Hand crochet a basket with optional leather handles | Cara Corey | Skillshare

Hand crochet a basket with optional leather handles

Cara Corey, Knitter and overall do-it-yourselfer

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9 Lessons (32m) View My Notes
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Materials

    • 3. Sample

    • 4. How to crochet rounds

    • 5. Round 2

    • 6. Rounds 3 and 4

    • 7. Finishing

    • 8. Leather handles

    • 9. Changing the size


About This Class

Learn how to crochet a basket with 1/2-inch thick rope, using your fingers rather than a crochet hook to make the stitches. In the class, you will learn where to get the materials (cotton rope or felted wool yarn), how to make single crochet stitches in a circle to create a flat bottom, and then how to build the sides of the basket with slip stitches. There are also instructions for adding optional leather handles.


These baskets are great for storing craft supplies, toys, books, and other household items. The crochet pattern creates very sturdy sides.

Size: The basket is approximately 10 inches in diameter and 8 inches tall, although yours may come out slightly different. If you wanted to adjust the size of the basket, you could make a bigger or smaller ring of stitches before starting your side stitches.

Difficulty: Easy and beginner-friendly. It is helpful if you already know how to make a single crochet stitch. But since it feels a little different to crochet with rope and your fingers, you don't need to have prior crochet experience. Since the rope is much more stiff than yarn, it is a little harder on your hands. The stitches will be tight, especially for the first 2 rows. By the third row, you start working into just the back loops of stitches, which is a lot easier.


Materials and cost: The 1/2-inch cotton piping cord comes in boxes of 100 yards, which cost around $35. Felted wool yarn from lovefestfibers.com is around $50 per 50-yard ball. You need 40 yards to complete the basket. Of course you can always use the pattern as a starting point and substitute your own materials.

For the optional leather handles, you will need a strip of leather 1.5 inches wide and 13 inches long (to be cut down the middle to make 2), a leather punch and four 1/4-inch long Chicago screws or rivets. If you go with rivets, you will need a rivet kit (around $10 at craft stores) and a hammer or mallet to pound them in. A leather punch is around $10. For the leather, you could even use an old belt!

Look for kits for this project in my web shop


1. Introduction: Hi, it's Carrie from Cara Corey. Designs. Got another great class for you on how to crush a with your hands rather than a crush. A hook. So you're gonna use this skill to learn how to make around bottom and then build up the sides to make a basket and finished. Ask. It looks like this, and it's great for holding craft supplies or toys. Books. Anything around your house that needs a place to live. Um, so basically, you'll learn the technique. And then, if you want to change the size or the shape of your basket, I'll show you how to do that as well. I'll show you some different materials that are great to use for it and also have add mother handles, so you want to carry it with handles. It's really easy to add other ones, and so the next part of videos that maybe about all the different materials you need to make your basket 2. Materials: so the two materials that I think work best for making these baskets are cotton rope. Julian School of this is half inch cotton piping cord, which is used really used like, ah, filler inside of upholstery, so it's not typically used for knitting. But it is really nice because it's soft will being sturdy at the same time. So you look for half inch thick cotton piping cord, and it usually either comes in 100 yard box or in a big school like this, which is more like 200 yards. So I will leave in the pattern instructions from where to find this. It costs about $35 for the 100 yard box, and you only need 40 maybe 50 yards to get a basket around this size. So if you bought 100 bucks, you could make two baskets, or you could make one really large basket. And then my other favorite material is Miss Felted wool yarn. It's called Tough Love, and you order this from a website called Love Fest fibers dot com that pattern as well, and it comes in balls of 50 yards, so one ball is perfect for making a basket like this. It actually makes a little bit more than a basket the size so you could keep going. Make taller could make the bottom larger and have a little shorter and wider. It's kind of to you, but what about all of this is quite a bit more expensive. It's gonna be more like $55 around a dollar a yard, so take that into consideration. But it does come in colors, so this is a nice kind of slate gray color, and there's, like 20 more colors. So if you don't have to die this white broke, it only comes in white. You could go with tough love, and it comes in a color. You could also use other types of rope. His clothes line, good alternative patterns to have her thick or thin your rope that you have is. But these two are gonna be about the same thickness, so you need about the same length to achieve the same size of best. So I'm gonna use the tough love to demonstrate today and also on my website care. Corey designs dot com in the shop section. I have kits that include a ball of this yarn or a ball of this rope, and you could make the cochlea basket with those kits. Look for that you'll also need if you decide to go ahead and add the leather handles strip of leather. This is from a craft store like Michaels or Jo Ann's. It's an inch and 1/2 wide, and if you cut it down the middle, so 347 inch you'll get two straps this thick, which I think is perfect. And then you will see the punch holes in them so that we can attach rivets. Um, if you are buying rebuts, you needn't rivets that are amount 1/4 inch in height and you'll need a rivet center kit like this, which helps you pounded in with, like a hammer or mallet. So there's quite a few things if you're gonna do rivets. If you're a leather worker, you probably already have those. But it's like $10 for this and then a few dollars for mallet in two or $3 for rivets. Safe to add the cost of all that into consideration. And then, if you need to punch your own holes, you need a leather punching tool like this. Um, I prefer to use Chicago screws in the quarter inch height, and these you can order on Amazon or just do a Google search for them. They come with two parts. It's like just a little screw. I have any trouble. Screw it all the way into the hands. She's your base, like flathead screwdriver to screw it in. So I would recommend using the Chicago screws rather than rivets. But you could do either one. So you also need sharp scissors and a Sharpie and a ruler. If you're gonna cut the leather yourself, you could buy it already cut. But I like to just buy one big piece of cut it to whatever length I like, So that should be all materials. You need to do a project and will go on to the first step 3. Sample: So here's an example of a basket made with the cotton rope, and this one has little other handles on its You can see that too. Um, just you probably don't have a great view of the inside, but you can kind of see the circular pattern stitches down there, and then when you turn it over, you can see what the bottom looks like. So it's a little bit different than what the top part of the inside looks like. But basically what you're gonna dio is you're gonna hand crow shea this round part on the bottom. And then when you get to the part where you want to start building up, the sides are actually going to flip it over and turn it inside out and start working up that way. So it's kind of interesting, and you'll learn a single crush, a stitch and a slip stitch, and you'll learn how to crush a and back loops only, which is another kind of popular knitting or crochet stitch these days. Um, so anyway, I just wanted you to see that example of a finished one that's kind of the sides like 4. How to crochet rounds: So I've got my ball of tough love wool yarn here, and I'm gonna get started with the crush. A part? Um, you want to leave a little tale about six inches long? Um, not much longer than that, because you're gonna just weave it in when you get done and we're gonna make a magic ring or a magic loop to get started. Which just means that you'll be able to tighten the loop when you get done so that there's no hole in the middle of the bottom of your piece. Um, in the way that you do that is, you make a slip knot first, wrapped the yarn around your hand until it crosses, and then push a loop through the back. So now you've got a ring there and a loop, and then you want to put another loop inside of this to get started, you got your ring, and then a loop, another loop, and then you're gonna basically go put another loop up inside the ring and you'll put both of those on your finger. That and then you'll pull this yarn through both. That's going to give you one single Croce stitch to get started. So here's your tail. Here's the magic ring and your first stitch. Okay, so we need a total of six stitches in this first ring, and I've got one here on my finger. And so I am going to basically reach back into the center of that circle and pull up another loop and I'll stick that on my fingers, said that I have two loops and then I'm gonna take this yarn, the working yard and pull it through both of those loops. And then I'll take the new loop and put it back on my finger. And that makes two. So I'll just continue doing that where I reached through, pull a loop up on my finger, put it on and then take the working yard and pull it through both. That's three. Just kind of ignore the tail. Here's number four. So the two step process. First, you're reaching into the loop, pulling the yarn through and putting it on your finger, and then you're taking that working yarn and pulling a loop through both loops. Normally, you'd use a hook for that. In this case, you're just using your fingers. So that was number five, and you could see how the ring is almost closed. There's almost no space there, anyway. Go in for number six. But the nice thing about the magic ring is that there's no not, whereas if you just on a regular, not at the beginning, you would be able to see kind of the end. So put that through, not your number six. So is your ring of six stitches little hole in the center and the tails kind of hanging out the bottom. So a lot of times with a crush, a ring, it's hard to tell where each stitch is. But there's if you turn it to the side, a little V on the top of every stitch. Here's one here, that one and that one. So that's how you count. Count those V's 123 for 56 If you kind of squish them together, you could envision that ring closing. And so if you want to move on to the next row where we're gonna increase, you have to find the V to slip your fingers under. So 123456 it's gonna be this one right here. 5. Round 2: so a lot of times with a ring, what you'll do is you'll slip stitch into that first stitch from the previous row, and then you'll chain one, which is to add height before you start working into the next row. In this case, we're actually just going to start working into the next row. We're not gonna do that add height thing. So what we're kind of trying to achieve is like a spiral shape. So instead of having a beginning and ending at the start of every row, will just keep on going. Um, that's just something that I like to do for these. It's kind of to you. If you did want to close that ring at the bottom, he would take the tail. I'm just pull on it now to make sure that's completely closed. Okay, so in order to tell where you are in the row, it's a really good idea. Teoh, use a stitch marker, and I like these little ring ones that you could just slide in. But you could also use a piece of yarn. But see if I'm counting here. 123456 I would mark it on the 6th 1 just so I know that's the end of any row. And then as I finish the next row, I'll just move it up to the last stitch of the next row. So put this back on my fingers and then we're going to start the next row. And instead of doing one stitch in all of the stitches from the previous row, we're gonna do to. And the great thing about Crow Shea is that you can put as many stitches in there is. It will hold. But in this case, we're trying to get from 6 to 12. So I'm taking this finger here. I'm gonna slip it under both sides of that little V in the top. And then I'm in a holy working. You're under there, put it on my finger just like a normal single Croce stitch from the last one, and then pull this working on through them both to complete the stitch. There's one, and now I need to go back under that same V. And since it's a tight space, I kind of get my fingers in there. Open it up, stick my thing, you're back under there and pull up that yard. Stick it on my finger. That's part one. Pull the working in and through. That's part two. My little stitch marker kind of got hit in there. I'll poke it through the front. Now there are two stitches where they used to be one. So then, from here, I can kind of see where I just came out of right here. This little slot. I'm gonna jump over to this one and put two stitches in this V. Here's the V two stitches in there. So by the time you reach the end of this row, you should have a total of 12 and do not move onto the next row until you do. There is one when I'll put another stitch in that same hole. If this hurts your fingers, your stitches are probably too small and too tight, and you need to pull more yarn through before you finish a stitch, especially with a cotton rope. It is tight, and this part is gonna be that most tight of the whole thing. So be very, very gentle in her hands. And if they're too tight, just pull mawr yarn through on each one. I got four there. Gonna find my stitch marker that disappeared because I don't want to lose it. Here it is through. So if I have four, that means I need eight more, and I'm just gonna keep going around the ring. 6. Rounds 3 and 4: actually want to just have the 12 stitches, um, for this row so I can count by turning it to the side. 123456789 10 11 12. Back to where? Mystics marker waas So I can move that up to here and start the next row. And the next year is going to be a little bit different. We're gonna go up to 18. So that means instead of doing to in every stitch like we did on the last row, we're gonna do one stitch in here and then two stitches Here. One stitch here, two stitches here. So you kind of follow that pattern around the ring. And then if you wanted to make your base even larger, you could continue that pattern even more so on the next row. One stitch here, one stitch here, two stitches here. So 112112 Then you could do 1112 on the subsequent rose. So you just kind of follow that pattern to make your base bigger. In this case, I'm gonna stick with this size and then at one more row to get to 18 and Instead of doing the stitches in both sides of the V, where you stick your finger under both sides, we're just gonna do back loops only, which means you just go under the back like that. It's actually a little bit easier and looser row than the previous ones. So if you had a tough time getting here, if your fingers are really stuff, this row should be easier because you're just going under the back of each loop and for the rest of the project, you actually just be going through one side. So I'm going to stick my finger under there, pull up a loop, put it on my finger. Normal single crush A. At that point, pull the air in through. Remember, that's one here, and they were gonna do to in here. Sounds three one in here and to in the next one. So I skipped ahead a little bit where I'm at 15 stitches in this row and you can see that a stirring to kind of, um, sides are popping up and it's like a bowl. And that's okay. That's what you want. Um, way want that tightness. Because when we go to reverse it wanted to be a nice, solid base. So here is number 16. Remember, we're going in back groups only 17 and 18 in this one. You can tell also a difference when you start going in back loops, only you can see this raised edge around there, which I think is kind of cool. That's what forms that really flat bottom. So 123456789 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 5 18 and a ring. That means I did it right. If you do this and you have 19 or 17 I mean, somewhere in your increase, he did too much or too little. Um, so you need to go and count and maybe undo back until where you have a number that makes sense to you. Um, so my stitch markers a little bit left of where I ended because I ended on the last stitch of the previous row so I could move it up to here. And this is where I'm going to do the flip. So I want this to now be the bottom the basket. I'm going to use my hands to press it and turn it inside out. And when I do that, it kind of is a bull on this side and I want it to be flat. So I'm going to turn it this way and kind of punch until I get a flat bottom. Here's the tale is kind of stick that there to hide it flat bottom in a reason edge. And this is where I'm going to start working on my next rose. So this is now going to be the first stitch that I started and I'm gonna be working best way, and I'm gonna be working up now to get the sides of the basket. So you put that back on my finger. Nothing has changed. Except now I'm just working right to left, and I'm going to do a new stitch. This is the Slip stitch, which is actually even easier than the single crochet Cro Shea because it's just one step. So now I'm gonna go through the back loops only of these These run. If you can see the V, they're V there. Go under just the back loop, pull a loop through. And then instead of making a single Cochet, I'm just gonna pull that loop through this loop, and that's called a slip stitch. What it does is it gives you with but not much height, and it makes this cool kind of wave pattern on the side. So just go right to the next one back loop only pull a loop through and then pull it through the one on my finger. Okay, Somebody a few of those you can see. Pull a loop through on the pull it through the one of my finger already. You can see a building that pattern on the side just so pretty. Once you get more and more and more rows of height, we're just gonna keep doing this all away around. You can move this up if you want. You don't really have to, because you can stop whenever you want or whenever you run out of yarn. Um, but I think it's nice to know where you are in your circle, so just keep going 7. Finishing: So now that I've got my basket about as tall as I wanted to be, it's time to finish. Um, so if I come around to where my stitch marker waas um, I can try to finish where I started approximately the same. Um so it's very, very simple. You just going to again leave yourself a kind of a short tail of like, six inches or so and then you're going to just cut right there. If you're using the cotton rope, you want to put a little bit of clears like a Scotch tape around there so that it doesn't all come unravelled. But with this, you don't need to. You can just totally cut it. And then you're going to take that tail and feed it through the last loop right through the middle. And then just tighten that and you can take off your stitch marker. And then so you have this little tale that you need to weave in to the inside of the basket . And so what I do is take this through the next stitch over. I think this really tight and flatten it to get through the next stitch announce on the inside, so I can take this bit and just follow. Can you kind of see, take a line of stitches and just hide them by tucking them underneath a stitch and then going down a little farther, pick up another one and took this underneath and so on until you get all the way down here . And then you also have this little tale that you started with in the beginning, and you could do the same thing where you just kind of pick some stitches on the inside and took it down underneath, so basically disappears. Okay, See those two tales to weave in before you're finished, and then the outside is gonna look like that. And you can decide if you want to leave it this way or if you want to add the leather handles. And so in the next part, I'll show you how to add the leather handles really quickly. I just wanted to go over how you joined two ends together. So, for example, you have two balls of yarn that you want to use the whole thing. Um, you would need to join those two together somehow or if you had, um, sometimes the rope. If you order it comes and it has a little places where two pieces have been joined together with a piece of tape, and that is not a secret. Sturdy, um, so I think it's better if you come reinforce those joints anyway with either rope, cotton or wool, since it's so thick. If you were to cut it, you'd want to join those two parts entirely so you could use a fabric glue like fabric. Tak is a really great fabric glue, and you want it to be real straight. Edges glue it together like that, or my favorite ways to take a needle and thread in this matching gray color and just weave in and out all around the joint there that will hold them together. You could also, if you have a sewing machine, you could try to press them Really, really flattened kind of spread them out later, them on top of each other and then so, um, or you could just do an old fashioned. Not so. It's hard because I have such a little piece. But, um, if you wanted to tie a double knot as a joint, it looks really bad at first, but the more you tighten it not actually gets really small. It's pretty easy to hide, especially if you make it on the inside of the bottom of your basket. You would just cut off those edges really close to the not so that that was all you saw. Um, so that bothers you would glue it. Or so it instead, Otherwise, you can just try not with the rope. Um, my favorite way is to get a, um, what I call a fabric band aid, which is, like you would get a matching piece of fabric and then you would get double sided fabric tape, which you can get at a craft store and basically make yourself like a little piece this big that she would then wrap around the two ends, joined together and essentially taped them with a matching color of tape. So that's what I recommend. Um, and that way you have really strong joins. If you need to connect to pieces 8. Leather handles: Okay, so here's an example of leather handles from you can see better attached and the way I'm attaching them is basically I'm rapping the leather around a stitch. I picked two stitches there, each one stitch apart. So there's one in between both of those, and I'm just wrapping the leather around the stitch. And then I'm putting something in there, a rivet or a screw toe hold in place. There's a lot of different ways you could do this. You could tie it in a nut or one handle going over the top. It's kind of to you how you want to do it. But this is how I do it so really quickly just to show you how I get to straps taking a Sharpie pen and I'm going on the back side, which is kind of softer side, and I would just go across measuring halfway, which is 3/4 of an inch and putting a dot every so often. Now I like my straps to be around 13 inches long. Um, this one is not. This is just an example. It's a little bit shorter. You might need to do some experimentation to figure out how long you want those handles? Remember that each side is gonna have to wrap around a stitch, which is kind of thick. So I've done 12. 11 and I ended up with 13. Some of my students, like, 14 kind of to you once you have that line drawn. I just traced it with the ruler. You're gonna just cut down the middle, and then you get to straps like that. Once you have your straps, you're gonna get the ruler back out, and you want to make two marks on each side for your holes that you're gonna punch. Okay, so I'm just gonna show you too. But you would do that on both sides normally, and then you would take your whole punch. And this is not the skinniest hall. It's the 2nd 1 So it's definitely not the biggest second largest one. I'm not sure exactly what that equates to and inches, but it looks to me like it's something like you've been eighth of an inch. Just go right up to where that dot is and punch the hole. Hopefully have a better quality hole punch than ideo. Mine always pops off when I do it, but you'll get a whole nice hole that could go through the 2nd 1 Hard to get exactly in the center, and then you should be ready to attach your rivets or your screws. I'll just show you really quickly how you wrap it. So you're wrapping it to where the long side is outside, in the short side is inside, and you're gonna match up those two holes when put this grew in. So with the screws that I'm using, one is a flat completely, and one has a little screw in. I don't think it really matters Which one goes where, but the one that's completely flat. It would be better if that when we're on the outside, so pop that through your whole on. Pop the screw side through the other hole and join him up. And then this is where screwdriver comes in. Risk a little turn. Look, it's tight enough that you're happy. You feel like it's not gonna come loose. And there you have it, so you would just come over, skip one, go to the next one, do the same thing there. This one's a little short, so I would probably normally like a side. Use a 13 inch piece. This is just a little example. If you ever need to take it off, just unscrew it with us. Very, very simple. That's why I like those, Um, so that's the end of this part. Like I said, here's the finished one. All ready to go. This is a cotton rope basket. Um, and then I will just quickly go over in the next part how to adjust the size and shape of one of these baskets. 9. Changing the size: So here's the bottom of the basket and you can see that we did to Rose with regular Crow Shea. And then we hit the third row. We did that back. Lupe's only Croce. They gave us that. So basically the back loops only row, that's gonna be the road that's the the most outer row. Okay, so if you decide that you would like to make this basket bigger and you would like to go one more row out when you did your rove 18 you would make that a regular single crow shea and then you would make 1/4 row. And that role would be your back loops. Only croquet. And you would do that. 24 stitches. And you do that with a technique of doing a single crash a a single Cochet in a double single single, double single, single double. You wanted to go another row. Out you go. Single, single, single double. So three and then a double. So on and so forth. You could make your basket this big. It would just take more rope. Um, you could definitely do that, adding additional rows and then make it shorter. So you had like a wide and a shallow basket, so this is pretty tall, but you could just stop here and have, like, a nice, short, shallow basket that was more like, you know, a fruit ball in the center of your table or something like that. Um, one thing you might notice is that the shape kind of curves out a little bit, um, which I think has to do with the tightness of the stitches. So the looser you make them, little less that will happen. But really, it's not a problem if you just put something inside of here and it will start to push the middle out so stuffing your basket is a good thing. You know, it's very sturdy walls, but it definitely will fill out the shape more if you stop it with something. So keep that in mind. Um, I would love to see photos of any baskets you make, and if you decided to change the size and the shape, or if you decide to use different material of love to see that also