work through the strainer to remove the hops solids after they've been boiled in the work. Then you're gonna need a fermenter with lid and spigot. This is a plastic item. I recommend a six gallon minimum capacity. There should be food grade plastic, and your beer will rest in this vessel for those 8 to 10 days. Why your beers fermenting? For all of this, you're gonna need an airlock. This item allows CO two from your fermenting beer to escape from the fermenter while keeping your beard devoid of oxygen or contaminants. Essentially, this works is a one way valve. Gas is allowed to escape from the fermenter, but it won't allow anything else into the fermenter. So here's a pictorial look at the items that I just described on the upper left. You see your brew pot, and it does show a lid. But I want to reiterate that you don't need that below. That is, the strainer should be stainless steel, preferably and, like I said, eight inch minimum. In the lower right corner, you'll see the plastic a spoon for stirring. That's typically about 18 inches long, and I'd recommend you have won at least 16 to 18 inches long. Above that, you'll see a horizontal airlock. This is a plastic three piece item, and in the middle picture you see the fermenter, the plastic fermenter with the lid and the airlock situated in the graham, it'd hole in the lid. That's how it's going to look when it's actually fermenting. So now let's move past fermentation. Now we're talking about your you need to bottle your beer. So these are the items you're gonna need on bottling date, starting with plastic tubing, Uh, three feet minimum for this. This is a homebrew specific item that is used for transferring beer from one vessel to another, as I mentioned. Should be food grade plastic. We're also gonna need what's called a bottling one when attached to the plastic hosing, this homebrew specific item is needed to fill your Bibles with beer. This could be food grade plastic or stainless steel. Both of these types are available in the in the marketplace. Of course, you're gonna need vitals. A five gallon batch of beer can easily fill about 50 12 ounce bottles and if you do the math, it actually works. Talked about 54 bottles. Technically, you can buy these brand new or on the other hand, you could simply by commercial beer, drink the beer and rinse and save the bottles. However, that comes with a caveat. You can not use beer bottles with the threat of opening your buying twist off bottles. Forget it. New crowns will not seal across the threads on the bottle, so not recommended it all. Likewise, threaded bottles are typically made of a thinner glass so they can't withstand a lot of handling. And they certainly can't withstand extra pressure within when you're carbonate in your beer . So always recommended that you buy what we call reusable bottles, even if they're brand new. Oh, are. If you are buying beer in capped bottles that are not twist up, those those are acceptable. Now, in order to put these caps on the bottles, you're gonna need a bottle capper. There are two handed models out there, or there are one handed bench top models, and I got pictures of those coming up, and as I mentioned before, you're going to need bottle caps, which you can buy by the batch or by the gross, depending on how much money want to spend on how much you want to store. Likewise, sugar tablets. The These are the sugar tabs that air popped into each bottle just prior to filling and capping. These will provide the appropriate amount of carbonation in the each beer bottle. I hear some pictures of those items. On the right hand side of the frame, of course, are those heavy glass reusable bottles that I recommend in the upper left hand corner. That's the three feet of plastic tubing that's for transferring beer. I mixed next to that. On the right is one example of a bottling wonder. Several different types out there noticed that the majority of bottling lines come with a valve on it. Some of them are spring loaded bells. Some of them are gravity valves. It all depends on what model you buy, and there are also stainless steel bottling ones, too. Now, below that, it's the left, and to the right are two different examples of campers. A red item is on the left is a two headed capper, and the other item is the one handed bench cap Rob to see that one's gonna cost a little bit more. But if you plan on staying in the hobby for a while, it's definitely worth investing in. Now again, you're probably wondering what the cost of all this equipment is. You could expect to spend between 75 $150 four years startup equipment. But that depends on how many items on the equipment list you need to buy. And remember that buying less expensive food grade plastic as opposed to buy stainless steel items, will also affect your bottom line. Now be aware that all inclusive kits are typically more economical than buying your equipment one item at a time. And here's a quick look at an all inclusive brewing kit. Um, remember them. Different kits contain different items. You'll need to read closely what comes in each kit. Dont simply, ah, make your purchases based on cost. It's important, and it's It's in your best interest to do some comparison shopping 5. Homebrew Supply Sources: in this section, which is very short but also very important. I'm gonna talk about home roof supply sources. Now. I would recommend that you start by looking locally. Check to see who or what might be available in your neighborhood somewhere you can drive to or walk to something that's convenient to you because there is a great deal of value in especially for beginner brewers, uh, for them being able to walk into a home brew supply shop and speak face to face person to person, with someone who is knowledgeable about home brewing and to help them make purchasing decisions. Now I understand that not everybody has a local shop, and that's where the Internet comes in. It's the single most important source of equipment and ingredients. There are many, many online retailers that could be found just using a simple search. And just to give you a start, I've listed a couple here that these are some of the larger online retailers, and they've been around a long time, the reputable and they are worthy of mention. This basically gives you a place to start. If nothing else, you could do some comparison shopping online, and, uh, you can either click on these links or simply write them down to use at another time. 6. Recipe for Pale Ale: in this section, which is also very short and also very important. We're going to talk about the items needed to make your pale ale at home, so you need to buy these consumable starting with your malt extract. I recommend at least 5 to £6 of liquid pale malt extract. Now there's a couple different things you need to focus on. This is liquid malt extract, not try Ma extract. It's pale, is opposed to amber or dark, and it's 5 to £6 you're probably wondering why that's not more exact. It has to do with different suppliers. Some packaging might only include by pound. Some packaging might include £6. So somewhere, If you're somewhere in that neighborhood of 5 to £6 of looking pale malt extract, you're in good shape. That's sufficient for what you need now, As mentioned in a previous sexually talked about the hops, I list three different varieties of hops. You're a cascade, Amarillo and Simcoe hops have all these different, sometimes weird names that you may not recognize, but it's not really relevant either. The point is that if you are doing your shopping, if you could look for these three varieties, get one ounce of each One of them is going to be for the bitterness one is going to be for the flavoring. One is gonna be for the aromatics of the beer that I explained in the previous section. With regards to the yeast, I mentioned that you're gonna be using a dry yeast. It's basically that red packet that you saw in a previous slide. The brand name is safe ale, and the type is us 05 American ale dry used. That's gonna work just fine for the American pale ale that you're gonna be brewing and then , as mentioned before you're also gonna need the sugar tablets at bottling because is a generic item. You don't need to have a specific brand name and bottle caps are also very generic item and again, you're gonna need a least 50 or so to cap up all bottles in this batch 7. Brewing Instructions: So this is the section where we really get down to business. I'm going to run through your actual brewing instructions before proceeding, however, is a couple things you should always do. Always make sure that you have all of your ingredients and equipment on hand. Always make sure you've sanitized everything that's going to come in contact with you. Beer and again, that's post boil. There's nothing more frustrating than bring a beer than realizing at the last minute that you don't have any yeast ready for fermentation. Actually, there is something more frustrating. Finding out your beer has been contaminated because you didn't sanitize your equipment properly. So with all that in mind, go ahead and fill your brew pot with one gallon of lukewarm water. Go ahead and set your stove on high for the malt extract into the water and stirred until it's fully mixed in. Now, while that the entire time that your brew pot is on the stove and it's the flame or the coil is on high, make sure to stir the work regularly because two things can happen. Number one. You're going to get scorching on the bottom of your brew pot and number two. You make it boil overs when the when the pot is topped up with more water as closer to the surface. If you get a good rolling boil, the good chance that that's going to spill over the pot and created that one heck of a mess on your stovetop, so stir regularly. So having said that, once the extract is in the water and fully mixed in, go ahead and top up your brew pot with war warm water to within 2 to 3 inches of the rim, and this is you can kind of play with this. Whatever you're more comfortable with. If you want to avoid boil overs, keep it a little lower. If you want to keep the pot a little bit lighter, you might consider putting in just a little bit less water to, because at some point you're going to have to lift this entire brew pot with its contents, and it's gonna be pretty heavy, so something to consider anyway. When the work starts to boil, go ahead and stir in your first ounce of hops. These are the ones that are gonna be for the bitterness in the beer half hour later, go ahead and stir in the second aunts of hops. And this is gonna be what's called your flavoring hops. And then after one hour of boiling or another half hour later, go ahead and start in the third. Lots of hops. These are the ones that are gonna be for aroma. And as soon as you've done that, go ahead and turn off the stove. At this point, go ahead and just allow your brew part to cool on the stove. Why you go about preparing for the transfer of the word from the brew pot into the fermenter, so that means go getter for manner and your strainer positioned them on a table or floor. I would suggest the floor You guys again. You're lifting a brew pockets heavy and full of hot liquid, so it's a matter of safety, too. So we're gonna go ahead and take a look at a couple of pictures Here. Here, you see a brew pot and it's on the stove and it's it's got a pretty good ruling boiled and that looks to be about 3 to 4 inches below the lip of the lid, and you can see the stainless steel Bruce Moon rusting there on the handle. And in this next shot we're seeing again the brew pot with the liquid level probably down about four inches of so from the tap. And here you see the brewers adding one of the packets of hops I mentioned before. They're politicized. They look like little green pellets, and that would be 11 ounce packet that you see being emptied into the group. So back to instructions so you have your fermenter in place with your strainer. Go ahead and very carefully pour the hot word through the strainer into the fermenter. Your strainer is actually sitting in the open. There's no lid on the fermenter, the strangers actually straddling or sitting across the opening of the fermenter. That's why it's important to have the right size and you want a carefully pour. You work through the straighter into the fermenter. Before you do this, make sure that the spigot on the fermenter is in the closed position. If it's not, you're hot work is gonna end up running all over your floor, so be aware that so anyway, once you've poured all of the word into the fermenter. Go ahead and carefully remove the strainer from the opening of the fermenter and put it in a sink or somewhere that's out of the way and not making a mess. At this point time, you're going to top up the liquid level in the fermenter with cold water as cold as you can possibly get and fill it up to the five gallon mark on. There's no need to stir either. Just the act of pouring the cold water in it will mix sufficiently. Okay, Um, most homebrew fermenters that the five gallon plastic buckets most of them have, uh, the five gallon increments marked on the outside of the bucket so you can see or one gallon two gallon three on etcetera is so you shouldn't have any problem figuring out where the five gallon mark is. Once you're topped up to the five Guillain mark, go ahead and open up. You use packet and Sprinkle the yeast just right on top of work. Go ahead and Sprinkle it all across the word. Do not stir. It's probably this is an opportunity. If you were to go ahead and stir, there's a good chance you may contaminate the word. It's just better not to do it. Okay, once the east is in, by the way we call that pitching. You just pitched the Houston to the work. Once the east has pitched, go ahead and tightly sealed a fermenter with the lid and again make sure it's on good and tight. It's sealed appropriately at this point, using the handle on the fermenter. Go ahead and move your fermenter to an appropriate location in your house. That could be a basement. It could be across space. It could be an interior closet anywhere that's cool and dark. When I say cool, I'm talking 65 to 70 degrees, and I should mention, by the way, garages are not an ideal location for your beer, primarily because garages experience a much greater temperature swing from day tonight and back today. Again, that's not good for your beer. You wanted to be as consistent as possible. So again, crawlspace basement in cherry closets. Something is gonna be very consistently 65 to 70 degrees or of the entire fermentation period. Once you're fermenters in that location, go ahead and fill your airlock about halfway with water and tightly affects the airlock to the graham. It'd opening in the fermenter lid that's going to seal everything up properly. Once you've accomplished all of that, you are essentially done for today. At this point time, there's little you can do. Wait patiently. Complete fermentation will not occur until eight or 10 days have passed. Visible fermentation should begin in the 1st 12 24 hours. This could be confirmed by the CO two bubbles that are escaping through the airlock. It as I mentioned before, so too is created by the east as they're consuming the Malto sugars and they're going to excrete CO two. And rather than get CO two buildup inside the fermenter and make it explosive, CO two is gonna be very easily vented off through the airlock. Now, after 4 to 6 days, because I'm sure you're gonna be watching this visible fermentation, meaning the bubbles in the air lock, they're going to begin to slow down and may even appear to stop. You need to be patient and wait until the eighth or 10th they in order to proceed with violent procedures. But here's a little clue. You can you can watch for when more than three minutes passed between each bubble coming out of the airlock. You're probably pretty safe to start planning toe bottle the next day. Okay, when the bubbles are so slow that they're only coming out of the airlock, it three minute intervals. Fermentation is pretty much over. If you allowed another 24 hours into the following day, you should be safe to go ahead and bottle. 8. Bottling Instructions: in this segment, we're gonna be doing a follow up on brewing instructions by talking about bottling instructions out. Let's assume that 8 to 10 days have now passed in. Your beer is fully fermented before proceeding. Always make sure that you have all of your bodily equipment sanitized, including all of the bottles. You have the choice of sanitizing your bottle caps or bata boiling them to sterilize them. Either method works fine and always make sure you have everything you need on hand before starting the bottling process. It's very frustrating to get all set up to buy all your beer and then find out that you're out of sugar tablets or bottle caps. So here are those instructions. The first thing you want to do is remove the airlock from the fermenter lid to prevent what's called sucked back as you lift and move the fermenter. And that means that the water in the airlock may get sucked back into the fermenter, and that's not good for your beer. Once you've done that, gently move the fermenter to a sturdy surface, like a kitchen table for a countertop. What's important here's trying not to disturb the use bed at the bottom of the fermenter, the more you disturb the use bed, the war years there is going to be in the beer, and that's gonna end up resting at the bottom of your your beer bottles at the end. So the less you disturb the yeast, the more you leave in the fermenter, the less is going to be in your beer. Okay, now arrange all the bottles on the floor below the fermenter, and it's best to have all the bottles, either in cardboard boxes or beer cases or six pack holders or whatever you confined so they don't accidentally topple over like dominoes. I've had it happen at this point. Go ahead and attach the plastic tubing to the spigot on the fermenter, which, by the way, is still better. Be closed, um, and then go ahead and attach the bottling line to the opposite and of the plastic tubing. Once you've done that, go ahead and drop 2 to 3 sugar tablets in each bottle, and this is according to package directions. You want to read the directions and figure out how many you want to use because the more sugar tablets used the higher. The co two level is going to be in your beer and fewer tablet to use. The less seal to is going to be in your beer. So again, read package directions and followed. And now go ahead and place the bottling one in the first bottle. Go ahead and open the spigot on the fermenter and depressed the bottling. Oneto allow free flow of beer As I mentioned before, most bottling winds have built in bells that help that stop and start the liquid flow. So you've got the bottle wind in the bio on your pushing down on it spigot. His open beer is flowing when the beer reaches the top of the bottle and you'll see it coming up. Release the downward pressure on the borrowing. Want to stop the flow of beer? Simply moved the bottling one on to the next bottle and repeat the process as many times as it takes to fill all the bottles or empty differ aumentar, whichever comes first. Now here's a picture that gives you an idea what the process looks like, but I have to explain a couple things. First of all, this photo is showing this spigot in the horizontal position. I don't really know why they did that. It's typically pointed at the floor, so it's They probably did it simply for the photo. Likewise, the bodily tubing In this picture it looks like it's only about foot and 1/2 to 18 inches long, and yours has described earlier, should be about three feet long. And you There's really no reason for you to hold or handle the bottle each bottle as you're filling it. Leaving them on the floor is really the best thing and keeps it easy and no accidents or mistakes. So, as I said, continue filling the biles until all bottles are filled or the fermenters empty. When you've gotten to that point, go ahead and close the spigot on the fermenter. He attached the plastic tubing and violin one and set all that aside in a sink or somewhere . It's out of the way and not making a mess. Go ahead and move all your filled bottles to the tabletop or other work surface. Wherever it's most convenient for you, one at a time, place a cap on each model and crew pid with the bottle capper until all of them are done. Once that's achieved, place all of your bottles in a cool, dark place and allow them to rest undisturbed for two weeks. This two week period is called the conditioning, or carbonated phase. During this time, the yeast that's still in suspension in the beer we'll slowly consume the sugar tablets while in the Bible in the sugar will have dissolved in the beer. So eventually they will eat that sugar and create the appropriate amount of carbonation in the beer. Because the yeast is once again active and month of playing within the bottle, there will be an unavoidable yeast sediment left in the bottom of each bottle. But it's not a lot if you don't want to. If you don't want yeast in your beer when you drink it, simply leave that last photo or two in the bottle as you poured out. On the other hand, if you don't mind drinking the East, it actually is very high in the B complex vitamins, which means it's healthy. All right, so after your beer stored away safely, be sure to thoroughly rinsed and cleaned all of your equipment before putting it away because you still want to be pulling out dirty the next time you get to get around to brewing of the recommended conditioning period is two weeks. It's okay to start checking on your bottles after just one week by giving a bottle a quick shake, you should see carbonation bubbles forming inside. If the anticipation is too much for you to bear, go ahead and crack a bottle open just to satisfy your curiosity. Good men make consumption decisions based on the level of carbonation in the beer at that time. But whatever that may be, enjoy your brew. Cheers.