Handmade Journals: Vintage Journal with Tea Dyed Pages | Linda Matthews | Skillshare

Handmade Journals: Vintage Journal with Tea Dyed Pages

Linda Matthews, Digital & Mixed Media Textile Artist

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7 Lessons (44m)
    • 1. Introduction

      2:10
    • 2. Supplies

      3:40
    • 3. Tea Dyed Paper Pages

      7:01
    • 4. Making the Cover

      9:34
    • 5. Attaching the Signatures

      8:44
    • 6. Attaching the Spine Binding

      8:11
    • 7. Finishing the Cover

      4:21

About This Class

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In this video workshop I’ll be showing you how to make a journal with blank tea-stained pages, and a creatively stitched mixed media cover in a shabby chic style. The journal has a simple cover design, pockets on the inside front and back covers, a hidden spine, and blank vintage tea-stained pages that are just begging to be used.

The journal cover requires basic hand and machine sewing skills, but because all the pieces have raw edges and there are no tricky seams to turn or match, the cover is quick and easy to assemble. It's the perfect project for those who want to learn the basics of how to make journals with creatively stitched covers.

Depending on the type of fabric, image, and embellishments you use on the cover, you can easily create a vintage, shabby chic, or even a nature journal.

SUPPLY LIST
You can find the supply list and other downloadable resources by accessing the "Your Projects" link on the menu above.

Transcripts

1. Introduction: in this video workshop, I'm going to show you how to make vintage style stitched Mixed Media Journal with Blank T Died pages. This style of journal is quick and easy to make using Pell Tex heavyweight stabilizer and fabric to construct the cover on the front. Cover a photo or image printed on the card stock and then embellished with fabric and lace scraps. Creates a mood will seem for the journal and inside the blank pages, a tea stained to given overall vintage style feel. The general has an optional pocket on the inside of the front and back covers, and it's finished off with a ribbon time closure. Signature stitches are hidden in the spine using a simple technique. If you've never made a handmade journal with the fabric cover before, you should find this cover design. Easy to make using basic hand in machine sewing. And if you've had experience making handmade journals, you'll appreciate the simplicity of the design but simply changing the type of fabric and image on the cover. You can easily create unique handmade journals with different types of things. Even though the journal is designed with a vintage theme, it also X well for other types of themes, such as this Nature Journal. Because the Journal has blank pages, you can easily use it to create any type of journal, such as a writing journal, a junk journal or even a memory channel. The chant mind fabric, journalists unique. And there's just something about them that feel special. They're perfect to make and use for yourself or to give us a gift to someone special. 2. Supplies: to make the pages of this journal, you'll need some paper. I like to use £24 weight copy paper because it's a little thicker than standard copy paper . And using thick of paper is helpful during the T dying process because the paper will be less French ill and went tear quite so easily. You'll also need some black tea bags, which are used to stay in your paper to make it look like vintage paper. It's not necessary to use expensive tea bags on the cheap. Brand is perfectly fine sewn paintbrushes, a cheap and perfect for painting the tee onto your paper if you don't want to make vintage style paper. Alternatively, you can use any type of paper to make this journal. You could use plain white paper to make a sketch or drawing journal or even lined paper to make a writing journal. The cover is made in one piece using fuse herbal, heavy white stabilizer such as pell ticks or Tim techs, which is then covered with fabric. This type of stabilizer is thick, very lightweight and easy to, so if you don't have access to this type of stabilizer, you could also make your own thick stabilizer using cardboard felt INF usable webbing. To cover the stabilizer, you'll need two pieces of fabric that a slightly larger than the overall size of your journal. Although I prefer to use hand dyed fabric, you can really use any type of fabric for the cover. You also need some parchment paper or Teflon lining that which is helpful if you want to avoid damaging the surface of your iron and ironing board. When iron infuse a bles for embellishing the front of the cover, you'll need an image that's printed onto card stock, all photo paper. You'll also need some fabric lice and written scripts for embellishing the front of the cover, as well as some strips of fabric Will ribbon, which is used for the tie closure, plus some embellishments such as beads, buttons and charms. Tearaway stabilizer is used to make the stitched fabric collage embellishments, which are then glued to the front of the cover, using fabric, glue or a strong craft glue. For assembling the cover, you'll need a basic sewing machine with a straight stitch, plus the usual sewing supplies such as threads, pins and sisters. To make the signatures. You'll need a bookbinding all to punch holes through the paper, and the cover on all makes it easy to punch the holes. However, if you don't have one, you could also use a thick embroidery, needle or other type of sharp pointed to included in the supply list. Download a several templates that you can use for punching holes for the signatures and the cover. You'll need a black Sharpie or felt it marca for marking the position of the holes. And finally, for something, the signatures to the cover. You'll need some bookbinding thread. Will some thick hand embroidery thread and handing Bordry needle. 3. Tea Dyed Paper Pages: There are lots of different ways to make tea dyed paper. However, I'm going to show you my favorite method, which is to paint the T onto the paper and then bake it in the oven for 2 to 3 minutes. This is a really quick way to t die paper, and you end up with sheets of paper that haven't even color with lots of lovely texture. For making tea dyed paper, you'll need to use black tea. I buy cheap black tea bags is there's no need to use expensive tea for dying the paper to make the tedx I. I like to use four tea bags in two cups of boiling water after you at the boiling water that the teabags steep for about five minutes until the water looks quite dark. The type of paper I like to use its £24 copy paper. This weight of paper is thick oven. Standard copy paper, and you can write on it without the ink bleeding through to the other side. For baking the paper Ah, use old cookie trays covered with aluminium foil. I used to small trays that hold one sheet of paper each. However, If you have a large often, you could use larger trays to fit two sheets of paper. Once the T has steeped, place a sheet of plastic on a flat surface and paint the paper with the tea. I like to use a wide phone brush, but you could really use any type of paintbrush. Give the upper side of the paper of good soaking, then turn it over and paid the underside of swell to turn the paper over. Use both hands to lift the paper at the corners and then carefully flip it over when lifting the paper. Be very careful as it becomes fragile when it's wet and it tears easily. I like mighty staying to be a light to medium shade to make a darker shade. Simply add more teabags to make the tea solution stronger for a lighter shade. At list teabags. Once the paper is painted carefully lifted at the corners and place it on the cookie tray before placing the tray in the oven, you can add a few more Debs of tea here and there to make darker stains. Now the pipe is ready to bake. I bake my paper at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for about 2 to 3 minutes. You may need to make a few tests pages and adjust the heating time settings depending on your oven. When baked, the papers should be completely dry and slightly crinkled. While the paper is baking in the oven, paint another set of papers. Then, once the bank paper comes out, you can quickly putting you set in doing it. This way, you can get quite a lot of paper painted and baked in a very short amount of time. If you have a printer that makes permanent prince like a laser printer or an inkjet printer with water resistant links, you can even print designs and images onto the copy paper before you taste. Stain it. If you're not sure whether your printer makes permanent prints, check the print. Emanuel will make a small test print allowed to dry and debit with water. If the ink runs, then you won't be able to pre print your paper. However, if it doesn't run, then you can safely print designs and images before you paint the tea stain. Once the paper is printed, simply paint the tea stain on both sides of the paper didn't bake in the oven. If you don't have a printer that makes permanent prints, you could get prints made at your local print shop on the laser printer. Once the paper is banked, you can see that the tea stain gives a lovely antique look to the printed pages during the teeth staining and the baking process. The paper tends to become slightly walked on uneven, and if you're planning to write in the pages, this could be a bit of a problem. However, you can easily flatten the pages to make them easier to write on work with. To make the pages really flat, you can all in them use a hot iron with no steam and on the page on both sides until it's flat. This makes a really flat page, which is perfect for writing, sketching or drawing. Another way to flatten the pages is to use a book press Look. Presses can be quite expensive, though, so I made my own using to inexpensive wooden cutting boards and four bar clamps that I found in the dollar store. Simply stack the pages together between the two cutting boards, then attach a clamp to each side after everything is clamped together, I like to leave the papers to sit overnight. Alternatively, you can also flatten the pages by stacking them together, then piling a heavy stack of magazines or books on top and then leave them to sit overnight . Using either a book, press or a stack of magazines will split in the pages little, but they will still be slightly distorted and wavy and notice flat us when using an iron. There's no right or wrong way to flatten the pages, or you don't even have to flatten them. It'll it's just a personal preference and also depends on what you're going to use some fool for this journal. I made 20 pages with five folded pages per signature, which makes four signatures. However, you can make more or less as you prefer. 4. Making the Cover: when making the vintage journal. The first thing you need to know is the size of the pages, so your pages will be the first thing you need to collect and prepare. My pages for this journal are sized 5.5 inches by 8.5 inches, which is a letter sized piece of copy paper folded in half. However, you can make this particular journal cover to fit any size page because the measurements of flexible I'm using five sheets of paper folded in half to make one signature. And I'm using four signatures to make the Journal A signature is the name for a set of folded journal pages. Once you've determined the size of the pages kind of the stabilizer pieces for the cover. I like to use usable Pell Tex heavy white stabilizer cause it's quite stiff and it's easy to. So it's perfect for making journal covers on book covers. Front and back cover should be cut half inch longer in length and quarter inch longer in with than the pages folded edges of the pages will be sewn into the spine, so there's no need to make any size allowance along the inside edge of the cover, making the cover slightly larger than the pages will ensure that the pages of protected from damage because they'll be neatly tucked inside and would extend beyond the edges off the cover. If the pages were to extend beyond the color too much, you risk tearing them. The spine should be the same height as a cover, and the width will depend on the type of pages you using and also the purpose of the journal for this journal. I've set the signatures at 1/4 inch apart because the tea dyed paper is quite bulky. However, you may want to set the signatures closer together if, say, you're making a writing journal with front pages, or you may want to set them even further apart if you intend to add lots of stuff to the pages, making them even more bulky. So the stabilizer pieces together, using a sewing machine in a six X ditch along the inside edge of the front, cover with the edge of the spine. And so all the way down. It's best if you can loosen the tension a little when sewing, so the stitching isn't too tight. this will allow the front and back covers two fold over easily. Also make sure that the six X stitches wide enough so that it so institute pieces together securely. Once the front cover is sewn to the spine along the inside edge of the back cover, and so that to the other side of the spine, the front and back sections of the cover should fold over easily, and the pages of the journal should fit snugly inside. Check to make sure that everything looks okay. We'll make any adjustments that need to be done before moving on. Next. Can't or tear the fabric pieces for the outside? Cover the inside lining and a pocket if you want to include one. I like to take my fabric because I like the look off the roi edges. The outside cover and the inside lining should be 3/4 of an inch larger in height and with than the assembled stabilizer pieces, Pocket should be the same width and about half the height less if you prefer, then the fabric cover pieces. You can use any type of fabric for the couple for this cover. I'm using some of my hand dyed fabric. A commercial fabric will work fine, too, before you in the fabric to the stabilizer. Place a piece of parchment paper or Teflon lining Matt on your owning surface. This will prevent the fuse herbal stabilizer from sticking to your own and cover. Place the fabric for the outside cover with the wrong side facing up on your owning surface , then sent to the pill. Tick stabilizer on top with hand dyed fabric. There really is no right or all side. With commercial fabric, you should be able to tell the difference. It's helpful to stick a few pins along the edge toe. Hold the fabric in place. Hell tech stabilizer is quite thick, so you can easily insert pins into the edges, then carefully flipped the stabilizer and fabric over so the fabric side is facing out. Then press the fabric with a hot iron. Don't use any steam when you're pressing, you want to use a dry. I am work section by section and hold the Iron Firm for a few seconds until the fabric is completely fused to the stabilizer. Don't push the I in backwards and forwards instead press with an up and down motion, so it's not to stretch the fabric as you go. Make sure you wind the whole surface section by section. Once you've finished pressing, check to make sure that the fabric is securely fused to the stabilizer. If not, simply press again for a few seconds. Once that side is done, position the lining fabric on top of the stabilizer and match the edges of the fabric. Using the same morning method. Press the lining in place after ironing, checked to make sure that the fabric is securely attached, then allowed to cool. Once the cover pieces air are into the stabilizer, align the pocket along the bottom edge and pinned in place around the outer edge. Now we're ready to so the cover together when sowing the edges off the cover. I like to use a stitch in the ditch sewing machine foot when sewing you want to. So right along the outer edge of the pelt ICS. There's no need to so through the stabilizer, and this foot has ascended. Guide that you can, but right up against the edge of the pell ticks to make it easier to so along the edges. You can also so around the edges, using a standard sewing foot to make it easier to know what is. So use your fingernail to make a crease in the fabric right up against the edge of the pelt . ICS. So two rows of stitching around the edges to make sure that the fabric is securely attached. Once the cover is sewn in search of pages inside and check to make sure that everything looks good. If something needs to be fixed or adjusted now it's time to do it before you saw the signatures in. If the covers are a little stiff when folding them over, simply pinch along the fold line will likely press with annoying. The covers of this particular journal Once stay closed because of the way it's made. It needs some sort of closure to keep the book closed, which will be attaching shortly 5. Attaching the Signatures: to attach. The signatures were going to sew them into the spine of the cover, using a pamphlet stitch, Give it together your supplies. The book cover and assembled signatures, a large embroidery needle, some strong embroidery, thread, scissors and templates to accurately marked the holes along the spine in the center of the pages. A bookbinding all makes it easy to punch the holes. However, if you don't have one, you can use a large embroidery needle instead. You don't necessarily need to use a template to mark the holes. However, I find that using one makes punching the holes easier and more accurate. You can easily make your own whole templates by drawing the template by hand onto a piece of copy paper or using a drawing program to design them. Thread waxes. Also optional. However, it makes the thread stiffer and helps to prevent tangles. When you're selling punch holes into the templates, using an all or large embroidering it, put pin markers at the top and bottom of the cover at the points where the spina touches to the front and back. Cover and pin the cover whole template into position. Make sure this is positioned accurately because Pell Tec stabilizer is so thick you can't pin things to it like you normally would. So the easiest way is to push the pin signed ways through the center of the Celtics. - Using an all or large embroidery needle. Punch holes through the whole marks on the template run through the couple. This makes it much easier to, so the signatures in place to make the holes more visible. Use a Sharpie or other talk of marking pin tie like the holes because I'm using dark fabric and also because my eyes don't work as well as they used to. I'm using a white gel pin Jemaah clear the holes off. Next, a touch some paperclips or bind eclipse To keep the pages together and, using a sharpie, knock the holes along with centerfold of each of the signatures. If you full the template in half length ways and make a crease, it makes it easier to know where to position it on the page. Fold. You don't need to make large or even dark marks, otherwise you risk spoiling the page. Just make a mark visible enough so you can see it once all the signatures are marked. Now it's time to sew them into the cover measure. Length of embroidery. Thread about twice the page height, plus a little extra for towing and not unlike toe, wakes my thread first because it helps to prevent tangles before sowing. The signatures punch holes through all the pages, using an all or a large and bordering needle to make it easier. Just so them in starting with the middle whole pushed the needle through the signature and through the same the whole. In the Kabul, leave a 3 to 4 inch tail of thread inside the signature. This will be used to tie off the thread. Once the signature is sewn in, push the needle through the next hole on the cover back to the inside and through the signature, then back to the outside through the next hole in the signature. Continue sewing in this way right back down to the other end, then back to the center. Make sure the thread in each section is not too loose. Otherwise, the signature won't fit properly. - Once you get back to the center, tie the thread often a secure, not in turn away the excess. No now. So the remaining signatures into the cover in the same way 6. Attaching the Spine Binding: So now that we have the basic structure of the journal, it's time to dress it up and embellish it. For this particular journal, we need to add a binding along the spine to cover the stitching as well as an embellished image on the front cover. Maybe some embellishment on the back, plus the Tony closure. Before stitching anything to the cover, you'll first need to design it and lay everything out. So you have a good idea of how everything is going to fit together to make it easier to work with the design layout. I like to pin the cover closed. To do this, simply stick a few pins through the fabric along the side of the cover and pin the front and back. Together. I begin the design process by gathering the image I'm going to use on the cover. Yes, well, this fabric scripts, ribbons and other embellishments and then pinning and moving things around on the cover to create a policing design. Things could be pinned to the journal cover temporarily until you're happy with the way it looks for this journal. I'm using a piece of velvet for the spine, binding the fabric should be wide enough to cover the spine, then rep around and overlapped the front and back covers by about an inch on each side. A tour, this piece three inches wide by the length of the spine. I'm also adding a piece of two died lace down the center of the spine to give it a vintage feel. On the back of the cover. I'm going to hand so a small piece of lice, which I'm also going to use to attach my tie closure. I threaded the end of the ribbon through one of the openings in the lace and tied it in or not on. This journal of also used a piece of velvet fabric for the spine binding and a piece of lace down the middle. Then my hand sewed a strand of pill beads down the center of the lice, However, on this journal have done it entirely different. Instead of a vintage style journal, I've made a nature journal, so I didn't use any lice on the spine and instead designed it using strips and scraps of fabric on the front of position, some hand dyed cheesecloth underneath my image. The image I chose is a digital collage image, which I liked because of the colors, and also because it has a slightly vintage feel to it. If you full the template in half length ways and make a crease, it makes it easier to know where to position it on the page fold. You don't need to make large or even dark marks. Otherwise, you risk spoiling the page. Just make a mark visible enough so you can see it. Once all the signatures are marked. Now it's time to sew them into the cover. I don't try to finish things in a hurry just for the sake of getting it done. I like to enjoy the experience of creating something beautiful. Sometimes it will take several days before I'm actually happy with the design On the cover of this journal, I've used a similar design cheesecloth underneath the image toward some texture in a small fabric collage at the bottom, the ribbon closure is sewn underneath and attached to the section, starting with the middle whole, pushed the needle through the signature and through the ST a hole in the cover. On my nature journal, I kept things simple, using an image of nature with a few fabric collage sections on the front. I didn't attach the ribbon closure and instead just wrapped it around the journal, and I didn't add any embellishment to the back. Once you've laid out your design now it's time to start sewing the way the spine and front sections air attached to the cover. It's by sewing the pieces onto some tearaway stabilizer, then the sections a glued to the cover for the spine. Cut a piece of terror way stabilizer and pin the fabric in any other lace embellishments on top. Then so all the pieces together on your sewing machine. If you're writing any hand sewing, you can do that now. Also once soon, tear away the stabilizer from around the outside inches falta stabilizer to make a crease, then carefully tear it away, section by section. Make sure that the spine section looks OK and the size is correct. Then open the journal and lay it flat with the cover facing up. Place the spine section with stabilizers side facing up on a piece of scrap paper. Using a strong fabrica craft glue cover the underside of the spine section with a good layer of glue. I squint the glue on directly and then use one of those junk mail credit card thing east to spread the glue evenly. You want to make sure that the glue is spread evenly and covers the entire area, - Then place the section over the spine on the cover. If you use a tacky glue, then you have time to reposition things before the glue dries. Make sure that the section is said evenly over the spine, then fold the cover closed and reposition if necessary. - Once its position correctly opened the journal. What a few pins along the edge to hold the section in place and allow the glue to dry. I'd like to leave it overnight. 7. Finishing the Cover: the fabric collage section for the front cover is made in the same way as for the spine, binding in the image and any other fed brick scripts to a piece of terror way stabilizer. I'm also going to so the ribbon tie closure to the front cover section once everything's in position, so the pieces together on your sighing machine. Next pin any fabric scraps that are going to be hand sewn. I keep a box of small fabric scraps handy. So when I'm designing, simply dip into the box and pulling out some random pieces and move them around until I'm happy with the way things look. I added some cross stitches to each end of the fabric scraps, but the fabric is still a bit loose, so I'm going to glue it along the top edge, using a glue stick. When designing with fabric scraps. I like to use contrast in colors, different textures, and I also like to lay things often at odd angles. I'm also going to glue on this small fabric Kalash section that I pre made Croft bond glue sticks, a perfect for gluing small sections of fabric and piper, once everything is soon include. Tear away the excess stabilizer from around the outside edges. Position the section on the front cover of the journal and make sure everything looks OK. Then apply some strong craft glue to the underside and glue it in place. - After I had glued the section in place, I could see that the ribbon tie closure was positioned too high, so I slipped it off, repositioned it included in place. That's your work. It's often necessary to adjust things as you go. If it doesn't look right, fix it. Sometimes you have to be a little creative in the way that you do this, but it doesn't really matter how things get done just so long as it looks good. In the end, the final touch was to attach the lace section to the back cover. I was going to hand sew it on, but it was a little walk would, so I glued it on Instead. I wasn't sure if the glue would hold that. So far, so good. I hope these instructions give you a starting point for making your own vintage style journals. I'm not sure what I love most about this process, making the journals or using them. Either way, it's a very creative process, and I hope you enjoy it