Hand Lettering: Adding Flair & Embellishments | Peggy Dean | Skillshare

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Hand Lettering: Adding Flair & Embellishments

teacher avatar Peggy Dean, Top Teacher | The Pigeon Letters

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

12 Lessons (1h 7m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Tools and Materials

    • 3. Lettering: Ligatures

    • 4. Lettering: Tombow Ombré Effect

    • 5. Line Drawing: Leave and Laurels

    • 6. Line Drawing: Flowers

    • 7. Line Drawing: Banners

    • 8. Line Drawing: Buntings

    • 9. Embossing

    • 10. Embossing: Fine Lettering

    • 11. Lettering with Shapes

    • 12. Conclusion

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About This Class

Hand lettering is so fun, especially when it's done with design in mind. In this class, you'll discover miscellaneous ideas to add onto the work you've created. You will learn very basic line drawings of leaves and flowers, simple banners, embossing your lettering, using Tombow dual tip pens for blending colors together, amongst a few other tips. You will also get to discover different ways to connect your letters to embellish on flourishes!


Meet Your Teacher

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Peggy Dean

Top Teacher | The Pigeon Letters

Top Teacher


Hey hey! I'm Peggy. I'm native to the Pacific Northwest and I love all things creative. From a young age I was dipping everything I could into the arts. I've dabbled in quite an abundance of varieties, such as ballet, fire dancing, crafting, graphic design, traditional calligraphy, hand lettering, painting with acrylics and watercolors, illustrating, creative writing, jazz, you name it. If it's something involving being artistic, I've probably cycled through it a time or two (or 700).


I'm thrilled to be sharing them with you! Visit my Instagram for daily inspiration: @thepigeonletters, and subscribe to my blog for freebies and updates.

I'm an author of the best selling books - Nature Drawing & Watercolor, The Ultimate Brush Letterin... See full profile

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1. Introduction: Hi guys, I'm Peggy. You may have already taken my intro to hand lettering class for modern calligraphy and that was targeted towards beginners. This class is going to be ways to embellish your hand lettering, ways to create some flourishes, change up some ligatures, and then some little doodles that you can add to really add to the composition of your hand lettering. Also, we will go over how to emboss, just some very basics to add on to really create a beautiful piece. You'll learn quite a few banners and buntings, really basic leaves, some flowers along with just a few upgrades. I look forward to seeing what you guys create in this class as a step up from the very beginning. 2. Tools and Materials: Hey guys, thanks so much for joining, I'm excited to get started with you on embellishing, and making some flourishes around your standard hand lettering. To get started, I wanted to go over some basic tools we'll need, you don't need a whole lot. If you feel comfortable and you've graduated into the brush pens, then you'll need a brush pen. If not, you're more than welcome to do this with a faux calligraphy style where you add the weight later. We went over that in my first class for just beginning hand lettering. But otherwise just a brush pen, it doesn't have to be dual tip, but I do recommend it because we will be using this fine point marker. If you don't have one of these, then I recommend grabbing something that's a little bit thicker and felt, so that we can do some doodling that's targeted more towards line-drawing. I also have these. This was the Tombow dual point brush pen. Everybody knows these, are my favorites, they have this nice flexible end, and that will also allow you to do a lot of blending colors and creating that really great ombré effect. I also have these smaller dual point brush pens there that do craft, artiste, and they have just a much smaller fine point, and then about the same hard tip as the Tombow. I'll be using these two types of pens. If you'll be participating in learning to emboss or even just practicing, you'll need a heat tool. Hairdryers don't work unfortunately, they don't get hot enough, so you will want a heat tool. This one is just by Nicole. If you just look up in embossing tool, embossing heat tool on Amazon, you'll be able to find these guys for under $20. This is what you'll need to emboss along with some embossing powder and my favorite to go with is this gold color. I also really like copper and silver, I just love the shine in the sparkle that is added to your pieces when you use those. I will be using a more of a matte finish as well, so you'll be able to see what that looks like. Then to emboss, we will be using this VersaMarker, and it's similar to the Tombow pens, it has this nice brush tip, and then it's got the fine point hard tip at the end, and so this is clear ink and we'll use this to start our embossing. It might be helpful for you to have a ruler and a pencil on hand, just to make sure that you're happy with your composition before you start drawing, but really this is more for practice, so don't worry too much about what it looks like. I would love to see the step-by-step in the class project though, so be sure to upload that so that we can see the steps that you took. Everybody has some great input when it comes to the process that they take to develop their projects. Seeing that would be really helpful for everyone, so I can't wait to get started. 3. Lettering: Ligatures: Hi, I am excited to show you some different ways that you can connect your words and your letters, some different ligatures to try, for this one we're going to write hand lettering and where I cross my H is where I'm going to be connecting into where I began writing the word lettering, I'm going to leave that blank and come back to it. I'm just drawing some basic capital letters and then loop around into to a cursive L and just write lettering like I normally would. I'm actually going to bring my E up and backwards to cross my T's, it's a very simple way to change up the way that your letters are connecting. I think just having some blank pieces of paper and a pencil and just writing the same phrase or word over and over, and just find the different areas that it can connect. Then you can create a final dropped based off of that practice. Copies one of my favorite words to do because I will skip the AVS, go right into my Es, because the ups are going to be really fancy. I go from the top of my C and then go into a cursive F loop at the tip of the C and then my other ads is going to come over the other down, loop and then through the bottom of the second half. It looks pretty fancy. Just practice and you'll find a way that you'd like to write things, and before you know it, you'll have multiple different ways. I'm going to write the word wish, It's not necessarily a different way to connect it, It's just a different way to start the word, without having to come from the beginning, It'll come from the end behind, which is just to fine variation. I'm going to put a couple of little sparkles around here, more birds and then finished. This next one, we're just going to join two words together, I'm going to write, "Only human" and just the way I would normally write it but the tail of the Y is going to be the cross of my H. Everything else is just as it would be. Just bring it out a little further there, and then finish the word. You're going to play with the word guide, and guide can have a fun flourish from the tip of that G, similar to earlier when we did one on C. Then that tip is actually what guides us into the tail of our D. I'm going to make the basic D here, curl the tip over and create it into my tail of my D. That's just a very fun easy way, to connect pieces of letters on a word that you wouldn't normally think to do. Then I'm just going to write field in regular capital letters, with heavyweight down strokes and I'm going to do a quick do a tree down here. That's the last example. You guys just play with your lettering and then see how things can act with a pencil and then you can start practicing drawing them as they naturally occur. 4. Lettering: Tombow Ombré Effect: In this segment, we're going to go over some blending techniques with the Tombow pens, the dual point pens using the blending palette they have. On the back you'll find every color that they offer in these pens, which is also pretty neat. To get started, we're going to take our darker color and I have red and orange here, I'm going to take the red and I'm going to draw onto the blending palette. Then I'm going to take the orange color and dip it into that ink. What it'll do is pick up that red color and as I write, it will start to fade and go back to the normal orange color. It's actually really simple. If you don't have a blending palette, any laminated surface will work as well. I just like the blending palette because it does have every color and the pens themselves don't have the colors listed. They have numbers that you can correlate with the names. Anytime that you feel like it's getting back to its normal color and you want to have that blend again, just dip back into the color that's on the palette. Like right here, I'm going to add some more. What's also pretty neat is once you have a word written, you can go back in there and dip a little bit more in and then just go over that letter. These are the clear blending pens that they have. These can be dipped into those colors solid and so then it will fade out to being more of a watercolor technique. It will also help blend those colors into a word you've already written. Those clear pens come in most of the packs that Tombow sells. Then I'm just going to do the same thing here, blend out and get back to that orange and then I'm going to re-dip. Sometimes I'll go back into the letter I just finished with and go over the lighter color just to make it blend a little bit better. Yeah, that is about it. There's not a whole lot more to it. It's pretty self-explanatory. These pens are great because they do self clean and so it's very easy to get them back to their natural state without staining. From here, you don't have to do much more. You have a complete piece. You can add any doodles that you want but otherwise that's about it. We're going to do another one here. I'm just going to use two different shades of yellow on this one. It's going to be a lot more subtle but I'm going to show you how that can add just a slight amount of depth to change up your hand lettering. This is the darker yellow and then I'm going to take the lighter and dip it into this color and it's very subtle. Towards the top you can see how it is much darker, and then the bottom it gets lighter. They're pretty similar in the hue and tone of the color which I. Sometimes with these, you'll find that you pick up most of the color and you'll have to go on the blending palette one more time with the darker color to make sure that you keep grabbing from the darker and you're not just coloring over it with one color. I'm going to add a little flourish in here. Like that and then go back in and on this guy for the most part and keeping the darker color toward the top. Whereas the last one I was doing it at the beginning of every other letter or so and I put a little darker back on here so I can dip into that. This particular design, I'm switching at my lettering quite a bit in between some lowercase and some uppercase, some flourishes. I'm going to throw in my capital E and when you want to clean these pens off, if they still have some of that darker color attached to them, just color on the blending palette a little bit and it comes off really quickly and then you can see it right there that it's lightened up. The blending palette just splits with water and then it just wipes away. It's really simple. It's one of the things I love about these so much, these pens is that they restore so quickly and just above sunshine, I'm going to throw in some regular capital letters with the other tip of the pen. It's a smaller hard tip and I'm using the darker of the yellows for some contrast. Then I'm actually going to grab that lighter yellow and use the brush tip again to do some quick little sun bursts right above here and that finishes it. Then I'm going to show you guys one more of that Andre style, but with two very different colors. We have this nice medium rich blue. Then I have a very light pink and we're going to be dipping that into the blue. If you know the color wheel, we're going to see quite a bit of purple here. Then don't forget, you can always redo the darker color on the blending palette if it looks like it's getting too light and it's not picking up much of that darker color anymore. It's entirely up to you. You may not want to have the starting color through the whole thing. You might just want it in the beginning and that's totally fine too. I tend to like to incorporate it throughout the whole phrase. I'm going to keep dipping into the blue and finish. I really encourage you guys to play with different colors because there really are a lot of great combinations that you can make and some of them are really unexpected. I'm going to show you how to clean this off. I'm going to wipe it on the blending palette. Then it just self cleans and it'll take all that blue away. Then from here. Tombow has this little water spritzer, I love it because it's really small. It does not leak and I can carry it around with me and my pen case looks like this. Then I just will wipe this away. 5. Line Drawing: Leave and Laurels: In this segment, we are going to be learning some leaves that we can do for embellishing around hand lettering. I'm going to be using the Dual Brush Pen by Tombow and the hard tip side. We're just going to do a real simple line, curved, and then some teardrop leaves. They're a little broader on one side and then they come to a point, and then I'm going to bring some little stems out here that the leaves will connect to, and then just keep doing these little teardrops all the way down. Then on the other side just make it match, and sometimes it's fun to make the leaves get bigger as you get more toward the base. I'm just keeping these all about the same size. You can keep it like this and that can be finished or you can add lines through the center, and then have a final little drawing here just like that. You can also add the little veins in the leaves for a little more detail. But really these can just be very simple drawings, and it's easy to overdo it because we don't realize how we can make them very basic and have them look really nice at the finish product. If you look at some other pieces from other people they look very intricate but if you really break it down you can see that they are actually quite simple. They are something that we can recreate very easily. For another style, just another real simple line here. Instead of doing the tear drops from the base out towards the point it hits at the end I'm going do it the opposite way so the point is actually coming off of the stem here. This is just a different type of branch from a different type of plant. Real simple and then it's just finished and that took me no time at all. Then we can do another form of the first one that we did by doing another real basic line, just simple, and then instead of using these stems that we did initially we can just forego them and have the base connect directly to the first line that we drew. It's just another style and they look a little bit more concentrated. These are typically the ones that I always draw myself. Just like that. We can move on to more of a branch type, switching colors to go to a brown, same hard tip and just do a line with a little bit of imperfection and then we're just going to branch off with these easy lines and then add a little ball to the end. Just quick little branches off the main stem, add some to the end of that one and then just some balls at the end. Now, these don't have to have any rhyme or liason with the patterns just branching off. This look really nice especially for the holidays, because you can do them in a gold ink or a silver ink, but they also look good for more of a forestry type of vibe or like the woodland type mood. They are just a lot more rustic, but also very simple to create which you wouldn't know when you first glance at it but it's just some line work. Man, that one is complete. Let's move on to creating more of that Laurel look where you have the two branches that meet at the bottom. You'll just do those real simple lines, they don't have to be completely perfect, and then we're just going to add our leaves onto the main area here just by doing those teardrops again. Really all this is exactly what we did initially with those stems, that they just meet at the bottom and they make for a really pretty embellishment. Then other side, same thing, just make sure they mirror each other. I like to keep my leaves on each side together because I find that the real leaves are so symmetric, it's surprising you wouldn't expect it to be because there's so many imperfections in nature, which is what I love so much. But yeah, they are very symmetric. I keep mine together for the most part, sometimes I'll stagger them, but especially with Laurels I like to keep them nice and clean. Then just like this and then you have your Laurel. I want to show you another way to do this with a lot of those leaves that we did the second time that are really close together, which can look really pretty too. All you do is just take those little teardrops from the base and then do a quick loop around, just meet back at the main stem there. Then that can be a real pretty flourish underneath some word or a phrase just like that. I want to show you a couple of variations of what you can do to the interior of some leaves and this can be any shape of leaf. I'm going to bring this up and draw a couple leaves here, and then I'll show you some different options you can do on the inside. I can do my main line down the center and then instead of completely filling with the veins, I'm just going to do it on one side of the line. They don't have to be on the same side each time, so you can do some on the right. You can keep it on the right, you can do some on the left, and that can be some extra character that you add in. That's a fun one to do and this can be again, any shape of leaf that you decide. Just a couple through here. Just play with different variations of doing line work on leaves that can be a really fun Doodle project. It can also be a really great addition to any other project. If you have some flowers and you want to just have a branch coming out of them or it can be from the top, it can be from the side or on the bottom. Nothing wanting, but just experiment with different ways to do this lining inside and then the shape on the outside. You can also add some little florols coming off of the stem here. I'm just going to add some little yellow dots that come off and that can be a really fun addition and it's just really simple, but it does change the look of it so I encourage you to play with that as well. Even adding red would be a lot of fun, so play with some line work on your leaves. 6. Line Drawing: Flowers: We're going to go over some quick flowers in this segment. The first one I'll show you is more of a soft look. It's a focus on some light petals. So you'll just bring your petal up, and then in the middle, you will create a little dip. I'll usually put in about five petals. It's okay if they overlap just a little bit. It's okay also if they're imperfect because the more free form they are, the more they look nice and delicate I think. From here, I will just add a swirl in the center, I don't really make it too defined. Then I'll just add a couple little lines coming from the center to give it a little texture, and that's it. You can also add some lines coming from the middle or from the edges of the flower. Bring that up. But yeah, that's just your very typical loose petaled flower. I'm going to add one more and show you another little trick you can do with petals. This one, I'm going to just give it a half fill when I draw it because right here I'm going to have the petal bend and flop forward. All you do is just add a little curvy V right there and then it creates the band and the petal. Then I'll just add these same lines, the same center that I did before. If you're doing multiple flowers of this kind, you can have a little bit of emphasis in different types of petals and have them come over like that. You can also shade the back and create a little bit of a bend in the sides. That's just another little option you can do. Sometimes it's just a little extra liner but I do like to put a little V in that dip to make it look nice and crisp. Then another version here. You can see I'm not doing straight lines and this actually creates even more of a delicate look, because it looks a little more fragile, but also a little more natural because it is a little more textured. I'm going to add that same little dip on this petal here and then I'll do another one right here. You can see that there's a little bend in the petals here, and then I'll grab some on the outside here. If you don't like the way that the outside shape is, you can always bring that out and it gives the same effect as doing it. To the inside, I'll add my lines from the center. That's just another version of that same real simple flower. I personally really like the look of this last one just because it does look a lot more natural. But all of these three are just a nice simple doodle flower. You can actually have them overlapping to if you want, which is something that I do quite often, especially when I have them at the border or right around the sides of a project that I'm doing. For this next flower, it's going to just be a real simple circle in the middle, and then like the leaves that we did, it's just going to be a teardrop off the middle. Then just keep creating those shapes all the way around. Once you finish, we're just going to keep adding in between each petal the same thing, and these can just keep growing and growing depending on how big you want them to look. Just add petals in between petals. This is a real simple one. But it can look really pretty almost like a Dahlia, the bigger that it gets. It's just really a judgment call whether you decide to finish. I like mine to look pretty balanced. Once I feel like it looks balanced, then I'll stop. I'm just going to add a few more in here. That's looking pretty good. Just a couple more and I am happy with that. You can also fill in the middle. Give it a little bit more of a structure. That is more simple flower. You can start adding lines in the middle of the petals. You can do some sporadic. That's what I'll do. You can do it through all of them. Just another option to add a little more depth to it. Then we're going to do one really similar to the one that we just created. The only difference is instead of having a petal that curves out, we're going to have one that dips in just a bit. Do your normal circle. The petals are going to look like this. They are going to come out and then they're going to dip in towards the top of the petal. We're just going to do that the entire way around, the same way that we did the first one, only it's just a different type of petal. It's a softer looking flower when they are little curvier here. Same thing, just place these petals in between the other ones that you just drew and make it as wide as you would like, as big as you would like, and just keep growing it until you find a good balance that you think is going to work for your composition. Add a few more. That's looking pretty full. For the next flower, I'm going to show you it's going to be a rose, but it's just a really quick, easy rose It's not going to be perfected. So the way that this will work is you just will draw a line in the middle and then on the other end, and I have overlapping. But what you'll do is watch these petals and have them on the opposite sides. Then just start overlapping, really close together, and make some curves in there. But really, you just keep drawing around it, and then have them connect sporadically. The closer together you make it, the more it'll look like a blossoming rose, and so that's it. That's just a really quick rose doodle. Then putting those together with the other flowers in a piece that has multiple flowers can look really pretty to compliment it. Then you can also do this with the brush tip of your pens, and it'll thicken it, make it look a little looser, a little less line drawing, and then a little more artistic. That's another option, but it's just a really quick curvy line just swirling around, and then make sure that they're connecting on the other side from where the petals that you just did were or just even overlapping. A couple other small flowers that you can do just to edge the other flowers you've done is just a little circle. Put a little dot in the middle, and then just draw a couple lines, coming from the inside towards the outside, and that is it. Really simple. You can also have another one overlapping and you can do curvier edges where they are a little more imperfect, not quite a complete circle. So those are some other little options. What this flower would look like from the side is just a half-moon, and then a wavy line down, and then just have some lines coming and curving out from the base. You can do the same type of flower, but have it be some long petals coming from the center rather than petal that you would fill towards the end. That's all that that would look like, and those look really pretty coming out of a bouquet a little taller than the rest. Now, what I'm going to do is show you this collection of flowers that we just did and what that would look like if you were to piece them all together. We'll start with this first one. I'm going to use some imperfect lines here at the little bend on the petal, and then make sure to do my little swirly center, lines from the middle. These are just real thin lines that I'm putting in just to add some texture. Little bend in my petal there. On this line, I'm also going to add some lines coming from the outside of the petals, so that's what that looks like. Again, just some more texture, and then I'll add another flower. I'm just going to do a quick stem. Then this one we just did, where it's a little bit wild, some long petals, and that's it there. Really simple, you guys. It's just a basic doodle here. I'm going to do one of those quick line roses. Notice that it's just overlapping. We're going to do one of these circular flowers I was showing you earlier. Have the other flower overlapping it just a bit. Just a circle, dot in the middle, and then some lines toward the outer edges. We'll have the sighed of it coming out here, half-moon, little squiggle at the top, and then bend those lines from the center out. This is starting to look like a little piece, where it is pretty okay. We're going to do this guy now. You want to pay attention to what size you're going to want it. I'm going to actually have it sitting quite a bit under this other flower. You can gauge where you want these petals two lie and how big you want the flower to be. If you have it quite a bit larger, you'll want to make sure to bring those petals underneath as well. I'll just write underneath here, a little peekaboo. I always feel is missing is the green. I always want to add leaves to my flowers, so I'm just going to bring the ones up that we learned to draw before without the stem, and I'll just have these poking through from down here. If anything's overlapping, I known where that goes so that I can make sure that it meets on the other side. Then I am going to add a little branch leaf cluster here that we did earlier in one of our laurels, and so that's just really quick little loops from the center that are pretty close together. Then I'll do all the way down. I'll do another one coming through here. The placement of these don't have to have a lot of structure. I just look at the whole picture and seen where I think that there's an empty space. Here, I'm going to do the flower that's similar to that dahlia-looking flower. This one also can replicate that, but it just curves toward the tip rather than having a straight line. Then I have it come underneath this leaf here to extend and create the illusion about full size. I would say this is looking pretty good. I do want to add a couple more leaves, especially underneath. I'm going to add a different green, just some basic leaves with their veins coming through this time, and I like to alternate with my leaves and the flowers for texture. Some I'll leave blank on the inside and some I will add these little veins. You're set, and you have your little flower cluster that can be on the edge or the corner of any piece that you decide to add them to. 7. Line Drawing: Banners: By now you have probably seen this adorable banners that people write hand lettering inside of a labels or addresses. We're going to go over some very basic ones. The first, we're going to do, is just two straight lines, and then two more on the side to connect it to make a very slim rectangle type box. Then on each side just slightly inside, the behind we're going do two extra lines, and then a V to create the edge of the banner same on the other side, just slightly under the top line and then slightly above the bottom line. That's a real simple banner. The next one, we're going to do another slim rectangle box. When we place the line from the side underneath the top, bring it down. But then we're going to actually go completely underneath the other line on the bottom. Do your V, and then make a little connection here, to show that it's placed in the back and we do the same thing to the other side, connected from back. Then what makes it look like a banner is connecting this diagonal line, and that's what makes the banner look like it's folded behind. Real quick option is similar to the first one we did. You don't have to do any fold whatsoever, it's just straight across, and then same V is on the side. You can also make a vertical banner that's hanging from the top by doing thick rectangle with a V at the bottom, and then a little pole coming from underneath. Notice I curved it just slightly so that I can add a little circle behind the pole. It's just a little wave and then comes down to make it look like it's loot. You can do a very simple flat one like we did just before that, and make it arched instead. Just to arch and then an arch underneath, and your V is at the end, just like this curve. That's another real simple line. Going into this next one is actually my favorite banner that I do most of the time. It's a wavy line on the bottom and top, and then connect those two pieces, and then in the dips, you're just going to do a straight line on the bottom and the top, and then match that line that curves out, right underneath the middle here, try to keep the size about the same width as the middle, and then you're going to just do your V, and then same thing on the other side, match that wavy line, makes sure that the width is about the same as the middle to your V, and then you're going to create the fold. Again, that's from this corner, and then same thing over here, and that's your banner. You can also create this banner as a double. To do that, you're going to draw the same banner except that on the right side. When you do the wavy line that comes behind it, it's not going to have the V and it's just going to keep going. With that, what looked like, I'll do this Andrew effects we'll have line come down from the depth, have your V and then create same width as the middle to your little fold. You're going to do you're line and the dip on the top, but then do a full banners length behind it, and then bring this down, so it's basically a banner behind another banner. You still going to do your fold here. That's diagonal and now you're going to create your V at the end. Line in the dip, create the same width as the middle behind do your V, and then connect the two to create a fold. That's a double banner or what you might call a ribbon, or something that's a little more flowy. This one's going to be the same wavy line, but the connection is going to invert. Then the tails are going to be very pointy. You're going to bring a line and just above the top, and then have it come down off of that. You'll do a little curved line, and then connected at the bottom. Same thing under here, just a little line from the bottom, close and then you'll bring it into that sharp edge, and then the opposite direction to your curved line out. That completes this one. Next I'm going to show you a little more of what a scroll would look like. We're going to do a little curve from the center, so little circle that comes out. Then we're going to bring this curved out, and then across and add a little more circle to the inside here. Just a detail. Then we're going to bring that curve actually above this. I'm going to add a little underneath here to come across and then that curve, and then it's actually going to meet at the edge here, and then connect it. Then from here, we are going to add a little more circle there, we're going to create the other side, and so that's going to spin down here into a spiral. Then will come down adding the side, then we are just going to do that matching wavy line on the top as the bottom. Make sure the width is about right and bring that in. Then you have more scroll banner. You can leave it like this, or you can add some lines just to the side to create some texture to make it look a little older, or a little more weathered. Then do some nice at the edges. Then just at the bottom, a couple throughout here, and then at the top, just at the edges of the scroll. That will look like. Then if you want to make a banner that looks really old, the one that I told you is my favorite. I'm going to incorporate that here. I'm going to do the same line work except that I'm going to add some rips and tears to the sides. The line work stays the same, and all of these tears will actually be lines that come up into it if it's from the bottom, and then down into it it's from the top. Then same thing here. I'm going to make this too crazy because it's still the middle, because we still have to do the edges that are folded in. I'm just going to make this a little more frazzled at the ends. Then we can dip in our tail two without weathered appearance, and do the other side. Remember to keep your width about the same as the middle, and then just have shattered edge. Then connect your diagonal lines here to create the fold. That's a real weathered one looks like. Now I'm going to show you one that's arched and still folds behind, but in a more ribbon type of way instead of it being so flat. You're going to do your arches and connect the sides. Then you're going to bring the ends toward the back by doing a line that comes from the top corner, curving out towards and then end to the middle, and then out again. Same thing here. Then the ends on this banner are not going to be V, they're just going to be straight across, and then they're going to come back in just directly to match right here. Then to connect the fold here to really make it look folded back, we're just going to do this small line from the top to the main area. I'm going to show you the same type, two arches here, except this one's going to be a bit more layered. Same arch connect on the sides, and then we're going to have this come down, so you're going to make a square behind here. Just remember that the bend comes from the dip right here, and then make sure that the width is the same as your base. That's about it. There you have three layers and then connect out diagonal pans. That's what that looks like. You can also add shading where the fold would be. Make sure to do it on the underneath pieces real quick. The main banner that I would do, what that would look like here. It was really quick. It's not going to be perfect. But shading in here would look something like this. If that's an option that you can do as well, and that's all I have for banners. Have some fun with those. 8. Line Drawing: Buntings: In this segment we're going to do some banners and paintings. It's going to be pretty quick. We're going to use these Tombow art pens for it. We're just going to start with a basic string, arched line and then just do some triangles coming off of it. Little space in between them, and you can add little ties to the side, just some little bows. That's one of them. You can put letters inside of those. Another type of banner is the same string. Instead of triangles, we will do some squares that have the V at the bottom, similar to the banners we created. Those will just hang down, put in some basic longer square type with the inverted V here or upside down B. Another type is a little more bubbly. Just curve out and then to a point at the end. Like the last one, your string can have a little more bounce to it. It's as if it's being hung by a multiple areas on the string, and then just some smaller triangles. This is more for design rather than filling in with lettering, but you could put letters in here if you wanted to. One of my favorite ways to do just a basic design without lettering, is to overlay the string. In the corner, just kind of have them slightly overlap here. Then you can bring this one up through the bottom and it just kind of barely overlaps at the end. Then you would add whichever type of banner design that you'd like. I am just doing these basic triangles and I'm using a different color and I'm actually going to incorporate a different color on each strand. As I go along, I'm going to be sure not to overlap the colors so that they do look like they are hanging from behind the others. In another line, you can do a double string where one is right on top of the other. Again, just add any type of banner hanging that you'd like. Instead of doing the boxy squares with the inverted B, I'm going to have it come to a point toward the bottom. That's another style that you can use. That looks like this, add a little tie to connect the strings. Moving on to another one, we're going to do multiple hanging points again. A point here, a point here, here. Then we're going to do kind of a couple little bubbles. Same style is what we did for the string which is have it be in tiny areas that hang down. Again, this is more design-based, so it's just an idea. You can also put little designs or line work or any sort of polka dots or something like that in the inside of each one of these couple of dots or swirls. Lastly, I'm going to do something that may look like some close pens or some sort of object that's holding up paper tags. Put a few of those on the line. Then from there I'm going to draw a curved square or rectangle coming down from that. These are some the hot letters and you can also make these quite a bit larger. That is another option. Play with those as well you guys, and that is what I have for you for punching Illustration. 9. Embossing: In this segment, I want to go over some embossing. This is the VersaMarker. I like it because it has brush pen on one tip. That's pretty fun for doing just regular brush pen hand lettering, and the other side we have a fine hard tip, which is what I'll be using for this project. This is the embossing powder that I'll be using. It's a golden embossing powder. I'm not sure what [inaudible] this is, but this guy is the recollections in party pink and they're just normal, fine embossing powders. To get started, I'm to just draw out the word happy and just take it up, come down. Really pay close attention to my shape, make sure that everything is consistent, and especially the core of the letters. I've been having trouble with the VersaMarker, although I love it, it's been drying out on me quite a bit. What I've noticed is I've had to go over things, pretty heavily to keep it nice and saturated. Until I find something that I like better, this is what I'll be using. But I've been cutting down the embossing powder each letter rather than drawing out the entire thing first. That might be helpful if you write a little slower or if it's drying quickly. We'll go in here, saturate each letter and then place the embossing powder. This is my dog. She's a pug. She's old. Her name's Lucy. You might notice too, as I'm saturating each letter, I'm also adding the weight to my downstrokes of each letter, which will have the same effect as a brush pen, but gives me a little more control, so it's that faux calligraphy that you may have learned in my previous course. If you would prefer to emboss with a little more structure and it's easier for you to add the weight after you've written it, that's something you can do as a little trick. I'm just going to make sure these are nice and wet so that this powder will stick. Tap on here. Then if you have any powder that overlays and you don't want to get the pen powdery, you can brushed away with just a normal paintbrush that's dry. Sometimes I use my finger, but if there is a lot, then hopefully use one of those paint brushes. Nice and saturated. Then this last bit down here. Then when I'm all finished, I like to make sure to shake the powder around on the paper just a little bit to make sure that it's nice and cover and there's no areas that I missed. Then you can reuse this powder, so make sure to save it, catch it on another piece of paper, and then funnel it back into your container, and that way, you're preventing a lot of waste. Then if you have extra powder on the paper, make sure to brush that away because even if it's not wet, where it is, when you do take a heat tool to it, oftentimes it will still stick. If you ever notice any gaps like this guy right here, then I will go over it one more time and lay some extra powder so that there's not a skip in the final product. Then same thing, just catch that. Then what I'm going to is, set this up first with the heat tool and then from there afterwards I'm going to lay some other lettering with a different color. What you should know about the heat tool, they get really hot if you haven't used one already. This ones by Nicole, I just got off Amazon for under $20 and they do get up to over 600 degrees, so don't get your finger caught and because you will not be happy. Then just take it at an angle, it takes some minute to heat up, but you'll notice right away when it does, the powder will start to get a little raised. Just keep going over it until you find that the entire area of all the powder is raised. This one doesn't have the sparkle to it like a lot of embossing powders have. It might be a little more difficult to see, but you can probably see it getting a little darker here. What I'll do now is the other part with the same tip where it's hard, I'm going to write the word be just in normal capital letters. Then I'm going to put this in bracket. Now, I'm going to lay my gold powder down. I don't have to worry about it getting on any of the other word because that's already been heat dried. I'm going to add a couple little burst embellishments just some lines down here to balance out the gold. Lay this down here. After laying that down, I want to make sure that I shake it a little bit to make sure everything's covered, and then make sure to save your powder. Just grab any piece of paper you have. Let's spare and shake that off onto that, and then you can pour that back into your container. Brush away any loose powder, and then we'll heat set that. You'll definitely notice when the shinier or more sparkly embossing powder start to raise because they instantly get really shiny. Just like that, you have a finished piece. 10. Embossing: Fine Lettering: I want to show you a different pen that I like to use for embossing. This is the Quickie Glue pen point roller. It's actually a pinpoint glue stick type of deal on a roller ball. This is great for embossing. It's a nice, fine tip. You can do very skinny letters, but then also have those nice wispy lines, they don't get lost in the brush pens. I'm just going to bring these out, and then I'm going to do some faux calligraphy, since this is not a brush pen, and get that weighed in there. Because this pen is glue, you won't have to worry about it drying out like you would the clear ink of the VersaMarker. A little tip about this pen is that when it is still a little creamy and blue, it will bond permanently to paper and what not, and then once it turns clear, you can use it as a temporary hold for other things. It won't matter for embossing, because embossing powder will stick to the glue at any stage that it's in. I have this video sped up a bit. I just wanted to give you an idea of how this pen works. So when you're embossing, again, just make sure that you lay the powder while the ink is still wet, in this case the glue, and that is completely saturated. If you have any areas of the powder having come off, you can shake it off or flip the paper lightly. You can also use a paint brush that's dry just to brush off that extra powder. Catch it with another piece of paper to make sure you preserve it, so you can use it in the future and prevent the waste. There I am going to emboss. You're all set with your final piece of embossed fine lettering. 11. Lettering with Shapes: I'm going to show you how to use some hidden shapes behind another piece of paper. Just for an example on this one, I'm going to write my name and I'm going to show you how you want to reach to every edge of the circle. From my P, it's going to actually follow the top there. Notice that the bottom of each letter that I'm going to do is going to be right in the same spot. But the top is going to reach up and touch each part of the circle. Then same thing, the top of my last name is going to remain in a straight line right underneath my first name, but the bottom is going to follow this circle. I can tell I'm going to have a little room left over here. I'm just going to throw a little heart right of decide just to preserve that shape. I'm going to show you a triangle. I'm just going to write, I love you. Because it is cut off, I don't want to forget to bring this all the way down to the middle. It's going to be a little bit longer than the I. I can reach the middle because I am again keeping that shape. My E is going to shoot right up the side like that. I'm going to bring my Y down. Then again, it's just going to be cut off there, but my O is going to go the whole way down. The center is still where my words will meet, and it is that nice crisp line, even when it is cut off by the side at the top. That is what it looks like in a triangle, almost looks like a heart even, which is perfect because that is what we are moving into. I'm going to move into some cursive lettering. Again, I'm going to make sure that all of my edges keep that shape nice and crisp. I'm going to bring my O all the way up. Then my U make sure to reach all the way to the top. I'm going to do the word MY just inside of straight thin lines. Now it's always my favorite, which is perfect sub forward I'm hiding. But to follow a line that's ever-changing, especially when you have that middle there and you don't have to keep it straight in the middle. Because I think it looks so fine. That is what the end results can be like so and that heart shape. 12. Conclusion: Thank you so much you guys. That's all I have for you this time. Keep in mind to really play with your ligatures. Make sure to really still work on your composition, the structuring of your letters, any flourishes, just play with those. There's so many different options that you can do. Just pick one word and try writing it several different times. I'd love to see what that looks like. Try using your name and then incorporate those leaves and flowers that we did, some banners. I know that you guys can come up with a lot of different things. There's kind of a jumble of different sorts of additions that you can use. I can't wait to see what the end result is and I look forward to seeing you guys next time. Please feel free to use the class discussion area to ask any questions or chat with your peers. I'd love to hear your guys thoughts. Thank you again and I'll see you soon.