Home School Art: Keepsake Memory Pillow | Alicia Robinson | Skillshare

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Home School Art: Keepsake Memory Pillow

teacher avatar Alicia Robinson, Think creatively!!

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

21 Lessons (1h 8m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Supplies

    • 3. Class Overview

    • 4. Creating a Square Template

    • 5. How to Cut Pants for Reuse

    • 6. 5 1/2" Square Template

    • 7. Seam Allowance

    • 8. Laying out Pattern: Nine Patch Block

    • 9. Sewing Blocks

    • 10. Sewing Rows

    • 11. How to Load a Embroidery Hoop

    • 12. Embroidering Letters

    • 13. Sequin

    • 14. Beads

    • 15. Four Hole Button

    • 16. Two Hole Button

    • 17. Shank Button

    • 18. Sewing the Front and Back Panel Together

    • 19. Adding the Stuffing

    • 20. Finishing the Pillow

    • 21. Final Thoughts

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About This Class

In this class, you will repurpose old t-shirts, pants, blankets, sheets, or any other material you love. You will learn to hand sew a nine patch quilt block for the front of your pillow. The idea is to create a pillow that will remind you of someone you love or a special memory.Β 

I have also added several videos that will instruct you on adding embellishments to your pillow. These include hand sewing buttons, sequin, and beads as well as stitching (embroidering) letters or words onto your pillow.Β 

Supplies: I have added a supply list in the resource section. There is a link to an amazon wish list there as well.


  • Old t-shirts, pajama pants, blankets, sheets and anything you would like to repurpose (at least three patterns for pillow front and one for back panel)
  • Optional: new fabric (fat quarters or ΒΌ yard of 4 different fabrics: 3 for squares and one for back panel)
  • Scissors
  • Ruler
  • Sharpie, ink pen, or chalk writer
  • All-purpose thread
  • Needle
  • Cereal box or poster board for templates
  • Polyester stuffing

Bead embellishments:

  • Beads: various size and colors. Choose your favorites
  • All-purpose thread
  • Needle
  • Scissors
  • 4” or 6” embroidery hoop


  • All-purpose thread
  • Buttons: various size, shapes, and colors
  • 4” or 6” embroidery hoop
  • Scissors


  • All-purpose thread
  • Sequin: various size, shapes, and colors
  • 4” or 6” embroidery hoop
  • Scissors


  • Embroidery floss: any color/s
  • Scissors
  • 4” or 6” embroidery hoop

This class is designed for all ages and skill level.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Alicia Robinson

Think creatively!!


Hi, I am Alicia. I am a wife, a mother, and an artist.  I have a degree in early childhood education and have almost 17 years of experience working with children from birth to middle school.  I worked for three years in a child development center floating from age group to age group until I settled in the infant room for the last year.

I used the knowledge from school and the experience I gained working with children to create a creative learning environment for my two kids during their preschool years. I developed lesson plans that incorporated art into each subject they learned. My children started preschool knowing everything they needed for the first few grades of elementary school. After they started school, I continued to teach them on weekends and over the summer... See full profile

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1. Introduction: Hi, I'm Alicia Robinson. I'm a wife, mom and artist. I also enjoy making things just with my hands. And I like being crafty. So in today's class, I'm gonna show you how to make a memory. Keeps a pillow because with a lot of my art, it relates to my emotions and things from my past and memories of people that I love. So we're going to repurpose materials like T shirts and pajama bottoms or baby blankets, things that holds sentimental value to you that you wanted to keep that you just I don't know what to do with it. So we're gonna make pillows. We're gonna learn how to hand. So we're gonna talk about sewing beads and buttons and sequins on, and you're also gonna learn how to sew initials or words or letters into your material. This pillow, in particular, is in remembrance of my grandparent's. My grandmother was a very happy, bright person. She loved flowers, so I picked purples and my little flowers on here. My grandfather, he waas a great awesome man. And these air a pair of his pajama bottoms that I used for the back. And then I put an iron on patch that says that because he kind of had a electric personality at times. So this is my memory. Hello? 2. Supplies: So let's talk about some of the supplies that you'll need. The first and most important part of the supplies that you need is your material. I have several pairs of my husband's old pajama bottoms, and that's what my son's cut up to use for their pillows. I also have a piece of an old T shirt of an old shirt. I don't think this one was ever made, but it was meant to be a shirt so you can use stuff like that. You also have what's called a fat quarter, and you combine these at any, um, crafting store. WalMart Hobby. Lobby anything like that. You can also buy pre made squares. These are five inch squares on the ones that we make in the pillow or 5.5 inch squares, and that does make a difference when you come to seem allowance, because instead of a five inch block, this would be a 4.5 inch book. But that's entirely up to you. You'll need a who if you're going toe work with the beads and sequins, you'll need all purpose, thread and a needle. You will also need leaves and buttons and some sequence. You don't need to use all of these if you don't want to. But there are videos that show you how to put these on to your material to aid a ruler and sharpies for the measuring part of the video, as well as old cereal box or posterboard, something that's stepping up to make a template with a pencil and scissors you also want if you're gonna do stitching with, like, your name or initials, you want embroidery for some thread, and it comes in schemes like this, and you could buy it in all different colors. And I used patches, iron all patches for my pillow. So if you would like some of those, they have the directions on them and they're easy to use. I also have this nifty a little chalk pencil, and you can use this if you confined one and want to spend the money to buy it. But that's what the sharpies for us, well, but this, um, fleece chop line on your material so that you could see your shape so you can cut it out. That one's completely optional up to you supply and to stuff your pillow with stuffing. This is a premium polyester fibre, Phil. On this is you can find it. Any craft stores? Well, I will have list of all the supplies that you need divided by projects by lessons in the resource section of the class. So if you want to look at those and print them off, I also have links to Amazon so that if you want to order some of the supplies from Amazon, I think I have some links from Walmart as well. 3. Class Overview : Now that we've gone over a quick overview of the supplies, I want to take a few minutes and talk a little bit more about the supplies and discuss how the class will work. First, When you're picking out your fabric, I want you to think about materials that you have. That means something to you. So if you want to repurpose old T shirts or a pair of all pajama pants, maybe a baby blanket or old sheets, that's awesome. Um, you can also purchase new fabrics, But when you're buying new fabrics, think about how those fabrics remind you of someone or a special memory that you want to show in your keepsake memory pillow. Next, when you're gathering your supplies, there is a supply list in the resource section of the class, and the supplies have been divided by project. That way, if you don't want to do all of the embellishment projects, you can just pick the supplies that you need. Instead of buying all of them. Let's talk about how the class will work. The first section of the class is how to create templates using cereal boxes or posterboard . These templates will then be used to measure your squares for your blocks. We will cut a 5.5 inch block, and then we'll use our five inch template to draw in our C melons. A seam allowance is the amount of material that is needed on the outside of our stitching to make sure that it stays together and having these nice straight lines, and our blocks will help us so straight. Before you do anything with your material, any sewing or cutting, you need to make sure you iron everything. Once you've gotten all of your material ironed and all of your blocks traced and cut out. Then we'll talk about how to lay out your nine patch pattern block, and we'll talk about house to sew it together. Then we'll move on to all of the extras. There are five videos that talk about how to add embellishments to your pillow. You'll notice that the last picture on this frame is iron on patch is if you choose to use iron on patch is on your pillow. The directions air on the back of the iron on packed patches, so there is no video covering that once we've added all of our embellishments onto our pillow front and to the back. Then we will talk about how to sew the front and back of the pillow together and how to stuff the pillow. Now that we've covered a little bit more about the supplies and how the class is gonna run , I hope you're excited to get started. Don't forget to add pictures to the project section of the class so I can see your final project. 4. Creating a Square Template: we're now gonna practice measuring and cutting. So I have already cut out two squares and these were going to be our templates to make our fabric squares in a little bit. So I have a five inch one and a 5.5 inch one, and I will show you why we have two different sizes when we get to cutting the fabric. But now I'm gonna show you how to measure your squares onto, like, an old cereal box or posterboard, whatever you have. So basically, you're gonna take your ruler and a marker, And so I'm going to start on this line right here of the fold, because it's a straight line. Someone aligned my marker are my ruler up to the edge. And then I'm gonna put a dot right here at five inches, right there on the foot one right appear. And then I'm gonna come down this way, and I'm going to do the same along this line for five inches. And then I'm gonna come out right here. I'm a measure across five inches, and now I'm gonna come down from this stop right here, and I'm gonna come down. Make sure that's close. So then we're gonna draw her lines across, and you can always measure from here Teoh here and see and put a line a dot there. And that way you can see if it lines up. You have seen perfect 5.5 inches off my damn and then connect your lines here. And they were gonna do the same over here for a 5.5 inch. So I'm gonna go all the way up on this side because I have us tear right here. So I'm gonna go all the way up to this straight edge to I put my little line right there on that line, and then we'll come down to right here, which is 5.5 inches, and then we'll come out over here 5.5 inches, right across that straight line. So there's my dot right there. I'm gonna come across here. I put my dad right here. They were gonna come down here and make sure we went far enough because I don't think that no, no actually did. Okay, so then we could just draw lines unalis check to make sure by doing with this Yeah, that's about that's 5.5. So now I have a five inch square, 5.5 inch square and you guys go ahead and cut those out, and we'll get onto what those air four in just a little bit. 5. How to Cut Pants for Reuse: So once you pick out your three pieces of fabric, whether it's T shirts or pajama bottoms, Oro pillowcases, whatever it is, you want to cut them apart. And I've already cut these two pieces out. And to do that, I follow the seam when I'm cutting. So see, I went right up that seem, and I just turned all the way up and on men's pajama pants. I stop right when I get to fly because you can use this because it's a folded over peace. You can use it for a pocket on another project, and this pair of pants also has a pocket so you can use that pocket or the folded over part for another project as well. So I just cut up to right there and cut across, and then you just trim all the way back down your other side, and that gives you the cut out piece that you're going to use in your project and then iron it because iron material is a lot easier to work with. So once you've done that, come back and watch the next video and I'll show you how to trace your squares on there and how to cut them out 6. 5 1/2" Square Template: once you've cut you were T shirts or pajama pants or whatever you're using apart and ironed . Then we're gonna take the strips that you've made, and we're gonna lay them with the front side of the material to the tabletop. And this is where we're going to draw or trace the templates that we made earlier on to our material. So we made a five inch one and a 5.5 inch one. So for this, we're going to use our 5.5 inch because when we start to so we need 1/4 of an inch seam allowance all the way around. So we're gonna go with the bigger template and we're gonna lay it onto our material and to save material you're gonna put it is close to the edge as you can start mine up here and there are other ways to cut the material. But since we're doing this for kids, this is probably one of the easier ways. At least it was for me, and you're just gonna lay it on your material, and then you're gonna trace it, and you're gonna try on the back of the material and this will wash out, but you will also stitch over it so you won't see it as much. I use a Sharpie. You can use an ink pen. They also have, like, chalk pin things that you can use and that will wash away really easily. It's up to you. So you're gonna trace. You're five inch blocks, and now we're doing a nine patch. So you have three pieces of material and you're going to make three of each fabric 35 inch , 5.5 inch squares with your material. So I'm gonna line this one up because I have enough. See, there is enough in that corner, so I'm not using as much material. And then I'm going to trace again. So see, by lining it up with the edge, I can just cut right here, and I'm not using and not wasting as much fabric. And right here, I'm gonna have to come down a little bit, which is okay. Just follow that line and then make your 3rd 1 and the materialist stretchy. So it will be, you know, just do the lines the best you can. And this wouldn't want to come down over here. So now I have drawn. I've traced my 3 5.5 inch squares onto my material, and now we're just gonna cut those out. So then you just trim right down blinds, and I'm using a good pair of fabric scissors. But you can use regular scissors to they might be a little bit more complicated. Are challenging to cut through the material. But it should work for the most card. Um, and then just trim out your squares on. There you go again for 5.5 inch block. So you want to do that for these two and then your other through two pieces of material, trace them and then cut them out, and then we won't move to the next part. 7. Seam Allowance: So I've cut out my three blocks with this material, and now I'm going to use my other template that I created the five inch one and I'm going to draw my lines for my seam allowance. So you're gonna take the front of the material and turn it to the table again, and you're gonna take the five inch template and you're gonna stick it right into the middle and what I do just to be safe as I take a ruler and I want a measure and make sure that I'm in the middle. So you want 1/4 of an inch seam allowance, so it just kind of eyeball it. Make sure you've got 1/4 of an inch on all four edges so that when you so you have that and then take your Sharpie again and trace your block. This is going to be the line that you So when you get to that point, so just trace that square, because when your hand sewing it's really hard sometimes to stay in a straight line. So putting a line on there really, really helps, um, especially for kids. Okay, so now I have one of my squares with the five inch square drawn in there. So you guys go ahead and do that with all of your blocks and then will move on to sewing them together. 8. Laying out Pattern: Nine Patch Block: Once you've, um, cut out all of your squares and you've drawn your five inch square inside. It's time to lay out our nine patch. Now, I know that I've changed fabric, but I've already had these prepped, um, so we're gonna use thes. So this is all new material, But I'm gonna mix it with an old pair of pajamas, so it'll be new and old material, so we're gonna take our three different colors, and we're going to lay them out in our pattern. So you take one of your colors and you're gonna leg it out diagonally, and then you're gonna take one of your other colors and you're gonna put one block here and one block here, and this one is going to go into this corner. So see how we're starting to have this pattern. We have a diagonal, a diagonal of two, and then one here. They were gonna fill in the open spots with our last material. And this is where you get to have fun and play around. So here's our nine patch. Here's how the nine patches laid out. If you don't like this layout, feel free to change it. If you want to put your a different fabric in the middle, Then put that one down the diagonal and put your other color there and you just play around with the material until you find the pattern that you like or we could put this one in the middle. So see, there was three different ways of laying out this nine block square. So you guys figure out how you want to lay out your material and then lay it in the pattern that you want with the back of the material face up. So you want your the printed side down, and this will help when we start to sell it. 9. Sewing Blocks: Once you get your pattern laid out the way that you want it, it's time to start sewing. So I have all of my pieces laid out with the pattern side down in the pattern that I want. What you're gonna do is you're gonna pick up your 1st 2 blocks and you're gonna put them face to face. You don't line them up like so and then with your threaded needle and with this, you don't need to double up your thread. And I got it tied at the bottom. And what you're going to dio is you're gonna come and you're gonna come right in to that first little corner right there where the where you've drawn that line. So seeing on this side, you see my line and on this side you see my line and you're gonna come right into that corner and then you're gonna pull slowly to that. Not. And then you're going, Teoh, go down and up. If you need to go just down like this and through because you're not, you haven't so before and you need to practice and then come back up. That's OK. You can do it. One stitch at a time if you're a little bit more comfortable than you can do and do a couple stitches at a time. And so you're just gonna hand so it together just like that, and you don't want to pull tie. You want it to stay nice and straight, and you want your stitches to be relatively the same length. So you're going to do that all the way across following that line and then stretching your material back out if you need Teoh and with the, um, pajama material or T shirt material, you're fat. You're your fabric may want to shift, so you want to keep pushing it toe where it is lined up and try not to stretch your material as you're going. Just try to keep it nice and loose, Um, and going up and down because this is just a simple, quick project. Um, it may not be perfect, but that's OK. It's just your pillow. There. You can put stuff called fusing on the back of the material to help stiffen it so that when you're stitching it, it doesn't bunch up. Um, but we're just practicing sewing, and this is just a fun project, so you don't have to spend the money for that. My stitches got a little too long and see right here. Now I have this thread that's doubled up. So then you just pull it out a little bit, and my stitches got a little too long. But that's okay, too. When you're practicing, you can take them out if you want and restart. But just go until you get to the end. So now I've gotten to the end and I come up right there where that, um we're not square is. So now I have stitched all the way across, and it's followed that line, and it should have followed that line on the back fairly close. It's off a little bit, but as long as you're super close, that's okay. Um, so then we're gonna tie it off right here. You can keep going with another one if you want, but I like to just tie it off and then move onto the next one. So you're just gonna go through one piece of the material a little bit down here, and you're gonna come up right where that hole is, and you're gonna pull and I always just loop underneath and pull it slowly and you have one little not right there. And then you're gonna do that one more time, right through that same spot and just make a nice little not so that's gonna hold your material, and then you trim and then you have your two pieces sewn together. So with your iron, you're gonna go and then you're gonna so I mean, you're gonna iron. You're seem open like that. Um, and then those two pieces were done, so you're gonna lay it out with your pattern. So, see, my pattern is here, and here's my next piece. So I'm gonna tear this over after I learned that scene to keep that pattern. So here's this block this block and then this one, and then you're gonna take these two pieces and you're gonna put them together, just like you did before. You're gonna line up the the edges, and you're gonna come through going to tie a knot back in the interview room threat, and then you're gonna come in and you're gonna line them up and you're going to stitch across just like you did before. And then once that's done, you're gonna have the same here and the same here. And you're gonna iron those. Seems so. I now have my first row, some together. So there's my iron seems, and that first round was some completely together. Then you want to start with the next row. And so those two pieces together and iron them and then so these two pieces together and iron them so that you have another road, and then you're going to do the same thing with the bottom sewing these two together and these two together. 10. Sewing Rows: Once you have your squares, some together into grows and they're ironed. You're gonna let them back out into your pattern. Make sure your pattern is right. So, see, I still have my light. What? My white one in the middle and the nine patch pattern is still there. So then you're gonna take your top row, you're gonna laying on top of your second room and you're going to match up the seams, pushing material all the way up to the row to the top of the road, A match your material where it's nice and straight across and see this piece isn't cut completely straight, which is okay, because as long as you're sewing on this line, even if the material doesn't go all the way there, that's fine. So you're gonna even it up a much as possible. And then you're going to start sewing in this corner just like you did when you were just sewing the two blocks together. And then you're going to stitch all the way down this line across Thies to this probe, and then you're gonna do the same thing with the bottom row. Okay, So such all the way across there. So once you finish sewing your top row to your second row, you open it up. You take your bottom row and you like it onto that second room and you line up your seems so you want to match your seems again match record will match your seems. It's not as important about the corner match your seems, and then you just so again starting over here and then you just so all the way across, and then you open it up and you iron it and then you're done with the top of your pillow. 11. How to Load a Embroidery Hoop: Now I'm gonna show you how to load your hoop. I have two different hoops. I have a wood hoop and a plastic who either one is fine. This is my material that I'm gonna use. So I'm gonna take my plastic group and they have this little screw and you want to loosen it up so that you can get the inner peace out. So then you have to pieces, and this one has a ridge. I don't know if you can see right there on the bottom where the hoop sets in so that you don't go past it. See, I can't push it through with my would hoop. This inner peace goes either way, so that just kind of help stop you from pushing all the way across. So I'm gonna take my material, and I'm gonna lay it on top of the bottom part, flatten it out the best I can, and then I'm gonna lay this one on top. So then you're gonna tie in this part, and this is a stretch, a piece of material. So it's gonna be a little bit different than if you have a new piece of material. It'll be a little That will be easier because it won't pull so much. So you're gonna tie in it and then you're going to go all the way around in a circle and you're gonna extend that material there's gonna pull it nice and tight all the way around the hoop. You wanted to be like a drum, and you could tighten a little bit more if you need to, because that's gonna keep it nice and stiff and you can play around with it. You can kind of feel where it needs to be tightened in a little bit more. So then, when you're done with that, you'll have a nice stretched piece of material so that when you're sewing your buttons or your initials or whatever you're putting on here, it's nice and tight, and it's gonna This string is gonna go in. Threat is gonna go in and out easier, and it won't be like trying to sell on this part. So that's how you learned your hoop 12. Embroidering Letters: show you how to stitch letters and words and names into your material. So I already have my material stretched across my hoop, and I have shown you how to do that in another video. Um, so it's pulled across there. It's nice and tie. It's like a drum and you're going. Take your pencil and I always just write it on there so that it helps keep my stitches straight and you'll just draw your letters. Um, I've already done one earlier, so I'm gonna do my are this time, so that's what you want to do first. Then you get a pick your midst, your color embroidery threat, and this is all embroidery thread, and it comes in all different colors, and it comes in schemes. You can buy it in individual colors and schemes schemes, or you can buy it in cross stitch things, and I give you the sheet and I've divided it up. It makes it easier to get the color that you need, Um, so that's going to set that aside. But you have all different colors and already have this one, um, undone and ready to show you, because these schemes come in like these five cords. So if you see, there's 1234 and I have the 5th 1 right here, and you only want one of those. So you wanna pull one out? And I have that right here and this. There's also six separate fibers, six separate threads, But you only need two of them. So you're gonna separate to out, and you're gonna pull him and it gets tangled, so you can't have to be careful. This is kind of a tricky and you just come and gotta keep and twisting it as you go, the closer you keep your fingers together, the closer at the less tangled against. And then you just want to pull that all the way down and to kind of help. I have kind of looped it around my finger. And then I hold it like that, and it doesn't always help. Sometimes it's ordinary, but then you just keep pulling it apart until you get to the end so you can set that aside . And that's why I have this. That's why have this because then you can take this and you could make these two. You get a piece of posterboard and poke holes in it. And then you just push your thread through like that to leave it in a hoop, and then you loop it over, and that helps keep it from getting tangled. And then I time on in a not at the end, right here so that it doesn't get tangled. I mean, just set that aside. So now you only need those two pieces, and then you want to trim off that rough edge right there because it makes it easier to go through the needle and then you just get a needle. There's different kinds of needles. Um, this is just like an all purpose sewing needle. There's quilting needles, and then there's other types, but you just need a needle. Um, Then you push these close together, you might have toe if you wet the ends of it, then that helps, um, pulled him together, and then you just threaded through the eye of the needle. Okay, so then once you get a threat and you pull it and you don't pull it half, you don't wanna double this. You just pull it a ways down, and then you come to the end and at the end, we're gonna tie knot. So to tell you or not, we're gonna lay it across your finger like this, and you're gonna wrap it. So then you're gonna have, like, a shoe. Life's gonna have that loop, and you're gonna take the end of it, and you're gonna stick it right through the whole. And then you have a not, um, with the material that I'm using today, I'm gonna go ahead and make it a bigger not because I have, ah, stretching it. And so it's not tightly, it's not asked tightly woven a some materials. So you may end up having to make a thicker No. And that's kind of weird not, But that's OK. You can trim the end of it off a little bit. Um, as long as it stays in your material, it's fine. So then you're going to take your material where your letter is, And if you can see, I'm not gonna start. I mean, I will start from the back, but I'm not gonna start right at the point of the letter. Wherever it connects, I'm gonna push down. I'm gonna come down just a little bit because we're gonna do a back stitch. Seven a push through, and then you're going on the back. You're gonna hold your finger on the back and pull your thread slowly through because you want your not to catch and not pull all the way through. So then I'm gonna hold my finger right there, and then I'm gonna go back up to the top of my letter. So Sam going backwards. Okay, so there's that and then you're going to make sure that's tight, and then you're gonna come down. So I'm going below that stitch, and then I'm gonna come through, and you might want to hold it again this time just to make sure you get it. So then you're not should be pretty, pretty well stationary in there. Um, you're gonna go back up to that same hole you're gonna pull through, and you're gonna come down when you try to get your stitches to stay fairly even you're gonna go back into the same home. And that's why dry I'm drawing your letters on first. Writing them on first helps because ing it helps keep you on a straighter line. You're gonna do that all away along the letter, try to go down the same amount of space and then back into the hole above. I have a few more stitches until I get to the end, and then I'll show you how to connect good in the next section of your letter, Remember, Stitch, And then I'm gonna come right here in my are. So then you just take your threat there, and then you do the same thing, and you can just and then just follow your line all the way down. It was not a very good stitch. And if you need to take it out, um, you just pull your threat out, which means you have to reload your needle, and then you can just loop like this and pull your threat up. Stick your needle in your pin cushion. If you have two or whatever, you have to stick it in, and then you just pull the threat out, and then you can take it on the back and pull that out, too, if you need to go back a couple stitches. Um, but that's if you need to take out a stitch. And it was actually kind of nice. That I made a mistake. That way I can show you. So if you mess up, you can just take the stitches out, and then you can re thread your needle. Um, and then you just go back to your, um, the front of your thing and you go back down a little bit and you just restart stitching and you could take out as many as you need to, and then you just redo the you know, I messed up all the time. It's OK. Just take your time. So I'm not gonna finish this letter, but I am going to show you how to tie it off. So you've come through and you're done. Your whole letter is done, and you need to tie off your threat. Or if you run out of threat, you just come to the bag and then you, um you go underneath and I'm making so then you go underneath your thread and you pull and see how you got that loop. You just come through the loop and you pull to make one. Not and then you do it again and you go through your loop again. Did you just pull? So then you have a knot and then it's tied off, and then you just take your scissors and you trim red against end. So then you have your letter that's sewn in and 13. Sequin : I'm going to show you how to sew Sequent onto a piece of material. You get your needle with your thread doubled and shine out in the end. And then if you wanted to be a straight line, you can, um, draw with a pencil and just draw the line you want. That'll help keep it straight. You could use a ruler. If you want to help, make sure it's strike, and then you just come up from behind from underneath and you start Bunches pulling your, um, threat up through holding onto the back, making sure you're not doesn't go through the material. Then you get your sequence. You want it to be the round side up because that will go on to the material and you just drop it in place where you want it. And then from there you hold your sequin in place and you go right beside it. So now you have it stitched down on one side, and this is and then you come back up in the middle of your steak once and you go one more time over. And now this sequin will still move. Say it will still go back and forth. If you wanted to stay down, then you can bring your, um, needle up onto the other side. And you could go right back into the middle and then come up with more time on the side where you made your other stitch and then go back into the middle. So now you're sequin iss on there nice and tight and flat. And then you can just do that all the way across. If you want to put another sequent right on top of that one, then you just come up right there and you get another sequin from the rounded side. You push it down on there where you want it, and then you do the same thing, you hold it in place. And since I wanted to line up with the centre, I'm gonna go into the whole of the center of the other sequin and pull it down. And then I'm gonna do that one more time. So now you're sequin is attached on that side, and I'm gonna come up on the other side here. Wow and go back into the center and do that again. So now you have to sequins sewn down and you can continue going. You change the color, you can change the pattern. Um, And if you're done and you want to tie it off, then use turn it to the back. You just go right underneath. It was 30 right there. No. And then you live. You stick your needle through the loop, and then you pull and you do that one more time to make that not nice and secure, and then you just trim it off and I have to sequence. 14. Beads: I'm gonna show you how to sew a bead on to your material. Now it's very similar to the way you do the sequin. You have your needle with your thread doubled and not tied in the end. And then you just come up from the back where you want your to be. I'm just gonna come up right here and you hold your finger on the back for your threats slowly through so that you're not doesn't pull all the way through. And then you just hold your finger there and then you get the bead and you let it drop away . And then, just like with sequence, you can go right to the edge of the beat holding that not in place so you don't pull it through. And then you come right back up through that hole where the not waas and go straight up through your beat, and you still want to hold it and do it slow so you don't pull that not through. And then it should be pretty secured on there and you go back down. You can leave your bead like this if you want, just like you can with Sequent. If you only wanted to have. I feel no on. Lee wanted to be attached on one side, or you can, um, attach it on the other side so you could come up on the edge of the bead and then go back down through the center and then do that one more time. And then there should be. It's so not. And if you want to Rove Beach, you can do the same thing and just continue, um, going or you can put them wherever you would like on the material and then to tie it off. You come to the back and you just pick up right underneath us threats and you loop your needles through you pull, there's one not. And then here is your second. And now you have a beat. Someone 15. Four Hole Button: I'm gonna show you how to sew on buttons. I have three different types of buttons. I have a four hope A and A to Hobart and a shank button. And so first, I'm going to start with showing you how to tie the knot and get the needle ready. So you're gonna look, um, thread your needle and you're gonna pull the thread toe where it's even at the bottom because you wanted to be double thick and then you're gonna tie a knot so you're gonna pull it down around your finger and you're in a loop in, and then you're going to pushed the end of it through, and then that'll pull on that, you pull it tight, and then there's your not and you can trim some of us all so you don't have so much at the end. And now I have my material stretched and who, because I had another project I was doing, um, so you're just going Teoh, come in and up through your material, and then you're going to slowly pull it till that not catches. And depending on the type of material, this is a very loosely woven material. It's a flannel. It might pop out if it's too small. So just be careful. You just do it slow and be careful so that I'm going to start with the four Hope and just stick your whole your needle through the first hole. And now with these were going to go diagonally, it's gonna go across and I have to straighten my threat. So you're gonna adjust your button, and then we're gonna come into this upper hole and go down and we're gonna pull it, and then we're going to do the same thing going to start in that bottom hole. But sometimes she kinda have toe, wiggle it in there and figure out where you are, and then we'll pull it up again and go through that cross holed up there. We're gonna end up making an X with this button and we'll do it one more time. You might have to look to see where it's going and then go back down. So now we have that first part done. They were going to come to this whole and we're gonna do the same thing across. Were going toe diagonally three times across. You do it two times or three times. I'm just doing it three just to show you let me to that. And then once we get it stitched, they were gonna come up underneath the button like this, and we're not gonna go through the whole again. We're gonna pull it up, and then we're gonna hold it, and we're gonna go one to three times around. Okay? They were gonna tie it off. So then, once we've done that, we're gonna go underneath the button, and you're going to go up and under like this. Don't weep it around again and go through the little I hope the loop. And we'll do that one more time and then pulled tight, then just trim. All right, so right underneath. And then you have a button sewn on. 16. Two Hole Button: Okay, so for a two hole, but and it's gonna be the same thing. You're going to just start like this, Come to where that knot it's right there in your threat, in your material, you're gonna put your needle through your butt and and just laid down and turn the but in the way that you want it. Here we go through the whole We're gonna do that three times, just like we did with the other one. But this time we don't have the do the cross. So there is our buttons sewn on. Then we come up underneath and we loop around one to hurry. When we come under the button and way go up, it's going hard to do it this big. Go up like that and then you make sure you go through the loop, you pull a time and then you do it one more time. Go close to those holes again and you do it one more time you went through and then there's your buttons. So not you trim under. So that's how you dio a two hole button 17. Shank Button: So now I'm going to show you how to tie on the shank button or so on the sanctions. But so you're gonna double your threat again. And I've already cut. So you have tie knot, and I've already done that in mind. Um, and you're gonna come in the same way you did the other two. You're gonna just come up like this, pull it to the nod, is in there and don't do it too hard. Trim off some of that thread. You're going to the three like this. And now for this one clips, you're gonna do the same thing like this. Go in, right this come up right there and then you're going to go back through your button like them, and then you're gonna do the same thing. Go under the button and come up like that and then go through the button again. We do that one more time. You're right. It the just like that and you go through one more time, we're gonna go happened under, and we're going to you again. One to Sorry. And now we're going to tie again. So we're gonna go like that. Thank through your loop. pull type and right at the same spot where you can and you're into it again. And then three years read and then pull it tight and there is your snatch but shake. 18. Sewing the Front and Back Panel Together: So now our pillow tops should be finished. We have sown all of our blocks together. We've Sona Rose together. We've added beads and sequins on and we've done some stitches if we wanted to. Everything is nice and pressed, so we're gonna so are back and are front together. And this is a little iron on patch my kids like superheroes. So I found a pack of three that have, like, Zap pal Um, Pop, I think you guys can do those and so on as well. So we're going to do now is you're gonna lay your bottom piece face up, and then you're gonna take your top piece and you're gonna lay it face down. So we're gonna put face to face with the material, and we're gonna even it up. And we already have our quarter of an inch seam allowance on our fabric because we've already had our lines drawn. So we're gonna take our thread, and I have a pretty long piece. It's easier to work with smaller pieces so your threat doesn't get tied up in knots. But it's up to you. However you want to do it and we're going to come to right here, and we're going to start sewing right here. And we're going to just come in right on this corner piece right here. So that's where we're gonna pull through to start, okay? And we're gonna stitch all the way up this, and we're gonna stitch all all of the other side's all the way across, and we're gonna come right back to here, and we're gonna end up stitching this together here, and we're going to stop because we have to leave an opening for our stuffing and to turn the pillow inside out. So take your time and go around this block around outside this side, across here and up to this block and leave this opening, and then we'll talk about turning it inside out and then stuffing it, and then I'll show you how to, um, stitch the opening together 19. Adding the Stuffing: So once you get your pillow top and with pillar bottom, some together, then you were going to where? Your whole list. See, I still have this opening. You're going to reverse your material. So you're just going to start pulling it up? I usually try to go to one of the corners and just start pushing it through. So we're turning it inside out. We gotta get corners turns. You have to play with this a little bit, but it should come. It should turn out pretty easy. Well, here's another one. I knew I was missing one some. So we have our corners turned and there is our pillow and you'll notice here we still have this opening. That opening is where we're gonna put the stuffing to make our pillow nice and fluffy. But before I'm going to start stuffing it, I'm gonna push the edges in like that and then I'm going toe iron right across there because that will help. It'll give it an easier increase for when you're sewing it together to close it off. Malad. It's ironed. We're going to start stepping it. And I have always used wooden spoons. That's what my mom and aunt always gave me. But I have this orange special today, and I've noticed that this corner isn't all the way pushed out, so you can just take the end of it and slide it in. Just push into that corner to push it out all the way. And then once we get all over corners pushed out all the way, we're going to take our stuffing. This is my big bag stuffing, and we're going to start taking it in clumps about like that and pushing it in to our pillow. You don't want to do two big pieces because you need to try to kind of get it shoved into different spots. And, um, when it's too big, it might not move around easily. So you're just going to continue Teoh. But you're stuffing in there, and then as you go, you're gonna take your spoon or your spatula or whatever you have, and you're gonna start pushing the stuffing down into your corners and you have to play with the you kind of move your spoon around inside there, and so what? You push it in until you need to fill in more. So I have a whole bunch over here that I could stuff down into this corner over here pushing him. And this is when it becomes up to you of how soft and you wanted or how firm you want it. And you just keep filling in with your stuffing until you get it to the right Firmness for you. You can use your hand to because us opening as big enough for my hand as well. So play around, and you could separate the material inside it a little bit if you need to. If it feels lumpy, that's why it's better to do it in smaller pieces. That way you can come spread it out and, um, push it in just different places. If you need a little bit more in one area, just gonna fill it in all of the spots and then you guys do that and then once it's to your, um, firmness, then we will. I'll show you how to sew it together 20. Finishing the Pillow: So now you've got and your pillow completed, sewn together. All your stuff is stuffed in there and you have to close this opening. So we're gonna dio you're gonna take a fairly good length of thread and you're going to come in on this side and you're gonna go into your same. You're gonna pull onto just that inside material where you ironed it. He was gonna pull your not through. Okay, now it's inside. Now we're gonna do this zigzag. So you're gonna go just on the inside piece of material you're gonna pull, and then you're gonna go into this side and you want to do it below where we sowed so below that same and you don't have to pull it tight yet. And you're just gonna catch that inside piece of material just a little bit so you can see how it's starting to already. Close it. And we're just gonna do that away across and see. When you're done, you're gonna be able to pull it tight, and it won't be kind of like a little zipper, and I just sip it, ride up, Just go away across making sure we're staying below that ironed wine and on the inside of our fabric. That's why I said that if you iron it and you give it that little bit of Ah, a crease, it helps you stay low enough so that when you are finished, you won't see any of the stitches, and it won't pull it to far in. And you'll still keep roughly that, um, quarter of an inch seam allowance. You could start slowly pulling Sting how I've pulled it now and we've closed part of that same. And then we'll just keep going. If you see right here, I finished up. Come all the way to the end and you see, it's got that little zigzags zipper looking thing. So then you just pull it tight again. Hold your edge of the pillow and you just pull it tight. So now you have your same. So no. And now we're going to come back underneath and we're going to do our, um, tie it off. So you just come underneath, loop your underneath your thread and then pull to make your not there's a little bit of a whole not want another stitch in there if you need. If you have a little a couple little extra openings. You can always do them. Panetta. It'll stitch in there. So then we will tie it off. Well, I'm not. And then we'll put a stuck it on in, always staying underneath out that folded area. And then there's your 2nd 1 or not, and then we trim the threat off and then you have your same cell. 21. Final Thoughts: I hope that you enjoy this class, and I want to say thank you for participating. I hope that your keepsake memory pillow turned out exactly as you wanted it. And I would love to see pictures of your pillows if you wanna post them below. If you have any questions or comments or ideas for another class, uh, just put him in the comments section. Thank you again.