Handmade Melt & Pour Soap Basics - Handmade Melt & Pour Soap Home Business Starter Kit | Phillip Dillow | Skillshare

Handmade Melt & Pour Soap Basics - Handmade Melt & Pour Soap Home Business Starter Kit

Phillip Dillow, Be Driven!

Handmade Melt & Pour Soap Basics - Handmade Melt & Pour Soap Home Business Starter Kit

Phillip Dillow, Be Driven!

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4 Lessons (31m)
    • 1. Welcome To The Course

    • 2. Melt & Pour Soap Basics Part 1

    • 3. Melt & Pour Soap Basics Part 2

    • 4. Melt & Pour Soap Basics Part 3

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About This Class

Want to learn the basics of creating melt and pour soap? In this course you'll learn how to create three fun and unique melt and pour soaps with step by step instructions. We will be creating the following three different types of melt and pour soap in this course:

  • Multi color
  • Reconstituted
  • Clear with embedded botanical 

Learning and understanding these types of soap will give you a strong knowledge base to create your own unique soaps.This class is for anyone interested in learning how to create soap or learn a new hobby.

Meet Your Teacher

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Phillip Dillow

Be Driven!


We are excited to teach you all that we know and build a relationship with you.

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1. Welcome To The Course: however, one of welcome to the course. Thank you for taking time out of your day to allow myself in my wife to show you the wonderful world of melting poor soap. In this course, we're gonna be doing a detailed dive into all the basics that you'll need. We're gonna be breaking down everything step by step, going over all of the ingredients, different options that you have afford to you how to make the soap your own and how to enjoy the wonderful world of melting poor soap. So let's get started. Let's get into the course and let's learn how to be creative and make some fun and interesting soap that you can enjoy either by yourself or as for a gift. Or maybe even for a so business. One day I'll see you in the course. 2. Melt & Pour Soap Basics Part 1: Let's talk about the things you're gonna need for this course. First and foremost, soap base, and we're gonna talk about the differences between Clear and opaque, so base later on in the course, but you'll need one of the two and the soap base if it's opaque and it doesn't matter if it's shea butter, goat milk, whatever the additive is, any one of those is perfectly fine. You're gonna need a spray bottle filled with rubbing alcohol and this is to pop bubbles whenever we're pouring our soap. So this is an extremely important thing that you want to have before you get started. And it doesn't matter the percentage on the rubbing alcohol, 70%, 91 percent, whatever rubbing alcohol is carried at your local grocery store, Walmart. You're also going to need a soap cutter or a large kitchen knife. I use a crinkles soap cutter, which is just has some weighs in to give it a decorative edge, but a straight so cutter, a large kitchen knife or anything else that can safely and firmly cut through a block as soap is perfectly fine. You're also going to need a soap mold, whether if it's a large loaf mold made of plastic or wood, or if it's a silicone mold and different shapes, whatever it may be, just pick a mole that you're comfortable with and you like, and you're going to like the end product. Next, you're gonna need some toothpicks and we use these for everything from popping bubbles to stirring to mixing colorants. And they're just a super useful thing to have around for random needs while making. So you're gonna need a cutting board, any size cutting board will do. Obviously if you're making a larger loaf of soap, Urania, larger cutting board and a stirring implement. I predominantly use a butter knife, but a kitchen spoon or dal rod and worked perfectly well for this, a microwave safe container. Like a Pyrex measuring cup or anything that you can put all of your soap base in to melt it. While we're making soap optionally, you're gonna need cooking spices, baking extracts and vegetable based food coloring to talk really quickly on the food coloring. I really lean towards either all natural GMO free organic products just to try and cut down on the chemicals as much as I possibly can, and the baking extracts and the cooking spices, Those are just additives depending on what type of soap you're making. In the course, we're gonna be making Lavater soap. So we're going to be adding lab and, or to the soap. And it's completely subjective. Whatever you want to add to your soap, if you wanna make an orange bar or coffee bar, whatever it may be, you need to have the corresponding ingredient. Let's break down all the steps that are associated with Milton poor. So the very first thing you need to do is measure and culture, so base and what we mean by this is E to get you so mould, take your soap base block, cutoff sum so Bayes and then break it down to a reasonable size chunks, say an inch to two inches, give or take, and see how much so your mold is gonna need. And how you do this is just simply put the soap into the mold and see roughly. Is that enough, is that nano donating to add more? Do I need to take it away? So don't make the process more complicated than what it needs to be. And if you need to cut the sub smaller to properly, you get an idea of how much soap you're gonna need for your mold, do whatever you gotta do. And whether if using a very large mold or you're using a mold that has a bunch of small, identical units to it is the same process. So never look at a recipe and say, oh, it says INDs XML soap base. Unless you're using their same exact mold, it's not going to turn out right. So always measure and cut and test, fit your soap to your mold to make sure you're using the right amount of so base and be prepared. There is going to be some evaporation and condensing of the soap whenever you heat it. But in general, this method is gonna get you pretty close. Next we're going to cut our soap chunks down even smaller, say to like a half end to a quarter-inch cubed somewhere in there. And the reason why you're doing that as you want as much surface area as possible for it to be able to melt quickly and evenly in the microwave. And how we're gonna do those are antic and microwave safe container and put all of our soap chunks are cubes into said container. And you're gonna heat in ten to 22nd burst. And you're going to notice that the slope is going to melt relatively quickly. So don't start getting crazy and letting it run for a minute or a minute and a half, what will happen is your soap will boil. And whenever that happens, your soap can scold or discolored and just ends up ruining your soap. Also, don't try and skip a step and put, you know, colorants are additives or other ingredients into the slope at this point, it's going to end up turn out funky in the microwave. Lack of a better way to put it. You know, colors, especially of using natural vegetable colors, will cook. And whenever you do that, they're, they're either going to change color or they're going to pick up some odors. So just focus on melting so don't walk very far away. Ten to 22nd burst until it's a nice even liquid. And if you're using opaque, so base, you're going to want to have a butter knife or some other type of stirring implement. That way. Whenever you think it's all fully liquid, give it a stir and see if you fill any clumps are bumps in their odds are it's going to need a little bit longer to get all the big blobs and everything else fully melted down. Once your soap is fully melted now and go ahead and put in your additives. And additives can be anything from orange zest to vanilla extract or whatever colorant that you're using. Or if you're going to be breaking up your soap base to do multiple different colorants. And we're gonna show you how to do that in this course here in a minute. Now's the time to make sure your soap is fully smooth and then mixin whenever you need to make sin to create the color or the type of soap that you want. After everything is thoroughly mixed and you have your workstation setup, how you want it, and you have all your color into whatever you're doing done, then we're gonna go ahead and pour so indoors, so mold. And depending on what type of soap you're making, there's going to be different ways that you pour or different combinations if you're doing like a multi-colored so you're doing a layered so, but if you're just doing something really simple, let's say of an LSO where you just melted. So basin you put vanilla extract into this obey started up and I rate a poor just simply poured into the mould and whatever size mold you're using. Obviously there's gonna be some slightly different kinda ergonomics or dexterity issues associated with that. You know, if you're doing a bunch of very tiny molds, you're going to want to pour very precisely, very quickly and probably not from a very large vessel. If you're doing like a big loaf mold, like what you're gonna see later on in this course. You can use a really big heatwave container and just, you know, not necessarily dump it in there, but you can get in there pretty quickly. This is probably the most important step to having a clean, finished quality product look to your soap after you pour everything in the mold, mean to spray it with a rubbing alcohol and all you need is just any spray bottle from your grocery store or wherever filled with rubbing alcohol. The percentage of the rubbing alcohol doesn't matter. It can be 70%, it could be 90%. Absolutely doesn't matter. What you're gonna do is you're gonna spread across the top. And that's going to pop a lot of the bubbles that form on the top of the soap and most of the rubbing alcohol is going to evaporate away, but you don't want to drown it and rubbing alcohol, so hit it pretty good given a bunch of sprays. But don't know, dump it in there. And if there are any bubbles leftover, that's where a toothpick comes in really handy. You can kinda pop ohm or push them down into the soap. You just wanna make sure the top your soap is very clean, very professional again, and take a little bit extra time to make sure you get every single bubble out of there. After that, it's time to allow your soap to cool and you want to let it rest for 12 hours or overnight. After allowing yourself to cool for 12 hours or overnight. Now we're gonna go ahead and remove it from our mold. And depending on what mode you're working with, it's going to be a different procedure. If you're using plastic loaf mold, you're going to disassemble the mold and kinda pry the mold away from the soap. If you're using a wooden soap mole that say lined with parchment paper, it should come out after you unlock everything. If you're using a silicone mold, you just need to start working the mold until the soap releases from the mold does simply by stretching them old little and pressing on and wiggling it. Most molds are going to work in that fashion. Some of you are less expensive. Plastic molds can be very difficult to get the soap out without distorting or damaging the soap. And on those you're just kinda to take a little bit extra time to gently get the soap out by stretching the mold. In general, most molds work the same. You're just releasing the soap from the mold and then you're good to go. Lastly, it's time to trim and cut your soap if needed. If you're working with a loaf mold, especially one from a plastic mold or a wooden mold. You're gonna need to trim the sides are what I call the heads and the tails to make a good-looking finished product because of the lawn of molds, inclusions or blemishes will develop where the soap touch them old. If using a silicone mold. You don't really have that as much in general, you're just getting it out of them all and it's good to go whatever shape the mold was, Star Tree, what whatever soap mold you bought after this, you know, you can look at wrapping the soap or labeling or whatever else you want to do the soap. But this is all the steps associated with making Milton poor soap. And if you follow just kinda this quick guide, you're never really going to get lost no matter what type of soap you're making. And obviously there are some variants to these rules. You know, if you do a topping on your soap or if you're trying to send up a compound soap, there's going to be a few extra steps, but in general, this is going to get you through most of the mountain poor soaps that you're going to be tackling in the beginning. 3. Melt & Pour Soap Basics Part 2: Here we have all of the rough basic ingredients for soap making. You see here we have some opaque, so base, some clear, so base, different types of colorants and additives. And all these can predominantly acquired at your local hobby shop or add whatever your favorite online soap supply retailer is. But just to kind of touch on why you somebody ingredients that I use. Soap base really doesn't matter. Just pick your personal preference. It could be goat milk, it could be shea butter can be clear on baking extracts and baking additives and food colorants. The reason why I use those as a very readily available and pretty much you can always find those no matter where you live out around the world to talk about commercial grade additives like the different oils and micah, You know, these are great and they work super well. But why you're learning? Don't use the expensive stuff. Learn on there readily available, inexpensive stuff and a quick note on MIGA, a lot of mica, mica industry as a whole is having a giant child labor issue. So you need to be very careful who you purchase Micah from if you choose to use Micah. I get my Micah from a child labor free resource that I trust. That is not in the part of the world where the child labor issues are coming from or I'll use synthetic mica. So just make sure if you're going to use some of the fancier ingredients, be comfortable with them and make sure that they are definitely something that you feel ethically okay with using. We're going to start off by getting our soap based in our mole together. Whatever type of mold you're using, you're going to want to cut your so base from your soap block down into more manageable sizes. That way we can test fit how much soap we need for our mold. There are tons of different types of molds out there. There are silicone molds or plastic molds like what you see is choosing here. You can also use a baking tray lined with parchment paper or plastic ten, that's heat safe lined with parchment paper. Tons of different options out there, but whatever size, mold or shape mold you're using, you want to cut your soap based down to a size that will comfortably fit inside your mold. And we're just trying to get a rough idea of how much so based we need. So don't feel like you have to jam packet. Don't feel like it has to shake and be loosed in there. You just want to fit it in to get a pretty decent idea. And if you need to cut off a little more or take out a little bit, that's perfectly fine. We're just trying to figure out roughly where we need to be. Next, we're going to be taking our soap chunks and cutting them down into smaller pieces, say about an inch and a half to an inch. And then we're going to be putting them into a microwave safe vessel. We are going to be microwaving the soap intend to 22nd burst very slowly. That will we don't burn the soap. A quick note on so base we have standard shea butter so based, which can be found in almost any hobby store. But feel free to experiment with glycerin or. The other different types of soap bases out there, you can find a sure. Local hobby store, our online at Amazon or wherever you'd like to buy yourself making products. In this so far, we're going to be working with red and blue food coloring. And you see here we have our soap melted all the way. And then we're just going to start off by adding some red food coloring to one of our containers and some blue food coloring to the other. And what we've done is we've taken about half of our white, so baser plane, so base and reserved it in a separate heat safe container. And we have two smaller heat save containers for about 25% of our total volume that we fit to our mold. That we're going to use the colorant width. And here we're just mixing up that food coloring into the soap base to create are kinda pinkish red. We may come back and tweak this a little bit later. Let's go ahead and mix up the blue and see how that looks. And this isn't so bad, this is a pale blue. We may also add some to this. What you want to be focusing on here is just making sure that the colorant is fully mixed into the soap and everything is nice and homogenized. You don't want to get any streaky things going on. So once we take a look at everything, we decided we need more. I think that we do so we're going to make this a little bit bluer and we're gonna make the red a little bit redder. Just go ahead and add in a few more drops and color. And this is completely subjective. You know, if you want your colorant to be really, really bold, Put a lot. If you want to be really, really soft, put very little. And just because we're using blue and red and this example doesn't mean you have to use blue and red. Feel free to use whatever you'd like. Yellow, purple, whatever type of color combination you want. The important thing here is to memorize the technique and make sure you're comfortable with what we're about to do. So same drill, we're going to just make sure and get everything fully mixed together. And are blue's a little blue and our red's a little redder. We're going to let these kind of hang out for a second that we're gonna go ahead and pour our planes. So base and we're going to pour about half into the container. Now we're gonna go ahead and pour in our colored soap. And we want to keep it to the corresponding sides, one on the left, one on the right. And we're going to be pulling these at the same time, which will be a little cumbersome. So just make sure and try and make this as easy on yourself as you can. So we're just gonna go ahead and pour in, and we're going to be pouring in about half. And we'll just set that off to the side or reserve it. And now we're going to come back with our white soap again. And you're gonna see the color start to mix a little. That's perfectly fine. We're gonna mix them ourselves just a little bit because we want the red and the blue to kinda have a little bit of a swirly pattern to it. And now we're going to add in the rest of our colored. So this is going to create a fun, kind of cloudy, swirly, almost faux marble sq pattern. Now you will have some blending with the wind soap which will cause some of the red to be a little bit pink year, and some of the blue would be a little bit more pastel. And obviously the red and blue are gonna mix in some areas and causal bit of purple, it's perfectly fine. Now we're gonna take one of our toothpicks that we use to mix everything up with. And we're just gonna make a zigzag pattern across the soap. And this is a really broad zigzag, nothing tight. We wanna make sure and let the color mix a little bit, not mix a lot. Then we're going to spray it with rubbing alcohol across the top to make sure we pop all of the air bubbles. After this is done, you can take a toothpick and just kinda go around and look for any other air bubbles that you see. And once you're satisfied, we're going to let this log is soap hang out for at least 12 hours. Now that r bar of soap has had chance to rest, we are going to go ahead and trim the bar for what I would say is packaging or gifting. We want to start off by trimming the heads and the tails, which is just kind of the far ends of the log. And you're just taking a really thin slice just so we can get our wavy pattern in there. Also, the edges of the soap mould, No matter what mold you're using, are going to have some inclusions and blemishes and we don't want those in our final product. Also don't throw these little slices of soap log away. You can use them as a tester bar or you can turn them into Recon soap, which we're gonna get into later on the course. Now we're going to cut the log in half. And then we're going to trim up the heads and the tails on our 2.5 logs as well. And if you're using a wavy cutter like what I have here, it's gonna give you a interesting wavy pattern all the way around the soap. This also hide any blemishes or deformities in the soap. If you are using a kitchen knife or some other cutting implement, that's perfectly fine. Use whatever your personal preferences. After we get everything trimmed. Now we're actually going to start cutting our bars of soap. And how we do this is you can simply use your finger, your thumb, or several fingers to come across and cut the size of the soap that you want. And yet again, this is completely subjective. If you want a bigger bar, use more fingers. If you want a smaller bar, use a finger, one finger or something smaller than a finger like a pencil. I'm going to use my thumb for this bar just because I think it's a slightly shallow bar and I think being a little bit wider than the finger, using my thumb is going to make a nice good bar for somebody as a gift. And you can see here we get a really interesting fun pattern with the blues and the reds mixing. And we have a little bit of purple in there and some pinks and other pastels. So this is just a really fun bar you can imagine this would be really neat as a gift for maybe a baby shower or something like that. Or if you're doing a joint birthday party and it was going to be a boy and a girl. This can be really fun. Now we're just going to repeat this same process and go ahead and turn the remainder of our soap blogs into so bars. And then we're gonna go ahead and do the next half log and try and keep everything is organized as you possibly can. Once you have your soap cut, you want to try and keep it safe from blemishes, Nick's dings, anything else? Because once it's cut, it's the actual soap that you would be gifting, selling, using for yourself whatever you plan to do with it. And here again, we can see how beautiful this turned out with a lovely marble pattern in there. 4. Melt & Pour Soap Basics Part 3: Let's take a second to talk about what not to do whenever you're working with colorants. You can see here, I'm making a bar bad on purpose. Everybody in their soap journey at some point is going to say, well what happens if I cut this corner? Or what happens if I try all the colors? And what you're going to be seeing here in this little video snippet is how backing it and what a lot of people choose to do like what you're seeing right now is that just keep adding color, keep messing with it, thinking that's gonna get better and they can save it and it's gonna be okay. I'm here to tell you, Don't ever think that you can kinda just ad hoc, keep adding, keeps stirring, keep mixing poor anymore. So Bayes, and then magically it's going to work out better. It's probably not. You probably end up having some bizarro soap. So if I could give you any advice, have a clear goal in mind. Don't try and use every color. Don't you know? If you get, if you find yourself getting in the weeds, don't try and make magic happen. It's okay to do recon, so it's okay to remelt soap base. You don't feel like you have to make everything perfect or save everything. You can save it by reforming it. Now here you see the bar maid and there's a lot of interesting colors in there. Some of them kinda look like, well, baby poop or some other weird hodge-podge of colors. And you can see from this bar of soap, this is not a very pretty bar. It is reminiscent of some gross things. So if you're into this, I mean, I guess that's one thing I can tell you from making this bar and using every single vegetable coloring, this smelt strangely of old beats, which is not a good smell for soap. So just try and avoid this and learn from this little lesson here. The cool thing is in this course we're going to go over what to do with soap, that's a trimming or a mess up or whatever it's called recon or reconstitution. And since this is melted, pour soap, you can almost melt and report as many times as you want within reason. So if you find yourself in the weeds or it's just not turning out right, just stop. Say to yourself, what do I have? Where am I add? And I can always remelt it and do something else. You know, you never want to end up with having used a bunch of product and, you know, driving a bunch of costs into a log or a bar or a mold is soap, just for it to look terrible. So always kinda look before you leap and if you find yourself having trouble, just stop. But I'm going to show you how to save in case you run into this problem. As you can see, it's an ugly problem and we'll check that out in the next lesson. Now we're going to be working with recon soap and that's just a fancy way of saying. So that needs to be reformed or remade. So here I have some trimmings, some what I call heads and tails pieces, some so bars that didn't work out well and also have a heat safe container and a cutting implement. And you can see my he'd save containers dirty. That's perfectly fine because it really mixing and all of this together. So what you wanna do is you want to take this and just trim it down into smaller chunks. Yet again, just like what you've seen before. And then we're going to be taking all this and melting it in ten to 22nd burst until it's fully melted, then we're going to be pouring it into a mold of our choice. So just make sure you have good small even chunks. And as you can see here, just kinda take your Soap leaving soap trimmings and just kinda cut them down into someone uniform chunks. Have to get that done. Let's load up our heat safe container. Now that we have our recon, so pulley melted, we wanna go ahead and get our mole down and I have my molds on a sheet tray. And assuming that because the silicone is little floppy and we just don't want the soap spilling everywhere. This stuff is hot so it would burn or staying whenever it gets on until you wash it off it is soap. Now all we're going to simply do is just start pouring this into the mold. I usually like to fill my molds all the way up to the top, but feel free to do whatever create creativity tells you. You're looking for shallower soap or something like that. Don't feel like get film all the way up to the top. This is a time to experiment. You're using reconstituted soap. So you're kinda getting to use the same ingredients twice. So if there's a molded been one to play with or technique that to going to try. This is the time to do it within reason because you are going to be held to whatever was in the trimmings of your previous soap. And sometimes you're gonna get some really funky combinations. Thankfully here this has turned out to be like a nice kinda light Carmel or tan color. And in the batch of trimmings that I had was sea salt and orange peel and coffee. Some things that are going to work relatively well together. If you start giving too many crazy combinations, you're going to end up with some weird soap. But in general, it's better to use it and do this with it than to waste it. And sometimes you just end up putting a lot of money into a bar soap, either with the ingredients you put into it or the time and effort that you put into it. And he just you don't want to you don't want to waste that and have it sit there and be some nasty looking soap, you'd rather try and turn it into something else. I say, you know, why wasted it's melt and poor soap. It's meant to be made however you want it to be. So after you get your soap fully into the molds, what we wanna do is we wanna take our spray bottle, which is filled with rubbing alcohol. And then we're just gonna spray to pop all the bubbles. And don't worry about getting too much. It's rubbing alcohol, so it's going to evaporate relatively quickly, but don't just pour it on there. You want to make sure and get a good healthy missed but not just drowning the soap. Now we're going to be working with clear. So base here we have some clear so pay. So I've gone ahead and cut up into small pieces and out of the microwave safe container, we also have a silicone mold Would you can see is heart shaped and then I have some lavender and this is just whole dried lavender. You're going to want to make sure and test fit. You're so base to your mold, just like what we did in the earlier part of the course. So just take some your soap chunks and apply them to the mold, makes sure you have the roughly the right amount. And then we're going to be melting this in ten to 22nd burst until it's fully melted. Then we're gonna be adding in our lavender and pouring it into the mold. Now we have our soap fully melted. We're gonna go ahead and grab our lavender and just pour it all in. And there was no real rhyme or reason to this. If you want to do some and then str or if you wanted do all and then store its perfectly fine either way, the important thing is that you get your lavender fully covered with soap. And the reason why that is any lavender that doesn't get soap on it and is allowed to be exposed to oxygen or whatever else is in your kitchen or your bathroom where we're using and so bad, we'll Brown and turn to an off-color, which makes a very unappealing looking bar. And that's the same thing with a lot of your floor roles and some of the other herbs and spices. Just keep that in mind. Now after we get everything fully mix, what we wanna do is just go ahead and have our mold at the ready. Here I'm using a silicone, heart-shaped mold, and I don't have this on a sheet tray. I'm just going to use the cutting board itself as the flat surface. So just mix this aggressively trying to get too many air bubbles into it. But realize that some are going to get in there and we're going to pop those later on. Now we just wanna go ahead and pour gently into the mold, making sure to keep stirring this as we go that way, the lavender is fully dispersed. The last thing you wanna do is have all the lab NOR go into one bar and none into your last bar. And some of this you're not gonna be able to control. You know, you can stir it and try and be as careful as you can. Unless you're just going to really sit there and only do one bar at a time. You're going to have a little bit of disparity between your last bar and your first bar in terms of the additives that you put into your soap. And here I'm just kinda topping off, mainly because there wasn't enough soap left to do a six bar sometimes whenever you measure. So it's just not going to fit the mold. But no big deal. After we do this, we want to go ahead and spray down with our rubbing alcohol that where soap is nice and bubble f3. And then we let this set overnight or 12 hours. Here we have all the soaps that we've made in this course, starting off with our bike color bar, which was the one with the red and the blue. And you can see it turned out really nicely and make a great gift. We also have our lavender bar and you can see how you have a nice separation in suspension and lavender. And then we have our recon bar, which has all the clippings and trimmings from some soap I've made recently. Then our blue star is actually the ugly soap from earlier in the course that I went ahead and turn it into Recon, just to kind of give you an idea of what soap can become even if you mess up. I hope you had fun and enjoy this course and learned a lot about the great hobby of melt and poor soap. And you see this as a starting point for you to come back and experiment with and try new things and create interesting and fun soaps that you can share with your friends and family. Or just enjoy having interesting and unique soaps around the house in whatever form or fashion you like. Yet again, from myself and my wife, we appreciate you taking the time out of your day to come and learn from us and spend your time with us. And I hope you have a great rest of the day.