Harness The Power of Nutrient-Dense Foods: Grow a Microgreens Kitchen Garden | Michael Milne | Skillshare

Harness The Power of Nutrient-Dense Foods: Grow a Microgreens Kitchen Garden

Michael Milne

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12 Lessons (48m)
    • 1. Intro

      1:45
    • 2. Seeds: Sourcing & Soaking

      3:03
    • 3. Soil and Trays

      2:33
    • 4. Large Seed & The Stacking Method

      5:13
    • 5. Delicate Seed & The Doming Method

      3:25
    • 6. The Mucilage Seed Variety

      2:16
    • 7. Lights

      5:22
    • 8. Heat & Humidity

      2:12
    • 9. Seed Growth - The First Six Days

      9:57
    • 10. Harvest, Wash and Store

      7:27
    • 11. Easy Meal Ideas and the Nutritional Benefits of Microgreens

      3:02
    • 12. Class Assignment Tips

      1:46
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About This Class

This class teaches a step-by-step method to grow microgreens - some of the most nutrient-dense foods available - from seed to harvest in about twelve days, right in the comforts of your own kitchen. We learn the difference between seed types and how to properly germinate them, grow them, harvest them, and what nutritional benefits you can expect to enjoy when you consume them. We also talk about the hardware that's needed - growing trays, soil medium, lights - and examine proper temperature and humidity levels, all to ensure you grow high yielding, fresh microgreens every single time. 

Transcripts

1. Intro: Hi, everyone. Welcome to growing nutrient dense foods. Today we're going to learn how to starting Microgreens Garden in our home kitchen so we can cultivate and grow healthy, nutritious microgreens all year round. Okay, so what are microgreens? Michael? Greens are plants, predominately vegetables that we grow to their infant state. And at this state, they're edible. So this is actually a tray of some flour microgreens. You can see it's very dense. It's actually at this point, about 14 days old, but the plant is technically in its microgreens state. When those 1st 2 true leaves appear, This is another trade microgreens. As you can see, we've got the 1st 2 true leaves that have appeared, and this is curly CREss. Well, the first reason we want to cultivate around microgreens is because they're incredibly expensive to buy. Sometimes a small little package say 75 to 100 grams can cost 89 $10 towards to see that Secondly, you're never going to enjoy microgreens as fresh as the ones you can grow your own tension , which you could harvest they need right on the spot, sometimes in grocery stores, those microgreens have been harvested a week, sometimes even two weeks before you're getting too. A lot of the nutritional value is the depleted. The other reason to grow them is because they're quite fast. As I mentioned before, this tray of sunflowers was seed 14 days ago. This curly crest was also seen only nine days ago. It's a relatively simple process if you follow the steps that I'm going to walk you through now, so let's get started. 2. Seeds: Sourcing & Soaking: Okay, so let's talk about. See the first thing we want to do with our CDs. We want to soak it at least 24 hours. I do mind for longer. I usually leave for about 30 hours. So one thing to keep in mind is that when you are soaking your seed, make sure there's a lot of head room because as the seed expands, its going to absorb water. But it's also going to start taking more and more and more of that container. So you want to make sure there's more space and more water for it to keep on expanding through. You don't want come back in 24 30 hours and find out that the water level is way below the sea you want to see to be submerged all the time. The seed variety I just soaked. There was sunflower and you'll notice some floated. Don't worry about this. They'll start to sink after a few hours of being immersed in the water. So here we have some flour, and this is the sunflowers dry state. This is a state. It will be with you. Purchase it. These seven hours have been soaked for almost 30 hours and you can see right here the seed inside has germinated, and it started to push through the soft tall. This is the state that we wanted in when we start to plant it. Here we have speckled P and on the left we have second P. That's been so for 30 hours, little tales appearing there. So that's the statement. Wanted to move over to plant it. Lastly, we have zucchini bean and money. Here we have soaked duty being mum. Being the Itsuki bean is just like the P. We've got tiny, tiny little tales appearing there. The mum being No, they're all that starting to split. The tail is starting to appear is well. They've been so for the same amount of time. And you also notice how much bigger they are once they've been. So they absorb a lot of water over that 24 30 hour period. So I grouped together these four seed varieties for a reason. All four of them are relatively quick and easy to grow. They also need to be planted on trades that are going to be stacked on top. And I'm gonna show you how to do that. And I'm gonna tell you why we're gonna do that as soon as I show you how the soil it's right. A couple more things to keep in mind. Number one when you're sourcing your microgreens seed, look for certified organic seed. So this is See, that hasn't been coated with any kind of fungus side or pesticide. And it hasn't been purchased from a conventional farm that possibly sprayed its fields with the herbicide like glyphosate. One of the primary reasons to grow microgreens is for their health benefits. But exposing yourself to these kinds of toxins, even in trace amounts, undermines those benefits. So wherever possible, make sure that the seed your purchasing comes from a certified organic source because it ensures that those seeds have not been exposed to those toxic sprays and treatments. Now there are several different types of seed, and different seed has different needs. There are large seed types, small delicate seed types and Musa Lige seen types, and we're going to plant all three of those varieties in this class so I can show you how the methodology of earning a high yield differs between the three of them 3. Soil and Trays: Okay. So in addition to having seat, we also need to more things. We need seeding trays. So this is what we're actually gonna plant into, and then we need soil. This is your regular everyday potting soil. This is a mixture of vermiculite, perlite and peat moss. There's nothing special about the soil. There are no amendments. There's no compost in it. Since we're growing them for such a short period of time, the plants aren't really going to even have a chance to absorb a lot of nutrition of sorts . So a standard potting soil like this is more than good enough to grow a full trade. Microgreens. This is a planting tray, so it's 10 inches by 10 inches. But once you saw initially at the beginning of this video are twice as long 10 by 20. And that's what's used for commercial growing. But for the purposes of just growing a home kitchen garden of microgreens, we're just going to use the 10 by 10 size. One thing you have to make sure with the trays that you have for microgreens is that there are drainage holes in it, so the excess water is gonna drain out through those drainage holes and then we'll be able to plant the seed. Okay? You don't need very much. So in the bottom of these trays, this trade is an inch deep. I'm only gonna go. I'm gonna put a few handfuls in, and I'm going to spread it out. I'm just gonna try to spread it out evenly below the surface. So we're still leaving plenty of room within the trays. Death? We've only got soil on the very bottom of it. You can see there's still plenty of space within the training. In terms of its death, I've only done two handfuls. Spread it evenly over the bottom and that's it. We've prepared a seed bed for our microgreens. Okay, we're over here. The kitchen sink. We've got a soil trade. The soil is really, really dry to wet. So we're gonna place it in the bottom of the kitchen sink, running the water. Not too hard, just enough so that if you've got with the spray nozzles, that's really any because it's going to spread out of the water and you're not gonna displace too much sweat. So just a really gentle spray. It's a little Really? So do you see it start to cool like that? Stop. We're gonna let the excess water drink with drainage holes, And as soon as all the excess water is drained, we're gonna spread, see? 4. Large Seed & The Stacking Method: Okay, so we have everything Now that we need to be able to see this trade, we water the soil. It's nice and moist. All of the excess water is gone. There's nothing pooling on the surface. We've got a really nice soil base with no excess water. So we're gonna do four varieties of seed into this trade. And the reason I picked these four is because their seed varieties that get stacked on So the 1st 1 that we're going to start with his sunflower and all I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna tip this cop. Sprinkle the sunflower, even the over the surface. You can do different varieties in the same trade if you want to. Or you could do a whole tray of the same variety. Like what I had at the beginning of this video with a full tray of crests and full tray of sunflower. We could do that too. I just thought for demonstration purposes we would do a beautiful varieties within the same tray, and then you can see how they grow together. Okay, 2nd 1 we're gonna do is suspected peak. So we're gonna do a strip of speckled p try to keep it straight as possible. Next is Itsuki that okay, Last is the monkey. So for we welcome. Spread out. We don't want everything on top of each other. A little bit of clumping is okay, but for the most part, you want to give to see the easiest access to the soil it could get. You don't want it to pile up. I'm just gonna spread It's a little bit here and there we go. We've got some flour Speckle P Natsuki Bean and mommy. Okay, so to finish this tray. And this is what has to happen with these different see types, the bigger seed needs help to Germany. So we're gonna put another train right on top of it, and then you lose. This has drainage holes in it. We don't want a whole lot of water or vapor escaping because we don't want the seats Dr Trying germinates. And that's what's going to happen through these radicals. So I'm gonna put one trade, and then I'm gonna take a second tray and the drainage holes and turn it to the drainage holes. Don't line up with drainage holes trade and just placed on top of it. I'm gonna set that down. So now none of the vapor can escape and the seeds are not going to dry out. And then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna wait it down. These were just a couple of years of homemade jam preserves or one leader jars, but they've got some weight to, and I'm going to place them on top of trains. Why am I doing that? What's gonna happen here is we're not gonna crush to see. You don't have to worry about that. What it's going to help with is it's going to improve the connection of the seed to the soil. And as long as we keep it a nice, consistent temperature between 18 and 20 degrees, we're gonna get a nice, even germination. And then over the next few days, as I'm gonna show you, the seat is all that sort of work together in one big group. It's gonna Germany nice and evenly, and then it's going to start toe push up on the underside of the trays. These jars we're gonna keep on pushing it down. But what you're gonna get is all the seeds are working together to push up together and relieve the weight on top of them, and you're going to see over the next few days you're gonna get a nice, even germination. This is how you get microgreens that are all more or less the same leading now. I know it seems I'm adding seed to these trays kind of arbitrarily, and I am just for demonstration purposes. Ah, but the 10 by 10 trays have an ideal amount of seed that should be planted on them, and this amount varies. Proceed variety. So knowing the correct amount of sea to measure and soak before you plant does two things. One. It ensures the highest yield portray of Healthy Micro's and number two. It prevents overgrowth, which is too thick and leads to some micro's dying off and rotting. And that poses a risk to the whole rest of the microbes in the tray. So I'll include the ideal seat amounts toe way out and plant on 10 by 10 trays in the class literature for all the varieties I feature here, so you have it for reference. Also, I mentioned the ideal temperature being 18 to 20 Celsius earlier in the segment and That's really just the bare minimum that microgreens require if you keep your house hotter or have access to a greenhouse where temperatures can really sore, especially during the summer, that's okay. Micro's love, warmer conditions. But one thing we have to watch out for his high humidity levels because that could spell disaster for our microgreens. I'll talk more about that in an upcoming segment to have to re finish seeding the trays. 5. Delicate Seed & The Doming Method: Okay, The second group of seeds I'm going to show you is thes air some of the more popular seeds as well. So the reason I want to show you is that it's a different methodology. Right now. We've got this is Asian mustard and you'll notice that the size of the seed is much, much smaller than what we just had with the sun flower speckled P and zucchini Monday. This is really, really tiny. This is spending Greek, many drinks, an interesting one. It's got like, this sweet, sort of brown sugar ish smell to it. And yet the Green zone taste anything like that. They're not a Sweetgreen of all. This is training radish. So again, a small red seed, it's not that much different than the mustard, slightly bigger without much. And lastly, this is coriander. And the reason I want to do this because I've never planted coriander before. So I know I'm supposed to be assigning everyone project as they worked with the skill share unit. This is gonna be my project. Growing coriander. This is the first time I've ever done so since the seat is so small and you'll notice that the mustard kind of clumps together a little bit. It doesn't shake is freely as the speckled p or the sunflower. Especially kind of clubs. If you need to use a spoon to spread it over the trade. Go right ahead. Okay. Same with venue. Greek. Here's radish. And I'm just gonna Sprinkle this because it doesn't clump together to win. Mustard does. Okay. And then coriander again, Never done before. So I just looked, Came in a little bit fast. Spread this. Okay, there we go. There's express Asian mustard. Then you greet trade radish and Corey. Okay, Here's the fundamental difference between the sea group that we did before that Sun flower speckled, Piasecki being and money. We're not going to stack on this train weighted down with any kind of weights like jars of jam. We're going Teoh instead. I don't. So, once again, I got another one of the 10 by 10 trays. This has drainage holes, so we have to remember that threatening holds a lot of water. Paper has been evaporate through. It's gonna drive the sea, so we're gonna put one tree on top of it. We're gonna take a second trade where the drainage holes, knocking the line up with this, and we're gonna go right over top of it there. We've essentially sealed in the moisture. So this is how this is going to stay for the next table five or six days while the seed germinates and then it's gonna go under lights. So this is our second group of seeds, and we're gonna put this aside now we're gonna do one more tray, and these are completely different seeds than what we've done for the previous two. But they're really simple on the really straightforward 6. The Mucilage Seed Variety: Okay, so the last see variety I want to show you is the eucalyptus eat variety. Ah, quick apology. Ah Mu college, as I've been saying, it so far is actually pronounced Musa Lige. So please excuse that error for the rest of this class. And right here I have curly CREss. So this is that large, lustrous green trade. You saw the beginning of this video in the introduction, and you might recognize this. This is brown flax. And if you've ever used flax meal as an egg replacement in baking, you'll know that when you grind it up and put some water on it and then whisk it, it'll start to drill at NYU's same thing, more or less happens with this seat when we expose it to a wet seabed because it starts to produce a mucus. She would also do this as well Any of the more gelatinous sort of seed varieties. This is how you're going to grow up microgreens from these. So we're to start with the flax, and again we're just gonna Sprinkle right over the surface. The difference is we don't Sochi seats. We don't pre soak them like we did all of those other seed varieties I demonstrated earlier . The reason is if we expose them toe water before we plan, we're gonna be dealing with really gelatinous substance that we're going to have to spoon out. It's not gonna work. The seeds are going Germany properly. So I'm starting with dry flax seed Mrs Brown Flax, and we're just going to Sprinkle it. Do you have a trade with flax? And again, this is a curly CREss, just small red seeds. Same thing sprinkled. Don't pre so, please, that's the key. Replace the two trades on top of it. We're gonna seal in the moisture. We're gonna keep out the light. The seeds are gonna germinate in a nice, warm, moist temperature that's inside of there. And I'm gonna show you over the next few days what happens inside of this thing as the seeds germinate and then start to grow. So we've got about five or six days to go now with everything in darkness, and now it's time to review what we're gonna do from light 7. Lights: so when exceed is done germinating and it's time for our micro trace to go under light, daylight is usually are best and cheapest option. Right now it's March. We have a sunrise at 7 30 in the morning and then a sunset at approximately 7:30 p.m. That gives us 12 hours of light, but it's not always direct, like this window faces west. So we got about four hours of direct sunlight, and I've been another four hours of ambient light as the sun travels around to the back. Here in direct or ambient light is okay for microbes, but they're gonna go grow kind of slow. Under those conditions. We want direct sunlight for as long as possible. Now, if you want to just set up a sturdy table like this, put 10 by 10 Micro's trade right on an old baking sheet, and then you can fill that baking sheet with water, and the soil is actually going to absorb that water up through the drainage holes, and it's gonna keep the soil based nice and moist, so you won't have to worry about watering it. You'll just have to come in and check that the water level is still present in the bottom of the trade. Now, if you have a window that takes a couple hours of sunlight a day, but not very heavily, or if you live in a basement apartment or somewhere that doesn't receive a whole lot of natural light, we have to think of some alternate options. Here's a really economical possibility for artificial life, so I'm growing these indoors right now. This is a bit of a sneak peek on my commercial operation from my, uh, growing large 10 by 20 trays, and they have zero access to any kind of direct sunlight. So I have to bring in an artificial solution. So these are four foot long led shop lights, and since they're led, they run ultra efficiently. They're very, very cheap to run by lefties on 24 hours a day, seven days a week. It would only cost me about five or $6 to the entire year. Well, they don't produce a lot of heat. So as you're microgreens, get taller and closer to the light. There's not gonna be any scorch marks because very, very, very, very little heat coming from the lights It's very simple to set them up. They come with their own chains, and they could be suspended from a wire shelf that's right over top of your microgreens. So if you have a show in your kitchen space that you can mountains from, they sort of suspend over top of microgreens when we turn him on. Very right. They passed 4500 lumens worth of life down onto the microgreens. I've got four suspended here on the shelf alone. It allows me to grow six feet by two feet of microgreens on the shelf alone. That 7 10 by 20 trades, each producing about how so We'll talk a little bit more of a commercial growing in another video. But four foot led shop late is a really, really cheap and efficient method to invest in. We're going to grow trades of microgreens each and every, and finally, this is probably your least budget friendly option. But if you've enjoyed this process and you can see yourself growing microgreens week after week, consider investing in something like this. Uh, this is called a grow light garden. There are lots of different models out there, made by lots of different companies. I'm not shilling for this one in particular, but I like the concept. It's a small footprint. It just sits on a sturdy wood table. It's got built in lights up underneath. Here. The hood is adjustable so you can bring it up and down, depending on the height that your microgreens air gonna grow. And the best part of this is that this is a water basin so you can fill this basin with water. There's a little platform that sits down inside of it, and on top of the platform, we have something called the capillary Matt. Now this Matt fits over the platform and then down into the water basin so it touches the surface of the water. And what it does then is it starts pulling the water up. It absorbs the water into the basin and spreads it throughout the mat so that your microgreens trades are going to sit here. As the roots grow down through the drainage holes of microgreens, they're going to be able to absorb the water out of the mat, and you'll find your soil base in your microgreens trays, stays nice and moist. You don't have to worry about watering them or your microgreens drying out if you forget about them. So again, a little bit more of an investment. But it makes the kitchen growing of your microgreens really quite simple. You don't have to worry about too much of anything if you have something like this. Now, there are some downsides. Like I mentioned, these can be expensive, but spring is coming soon, so watch your local nursery your gardening centre. They sometimes put these on sale around that time. Also, you have to watch with the capillary Matt you can see with mine here. I've had some roots growing into the mat, and this was as a result of not turning the trades. So once you set your microgreens trays onto the mat, make sure you turn them, pick them up and rotate the trays every day or so. And that will prevent the roots from growing down through the drainage holes and then taking root in the map because the Matt starts to get a little bit messy after a while. If there are too many routes stuck in there, so that's 1/3 option for light. Now let's talk about room temperature and humidity 8. Heat & Humidity: So I mentioned 18 to 20 degrees Celsius, which is 64 to 68 F. Is the minimum temperature to effectively germinate microgreens? No hotter is okay, and in some cases it's even better. My trays of microgreens Germany really well at temperatures even as high as 25 to 30 Celsius, which is 77 to 86 F. The problem is that as the heat rises, the level of relative humidity does too. Now, relative humidity is the measurement of water vapour in the air. And if the level of water vapor is too concentrated, it could be dangerous for microgreens, since fungal spores are ever present in our air. Under humid conditions, fungus can propagate in our wet soil medium, and between microbes that are planted a little too densely. You'll notice a really unpleasant smell and all this fluffy white growth spreading throughout the trade. It moves really quickly, and it can kill an entire tray of microbes in just one day. Unfortunately, we can combat this using three different methods. Number one hot, humid conditions could be combated by circulating mawr air around your microbes that since fungal growth takes place under hot, humid conditions. When very little air flows occurring, you can use a small fan. Don't point it directly at the trade because that'll lead to too much drying off of the soil but aiming at the wall or window just behind your tray. So what will kind of bounce off of that wall or window and help increase the airflow to stave off fungal growth? Second thing we can do is place a dehumidifier in the same room that we're growing our Mike Rosen. So in this case, we're growing in our kitchen. And if we place a dehumidifier within about 8 to 10 feet of our growing trade, dehumidifiers naturally regulate the level of relative humidity in our gross space. So this will also help combat fungal growth by reducing that level of relative humidity. And lastly, if you're lucky enough to have an air conditioner in your house to use on those really hot , humid days, the cold air produced by air conditioners tends to be much less humid. So this will do a good job of combating fungal growth in your micro trains as well. Okay, speaking of growth in our micro trays, it's time to check on our seed trays and find out how they're doing 9. Seed Growth - The First Six Days: here we are on day one of our large seed type, and the most visible difference between today and yesterday is that there's that slight lift on the right side of the tray. That's a good sign. That means the seeds are already starting to work together to lift up on ah, on the trays above them. Once we lift off those jars, here's what we see. Lots of germination. Sunflowers on the left are really splitting open, and the seed is starting to send it a little root. Ah, same with speckled p, the zoo key bean and among being, ah, they're all looking really, really good. Here is a close up of that same trade, So just a better view of the germination going on and the routes that are popping out of those seeds and going down to dive into the soil. That's beneath all of these seeds here. Here's what day two of our large seed type brings. You can start to see those first little speckled P peeking out from beneath the the stacked trays. That's exactly what we want to see at this point. And here's a bird's eye view of what's going on underneath. Um, lots more growth. So we're starting to see the first little shoots coming up from the seed, and that's gonna form the main stem of the micro green. And here's an even closer look at that tray. So not only do we have the first, um, growth of the main stem of the micro, but those little yellow, um, tips that you see on the speckled P. That's what's going to form the 1st 2 true leaves of that micro green. We're getting even mawr of the speckled P starting to peek out from beneath the trays on Day three. Underneath, there were getting even more of the main stem growth both on the Natsuki Bean and among being and a little bit on the sunflower. And a close upon this trade shows is even mawr of the vertical growth coming from all four of these different seed types. Things looking really vigorous on day four of our stack seed varieties. And we've got even more speckled p and a little bit of sunflower peeking out from beneath these trays now and here we are with the top off. Ah, lots of growth going on with among being a Dukie Bean and speckled P, especially, were a little bit further behind on the sunflower, but it will catch up once we put it under lights. Let's skip over to our delicate seed type. Now this is the second group of seeds that we did, and we've got ah, mustard on the far left fen You Greek second from the left, tried and radish second from the right and my coriander project right here on the far right . Here's a close up on that tray, so not very much going on with the mustard. But the fenugreek in the radish are looking pretty vigorous. Thes little toughs right here. Ah, don't mistake those from old. It's just the sign of a healthy root. Um, they sometimes have these little hairs that appear on them, and it looks a little bit cloudlike. Don't mistake it for mold. It's not. It's just a sign of a very healthy root popping from the seed. On our second day, we have really vigorous growth in pretty much everything except for the coriander ah, the mustard, the fenugreek and the radish fennel recon. The radish, in particular, seemed to be trying to outpace each other with how fast they're growing. And this shot shows just how significant the vertical growth overnight was beneath the dome . Now you'll see that on the edges. Here, there is some greening happening to the leaves. Ah, it's just because the dome shifted ah, little bit and let some light in. And so that's the photosynthesis taking place there. Ah, the light hit it. And the, um the tips of the leaves are starting to turn green, but predominantly, the rest are yellow and that's okay. Um, we're not expecting them to turn green until we put them under lights in another few days. Now my coriander over here is not Ah, there's really nothing happening over there. That's OK. It's a different seed type than the other three. These three are very vigorous fast growers, But my coriander, um, is just Ah, it's a type of seed that just takes longer to germinate and longer to get going. Day three of our delicate seed type shows, even mawr growth and a lot of vertical stem growth as well, and this shot shows just how vertical everything going. The venue Greek especially, and this patch of radish that's on the far right next to the coriander is really, really outgrowing just about everything. On day four, the growth is so vigorous. I think this will be its last day under the dome and will water it and put it under lights . Um, everything is going really, really well. No signs of any kind of mold or fungal contamination. Ah, except for my coriander. It's lagging a little bit, to say the least. And if this shot shows anything, it's just how tall the stocks of the train radish have gone. Especially compared to my poor coriander there that but there are some tails and there are some signs that the coriander is starting to germinate. So that is very, very positive. We're going to check in on our mu college seed variety now, This was the third group of seeds that we planted. We've got flax on the left and we've got crest on the right. The CREss is looking really vigorous. Um, lots and lots of growth there, and thief lacks lagging behind a little bit, but they're still moisture in the tray. And, um, the temperature is really, really good. So we're going to see a lot of action with the flax over the next couple days. Lots of significant growth over the following 24 hours into day two lots going on here with the flax, especially, you can see a lot of routes coming out of those seeds on the crest is looking really, really vigorous. Um, there's just a few seed holes still attached here, but for the most part it's going very, very vertical and growing very thick and lustrous. Lee. And here is a close up shot of the same tray on Day two. Ah, just showing you a little bit more detail of the growth that's transpired over the last 24 hours. Now here on day three, you can see those 1st 2 true leaves really appearing in earnest on the right with the crest . But flax is following suit. You can see those little yellow leaves popping out of the flax as well at this point, and here's a close up shot showing a little more detail on just how much more growth has taken place over the past 24 hours. Especially with the crest, but certainly with the flags as well. Okay, so just like when we let the soil in the bottom of the trades were gonna water this tray exactly the same way. I'm just gonna make sure it's okay if it's cold and it's okay if it's warm, Just ensure that the water isn't too hot. That used to spray. Just give it a nice even soaking. This is probably the only time we're gonna water this, so we're gonna make it nice and even. Okay, Now we're going to stop for a couple of minutes and just let it drain through the drainage holes in the bottom, and then we're going to take it out into the other room and put it underneath the lights, okay? And we're going to place it underneath the lights, and the lights and the heat are gonna take care of the rest. And that's our first trade done. And the other two will follow a soon as they're at this level. Now that has been watered and spent a full day under lights. We can start to see really dramatic changes with the flax and the crests, and this is when we start to see them all greening up because the lights overhead are going to allow all of that photosynthesis to take place. I removed the jars from on top of it and watered this tray and also put it under lights. So this is after its first day under light. Things have really, really greened up quickly. And ah, the stocks that were leaning over ah on the previous days are starting to stand straight up now. I've also removed the dome from the delicate seed type. So this is its fifth day. Ah, gave lots of water and you can see the mustard, the fenugreek and especially the radish, which is the focal point of the shot. Um uh, have really, really enjoyed being under lights, lots and lots of green, especially here on the radish. And as for the coriander, all is not lost. You can see the seed starting to root and ah, I've kept them nice and moist. So we're going to see a lot more of this happening over the next couple days. Hopefully, this is only the fifth day since we ceded the tray with the Mu Coolidge seed variety. Ah, but the crests and the flax air looking really, really good. This is Day six of our large seed type and its second full day under lights. Things are looking like they're in a competition with each other in terms of growing up towards those lights as fast as they possibly can. And on Day six, its second full day under lights as well. Um, look at the radish. The radish is easily the most vigorous of this entire trade. As a matter of fact, this patch of radish closest to the coriander has grown the tallest and, ah, most vigorous. Definitely. Um and I think that's just because it didn't have any competition from the coriander next to it. However, speaking of the coriander, more germination, more shoots and more growth. So Ah, one day these will be as big as the radish. We're going to finish off with day six of them, you college seed type flax on the left, crest on the right, its third day under lights. I'm amazed with how quickly and how vigorously these have grown, considering they were seed just six days ago. We're gonna leave everything under lights for the next four or five days, and at that point we will have mature microgreens 10. Harvest, Wash and Store: Here we are. We're on day 12 of our microgreens growing. These are the three fully mature trays that we planted 12 days ago. Over here we have Asian mustard. Then you grieve next to that. Our friend Radish has really taken over this whole trade here and then down here is my assignment. I'm going to give myself a C on growing this variety for the most pirate coriander just takes a longer time as a micro green variety. But it also eyes a much lower seed than all of the rest of these varieties that we planted in this big overgrown trey. You remember, we have among being over here, tucked between among being and the speckled p is the zookeeper mean now the the zoo key being and among being looked remarkably similar microgreens form. They actually have very similar height on similar leaf types. This is the speckled P right here and then on the far right. You can still see a few of them have the holes on them. This is sunflower. And then you'll remember Our final train was the Mucha lige seeds. And this is flax and this is curly CREss. So now we have three complete trays of microgreens with lots of different varieties. So what do we do with them? I'm gonna give you a few little tips on how to use microgreens. Andi, we're gonna talk about the nutritional benefits that you can expect when you start consuming. Harvesting microgreens is quite a simple process. All we want to do is grab a handful of them here and then pull up and you'll see that the whole soil man will come with it now because, um, the roots have grown through the soil so we can pull the whole thing up. And then we want to just get our scissor in as close to the soil basis possible to ensure highest yield and then just snip that will come away really easily. Let's get going all the way down the road. One thing to remember about our speckled P is that it can grow quite tall. And the problem is that the tall were that it gets the harder and woodier the stems are at the very bottom, which could be kind of unpleasant to eat. So if you like growing your sprouted respectful p a little bit taller, cut it off a little higher. Don't cut it right at the roots. Cut it the hard, woody part at the bottom and just do it about maybe 1/3 of the way up the stem. So I would for a trade like this, I would probably I feel for how hard bases and I will probably cut it. Is there Okay, here's a look at our final yield that's are decimated trade of, uh, Asian mustard. Then you Greek and the radish we just harvested. I left the coriander to give it a little bit more time to go. It'll clean off those extra radish strands in a moment, but But how much radish we got? That's quite an amount of radish off that small side of trade. Here we are at venue Greek, just a small bit of Asian mustard. But this is so spicy. It's really, really almost kind of like a hot mustard. So you don't need to much of that if you're gonna use that rapture, sandwiches or something here. Is Mom being on? This is a zucchini mean, so they will look remarkably similar. And, uh, this is speckle p. These are sunflowers. Don't worry so much about the holes. Those will come off once we soaking, washing, Spend them. This is our cruelly press. Very, very peppery tasting one there. And this is our flex. Quite a high yield of flax as well. Okay, the last thing we have to do now is just wash our micro grains. This is really important, both from a clinic to standpoint. And if you're trying to get more of those seagulls off the top, washing it will do the trick. And as we immerse it in water, just kind of move them around for the water a little bit and you'll see that the holes will start to detach. Then we're gonna tip this over through a strainer and empty the water, and then we're gonna put it in a salad spinner and just spin it like we would any kind of leaf lettuce. Some seed varieties are gonna be more difficult to drive that others longer. Ones like speckled B and sunflower tend to dry off pretty easily. But there are some seed varieties that clumped like the Asian mustard, the crafts and the flax, and they almost seem to just clean toe water. It's very very difficult to drive, So one thing you can do is take microbes that you just wash once you've spun them. And if you find that they're still not very dry after you've spun them, spreading a paper towel, spread the micro's onto the paper towel and then take another paper towel and place that on top and then just pat them dry and leave them for a little bit. The paper title will help absorb that excess water, and the more water you can get off your micro's the better because they last longer. And once you microgreens air washed and spun and you've taken as much water off of them as possible, consider storing them like this. This is a sealable Tupperware container. I've put a layer of paper towel in the bottom dry paper towel, and then I layered on some of the micro greens on top of that so you can see them down there in the bottom. Then another layer of paper towel and then more microgreens, and then another layer of paper towel. Very top and seal with live, and these will keep in your refrigerator for at least a week. Maybe we can have but try to consume them before then. Because with each day that passes the microgreens, we're gonna lose more of the nutritional benefits. So the freshly you eat them, the more nutritional benefits you're gonna derive from them. 11. Easy Meal Ideas and the Nutritional Benefits of Microgreens: Okay, So for the first idea that I came up with, this is just a simple wrap and I put some vegan manning since in Dijon mustard across the bottom. This is a hard boiled egg through some winter radishes and carrots shavings, all of our microgreens air layered on the right side before I wrap it. And in this rap, I have included the Monday E Natsuki being trite radish and the Asian mustard. So because we included Bung Bean and Itsuki being, we're getting a boost of proteins and amino acids. We're also getting vitamins A B six and see from the train radish as well as a boost in our Cassie. Um, and we're getting higher protein from the Asian mustard and a whole lot of micro nutrients like iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and steak. So for our second idea, this is a salad, and we've got, uh, black olives, carrot shavings, pickled beets, sauerkraut, raw almonds and a bit of 10 pay in the middle. The base is our venue Greek flax and curly CREss. Now all of the toppings that I put on notwithstanding just the combination of the flax, curly CREss and venue Greek gives us lots of fiber from the flax linens and omega three, the value Greek is bringing US. Vitamins B six and C as well as calcium and some minerals like iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc and the press is giving us folic acid vitamin E and A and a dose of linoleic fatty acid. And finally, when we're out of ideas for how to beat them, we can always drink them. So we turned to our trusty juice it. For that, I'm going to juice a combination of some flower speckled P and flax. So whether you're stuffing them in a raft, putting him in a salad or juicing them, you're only limited by the scope of your imagination in terms of how you consume your microgreens, thank you very much for taking the time to learn about the process of growing microgreens, from seed to harvest microgreens air such a powerhouse food. Everyone can derive a lot of benefit from them, whether it's nutritionally, whether it's from the simple satisfaction growing your own food from seed to harvest. That's not something that's common. The experience. Nowadays, we tend to rely on the grocery store for pretty much all of our nutritional needs, but we can do a lot better. I have some more ideas for how to grow and enjoy your own nutrient dense foods. So stay tuned for future lessons, just like this one on Skill chair. 12. Class Assignment Tips: time for an assignment. If you're ready to get planting and harvesting right in the comfort of your own kitchen, now is the time for this. Let's source three things you're gonna need 1 10 by 10 trey or 3 10 by 10 trays. If you're going to plant one of large stacking seed type varieties, these tend to be readily available at local gardening nurseries or even at online retailers . One tip for you. Nurseries sell something called seedling flats, which are trays designed to carrying seedlings around to different parts of the garden. When it's time to plant flowers or vegetables, the ceiling trays are exactly the same as micro green trays. They usually just don't have drainage holes in them. So don't be afraid to take a drill and the thinnest Robitaille and add some drainage holes of your own if you just can't seem to source trays like the ones I featured in this lesson , second thing you're gonna do is source in potting soil, these air readily available at just about any garden retailer or even big box stores. There is the variety that I used in this lesson, but one emerging trend is to use Coconut coyer, which is a soil media made of ground up coconut shells. It offers the same great planting characteristics of the peat moss, vermiculite and perlite I use, but it's far more sustainable since it's essentially just made from coconut byproduct. Finally, source some seeds. Take a look at your local nursery or local health food store, the ones that sell all those expensive probiotics and kombu two drinks. They'll sometimes sells small packs of micro green seeds, so choose a variety are most interested in growing. I recommend Sunflower or P is the most straightforward large seed types. Then you recon radish are pretty easy from the delicate variety, and I would choose crests over Flax or Chia as an introduction to the Meuse alleged variety . And don't forget to post your results in progress. I really look forward to seeing what comes of your assignments. Happy planting everyone