Edit on iPad: Batch Photo Editing in Darkroom | Ben Nielsen | Skillshare

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Edit on iPad: Batch Photo Editing in Darkroom

teacher avatar Ben Nielsen, Good design is the beginning of learning

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

9 Lessons (28m)
    • 1. Introduction

    • 2. Project

    • 3. Darkroom Tour

    • 4. Darkroom Adjustments Panel

    • 5. Curves Panel

    • 6. Color Adjustments

    • 7. Copying Adjustments

    • 8. Exporting

    • 9. Bonus More Editing Examples

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About This Class

The iPad is a powerful machine for editing RAW photos. Batch processing these images can speed up your workflow considerably. But Lightroom in an expensive app requiring a monthly subscription. Darkroom on the other hand is free for basic features and costs just $10 to unlock advanced features. 

In this class we will explore how to use Darkroom on your iPad to batch process your RAW photos and get incredible results no matter where you are. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Ben Nielsen

Good design is the beginning of learning


I am passionate about good design and good teaching. I believe that anyone can learn simple design principles and tools that can help them create content that is both beautiful and functional.


Background: I am a media designer and librarian. My masters degree is in instructional design with an emphasis on informal learning.


Motto: Good design is the beginning of learning.

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1. Introduction: Okay, so this is going to be a little bit different than some of my other courses. And I apologize if the audio on this is a lot worse. I'm in Montana and I didn't bring my regular microphone with me, But I am just in love with the beauty that's all around me here that I wanted to take some photographs and I wanted to share with you guys how I ended those raw photos and how I batch process them on my iPad while I'm traveling. So we're gonna be talking about dark room. It's an app that is a lot like light room from Adobe, but it's a lot less expensive. It's free to download and then just $10 to be it. All of the features and you can use on your iPad. I think it works in a lot of ways better than adobes light room mobile version on. So I want to share that with you guys. So forgive me if this is a little bit rougher, because I am doing this while I'm out and traveling. But I think this is gonna be fun for you guys to kind of see what I do when I am doing photography, So I'm going to shoot some of this beautiful scenery around me, and then we're gonna add it on the iPad so the audio might not be as perfect and the video might not be as crisp and clean because I will be doing this off from the road. But I think that's going to make it a lot of fun for you guys to kind of see this. And in this landscape around me, just gorgeous. I mean, it's just amazing to be out here in Montana, So we are going to be running through these photos that I'm taking out here, and we're going between a batch raw processing on the road, on the iPad, so should be a lot of fun. 2. Project: so the products were. This course is for you to go ahead and download dark room. Now I will be using all of the page four features a lot of the features you don't have to pay for. But some of them, like curves and color adjustments and dark rooms, custom filters you do have to pay for, said That's a $10 in APP purchase. But you can go ahead and download dark room, and you can still do a lot of the things that I'll be doing. Even if you don't want pay because you can use the trial, you just won't be able to export them. But the product for this court, of course, you will need to export your photos, so if you do decide you like it, you can pay for it. Or you can just use the free version. But I want you to upload at least five photos. So these feelings five that you have Batch edited so that you have taking the edits from one planet to another, and you couldn't just further after you've applied those edits. But I want you to have five batch edited photos, at least for your product for this course. So once we're done with this class, go ahead and edit one of the photos, then copy the edits to the other photos and make your tweaks to them and then go ahead and upload at least five of those photos to the Project gallery so that we can all see what you've done. And it can be really helpful if you also upload your before photos so that we can see how far you were able to come with your editing process in dark room. So go ahead and do that and put those in the product file for the course. That will really be helpful to all of us that you should take those photos in raw, because that is the best way to get the best quality out of your photos. So if you have a camera that can take raw where you have an app on your phone that can take raw, you can use that and then go ahead, bring those in the dark room, edit them and then upload them, and we'll take a look at them together. In the next video, we'll start actually looking at the dark room app and getting into its features 3. Darkroom Tour: Okay, we're going to go ahead, and we are going to open up dark room. So if you haven't downloaded, go ahead and download it from the APP store and were immediately taken into Are all photos model? So one of the nice things about drug from is it looks directly into your photos on your iPad so you don't have to import them. That's when the problems with light room is. You have to import all of your photos a second time to get them into light room. And you have to do that individually, which takes a long time and in dark room you don't have to do that. So it's much easier to just access your photos in dark room and edit them at the very top left. We have the Settings icon, which will let us suggest various sittings here in dark room, and then we have access to all of our albums along the left top right? There's a batch icon, which will let you select different photos and then bring up the menu along the bottom to make batch adjustments to them. We'll be doing that in a future video, but for now we're going, Go ahead And we are going to click in to our first photo of this mountain here. First thing you might notice is where it says raw in the top left. That means we're working on the raw photo. This photo was taken in Rob Plus J peg so we can also access the J peg file if we want you . But we want edit in raw and most of the time I will be shooting just in raw and then exporting a J peg from that on the left hand menu of the first thing we have is the back arrow to get back to the all photo viewer. And then we have a little three squares and a narrow chap that would just open a bar. Filmstrip taps so that we can see all of the photos in our all photos folder as well. So that leads us quickly move between them without having to go back each time. Below that, we have the heart icon which will favorite a photo and then below that we have the menu icon which will open up the menu so we can copier at its reset our edit and that man. You can also be accessed just by holding on each individual photo. That's great if you want to copy from one photo to another, then we have the trash can icon, which will delete the photo. And then we have the undo and redo arrows as well as the before and after I conserve, see, before and after we can hold on that icon or we can just hold on the photo as well. We haven't really made any adjustments to this photo, so we can't see any changes right now. But we will be doing that throughout these videos. On the right hand menu, we have the export arrow, so that's where we get our export options for just an individual photo. We'll go ahead and hit the X there. We'll be doing that in the last video in the course. Next, we have the transform panel, which will allow us to adjust things like the rotation, the crop, the aspect ratio of the photo. The next panel is Thief Filters panel, so I'm using the paid version of Dark Room here, which costs $10 to unlock all the features. Some of these filters are premium filters so you won't have access to exporting with them if you haven't paid for it. But you can look at them and see if you like them, and we will see other paid features as we go along here. But you can always try the paid features out before you buy. But I do think that $10 is a great deal to get all the features of this powerful app. Next, we have the adjustments panel. This will allow you to adjust the exposure, and the white balance and different parts of the photo will be doing that in the next video down below that we have the curves adjustment panel and curves is a really powerful way to handle photos. We won't be diving really deep into curves in this course. We might be doing that in a future course, but we will use the curves a little bit, and that's a paid feature and one that is really worth paying for. And then the next panel is also a paid feature. This is the color panel. This will allow us to adjust individual color channels there, Hugh there saturation and their luminous or brightness, and then the next panels, one that I really don't use. This is a frame panel, and I don't really add frames to my photos. But if that's something interests you, you might look into it below that. We have the history panel, which will allow us to see all of the different adjustments that we've made to the picture and jump back to any point in time there and then below that, we have the information panel, which shows us all the metadata about our photo so you can see, like this photos really large. Its size is 33 megabytes. That's because it's a raw file. Raw photos do tend to take up about 10 times the space of J pegs, so we expect it to be pretty large here, and we can see all the different settings that were used when this picture was taken. So that's a useful panel for checking on what things were like when you took the photo. So that's it for the interface. In the next video, we'll start working on adjustments here 4. Darkroom Adjustments Panel: the first will try adjusting the highlights so you can see what's happening there, and we're looking at the clouds here to see what's happening. As we drag him down, you can see that it's getting darker, but it's really not recovering details, just kind of graying the pixels. And so I don't love that. If we double top of slider, it will return to zero, which is a useful tip to know. So I like to just the exposure first. Then I'll use the shadows more to kind of bring things up, so I often will drag the sliders all the way down to see what they're affecting. What's happening? One of the things you'll find is that when using dark room, you just can't recover as much in the highlights and shadows as you could in light room. If you're used to using that so sometimes because I do still have access to light room, I will make adjustments there in light room as well if I have a really blown out or really dark photo. But this work photos actually shot pretty good. The other nice thing is you have this brightness lighter and brightness deals only with the mid tones in the image rather than the entire image. So even if you brought the exposure down to recover things, you can raise the brightness to brighten up the whole image. It's all Brian that a little bit. I'm going to try and adjust my shadows just to see what I'm getting. I'll raise them slightly and then I'll boost my contrast. Contrast makes the darker parts of an image darker and the brighter parts a little bit brighter. So I don't want to lose what I've recovered. But I do want to add just a little contrast there now. One thing that we haven't touched yet and which is a new feature in dark room are the whites and the blacks and the whites and the blacks are really useful. So you can see the History ram, which is also in your feature in direct room at the top, and you can see that it's really off to the left quite a bit. The white slider will actually make the lighter parts of the image whiter until they get white and the history and will show us if we start clipping these. I'm just going to raise thes, and you can see in the history moment that they're going over. If I slide all the way to the right, you'll see we start clipping, all right. But I don't want to make this too bright because this was shot in your sunset. I'm going raise those whites a little bit and then I'm going to bring my blacks down a little bit. You can see I'm start clipping here, clipping the color first and then clipping the black. You can see the blue flash on the screen shows where the black is clipping. I don't want to clip too badly. No, if we want to see what it looks like before, remember, we can hold on the image. There's what it was like before, and there's what it's like now. So I think I do want it to be a little bit brighter, so I'll go ahead out, raise the whites up a bit more. Bit contrast there. All right, then we have saturation and vibrance below that, and saturation will raise. All the colors of vibrance will raise the saturation of the colors in the mid tones, So generally I use vibrance, but let's just look and see what happens. Of course, if we lower them, we can go black and white so you can see everything starts coming out really strong. If we go all the way up, we would not go all the way up. And if we go down all the way out now, Vibrance is more subtle and doesn't get rid of all the color or bring out all the colors. So I'm just going raised vibrance up to about 10 1 great tip is if you tap on a slider on the left or right, it will go up by one, and that's really useful. And then remember, in the middle in the circle, you can double tap to bring it back to zero. All right, so next we have white bounce controls, temperature and tent. So you can see this picture is kind of warm here, and it was pretty warm. If I drag it all the way down to the blues, it gets really cool. But it was a pretty warm flutter to begin with, so I'm happy with it being around 10 here. If I go all the way out, it's just too much around 10 more even close to 15. I think it's good. The tent will adjust the balance between green and magenta, so you can see if I go left, it gets very magenta. If it goes right, it gets very green. This image skews green, so I'm just going to give it a little adjustment towards Magenta. All right, then we have the fade so fading will just kind of push everything in the history into the middle. I don't really want any feet on this. And then you have grain, which will add some noise to your photo. Kind of give it a green feel one of you that here and then we have been yet which will darken up the corners of the photos, bringing it in from the edges down to the middle. I will normally add a little Vigna, especially if I'm doing Portrait's. They can be helpful in landscapes as well. I'm not loving it on this foot of those, so I'm gonna leave it off, and then sharpness, sharpness will bring out the edges of the photos. I generally like to add a little bit of sharpness and direct room because they feel like otherwise it just gets a little bit mushy, so I will add a little bit. Not too much. Not so It looks fake just a little bit. You can always a man with a two finger pinch and see how things they're looking. Darkroom does tend to look a little softer in the app than it actually does on export. I don't know why that is. That's just something to be aware of. And then last here in the adjustments panel, we have the highlights and the shadows. So if you've heard of, like doing a teal orange effect, this is where you would do that so we can add orange tour highlights. You can see the color slider at the bottom, and we're just going to drag the amount all the way to the right to see what's happening. You can see it gets very orange, and we can adjust what color we're looking at. There. Can I say Orange is very popular in the highlights, but you really want to be more settled in that you just want to give it a little bit, and then the shadows we're going dragged down to kind of a teal. Remember, you can tap on the left or right to move by one. And then we could drag the amount to see what's happening there. Okay, so we want that to be a little bit more bluish, just going drag up and then just a subtle nous in the shadows. You like seven? All right, then we'll check the before and after by holding on the photo four and after. That's looking much better, but I think I want to. You just bring my exposure back up a little bit. Just tap there a few times. The adjustments panel is really to get your photo to its baseline, where it should be, and then a lot of the artistic stuff we will do in the curves and in the colors. So in the next video, we'll start talking about. 5. Curves Panel: Ah, all right. So next we're going to pop into the curves panel, and what the curves does is it divides things into blacks, mid tones and whites. And in between the blacksmith tones and the whites, you have the shadows and the highlights and some curves. Sliders will let you place your own points. But in dark room, you just have the five points that it gives you on each of those levels. And then you can adjust those up or down. What we want to do is just add a slight s curve to this, so it doesn't have to be much. And just like the sliders, you can tap the above or the below to do these by one. So I'm going to start with my shadows. I'm just going to tap two or three times to bring my shadows down. This is going to give us what we call a medium contrast curve and then went up above on my brights just a couple of times to raise those up. And then I like to raise my black slightly, should just give it a little fading in the shadows, which I think just makes it look a little bit better and then the same thing on my whites. I'll just lowered those, all right. I don't want to jump too far in two curves in these videos because this is a basis class focused on batch editing. But you can make adjustments to the red, the green and the blue channels, and that will help you to adjust the scion, the magenta and the yellow as well. And that's where you can do more artistic things. So maybe some point in the future, I will do a course on using curves to get film like looks to your photos. But right now we're just going to use this medium contrast curve and go from there, and in the next video, we'll take a short look at the Colors panel. 6. Color Adjustments: ah switched to a different picture here to show you the color sliders because I think this picture work better to illustrate what we're talking about. So the color sliders allow you to select different color ranges and then adjust those to either left or right on the color scale and adjust their saturation and luminous. So this can give you really fine tune controls over not the whole image but specific color ranges that you want to deal with. So a great example of this is skin tones, which is why we're doing this with a picture with a subject in it, so that you can see the way that it affect. Skin terms tend to fall into the red and range area, but sometimes they don't show up very well, and so this is a good place to adjust them. This works out much better if there isn't a lot of other reds and oranges in your picture, because that could make it difficult to adjust just the skin tone. But basically, if you take that range and then you can adjust it so you'll watch her face as I adjust this huse later they go orange. You can see, it becomes a lot more pale. And as I go towards magenta, you can see it become a lot more pink, and obviously you would never push a skin tone so far. Then you could see what happens if I leave the hue alone and just adjust the saturation, can see her face, come out a lot more reddish, and then look at Lou Minutes. Do you want to make subtle adjustments here? Just bring a little bit of color into her face. And if we go to the I at the top, we can turn off just the color adjustments so it looked like before and then after so you can see the moose is becoming very red as well. But we're getting a lot more natural. Look in her skin, which is really important, just just that slightly. So that's a pretty good fix that you could do with the color sliders. The next one that I want to show you is the yellows. So a lot of times thinks that you would think, or green like trees and grass will come out as being very yellow, and so a lot of times you'll want to just those to the more green side of things so that they look better so you can see that the grass is becoming much more green here. Of course, if we push it too far, it just looks ridiculous and fake. And if we want to look dead, we can push it all the way over to the orange. A lot of times we just need to bring out a little saturation. Just move it slightly to the green. Hold down on the eyeball again at the top of the panel. You can see the difference is that we're making there. Okay, so that's how you use the color sliders to make fine tuned adjustments to your photos. And remember to you keep those relatively small like you can push them all the way up to see what's happening, but then keep the actual adjustments pretty small in your photo. All right. In the next video, we'll go ahead and we will talk about how to copy adjustments to another 7. Copying Adjustments: thin this video. We want to talk about copying adjustments from one floor to another because the benefit of doing batch raw processing is you don't have to spend a ton of time on each photo. If you take photos in the same light and same location, you can easily copy those to another photo. So first we're just going to you copy toe one photo, and then we're going to show how to batch copy to a bunch of photos. So to do it to just one photo, we're just going to take this first photo that we're working on and we're going to open up our photo picker on the side and we're going to go ahead and tap on our many, which is the three dots and we choose copy edits. Then we'll go to the next photo tap on the menu again, and she was paced at it. And so you can see that now. Those two photos match they were taking same time, same lighting, and so most of the adjustments that we want to do the one we also want to do to the other. We could still make adjustments. We can still open our adjustment panel and make changes there. But we've already saved ourselves a lot of work by applying those adjustments. In the next video, let's talk about doing it to a batch of 8. Exporting: Alright, so now we want to go ahead and do a batch export. But before we do that, we want to check our export settings. So let's go ahead and tap on the settings. Wheel the top left. This will pull up our settings menu, and we want to go to export options, and then we can see we can choose our file format, and it supports most of the common file formats. J. Peg 80% is the lowest resolution image that you can export from dark room and for a lot of things that is going to be more than enough resolution. If you're going to post it on instagram, put it up on a block sent in an email, shoot it off in a text. J pay 80% will be more than enough resolution for that. But if you're going to want to print thes photos, you took them with a high resolution camera and you want to be able to print them large. You will want to choose the Jay Peak 100%. Of course, if you're going to take it into a program like Photoshopped later, you can choose Tiff. The H E I f format is Apple's format, so that's what they are taking photos. And now it hasn't caught on a lot, and you can see they explain that in the bottom. What h e. I f is Eventually a GF will probably become the common file format. So you can do that is just Sometimes you won't be ableto open it in other applications. So for now, J. Peg is a safe way to go scroll down here and here says Save Exports to Dark Room album. I like to choose that one because I want them to go into the darkroom album and then I can take them to wherever I'm going to store them in the cloud. I happen to use Amazon Drive. Currently Dark Room doesn't support batch export to Amazon drive, so I do them into a drug from album on my iPad first, and then I go into photos and upload them to Amazon drive. Okay, so that is set. Now we're going to go ahead and select batch again, and I'm going to choose the same photos and then in the bottom menu on the right side, I choose export. Then you can choose to modify the original Save a copy for export to other APS. This will allow you to do things like put that right on the Instagram or Dropbox, it says. But unfortunately, it doesn't support going into Amazon drive yet, so I'm just going to choose. Save a copy. If you're using Dropbox for your photo management, you could choose export directly to another app. I'll just show you what that looks like here. It always has to save before it does it. So it's just modifying all those flowers, getting them ready to go, which may take a minute. All right, so here you have all of your regular sharing options and you can see it says Amazon Drive there. But if you go there, it won't let you upload multiple at a time into your folder. So it's just easier for me to do it from photos. But you might have something else that you would upload to some other service that would probably work better from here so you can go ahead and do that. I like to just go ahead and save them into the dark room album, so we're gonna go ahead and instead of doing exports. Other APS we're just going to do save a copy. We don't modify the original because we still want the original to remain a raw file that we can edit later. So we're just going to save a copy and then it was going to go ahead and it's going to go save it. It has to do the same process that we saw when we were going to export. So same thing, it's just going to save it. And then it will go ahead, and it will put it into an album that is on our ipads that has all of these photos as J picks. Okay, so then that is finished. And if we go into photos, we can actually see those. So here in the Dark Room album, you can see that all of those four words have come in with their edits so often. I'll just go ahead and export these all to Amazon Drive, and then I'll delete them out of the dark Room album. And then the Doctor album just kind of stores the photos that I need to be able to upload. Let's Jim back, your doctor. That basically finishes up this course on batch editing photos in dark room. I'm going to do a couple more videos of me working on these photos so that you can see more about how I work on them. But please go ahead and at at your own photos and upload at least five of them to show us how you edited them in the class project file. We love to be able to see the projects from the students so that we can all learn and grow together. And if you have any questions, please put those in the comment section for this course. I'm happy to answer any questions that I can remember. I have other courses on creative app on the iPad. So go ahead and check those out as well. If you don't mind leaving a review on this class, that helps other people to find this class and you know what you thought of it. Thanks so much. And I'll see you in the next 9. Bonus More Editing Examples: way, Theo.