Edit Photographs With Photoshop & Lightroom: Step-by-Step Process for Fashion & Portrait Photography | Claire Petersen | Skillshare

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Edit Photographs With Photoshop & Lightroom: Step-by-Step Process for Fashion & Portrait Photography

teacher avatar Claire Petersen, Fashion & Influencer Photographer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

9 Lessons (37m)
    • 1. Let's Begin: Introduction

    • 2. What is the Vibe?

    • 3. Lightroom: Basic Edits

    • 4. Lightroom: Colour Grading

    • 5. Lightroom: Presets and Exporting

    • 6. Photoshop: Retouching

    • 7. Photoshop: Colour Grading

    • 8. Photoshop: Sharpening and Saving

    • 9. Conclusion & Class Project

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About This Class

You’ve taken some great photographs of a beautiful model, but now what? Take your photography skills to the next level by learning how to edit like a pro, using Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom.

You'll learn how to:

  • Use both Lightroom and Photoshop to ensure your final image is the best it can be
  • Do basic edits to RAW or JPEG photos in Lightroom including lens correction, sharpening, and adding grain and vignetting
  • Tweak the exposure, white balance, and colour grade your image in Lightroom
  • Retouch the skin in Photoshop and remove blemishes, with 'ethical editing' in mind
  • Take your photos to the next level with additional colour grading in Photoshop
  • Sharpen your image in Photoshop and save a high quality JPEG
  • Improve your workflow, making the process as smooth as possible

If you feel like your photography is lacking a little something and you're not wow-ed by your final image, this class is for you.

Or perhaps you're happy with your final edits but it takes hours to arrive at the finished piece... watch these classes to see how a professional photographer works and see how to streamline your workflow.

Suitable for beginners through to experienced photographers.

Meet Your Teacher

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Claire Petersen

Fashion & Influencer Photographer



I'm Claire, a photographer, visual artist, and Instagram addict. Nice to meet you!

New York City was where I first started taking photography seriously, and realised it was a viable career option. There, I built a niche for myself doing photo shoots for Irish bloggers, and worked with influencers as big as Erika Fox (@retroflame).

Now I'm back in Ireland, and continuing to build my career as a fashion and lifestyle photographer. As I build my portfolio and skills I'll be sharing what I learn along the way, and I would love for you to follow along!


"Claire's class has given me a lot more ideas and I have found out about stuff I had no idea about."

... See full profile

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1. Let's Begin: Introduction: Hi, I'm Claire. I'm a fashion on portrait photographer based in Berlin. On this clause is going to be about how I edit my photographs from start to finish using a combination off the light room and Photoshopped. Over the years, I've developed a system for editing photographs on I've developed my style on skills. I'm gonna be sharing that with you today. In this class, you'll need to have access to light room on Adobe Photo Shop on. You can get a free trial off this on their website. This classes for pretty much everyone who wants to get into photography. You don't have to have a lot of experience. It might help if you're a little bit familiar with photo shop in light room, but I will be showing step by step how I do everything. So if you are starting from absolutely nothing, then that's completely fine, too. On if you have a little bit more experience than you probably be able to follow along a bit quicker. But even if you're a bit more experienced, I am hoping that I'll be able to show some tips and tricks that you might never have heard of before so definitely do keep watching. Feel free to check out my instagram shot by Claire P. Or my portfolio. Claire Peterson dot com. There you'll be able to see my style and how I edit photos. And if that looks like something you want to learn, then definitely do watch these classes. And now, if you're ready, let's jump into the first lesson. 2. What is the Vibe?: most of these classes are gonna be step by step walking you through how to do the edits with screen recordings on Light Room and Photoshopped. However, before we do that, I did just want to make a quick note and say that before you edit your photo, you do wanna have a little think about what is the concept or what is the overall mood or vibe that you want the photographed have in the end. So this will help you not just make completely random edits in photo shop in light room, you'll have a little bit of an idea off where you want the photo to look in. The end on, of course, doesn't mean that you can't experiment in the edging stage, but it does this give you a little bit of direction when you're editing. So in some cases it's really obvious what feeling your photograph should evoke. For instance, maybe did a Halloween photo shoot, so you want the final image to be dark and moody and a little bit scary. But a lot of times it's not so obvious. So in those cases you should ask, What do you on the audience to feel when they look at this photo, say someone picks up a magazine. They opened up on your images of the first thing they see. What feeling should you be evoking with this image? So once you thought off a feeling or a range of feelings that you want to evoke, then you're gonna be much more focused when editing and you're gonna know what different tips and tricks that you should be applying. But it also means that you are less likely to over edit the photo. For instance, this is the photo editing in this class on. This is the final result. So as you can see, I wanted to have a bit of a vintage vibe. So it has kind of muted colors on do a little bit of grain. But my personal after a missile is usually quite bright in a warm. So that's why it's also not too dark and gloomy on DSO. Of course, your own personal editing style is gonna feed into their final result, even if you are trying to evoke a feeling with the photograph. So with that in mind, let's get into the first lesson, and we're going to start by working in library 3. Lightroom: Basic Edits: Okay, so let's begin editing. So I would start with light room. Edits thes are worried to my basic edits on. Then, later on, I'm gonna open up photo shop and do some Maurin depth color grading. But for now, let's start with light room. So I'm gonna start from the very beginning, which is, of course, importing. Ah, photo to edit. This is a light room interface. So you go up to the top here and you go file import photos, videos on this is going to open up your finder where you can go in and choose the photos that you liked at it. So here I have two photos that I'm gonna add it on. You can select which ones you want on. Then, of course, you go to import. So that's how you bring photos into light room to begin editing them. And you can see along the left here that there are all these other photos that I have edited in the past. But we're gonna go to develop now to start editing. So I like to clear away the excess things by clicking the little triangle on the side to hide these. So I can see the image as big as my screen is. And now let's get into the editing. So I start with my edits, doing like lens correction on all those kind of basic edits you can see on the right hand side here. This way you can start editing things, and so I go down. First toe lens correction on my tick enable profile corrections because I shut with a 35 mil lens on this. Quite a lot of distortion in this lens. So if you shot in raw, which I would recommend that you always suited more, you can click this little button here, and it should automatically know the lens profile and then apply the lens correction for you. So that's what I'm doing here. So it's taken away some of the distortion off the image, and I also click the remove chromatic aberration that's not ready too much of an issue in this photo. It's where there's like high contrast areas where the focus is a quite right and you get colors where they shouldn't be. But I see no harm in taking it, so I usually just take it anyway, so it will fix the issue of the issues there. Or if not, it won't make a difference to the photo. So those the two things I do in the lens correction area so enable profile corrections and make sure that it's a make and model of your lens and remove chromatic aberration, which deals with color fringing that might be in the image. So next, what I'll do is go down to transform on. He could do some manual corrections to the plane that you have a shot on, so I would sometimes tweak vertical on the horizontal slightly. Of course, it's important not to go overboard with this. You are tweaking someone's face here, so you don't want to push this to a speck stream. But it's also very useful. If you're shooting buildings architecture, then of course, the lines are really important. And so that's where this comes and really useful. But it can also help in poor traits like this one on. You can take the constrain crop to make sure that you don't get any off the white border around and make sure you're only getting the actual image in the crop. And so you see here that there's this switch button to the left of the title of the area and on you can click that to show what changes you've made in that section. And then, of course, another basic edit is the crop, so I don't need to do too much here. But what I have done is made sure that my eyes are falling on the line off the top third. Basically, I'm just following the rules of thirds here, and I'm gonna make that crop. That's another basic edit, of course, that you should do when you're editing, make sure the crop is how you like it on then, finally, with basic edits, I would go to sharpening. So I always sharp into the eyes. Click the square and then click to the part of the image that you want to sharpen to to get this detailed focus Because, of course, were sharpening. You need to be quite assumed it. Do you look at that box there now with my eye. That's where you look when you're shopping to make sure that you get the right amount sharpening, and you can also, of course, Zuman. I usually cranked the shopping up quite a bit, but I also do it later on in photo shop, and sometimes I had a little bit of lieutenants. It just takes the edge away. But don't go overboard of that because that you could just make it look out of focus and then the final part off. This is where I go down to the effects. You can add something getting if you'd like. I don't usually go for it on and definitely try not to go overboard with the netting on the same grain. Don't go overboard, but I do add some grain to some photos on in this photo. I'm kind of going for a quota of slight vintage feel. So I'm adding a little bit of grain here, and those are the basic edits you can see it's starting to make a difference, but there is a lot more to do. These were the base get is, and next wouldn't go into a light room color grading 4. Lightroom: Colour Grading: Okay, so we've done some basic head. It's in light room. So now it's time to get into the color grading in light room. And I always do some basic color grading in light room first. And then later on, when I'm in photo shop, all do some more advanced color grading. But for now, let's start doing some basics. So of course, we'll start off with the white balance. So this depends on the kind of look you're going for. I'm pretty happy with the white bones here, but I am going to knock up the tent slightly. So just to make it slightly more pinker on, remember all these tweaks that were making it depends on the vibe of the photo that you want. So if you want something really dark and gloomy, then maybe you'll dark in the shadows. Or if you want something a bit more late than you or maybe bright in the shadows and bright in the highlights. Even so, it really depends on the look you're gonna go for. I, um, lowering the highlights here a little bit on upping with shadows a little bit, cause I do want a fairly bright photo animals are gonna bring down the blacks, which is what I do to add a little bit of contrast on. Just add a little bit of depth into the photo and also clicking the back slash key to toggle the effects on and off So I can see what edits that I've done so I can see the effect that my edits have been making on the photo. So I would usually not add vibrance or saturation here because I actually would add that a little bit later all much I'll show you. So for now, I'm gonna go into tone curve. I'm going to add a slight s curve. So this will add very little bit off contrast. If you want a more contrast the image than you might I Bigger term curve here. But I'm just out of very slight one because I don't want to be to contrast e so you can see the change that's made there. You also slightly bring up this point of the bottom here on it's just gonna light in your blacks a little bit, which actually will give it a vintage e kind of effect. So that's another thing you can do. But anyway, it's all about tweaking Andi seeing what works. So after you've done the tone curve, it's time to come down to the color section Aunt. Here is where I might add some saturation to some parts on. You can see it's broken down by reds, oranges, yellows, greens, aqua, blue on magenta and purple. You can tweak the parts of the photo that are thes colors. Basically, this condemn penned on your own personal style. I quite like to make my orange is a little bit more red and sometimes bring up the lieutenant's off the oranges. It really depends on the vibe that you're going for for this photo on also your own personal style for editing. And sometimes it's good to push things to the extreme, to see how it looks and then dragged back. Because, of course, you don't want to do some really saturated thing or de saturated thing. But it's interesting to bring it to the extreme and get an idea of what that looks like and then drag it back to more grounded levels. Like everything else, it's all about tweaking, making tweaks, seeing what works, what doesn't work, and of course, struggling on off to see changes that I've made here on. Sometimes you'd be surprised. So a lot of the time with greens, you think parts of the image of green. But actually they're coming up is yellow on the system. Season was yellow. That's why some of these sliders on actually doing anything to the image. So now we're going to split toning. So again, I like to push it way too far to see what color and working with and then drag it back. Here I am playing around with a few different colors like it's a greeny color here and you can see that I'm working with the highlights here on then. This is bringing a color into the shadows. So when you first start using these kind of tools, it can be so easy Toe do it too much. And I know from my own experience when I was first starting out photography my images very over edited. But all comes a practice just again tweaking it and always remembering the vibe that you're gonna go for what story you trying to tell finally will come to calibration. So again, try not to go overboard But you should definitely play around with this. You have the Red Channel, the Green Channel in the Blue Channel. So before you were slating the red, orange, yellow all that on, it was only editing the pixels that the system sore in that color. But for this one, it will edit any pixels that have any slight bit off the color. So, for instance, in the road primary, if a pixel has a little bit of red, then it will make a change to that pixel. But all you need to really know is this is where you can again tweak the colors and do some color grading on. It's all about experimenting. As I keep saying that, Should we just go ahead, make some changes, push it really far and then dragged back. Make sure to not go too overboard. If you're not sure, you can ask someone what they think. And if they can tell something, super editors, then it might not be the best editing. You might need to drag it back a little bit. So this all the edits I've done, I'm just gonna go up now to the color section on. Just do a few more edits, But yeah, I might take how a bit of saturation here or out of it, a saturation here in one of these channels. So the great thing about adding saturation in the color sliders is that your just add a little bit of saturation to the certain parts of images that you want to pop. Where is before? If you were doing the saturation is lighter at the top. Then you're increasing the saturation for the whole image. And that's when you can get some, like really antiwar, whole kind of vibe photos there often to edited. So there is my color grading edits in light Room, but a little bit later on, we're gonna go and do some color grading edits in photo shop. But for now, let's move on to the next section on in the next section. We're simply going to export this so that we can start getting editing in photo shop 5. Lightroom: Presets and Exporting: So he's made all the edits you want to make in light room. So now you might want to copy these edits and paste them onto another image from the same shoot. So you simply go command, see or control. See on windows, you can then select all the edits you want to copy over on. You probably want untech crop and spot removal on some other ones. Maybe untech local adjustments so that you're not coping a pasting things that shouldn't be copied and pasted. You can go ahead, go to the other image and then go command P or control. P simple is that you've pasted on the's edits to a new photo. You can also make a preset so that another time you might want to do a similar edition. You will be able to use this preset on another image on. Then you can simply tweak it as you like again. Samos Copy and paste one. You might want to untech or take a box. Maybe you want to take away sharpening. Maybe you want to do that for each individual image. Whatever. Just make sure all the boxes that you won't protect on the ones you don't want our on ticked on. There you go. Now it's in our user presets so you can click this next time you're editing an image and it will automatically put in the edits that you've done. The great thing is that then you can go and tweak these at it. So even if you're doing a completely new image on its different vibe, but you know that you are quite happy with the edit you've done before, you can paste this edit and then go ahead and change the other parts of the edit that you don't like for this new image. And now let's export so we can start working on this in photo shop, so go to file export, choose where you want to export your photo to. Of course, I usually put it in another sub folder called Light Room Edits, says how I organize it on. Then, in follow settings, I would usually export of the J Peg image sizing. I would not resized to fit, usually because I want to export them as big as possible. So the resolution ists 300 and then this is important great timesaver down in post processing you can choose Photoshopped from the drop down menu that's gonna automatically open up. Photo shopped for you with this image. So then you can dive into the edits that you want to make in photo shop. So that's how you export photo shop. So let's now look at making edits in photo shop. 6. Photoshop: Retouching: Now let's look into how we edit and fighter shop. I do like to make some edits to the skin. So this is retouching. I don't go overboard, but I do like to make some slight edits to slightly improve what we're working with. The first thing I do is I bright in the under rise. To do this, you can duplicate the layer. You can do this by right clicking and then going down to duplicate layer. What you want to do is press J. That will bring you to the tool you need. But you might actually need to go over here and hold down to get to the exact tool we need here. So hold down and bring it to the patch tool. That's what we're gonna be working with. Then you simply take part off the under eye on the part that you want to Brighton and then you bring click that part and then slide it on. This is where you're going to be brightening the under eye now. Right now it looks quite extreme, but we're gonna be tweaking. That's gonna bright in this part of the guys. I was sliding to a part of the skin where it's brighter and you're happy with this. It's obviously much too extreme right now in the blending mode section. Take it to the lighten on. Once you've done that, you can go to the Pastilles slider on bringing the Pastilles down because we're not going for perfect here. It's gotta look natural, and you want it to be natural. So take down slider slightly and see what looks natural and looks good. So I'm pretty happy with us to see the before and after. On a Mac, you go Ault, and then you click the I, and it will hide every other layer apart from layer that you clicked. So next make a new layer because now we're going to take away some of these blemishes. Now this is all relative. Sometimes I won't edit my spots at all. I'm trying to do it less and less because I do think it's important to show what people really look like on that includes blemishes. But I'm going to show you now how to take out spots because, you know, I guess a spot isn't a permanent part of someone's. I don't think it's unethical to retouch the skin in this way. Right now, we're working in a new layer, which is really important because if you make any mistakes, you can simply delete the layer. You're not making permanent changes to the original image. These are just layers on top of the image. Let's get editing these blemishes. So hold down where we have the patch tool and go into the healing brush tool. Anywhere you see a blemish, you first click bolt source. The part of the skin, which you think looks good on. That's part of the skin that you want to replicate on. Then click over the spot on. You can start editing out the blemishes on the face, so this works pretty well as a beginning. But you can also then go to the clone tool by clicking S. This will bring you to the clone tool, but you might also have to go to the tool section, and I make sure that you're on the clone stamp. So use the clone stamp to take out any of the tricky areas. For instance, even though we use the healing brush tool, it's not quite taken away. The readiness off this spot so I'm gonna use the clone stamp So the clones dump is painting over this part off the image with another part of the image. And again, you use it by clicking Ault, sourcing the part of image that you want to paint and then brushing over it with your mouths by clicking. So I like to try to do ethical editing. I'm not doing the's. Huge edits are not changing the structure of the face. I'm not airbrushing or using frequency separation. Not say that you could never use that. It depends on your own style. And it depends on who your client is, but definitely for social media posts. For instance, on when you're editing, I think like bloggers or portray, it's I really think it's better to do the retouching, but not to go overboard, not to airbrush people's faces, not to change People's too much, definitely not to make people look unrecognizable or change the structure of their face. That's why I do these small edits. I'm editing out spots on brightening the under eyes, but I'm not completely changing someone, so I'm going to fast forward through this because you have an idea of how to do it, and it does take a little bit of time, and I'm also gonna show you how you would remove something out of the background. This is a very small example. There's not too much in the background of this image, but you can see here there's some sort of black spot on this wooden beam on. This would be a simple case of using the clone stamp tool on painting over it so that it's basically becomes invisible. And now that distracting part of the image is gone. This is a very, very simple example, but you could do it more complicated things. It will just take a longer time to get it right, and then you can see the before and after I have taken off the spots I've brought in the eyes and it's looking nice. Now. I want to even out the tones of the face. So what I'm gonna do is use the eyedropper tool to select apart off the face where I know it's the right kind of color. It's the right skin tone for this person, but then I'm gonna go to Layer New Phil Layer sold it color click. OK, so Now you wanna click here on the layer mosque on you go command I or control I to invert it. So now it's invisible at the moment. But what you won't do is choose a white brush, and now you're gonna paint back on the visibility by using this white brush but working on the layer mosque, you're bringing back the edit you've made. So here you can see I'm bringing it back. Another such ridiculous in the moment. But that's because you're gonna see what I'm doing Now in a minute, I'm painting it back on. Now I realize that it's an capacity 50% and actually, I wanted to be 100% so I'm just gonna change that. And I'm going to put the blending mode to color, which is the blending mode I'm gonna use. But again, this is still too extreme. But for now I have a 100% so I can see where in painting, so yet you want to paint the full face or whatever skin is visible in your image. This is even the skin tone so that you don't have parts of the image that are a different color because of lighting or whatever. So now you don this. It's too extreme at the moment, so you're gonna go to capacity and you're gonna bring down capacity, so I'm bringing it to about 40%. Maybe it's kind of hard to see in this screen quoting on Even in real life, it's not too much of a difference, but it is making a little bit of a difference, and it's evening out. Skin tone on. You can also click into the layer mosque and then see what sports you've missed. Sometimes it's easier to do this, so you do that by oppressing old and then clicking into the layer mosque. On with this, you definitely don't want to get the whites of the eyes. The whites of the eyes should remain white on then around the lips. You also want to be sure that you're not coloring in the lips, so street that you can put your brush on black and then paint around the area that you don't want it to be, so you could do that around the eyes could do that around mouth anywhere else, where you think you might have accidentally painted it. Make sure to go over with black to raise it basically. So there you have it. There's some basic edits in photo shop, and next we're gonna go into color grading. 7. Photoshop: Colour Grading: So you've done some basic edits on retouching in photo shop. Now it's the time to do some color grading. So you've already done a little bit of color grading, but we're actually gonna go now and do it in photo shop. So you have a lot more power to edit the colors off your image in photo shop. So the first thing I do is I go to layer new adjustment layer black and white. I don't necessarily need to tweak it so much thesis. I things are probably fine for this, But the trick there is to go into a soft light because I'm not going to make this image black and white. I'm actually just using it for a bit of contrast. So we're going to soft light. I then will take down the opacity, and for this one, I don't want too much contrast, So I'm gonna take it down to maybe 20%. I'll have a look at that. You can toggle the eye on and off by clicking the I button. Maybe I'll take it down a little bit further, so I take it down to 50% capacity. So that's one of my tips. Another one is to go crater, Grady, Um, up. So you go to layer new adjustment layer. Grade em up. I would choose a two toned Grady, um, up on. Basically, you choose to different colors. This maps out the image so the dark parts are one color, and then all the way up to the whites go into the other color that you set. So I play around with this again, keeping in mind the vibe I want from the photo. Maybe I might try a bit of pinks and purples for this and see how this looks. So what we do is we go into the blending mode, and again I change it to soft. Right. You can have a play around with different blending modes, but soft light seems to work well for this one. Andi, that's looking quite nice now. So I just added some pinky tones here on. I've taken the capacity all the way down to 10%. I might actually change it, so I'm gonna put the opacity back up to 100% so I can see what colors I'm introducing here because I think it was looking a bit too pink. So I'm gonna play around with the other colors. As I said before, that's what you want to do with these kind of things. You just want to experiment with different colors on, see what works for your image. So now I've got a kind of bluey purple going into a yellow on again. I've taken down the A Pastilles, so I think I'll go for 30% capacity. So you can see here. I'm talking on and off. So this is the difference that that layer is making. So just one layer is already really introduced Some interesting colors into this on if I go down to the bottom layer the original layer that we got from a light room on I click Ault and click the I that we could see all the different changes that we've made on. One thing I'm also gonna do that could be quite useful is I'm gonna group my retouching layers. So you select the layers you want to make into a group and the new right click on you create a new group from the layers. That way you can actually just toggle the retouching layer on and off. So you can see those adjustments on their own, the difference it makes on. Later on, we will do one for the colors. So another thing I do is go to selective colors on again. As with everything, it's all about tweaking. So I'll go into the Reds. Maybe tweak those yellows. Tweet those, keep in mind the kind of look that you want to go for, so I'll tackle the eye on and off to show you the difference of that adjustment layer made . And then I'll play around with the capacity. So again, it's always playing with capacity and not taking things too far. Often, it could be too harsh, yet it's you've made. So you need to scale it back for this one I'm scaling it back to I think in the end I'll go for 50%. That looks good. It's all about tweaking, so I'm just gonna go through and change the opacity of these slightly. If I think some of these have been edited a bit too much, so now I'm gonna select all the color grading layers on. I'm going to make a new group from layers, so now you can see those are my color grade edits. So that's just changing the colors basically off the image. And that's the difference is making on Okay, I'm also going to bring a curve layer here. So we've already done one of these in light room, but I think I'm gonna do another one as well to brighten up slightly on again. I'm going, Teoh gonna play around with different blending loads. So, yeah, I think I'm gonna put this curve layer a screen, but then take their pastilles right down. So it's brightened up the image slightly. So those are all those edits on. So I'm thinking it's looking very slightly cool for my tastes. So I'm going to add a warming filter to this on again. It's just playing around with this. So I've made a little bit warmer because I did want to go for, like, a nice, vintage bright, warm image. So that's why I've added that photo filter there. So there you go. That's color grading in photo shop, you've done the basic color grade in the light room that was tolerated, a photo shop, and now the photo is almost complete. So let's go to the next class where we're going to sharpen it on, then save it 8. Photoshop: Sharpening and Saving: we've come a long way. The photo was looking much better than they did before. It's really great how all these little steps can build up. But now that we've done the color grading, we've done the retouching. It's time to sharpen the image and then simply save it. What you want to do is you want to go to the top player and you want to go command Ault, shift B and this is going to create a new layer out of all the below layers. When you've got this, what you want to do is you want to go to image adjustments black and white. Of course, you can do the shorthand for that as well, which is command ult shift and be. And so you just click. OK, then you want to go to filter other high pause and this is where we're gonna get sharpening . So it's gonna be hard to see on the screen here. But what you want to do is find a nice, happy medium where the eyes are quite sharp and you can see them in this gray box. You want the eyes to be sharp, but you don't the whole image to be super sharp. You want to bring the radius to about. I usually find it's like two or three or 45 pixels in this one. It's a bit lower is like more like to. It's just also wait a sharp so takes a bit of getting used to. You can see the eyes in that grey thing quite well, but you don't need to see every single detail when it's in that gray box. So then you hit okay on. You want to get blending mode and you want to go soft, light or overlay. And then I do usually take the opacity off this layer down a little bit, too. Maybe 95 90 85% just to take the edge off. It might be hard to see on the screen, but what I've done here is sharpened image on when you're working on your own image, you'll really be ever see the difference when you zoom in, but do make sure to zoom in when you're shopping, because you need to see it 100%. So go command one on a Mac on. You'll see the image at 100% on. You'll be up to see what difference you're making by sharpening. So there you have it. Then you want to save it. I usually saving a new folder. Photo edits on. Make sure you save a high res image. You haven't changed the size of the image, saves the J peg hit save and then have quality 12. That's a large file like quality should be maximum. There you have it. And then if you want to save for Web, you simply make smaller image. So I will go image image size on, then simply make it smaller. So maybe 2000 height and then I'm gonna save this. So now you've made it smaller and you can share it on the Web. But always do make sure to save a bigger file the biggest while you can as a j peg, just in case you have wanted print it or something like that. Really? So then you save your lawyers file for Web for instagram, for social media, whatever saving is the J peg on. There you go. So I've now watched you through the whole thing from adding the image and light room retouching and photo shop on color grade in the in Photoshopped on Let me just take you through one more time The before and after by Press Ault impressed. I you can see this was edits after light room and this is after my edits infighter shop and I'll just go through each one of these so you can see the different changes. Here is the photo after just like Rome edits, Here is a photo after I retouched it on, cleaned up the skin a little bit. Here's my color Great and edits on here is sharpening at its I don't also put on the screen now the before and after. So the first image is completely unedited, straight out of camera and then next we have the light room edits on. Then final image that is color grading and sharpening on retouching in photo shop. So there you go. That is full walk through of how I do my editing from light room photo shop to saving that , But keep watching because in the next lesson, I'm going to give a class project for you to try at home 9. Conclusion & Class Project: So there you have it. That's how you edit photograph from start to finish. Using light room and photo shop on the class project is to edit one of your own photographs using some or all of the tips and tricks I've shared over this cloth on. You can share that in the Partick section if you'd like. You can also share the before and after of your photo before it was edited on the final result. And, of course, feel free to share your images on Instagram. Feel for you toe Tag me in the caption. I'm shocked by clear P on. I might be sharing some of thes might instagram story eventually, so use the hash cash bag skill Claire as well as I'll be looking through that on. That's it. Thanks a 1,000,000 for watching by