Francis table runner | Vendulka Battais | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

7 Lessons (46m)
    • 1. Francis table runner

      0:52
    • 2. 1 Fabric choices

      3:00
    • 3. 2 Cutting

      2:16
    • 4. 3 Piecing PART 1

      7:37
    • 5. 3 Piecing PART 2

      8:58
    • 6. 4 Quilting

      10:09
    • 7. 5 Binding

      13:19
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About This Class

I will guide you through the full process of making this table runner. First, we'll talk about the fabric choices before I'll tell you how to cut them. If you've never done piecing, I'll show you my tips and tricks. We will go through layering of your runner with wadding and backing before you'll get step-by-step guidance on the binding which is the final step towards having your own new table runner. 

I look forward seeing you in the class.

Vendulka

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Vendulka Battais

Textile artist and designer

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Transcripts

1. Francis table runner: Hello, my name is Vendulka Battais and I would like to welcome you to my online classes. This time we're gonna be making a Francis table runner. So the whole class is divided into several different videos. So each step is a single, is a separate video so that you can watch the video and then go make those steps, prepare them, and then come back, watch the next step. Hopefully that will make your life easy. I'm using lots of close-up videos were needed so that I can really show you what I'm talking about and you can see and then do it. Do it for yourself. You will also receive printable written instructions just to help you along the way. Sometimes it might be easier to just look at something and you will also have there all requirements and the cutting instructions. So let's get started. 2. 1 Fabric choices : Welcome. Let's talk about fabric choices in this first session. As you can see from the many examples behind me and around me, there is countless of variations you can choose from. I like this table runner because it's really lovely way how to showcase and nice feature fabric. As you can see, this batik is, multi-colored and it's got nice busy pattern. So are the flowers in this one. And you know, these, these flowers here, I like it for the fabric which is too shame to cut into tiny, tiny squares and triangles. And you want to actually showcase the design and the colours and patterns which are on that fabric. Yeah. So I start usually with that middle central fabric. And then I choose the colours which will, which kind of are within that fabric. So as you can see, the orange, we've got plenty of orange. what are they? tulips and, so are there red tulips and then the green kind of frames it all. So I've just taken this, this fabric to get to my stash and choose the fabrics which would go with it. You want them, the matching one, the coordinating one to be rather plainish. l can have a small, small design on them. But you want them to be rather plainish because as you're going to be cutting them into narrow strips, any big pattern and big design would get lost and also would be distracting from that feature fabric. So, so I choose kind of plain age, color on color design, something that will blend in beautifully. And now you can choose, as you can see, you can have as your binding, you can have the same fabric as your, second, second border. Or you can use the same fabric and which has been used for these, outside triangles, your kind of background triangles. It's entirely up to you, I usually base it on the strength, of the colours, or just purely on how much of each fabric I have. So because here, it feels like the red is actually much stronger, much deeper color than the green. I've chosen it for the border, whereas here, if I framed it with the blue, the blue would probably completely disappear. Whereas, here the green disappears, but it blends in with these triangles. Yeah, so lots of choices to choose from the sky's the limit. 3. 2 Cutting: Let's talk about the cutting instructions. Follow the instructions underneath the video or in your booklet. If you bought a kit. And we will start by cutting six-inch squares from our main feature fabric. And also 3 and three-quarters inch squares. Four of those. As you can see, if you have more fabric and if you've got a larger table, it's very easy to make this table runner longer. All you need to do is you repeat, the two squares with its borders and one central square, which could go further. And I had a lady who wanted to make this 2 meter long. So we just carried on cutting. Obviously, we'll need more fabrics, but it's easy and it's doable and it looks really lovely as well. So, we start with our squares and then we've got two sets of, two sets of strips for your two borders. And as you can see, and there are, some strips are a little bit narrower. That's because these smaller squares, they look at the optical illusion littler bit that they are behind these. So, therefore, they are, they appear a little bit, a little bit narrower. Yeah. And so borders on these little, these little squares are narrower than they are on these, on these big ones. So that's why we've got two sets of strips. You can cut them to the correct length or you can keep them as one long strip. And then we've got the larger squares, which will later, we will turn into these triangles, which I will guide you through once we, once we get there and I'll explain, why are we doing it's the way we're doing it. And then obviously the last, last thing will be your, your binding, wadding and backing. 4. 3 Piecing PART 1: Let's get piecing. So for now, you should have all the fabrics cut out and you're going to have, or you can divide them into two piles. You will have a small, small squares with short strips from the borders. And you will have a large squares and long strips. So I'm going to put the small ones on the side. We're going to do it in the next step. And we're going to start working with these, with the middle squares and our, border strips. So as you can see, our fabric or my fabric actually has got direction. Yeah. It has got a top, bottom, left, and right. So just to make my life easier, I'm going to, I'm going to start working with a left and right side. If your fabric doesn't have any direction then you don't need to worry. It doesn't really matter. Where are you going to start putting these borders. Yeah. But if you do have a direction, try to keep them always the same way. So the first two borders, those which are six-inch-long, we're going to add to the left and to the right of my square. Now let me just show you how to, how to press this. Lots of people, when they, when they press their fabric, they work from the back. They open this open the seams and press it on the other side. But what usually, what usually happens is you can have these folds which are not very, it's not a precise pressing. And, and obviously it makes the square a bit smaller and the strip makes it narrower rather than if I pull it, that's the correct size. So I tend to press straight from the right side. So I'll put my piece, the right-side up. I actually first press the square flat, and that is very useful, maybe not now. But when you are adding lots of blocks and you had to do all, you had to do a lot of easing. It's actually really useful tip to first press all the seams flat and only then press them to one side. So then I take one of the borders lifted up and my iron just slides underneath. Yeah. I'll show you once again. I take this out and the iron slides underneath and presses it nice and flat. That means that I don't have any creases, anything and I can go straight away. It's just, you know, sometimes when you press from a back, you still have to go and press from the front anyway. So I just fold straight from the fault side. So that's the first, first strip down. The next will be to add the top and the bottom. It's the same color as the first one. So we're going to add it to the top and bottom. And next one will be again, you've got your pattern in front of you and we're adding it to the left and right side. So the next colour, the next strip. And we're going to add to the left and right. And we're going to finish it with top. And the bottom on the, on the last one. And you're gonna prepare all three, all three squares the same way. So now you've got your main three blocks ready and we can start piecing our little ones. Before we do that, let me just talk to you about the direction of the fabric. So if your central, fabric has got direction and top and bottom left and right. You want to keep in mind that the blocks are actually sitting in the table runner or a point. So they are actually pointing to that side. Yeah. We're not looking at them from the top or from one side. They kind of face a little bit on an angle. Yeah. Which is absolutely, absolutely fine. I've been trying several different ways. What if that block is facing outside and this block is facing that side? I must admit that I found that's the easiest and most eye-pleasing way is if all the squares are facing the same direction. But by all means, if you want to play with this, have fun. Try it, try different versions, but I just find this to be the easiest and nicest way. So in order to do that, and as you can see, these squares have got actually border only on two different sides. Not all like, we've got on the middle ones. And they sit right here in the corner. So that means that two of the blocks, they will have the border on the bottom because all of my panels are facing that way. So these two panels, because the other one, the other one is, is there if I put the third one here. So these two panels will have the first strip on the bottom. These two will have the first strip on the top. The second strip. These two panels have got the second strip on the right-hand side. And these two blocks have got the second strip on the left-hand side. So just keep that in mind when you are piecing it. I think that I always like to make my life easy and find the nice, easy ways. So you can take different coloured pins, four in one colour and four in another colour or, or clips. It doesn't matter. And place them on top on two blocks. And on the bottom of the other two blocks. And then the other colour, you're gonna put onto the right side on two blocks and onto the left side on the remaining blocks. And this way, if you, if you keep in mind that one colour pin means first strip and the second colour pin means the second strip. This way, you're going to ensure that you've got it all the way, the right way. So once you've pieced them, once you've pieced the blocks, the best way to check it before you start adding the second border is if you put them on opposite each other on point, seeing that old, older trees or design is facing the same direction. You want to have two borders on these corners and two borders the scholars. And the next step will be adding the second borders or this time, you don't really need to mark it with a pen or anything that you can see that if this strip has been pieced The first, that's where it's gonna go. The first strip off the second border. And then the second one will go, will go that way. And there we go. 5. 3 Piecing PART 2: So now you've got your 4 small blocks ready. We've got our large blocks ready. And we can have a look at what we're gonna do with these large squares. So what we have outside here are these triangles, the finishing of the runner so that it makes a nice straight line. So what we're gonna do with these, with these squares is you're gonna take a ruler and you are going to place it from one tip to the other tip Exactly straight. And you are gonna cut all the way to achieve to have two triangles. Then you gonna place one of them in front of you so that you got the straight line, The long bias edge in front of you. And you can place a ruler and you can place one of these lines exactly on the, on the edge of the fabric. And you want this edge to go straight through the tip of the square of the triangle. Sorry. So we've got a right angle here and the edge of the ruler goes straight through the tip. We're gonna cut that and that is the triangle you need. So I'm going to show you one more time. We've got, I'm going to line up one of these edges, make sure that there my edge goes straight to the tip. And there we go. So the reason for this is that when we now have got our blocks, they are here. We're going to attach these triangles here. And as you saw on a triangle like this, you will have a bias edge. And this edge is going to, is going to stay straight. If we took a square and just cut it in half and placed it here, then we would have to bias edge along the edge of the runner, which could make it a bit wobbly and could stretch and not sit really nicely. So by cutting it, by cutting it twice in a diagonal, we're going to have all these long sides of the triangles. We have as a straight edge. And that will help to keep this nice and straight. Yeah. So what we're gonna do is you're gonna take your blocks, small block and you're going to attach a triangle to each side of, of the, of the border. So that's going to be kind of our third, third border. And to create a triangle like this. In this case, it doesn't really matter which one goes first because at the end, we're not gonna see it. So and they will also little bit overlap themselves. So that is that is absolutely fine. Yeah. So go ahead and stitch these on. Now you've got your triangles attached. As you can see, they do overlap here. Quite a bit and that is OK. In the latest stages it will be trimmed off and it will not be showing. So don't really worry, doesn't really matter if the left is over right, right is over left. That is tiny details we don't need to worry about. So now how to join this? This table runner together So you want to start by placing the central panels on point next to each other so that they are touching by the points and that all the direction of the central fabric, if you've got a directional fabric is facing the same way. And then we wil place these ones, making sure that the direction of that little square is going the same direction again. So this one will be here. This one needs to be there, and this one needs to be here. There we go. So as you can see, it starts to look like a table runner. Now, the next step, as in when you make a quilt and you've got lots of blocks together, you first join the blocks into rows, and then you join the rows together. So what we're gonna do here, we're gonna do the same principle, but our rows are going to look strange. So this, you can place these two onto one side. Then you're going to have these three in the middle. And then the last row will be that. So as you can see, we've got rows as well. But because we've got the blocks on point, we've got kind of awkward rows. Now the next step, you need to have your pin ready. And you know that you're going to join these two, these two blocks together. They will line up here exactly. And as you can see on this side here, they will be a little bit that the triangle goes a little bit over So don't worry about that. You want to start by lining up these, these two right angles. And what you're gonna do is you can flip this one over and you need to straight mark that this is the edge which you're going to be stitching because you are just, just, just go prepare it like this. But then you go to the sewing machine and actually, sew the other seam, not the one which is supposed to. And obviously then you will have the two blocks going the opposite direction. So what we want is start again. So you know that this is the seam you're going to be doing. So you flip it over and you straight mark it with a pin. The same is the middle one. So you get a flip this one over and mark that this is the seam you need to be doing. And I always place the pin next to, next to the right angles. Yeah, next to the edge with right angles. Not really the one where we've got the triangle. And this one will flip onto the other side and will be stitched here. So on the middle panel, you just need to make sure that you are keeping these triangle ends away so that you don't stitch them, as you can see, it would be very easy to stitch them over and then, you know, you can't open it. So just keep them out of the way. And the last one obviously will be this seam when you've done that. So I've got another one I prepared earlier. And I'm just gonna spread it, sometimes it can be a bit puzzling. Like what did I ? Where do I go? So here we go. Just play with it, fiddle with it until it looks like the runner, you are making. And now the main thing is that you can start by, we're going to be joining these, these, these edges now. And you wanna make sure that here we've got a lovely x. So the points of the central panels are beautifully matching and kissing. Don't worry about matching the, matching the ends of the triangles or anything like that, because then they will be not matching here in the center. So that is where you, where you need to start. So you're going to flip that over. And you want to start pining from the centre and then going, going out so that you can stitch the whole seam. Now, as you have attach these blocks, which you need to do is when you pressing the seams to one side, you want to always press them to the same side. I tend to press them towards the block because here I've got only two seams coming towards that's joint. And here I've got three seams coming into the joint. So kind of keep them more seems flat. And an only bend these two over it doesn't really matter which way as long as you always do it the same way on all of, on all of these. So either all of them towards the central book or all of them towards the, towards the triangular blocks. So that when you, when it comes to joining these together, you've got these two seems going in the opposite direction. And then it's much, much, easier to back them up and line them up and make sure that they match beautifully. Yeah, so join these, these last two. And next, we're going to start basting and quilting it. 6. 4 Quilting: So now you've got your table runner pieced because we had some bias seams, just use a bit of steam to properly flatten it. That's what I usually do. I just, I just steam it and it just makes it lovely, lovely and flat. Now you've got all these little, little ears coming out. These look like on, on these corners. They look like they're sticking little bit longer. It don't worry. I honestly tend to straighten them and trim them off only after we've done all the quilting. Yeah. So so leave them, leave them as they are. If you bought a kit, you might find that you still have got. These extra strips, you know, spare of this, of this fabric which we cut as triangles. So you've got the option, as you can see, this runner doesn't have them added to either end. And the grey version has got these strips making the table run it a little bit longer. It is an optional thing. Just find out where you want to put them if it's the right length or if you want them, you know, a little bit longer. You can see the sort of Christmas version from last year doesn't have them. This one has got it, just finishes it off, slightly differently. So have a think and either attach them again, you can leave the strips sticking out. We will be trimming it all once it's all quilted. So I'm just going to put this one on the side for now. I've prepared my wadding tiny bit larger all the way around and then the actual table runner. And I prepared my backing fabric. I'm choosing something. What is, what sort of blends in, doesn't stand out too much. But I've seen people putting a really nice, pretty fabric which will then make it, make the table runner reversible. So, you know, like if you choose, for example, a really large nice design, then yeah, that can make it reversible design, but the choice is entirely up to you. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just going to place it, place it on. I'm gonna start with this end, which is, which is nice and straight now because it's just a table runner, I don't tend to tape it down. But normally, if I was doing a quilt, I would tape the backing down so that it doesn't move because the moment you put the wadding on the top of it, you don't know what happened to it underneath, but with the table runners you can just easily flip this over, flatten that backing onto the, wadding, smooth it all out and then do the same with the front. So there we go. Now, as you can see, I've got a little bit of the runners sticking out. So what you're gonna do to fix it, I could maybe move the table, runner little bit towards this side to make it fit in. But if you are ever in this situation, let me show you a nice and easy trick. What you're gonna do is you're going to cut this corner here, especially on a table runner which has got a pointy pointy ends. You can easily do that. So you're going to cut this and you're going to attach it to this end. So you're going to place it like this. And when it's stitched together, have enough backing. I've folded it. There we go. So when it stitched together, you will have enough backing to cover the whole lot. Yeah. So sometimes, you know, you can help yourself like this rather than buying an extra fat quarter or something, just to make that happen. So just a nice trick. Now, when it comes to quilting, Do you remember these seams the main seams which we made to join the blocks together. Well, that is the first thing. What I start with when it comes to quilting, you can start on one side and stitch in the ditch all the way along the edges of the big blocks. Yeah. So you're gonna go along and then you can turn here and go this way. And then you start the same from the other side making a little v. The next step, that will secure it, that will sort of hold it together. And the next step, you can go in the ditch or, or inside quarter of an inch or inside of the block. Or you can go in the ditches of these, sky is the limit. I found that the fabrics are usually so busy that you don't really need a lot of quilting and just doing this simple quilting in a ditch is enough. Yeah. Let me show you a couple of samples how it looks from behind. So as you can see, I've done my main crosses and then just quilted in the ditch of the around the borders. Yeah. That's that's all. This one has got even less, but it's, it's even less visible on this backing. So let's have a look at this one again, its support to busy, busy fabric, but the idea is the same and it holds it together. You can go around the details and go round. But honestly, I think that sometimes it's just too much hustle and not really any effect at the end of the day. So you can do, you decide you're the maker and you can do as little or as much as you would like. I've done the quilting it's time to trim the excess. And this is where we straighten all the edges. So I tend to start with the pointy corners. So you're going to take your mat and cutter and you're gonna lined up the edge of the fabric. But also the seam with one of the lines. We started with two-inch strip. So theoretically you are cutting inch and three quarters so you can line up your ruler on inch and quarter seam going through the seam between, between the last block border and the last one there. And trim off. the edge, we are going to do the same on the other side and the same with this edge. Now this is the time. If the strips are not always perfectly straight, you can do a little wiggle, wiggle here wiggle there just to sort of bring it nice and straight. The next step will be to straighten this edge. Now, you've got, you've got two choices. You can either bring the seam way that you've got the points right next to the binding. Or you can leave a little bit more space in there. It's entirely up to you. If you're going to have the same fabric as you've got, you've got here as your, as your binding, then it doesn't really matter. It can actually, you know, you can leave a bit of space there. But if you've got some different fabric, like for example here, it might be actually nicer to have the points going straight, to the or finished the points right next to the binding. Yeah. To do that. How to do that is you're gonna take your take your ruler and place it on so that your, tips of the, blocks, the corners of the, blocks are exactly a quarter of an inch from the edge. You can push it manipulate it little bit so that you get the right, the right amount and then trim it. Go further and just finish the trimming the rest. So again, what you are keeping an eye on is the excuse me, the tip of the block and that the tip is about a quarter of an inch from the edge. there We go. So once you've trimmed it all the way, round on both sides, then you can prepare your binding. 7. 5 Binding: So you're going to take one strip and place it in front of you, right-side-up. Then you're going to take another strip and place it on top of it. But in an L shape. Place it on top of the first one. As you can see, I'm leaving these things hanging a little bit longer. Because what you want to do is you want to stitch from this point where the bottom strip and the top strip meet to the point where they meet on the opposite side. And if it's going to help you to draw a line with a marker, then do so. And that is going to be the line of your stitch. I'm just gonna hold it down with a pin and when you stitch it at this place. Then when you open it, you are going to get a nice continuous strip. If you stitch it a little bit off, let me just show you what it would do if I stitch a little bit off-center. You will not, can you see how it's, how it's jumping here and here as well. So you need to really stick to that. place where they meet to that point where they meet and when you do so, that's when you get a lovely continuous strip. Without these, these edges will, will be then nice and straight. When you take it from Underneath the sewing machine first check that it looks the way you wanted to look. And then you can cut away the excess, leaving about a quarter of an inch of the seam allowance and open the seams and just finger press and flatten. There was no reason taking it under the sewing machine. It can be fiddly sometimes. So yeah, just finger press them open and that's that. To attach the binding to the runner, you can leave about four inches off the strip of the beginning of the strip unstitched. And you can start somewhere in the middle of one of the sides. I don't tend to pin the binding to the runner because it usually stretches, so that's fine. Now, as you approach your first corner, what you want to do is you want to find the middle of that angle. And because it's much larger than a right angle, you need to find a middle and stitch all the way until that you can help yourself with the pin. If it's going to help you, then you are going to do a backstitch once you reach the center and you can take it out from, from the sewing machine and flip the strip up so that the right edge , of the runner, which you're going to be where you're going to be stitching and the strip both create a continuous line. Yeah. Then you're going to flip the strip back down. You can have a right angle of the, of the fold and the right edge of the runner you gonna be sewing. It's gonna create a small Small folds there. And you can start stitching, straight from the beginning. That's fine. And the next corner is the right angled. So there you want to finish about a quarter of an inch, from the end. And so again, if you want to help yourself with the pin, that's absolutely fine too. Backstage, take the piece out of out of the machine and rotate it so that the, the edge which you're going to be instituting Next is right in front of you. Flip the strip up. And again what we are after is that the right edge of the runner and the right edge of the strip are creating a continuous line. Then we're going to flip the strip down. The fold is nicely along the top edge, creating a nice right angle. And they can see that fold on the left-hand side is much, much deeper and continue stitching all the way. So this is how you can treat all the corners. Now, let me just show you how it looks after you've stitched it. As you can see, you just flip the strip to the other side and it creates lovely mitred corners, even larger angled corners. They are just beautifully mitred this way. Now, there are two things which can happen. One thing is that you don't stitch far enough. So what you do is you will fold the strip in the place as to create that sort of continuous edge on the right-hand side Yeah. And then crease it well, and flip the strip back so you kind of fold it little bit further than that. where it naturally wants to sit because you didn't stitched far enough. And you continue the same way. And as you can see, it's absolutely fine. There is nothing undone unstitched, so, so that fixes it quite easily. The other thing which can happen is that you stitch. Too far. You still do backstitch. That's fine. But this time we're just gonna take a sharp pointed scissors and you will snip away. all the stitches until the right edge of the runner and the strip, when fliped up are making a nice continuous strip and you continue as normal folding it down and continuing. Now before we join the two ends, you just wanted to check that your corners. If you wanted to, wanted them to sort of go along the binding, you just want to check that that you haven't stitch them off, stitched over the corners. Next thing we need to do is we need to join the two ends. So you're going to leave about four or five inches unstitched in between. And you can take the first strip and fold it in a 45 degrees and do a good crease with your fingers and bring the other one and fold it in the same angle, but up. And as you can see, I've left a little tiny gap in between. It's because the strip has a tendency to stretch. So. it's easier this way and I can lift the two strips together. And what you want to do is you need to stitch them together, lining up these two creases perfectly, one on top of each other. So have a little fiddle, have a little play. We still want to create a nice continuous strip. So, so this is quite, quite crucial. So pin it in the right, in the right place. I also use another pin to pin the runner. Can you see in half like this, that's that little excess is not pulling the two strips together and it's little bit easier. That way. When you stitch it together. You just want to first unpin the pin which is holding the table runner shorter. And you want to check that you've created a nice continuous strip. And then the strip is the right length for the little piece of the runner. If you're happy. If it's not too small or too big, then you can cut away the excess of the binding and stitch, stitch back the gap. This next part is optional. I like to actually press the binding out, but some people don't want to put an iron onto their work. So I completely understand that. But I like to stitch my binding on a machine. And this way it's much easier to prepare it for stitching on the machine. So I've pressed it from the right side and then, from the wrong side, I press about quarter of an inch in onto the strip and I press that end onto the backing. And you would be doing this if you just stitch it by hand, you would be just doing it as you go. But I like to prepare it with iron because and it keeps it a nice and crisp edge. So as you can see, as you fold this trip, it creates a lovely mitred corner from the other side as well. So have a little, little fiddle with it until you are happy. And then press it, press it in place. As you press, press it the second time. It automatically prepares the corner. And the first fold into the next edge. As you can, as you can see, I'll just hold it down with hand and it automatically. So if you want to prepare it like this. If you want to do it by machine, then this is, this is definitely much easier to have it prepared with an iron. So to hand stitch this edge, you're going to prepare a needle and a thread. I tend to use thread which matches the fabric of the binding. In this instance, I'm using a black one just so that you can see what I'm doing. So I've got a knot at the end of the threads and . It's threaded singularly. And I poke it through underneath. To have the threat coming out onto the edge of the folded edge of the binding. And here you can see where the thread is coming from. So I'm gonna take the needle and put it straight underneath and come along about quarter of an inch in, a quarter of an inch further. And I'm going to come out along the edge of the binding, but not into the binding. There we go. Now the next step is to take this into the, into the fold of the binding. Yeah. So I'm literally just taking it into the fold like that. And then when you see at the same spot where the thread is coming from, the binding, you put it underneath and come out along. Now, you can actually join these two steps into one. To do that, you're gonna poke it into the, into the fold. But instead of coming out, you just come underneath like this and come along. And as you can see, even though I've used black thread, you can't actually see the stitches. Yeah. So let me show you a couple more. You cannot go into the fold and straight under and come along the edge of the binding. We go one more into the fold and instead of coming out, you take it underneath and up in the corner, you can just continue. So you're going to fold this over to mitre this. And if you want, you can just do little stitch just to catch this down. catch this down. There are no perfect rules. There you go. That's just holding it, holding it all down. And I can continue with my stitch into the fold and underneath. Underneath. And that's how you do it by hand. If you do decide to stitch it by machine, then I then just stitch it either in the ditch of the binding. I always sew it from the front, might not look the neatest on the back, but if you choose very similar threat to the colour of the binding strip, then it makes it makes it really very invisible. Another way how you can do it is you can stitch it about a millimeter onto the binding strip. Either way is fine. Either way looks very nice and neat. So that's it. You should now have a nice finished table runner. I really hope you enjoyed doing it with me and I look forward to seeing you in our next workshop. Thank you. Take care.