Floral Resin Jewelry Basics | Sarah Trafford | Skillshare

Floral Resin Jewelry Basics

Sarah Trafford, Designer

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14 Lessons (43m)
    • 1. Resin jewelry intro

      1:17
    • 2. Findings + Bezels

      1:32
    • 3. Prepping organics

      4:50
    • 4. Resin Safety

      6:05
    • 5. Resin tools

      2:31
    • 6. Setting up for resin

      2:25
    • 7. Mixing resin

      3:08
    • 8. First layer of resin

      4:20
    • 9. Second + third layer

      3:58
    • 10. Colouring resin

      2:05
    • 11. Removing from molds

      3:17
    • 12. Jewelry tools

      0:45
    • 13. Making jewelry

      6:08
    • 14. Finished pieces

      0:35
32 students are watching this class

About This Class

In this course I'll show you how to make resin pendants using flowers. I don't go over the process of pressing and drying flowers in this video however you don't want to use fresh flowers. I simply press my flowers between a folded piece of paper and put inside a heavy book for a week. If you download the class PDF you will find a mini take a-way version of this course for all the things you should remember or need later on. This also includes links to places where you can find bezels etc. 

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Transcripts

1. Resin jewelry intro: Hello and welcome to my resin jewelry course. Same. Didn't show you how you can use resin to create some pretty cool jewelry pieces. Um, they're pretty much all necklaces, thes air, some of the different styles of necklaces or pendants that we're going to be creating in this course, Um, using different materials for each one of these. So I've done a lot of trial and error, and I'll show you some of that with these pieces. The 1st 1 I'm showing you, I used a tape that didn't have a smooth surface, so it kind of made it like frosted. Um, also bubbles air, huge problems. So you can see in this one There's so many bubbles. And here I placed it on a plastic that wasn't totally flat. This one I didn't fill up enough. And this one, the objects had floated to the top. So they stuck out. And this one I had a poor seal when I had the object against, like, the tape or whatever the residents seeped through. So there's a lot of different reasons why it could go wrong, and I'm going to try and show you how it can go right and this is an example of one that turned out really beautifully. It's really nicely domed at the top. There is minimal bubbles and the back is finished very nicely. So that's what I'm gonna show you today. 2. Findings + Bezels: so this course requires quite a few tools. I'm going to start with puzzles because that's where we'll be starting in our process. Ah bustle is basically an open face pendant so you can actually see through the resin. So there's no backing I have would bez als. And then I also have silicone moulds. And then I also have a sterling so silver it's not really a bustle. It actually, um, like a closure. But I'm using it as something I could put my resident, and I'll make sure to put some links to places where you can purchase puzzles online. So this one I've done previously, and I did it with just a leaf I picked outside, so it won't be showing that one in the class. But I will be showing you this one, which is actually my favorite, and I just use queen ends lace one flower, and I use this again with the wood basil. It looks really pretty and organic and natural, so I'll show you how to create both of those, plus a couple other things. Those two are definitely my favorite. Out of all of them, the silicone mold is a really good, cheap. An easy way of doing this. It basically has no border and already has the whole built into the mold. This one is actually was open because it was a closure. So it had, like, a bar that went through to close a bracelet. But I decided to use it as a bustle. So I encourage you to get creative with the type of closures or bustles that you find that you can use to put resonant. 3. Prepping organics: So for my examples, I am using a wood vessel. So you do need to prep this, especially if you want it stained. And I do recommend staining it because then the resin if it seeps and it doesn't discolor it. So I'm gonna just start by standing all these pieces there, ready for the stain. While I'm doing that, I'll just let you know that I got these pieces, um, laser cut from a local shop in Toronto. I purchased the she of wood from Michael's, and then I paid someone to cut hm using their laser cutter, and I actually used the inside pieces for little pendant pins. So the wood stain I bought from a local hardware shop is different than normal stain. It's in a tube, so it's kind of like a gel texture, which I think is good for these really tiny pieces. Because, um, the stain you buy to the stain large piece of furniture is so messy and so smelly or is this one has no smell and it's so easy to apply. And when you have such a small surface, I think it it doesn't really matter too much. This turns out great, and it's just user friendly. So I highly recommend for this purpose. I did try and use the stain for an art board and didn't like it, so I would just only use it on small surfaces. I just grabbed a like an old cloth and put a quote on each side. And then I went in and actually did a second coat on each side. Um, so depending on how dark you want it, you can even go in for 1/3 coat. Or, if you're happy, just with the first coach, leave it at that. It's totally up to you. Just make sure you let the peace dry in between coats. Last coat is completely dry. I do need to seal the wood when you have something that is a more organic, more material with resin. That is where you'll see a lot of bubbles come out just because it breathes and there's spaces in between the grain. So to seal my wood pieces, I'm using mod podge. You couldn't get a glossy or matte one. Whatever you prefer. I did get the gloss, and I'm just using a cheap paintbrush M and I just cut over till forest that I'm actually going to be doing the same thing for the flowers as well as the wood pieces, because the flowers are organic as well, and there's a lot of space in between the pedals and leaves. So, ah, when resin gets in there, it does have bubbles at 10 to surface. So if you just seal that, um, whether it's your flowers or the wood pieces, if you seal that with some of the mod podge, it creates a coat and the layer that kind of keeps the resin from getting inside, and you don't even notice it when you put the resin over, because it's, um, again like another clear coat. So before I add that mod podge onto my flowers and wood pieces, just making sure by placing them in my bustles, that these are the flowers I want to use and just kind of get a loose idea of where I want to put them. So now that I know which flowers they definitely want to use, I'm just going to add my coat of mod part first to my bustles, and I'm just letting the coat dry before I flip it over into the other side. I also coat the inside of the wood to because the residents going to be going on inside and a lot of the times resin gets a lot of bubbles around the outside edges, so I'm just making sure to put a seal on the inside anywhere the resin will touch basically , to do this with your flowers, you want to be really, really, really gentle because, especially with something like Queen Anne's lace, you could accidentally just like pull off one of the little pedals with your brush. So just be very, very gentle and try and get into all the little nooks and crannies. Um, and you don't have to be very. You don't have to use the mod podge sparingly. You can use quite a bit of it. It's OK. There's a big blob because it's just going to dry clear. So you just want to make sure that they are fully dry before you move on to resin. So I'm doing my second coat of my vessels and of my flowers. And when I mean second coat, I mean that I flipped them over so I don't actually do two coats. But you could if you wanted to. So I'm just flipping these over to make sure I get the other side. Make sure to wash your brush right after using the mod podge. 4. Resin Safety: every resident company has a safety data sheet that even download. But in general, I don't believe that any resident is safe to use, like without proper equipment and just in your home, as you would use. Like I don't know, acrylic paints so have, like five different ways that you can be safe when using resin. The 1st 1 which is pretty obvious and every resin packaging will tell you this is to use in a ventilated area. So if you have a garage or a shed, I think those air probably the ideal places to do it. I don't love doing in my living room, but I do live in a condo so I don't have a garage. But you do want to make sure you have windows, doors, whatever open. You want all of that air to just go outside and not stay in the room you're in. Right now, it's winter, so it's freezing, which means I can't have the windows open because the resident won't cure in really, really cold weather or really really damp, wet weather. So I'm basically on a seasonal break because it's not safe to do resin in a condo where you don't have any airflow basically well, proper airflow. You also want to make sure that you don't have any. You also want to make sure you don't have any of your pets around. Is not safe for pets or Children or any other humans to be around when you're doing any resin mixing because they don't have that proper gear or safety precautions for them, especially animals. So just be very, very careful that those people or your pets are not in the same room. So Number two is also a very obvious one because most packaging for resident will say is use gloves. I have these natural gloves. He's the ones I've been using. Um, I think that they are getting not for resin, Uh, but again, I would do your own research. I'm not an expert, but these are what I have been using, and you can also double double up on the gloves. So just wear two gloves were on top of each other. They do tend to snap quite easily. Well, I haven't really had them snap easily on my hands, but I have seen in videos where they have snapped for other people. So if you have one underneath and you're like good to go in just extra safe. So definitely you want to make sure you're wearing gloves. Resin is not only not great have on your skin, but it's also really, really difficult to clean off. I believe that there's a soap that people use something like has orange in it, and people I have mentioned that they leave out right by the sink as an emergency in case they do get resin on their hands. Then they can use this special type of soap to clean it off. I do find like rubbing alcohol and nail polish remover can remove resin from surfaces if I accidentally get it somewhere, but you don't want to use that to get it off your skin. Eso make sure you use gloves so you don't get it on your skin, and you also want to do the third stage precaution, which is where the proper clothes. So make sure you're wearing long sleeves and something old, because even if you do get resin on your clothes like it's gonna ruin them. So you guys are old ones, but you also wanna wear long sleeves so you don't accidentally get any on your arms. So the last two precautions are ones that I was not using at the beginning but are super super important. And you should definitely invest in thes two if you're going to start resident, so the 1st 1 is a respirator. This is 1/2 mask respirators. You can also get a full mask respirator, which is just that much better. It's just a little bit extra for precaution cause it's gonna cover the rest of your face. You want to make sure that the cartridges filter organic vapour. I believe that's what I honestly took me a long time to find the right respirator. I was in a lot of Facebook groups and asking a lot of questions every race from different countries. So there's different respirators for a different countries, I guess, and there's so many different cartridges. So again, do your own research. But as far as I know, the organic vapour cartridges what you're supposed to use. I got this for my hardware store lows, and it was pretty inexpensive. I think it was like 30 or $40. You want to make sure that it's working when you put it on your respirator should come with instructions that when you put it on, you can actually test to make sure that it is filtering air. And then these cartridges don't last forever. So you want to make sure you change them when you need to. If you have 1/2 mass like me than the fifth precaution I recommend is glad. Safety glasses. These ones are large enough to fit over top of prescription glasses, so you couldn't wear those underneath as well. And that's just gonna protect your eyes. Because if you are a resident, your eyes, that would be absolutely horrible. I put this on first. I hope that was helpful again. I'm not an expert on resin or safety precautions. This is just what you should be doing as a bare minimum. If you're using resin, if you have any questions, I'll try my best. Answer them. However, I recommend joining some Facebook groups on resin because there's, ah, huge community on there that you can ask questions Teoh and just getting other people's experience and opinions and also like finding fax of your own. I recommend that because that's kind of where I learned a lot and just be careful 5. Resin tools: So we've prepped all our flowers and our basil's, and now it's time to show you all of the tools you'll need for the resin process. I use the silicone mat because it's great, just as a surface to work on it keeps my tables protected. I also used this silicone mixing tool. I find that the more silicone and less would I use less bubbles. They used to use just a wood Popsicle stick, but I changed over to the silicone. I'm also going to use that tape to hold down my bustles. You'll definitely need some gloves because resin is very messy and these are my two measuring cups. I like smaller measuring cups for jewelry because I'm using a much smaller amount Mostel using a straw, because a straw is great for blowing bubbles out on. And that's also why I have this later. The CO two, I guess, from the lighter, um, helps get the bubbles out, and this heat gun also does the same thing. I have a safe or a needle, just a poke, any bubbles as well as like, pull out any fuzz or hair that I find in the pieces. Lastly, you will need resin. I use art resin. It is one part resin, one part hardener Art resin is really safe to use at home. It doesn't have a lot of toxic fumes, and I find it easy to use. It's just a 1 to 1 ratio, and it also doesn't yellow as quickly as other resins. So I've had really good experiences for a reason and have just stuck with it. It's also pretty easy to find at my local crafts and art stores. Lastly, I have this bucket, and I use this as a way to warm up my resin because if you're resin is very, very cold, which right now I live in Toronto and winter, so it is cold. When you pour resin cold, it will have more bubbles. So I do put it in a bit of a warm water bath just for five minutes so that it heats the resin up just a little bit. With the class materials, I will have a little sheet on how to avoid bubbles, and we'll explain this a little bit more in that sheet. Do be warned that it does make the curing time shorter 6. Setting up for resin: Okay, So now I'm setting up all of these puzzles so that they're ready for resin. I do it in my own unique way. I have these, um, plastic holder, actually, acrylic. I have them laser cut. And they are roughly about the same size as my wood and bustles. So I clamped my basil on there. There's two ways that you can do this this way. I'm showing you right now. I have just wrapped a plastic that block bag around it, and the one I showed you earlier actually just put a piece of clear tape around it. They have their pros and cons. The tape does give you a nice flat surface, but it's harder to remove the vessel from the tape. The plastic. It comes off very easily from the bustle, but it's not a super, even flat surface. Toehold these down. I'm just using binder clips that you would find at a office supply store, and these are just They open just wide enough to hold both of these in, and I only need one on either side. This creates enough Basile that the resident doesn't seep out from either of the other sides and this just makes things easy. Um, for me, I don't know. There's lots of ways you could do this. For instance, this next one that I'm showing you where it's the the flat sterling silver closure I'm taking the jump rings off first, and this is the most common way to do resin in your bustle for jewelry. And you want to use a high quality packing tape, one that is very, very slick because if it has any type of texture, you're going to see that in your resin. So this one is crystal clear, super high quality. I fold down both the sides so that it's easy to grab and move around, and I carefully place my closure on there and just tap it down because you want to make sure that the tape is touching everywhere along the silver and that it has a really, really tight seal. This way, the resin won't seep under the tape and make a huge mess. It'll just peel off nicely and have a clean cut that's the most common way or the silicone moulds, which you can spray. But I've never felt the need to, so I just put the resin in to the bear silicone mold, as is 7. Mixing resin: So now that I have all of my puzzles ready for the resin, the next part is mixing Rosen. This is an important step because this is where you can introduce a lot of bubbles and where you can try and reduce a lot of bubbles. So again, I'm using these small cups. They're really easy to clean afterwards, and they have smaller measurements, which I think is hard to find. And when it comes to the jewelry stuff I am, I usually just do a small amount at a time. So when I pour my resin, I like to look at it straight on, just to make sure that I get the exact measurements, you really want to be sure that you have a 1 to 1 ratio, because that is how you know that you're going to get a proper cure. So just be very, very careful about that. If you don't have a measuring cup with those increments printed on it, another way you can do this is with a scale, and you just make sure that when you put on the scale, you put in whatever amount you want, and then you make sure to match that with the the hardener or the resin, or vice versa, just make sure you remember what that number is because it's easy to forget and try not to over pork. Then you just have to go in with the other one and try and match it up. So now you have both parts in. You have to mix it for three minutes. I usually put three minutes 15 seconds. That gives me time to get my gloves back on, so you want to mix really slowly. You just almost want to fold it kind of like in your baking a cake. You just want Teoh folded. Scrape along the sides don't stir too quickly, and you want to make sure that it by the end, it's crystal clear, because if it's not totally mixed, you'll see, like kind of like strands or like cloudiness and lines going through it so you'll know when it's mixed when it's crystal clear. Even if the timer is up and it doesn't look crystal clear, you might need to mix a little longer and you can see I have bubbles, which I always dio. I tried tapping it just on the the counter to bring them up. And now I'm taking my straw and just blowing into the cup. This helps all of the surface bubbles to go away. You do have to be careful because sometimes when you're blowing in the straw, it will create like condensation. So you're you will have a buildup of your spit or water or whatever, and then that could leak into your resin, which will can ruin it. So another thing I dio is just kind of like hit it with some of the heat, like not too long, because it also affects the curing time. But just like a few seconds, maybe like four or five times, you're not gonna get rid of all the bubbles and we'll have another opportunity to try and get rid of them in the pieces, So just do your best. 8. First layer of resin: Okay, so we're gonna do our first layer of resin, and with these jewelry pieces, I do usually two or three layers. The more layers you dio, I find the less bubbles you'll have, because thinner layers have less bubbles. Also, you can layer your flowers really nicely and create some space in between them. So for my first layer, it's more to create kind of like a seal between the bustle and my resin. And then it also has a dual purpose, where it acts as a way to hold the flowers down. Because if you just poured all of your resin into these molds and then put your flower in the flower would just float to the top or rise to the top, and it would wouldn't look really nice. So I create a very thin layer first, and I just right now is moving it around slowly. This, I find, also helps get rid of some of the bubbles, just trying to make sure that the resident gets into every crevice and then I will place the flower on top and it's enough to stick it down. But, um, it's the fire won't sink to the bottom either, so it will be still up to the top, which is fine because we'll be adding Ah, second layer and probably even 1/3 layer for this one. It's a little bit more delicate because it doesn't have a high border or like a high edge around it. So I'm just taking my needle and just kind of pushing it to the sides, because I just want to fill the center first. And then when I go in for my second lier, I'll allow it to kind of gradually go out to the edges. So now I'm using my torch to try and get rid of bubbles again. I use either a strong or torch at this point, but I find a straw is like a little bit too forceful and aggressive. So be careful with your torch. You shouldn't be doing it for too long, and especially with the tape, don't us anything on fire or melt anything. So I have the flour in that 1st 1 and now I'm just adding it to the rest. I'm also using my pin to move the flower because it may not land where you want it to, so you can just move it to wherever you want. If you have a lot of resonant you can your pieces can also move a lot. So with the lighter layers or the thinner layers, I find they move a little less. But you still do kind of have to baby sit them because things can still move. And what I mean by baby sitting is during the first couple hours when the resin is curing, just go back to your pieces. I don't know, like every 20 half an hour and then just double check if they're in the right spot and if not just none to them a little bit with your needle just to make sure that they sit exactly where you want them to. So you can see here. I've added the flour to the middle, and, um, now I'm just going Teoh, finish up with E molds and then we can let them cure. Um, when you let them cure for the first time, you don't want to let them fully cure, like you don't wanna wait the 24 hours because it will be a little bit slick on top. And you want the second layer of resin to have something to stick to, so you just wait until it's at the like jell stage. So I usually wait maybe half that time, maybe 12 hours or 10 hours, and then I'll go in and do my second layer. If you do wait 24 hours, it's no big deal. You might just want to rough it up with some sandpaper, but because I use thes natural objects like the flowers or that feather, I don't really I want to use sandpaper, so I just try and do it before it fully cures. And while you're waiting for it to cure, discover it with some sort of plastic lid so that you don't get any debris or dust inside them. 9. Second + third layer : So your second and third layer or a lot of basically the same steps you're going to mix your resin all over again and you're going to add another layer, just another thin layer. I move it out to all of the sides to make sure it's touching. And, um, if you wanted to, you could always add another flower and layer it up so that there's a little bit of dimension. Um, I did that with this piece, and it just kind of it's a little bit nicer than just placing two flowers beside each other at once. You can kind of put one a little bit on top of the other one and the wood pieces. I'm definitely going to be doing three layers. The silicone piece, um, definitely doing three layers as well, but the sterling silver smaller one will just be two layers because it doesn't have as high of a place to fill. I find it's a good idea to pour slowly and a little bit higher. I don't know if that helps the bubbles, but I think it does, and also it just gives you control so you don't accidentally overfill because that would kind of be a little bit messy. And you want to take your torch to these once again, like every time you do a layer because they'll always be bubbles. And just make sure you're quick with that so that you don't actually burn the resin. So the second layer with this one is definitely a little bit more of a delicate process. I'm just doing drop by drop, making sure I don't overfill looks. I don't want it to fall over onto the tape and that I'm using my pin to basically draw it out to the edge. Once the resin touches the edge, it will naturally just stop. And then it starts to dome over. And you get that really nice kind of, um, don't basically. And if I feel like I need a little bit, Morial just add like another little die. And so you can see unless, like really overfill, it won't spill over to the edge. And again, be really careful when you are using the torch with the tape because you don't want to melt the tape. So when I've done the first layer or the second layer with the ones with the clasps I'll actually take those off so that from my last layer, I can fill to the top and dome it nicely. Not have to worry about those those butterfly clips on the sides. So it has a seal now, so they're not necessary anyway. But for my last layer, I'll just make sure to take those out for the two wooden pieces. I'm actually gonna be doing them a little bit differently. The round circular one I'm going toe Onley fill the center, whereas the one on the left, the square one I'm gonna fill so that it touches all around the edge, some similarly to that silver one I just showed you so that the wood is totally covered and it domes all the way from edge to edge. However, the circular one is just going to dome in the center, and then the wood around the resin is going to remain natural without any resin overtop. So when I'm done with ease, I'm going to torch them again, put them under their containers and then let them cure. And this time I'm gonna let them fully cure for 24 hours until they're totally done. And I'm gonna move on to another project while these air curing and get back to you, um, to make them into jewelry. 10. Colouring resin: during. I want to show you what else you can do with resin. You can actually color your resin. I'm using this pearl X pigment in duo Red Blue. It's kind of like an am a theist color, and I'm just adding it into my already mixed present. So it's already one part resin, one part hardener. And I'm just using a Popsicle stick this time because, um, it's a little bit easier with the color exciting. Just grab it from the container, put it in there, and I'm gonna use this, plus some AM a fist crystals and mix them together and put them in this closure. I'm gonna use the resin as my first layer, just so that the crystals have something to adhere onto. And again, this wasn't actually a bustle. It was a closure for a bracelet, so you could put like a bar between two. Close your bracelet so you just again have to get creative, different products you can use, and I just cleaned up some reason. So just make sure you clean up because it's easier to clean it up when it's wet rather than when it's cured. So those air the stones that I'm using already. Put my first layer and it hasn't cured. It's still fully wet. It's now. I'm just going to drop in some of the stones and just arrange them. How I think will look nicely. And I'm just going to go back and forth between pouring some of the resin overtop, adding a few more stones, moving it around and cleaning my area up and again. This tapes I'm using is the really, really super clear, high quality tape. So when I take it off, the back of my resin is going to be really, really nice and slick and not kind of like textured or frosted, because whatever you place your resin on, it's going to take on the characteristics of that material. 11. Removing from molds: Okay, so this is the fun part. This is after 24 hours when they've all cured. So you can see the 1st 1 where use the Ziploc bag That just peeled off with no effort at all. But you can see on the back that there's a little bit of, um, kind of because it's not totally flat. There's a little bit of, like ups and downs, and that actually won't matter if you plan on Domingo back of it. And this one is the one I just showed you with the crystals. So I had it on tape and I just peeled it off of the tape. And so you can see the back is really nice and smooth. There is one hole, but that has nothing to do with the tape. That's probably because of the crystal. So this one is also on the tape, so you can see here. I just peel it off nicely, and the back looks really, really great. It's crystal clear. There is some tape residue, So to get rid of that, I'm actually just going to use the tape and just, like, patted on to pull it off. If this doesn't work. Just use Google on, and that should get rid of any tape residue that's tough to remove without just tapping it with a tape. I've tried both methods and Google on works when I can't get to get rid of it with the just tape, so the ones with silicone moulds are definitely the easiest. You just peel the sides away and there you go. It's finished. This one had a lot of bubbles, and that's because it's a feather. So, uh, I actually didn't mod podge the feather. And this one. I do find those cyclical molds do have more bubbles because these air they were higher mold , so I probably could have done it maybe four layers. This one is where I had the tape over the acrylic, and it is a little harder to get rid of. I have the wedge, my Exacto knife and then just kind of bend it, which is really dangerous, could because you could easily cut yourself so you can see on the back. It's a lot flatter than with be plastic Ziploc bag, but again, it's a little bit tricky and a little bit dangerous. And this one I didn't dome all the way, the edges, which I really like because you have the really nice would texture. And then, as you can see, the square one, we did dome all the way to the edges. So they both look beautiful, but just a different look. Sometimes with the silicone moulds. You do have a little bit of access, even if you don't really overfill, so that's fine. I just use my Exacto knife and just slowly and carefully peel that away with the knife and I shouldn't be cutting towards myself. It's again very dangerous. Don't do what I do with the Nice because of I clearly am not a good example, and I have definitely heard myself by accident before, so I'm doing the same thing with the round piece. You just wanna cut that off and then it looks like it never happened. So you don't have toe bother sanding or anything. You just, uh, cut that off. It's really, really thin, so it's also really easy to remove. It doesn't take very much effort with a knife at all, 12. Jewelry tools: So before we get to the last step of actually making the jewelry, I'm gonna show you the tools I use to make my jewelry. So I have a manual drill, some drill bits, pliers, some E 6000 glue. And then I've bought just a whole bunch of different types of findings for jewelry. Different closures, jump rings, chains have pins as well. You can really get creative with your different findings and make something really unique. I also make sure you have a measuring tape on hand just for measuring my chain. And then so you would need scissors as well for cutting chains, um, and other things. So this is pretty much all you'll need for making jewelry. 13. Making jewelry: Okay, so we've prepped earpieces. We laid the mo we poured our resin. We've gone rid of the bubbles. We've de molded them and clean them up. It's time to get your tools so we can start making jewelry. And this drill is great. I got it off Amazon. It's really, really tiny. And you just pull that thing down, Teoh, make it do its drill thing. And then it comes with ease. Really, really tiny drill bits as well. So I use that for my wood pieces because I have no place to actually put a ring or class. So use the 0.86 Drillbit and that when I find fit my bills really well. So you just pick a place where you want that to go, and then make sure that you have a steady hand and a mat underneath so they don't damage any surfaces, and you just push it up and down until you have that hole and take it out. I just move it in off or twisted in the opposite direction to take it out. So we have a really nice clean hole. Didn't take any electric drill, so you don't have to be scared of ruining your piece. Um, I find this is a little bit safer and a little less nerve racking, and it's also just really, really easy. And it's a super inexpensive Tulloch's well, so to attach the bail I have these which are sterling silver and they just kind of clamped together. And then they have those jump rings and chain. So I am it. Probably stay put if I just clamped it. But just to double like double, make sure that it stays. I'm going to use the E 6000 glue, and you have to make sure you buy it in the transparent glue so that it dries clear. And it is like industrial strength glue, so it definitely will stay in place if you use this. This is what I found other jewellers on YouTube or whatever used. So it came highly recommended, and I have had good luck with it. So I just put it on the ends of my bail and then place that in the hole and then clamped that together. And then I just made sure that it's the Bayliss sitting straight where I want it. Teoh, and then I just put this to the side and let this dry. You could let it dry overnight if you want. So for the silver one actually covered the holes with resin. So now I'm going in the drill again just to re, uh, puncture those holes because they're in the silver, but the resin covered them. And then I put the jump rings that came with it back in through those holes that I just made in the resin, and now it's ready to go on a chain. So to add this one with the crystals to a chain, I'm just grabbing a jump ring because this already has, like, a bail or a place to put a jump ring. So I just put that on there, and then I can just easily add this to a necklace. So I'm doing basically the same thing with E. The piece I made in the silicone mold with the Feather X. I'm just going to use that as a key chain, so the silicone moulds are great because they have a piece of silicone so that the resin goes around it, which then creates a hole that you can easily put one of these jump rings through, so you don't have to worry about drilling a hole for those as it's already there. So I'm just gonna close this and then I'll just add it. Teoh, a key ring that I bought from a jewelry store. So now I've got all of the bales and the rings in place, these air already to put on chains. So I have purchased some self sterling Silver Train as well as just some silver plated Jane and I tend to measure it out with my measuring tape at about 16 inches, I find that's a great length for the style of chain that I like. And I just use regular scissors to cut it because the chain is not super thick and I might need a smaller jump ring with something that's thinner because the chain has such small loops. So you just have to kind of see which one you purchase and then just play around with different size. Jump brings to see what will work because every chain will kind of require something different. And when you're opening the jump ring with your pires, you always want to make sure to open it by directing the jump bring down so that you don't have a large gap when you push them back together. I try and show you that on here, but it's a little bit out of focus, but you'll see what I mean. Um, and then I've add my closures as well. I really like those lobster clasps. So this one is done. And again, this one's my favorite. So I am pretty pleased with that one. And this one's really easy, because you can just thread a chain right through that large dump ring, and it's good to go this one as well. I've already placed the bail in it, and I have a chain ready to go, and this one is the same thing. So these air the finished pieces. This one, I think, looks beautiful, with the wood and the flowers just floating in the middle. And, um, this one, I think, is really cool because it's It's just so dainty and the crystals a really need to, um, it's funded. Play around with the different colored resin 14. Finished pieces: I hope you enjoyed this class and it gives you some tips. There's so much you can do. So think outside the box and try different materials. Try different jewelry, closures or bustles and just get really creative. If you have any questions, make sure to ask me in the course I'm happy to do my best answer. I've done a lot of trial and error so I might be able to help you. Or if you have some ideas, um, I'd love to hear them, and I'd love to see what you guys create.