Easy, furry tuxedo cat for everybody - wet on wet watercolor tutorial | Agnes Bodor | Skillshare

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Easy, furry tuxedo cat for everybody - wet on wet watercolor tutorial

teacher avatar Agnes Bodor

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

7 Lessons (1h 10m)
    • 1. Introduction and project description

      7:55
    • 2. Tools and materials

      10:28
    • 3. Drawing and using masking fluid

      10:35
    • 4. Starting to paint

      9:10
    • 5. Continue to paint

      10:15
    • 6. Starting to work on the details of the face

      10:49
    • 7. Making the eyes and finishing up

      10:35
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Easy, furry tuxedo cat for everybody - wet on wet watercolor tutorial 

I have several wet on wet cat watercolor tutorial but I designed this tutorial specifically for students with little or no experience with wet on wet watercolor technique. I still use most of the tricks I used in the more advanced lessons. If you absolutely new to the technique I suggest to watch the 2x10 minutes introduction to the technique on the beginning of this lesson: Blooming, cauliflower and a curled up cat - watercolor painting and introduction of the technique. I hope you are interested to paint this cat with me!

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Agnes Bodor

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Transcripts

1. Introduction and project description: Hi, my name is Agnes. What art? And I am from Hungary. I move to theatre in 2007, and since then I wave here and work in neurobiology. But to keep balance, I always adored to make art, especially painting. But also I made during origami photography or whatever occupying my mind. My favorite technique was always watercolor and ink. I love to paint landscapes and portraits. But nowadays, I mostly pay gaps. When I paint cats. I wanna catch their SIM, their beauty, their movement, not just copying of course the all what early stage patients. Also, when I use water or ink, I run, I use the potential of these materials that their own UT, I don't want to use the Euler amphora. I want to use a watercolor. I think soon be used very slowly, very three. Let us do is diffuse and even on paper. Because to make a good case it watercolor is very, very important to understand the material and to be able to control. Because otherwise it won't work. And on my watercolor tutorial, this is exactly lifespan. To make you understand this very complicated math area, the water color, and be able to use its beauty. Be it Master. Hi everyone. Thanks so much for choosing my cat watercolor tutorial for today. Maybe if you follow me or do you look up my things, you will see I have many, many CAT tutorials, but most of them are very odd whilst. But this one, you can see right now on the image. This tuxedo cat is designed specifically for students who are interested in wet on wet watercolor technique, but they don't have huge experience wet. So I, I used everywhere a very simplified way of painting of this cat. And I also used all the tricks and technique which I usually use in the advanced cat tutorials. And this is why, if you're not familiar with words like wash back, blooming, cauliflower, and things like that. Please check out this tutorial, which you can see right now on the image blooming California and the curling up cat. That cat painting is a little bit harder. But in the beginning I have two introductory section introducing the technique, which is the second, third section. And I sat just to really look those up because there I detailed many things about the technique. For example, this is just a tiny part from that tutorial. I show how to paint on wet own bat to generate furry spreading ad, which we represent in this case cat fur. And this is why actually the black and white cat is perfect because where the black and a white cat fur meet, you see this effect. And this technique is perfect though to express this this cat fur. So the fluffy, furry cat. And so that is one way to do that, to paint on a vat paper with dance water color. And there is a second technique which called wash back. And this one is very highly timed technique where you really need to do it exactly on the right moment. When your paint is semi dry. So not dry but not shiny wet because otherwise it's not working and that's usually people call wash back. And the result that you get usually called blooms or caliph lowers. You can see on the video and saw that what we will use in this cat painting today. And I also use a lot on other cat tutorials. But the detailed explanation is exist only this old tutorial which I just sought. So I really sad just to look that up. Also, it is very, very important to make this technique work to use real artist quality watercolor paper, unfortunately. And also the paper size is pretty crucial, so you cannot work smart. And minimum size, as I mentioned in the next section, is, I suggest is 14 by 20 inches and real watercolor paper. So after that, we paint the furry body. I will make a detailed introduction on how to paint the eyes and order facial details like the whiskers and a nose and a mouth. We're in a very simplified way, but still it will look very realistic. In now, I'm showing the example for those. If you want prints, clean it from here, or I already uploaded so you can download from there. But it's good to see it in a large view when you paint, especially when you do the face, it's good to zoom in a little bit and look close by in, I hope you found this project to paint the scat, enough interesting to do it with me. So I hope to see you in the next section, which is the introduction of the tools and the materials. Thank you. 2. Tools and materials: So now I will introduce the tools and the materials. I always say but saying it again with watercolor, the most important material is the paper. So don't save on the paper. And it's really important to have a good paper. And I will show few, which I'm pretty happy with. What I used specifically today is the long-term prestige water color block, 14 by 20 inches cold press. It's not an easy paper to find, although it is absolute my favorite. If you can get it, I really suggest that actually you will see I painted this k2 times. And another paper I used was the arch and arches. Exactly the same. It was a watercolor block, cold press, 14 by 20 entails. So it's the same as you can see on the picture, but the picture you see the 16 by 20 and I use the 14 by 20 inches. So but other than that, it's the same and it's very available probably everywhere, much more than the long-term prestige. So that's the best alternative of the long-term prestige. Although I prefer little bit o, the long-term prestige over the arch. But I love bought, bought at excellent paper. So whatever you can get, You will be fine. I also suggest another paper could Kilimanjaro. It's a good art. I'm not a for this more pricey papers. That's, that's a good possibility. Probably from that, I would choose the ticker one, the 300 Albi, the other towards the 160. It's a good paper. So if it's somehow cheaper or you have it, That's what I said, just And other than that, probably any artist quality cotton watercolor paper can be useful today. But these are the most well-known and probably easy to get on more available. And without that, it would be really had to get any similar result without real watercolor paper. So next what you need several water bowl where you can really see how, how much how dirty the water. So I usually use white or transparent big ones. I I did this painting, I think I had four next to me. And two is a minimum, but four is better and the more the better because with the black paint, it gets very, very fast. Regarding paint. I use Daniel Smith's or Haram. You can see here bought brand on the photo. I love bought. Absolutely no preference one over the other. Axon paints bought at. But any artist quality or even student grade paint, watercolor paint would work. So if you need to save money somewhere, I would buy student grade paint. But I wouldn't say on a paper. But if you can afford especially the black, black by any, any, from any artist, quality brand the lamp black. That's what I suggest. Because we, using very tiny amount of color is any kind of paint would be good. But for the black, if you can afford just buy a tube of lamp black from either Daniel Smith or harassed or any artist quality graded lamp black. So usually you can see the little dish, the green one. I dilute up the paint before I start to paint. So I push out probably an inch length from the cube and ideally you did up to heavy cream consistency. That's means it's leaking. It's leaky, but not watery at all. So it's like heavy cream. That's a really good description. So try to get that consistency, adding a little water and with your brush and dilute it up. That's important because it's what is coming out from a tube is way to dance. What else we need is just any water color you have at home. Six color would be fine. You can see on the image it's one of my watercolor set. It's Sennelier. But any six galore watercolor set you have, it's enough good for the eye and a little nose. So you will just need a very basic few colors for that. If you don't have water colored, sat my suggestion. First, by these 238 or whatever color Danielle Smith dot card. This has all the colors sample of Daniel Smith paint, which is excellent band and this dot cards that is probably 25 bucks or so. You can buy it on Amazon or bleak, and you have all the colors and that's a lot of paint. Actually. You campaigned few painting from the paints here, but you will learn which color you like and you can order than those tubes you want. And And this dot card is detailing all the properties of the water column and how transparent, how, how light resistant, how granulating, and you can test all and you can understand a lot about the paint if you buy this.com. And you will have so many colors. And you can do leave a lot of things with this paint and it's only 25 bucks. And when you buy the tubes, It's the tube is about 15 to $30, probably something like that. A bigger tube of watercolor paints. So it's good to know before you invest in one column or 25, $30, or 15 event. It's just good to know what you invest in. So you can test it out and you can see if you like it or not. So what you need, you will need a big flat brush. You can see to move on, on on the left, but you need only one. It doesn't need to be high-quality. Anything we just using wetting the paper and you need a watercolor pencil. I use this very dark one today. If you buy it because you don't have anything, I would choose a lighter gray because it's just easier to remove or some middle gray. This is a pretty dark gray I use today just for visibility. You are better probably with a lighter color and with brushes. I'm using Princeton brushes, either Princeton Aqua Elliot or Princeton Neptune. I love bought. And the, another amusing is the silver black velvet. Any brand, any watercolor brush probably will be enough good. And today I used around around 2016 to 20, anything is good around and I use the thinner one. Probably it was size six. Anything for 68 crew bubbly God. For today. So if you have to, I think you are good. So other than that, you will need masking fluid. I think any brand will be fine. I don't have experience with other brands. This is what I use and you will need a steak or something to apply it. I'm using that reads stick next to it. And you can see a chopstick videotape that work for me very well. I just use a blade to make a tip for a toxic if you don't have anything else and just try it on another paper, how it's working. And the artists, Peter Pan from fiber cast size smart, which I was a lot thing I didn't mention is the vibe. So you will need probably kitchen paper towel or if you want to buy a fancy one, I really like this Kim wipes, but you will be good with kitten paper towels. Don't use toilet paper or tissue paper because they will stick to your wet paper and they melt. So other than that, I used a plane spray bottle with water. And I really hope I didn't skip anything. And I think we are ready to work. So see you in the next section. 3. Drawing and using masking fluid: So now we are ready to work. First reveal, need the paper and the watercolor pencil in. Before I start to show how I draw, I want to show you the final drawing. Very, it's much lighter, but I used Photoshop to make it darker. And I did this because now I saw you how I would simplify this drawing. So you can see actually you can make it with 5 very simple form. So the had is kind of acts shape and the neck is a triangle. And the 2 a2 and a body is almost like a half square. So it's not a complicated drawing. You can use this outline to print out if you don't trust your drawing skill, but I think it's easy and it's good if you do it for yourself. But I provide this if you need it. So what I'm doing is I'm looking for cat photo on my monitor, really lard. And I using my watercolor pencil, actually this is darker what I would use normally. And I do this just for better visibility for you. But an AI pushing him Dan, to have kind of stronger mark. But what I'm doing is looking at ratios like for example, the width of a hat, how many times feet on the body and this is high. Decide whether I like how big is the head, for example, when I'm just drawing right now. And I also Labor First, like how far I wonder cat from the edge of the paper. And I work within that range. And so this is how I do it. But it's really a simple cat. Only contains few forms, few very simple forms, no difficult lags or movement or, or, or pause or details. So it's really good and a face is very frontal, almost symmetric. So it's pretty easy. So I'm pretty sure you can do it. So you can see I doing the same thing with the details in a head. I tried to measure how many times the I fit on the half half half had with and things like that. And this is via ending up ended up with more lines because I'm correcting myself a little bit when I need to. And I usually just push a little bit. First. I just push my pencil less than on the end. I push a little bit stronger so I know what is my final line. And this is a good way to do it. This is water colored pencil. So when we read a paper, lot of the thin, very light line will disappear. So it's good if you do it this way, just me, it was very light marks and then on the end use stronger ones and the stronger one we'll survive the wetting the paper. So that will help you during the painting. I draw a little bit the pattern of the cat, the black and white pattern. That's absolutely not necessary honestly. But if it's if you think it's helped, you, you can do it. I did it just for the sake of this tutorial. But if you have the eyes and ears, you will know where is the pattern. And so, so just do it if you, if you want to be sure. And I do the same thing in a body. So I add a little bit the pattern again, and just for not to vary when you paint because maybe the painting is new and it's new to paint wet on wet, it will spread, it will flow. So maybe it's just make you calmer if you don't need to vary on that where to put exactly the pain because the order they have the marks. And I really suggest using the size the, I suggested the 14 by 20 inches. This technique, because it's spreading and it's flowing. It's really had to work small. And I promise it's much easier, no matter what you do with watercolor, it's easier to work large. So especially if you add a new technique, especially the veteran that working large will help you a lot. Also this technique as it spread and staff, it needs space because otherwise it just can't spread. And you will see that how it's spread on the good watercolor paper, It's exactly look like at for the right size. So I'm kind of ready. Bit, the bit the outline in. You can see I'm preparing my masking fluid to draw the details where I don't want the paint flow. That's also design the way to help you. So I will outline the eyes and the ears because the eyes is really light. I don't want the black paint flowing there. And ears is because you don't want the ear filtered out on the wet paper, so the line will contain the black paint within the triangle. And other than that, I'm using for the whiskers and the, I guess it's the eyebrows of the cat. And that's it. So I will draw the whiskers, the eyebrow, and the ears. The masking fluid, very, very important with the masking fluid to wait until it's dry. If you think you did something wrong and you want to change, wait until it's dry or use your fingers to remove, but only when it's dry. Otherwise you just, you will just push the masking fluid into your pricey good paper and you destroy it. But if you wait until it's dry, I promise it will come off super easy. It can take, let's say 15 minutes, but it's worth it. And then you can redraw if you are unhappy with something gone wrong with the masking fluid. Also, maybe you can see when I'm using the masking fluid, I always try it first. On my you see there is a paper below my watercolor paper and that's, I'm suggest to you to put a piece of paper next to you and just try your masking fluid, how tickets the line. And usually first time after you dip it in, it will put a droplets Dan and then it escapes. The droplets will go on your extra paper. And then you can try how is the line. So you can see a little bit unfortunate, It's nothing new, but I always testing it out if it's enough tin, if it's dripping. And this way, I don't have accident on watercolor paper or just very rarely. I also added those little white light in the eyes you can see it's not in the middle. It's more like on the upper side, on the right side. Both. I I will remove that when I paint because I can just keep it. But if you are new to the technique, I suggest to when we remove the masking fluid, after we paint, just keep doors, those little dots in the eye or redraw it before we doing the eye, I will warn you when we doing it, I just let you know. I forgot about and I removed it but I didn't meet him when I paint it because I was able to skip the right anyway. But maybe it's just easier to leave that there for that really bright light. And you can see now I'm correcting. I was unhappy with the eye that line and I waited. It was dry. I tested, I tagged and now I just remove it and I redo it so you can do that totally. It was a very thin line, so it's dried very fast, but ticker line me 10, 15 minutes to dry. Usually. It's depend on how thick is the 0 line. And after I do the masking fluid, I will have a longer wait time until the masking fluid everywhere completely dry. And that's what I suggest to you. And I am done with the masking fluid. So see you probably in 15 minutes in the next section when you're masking fluid dry, only not before. So during that time via you waiting, you have to dilute up your black paint, which is probably if it's a tube paint, It's a tube lamp black paint. The method is take an inch out from a tube like inch long as it coming out from a tube. And add slowly water to it and mix it with your brush until you reach a heavy cream consistency. That's actually will take enough time to do to make your masking fluid dry. It's really hard to paint with husbands because it's tiny, so it's not impossible. But if you can the lamp black just by one tube off lamp black paint, it will make your life so much easier, especially if you are doing CAT tutorials. All, we'll need this paint. So see you soon. 4. Starting to paint: So I am back. My masking fluid is completely dry and I'm using a spray bottle just with plain water and spray my paper and then my MATHLAB brush, which is the big flat brush, and I'm wetting the paper equally. You see it immediately lightening up the drawing, but it's still stay with him. When you do that. You tried to work fast and then just wait a little bit. Really, just a little bit. Allow the water to sink into the paper and not just flowing on the surface. So it's take a minute or so, not more than that. And when you think it's ready, you will need more simple round brush. I just showed one and make sure it sticker one. So if you have around, it's I think mine was size 16. If you have the quill which has the metal around, it's about size six or eight. From the round you can use 16 to 20, probably anything. As I said, I usually use Princeton brushes. I like the silver wherever two. So but any water color brush you have will work. Just make sure it's bigger. And you see I'm waiting a little bit that minute or so. And I ordered they have the heavy cream consistency water color paint next to me. So if you don't have that, then it's better if you know that your paper just dilute first and new seeds very dark, It's dance, but it's less dense than what is in a tube. It shouldn't be able to leak like a heavy cream. And with a very fast and simple way, put down all the black marks the scat have. So you can go to the same order as I do. When a paper is solved like death. The paint, within minutes, it needs some time, but within minutes it starts to spread out. And it will generate a beautiful furry edge. And that effect is really, it really will look like as a furry body of the cat without you painting any liftoff. So you can already see in several places, for example, on a tear and stuff like that, It's already falling out beautifully. So you see, I'm using very dense paint, but it's pretty limited, as I said. If it's do daily routine, the all-black we'll be gray and when it's drying it will be even more gray because the black watercolor tend to dry lighter. So I suggest really used good, good dance, lamp, black, artist quality paint. So you can see I'm outlining the black and then filling it up. And it's immediately, you can see many places it just generating this really cool effect. First, just work on the body because the body, you can have this very affected. It's great. But you don't want this Fourier affect too much on a head because the head is usually much sharper. The ferry shorter and more flat so that we will touch on when we're done with the body. When the paper is a little bit drier. And we don't need to worry about that. The head further out too much. It's still we're probably further out too much a little bit, but you always you always need to have around the paper towels. So if there is an issue, you need to use your clean water, clean brush, and loosen up a little bit the paint and wipe it off either with your dry clean brush or with your paper towel. I will do it several times, so you will say it. So if you think you need to back, it just wipes. So so you see I'm wiping off and I'm pushing the paint always from the white area to the direction to the black area and add the opposite way because then I will just bring more black into the white area. So always from the right to the direction of the black. And if you did the masking fluid right, you don't need to worry about the eye, for example, it won't go into the eye region. The masking fluid field block it out. So it's great. The ear, it's also mostly will block it out so it won't spread out like a fluffy year. So that's good also. If it goes out, don't worry, just use your vibe and remove wherever you don't want it. In some because the paper maybe a little bit get just slightly bit. It got wavy. Some area we refer out more because it's a little bit more red there because of the waviness and thing like that. But on the end it will come out just great. If you need to wipe, just to wipe. You will see when I'm seeing something too much, going too much, running somewhere, some black paint outside where I want. I'm just using the wipe. The trick with the vibe is it gets dirty fast. And if you're not careful, you will wipe with the dirty region of the pipe. So make sure when you vibe, take a look if it's clean. So don't use the revive because you will make mass. So it's very important, always wipe it clean surface. If, if the paint not coming too much, you can use just a clean brush, clean water and loosen a little bit. And then viper again. It will help. As soon as it's the pain start to settle and dry. It will be harder and harder to remove. So it's better to remove if you want to remove something, tried to remove it as fast as possible after it happens. So you can see in the ER, I believe a little zone and I just add water there because I want that lighter color inside the year. So you see I went outside a little bit things little bit spreading outside. I'm just wiping. And another thing what I'm doing right now is I'm drying up a little bit the paper on the edge of the white area of the NAC. And I'm doing that because I will use what I call the dirty brush color. So I've wiped my brush but not super clean dust. It still will have some gray colon and that what I will use to make shadows on the white area of the and also I forgot to mention around the eye and District region, I switched brush. So you can see I have a thinner brush now. So I started with the big brush to putting down those big black areas everywhere. But then I when I need details more fine black areas, I'm using my size four brush. But I have around size six. Maybe it's a sex. I don't know. So that's my dirty brush. A little bit maybe a little bit lighter is better. So don't worry if it's too dark, you just wipe it off or you add more water and they IoT lab. But so I'm using my dirty brush to adding a little shading. So now I have to cut my video. So I'm not stopping the painting process. I just need to cut the video and I continue right away in the next section. 5. Continue to paint: So I am back and as I said, I didn't stop painting. I just had to cut the video to two part. So this is where I finished on the last video. So when I'm doing is with the bad wet brush, I make some furthering out between the tail and the body just to imitate that tail under the body. So just how the black and a white mixing up on that region. And I use just wet brush, clean wet brush and with water I pulled out the little bit, the black mane to the direction of divide. And now what I'm doing, I'm adding just water to those byte zone does to white line in the middle too, to keep the paint flowing away from the white. So because I want to keep that that three lines divide the black and white again in a minute. Because I think it's good. And if it goes too much close to each other, you can just add water to divide area. Just very Tim brush, just a thin line of water when the paint is almost dry, but not dry yet. So it's centered but not shiny. And this is what it's called the wash back technique. And this is what is described on that other tutorial I suggested titled blooming cauliflower and a curling up care. So if you unfamiliar check it up and you see I'm using clean paper and I'm just making the edges where it's flowing too much. I make sure that it's it's removed in time and also there around the tail and it's flowing too much somewhere. I just putting a clean paper white around my finger and that all ohmic me to be precise and removed the things which is flowing too much. And I'm again adding clean water to the edge of the paint because that will have the paint to further out more. You can see already very beautiful further effect in some places, for example, around the neck, the tail, the bottom of the tail, the back is really good too. I like how the three little thin line in the middle come out. I liked the top of the head. So the paint is really doing what it's supposed to, though it's fading out on a wet paper. And this is the beauty of the wet on wet technique. So my dirty brush, I continue a little bit to to shade those white areas to give some form there for the face. And you know, it's it's a little bit shaded below that had because they had covered for the light. So I'm adding water also in the middle of the ear in the light area. And that's also washing off, keep the paint out. And also I loosening up the paint, the black paint inside a year. So I'm adding water to other places to where I want more further effect. It is time because the paint is Saturn. You can see my dirty brush around the neck just generating those line where the neck is just a very light gray. And I'm again moving too much further out or off. But make sure you're not moving the first of because you want to keep the 30 structure just only if it's round too far. And I'm removing that black thing also around too far on the side of the ER. And the edge of the ear is black. So I tried to keep the add black and the middle lighter. So just using the bras. I keep the deep black of the ear. And eye making. There was eyeliner. Biscuit has a beautiful like black eye line everywhere, all around so that you just use your thinner brush and you draw that when your paper, when the paint is not running anymore. So the paper is kind of on a dry or not. It's not dry, but it's much drier than in a beginning, so it's not running anymore. So because of the masking fluid, you don't need to worry about the black going inside the eye. So just make sure that the outside part these good. Although if it's around a little bit over, that's okay because there are referred to there. So it's very so after that I use just again a dirty brush and add a triangle for the nodes and three lines for the mouth. And if it's too dark, just wipe it off a little bit just to keep it very light because you still can make it darker. I'm adding little black paint on a face where I found uneven or two grayish. So just make the black dancer to have a nice dark black there. The other thing I didn't mention, you can see I added two dot of masking fluid in the middle of the eye because you will not keep out. When you paint the eye on the end, you want to keep out for, from a little tiny area. You want to keep out the paint because you want that really light little dot in the i, which is the shininess of the eye. But I removed that when I remove the masking fluid. But if you want to keep it, don't forget to keep it or if you remove it accidentally. Put it back before we start to paint the eye and wait until it's dry. It just help you. But you will see I can do it without in, I don't think it's hard, but it's just safer if you leave the masking fluid in the middle of the eye. So I'm still using dirty brush to putting shadow around the face and wherever you need. So what I'm looking is where the white fur is darker because it's in it's in the shade. And that's usually below the head, the neck, and the lower regions of the cat because the light usually coming from above. So I'd just be the dirty brush. I'll just add a little shading on a white region 2. And I'm still adding little water here and there to keep the paint furring. And then I'm adding this water. That's what called wash back technique. And the pattern you see generated by that water is called blooming or cauliflower. And this is what I'm doing when I'm just adding clean water to the edge of the black paint. This is only possible when the paint is centered, but not the dry. When it's dry, it won't happen. When it's too wet. It will just make a mass because it will just dilute the paint. So you need to do it on a right time. When the paint is started to dry, it's not shiny anymore. But if you would touch the paint, it will stay in your finger and that's the right time to doing this technique. And doing a little bit on a head to the top of the head just to add shade in what I'm doing right now. I'm removing with my wet brush some paint just to show that structure. How the the thigh, the back, back leg tai curving there. So if you look the photo, It's obvious that there is the Blackfoot is lighter there and I removing a little bed that blackness just with a wet brush. And I always clean the brush and I always do it a little bit more than I'm not doing it paper, right? I'm just making it lighter. And that wetness will push the paint a little bit. So you see I have to remove a little bit if it's too much or too much spreading. So I use the paper to dry, and I also use now the paper to lighten up again a little bit just where the food is more shiny. The black fur. So I did that. And I think we're basically done with these basic painting. And we need to wait until our painting is dry. When you touch it, it's not stain your hand at all because that's when it's safe to remove the masking fluid so it's almost dry. So see you at the next section only when your paint is dry. And then we remove the masking fluid and continue. 6. Starting to work on the details of the face: So I am back, my painting is dry. You see I touch, there is no weights then my hand nowhere. It's very, very important because otherwise you will, when you remove the masking fluid, do tests, make mass and then you check your finger. And when it's no mark on your finger, then you save to go. You see no mark on my fingers, so I'm doing it. So you see I ordered the remove that dot in the middle of the eye, that masking fluid dot which exist on board I. But if you want to keep it, it's easier on the end or if you accidentally removed like I am doing right now, just put it back with until it's dry and then continue. It will help you to keep that bright sign in the eye, which is which will be bite on the end on a painting, but it will represent that shininess of the eyeball. So either keep it or redo it if you want. But you will see I will do it without masking fluid and it's possible. So whatever you prefer, if there is a liter Black going on your hand because the masking fluid pick up some pain, remove it. Removed. Just stick your finger into your water and thus make sure your finger is clean. But if paint coming off, stop and wait until it's dry. So it's almost completely dry. And I'm grabbing off all the masking fluid, make sure my hand is not making mass, so I always check my hand. And I suggest this to you too. If you see any mark, remove it and the paint mark from your finger and then continue. So just let you know I have to painting going on parallel the same cat. And it's because when I painted the eye of the scat, I didn't recognize that my phone ran out memory. So I read it in. I will show the I on another on another painting how I did the I. But I will show both side-by-side on the end and you will see it's very, very similar, so I will work on board and that's when my recording stops. So I'm continuing on on to another one. So you see here is the another one. So I removing the masking fluid and I'm showing this close up because I will work on the eye. So so I want you to see it while I'm doing. So as you can already see the eyes a little bit bigger than a real than the eye of the photo. And actually on the end I end up with a little bit bigger I then on the photo. But I think that's okay. But I still have to make this smaller. And I also have to make doors or those lines a little bit more gray. And when it's not correct, I wanna make it disappear. The line of the masking fluid, for example, they're on the year. So you will see what I'm doing. I'm redoing those, but I don't like I just redoing it. If you like yours, don't worry, you don't need to do that. Just paint below the white line. For me the second cat, not the first time, but the second one. Year was a little bit small, so I want it bigger. And I also want the the white line is a little bit, it was just too sharp and same with the eyebrow. I want a little bit just a little bit covered by, by color. It just do bright white, like unnaturally bright white. Also the edge of the ear is black. So you can see I'm a little bit just overlaying with a dirty brush the eyebrows and or those two bright lines. So now I start to like, correct the details on a face like the North for example. And I'm using my thin brush and very black paint to make the eye the final shape of the eye. It's good to zoom in now on a photo and look closer. And if you are unsure in your hand, use just the normal pencil or your watercolor pencil and make, draw the line first. And when you like that line, then use the paint and your team brush and just paint it over. It's maybe require a little bit experienced to have a steady hand and do it. Right. And it can be a little bit dangerous if you use right away the paint. So much harder to remove. If you're unsure, really just use a pencil, don't worry, and make it first with a pencil and draw it with the paint when you like it, It's easier to remove that and correct that. Then a paint. If I would do a very wrong line, I would be in trouble here. It would be really hard to remove without making the eye the right area, like the array or gray. I am wiping the nozzle area a little bit lighter. The nodes won't be grace, so we will add color eventually. So this is just showing where it's at. So. These grays just the label. And I'm making the black more even and darker around I because, you know, I just I just redid the shape of the eye so I don't want those lines separates where the old black and a new black around the eye is. So I want the whole thing just nice and dark. Black. And mix a little furry edge on that triangle shape on a noise. And with my thin brush, I draw the nose, which is a little bit look like a drop, a drop shape. And I make a tiny line on the edge and in the middle of the nose. And if it's too dark, just wipe it, clean, wipe and leave it as it is because we will add color on it. And now I'm just using a very light pinkish color and I wipe it off. I don't want dark, just very light for the noise. Make sure when you wipe your vibe is clean. So now I am just using my Faber-Castell Pitt bands. Size small, just do labor where the pupil we'll be of the eye. It's don't need to be the final. I just put a little mark just to know. And I'm using now for me adding the whisker just on the white area. So you see, I I tried to just make the continuation of divide one of the white whiskers on the right area where it's not visible. And I let the black line continued with the with the right must below the masking fluid Mark. And I'm also using for some precise drawing a little bit around the eye. So this ink pen is really good for these tiny lines, line work. I really like it and it's ink, so it's very similar to the to the lamp black paint. So I'm still correcting a little bit around to gray areas and making the lines disappearing. So making blackness around even. And this will be the end of this video. And I'm continuing ride away on the next video with the eye. If you need the light in the eye with white, put the masking fluid than them now, where those white dots you can see in the eye, which is the shininess of the eye, and lead the masking fluid dry and then start the painting the eye in the next section. But you can do it without masking fluid if you want. 7. Making the eyes and finishing up: So now I start to paint the eye and you see I don't have a masking fluid, but if you want to add the masking fluid where divide is in the eye, you need to do it now and wait until it's dry. Or if you trust your hand like I am doing just use pain. They're accidentally what I am doing right now. Like you just wipe it off there. Where where the I need to have the right area and just make sure you keep it light when you add the next layers. It's easier with the masking fluid, whichever you prefer. If you want. If, if you really beginner, it's good to have the masking fluid that it will help you. And now I'm adding the brown in the corners. You can see. And I'm going to the E in and adding the little orange, orangey brown into the ear. It just easier to paint the eye when it's dry everywhere around so the black won't flow into the eye. And the brown I just add. So I'm working on different areas always to wait until things dry. And you can see I'm adding a little bit more brownish, yellow. So it's not as greenish, It's a little bit more warm yellow. You can add a tiny bit of orange into your yellow. That's what I'm doing and and try to stay in line. It's okay if you'd go out a little bit the black, if you can't overpaying the black, really, the only bad part if you go out, it means that you can loosen up the black paint and a black paint can flow into the eye area. So you can see I'm using transparent orange with yellow. And I'm keeping and making sure that I'm not over painting the white of the eye. And I'm also adding little green. So many colors. Actually I zoomed in to the photo and I'm looking really close up. It's not as sharp on red, but you still against C varies. Very various darker in there. So you will see the eyeball has dark and light area and it also has a button. So now again, I'm waiting a little bit for drying, so I'm touching other regions. Like the mouth and the lighter, pinkish. And it gets doping. We probably retouch later to tone that Pink Dan a little bit. So it's easier to add that pattern and those light and dark area within the eye, if you let it, let the paint always a little bit seat and then you do the ear or the mouth and there, and then go back to the eye. So you see I have those tiny little white regions. I kept white. If you still, if you just recognize, it's really hard to keep this way. You still can dry with a paper towel now. Wait until it's dry entirely, maybe 20 minutes at the masking fluid and then continue if you vary. But as you can see, I can keep it white, so it's okay. Another technique you can do if you can't keep it right, is two. On the end, just use white goulash or tempera, or even our career and just add a tiny dot with your team brush. You can do that too. It just make the eye really pop if you haven't those little white light. So you see this, I hope you recognize I still adding all kinds of colloids, yellow, orange, and green, and even a little below. So, but it became green eventually Whitman, It's mix with the yellow, so let's say green. So when you feel, you can little bit modify and taken the pupil with your sharpie pen. If you don't have that kind of plan, I think any pen, black pen would work. Also. You can do it with watercolor paint, but only do it when it's dry because otherwise it will run into the yellow. So the black, for the black, you really need to drive the so you can paint the eye completely without the pupil. And then on the end when it's dry and the pupil. This pan, the, the one I suggested to use, which is the Fabric Cluster, Pitt Artist Band. It's not, it's really good because it's not water soluble. So it won't spread on a wet, although it's don't like to work on a wet paper honestly, it's eventually stop really releasing paint. But it's not spread or source. So it's good to also work better on dry paper. So if you feel that your eye not developing right, leave a little time to paint to get It's a little bit drier or driver and then continue. It just easier to keep those colors and variations in tact and not flowing together and those gaps. One color math. So now I am back to the other painting, which fair to record when I painted the eye. So it's about in the same situation as the other cat head. So now I'm continuing on this one. It's a little bit less developed, so I have to work on it. So now I'm adding the orange into the ER. So this base color, I did without recording in the eye, these bales, lighter, yellow, green. And I didn't recognize my phone is not recording anymore. So this is why I add this other head to the tutorial, but I'm continuing this one too a little bit more. I want a little bit darker. And I'm also adding lines you can see with my pan. And I'm adding a little more color to this. I also, but this is kind of ready and ink. I hope it's an easy way to learn the cat painting. It's not an easy technique, the wet on wet. But I think this tutorial is absolutely possible for, for beginners or people with very little experience. You need a good paper that's very important. Honestly, it won't work. And you need to paint this size because it won't work if you try to make it small. And this is the final result. As you can see, I hope you enjoyed it. Please comment or ask questions below and pause theories, art I really would like to see. Also let me know if you have trouble and I help. Thanks so much to doing my tutorial and I hope to see you on the next one. Bye.