Embroidered Ginkgo Leaf Brooch: Using The Chain Stitch & Double Running Stitch | Charlotte Kan | Skillshare

Embroidered Ginkgo Leaf Brooch: Using The Chain Stitch & Double Running Stitch

Charlotte Kan, Teacher: Hand Embroidery / Sewing ✂️

Embroidered Ginkgo Leaf Brooch: Using The Chain Stitch & Double Running Stitch

Charlotte Kan, Teacher: Hand Embroidery / Sewing ✂️

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9 Lessons (25m)
    • 1. Gingko Brooch Embroidery Intro

      1:10
    • 2. Materials And Tools

      2:47
    • 3. Threading And Starting

      3:37
    • 4. Transfer The Design To Light And Dark Fabric

      2:05
    • 5. Chainstitch

      3:09
    • 6. Holbein Stitch Or Double Running Stitch

      1:07
    • 7. Stitching The leaf

      5:50
    • 8. Adding the Brooch Backing

      3:39
    • 9. Final Thoughts And Tips

      1:31
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About This Class

In this class you'll learn how to embroider a ginkgo leaf by hand, using the chainstitch to fill the leaf and how to turn your embroidery piece into a brooch.

You'll learn the chainstich, the reverse chain stitch and i'll share my tips and tricks to get the filling to emulate the radiating veins that are so typical of the ginkgo leaf.

Allthough we'll be using intermediate techniques, I'll explain all the steps and we'll mostly be working with the chainstitch so you'll get a lot of practice.

What we'll cover in this class:

- Materials & tools

- How to transfer the design onto fabric light and dark fabrics

- Threading your needle & invisible ways to start your thread

- Chainstitch & reverse chain stitch

- Double Running Stitch a.k.a Holbein Stitch to outline the leaf

- How to turn your embroidered leaf into a brooch with textile glue and (cork)leather

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Meet Your Teacher

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Charlotte Kan

Teacher: Hand Embroidery / Sewing ✂️

Teacher

I'm a fashion designer and an all round maker. I design easy to sew PDF sewing patterns for women and teach creative workshops, like embroidery and sewing. I love to sew, embroider, knit, but anything crafty goes.

My journey in handwork started young, but during my teens I focused mainly on drawing. I reconnected with different handwork techniques when I lost my sewing mojo for a while.

See you in class!

Charlotte

 

PS: Stay in touch and join the inner circle. Be the first to know about new projects, classes, PDF sewing patterns basically all the fun stuff. Or say hi on Instagram

 


One of my first PDF sewing patterns the Tie-Dress

 

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Transcripts

1. Gingko Brooch Embroidery Intro: in this class. We're going to embroider a small gingko leaf and turn it into a Broch will be using a chain stitch as a filling on will be working with stranded embroidery floss Welcome in my home and studio and wrote to them My name Michelle a skull and I'm profession designer. I create pdf sewing better and said, I sell online and I teach creative workshops like sewing and embroidery. Make sure you download pdf pattern from the project section so that you can stitch long during this class the better and contains a few different shapes and sizes of gingko leaves that you can use for your brush. I do think this projects more of an intermediate level, but if you're confident beginner, you should certainly give it a try, because I will explain all the steps you need to know. To finish this piece, I will go into detail on the chain stitch on the reverse chain Stitch and I will also, um, show you all my tips and tricks on how to get a beautiful radiance, feeling that sort of emulates a beautiful veins off the gingko leaf 2. Materials And Tools: embroidery needles. I'll be using a set of chill up embroidery needles small on super sharp scissors. This will be cutting very close to the stitches. You want them short and sharp. A big pair of scissors for paper and fabric, an embroidery hoop minus stunts in two meters. I like the small hoop, but of course, you can use whatever size you have lying around one skein of stranded embroidery. Flus a NATO Strother. Now this is optional, but I really like to use um Jube of Texel Clue. I've had a good experience with all these brands, but it's always a good idea to do a quick material test to see if the material and the crew are a good match. I use Frey. Check around the edges off my embroidery work. Now this step is optional, but I've had great results. Frey check sort of stiff and so fabric, making it easier to cut out, and it also phrase less a pin 30 millimeter woven fabric who wants a light medium weight fabric? I'm using calico or unbleached cotton, but I've successfully used silk and other fabrics in the past because you're covering an entire area with stitches on glue and backing it will all add to its strength, so you really don't need a thick fabric toe. Work with. You could also go for a fabric that has a color that's close your embroidery flows this way . If you have small gaps between the stitches, you won't be able to see it. And also, if you're afraid to cut very close to the stitches, you'll be able to see the fabric your embroidering on. So having a color similar to your flows could work to your advantage. Or you could pick a contrasting fabric and leave on edge around the embroidery on purpose and sort of see it as a design feature. A small piece of leather or cork leather to use us and backing. If you can try to find a piece of leather that's actually quite been because it makes it a lot easier to cut out all the small curves around the edges. An Exacto knife to make cuts in the backing for the pin. If you are working with the light fabric, you'll need a trick marker or pencil to trace a pattern. If you're working with a dark fabric, you can use a white trick marker or tracing carbon paper. Using a pen or pencil, you can easily transfer your bathroom onto lights and dark fabrics. Tracing with the carbon paper gives you very sharp lines to work with. It doesn't come off when you handle it, but it should washouts once you're finished with your piece. 3. Threading And Starting: I've been brother, the veterans with either two strands for the smaller sizes and three strands for the bigger sizes. But feel free to experiments. I will explain different methods to start your threat. Depending on how many stretch plans use. They start your threats like the rappers to the center of your skein and Pulis red. That's a so long as your under arm once measure from your fingertips to your elbow, but because we'll be folding the threat in half for the loop start, you need twice that length. And don't be tempted to use a longer threat. You have a bigger chance of notes forming and, more importantly, a friend that the friction from pulling the thread through the fabric actually weakens your threat. You can slowly pull strands from the threat, and you can pull them from the beginning or because this is quite a long threat, you can fold it in half and pull them from the middle to thread the needle. Fold your straighten, huh? Pinch the ends between your fingers and trim in an angle. Bring the eye towards the ends. That's right, your needle. The folders now at the bottom on When making her first stitch. This will create a loop at the back of your fabric you condone. Make a small stitch on. Bring your needle to the back off the fabric, both through the loop, your threats now attached to the fabric. You can start stitching now. This is a basic Luke method With later on, I'll show you how to do a variation so that you can mimic your first chain stitch. If you want to use an uneven amount of strands. That Luke method doesn't really work, so we'll be using the away nuts this time. We'll need three strengths. The length of your under arm, plus about nine centimeters extra to weave in. After you finish your threat, you start by making a temporary notes and stitch away from where you'll be embroidering the leaf. If your hope is small, like mind, you might need to make an extra stitch to get enough length, because when you finish your Fred, you cut the nuts, restructure needle, and we've in the beginning like you do with your ends your user up a little bit of extra threat. But it does give a clean start 4. Transfer The Design To Light And Dark Fabric: if you're using a life fabric that slightly share who pure fabric. To get a flat surface so drawn, place the fabric on top of your pattern and start tracing. I'm using a Blutrich marker, which is water soluble, but you could also use a normal pencil. Now, using a normal Bensel worked great, but it doesn't always wash out 100% when I'm doing it by hand. So maybe you want to check that in advance, even though we're going to cover over all the markings with stitches. Now all you have to do is take the fabric out of the hoop. Flip it's on. Put it back into who, once you're finished with the outline drawn a few of the leaves things these are going to help you get a better result once you start stitching. Now, if you want to trace a veteran until dark fabric, you can use a white trick marker again. This is what our syllable that has quite a thick tip. The fictive makes it less precise, but I thought it would be interesting to show how this works now. To get the shape onto the fabric, he can cut out the leaf that you want and place it on top off the fabric to trace. As you'll notice. There is a slight delay in the line showing up, but when they do show up, there quite brights. Another option one tracing onto dark fabrics is tracing. Carbon paper works well on dark and light fabrics. You put the waxy side onto your February later better and on top. No trace. While playing quite a bit of pressure, hold down everything and lift the corner to check if you've applied enough pressure. The lines are a little bit less visible than with the white trick marker, but they're thin and very precise, making it a great method for detailed shapes. 5. Chainstitch: to do this chain stitch. You can use the loop method to mimic the first chain. Although it's a bit thinner than the other stitches, it will blend and what you feel the leaf. To do this, you start by stitching from the right side of the room side, leaving a loop on the right side of your fabric. Now you come up a stitch length away and bring your needles through the loop. Now pull up your needle and thread away before you make the next stitch. Bring your needle back down into the same hole where he just came up and make small stitch . But leave your needle in the fabric. You can now pull your thread underneath the tip off your needle and pull it through. Now keep repeating until you reach the end of your line. Once you reach the end of your line, you need to make a small straight stitch over the top off your last loop to secure it to your fabric. You can also do this when you need to make a tight curve or a corner. Now, as you've probably noticed, the stitches have a drop like shape and you can ignore this fax and just go back and forth . Or you can either backtrack by weaving in the ends to start at the bottom off the leave again. Or you can use it reversed chain stitch and get more stitches out of your threat. Now, this time you need to start with a straight stitch and pull your needle underneath, creating a small loop. It can be a little bit hard to do this one. She, um, failed the leaf because the stitches are close together on Did. You don't want to pierce other stitches or the fabric, so sometimes it helps use the back off your needle to thread the needle on the knee cystic . 6. Holbein Stitch Or Double Running Stitch: doing an outline helps to strengthen the edges off your work and to cover the fabrics of that. There are no gaps in the outline later on because you've already created the base work on. I also like that. It gives me some time to ease into the project. I'll be using a double running stitch or holding stitch. Stitch is simple but very useful. If you want to do a detailed outline like the one under gingko leaves stitches identical on both sides of the fabric and creates a smooth line. You work it by running your needles through the fabric, creating even stitches. Once you're finished with the first round, you go over it again, filling in the gaps. 7. Stitching The leaf: in this lesson, I'm going to show you how I combine all these techniques to create the gingko leaves. I'll show my process for the outline. The filling. How high end the row. How? Use a chain Stitch the reverse chain stitch on the loop. Start in action. If you want, you can skip ahead. Just check the notes at the bottom of the video for the topics you're interested in. Starts stitching the running stitch around the edge and go back to fill in the gaps the city outline. I like to use two strands off embroidery flus, so I take one long strand and double it. I think it works well for the detailed curves and small Stan. You can endure threat by simply waving us through the back of your outlying for the filling . Again. I'm using two strands. So if separated one long strands that I've folded in half to get an even fanning out effect . I like to embroider the directional lines first, so I start at the bottom off the stock with one rove chain Stitch is close to the edge. I suggest that you do to rose closer to the edge is first and fill in the middle with an extra row if necessary. Now follow the other directional lines, and then you can fill in the space between those lines. You'll use those lines so you can later branch out, creating a nice feeling. You can start new lines from previous change or from in between previous lines. If you're working with two strengths and you salute method, you can easily fake chain stitch when you start. The first change will be a little bit thinner than the others, but it will blend in once you feel the area. If you finish one of the directional lines, you can use a reverse chain stitch to go back down, and you can endure chain next to the road or in the center of one of the existing chains. As you can see, I'm sort of cheating by using the outline to make the first of the refers change stitches instead of through a straight stitch. First to Ankara. It's now , if you're having trouble sliding your needle underneath the stitches, you can also we've your thread through the back off your work on and get down to the area where you want to work your new directional line A few stitches. Before I reached the end of the line, I tried to take moments and mentally divide the space that's left and see if it's room for two or three stitches. This helps me to get in, even look to end the nerve lying come up just before the outline makes a chain loop and do a tiny straight stitch over the outline to secure the last loop in the chain. I tried to scrape back the outgoing. A little sort of my stitch ends just over or under the outline. You don't want it to stick out too much because it will be hard. It's got out later. 8. Adding the Brooch Backing: First, you'll need to remove any markings. I'm using water to remove the trick marker. When you works dry, you can turn in rooms. I use Frey. Check around the edges. You don't need to go onto your embroidery. Work will sort of flow into the fabric enough for it to work. You can apply it straight from the bottle and make sure you're working from a wealth insulated area. You need to let it dry completely before you cut your work from the fabric. To cut out your work, you'll needs shorts and sharp scissors less a pair of steel nerves. What I do is I try to cut very close to the edge the first time around, and then I go back, trim a little bit more word or still too much fabric left that it will always be a little bit of fabric visible. But if the color of your fabric is closer, the embroidery flus won't really notice. If you're happy with the edge of your leaf, you cannot trace it onto your backing. If you're using a pencil to trace workouts that you're not smudging the edges of your leave because it can happen. Um what you do, then it's just use a towel or something to do a little bit of spot cleaning. After you've traced the shape onto the backing, cut the shape and see if it matches with your embroidered leaf. Alexa make the backing just a little bit smaller. Sort of that doesn't show if you're happy with shape of your backing, you need to make two slits to slide in the pin, - and now you're ready to glue them together. Alexe. Apply the glue directly onto the back of the embroidery work. I'm using a small piece of folded paper to spread out to glue even the and scrape off the excess the extra attention to the edges, because this is where the most wear and tear will happen. Then pressed together the leaf and the backing. Very close attentions to the sites because if you see a little bit of glue peeping out, you need to scrape it away immediately. Take your time to press the two sides together and then let them dry. Overnights 9. Final Thoughts And Tips: Now you know how to turn your embroidered gingko leaf into a Broch. I hope you're going to give it a try. Here are some final thoughts and tips. If you've never done the chain stitch, do a few test rose before you start with the entire leave, I'm sure like me I forget. So insert the pin. Don't worry. You can stick your been answered back with a small patch off leather or cork leather. Although I've show you how to do the gingko leaf, you can experiment with different shapes, but always check to see if you're been well, fits your design. If she wants to make a larger shape, you might need to thicker backing. So keep that in mind. Thank you so much for taking this class. If you've like this class, please leave a review. I'm happy to help. So let me know if you have any questions about the stitches, the materials or if you want applied a technique to a different shape. You can share your questions in a community section below the video. Now I would love to see what you're making and if you once I can get feedback on your work and progress, so make sure you share your process on the end results in a project section. And if you share your work on instagram, make sure you attack me. If you're curious about my coming classes, follow me and scale share to get an update one Saeko life.