Garnet Starburst Earrings - a simple stone setting project | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

Garnet Starburst Earrings - a simple stone setting project

Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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15 Lessons (52m)
    • 1. Garnet Starburst Earrings - a simple stone setting project

      1:01
    • 2. Garnet Starburst Earrings - equipment

      1:25
    • 3. Garnet Starburst Earrings - soldering equipment

      3:38
    • 4. Garnet Starburst Earrings - materials

      1:16
    • 5. Garnet Starburst Earrings - cutting discs

      1:34
    • 6. Garnet Starburst Earrings - texturing discs

      4:03
    • 7. Garnet Starburst Earrings - preparing the stonesettings 1

      3:25
    • 8. Garnet Starburst Earrings - preparing the stonesettings 2

      3:05
    • 9. Garnet Starburst Earrings - soldering

      6:28
    • 10. Garnet Starburst Earrings - drilling

      3:10
    • 11. Garnet Starburst Earrings - making the earwires

      6:40
    • 12. Garnet Starburst Earrings - setting the stones 1

      8:11
    • 13. Garnet Starburst Earrings - setting the stones 2

      3:51
    • 14. Garnet Starburst Earrings - finishing the earrings

      3:32
    • 15. Garnet Starburst Earrings - final thoughts

      1:08

About This Class

Welcome to the Garnet Starburst Earrings class! This class is the ideal introduction to stone setting. Although the beautiful garnet cabochons in the middle of the earrings are small, this is off-set by using ready-made bezel cups to hold them in place. I will teach you how to refine the bezel cups to fit your stones perfectly, taking you through everything step-by-step. You will also practice your soldering skills - always important!

The project uses very little silver. I have used two 5mm garnet cabochons (flat backed stones), but any round cabochons from 4mm to 6mm would work just as well.

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This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me.

In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is for jewellery makers of all levels of experience from complete beginners upwards.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers all of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.

Earrings #6 in the #52earrings challenge

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Transcripts

1. Garnet Starburst Earrings - a simple stone setting project: my name's John. I'm a jewelry designer and teacher for me. Okay, welcome my studio. Welcome to the Starburst Deering's class, the project that France is a beautiful, long, elegant pair of earrings with rich red garnets at the center of them. They're probably the fanciest hearings in the series so far, but the class is a great introduction to stone setting as we're going to use pre made basil cups to hold the stones on. The rest of design built on techniques are really introduced in other classes. This class is part of the 52 earrings challenges I set myself to create film 52 different earrings throughout 2017. Look out the hashtag 52 hearings on Instagram and Facebook. Would you like to find war and also like to see behind the scenes photos and video clips? So if you're ready, that first started by having a look at the equipment and materials that you're going to need to make the earrings 2. Garnet Starburst Earrings - equipment: hung talks that you're going to need to make the earrings going to start off by using Discuss it because it just asked the silver. I'm going to hit the discuss of punches with the old hammer and then I'm going to use my Swiss style or cross being hammer to give them a lovely texture of lines radiating out from middle. I'm going to support the silver disks on the bench block and the leather cushion as I hammer them. I'll be using both of the files to prepare the stone settings. Also going to use a small needle file to finish off the ear wise at the end of the project , I have a better push up on a Bernie shirt that I'm going to use to set of stones that I'll tell you more about those age. Well, why cutters? The flat nose pliers on the round nose pliers are for use on the ear wise. I'll be shaping the ear wives around the sexual Mandel, although, as I said before, you don't have to use one of these. The power of the sharp he would do just as well on the flashing hammer I'll be using two gives the wise little bit of a hammer to strengthen their shape. You also going to need a drill on Do not 20.9 millimeter Drillbit. It doesn't matter where they use a hand drill or electric drill, but I love mindful bench stool swell going to be using that one. 3. Garnet Starburst Earrings - soldering equipment : I think this is the soldier equipment that I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans. Since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans it a couple oxides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least are her safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 4. Garnet Starburst Earrings - materials: way materials for the earrings. I'm going to be cutting the discs out of some no 0.5 millimeter sterling silver sheet on, and I'm going to use no 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge sterling silver wire for the ear wires. What two short pieces of chain that are left over from other projects. I had shorting a couple of chains. I saved these pieces because I knew they'd come in handy. Something. They're about six centimeters long each. I got four graceful jump friends to attach the chains toothy earrings on, and they are made of no 40.8 millimeter wire, so they're fit nicely through the North. Point. Nine millimeter holes is I'm going to Jill in the hearings, and it was an inside diameter off 2.5 millimeters. The focal point of the project. 25 millimeter diameter rose Cut garlic cabbage johns cabbage. One is a flat back stone on droz. Cut means it's beautifully fasted on the top, so it's really going to catch the light and sparkle. I'm going to set those inside to pre made five millimeter petal cups 5. Garnet Starburst Earrings - cutting discs: Theo first step are making the earrings is to cut two disks using discussed er I'm going to be using the 15.9 millimeter diameter punch that I've got here. So I need to We go the two pieces apart, Andi, and to put the sheet in there so that the edges are just out of sight. I gotta a nice good quality discussed. So it means that I can cut very close to the edge. The punch goes back in on top on the old hammer. Just hit it. Well, nice disk. All the way through on the other side, it is saying to get another one, you can see how close like a cut to the edge with this, huh? Paint simples that to life's disks, ready for the next stage. 6. Garnet Starburst Earrings - texturing discs: e put a small dot in the middle of both of disks using the Sharpie so that I've got something to aim for because I want to use the Swiss stung or the cross peen hammer toe hammer lines that radiate out the middle move, one of just stashed away otherwise bounce its way across the bench block. Because I start hammering this one Asai hammer, you'll notice that I keep the hammer almost in the same place. In turn the disc ground. I find that some is easiest way for me to do it and gets the most consistent texture. - Might see that this witch of a a wiggle in the disc there. It's probably normal. It's because across peen Hammer, as I said in some of the other video crosses, it causes the silver to stretch out at right angles to the head of the hammer. So as I go around the disk, I'm actually stretching it out slightly, but it will fashion back down again. Okay, was one done so said still cost a little bit of Waco. You could actually leave it like that if you want to, but I'm going to use it's my fingers so there it needs just help. Flatten it back down again. Do the other one too much, - you know, quite happy that textract We started a little bit there, then quite ET just to go back and top it up. Don't feel that you have to do it all at once. You can go back and also don't worry about and young tidiness in the middle, where you might have missed the middle out to whether the lines cross over each other but untied early because that's where the stone settings going to go so that bit there's going to be hidden. So what the discs prepared the next stage is to prepare the sun settings. 7. Garnet Starburst Earrings - preparing the stonesettings 1: way Garlits in the buzzword cups to check the fit. And at the moment, the walls of the metal cups are a little bit too high. If I use them as they artists at the stones, the stones will be setting very securely. But too much of the stone will be hidden by the silver, and that will be a shame. You only need to see just a little bit of silver above where the stones starts to curve away from the inside the wall just a little bit is needed to be able to hold this civilian place, especially a small stone like this. Remember, they're only five millimeters in diameter. So what I'm going to do is file the tops, just removal with silver and lower the walls, a 70 foot ways that you could remove some of silver from the top of the puzzle. Some people like to use emery paper because it is quite thin, fine silver, so it doesn't need something very right course. I prefer to use a six inch flat fire, which may look like a little bit of overkill, but I find that if I use a small file, I'm more likely to slip off the Basil Cup with a small file, but it's the way that I found that's best for me. You can use a needle file if you prefer. Try a few different ways on DSI, which works best for you. But how I prefer to set up is, As you can see, the six inch file is flat on the work desk on the handle. It's hanging off the side. So instead of sitting up into angle like that, it's your city. Nice and flat. It's going to zoom in habits. You can see the next bit. What I'm going to do is just put my finger on top of the basil cup. I just threw it back. Chris. Oops. Harsher noise you can hear is where it's being filed. I know, I said before that files, Are you working one directions. They work like so, but by pulling the Basil Cup back instead of moving a file, everything still moving at the right in the right direction in relation to each other, something else from during its every now and again, just turning every top of times of putting it down the file. We're just turning the battle cup around a little bit. That helps to make sure that I'm frying nice and evenly. So going to put these back on here so that you can see the difference that I've made something, Put it back in its special cup. This one. I haven't filed a tour yet, so I'm just going to show you another close up to see the effect that we've had so far. Just that little bit of firing has had the impact I needed is they removed about half a millimeter from the top of the wall of the Better Cup. But as all that was needed on now is that one is the right height for this stone. So this link to do the 2nd 1 the one the right that hasn't been filed a tour yet. And then there's one more thing that we need to do to prepare the vessels before we have sold them onto those 100 discs 8. Garnet Starburst Earrings - preparing the stonesettings 2: so setting to be filed, said of the right height for stones. But what I want to do now is just remove a little bit of silver from the outside of the top of the walls so that there isn't as much silver to push over. I'm gonna be pretty a slight bevel at the top, firing it and angle. Just remove a little bit of the silver, but I'm going to use the needle far to do that, going to be holding needle file at about 45 degrees, the top off the better wall and just firing a little bit all around explaining exactly what I'm going to do now because it's so small, it's actually going to be quite difficult to see. So I'm going to do is just filed one of the settings and then show you another close up. You can see the difference. Some party. The needle files about 45 degree angle. This side here is the top Andi, just going to far a little bit all the way around just to remove a little bit of the silver . Hey, that's what it takes. So I will now show you the filed There's a cup on. The one still needs a bit more filing so you can see the contrast. It is easiest to see the effect off, pushing up level at the top of the stone city of removing some of silver from the top of the stone setting if you look directly on top of it. So stone sitting on the left closest to the file has been completely prepared. The stone setting on the right still needs a little bit of material filed away from the top . That just makes it easier to rub the silver over the stone as we're setting a stone to get a really nice smooth finish. Now you can use the stone settings exactly as they come from the supplier. You don't absolutely have to do this. Filings prepare them, but you will get a much, much better finish if you take the times, do a little bit firing on. Make sure that's the vessel. Cups fits your stones perfectly because although I'm using two stones that are both sold as five millimeter stones, that is going to be some natural variation between a one of the five millimeter stones that come in the same packet. So you want to try and get your battle cup to fit that particular stone to get the best possible finish on your jewelry. It's worth taking the time to do it. 9. Garnet Starburst Earrings - soldering: way. It's time to soldiers stone settings in the middle of the discs on I've put the best cups upside down on the soldier in block. I'm going to melt a little piece of easy solder or couple pieces of easy soldier. Actually admire quite small onto the back of the result cups and then turn them over. Put them in place on the disks and remote solder to solve everything together. I need a little bit of flux first on the back of each disc. So in the back of each special cup, brother on and I'm using Easy Soldier because I've only got one soldier. Join on each sharing and he's so depict just to help scrape off a couple of pieces off Easy soldier. I want it back of each little cup one piece there. Sometimes the most difficult thing is actually getting soldier out of the top was the pieces and so small. All right, so soldiers in price, I'm going to heat up very slowly around each special cup, in turn just to get the flux to dry off. If I let it drive too quickly, it will bubble up on those Italians that little pieces of soldiers are more like this. Jump off. So I'm going to take it quite slowly. You may have noticed that one piece soldiers did move on this piece. It jumped, but is actually stayed on the back of the vessel cup I can carry on. I'm just going to go around this one here and get the soldier to melt into little puddles on the back with this back of basil cup, brother. Okay, the same for this one. As soon as the soldiers mounted and flowing out a little bit, I want to stop. I don't want to keep going on so long that either order solder goes into the silver or until I've melted the metal cup. I definitely don't want to do that. Was putting the disks in place. Take a few minutes just to make sure that it's all centred. Make sure it's in the right place. It's worth taking the time to do this and also checking it from different angles to make sure that it is centered. The pattern with the lines radiating out to the middle actually helps with this bit. Okay, I'm happy with that. So I'm going to heat up around just this one first and get the soldiers to Meltem float and then go into the 2nd 1 I don't need to apply anymore flux, because the flux is I put on initially. Hasn't being washed off, hasn't been cleaned off in any pickle. It's still there to do the job. I'm putting most of the heat into the dish because that's the largest piece of silver and then brushing over the whole thing to get a rash enough. What I'm hoping to see is a line of soldier appearing around the bottom of the cup. I saw a knife sneaking, sitting down, nice, bright line of soldier appearing all the way around that little cup. That's a nice, strong join their lead to the same to number two My God, that's the 2nd 1 They need to go into the quench particle down on the pickle pot to clean up before I can do the next job. 10. Garnet Starburst Earrings - drilling: way fresh pickles given them a rinse under dry on ive, also marked on with a Sharpie lying on each hearing that shows which way up I wanted to go because I'm not a machine. The stone fittings aren't perfectly 100% in the center. And so that means that they do look best one particular way up so that it doesn't look as if the stone setting is site to the left or citing to the right eso I've march which way I want them to go. Onda On the hearing on the left. I've also put two dots one each, hold someone to drill Nazi earrings are now sitting on the bench shell. I'm going to draw those 1st 2 holes. Lovey, I went is exactly where I wanted them to go. No, the second daring. Obviously, it's some I haven't got any hole was Mark which on there. So I haven't got any dots marked on there, and I want to get thes two earrings is perfectly much as possible. So what I'm going to do is line them up and just make sure that the lines either side are much up that we could and then I'm going to use a Sharpie that's fine enough to go through the holes to mark. Well, I'm hearing. So what? Grow what? The holes to go on, the earrings that might marks on and my pen marks on there. My sort of dots wouldn't wear my nice find Sharpie that fit through the hole, Um, to help support the hearing as much as possible and putting it upside down on the piece of wood because, like my old soldering rocks, this is old and it's got little dimples that the stone setting come sit inside. So my hearing six possible protected and supported and you can't to nicely chilled earrings, really, for the next step. 11. Garnet Starburst Earrings - making the earwires: I've cut to 4.5 centimeter links of no 0.8 millimeter wide for the ear wise on the first job is to turn a small loop in one end of each piece of wine. I'm going to use a round nose pliers to do that, but quite a small loop. So I'm holding a while. Quite post the tips of players. Oops, twist supplies round my school lip and then have you seen from but years before? Just pull it back so that it's sitting. The loop is sitting on top. Peter Weir Lardon One site, which is same with the other one. Small leap. Put it back. So she's sitting on top. I'm going to use the step Mandrell to turn, but you shape that such going to form the recognizable shape of the ear wire. I don't want these here Waas be too long. So I'm just going to holds the wife right next toothy to the loop. Did you spend the wire around? Okay, at the moment that I looped down there, that small Lupus I formed is facing the wrong direction, but it's only wire, so I can just twist it back, and I want you to stay. And she was same to the other one. It's worse. Just double checking before I complete depending of the ear y for the 2nd 1 Just double checking that they match up when they do. I'm happy with that. Good for started to hear Waas My next job just going to hammer the front of the ear. Waas here. If at the last three things that fresh off the wire, firing the end, flicking the end out in hammering they cannot she done in, whichever Would you like this time? I'm going to have a first. So I'm just holding the ear wire on the bench block so that that curve isn't the I felt there just It is a sort of flatter area in front of the curve which strengthens the shape to the same to the other one. Okay, Okay. Next job. So I'm going to use flat nose pliers. I'm going to use chip clients. Just using the the wits was applies there. And I'm just going to that puts a little bit by using every single pair of Iwas, my mate, by using that wits of supplies each time, it makes sure that they match the same to the other one. Same wits of the air y same which applies rather this Twist it back. But what more professional will finish now And the last thing the year wise is to file the end to the wire Safe It nice Ethio is I was always use your fingers as well as your eyes Just make short. It feels nice and smooth. You don't know any sharp edges on there. This is going to scratch. Okay, So I know what to Iwas. I've got to earrings with the stone settings soldiered on Andi to host drilled in each. I've got four little jump rings on to about six centimeter links off chain So what were the components? Since I need to make the earrings, What I'm going to do now is give them a darker and cheap to oxidize patina because I think that really a rather the rich red of the Garnett to pop out and really be a feature of the earrings. As I've already got a video on how to do that on teach patina, I'm going to direct your over there, rather film it all again. So the next thing you're going to see in this video class is the earrings all nicely colored and ready for the stones to be set. 12. Garnet Starburst Earrings - setting the stones 1: way different components of silver that's going to make ups. The earrings have now been given a darker and teach patina as I brushed off slightly. As you can see, readers highlight both the texture of the silver on the dark, rich color of the garden. It's beautifully. I popped the Garlits inside the settings, but they're definitely not going to stand plate at the moment. What I need to do to keep you in place is to push the silver of the battle cup up against unknown slightly over the garnets. Okay, to move one of match the wife moment. I'm working on another cushion so that it protects the back of the hearing as I move it about. If I had it on the hardest surface, it might pick up some scratches As I moved it around, we're going to use a pencil pusher, which is essentially a road. A steal, I swear, Border still being pushed into a handle. What I've had to do to the end of this. When I got bought, it was using old file just to round off the edges a little bit to make sure that they weren't sharp, because if they're sharp and harsh. Then they could mark. The silver is quite normal to have to finish off a tour like this to your liking, to make the ends of it smoother. As the name suggests, I'm going to use the petal pusher, too. Push the silver up and then rockets so lightly over the gone it now. Hopefully, you can see on this site. The silver is flatter. It's no longer rounded out. So that's where I've pushed with the petal pusher pushed against you, pushed the vessel up there goes the garnet, and then I walked up slightly to start pushing it over stone. It's important to work your way back and forth across the stone, so on one site, and to do the other. Don't scrape the basil pusher across the silver. You could put marks in English in the habit of placing it where you want it to be and then push up. But over. You can now see two sides done, so it's normal to go north, south, east, west and then feeling the points in between always crisscrossing back across the stone. If you start in one place and then continue from that point, all the way around the stone. We're going to find out that my shiny get here you're going to get a bunch stop section of silver is not basically setting. So going to get catching up over again over there looks a bit more of a square setting now and then. And to do the points in between same movement each time pushing in the lineup at the bottom . The reason why I'm pushing the right at the bottom and then rocking walking up rather than just working on the top is you need to make sure that all of the wall is push nice and tight up against the garnet, and I'm just going to make sure I'm working my way back and forth across the stone. It's pretty obviously areas that need working on because they're the areas that don't look like smooth around it. Against the state, you can see setting a starting to look a bit more rounded. Keep working on that until everything's nice and smooth. Now the movement I'm using is nice and slow and firm. That's firm because I want to make sure that the metal is moved nicely but nice and smooth and slow so that I don't risk the tour slipping across the top of the garnet and putting scratches in it. So nice and firm. That's very steady movement. I'm happy with that. So I had to do the same to the other one. You can see the difference between the two. Yeah, startle month site. Work your way back and forth across the stone. Slow, steady movements. After all your hard work. He don't want to ruin the job at this point. Does he know it's just smooth the fish one. But getting that sometimes it may feel that as you push one part in another part moves back out again. But you will get their promise that one awkward spot there special and no one there. 13. Garnet Starburst Earrings - setting the stones 2: stone slice a firm into the earrings, but I could still smooth. Ouch, that setting a little bit more. And that's where the better she comes in. You can get bushes that are straight nose bent nose. Just a matter of preference. Which one you use. I prefer the bank knows one. I find it helps me to get into walk with. There is a bit better. Andi Burnishing just means rubbing back and forth and polishing, confirming. So what I do is hold see Stone sitting like, say, just working on little area at a time, just firmly rubbing backwards and forwards on the chop with a better wall. I'm being careful not to put the tip actually onto the back of the hearing that it want to scratch that just working my way around. I've actually got my son here on top of this stone on. The Berkshire is arresting on top of my son there, and that helps to prevent the bullshit from rubbing on the stone itself. It was just rubbing on silver. What the burn she's doing is just making sure that that top of the bottle cup it's nice and firm and snuck up against the stone as helping to remove any marks left by the petal pusher . I'm happy with that. See if I can show you the difference between the two that's in my eye. That one looks a little smoother. That one does. That was not bad, but that one is how it should be that one still need to be to work doing to it. - Okay , I'm happy with those. So it's now time to put the earrings together. 14. Garnet Starburst Earrings - finishing the earrings: way assembled one of the earrings. They can see what we're aiming for. Now it's time to put the second hearing together the ear while the chain went hanging from the ear wire on to jump prints of eventually touched the chain to the stone setting itself . So first job is to use Get hold of it the flat pliers and also pair off. No, the place this case about pave around those supplies to hunt. Just twist open twists Open jump ring Andi What touch? One end with the change for that chump ring. A small chain. But this just fit through. There we go and then passed that jump ring through the hearing on and Twist. Place everything back up again. Okay, when half untouched, you share same with the other side. So twist you hear that jumping open touch the other end of the train to it. I'm here, we got. It's the other. He has a hope twisted close jumping back up again. There's one hearing now to attach the ear. Y I can't just going to use supplies just to lift up the open end off the loop at the end of the ear wire there was I'm going to do is find the midpoint off that chain attached the hearing. I could count all the different links ever wanted to, but actually usually an easy way to do it. I used to hold the gearing up, let it dangle, and then you can automatically find the midpoint. We get a man used, supply us, just twist back down again. Sure thing straight. And then we have one beautiful pair off stone set hearings. 15. Garnet Starburst Earrings - final thoughts: finished, have earrings along. Other. Contribute for pair of earrings that are going to swing gently as you wear them on the garnett in the middle of Catch the light beautifully. Think about how you can adapt the design, maybe by using a smaller dis to change the design into stud earrings a shorter length of chain. Or maybe use different her stones and combine them with different textures. You don't have to use a hammer. There are some great designs of texture punches around our dates. Do you remember to download the equipment list and have the supplies? They stood at the end of that. There are plenty supplies out there, but just chosen a few that I've used before. I recommend if you need help with anything, then remember to leave a comment and discussion section of the class. I'll get back to you as quickly as I can be. Great to see some of your finished work on the project section, Thank you for watching ever