Edit photos faster by creating actions | Heikki Mitikka | Skillshare

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Edit photos faster by creating actions

teacher avatar Heikki Mitikka

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

6 Lessons (22m)
    • 1. Introduction

      0:14
    • 2. Adobe Bridge and lighting

      1:40
    • 3. Adobe Camera Raw and presets

      8:32
    • 4. Creating your first action in Adobe Photoshop for contrast

      3:39
    • 5. Actions for color, sharpening and saving the image

      6:01
    • 6. Using the actions and finished photos

      2:23
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About This Class

I will teach you my workflow on how to manage photos in Adobe Bridge and edit them in Adobe Camera Raw and Adobe Photoshop creating actions along the way.

I will walk you trough all the steps involved in getting the photo looking like this:

572c903b.jpg

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi, my name is hey key and I'm a photographer based in Helsinki, Finland. And this is my studio. And today I'm going to show you how to manage your photos and bridge, edit them faster enroll and Photoshop. 2. Adobe Bridge and lighting: So I have bridge open here and I have P photos from a photo shoot that I did during the summer. Let me first explain how a pro sliding this photo. Sorry, it was quite like evening time when we took this photo to sun was setting. And a right side here. I kinda wanted to have the same feeling that the light was coming from the sun. So I had like my big bulk right outside this frame with my codex 300. And you just kinda low-power TO that. You can't really see that it's lighting the photo icon, it looks like it's coming from the sun. So that was my, unlike the idea to start. And it's only one light here and everything else is just natural light. Basically, when I start with any photo or any photos or photo assistance, I usually bring them all into my computer, into a folder. And note left-hand side, there's the rating system, Seibel, true? Like all the photos. I write them. And then I know like what photos I want to keep or what photos I want to send to the client. 3. Adobe Camera Raw and presets: Today we're gonna just focus on one pole at 0. And I'm going to show you my workflow on how I use it to do, do the things that I do. So let's just open this one photo by right-clicking on Open in Camera Roll. And for me the reason that I use camera roll instead of Lightroom is that just like breach and roll better than Lightroom? I've had so many problems before. We'd Lightroom. It being like really slow my computer. So breach is like relatively light. Always camera roll. And you can do basically all the things here that you can do in Lightroom. And if you open multiple photos day, come here to the left. Let me show you by just like open least tree. And they will be here. So on the right-hand side there's like the basic settings. I'm curves and ethos and so on. So what I usually do is I either have a preset that I start with or I to start with. Like blank canvas, undo, go over all of these settings. Just going to show you like one of the presets that I did earlier. If you click this three dots here and Load Settings, then the basic altered to what's the one that I did. You can readjust the settings, then gets lost a little bit too yellow. And with this photo, I want to do the feeling of the Sun Run assigning from the right. So what I did was I went to did the pill. And I have one here. And I use like an eraser tool to erase this part. So that only affects this and this. I'm going to show you what it does. Take it away on to add some more yellow, especially here. And then I have an adjustment brush here to add a little bit more exposure back the center of the image. And if I go back to the basic tab, you see a temperature you obtained and all the other settings usually bring my highlights all the way down because the other settings are affecting my highlights. So that's why I need to keep them like minus 100. This is just basically trial and error. You just have to go in and start changing the settings to get what you really want. I can make this asset preset available on my website. So you can download it there for free. And then you can try yourself. Yeah, then we have some Kurtz, different color curves as well. Little bit of noise reduction on sharpening and color noise reduction. I think these are like the basic settings and a little bit off. Most production color mixer you have all the colors. This is really where you can go into detail of changing the color Sydney or photo, like really changing the hue, like the yellows from the background. We have to be careful because it can also change your skin tones. What I'm usually looking, skin tones first and then everything else. We go second and fix these moths easier than I can be. The skin tone, color creating all. So you're gonna go into highlights, meet those shadows here, and choose like what color is in your whatever area. Photos. And geometry depends on. I don't really use this at all. Optics. I'll use this will show pick up a 50 millimeter usr. As the camera, I'm going to say cities to Oregon, vignette them all sorts of D printing things here. In the effects tab. I'll usually use grade around 17 percent. It's like sharpness and remoteness, did a photo and calibration. And then you can tennis your setosa and red primaries and green primaries and blue primaries and all that. And really like mess around with this. It depends on what kind of mode do you want? What do you want your colors to be? Not one folder will be the same, so you have to, like always go in here and change the settings according to the specific photo that you have. That's why I never believed like presets work that well because people have different lighting and different times of day and all sorts of things. So you really have to tweak the settings and to make them work on your own. But let's say that I'm happy with this. And then think there was one more adjustment. Yeah, that was adjustment here. Just add it like more yellow middle right side of the image. Also. The graduated filter added the right. Like here. I could have used this as well, just to paint here, paint here and the band here. I chose to do, we'd like this. And then if I want to save this as a base, just go into settings. And now that I have like local adjustments here, click this so that all of these will transfer in, do the other photos as well. And then I can name this Test 1. Let's click done and not open it. I can see side-by-side what it does. Like a huge shape, Prince, depends on what more do you want? But let's open this one. I'm go here. Load Settings, test1. So now we have all of these filters applied as well. Let's open the original one and click Open here. Then we can open it in Photoshop. 4. Creating your first action in Adobe Photoshop for contrast: So now that we are in Photoshop, there's like few things that I usually do. I start to be unique collections, color effects Pro. If you don't have Nick collection, you're going to still get it for free. Like the older versus I think if you Google like any collection, you can get it from from their site. Down on links. We can't really updated, I guess. But I use this mostly like the color of X Pro, the solopreneur output thing. I will show you later. So what I do here, normally I have like accents that I use. I have few that I always see this and then I kinda make nuance as I go. I we could like make a folder here, test folder. With this plus icon, you can create a new new Axin. So let's create one and call this trust. Now it's recording so well we want to do is go to Filter and it collects in color Pro. And I already have pro contrast here, but if you cannot see it, you have to go here to the left side and select pro contrast. I usually try to highlights to around 20 percent here. This is did a taste. So you have to think like, what do you want like, correct? Correct. Color cast isn't always correct because it depends on what you wanna do with your photo. It might take a little bit of that yellow also be run 16. And then we add some contrast, dynamic trust as well. And I'll see before and after. And click. Okay. It's still recording. So now I want to go to my background layer. Flattened image, then opted up. I want to stop playing. So null, it recorded the color F X Pro and adopting the image. So when we make new actions, it always plot them CMHC between. So it will be easier to run multiple Xs in a row. So now we have that done. Next up would be some color adjustments. I think I use it. Don't do anything for the skin. If it doesn't need any name. In this case, it doesn't really need anything. So we're going to leave that as is. 5. Actions for color, sharpening and saving the image: So let's create another oxygen. Let's call it color. Let's go to here, solid color, adjustment layers down here. And maybe like a beige color, I usually use like beige. And then set this to multiply and change it here. Hey, deduce 0 and then drag it to the right. Maybe around 15. Adds a little bit of like mood. It a photo. And then background, color action. Next, what we're gonna do is blank layer. We could record this as an axon as well, but I don't want to do it now. Just going to show you another way to kinda like tie in the colors. Ballistic, an eyedropper tool, select like a color from skin. Maybe something like this. Paint bucket tool. Feel the whole image a little bit. And yeah, we can use this also to dark and a bit. Yeah, I just use Control C to E. But do you have multiple layers and you want to plot than them? We're going to use Control C and E, just flatten everything. So useful. Keyboard shortcut to have. Normally I would have recorded that Senator like color two or something like that. So then we can get like the exact same thing for the other photos. Next up, we're going to do another box and let's call this the store. It's recording. We'll go to Filter, collection, output sharpener. And this is my favorite plugging to use. Like a different, I have this saved up, add up the sharpening at 20, then d minus 2 and 8, 25, 36. But it depends on like what, What do you want? You can copy these settings or just try something else. And let's click. Okay. Now see before and after. Kindness, Moody's like skin. It looks better with this. Everything is torpor. You can use it like multiple times if you want. Now let's click Background layer, flattened image again. Stop this one. Now we have disheartening here. And I think that's about it. Then we just need to resize it and save the photo. So I don't want to create a new resizing Axin. So what I'm gonna do is get my axe and from here, and use this one. I'm going to put this on my website as well. Just image size to 2048 pixels. And that's run it. It'll just put it into like correct social media sites. I used a 2048 for all my photos. I need two works really well. Now that we have left is saving the gametes. So what I do is I use it to create a Save Image and opens the Save for Web panel. What do we have here as a JPEG? This to max optimized quality, $100 convert to sRGB. These are already here because we resize state before. And we can just save. And then desktop are done. 6. Using the actions and finished photos: So now we have all of these. We could open a new photo. I'm going to show you how it goes. So let's open this one right here. We already did the settings on these ones. I don't need to do it again, but if you want even go on here and Load Settings and then load the settings that you had. And open. In Photoshop. We can select all of these on just click the Run button here, place an X on. It should do automatic for you. So if you have multiple photos and you just want to get all the exact same settings in Photoshop. Whatever you're doing here, just create access along the way. I need you to first photo and then just enjoy the rest of the time. So let's click this. And here we have the first photo. We have the second photo. Pretty much the same. I did use an under like solid color layer on this one, so it's a little bit darker. I think. It's pretty identical in color. If you want to follow me on Instagram, you can follow me at Thrones color photo there, or you can check my website, also radical or photo.com to see more of my photos. So yeah, that's it for this tutorial. I hope you learned something new out of this.